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They were probably talking about liquid metal, which messes with other metals, in particular aluminium. If things are nickel plated, things are usually fine. Ceramic is also fine. Best performing paste seems to be ThermalGrizzly Kryonaut, but it's also more expensive than others.
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Sep 29, 2018 17:31
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Quick question , I'm looking to setup a video wall for work What is the goto solution these days , is it still matrox or something cards ? I'm pretty sure a high end nvidia card can run 3 or 4 devices, but how well does that work for making a video wall setup that is seamless?
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Sep 30, 2018 01:40
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I assume you need the picture to be well synced between different video cards? I understand a sync card is needed for that, otherwise the frame drawing between displays will not align. You might also encounter extra limitations in terms of number of displays. I believe you also need them all to be of the same type of connector, though I am not confident in my understanding of the detailed limitations. This is with Nvidia Quadro. I have no idea what other types of devices do.
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Sep 30, 2018 14:58
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You can certainly run several displays off of a consumer-grade graphics card; my 1070 for example has 5 outputs and I've had at least 4 if not all 5 in use simultaneously, albeit not for a video wall.
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Sep 30, 2018 21:47
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What kind of media needs to be played on it? My work generally uses BrightSign players which seem to be like enterprise level Raspberry Pis which were designed to be media players. I’ve never messed around with them myself but they seem pretty reliable and stable for the sometimes absurd things we need to do.
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Oct 1, 2018 17:13
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I bought a Samsung Odyssey VR headset while travelling and was looking forward to finally trying it when I got back. I was unexpectedly forward-thinking and ordered the required BT4.0 dongle and a PCIe USB 3.1 controller (>=3.0 is required apparently, so why not get the newer tech while we're at it, right) which I checked that the PC already didn't have. Yeah that's the only other PCIe slot right behind the GPU cooler. And it's 1x instead of 4x as the 3.1 controller needs (but unlike most 3.0). Fuuuuck. I could get the 3.0 board instead but that still won't solve the problem. Unless...  Do these riser cards even work in this kind of 1x->4x arrangement, or even 1->16x as shown here? This one I found locally still probably wouldn't do it anyway because the cable would stick out straight into the cooler, of course, unless I resoldered the connector at 90 degrees  Short of moving the slot itself with even more hackery, the next sensible step would be to find a less useless motherboard, but it's (hopefully standard) LGA1155 MicroATX and from a quick glance there aren't many of them around here. Are there any other possibilities I might be overlooking here other than finally getting a new computer?
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Oct 1, 2018 21:03
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There are PCIe 1x usb 3.0 cards that should work with the Odyssey, and you could try using an extension cable to get it hooked up under you graphics card (I assume you have a 2-slot card). The clearance might be tight, though, so you might want to measure/eyeball it before spending more money.
Stickman fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Oct 1, 2018 |
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Oct 1, 2018 22:26
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Fragrag posted:What kind of media needs to be played on it? My work generally uses BrightSign players which seem to be like enterprise level Raspberry Pis which were designed to be media players. I’ve never messed around with them myself but they seem pretty reliable and stable for the sometimes absurd things we need to do. Not media so much as I just need a massive windows desktop Then I have a few surveillance camera windows I can place in any orientation I need Problem is the surveillance program is pretty GPU and CPU intensive , having 20 odd HD cameras live streaming is enough. Past that it starts to get slow And I eventually need to support probably closer to 50 cameras if not 60 So it's not so much how do I get 4 big screens together , but how do I support the program(s) I'm trying to display across them all at once
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Oct 2, 2018 00:15
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just a quick question but have you ever considered approaching this horizontally instead of just beefing up a single box to infinity?
