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If you're already seeing some sort of mental health professional wouldn't it come up anyway?
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Nov 22, 2015 21:50
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No not ever?
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Nov 22, 2015 22:03
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I have a note from my therapist for one of my dogs so I could take him with me on a plane - I get panic attacks and was traveling alone so I didn't want to knock myself out with meds. I spent a long time going back and forth if it was actually necessary, and having him with me on my lap in the plane is the only accommodation I use (since I own my own house). If you feel like you need a dog to be with you in all public spaces, they need to be trained to provide specific assistance, not just an ESA.
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Nov 23, 2015 01:07
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No not all. Within reason of course. I'm not going to argue my way into a hospital ICU to prove a point. But I do have finances to throw at proper training
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Nov 23, 2015 01:21
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I don't think ESAs need any training. They also don't have any public access rights. I thought it was only service dogs that were granted that right, and that's only when they're specifically trained to perform a specific task to help mitigate a disability. In Lenk's description of bringing the dog on a plane, it sounds like the dog was acting in a service capacity, which may be why it was allowed on without a carrier. Some people don't really understand the rules and feel like ESAs and therapy dogs can be brought anywhere like SDs. So, training is good. And sometimes good training costs money, so it's good to know you have some finances to back it up. Though I don't think it's considered necessary. With all that said, I have next to no real knowledge of service dogs, so what I've said may be incorrect. 
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Nov 23, 2015 17:01
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I found this article enlightening about ESAs http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2014/10/20/pets-allowed ESAs really don't have the same rights as service animals but unfortunately (or fortunately for you if you're the owner of an ESA), most people are really not aware of the distinction and veer on the side of not wanting to be sued so ESA owners can get away with a lot.
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Nov 23, 2015 18:38
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Most airlines have a written policy that you can have an ESA in your lap, at your feet or in a carrier, but they must be under control at all times (basically the same rules that apply to service animals). This is at the airline's discretion; they could also follow the letter of the air travel access act by only allowing ESAs in a carrier. If this was the case I wouldn't be able to use my dog as an ESA; he's slightly too large to fit in a carry-on.
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Nov 23, 2015 22:57
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Training to stay in the yard? Is this possible? An Invisible Fence is my last resort. I really don't want one. My brother has one for his shiloh shepherd and swears by it, but I don't think it's right for my dog or our neighborhood. They live out in the country with 2.5 acres with little distractions. I live in busy urban neighborhood with lots of kids on bikes or people out with their pets. We got the estimate to do a chain link fence on a portion of our property but it is way more expensive than what we thought it was going to be for just a small little area. I just want my dog to stay near me when I take him out. We had a rottweiler who was basically in a permanent heel no matter what, where ever we took her, even if it was to the dog park/beach or hiking. We never taught her this. It was just how she was (we adopted her from the county shelter). She passed away in October. We ended up rescuing another dog. He is a 3.5 year old rottie/lab(?) mix. He is not very bright though. My beagle mix is much smarter than he is. He also tends to wander away, so I have been keeping him on a long leash. He's incredibly strong so I cannot take both dogs out on a leash at once. If I take one dog out at a time, he freaks out and barks when he's left in the house, which wakes up the other people in the house. I really want him to stay at my side like our rottie did. I'm not sure if this is even possible. Any suggestions? Where would I even begin with this? We're having a lot of trouble even teaching him his new name.   (this is him at a fenced in wooded dog park)
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Jan 12, 2016 20:18
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I might try a dog hitch deal like http://www.amazon.com/Dogit-Cork-Screw-Tie-Out-Stake-Large/dp/B001B7P83A But I have no idea how well they would work for you. As far as training, you will probably want to start working towards a rock solid recall. Personally I'd save for a fence, especially if there's a likelihood that he could get hit by a car or seriously injured if something goes wrong.
