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I hope this is the right place to ask this, if not, i'll gladly retract it. I am thinking of wall mounting a tv, but the best spot for it is in kind of weird place. Where the roof angles down and meets the wall there is a built in bookshelf. Here are some pics...    I'd like to mount a bracket, say, maybe, this one, inside the shelving so the tv is more or less flush against the outside edge of the shelving. I'd assume there is a stud about where I marked a blue x in that third pic, but I don't want to gamble my $1000 tv on a hunch, and I am a little unsure about my stud finder and what else might be there. There doesn't seem to be anything past rear of the shelving, otherwise I'd try there first. What do you guys think the studs look like around there? Would it even be safe to mount something weighing maybe 50lbs in to the wide face of a 2x4? Anything else to consider? Any and all input would be greatly appreciated. deoju fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Mar 20, 2012 |
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Mar 20, 2012 06:19
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deoju posted:I'd like to mount a bracket, say, maybe, this one, inside the shelving so the tv is more or less flush against the outside edge of the shelving. I'd assume there is a stud about where I marked a blue x in that third pic, but I don't want to gamble my $1000 tv on a hunch, and I am a little unsure about my stud finder and what else might be there. There doesn't seem to be anything past rear of the shelving, otherwise I'd try there first. What do you guys think the studs look like around there? Would it even be safe to mount something weighing maybe 50lbs in to the wide face of a 2x4? I'm not sure you can assume there is a stud there - it depends how they mounted it. However, the good news is that you will probably be fine with ~50 lbs since it looks like the side of that shelf goes all the way down, and it is supporting however much weight in books you have on those shelves. To check if you have a stud, you could try a stud finder first, but unless it is an ultrasonic one, it probably won't work. However, since you know the height of your bracket placement and will know where it will sit on the shelf, you can easily test for studs with a long, skinny drill bit. Just go through the shelf and see if you hit a stud or not. Even without a stud, though, you'll probably be okay with toggle bolts for just 50 pounds.
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Mar 20, 2012 13:46
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Are your shelves completely lined with wood on the inside? The extra density can screw with cheaper studfinders. So can plaster. That being said, I doubt that there would be a stud on the interior sides of your shelves except for along the edges. Knee walls are just like regular walls and require studs every 16" to 24", so if your shelves aren't at least 16" deep, don't expect to find a stud in the middle of the span. Your best bet would be to find the stud closer to the face. And you got the right idea: due to the way a stud would be mounted in a corner like that, you would be screwing into the wide face of the stud. As long as you use some more substantial screws to attach it to the wall you should be golden. Monoprice sells great stuff, the included fasteners should be fine.
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Mar 20, 2012 14:06
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deoju posted:Anything else to consider? grover fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Mar 20, 2012 |
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Mar 20, 2012 18:42
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This feels like the correct place to ask this regarding my hot water tank. I hope this makes sense... I had a new hot water tank put in my house about 7-8 years ago. What I've noticed lately is that if I'm filling my bath tub I'll set the water temperature to the way I like it (super hot) but after maybe a minute of running, the water will be cold and I need to keep adjusting the cold water flow to be less and less until it's pretty much just 100% hot water running out of the tap. When I turn down the cold water flow the hot water is still scorching hot though, so it's not a problem where the hot water isn't as hot as normal. Any idea what could be causing this?
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Mar 21, 2012 03:24
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InternetJunky posted:This feels like the correct place to ask this regarding my hot water tank. I think faucets usually mix based on pressure. My guess is somehow, water pressure is being lost somewhere along your hot water pipe system, possibly in the tank. The fact that it mixes fine for the first minute is interesting... possibly your hot water tank intake is messed up, causing it to not refill somehow, which means your hot water pressure is fine at first but then gets weak? Someone here probably knows lots more than me, but that's my first take on it.
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Mar 21, 2012 17:16
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Is there any chance the roots of a shrub could grow deep enough into the ground to damage a sewer line? I have a Texas Sage and a Winter's Pride shrub that are both just about above where the sewer line is most likely buried, and they've only been there about a year, so digging them up wouldn't be too hard but I don't want to go through the trouble if it's safe to leave them there.
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Mar 22, 2012 03:53
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InternetJunky posted:This feels like the correct place to ask this regarding my hot water tank. Let's skip the new hot water heater for a minute. Do you have another tub or a separate shower in that tub? If so, what happens with those?
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Mar 22, 2012 04:24
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Bean Bandit posted:Is there any chance the roots of a shrub could grow deep enough into the ground to damage a sewer line? I have a Texas Sage and a Winter's Pride shrub that are both just about above where the sewer line is most likely buried, and they've only been there about a year, so digging them up wouldn't be too hard but I don't want to go through the trouble if it's safe to leave them there. Yes. We had one at a rental house in Augusta that kept plugging up the line and having to be reamed out about every 6 months till I finally ripped it up.
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Mar 22, 2012 04:33
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GD_American posted:Yes. We had one at a rental house in Augusta that kept plugging up the line and having to be reamed out about every 6 months till I finally ripped it up.
