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rscott posted:heh I thought the camera reflecting in your door was a dent for a minute I actually was freaked out when I saw the picture too. I hate dents, and I had gone over the car really well before buying it, so I was pissed that I missed it. By the way, what would you guys make of my E36 still having a break-in instruction sticker on the windshield? Replacement engine? Lazy first owner for not removing it? New tires going on hopefully by the end of the week! This is my first BMW, and I'm so impressed by the M50...I had heard so much about these engines, but they really are amazing.
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May 12, 2010 01:08
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Yeah, my '92 E36 doesn't have side markers. I'm pretty sure I've seen a '95 with them though. The change was right around that time.
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May 12, 2010 01:23
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I have the opportunity to buy a 92 525i for >$2,000. It has 180,000 miles, a clean title, clean carfax, clean interior/exterior, runs great. Problem is that it drains the battery. I am young, with no family, a good job, and very little financial obligation. It looks like a great car and I am willing to put up with higher maintainence costs than if it were a honda. Obviously electrical problems are a bitch and if it's likely to turn into a money pit just with that problem alone, I'll steer clear. What is your opinion AI and what should i be aware of/look out for?
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May 12, 2010 05:40
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FIRST TIME posted:I have the opportunity to buy a 92 525i for >$2,000. It has 180,000 miles, a clean title, clean carfax, clean interior/exterior, runs great. Problem is that it drains the battery. I am young, with no family, a good job, and very little financial obligation. Check the chassis grounds near the battery, alternator, starter, coils, etc. If that doesn't fix it, just spend a couple hundred bucks and a weekend to swap out the alternator for a new/rebuilt unit. Good odds you'll have a great car for cheap. Be sure to check the bushings & cooling system, too.
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May 12, 2010 07:19
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After reading through this thread and doing a lot of looking at BMWs I think I'm gonna try to get an E30. It'll be my first car that's actually mine (driven my dad's 1994 F-150 for the last 2 years). If anyone has any tips for finding a good used E30 or what I should look for in them I'd really appreciate it.
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May 12, 2010 14:05
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AtrociousToaster posted:After reading through this thread and doing a lot of looking at BMWs I think I'm gonna try to get an E30. It'll be my first car that's actually mine (driven my dad's 1994 F-150 for the last 2 years). If anyone has any tips for finding a good used E30 or what I should look for in them I'd really appreciate it. The big one that is mentioned for, well, it seems like every BMW, is to check the cooling system, or plan to replace it after you buy it. Good luck, the first time I test drove my E30, I knew I had to have it. I ended up spending way to much on repairs to get it in good working order, but it was worth it.
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May 12, 2010 14:53
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Dyscrasia posted:The big one that is mentioned for, well, it seems like every BMW, is to check the cooling system, or plan to replace it after you buy it. Yeah, I've found a nice 1990 5-speed 325i on craigslist I might go check out, what should I expect to pay for it? It's listed at $2800 but I definitely wouldn't go that high.
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May 12, 2010 15:28
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AtrociousToaster posted:Yeah, I've found a nice 1990 5-speed 325i on craigslist I might go check out, what should I expect to pay for it? It's listed at $2800 but I definitely wouldn't go that high. E30s, especially with 5 speeds, sell for a price dependent upon their condition. If it looks brand new they can sell for $10k+, more normal examples with a few dings and some work needed around around $2k. Just take a look at some E30 specific forums and see what they're going for, they are super market/buyer dependent.
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May 12, 2010 15:49
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Argh, Pelican keeps screwing up. My order was short one set of caliper bolts and one door handle gasket. I tell them and they ship me two door handle gaskets and 0 caliper bolts. Then I called up and the woman said that the caliper bolts only come with one bolt per set. I've bought several of these in the past and they've ALWAYS come in sets of two, and in fact their site even says "4 per car," as in "4 sets of two per car." I imagine they will make it right as their service is pretty good, but it's frustrating having to keep delaying my brake job. If they jerk me around any more I'll just say gently caress it and go buy them at Autozone.
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May 12, 2010 20:31
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revmoo posted:Argh, Pelican keeps screwing up. Is Pelican a pretty good company? I need a fan blade for my E36 and they have it for like $10 more than FCP Groton, who I've never heard of...
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May 12, 2010 20:39
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FIRST TIME posted:What is your opinion AI and what should i be aware of/look out for? GM parts
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May 12, 2010 20:40
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Is Pelican a pretty good company? I need a fan blade for my E36 and they have it for like $10 more than FCP Groton, who I've never heard of... Yeah they are fine; just like any parts company though they occasionally have their issues. They aren't usually the cheapest option either.
