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Ola posted:Updates on the paid model for Tesla superchargers.
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Nov 7, 2016 19:26
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El Grillo posted:Roughly how many miles might 400kWhrs be equivalent to? 1,000 per the post.
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Nov 7, 2016 19:28
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Subjunctive posted:I had to sell a year-old P85D because I was moving, and took a 30K bath. 
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Nov 7, 2016 19:30
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Subjunctive posted:1,000 per the post.
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Nov 7, 2016 19:31
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Subjunctive posted:I had to sell a year-old P85D because I was moving, and took a 30K bath. While some of that is truly attributable to its EV nature, I've gotta believe that part of that is also that luxury vehicles lose a ton of value.
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Nov 7, 2016 19:34
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Thwomp posted:While some of that is truly attributable to its EV nature, I've gotta believe that part of that is also that luxury vehicles lose a ton of value. I don't think the EV nature mattered at all, especially since I was selling it to another Tesla owner and it was just over a year old with < 9K miles on it. It was just the luxury depreciation. Yeah, I was pissed off. Not so much that I didn't buy a new one in my new country, though, sigh.
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Nov 7, 2016 19:42
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blugu64 posted:Not sure it answers your question but I'm still looking at used volts, and I've never seen one that didn't include the charger. Not the 110v portable charge cord, I'm of course including that. I'm talking about a 220v wall charger.
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Nov 7, 2016 19:56
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Subjunctive posted:Yeah, I was pissed off. Not so much that I didn't buy a new one in my new country, though, sigh. May I ask what you do for a living? These posts just beg for that question. 
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Nov 7, 2016 20:26
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Michael Scott posted:May I ask what you do for a living? These posts just beg for that question. I used to be a director at a top-5 internet company (when the cars were purchased). Now I'm a partner in a VC firm. E: I guess I was technically between jobs when I bought the replacement, but it was the income from the first job that I was spending.
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Nov 7, 2016 20:31
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How terrible an idea is it to buy a used i3? I can only find 2014s...which, being the first year model of an entirely new car, are probably rife with issues. Consumer Reports says to avoid, but they also said the Model S was the greatest car ever until it wasn't. It's hard to not look at them, though, when I'm seeing cars with ~10k miles going for ~$22k. Obviously leasing a 2017 is the safest option, but how much worse can the value of these cars get? You think if I sell it in 3-5 years, the value will poo poo the bed, hard, again? Losing 60% value in 2 years is pretty hard depreciation, does it get much worse than that? Consumer Reports claims that the 2014s are particularly unreliable. What is there to go wrong with these cars that can't be fixed with software? As in, why would the 2014s be any less reliable than the later models, which afaik are nearly identical? forbidden dialectics fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Nov 7, 2016 |
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Nov 7, 2016 20:32
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MrYenko posted:Not the 110v portable charge cord, I'm of course including that. I'm talking about a 220v wall charger. Do you really need one of those expensive boxes? Isn't it enough with a plug that supports 220v and whatever amps (16? 20?) plus the appropriate adapter? This pic shows some included and optional adapters from Tesla.
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Nov 7, 2016 20:38
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Heaps of Sheeps posted:How terrible an idea is it to buy a used i3? I can only find 2014s...which, being the first year model of an entirely new car, are probably rife with issues. Consumer Reports says to avoid, but they also said the Model S was the greatest car ever until it wasn't. It's hard to not look at them, though, when I'm seeing cars with ~10k miles going for ~$22k. I guess it depends on how hung up you are on refreshing your car ownership situation. If the value continues to tank into worthlessness in 3-5 years, you might as well stump up for a reconditioned battery pack if it needs it and continue driving it into the ground. I'd love an i3, but can't really justify anything new or even newish at the moment.
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Nov 7, 2016 20:38
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Heaps of Sheeps posted:As in, why would the 2014s be any less reliable than the later models, which afaik are nearly identical? They've recently released a bigger battery and we're expecting yet another boost next year, so the earliest versions have probably taken a big depreciation hit because of that. If you are OK with the range, that works in your favor.