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Jan 12, 2016 21:24
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anaaki posted:Training to stay in the yard? Is this possible? It's possible, but it's a pretty advanced behaviour and exercise in self control around some really heavy duty distractions. Some dogs innately stick close. Others need to be taught. Right now, use a tie-out for when he's outside, and don't leave him out unsupervised for any real length of time. In your situation an underground fence isn't ideal and I don't think it's what you're looking for. Do as suggested above and just work on recall and self control. There are lots of helpful links in the OP and hidden in this thread in general. But just keep in mind, again, what you're looking for is pretty advanced especially for a dog that likes to explore as you describe. It may never happen with 100% reliability. You could also work with a trainer to get some custom-tailored advice to your situation. Just don't go to someone who starts talking about being the alpha or some poo poo. Also, your pup is pretty tubby. Unsolicited advice is to have him drop 5 pounds. 
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Jan 12, 2016 22:40
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There are also some cheaper, temporary fencing options that you might want to explore. I know some people have had good luck with either cattle panels or woven wire attached to t posts from the farm store if your dog isn't a big jumper. I saw in the mutt thread that he's lost weight already, great job! Keep that fatty chunk moving 
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Jan 13, 2016 00:09
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Do you have trees in your yard? They make tethers that are like zip lines you can tie between trees, it gives them a huge range of motion but keeps them contained as well.
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Jan 13, 2016 00:28
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a life less posted:It's possible, but it's a pretty advanced behaviour and exercise in self control around some really heavy duty distractions. That was my concern, that it is too advanced for him. He's a lover, but he's dumb. I think that is part of my frustration. Our rottie was rescued from a home. She was well taken care of and already perfectly trained. Plus she was 4. She was literally a one in a million dog. Even with PG our beagle mix (beagle/doxie), I clicker trained her starting at 6 weeks. She's smart as a whip. Dynamite (dog in question) is just... we've had him over a month now and he still doesn't respond to his new name (he does still know his old name... he was an owner surrender). Even "sit" and "down" were a challenge with him. He's very slow to catch on. At first I thought he was deaf! He's such an oaf. I have dog trainer but our relationship has turned into that of a friendship and I hate to bug her because I feel guilty when she gives me free advice, and her business took off and she is SO busy. https://www.apleasantdog.com You should have seen Dynamite when we first got him from the shelter.  This was the night we brought him home. He was 105 pound sausage roll. We've been portioning his food. I need to take him in for a vet check up so we can see where he is at currently. Instant Jellyfish posted:I saw in the mutt thread that he's lost weight already, great job! Keep that fatty chunk moving Hazel our rottie was 125 when we brought her home and we got her down to 95. She looked SO good.
anaaki fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Jan 13, 2016 |
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Jan 13, 2016 04:32
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anaaki posted:You should have seen Dynamite when we first got him from the shelter. Awesome! Congrats. Good luck with it!
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Jan 13, 2016 16:15
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So my dog is being unusually aggressive, and I think it may be fear based. I did some reading and I think it may be because I haven't been taking him on walks since the winter has been so cold. Could this aggression be because he's bored? He's an eleven month old German shepherd husky mix and I'm worried that I hosed up and it's too late to socialize him better because he likes to play rough with his littermate and that's pretty much all he's known. Luckily since he's still a puppy people give me a lot of grace, but I want to nip this in the bud. Should I consult a professional dog trainer, or is there a book/training regimen that is goon approved? Here's a picture of him with me  He's so sweet and he likes to comfort you if you're sad or if you have an injury and I just want to make sure he won't eat any future children at the very least since I'm fine with him being a good protector dog and guarding the house from people when I'm not home or whatever. I like that he barks at strangers at the door but if that includes being aggressive then I'd rather scrap that FAT32 SHAMER fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Jan 17, 2016 |
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Jan 17, 2016 00:43
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Aggressive how? Aggressive toward people or other dogs or both? What's he doing?
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Jan 17, 2016 01:27
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The OP of this thread is great, thank you. I am fostering a treeing walking coon hound, she is 2 years old and was originally a stray. She's super timid which is understandable as this is day 1 in a new place with new owners. She hasn't ever been trained, and she's really unresponsive to anything besides food. Even getting her to come outside can be difficult, she just seems totally confused about everything we do with her. This might all just be because she's in a new home and doesn't know us well, but any advice on beginning to train a very unresponsive/confused dog would be a great help.