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Oct 2, 2018 00:35
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Sniep posted:just a quick question but have you ever considered approaching this horizontally instead of just beefing up a single box to infinity? Sorry not sure what you mean by horizontal .... is that virtualization ? I'm old school in my knowledge I only really know about running clients and servers and such How else should I be approaching this ? The setup is a surveillance desk. Where the person is viewing the feeds from a few locations, plus other programs they need on screen Right now I'm using one desktop to do email and also run the surveillance program, with two more computers running a monitor each for other tasks needed for the desk So I end up with basically 4 monitors , and 3 PC's I want to keep the desktop for the person to use for email and surfing. But a dedicated video wall that can run all the surveillance without having to require a user to login and out each time. Its just always up
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Oct 2, 2018 04:44
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I think he's just saying that if your one PC can't handle the extra load more cameras will put on the system, use more surveillance camera PCs instead of trying to cram it all into one. I would've called it parallel instead of horizontal but I think that's the gist.
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Oct 2, 2018 04:51
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Rexxed posted:I think he's just saying that if your one PC can't handle the extra load more cameras will put on the system, use more surveillance camera PCs instead of trying to cram it all into one. I would've called it parallel instead of horizontal but I think that's the gist. right that goes back to the question, how do I build a video wall, that can accept output from multiple streams so if i have two dedicated machines running the surveillance software, i would need to pipe both into the video wall or maybe I'm missing the forest for the trees here and there is a really good solution someone had thought of 10 years ago, but this is all new to me
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Oct 2, 2018 04:54
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horizontal as in just multiple concurrent workers instead of one bigger worker, could it be split between a few pcs for a dozen cams a piece or something and then aggregated. i'd be fascinated to hear if anyone has pro experience in how this is designed. I know my synology nas offers encoding licenses per camera, and it ain't cheap and that has nothing to do with a video wall, just caught up to that i've worked in NOCs for a loonnng rear end time and it's usually handled by a bunch of PCs that each drive individual screens or screen matrices but it's literaly something that requires janitoring it regularly, at least in the places i've worked Sniep fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Oct 2, 2018 |
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Oct 2, 2018 04:54
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What surveillance software are you using? I run Blue Iris and home and the way most people run it is on a headless server. You setup the server to record video at full resolution but you access the camera feeds via a WebUI or Java program that can run on a low powered box like a RasPI or something similar. The server hands out a lower resolution multi-cam display at less FPS instead of the system trying to display 20+ 2mp video feeds on one graphics card. You can then click on a feed and get a single, full resolution feed. I might be stating the obvious and not solving your problem though.
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Oct 2, 2018 05:02
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Sniep posted:horizontal as in just multiple concurrent workers instead of one bigger worker, could it be split between a few pcs for a dozen cams a piece or something and then aggregated. yeah i'd be curious to see how they do it with the big monitoring stations our NVR is top notch, and they have software that will run ON a video wall to allow free placement of multiple surveillance windows etc, but i need to build and have the video wall running first  same idea but on a much smaller scale, how do?
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Oct 2, 2018 05:06
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FCKGW posted:What surveillance software are you using? everything is march networks, the NVR is headless and the client pulls up the feeds with the surveillance center software I AM streaming full HD full frame from all the cameras, but we are running a gig network so no problem with bandwidth. Maybe that's part of the problem, but I also don't want to sacrifice frame rate or quality if I can help it, as the cameras are critical, hence why someone is monitoring them 24/7
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Oct 2, 2018 05:11
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Stickman posted:There are PCIe 1x usb 3.0 cards that should work with the Odyssey, and you could try using an extension cable to get it hooked up under you graphics card (I assume you have a 2-slot card). The clearance might be tight, though, so you might want to measure/eyeball it before spending more money.
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Oct 2, 2018 10:49
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So I just started up my computer, and for some reason, all of my desktop folders are moved to a TEMP user file. Does this mean that my current user profile is corrupted? I tried to move the folders back to my desktop, but when I rebooted, the folders were gone again
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Oct 2, 2018 20:58
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Willo567 posted:So I just started up my computer, and for some reason, all of my desktop folders are moved to a TEMP user file. Does this mean that my current user profile is corrupted? I tried to move the folders back to my desktop, but when I rebooted, the folders were gone again Yes, it sounds like it has some kind of corruption or fault. Try to check the Event Viewer's Application log around the time you logged in, it might be able to tell what the issue is.