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Nov 7, 2016 20:41
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Subjunctive posted:I used to be a director at a top-5 internet company (when the cars were purchased). Now I'm a partner in a VC firm. Let me know if your VC ever wants a low-level somebody who knows DevOps and wants to learn and work hard!
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Nov 7, 2016 20:40
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Ola posted:Do you really need one of those expensive boxes? Isn't it enough with a plug that supports 220v and whatever amps (16? 20?) plus the appropriate adapter? Yeah, you can use a dryer outlet and adapter, that's what I did with my S in my apartment in California. I would be surprised if a dealer would even accept a charger from you, since they wouldn't know how to validate that it even worked at all, or want to be in the business of reselling it.
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Nov 7, 2016 20:41
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MrYenko posted:Not the 110v portable charge cord, I'm of course including that. I'm talking about a 220v wall charger. Oh, in that case, I've seen like one that had an 3rd party EVSE in addition to the standard charger, at a little fly by night dealer. I wouldn't think dealers would want to mess with calls about third party gadgets that may/may not work, but ymmv.
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Nov 7, 2016 20:44
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Heaps of Sheeps posted:How terrible an idea is it to buy a used i3? I can only find 2014s...which, being the first year model of an entirely new car, are probably rife with issues. Consumer Reports says to avoid, but they also said the Model S was the greatest car ever until it wasn't. It's hard to not look at them, though, when I'm seeing cars with ~10k miles going for ~$22k. CR's used car data comes from owners so it's usually pretty trustworthy; here's some more data and very little of it is just a "software fix": http://www.truedelta.com/BMW-i3/problems-1218/2014
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Nov 7, 2016 20:45
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bizwank posted:CR's used car data comes from owners so it's usually pretty trustworthy; here's some more data and very little of it is just a "software fix": http://www.truedelta.com/BMW-i3/problems-1218/2014 Hmm, looks typically BMW buy it with a warranty stuff.
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Nov 7, 2016 21:30
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bizwank posted:CR's used car data comes from owners so it's usually pretty trustworthy; here's some more data and very little of it is just a "software fix": http://www.truedelta.com/BMW-i3/problems-1218/2014 Thanks for the link! Seems like most of the serious issues revolve around the REx model, which I'm not interested in. And of course, it wouldn't be a real BMW without  issues.
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Nov 7, 2016 22:01
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Ola posted:Do you really need one of those expensive boxes? Isn't it enough with a plug that supports 220v and whatever amps (16? 20?) plus the appropriate adapter? I don't own a Tesla.
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Nov 7, 2016 22:02
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MrYenko posted:I don't own a Tesla. I understand the same electricity can be used for different cars.
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Nov 7, 2016 22:06
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The same adapters can't. I don't know the specifics, but I think the electronics that are external to most EVs seem to be internal in the Tesla.
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Nov 7, 2016 22:59
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Right, sorry, I should have read up a bit better before posting. It's kind of weird because as I understand it, the charger (i.e. the bit that converts AC to DC and monitors the battery) is in the car, so if you could just get 240V 16A to it, you're good. But apparently it's not that easy. MrYenko, if you're not getting an EV after the Volt, and the Volt goes from empty to full overnight, I wouldn't bother. That said, the wall mounted things aren't all that expensive. https://www.boschevsolutions.com/charging-stations/power-max
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Nov 8, 2016 00:02
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Test drove a 2014 i3 with 1100 miles on it today. Yes, eleven hundred miles. Dealer was asking $26k. Pretty sure I could get that down a bit, but drat. Beautiful car, and even if it's a turd in terms of resale, I'm struggling to see how this could go wrong.
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Nov 8, 2016 02:56
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I don't know how comfortable I'd feel with buying the older, smaller battery version. Like you said, resale value sucks, but you're also sinking a bunch of money into essentially the first gen model in a rapidly changing market. Leasing in the EV market seems like a much safer overall bet. You may not get as great a deal overall, but at least you're not stuck with a very out of date model.