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Jan 17, 2016 01:42
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:Aggressive how? Aggressive toward people or other dogs or both? What's he doing? So he barks at dogs and to me it looks like play bites at them, but since he looks like a big German shepherd instead of a smallish puppy people get freaked out or worried Or what actually got me to post about it is we were meeting my brothers new girlfriend, who LOVES dogs and was more excited to meet him that to meet us, and in that instance I believe he was afraid since she stupidly got her face a little to close and he growled at her and tried to nip before I was able to scoop him up and hold him Otherwise he barks and growls at strangers and does a lot of nipping at the air as like posturing or something.
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Jan 17, 2016 01:52
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Get thee to a professional dog trainer for some one on one sessions, this is behavior you need to stop before he bites a stranger.
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Jan 17, 2016 02:20
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:Get thee to a professional dog trainer for some one on one sessions, this is behavior you need to stop before he bites a stranger. That's kind of what I was thinking, especially since while I'm good at taking care of and training dogs and he is pretty well trained wrt sitting, heeling, and laying down, I've only ever trained small dogs whose demeanour is more of OMG HOW CAN I MAKE YOU HAPPY vs a dog like Rascal that is much more headstrong and independent Edit: does anyone have any sort of idea how much this might cost? I don't have a lot of spare cash right now and while I could probably afford it, it may have to come out of savings, which is something that I would like to avoid Edit 2: oh hey I found a place right near me that is certified and only $50 for an evaluation then $35 for an hour long private class That's pretty solid, and doable
FAT32 SHAMER fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Jan 17, 2016 |
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Jan 17, 2016 02:31
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Tusen Takk posted:That's kind of what I was thinking, especially since while I'm good at taking care of and training dogs and he is pretty well trained wrt sitting, heeling, and laying down, I've only ever trained small dogs whose demeanour is more of OMG HOW CAN I MAKE YOU HAPPY vs a dog like Rascal that is much more headstrong and independent $50 then $35 sounds about right. What are they certified by? There are a lot of bullshit organizations out there. As long as the trainer isn't into dominance theory bullshit you should be ok to at least get some tools to work with on your own though. I did something similar with my DA dog, I got a private session with a trainer to figure out what his triggers were then we figured out how best to manage that. He's not perfect but at least I know what to to do to manage his behavior.
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Jan 17, 2016 03:16
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:$50 then $35 sounds about right. What are they certified by? There are a lot of bullshit organizations out there. As long as the trainer isn't into dominance theory bullshit you should be ok to at least get some tools to work with on your own though. I did something similar with my DA dog, I got a private session with a trainer to figure out what his triggers were then we figured out how best to manage that. He's not perfect but at least I know what to to do to manage his behavior. They're certified by the APDT, I think. I found them on the APDT website anyways  if there is a better website to search through definitely point me in that direction just so I don't waste $50 to be told that I gotta dom my dog haha
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Jan 17, 2016 06:56
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There's a ton of random trash all over the street where I live (NYC), and my 9-month Husky/Pyrenees pretty much will eat anything. You name it...receipts, tin foil, broken glass(!), dirt, gum...her leave-it and drop are okay, still working on it. Anyways, apart from telling her to leave it all the time, or just holding her back -- when I'm out, I've been trying to reward her when she sees then passes up something that I think she might be interested in eating. I know that dogs don't generalize well, and I don't expect her to stop sniffing around for food entirely or anything like that, but I'm wondering if this will at least lower her interest in eating poo poo off the ground all the time.
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Jan 17, 2016 22:38
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We had the same problem with our pup - you really don't realize how many chicken bones are on the street until you own a dog. We did the "leave it/drop it" and would reward her with treats if she complied. As she got older I think she actually outgrew this habit naturally... nowadays she'll sniff at a lot of things but hesitates before putting it in her mouth, which gives us enough time to pull her away.