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May 12, 2010 20:51
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Is Pelican a pretty good company? I need a fan blade for my E36 and they have it for like $10 more than FCP Groton, who I've never heard of... Yeah they are good. They got back to me, and said that their site was incorrect about the caliper bolt listing. So they were going to make it right, but they are out of stock on the bolts. So they are crediting me for the bolt cost and that's the end of that. I guess I'm satisfied, this cost me nothing but time and I got a free door handle gasket (which I have absolutely no use for). Guess I'll keep it as a spare. I'm pretty sure FCP Groton is good too, I think they're a bf.c sponsor. They are definitely smaller than Pelican. My fav thing about Pelican is that it has persistent carts. I will build up a shopping cart over a span of months, as I find things I need, and then check out all at once with a big order. It's really handy.
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May 12, 2010 20:52
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Well, I ordered from FCP Groton, thanks to some reviews I read, and their sponsorship of several sites. I got the fan blade for my E36 for $33 shipped, which seems like a fantastic price!
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May 12, 2010 21:07
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Well, I ordered from FCP Groton, thanks to some reviews I read, and their sponsorship of several sites. I got the fan blade for my E36 for $33 shipped, which seems like a fantastic price! Getting rid of the fan all together is another solution.
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May 12, 2010 21:16
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Getting rid of the fan all together is another solution. And not something I want to do right now. I am on crutches because of my broken hip, so I can't drain the coolant, etc. at the moment. Hopefully before winter I will get in a cooling system overhaul, if I am able to walk by then. At that point, I might do the fan delete.
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May 12, 2010 21:22
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Fcp Groton gets away with such low prices because the quality is lower than OEM brands. In any case azautohaus and rmeuropean both ship from the same drop warehouse (SF bay area) that pelican uses, but they're both cheaper.
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May 12, 2010 21:36
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I'm doing the fan delete soon. So far I have a new surge tank, radiator, mounting clips and hoses. Still need fan switch, aux fan (mine's missing) and thermostat. Oh and Water Wetter too.
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May 12, 2010 21:43
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I've posted about this before, but a few weeks ago I had my front control arms and all bushings and ball joints replaced. My car felt quite loose afterwards, so I took it to the dealer and they said my control arms were installed correctly, my wheel bearings were fine, but I had three bent rims. My steering continues to feel incredibly loose. I've noticed some play in my wheel. I took a video of it hoping to show it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IapjRGsAvyE thoughts?
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May 13, 2010 00:39
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BraveUlysses posted:Fcp Groton gets away with such low prices because the quality is lower than OEM brands. But will it make a big difference in a fan blade? I just don't want the fan to grenade right now.
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May 13, 2010 00:44
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CornHolio posted:I've posted about this before, but a few weeks ago I had my front control arms and all bushings and ball joints replaced. Try getting a friend to wobble the wheel while you try to trace the wobble through the various components attached to the wheel. If you get beneath the car, you should be able to feel it with your hands, and possibly see it. Feel the control arm(s), steering rods, etc. I was about to say steering box, but it looks like your car has rack and pinion steering... still, it could be the toothed rack itself that's busted. I just can't tell from the video, but it should be fairly easy to determine where the slack is if you feel the various components yourself while a friend wobbles the wheel, just a tiny bit. Also try the other way around - have the friend wobble the steering wheel while you trace the knocking sound.
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May 13, 2010 01:11
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Imperador do Brasil posted:But will it make a big difference in a fan blade? I just don't want the fan to grenade right now. OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 02:59 on May 13, 2010 |
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May 13, 2010 02:08
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CornHolio posted:I've posted about this before, but a few weeks ago I had my front control arms and all bushings and ball joints replaced. Tie rods bad? There's a ball joint in those.
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May 13, 2010 15:29
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fartingfool posted:Tie rods bad? There's a ball joint in those. It's possible, but I replace the entire tie rod assemblies last spring. Lemfoerders, too. They've probably got about 24,000 miles on them. I plan on getting back under there if it ever stops raining, but is there a chance my steering rack is going bad?
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May 13, 2010 16:14
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Had the car six months now. Finally launched it for the first time yesterday. I was quite impressed; tiny bit of initial wheelspin and a very very slight wiggle from the back and off it went, no drama at all. For a car without an LSD it took off very well.
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May 13, 2010 17:17
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For those of you looking for parts for E30's and other older cars, Blunt of BluntTech is your man. He's on R3VLimited as Blunt if you ever have any issues. He also sells E46 parts and H&R suspension for all bimmers, according to his site. From the way he acts, I'll bet he's a goon, too... Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 20:07 on May 14, 2010 |
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May 13, 2010 20:37
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CornHolio posted:It's possible, but I replace the entire tie rod assemblies last spring. Lemfoerders, too. They've probably got about 24,000 miles on them. It all depends. If the gears are worn badly enough it's possible, but that seems like a ridiculous amount of wobble for a steering rack that went out. Has it been leaking at all? I'd expect the seals to go before the worm gears. When you replaced everything, are you sure everything is tightened down properly? What you need to do is track down everything that moves when you do that.
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May 13, 2010 23:42
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This is going to seem like the dumbest question on earth but I cannot find a certain parts website. It was a white background and it sold mainly aftermarket parts. Had lots of wheel choices, DiCE iPod kits, carbon fiber pieces, etc. It's not BavAuto and I just can't remember. Anyone have any idea what I'm talking about? I know it's a vague question. edit: Okay, I guess I had to Google better. EuropeanAutoSource.com is the site apparently. I was searching for DiCE adapters and not CSL wheels.