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Nov 8, 2016 03:00
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If I ever get a Tesla, I'm wrapping it matte blue metallic.  Dat luster  Looks good with those Rial rims too, but I would stick with the new standard 19" Slipstreams. And perhaps un-chrome it with brushed metal wrap?
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Nov 8, 2016 19:15
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Ola posted:If I ever get a Tesla, I'm wrapping it matte blue metallic. That looks like a bad render
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Nov 8, 2016 21:21
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Ola posted:Right, sorry, I should have read up a bit better before posting. It's kind of weird because as I understand it, the charger (i.e. the bit that converts AC to DC and monitors the battery) is in the car, so if you could just get 240V 16A to it, you're good. But apparently it's not that easy. MrYenko, if you're not getting an EV after the Volt, and the Volt goes from empty to full overnight, I wouldn't bother. Basicly the evse just negotiates the amount of power the charger (part in the car) can pull. The evse is there so you dont trip breakers or melt outlets. I ran the wires and installed a 40amp evse on a 50 amp circuit for my volt even though the charger can only pull 16amps. The price difference wasn't that much and i'll be set to charge something at a higher rate if a I get a different EV down the road or a friend needs to charge their Model 3.
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Nov 8, 2016 21:40
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D C posted:That looks like a bad render Yeah, nice cars deserve specular highlights.
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Nov 8, 2016 22:10
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OT but now I'd like to see a wrap that makes a car look like a low-poly model. Jaggies and everything, like a GT2 model.
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Nov 8, 2016 22:16
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Finger Prince posted:OT but now I'd like to see a wrap that makes a car look like a low-poly model. Jaggies and everything, like a GT2 model. 
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Nov 8, 2016 22:42
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Platystemon posted:Each wheel has at least one electric motor mechanically connected to it, with no way to disconnect, and without the car’s systems energised to manage the flow of electricity, bad things would happen. Is this true? my wife's 2010 Prius manual says to flatbed it only.
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Nov 9, 2016 00:19
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stevobob posted:Is this true? my wife's 2010 Prius manual says to flatbed it only. Apparently a lot of people tow it on a dolly without problems.
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Nov 9, 2016 00:57
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First look at the Hyundai Ioniq, courtesy of Robert Llewellyn. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kZgYdKmIKA Simple but good feature-wise, design suffers a bit from "fill it with shapes and angles"-disease, all in all I'd say it's a very competent Leaf-competitor.
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Nov 9, 2016 23:26
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Why does it have a separate control for regenerative braking instead of just using the brake pedal?
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Nov 10, 2016 00:00
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Collateral Damage posted:Why does it have a separate control for regenerative braking instead of just using the brake pedal? I don't know, but mixing regen and friction braking in the same pedal motion has been done badly before and a lever is very simple. You can set it to different modes for short, but particular bits of road, obviously without digging into menus. It might be comfortable to have it off on a flat highway but then you can quickly switch to max going down a long hill. You fine tune it with the accelerator, not the brake. The e-Golf sort of does this and it might sound weird but it is a lot nicer and more useful than you might think. e: oh right, I might've misunderstood that. It regens when you let off the accelerator, like engine braking. The lever controls the amount of regen. Ola fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Nov 10, 2016 |
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Nov 10, 2016 00:15
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Collateral Damage posted:Why does it have a separate control for regenerative braking instead of just using the brake pedal? I think it's just to control the level of regen you'll get when you let off he accelerator.
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Nov 10, 2016 00:16
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I think I'll need to try it to understand it. With the max regen braking setting on the leaf, if I don't want to slow down I just don't let the accelerator pedal all the way out. I found it a hassle in the e-up, where you select from several strengths with the "gear" lever.
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Nov 10, 2016 01:03
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:I think it's just to control the level of regen you'll get when you let off he accelerator. The S has a binary setting for that, but a whole lever seems like overkill. I don't know anyone who changes it regularly (and only casual drivers who use the "low" setting at all).
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Nov 10, 2016 01:38
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I like the idea of having "coast" vs. "regen" but am willing to admit that having another control to decide that may get needlessly fiddly.
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Nov 10, 2016 04:32
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