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Jan 18, 2016 01:48
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nyquil posted:There's a ton of random trash all over the street where I live (NYC), and my 9-month Husky/Pyrenees pretty much will eat anything. You name it...receipts, tin foil, broken glass(!), dirt, gum...her leave-it and drop are okay, still working on it. I think you're dealing with it well, but you might want to also consider a head halter to gain really good control of her head while you work on building her self control and working on her leave it cue.
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Jan 18, 2016 02:16
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a life less posted:I think you're dealing with it well, but you might want to also consider a head halter to gain really good control of her head while you work on building her self control and working on her leave it cue. Ah good idea. I'll check it out and see how she takes to it. One challenge re: dropping stuff, she has no interest in picking up anything while in a non-distracting environment, and too much while she's walking down the street, or in some Central Park bush/hobo den. This tug/drop exercise (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9mPoWuvnLg) looks pretty useful but she has no interest in tugging...I was thinking about getting one of those tugs that you can stuff food into. I'm slightly hesitant just because I wonder if it could make some association between toys and food, and somehow end up with a resource guarding problem down the line or something. Unrelated, she has a good recall even while playing with other dogs but for some reason I never thought to use a physical gesture and it'd be nice to add. I'm not sure what would be more effective though: adding the physical cue to the current verbal cue, or just start from scratch with a purely physical gesture?
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Jan 18, 2016 21:30
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You could train an additional command using a gesture and a different word. If you currently say "come" and she comes, you could add "touch" while sticking your palm out (she'll come over and bop her nose against your hand). I know some people use "come" for more casual instances and "touch" for real emergencies/to steer them from danger. We use them interchangeably and with varying degrees of success depending on what distractions are present.
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Jan 18, 2016 22:08
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nyquil posted:Ah good idea. I'll check it out and see how she takes to it. This is a good method to teach drop it if you don't have a tug motivated dog: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndTiVOCNY4M Regarding adding an additional cue to your existing recall, I would go back a few steps but maybe not necessarily to the very beginning and introduce the signal with the verbal together. Once it's been associated with the verbal you can start doing exercises with verbal & signal interchangeably, or signal only.
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Jan 18, 2016 22:15
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Question: We have a lab who is about five years old. He was fantastically behaved for the longest time. He is still well-behaved, but he has developed a people food problem. As of 2-3 months ago, we could, for instance, leave a plate with a sandwich on the floor, leave the house for several hours, and he would not touch it. That changed, and it changed rapidly. Now when we leave the house or kitchen, pretty much anything on the floor, table, and counter gets cleaned out. We have little kids, so there is always food around. What can I do? The obvious thing I can think of is try to catch him going for food, correcting, and rewarding for not eating the food, but he doesn't grab the food in front of us.
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Jan 19, 2016 19:23
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Stop his access to the food. He might have just never realised he could grab a thing left unattended - and really holding him to that standard even then was silly. Holding it to him now after he's a proven counter surfer is just stupid. Clean up after your kids or prevent or limit his access when unsupervised to the kitchen/food areas. You can do impulse control work with him but honestly, I'd say 99% of dogs will take food that is freely available to them if you aren't there to say yay or nay.
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Jan 20, 2016 09:09
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Our dog is almost 5 months old. So far she's done pretty well with crate training, and usually sleeps through the night. If she does need to be let out she'll bark until we wake up which is fine. The thing is, once the alarm goes off for us to get up in the morning, the barking starts and won't stop until we're up. Will she calm down as she gets older or is there something we can do to train her to just chill when we start to stir in the morning? BoyMeetsWorld fucked around with this message at 13:35 on Feb 1, 2016 |
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Feb 1, 2016 13:30
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You have two options - ignore, or acknowledge but don't let her out. Ignoring should show the dog that acting up doesn't get her what she wants, so she may as well stay put and wait it out. Eventually she'll get used to the schedule and all will be good. Unless she gets some degree of reinforcement for her barking, like hearing you stir, or even some degree of self reinforcement. If that's the case, ignoring it may not do much. Acknowledging it basically tells the dog, "yes, I hear you and am aware of your continued existence -- no, you're not getting out". This can be helpful for some dogs, like mine when she was a pup. Don't be angry or threatening or soothing -- just be neutral. This may not work if hearing your voice is reinforcing the bark. It depends on the dog and your situation. Either way, don't let the dog out until she's quiet and relaxed.