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Oct 2, 2018 22:31
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Saukkis posted:Yes, it sounds like it has some kind of corruption or fault. Try to check the Event Viewer's Application log around the time you logged in, it might be able to tell what the issue is. Yeah, I ended up creating a new account and transferred my files. What causes a user account to become corrupted? I scanned my antivirus and everything seemed all right
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Oct 2, 2018 23:21
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Willo567 posted:Yeah, I ended up creating a new account and transferred my files. What causes a user account to become corrupted? I scanned my antivirus and everything seemed all right You may want to do a checkdisk on your drive just in case it's got some corruption in the filesystem. If so you can also check it with CrystalDiskInfo to see if there's any bad stuff reported by the drive controller in the SMART data of the drive that could indicate disk failure. It's probably just windows being windows but it doesn't hurt to check if the disk is having an issue.
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Oct 2, 2018 23:59
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My new GPU has a 6+6 to 8pin adapter, but is this equivalent to me just using an 8pin (6+2 in one) cable direcly? I’d rather not use the ugly adapter. It’s an Nvidia Pascal GPU and a Seasonic PSU fwiw. ufarn fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Oct 3, 2018 |
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Oct 3, 2018 13:42
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Crossposting from the part-picking megathread because, well, this sounds like a short question that doesn't deserve its own thread. I've got a Meshify C, which will house a 2600x with Scythe Mugen 5 cooler, an EVGA 1080 FTW, 2x8Gb sticks or DDR4 and a sata m.2 SSD. It will be cooled by 2x 140mm Corsair LL140 fans in front, and I'm deciding on how to setup other fans; I have 3 ideas mainly (note: case will be on top of the desk, with the rear facing the wall and it can't have too much clearance (about 10-15cm) from the wall - also I already own all the fans below and would like to avoid purchasing anything else): 1) standard positive pressure, front-to-back airflow: 2x 140mm Corsair LL140 front intake (51.5 CFM, 1.52 mmH2O) 1x Fractal X2 GP-12 rear exhaust (52.3 CFM, 0.88 mmH2O) this makes the most sense but I'm not sure if the single exhaust can keep up with the intakes. 100 vs 50 CFM is pretty extreme positive pressure, even if the top is "open" (with a magnetic dust filter) I'm not sure if all the heat will be taken away as it should, I hear the 1080 runs pretty hot especially that EVGA one. 2) balanced pressure, front-to-back-and-top airflow: 2x 140mm Corsair LL140 front intake (51.5 CFM, 1.52 mmH2O) 1x Fractal X2 GP-12 rear exhaust (52.3 CFM, 0.88 mmH2O) 1x Fractal X2 GP-12 top exhaust (52.3 CFM, 0.88 mmH2O) pressure should be balanced or slightly negative here, depending on actual restriction on both intake and top exhaust, and actual fan performance. I'm taking specs from websites, so real-life is probably pretty different. 3) negative pressure, front-to-back-and-top airflow: 2x 140mm Corsair LL140 front intake (51.5 CFM, 1.52 mmH2O) 1x 120mm Scythe Kaze Flex PWM rear exhaust (min 16.6 max 51.17 CFM, min 0.07 max 1.05 mmH2O) 2x 120mm Fractal X2 GP-12 top exhaust (52.3 CFM, 0.88 mmH2O) here we have a lot of negative pressure, bad for dust, good for cooling. I've always avoided this, not sure if it's still a huge no-no? I'd probably use the PWM fan at low RPM to avoid having too much negative pressure and let most of the hot air exhaust from the top I'm tempted to go with setup n° 2, but I'd love some input from experts on the matter... I don't mind fan noise, but I'd prefer to avoid having the sound of an airplane taking off unless it's at full load Thanks
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Oct 3, 2018 15:42
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ufarn posted:My new GPU has a 6+6 to 8pin adapter, but is this equivalent to me just using an 8pin (6+2 in one) cable direcly? I’d rather not use the ugly adapter. The 6-pin cables/connectors are rated for 75 W, the 8-pin ones for 150 W, but in reality the former connector/cables can handle 150 W and the latter just signals that the input is rated for 150 W (the 2 extra conductors are for the signal & ground, all of the power is delivered over the basic 6 leads.) The specific PSU would determine whether or not its 6-pin connector could actually supply >75 W, but failing that, the answer to your question is "yes," combining 2x6 connectors is at worst equivalent to a single 8-pin. Note that Pascal is particularly power-efficient and unlike Vega/Polaris isn't going to suck as much power as the connectors provide (the PCIe slot supplies up to 75 W BTW,) and it's entirely possible to have a video card with an 8-pin power connector that doesn't even use 75 W over it.