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Mar 22, 2012 05:22
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I just noticed my MacBook power supply cord is torn. It doesn't work anymore when it's bent at the tear, but when I 'straighten' it, power seems to flow just fine. I was going to buy a new laptop as soon as the next MacBook update was out anyway, so I don't feel like buying a new power cord for what might be all of two months at the most. Think I could just put some electical tape on it without it becoming a fire hazard? Two or three of the little wires under the tear seem snapped, but most of it is in good condition. (Apologies for the huge image, I can't seem to replace the attachment with a smaller one.) Jolan fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Mar 22, 2012 |
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Mar 22, 2012 13:54
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 Holy poo poo, that's burnt, probably from arcing. Please, stop using it immediately.
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Mar 22, 2012 14:01
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Splizwarf posted:
Doesn't look burnt (still all silvery), probably just a bad picture. I'll see if I can snap another one. But just to be safe, I unplugged it when I noticed the tear, so no worries.  Edit: phone camera sucks at macro shots, so it's not too clear:   (The dirty streaks on the white are just wear and tear, the cord's nearly 5 years old.) Jolan fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Mar 22, 2012 |
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Mar 22, 2012 14:46
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Yeah FYI those cords get really dirty FAST. I can't tell you how to fix it but I can tell you how to avoid this in the future: wind your cord the right loving way
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Mar 22, 2012 15:06
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The white plastic is what looks burnt brown at the edges of the tear. However, if your power goes on and off when you move it, it doesn't matter what the color is, I guarantee you it's arcing (and probably getting hot from making a marginal-contact but full-power connection). v vOnce a wire is broken (one of yours is), electrical tape will hide the problem but won't fix it. Personally, I think that kind of fix is worse than no fix because other people will look at it and say "oh this is fixed, it's okay to use for whatever"; if it gets hot enough, the tape will just burn. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Mar 22, 2012 |
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Mar 22, 2012 15:14
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jackyl posted:Let's skip the new hot water heater for a minute. Do you have another tub or a separate shower in that tub? If so, what happens with those?
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Mar 22, 2012 17:44
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Splizwarf posted:The white plastic is what looks burnt brown at the edges of the tear. However, if your power goes on and off when you move it, it doesn't matter what the color is, I guarantee you it's arcing (and probably getting hot from making a marginal-contact but full-power connection). v
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Mar 22, 2012 18:08
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InternetJunky posted:The shower in the tub comes through the same lines as the tub so I just did a test with the sink in the bathroom instead. After running the tap for minutes the water temp didn't change significantly, so the problem seems to be just with the tub/shower. Yeah, that's what I expected. So it is one of a couple of things. The cheapest and easiest thing to do is to replace the cartridge, and see if that does it. Here's an example of how to do it for Moen faucets: http://bungalow23.com/2009/02/25/how-to-replace-a-moen-shower-valve-cartridge/ Other brands are similar, but will attach slightly differently, etc. Not a major replacement process difference, though. It isn't a hard replacement at all, so don't worry about doing it yourself. These are relatively cheap too, and you can get them at big box stores.
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Mar 22, 2012 19:12
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grover posted:Yes, this. If you want to continue to use it, you'd have to cut out the damaged piece of cable and re-solder it. There are a number of how-tos online. Looks like it's a pretty simple job. Well, I can't solder and I don't know who could, so my laptop's functionally bricked until I throw away a lot of money.  Edit: wait, a follow-up question: a MacBook Pro comes with an 85W power supply/cord, a MacBook Air with a 45W one. Could you use the 85W cord on a MacBook Air (that's supposed to get 45W) or would that be bad? Jolan fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Mar 23, 2012 |
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Mar 23, 2012 01:05
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Devices only draw what they need, you should be fine if the plug fits and Apple didn't do any special  fuckery. I assume the Air has a fatter pipe because it's meant to charge extra quickly?
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Mar 23, 2012 03:32
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Splizwarf posted:Devices only draw what they need, you should be fine if the plug fits and Apple didn't do any special Guess so. I'll try to drop by my local reseller to ask about it, if the 85W one works perfectly on an MBA it won't be wasted money.
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Mar 23, 2012 10:00
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I want to spraypaint some lovely old light fixtures that are made of metal. I have the right spraypaint, I know that. I assume I have to sand them? What should I sand them with? Not sure what they're made out of; they're a washed-out yellowy-browny-white color. Brass looks closest to me.
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Mar 23, 2012 19:39
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Karma Guard posted:I assume I have to sand them? What? No. Wash them with a nice household cleaner that doesn't chew through metal or some warm, soapy water. Dry them off and handle them with the edge of a towel until you finish painting so you don't slob your greasy fingers all over their clean metal. Paint. Wish you hadn't. Remember to open the window as the fumes overcome you and you fall and whack your shins stumbling over to window and then wait a few hours for the paint to dry. Ta-da, painted metal fixtures!
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Mar 23, 2012 19:49
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CuddleChunks posted:What? No. I had to sand everything else before painting it!  I don't know how spraypaint works.But thanks!
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Mar 23, 2012 19:57
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Karma Guard posted:I had to sand everything else before painting it! No problem. You want a nice smooth surface for the paint to stick to which is why you'd sand down your wood before spraying. Metal already is a nice smooth surface, you just need to clean off any oils or grease that would inhibit paint sticking. Serious protip - do your spraypainting outside on a nice warm day because that stuff is *vile*. You don't want to try this inside a house.