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Feb 1, 2016 15:31
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a life less posted:You have two options - ignore, or acknowledge but don't let her out. Thanks for the advice. I like the second idea, mostly because we live in an apartment, so as much as we'd like to ignore her, we also need to be good neighbors. What does is actually mean to acknowledge her but not let her out? This morning I took the cover off the crate and stood nearby, and there was no barking. She yapped a little and whined but mostly stood there quiet. I feel like once I've gotten out of bed she's gotten what she wants and I may as well let her out?
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Feb 2, 2016 13:22
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That sounds just fine. I was more thinking that if she was barking and you were still in bed, acknowledge her but don't, you know, get out of bed. Because sleep is great.
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Feb 2, 2016 15:11
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We started letting our puppy (who is turning 1 on Saturday) out of his cage all night, but unable to go downstairs, a few months ago and now he's to the point where I can let him stay out all night without getting into anything and let me tell you it is so much nicer than waking up to him crying and telling him to hush for a few minutes I don't miss it :p
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Feb 2, 2016 15:14
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Tusen Takk posted:We started letting our puppy (who is turning 1 on Saturday) out of his cage all night, but unable to go downstairs, a few months ago and now he's to the point where I can let him stay out all night without getting into anything and let me tell you it is so much nicer than waking up to him crying and telling him to hush for a few minutes Yes! That is my hope. She's still at the point of eating random stuff and an occasional indoor accident, but we'll get there fingers crossed.
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Feb 2, 2016 19:24
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Hoping I can get a bit of feedback and direction with something. Rufus watches out the window of the living room and barks sometimes if he doesn't like the look of someone walking past (usually reflective jackets, men in hats or people walking v slowly), and always barks when someone comes up the garden to the front door. What I've been doing so far is letting him watch out the window as much as he wants, but if he starts barking he gets a timeout somewhere he can't see out, which is normally just his bed on the other side of the room. After a few minutes I let him do whatever again, which is sometimes going back to the window and sometimes not. The other thing I do is if he voluntarily stops looking out the window at any point I reward him, and when he's on his bed/the sofa/anywhere else I treat him randomly just with kibble. Is this a good way of approaching the issue? When we're not home he is left in the living room, but with the blinds down and the curtain drawn so he can't see out. I'm guessing he definitely still barks when there's someone at the door but he definitely can't see out to guard so hopefully he isn't self reinforcing it when we're not there. Also if we meet other dogs at the park and they start playing together he barks at them to get them to chase him and then barks at them while they're running around as well. I'm pretty sure it's just excitement but I always feel a bit uncomfortable and worry the other owner will think he's aggressive so I tend to apologise and leave. I'm not sure though if this is normal dog behaviour and I'm overreacting or if it is Rude! minema fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Feb 19, 2016 |
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Feb 19, 2016 17:01
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In my experience, most people can tell the difference between types of barks, so when Rascal is using a threatening bark I'm embarrassed compared to one of his greeting/LOOK AT ME WATCH ME GO barks I guess it helps that the hair his back stands up when he's being threatening though
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Feb 20, 2016 03:22
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I'm having a hell of a time teaching my dog to stay out of the bathroom trash. He loves chewing on paper products. He'll respond to "leave it" and "drop it" pretty consistently but if the bathroom door is open he'll go right back in as soon as you aren't paying attention. Obviously limiting access helps but I don't feel like the solution is telling my roommate to always keep her bathroom door shut and to buy a new trash can. Any advice on how I can dissuade him from being a pain in the rear end? Here's a picture of the little mutant: 
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Feb 20, 2016 20:22
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I kinda feel like covered trashcans in the kitchen and bathroom are just part of dog ownership. Bathroom trash smells just as good to dogs as food trash in the kitchen. They have no shame. After my dog decided that used tampons were interesting enough to pull out of the trash a couple times I just got a covered trashcan and there have been no problems since.
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Feb 20, 2016 23:30
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