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Oct 3, 2018 17:38
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Would there be any different if I were to try to overclock the GPU?
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Oct 3, 2018 17:40
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My 64GB MicroSD card stopped being recognized when I was just moving it between computers yesterday. It is detected when inserted and shows up with a drive letter, but can't be opened ("Please insert disk..."). However, in the windows disk management tool, it's detected correctly as a 60gb (unallocated) volume. So hopefully it's just the filesystem that got messed up somehow. Any ideas how it could be best recovered?
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Oct 3, 2018 19:44
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mobby_6kl posted:My 64GB MicroSD card stopped being recognized when I was just moving it between computers yesterday. It is detected when inserted and shows up with a drive letter, but can't be opened ("Please insert disk..."). However, in the windows disk management tool, it's detected correctly as a 60gb (unallocated) volume. So hopefully it's just the filesystem that got messed up somehow. Any ideas how it could be best recovered? You can use PhotoRec or Recuva to try and recover the files. You can also use TestDisk to repair the filesystem.
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Oct 3, 2018 19:50
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My custom pc froze playing monster hunter last night and now refuses to do anything. It just has a solid orange light when I turn it on and no sign of cpu or hard disk activity. The mouse light doesn’t come on either. Bad motherboard?
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Oct 4, 2018 05:24
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or PSU
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Oct 4, 2018 06:13
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ufarn posted:Would there be any different if I were to try to overclock the GPU? Well it would then require more power, but like I said Pascal is far more power-efficient than AMD's recent offerings. You probably don't even need to bother OCing it, just let it auto-boost. If you really want to try though, Google "overclock XXXX" with whichever card you have to see if you can find the increase in power requirements. Note that, unless I'm mistaken, the card isn't going to be able to draw more power than the various connectors allow, so if you have a card that has one 6-pin connector, it'd be able to draw 150 W max (75 each from the slot and the connector.) mobby_6kl posted:My 64GB MicroSD card stopped being recognized when I was just moving it between computers yesterday. It is detected when inserted and shows up with a drive letter, but can't be opened ("Please insert disk..."). However, in the windows disk management tool, it's detected correctly as a 60gb (unallocated) volume. So hopefully it's just the filesystem that got messed up somehow. Any ideas how it could be best recovered? I've done this before, but results are...less than satisfactory. You'll likely be able to retrieve file contents but not names or directory structure with the tools mentioned. Just restore from your backup. Recently I had a Seagate ST3000DM01 3 TB HDD fail, a notorious model that had nevertheless served me well for over 5 years, shortly after I mentioned it (in the SSD thread here IIRC) being super-reliable!  It took me a good week to restore backups to my new drive (about 4+ TB worth, back and forth from a couple other drives that held the backed-up data, which was only games though) and then download all the updates to get all the software current, and then to back that up to a new external drive. There's really no replacement for backups!A MIRACLE posted:My custom pc froze playing monster hunter last night and now refuses to do anything. It just has a solid orange light when I turn it on and no sign of cpu or hard disk activity. The mouse light doesn’t come on either. Bad motherboard? That kind of thing is usually heat or power related, and this sounds like power. Check the PSU, disconnect it and re-seat the connections, try a different PSU if possible, try that PSU on another system if possible, etc.
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Oct 4, 2018 06:21
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How can i tell if a game is running poorly because my computer is getting old or because the game is poorly optimized? Is it as simple as looking at the Task Manager performance monitor and if one of the primary resources is maxed out and the game is chugging i need to upgrade that part? But if it's chugging along with nothing maxed out it's the game? I want to get more into upgrading my computer myself and etc instead of paying companies to do it, but i need to learn how to identify stuff like this first.