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May 14, 2010 20:24
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while I was doing my brakes I found this little issue:  I have looked on the internets a bit and have not found a stock spring (to hand to my mechanic to install) ... anyone know a place? edit: oh yeah, it is a 2003 325i ... I am not interested in lowering the car, I am only seeing lowering kits on there EvilMoFo fucked around with this message at 03:13 on May 15, 2010 |
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May 15, 2010 01:54
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not sure what car you have, but Bavarian Autosport has a full set of springs with their name on it for cheap. Cheaper than OEM I'm sure.
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May 15, 2010 02:19
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I'm looking at a 1991 325i convertible on craigslist right now. The owner said in the listing that "It runs well" and "the car is in good condition" but said "it is a project car" in another line, so I'm a bit nervous about what I'm in for. I'm thinking that he just means that it is a project like any thirty year old car is, but you never know. He didn't list the mileage or whether it is a manual/auto, but I sent him an email asking about those and the "project car" statement. Anything I should look out for? I read somewhere that if it has an automatic transmission, it'll explode at some point no matter what I do. One really awesome thing, though, he said that a hard top was included with the car, so that's pretty cool. Edit: He says that "project car" means minor things not working, he doesn't know the mileage because the counter stopped working, but claims it's around 40k, and it has an automatic transmission. With the hard top, he wants $4500. Is it even close to worth it? The Aftershave fucked around with this message at 17:20 on May 15, 2010 |
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May 15, 2010 04:25
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So I did something probably really dumb. At my mechanics is a Silver 98 528i with a blown engine. We are putting in another dead 528i's motor. Seems the old owner couldn't swing the cash to get her running again. Luckily due to the type of people who drive them around here and the rainy weather their is a extensive supply of BMWs of all types that having wrapped themselves around various immovable objects, provide a pretty much inexhaustible supply of parts to choose from. 200,000 km on the chassis, which is mint btw. The motor sounds awesome. The previous owner is some Ed Hardy wearing guy who left about 20lbs of whey powder and Jay Z cd's in the changer in the trunk. But man at least he was a neat freak. The interior is flawless except for a little wear on the drivers seat. Otherwise it is a time warp back to 98. Even the paint(other than a bumper scuff) is flawless. Oh and I got rims and winter tires as well thrown in from the old owner. I am picking it up monday. and so it begins........
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May 15, 2010 06:11
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Just finished my brakes yesterday, all brand new pads and rotors. Finally have the last dash warning light off  I have a kind of question though, I have a 99 Mazda 626 in marginal condition with a little bit of body damage. I was going to drive it but it sheared the crankshaft pulley and it's been parked about nine months since then. The car is in decent shape otherwise and the interior is almost immaculate, it's completely optioned out with the glass moonroof, etc. The car probably needs about a grand worth of work to be a reliable driver again. Not something I'm interested in but the car has lots of good parts on it, including a KLDE motor. It has a clear title. I have to get rid of it ASAP, probably this week. I was thinking of calling around to salvage yards and trying to see if I could get one to trade me a set of seats for the E36 in exchange for the car. Do salvage yards negotiate these kinds of trades? I figure the car is worth at minimum $800 or so, which would easily cover the cost of used seats, so it seems like it would be a good deal for a salvage yard. Thoughts?
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May 15, 2010 19:08
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Terrible idea. Fix the problem and sell it for much more. E36 seats are nothing special or rare, and certainly not worth a mostly working car.
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May 15, 2010 20:27
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BraveUlysses posted:Terrible idea. Maybe he's looking for Vader seats? e: boioioing 
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May 15, 2010 21:48
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I don't have the money to fix it right now and it has to be gone this week due to some problems with my neighbors. I paid $500 for it, and a good set of sets are worth more than that (all three).
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May 15, 2010 23:25
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Are E30's significantly more or less breakdown prone than E36's by nature?
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May 15, 2010 23:55
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Jagtpanther posted:Are E30's significantly more or less breakdown prone than E36's by nature? E30s are older, so they got time working against them more.
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May 16, 2010 00:06
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E30 guy was unavailable, instead I drove around in an E36 323i - it was clean as hell and sounded/pulled great, but had already done 170,000mi and really, that's double what I'm thinking is a good target for mileage - especially for £1290. Thankfully I can be covered for anything from an E30 318 to an E36 323 insurance-wise, so it's now a matter of finding a good one! Hurray! Is it bad then when I'm looking for E36's I'm obsessing over getting one with an I6? Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 18:43 on May 16, 2010 |
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May 16, 2010 18:35
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I drove a 318 before I bought my 325. Get the I6, it's a must imo. The only drawback with the I6 is fuel mileage. 323 will help with that. Also the battery sits in the trunk on I6 models.
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May 16, 2010 20:23
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