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Oct 4, 2018 16:08
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a 4-port KVM for my desk at work?
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Oct 4, 2018 16:46
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Dongattack posted:How can i tell if a game is running poorly because my computer is getting old or because the game is poorly optimized? Is it as simple as looking at the Task Manager performance monitor and if one of the primary resources is maxed out and the game is chugging i need to upgrade that part? But if it's chugging along with nothing maxed out it's the game? Looking at the CPU/GPU in the task manager can be informative, but it's also possible that something else is eating up system resources on your machine specifically. If you have poor performance on a particular game, you'll want to search the internet / ask in thread to see if other people with similar systems have similar performance. If you have <= 8GB of RAM (and/or have tons of Chrome tabs open / mucho multitasking), it's also possible that you might run into paging issues in memory-intensive games. If you post your current system and the games you're playing in the PC building thread (+monitor resolution/refresh), there's quite a few goons who can give good advice on what to upgrade to get it up to snuff.
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Oct 4, 2018 19:14
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I like to play Switch at my desk hooked up to my monitor. I currently have to unplug the HDMI from my PC and swap the switch one in, and swap the audio cable as well (red + white audio on M-Audio speakers to PC, or red + white to monitor when playing switch) Is there a set of cables or components I can buy to make switching from PC video and audio, to Switch video and audio?
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Oct 5, 2018 19:47
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This might do the trick https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG
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Oct 5, 2018 20:31
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Any UPS recommendations for a DIY user wanting 1hr+ power outage uptime for a single server and terminal?
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Oct 6, 2018 15:38
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baquerd posted:Any UPS recommendations for a DIY user wanting 1hr+ power outage uptime for a single server and terminal? I have a few cyber power PFCLCD units of varying sizes up to 1500va and am happy with them, about the same as the APC I used to use ages ago, and vastly superior to the crap belkins I had in between. However run time is a factor of the load, the more power the connected hardware draws, the less run time you will get. See: https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/tools/runtimes/ or http://www.apc.com/products/runtime_for_extendedruntime.cfm?ISOCountryCode=us Perhaps invest in a kill-a-watt power meter and determine how many watts said server and terminal uses on average over a week or two and size a UPS accordingly. Note, the charts are assuming a new/full capacity battery so plan for a little more than you need to account for battery capacity loss with age, that way you should be able to hold off somewhat costly battery swaps to every 2-3 years instead of every year. If you are doing this to keep the server online and connected to the internet, keep in mind your network / modem also need to be protected AND your ISP has to stay up. I know when we used to be on cable that it reliably died about 20 minutes into an outage even if our batteries were still holding, now we are on FTTP through the phone company but there hasn't been an extended outage to test if they have better protection or not. IIRC the government required POTS to be on battery and generator backups but there was no such requirement for cable, so phone companies may be more robust in an outage than cable companies.
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Oct 6, 2018 16:52
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My Cyberpower unit with 1500VA claims up to 40-45 mins of runtime when everything's idle. That's a Threadripper-based higher end system with plenty of fans, two 1440p G-Sync displays, a DSL modem and some 60W-like LED bulb, all putting around 150-160W on the UPS. The interesting with with Cyberpower is that they output close to an actual sine wave, for cheap. APCs in the same price range output the fumbled up square wave, which might not be desirable depending on the PSU in your server (some PSUs can't deal with that waveform under some load).
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Oct 6, 2018 18:28
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Thanks, though I probably should have described my situation better. I'm looking for a replacement for my current https://www.amazon.com/APC-Smart-UPS-3000VA-100-127V-Network/dp/B00DQOAHTQ if that helps to target the level UPS I'm looking for, 30A good to go. Anything under $3k or so would be great, rack mount a big plus. Edit: or maybe I should just replace the batteries?
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Oct 6, 2018 22:42
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Yeah, I would just replace the batteries.
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Oct 7, 2018 00:58
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