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Mar 23, 2012 20:51
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I may have brought this up before but I couldn't find it... I'm ready now to rip out the carpet in my family room and replace it with laminate flooring. But my question is, the family room used to be a garage with a concrete slab. In the summer, the sun beats down on the driveway and heats up the concrete which in turns make the family room floor/room hot. I want to put down rigid insulation before flooring. Is there a structural insulation or is the blue stuff okay? I don't want to raise the floor too much and cause issues.
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Mar 24, 2012 03:03
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wormil posted:I may have brought this up before but I couldn't find it... I'm ready now to rip out the carpet in my family room and replace it with laminate flooring. But my question is, the family room used to be a garage with a concrete slab. In the summer, the sun beats down on the driveway and heats up the concrete which in turns make the family room floor/room hot. I want to put down rigid insulation before flooring. Is there a structural insulation or is the blue stuff okay? I don't want to raise the floor too much and cause issues. Just buy the 3 in 1 underlayment and you will be fine. The 3rd is a sound barrier, which you don't need, but sound barrier is insulation, which you do need.
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Mar 24, 2012 03:21
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jackyl posted:Just buy the 3 in 1 underlayment and you will be fine. The 3rd is a sound barrier, which you don't need, but sound barrier is insulation, which you do need. Well I was hoping for more insulation, maybe an 1". I found a post on a DIY forum where the laminate floor manufacturer recommended 3/8" OSB over the rigid foam so I'll look into that. My biggest concern is that there is a bathroom attached and I can't pick up the tub so I may have to either go with thinner insulation than I want or jury rig some sort of trim next to the tub. Also have to figure out the toilet.
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Mar 24, 2012 03:41
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CuddleChunks posted:No problem. You want a nice smooth surface for the paint to stick to which is why you'd sand down your wood before spraying. Metal already is a nice smooth surface, you just need to clean off any oils or grease that would inhibit paint sticking.
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Mar 24, 2012 05:51
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The proper way to do it would be to wet-sand the metal, then use an etching primer, and then put your final finish on top of that, but if you're just using rattle-cans it's gonna look like rear end anyway, so don't bother doing prep.
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Mar 24, 2012 06:00
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Super-basic question that the internet has been giving me mixed answer about: I just reorganized my room. Because of which outlets are grounded and which aren't, I had to move my bed right next to an outlet that a power strip is plugged into. The outlet and the plug part of the strip are only about 1" away from the head of the bed, and might be covered by pillows depending on how I am sleeping. The actual power strip is a good foot away from the bed. Is this a fire hazard? Can the outlet and plug potentially overheat and ignite my bed, or is it only a danger with the power strip? (Apartment is old, but in two years there have been no signs of unreliable wiring, if that makes a difference.) Thanks.
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Mar 24, 2012 18:49
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Potentially, yes. Highly unlikely, though. Pillows alone aren't going to be an issue; damage to the cord, or the plug coming partially undone and something shorting it out, with sparks igniting anything nearby, are the real danger. A surge suppressor with a thin-line plug and integrated overload protection (10A is common) would reduce the risks even more.
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Mar 24, 2012 19:51
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I searched around quickly and didn't find anything quick, so I apologize if this has been asked: Can anyone recommend a deck design software package for personal use? My dad asked me to look into this, so bonus points if it's intuitive and cheap.
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Mar 25, 2012 14:14
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Replacing the dryer vent, as the old one was in horrendous shape. The new one I bought is kind of bigger, and I'm not quite sure how to securely attach it. Should I use some kind of foam sealant? Here's how it looks without the new vent in place:  And while I can stick the new vent on top of it, it's not secure at all and can easily fall off (for what it's worth, the old one also had this problem):  
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Mar 25, 2012 18:34
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Use blue masonry screws. The pack of screws comes with a masonry it. Drill the holes at low speed and screw it in. Once instlled, caulk around the perimeter with either exterior silicone caulk or a masonry caulk.
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Mar 25, 2012 21:01
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Sounds easy enough, thanks. Should I strip away that orange foam sealant that's already there first? Or just leave it and work around it?
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Mar 25, 2012 22:03
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I'd chisel the extended bit off the house to make it look a little more proper, then do what PainterofCrap said and put some caulk on the edge and use masonry screws to secure it to the side of the house. If you're not comfortable using masonry screws or under the mound of crap it isn't cement, you can always get wall anchors and the proper bit to mount it. Personally, I'd leave the old vent duct in place, get some cement and fill the wall flat first so it wouldn't look as odd then before it dries, remove the dryer vent so there's a perfect hole for your new installation then use masonry screws and caulk to secure the new vent in place. edit: ^^^^ yes, remove the foam. I couldn't tell if it was foam or old cement that had something rusty dripping on it from the photo.
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Mar 25, 2012 22:07
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I want to install a security door on my house...the kind that installs on the existing door frame, something like this. The only problem is that the doorbell is on the existing frame and would be covered up by the security door frame. I'd like to move the door bell. Not too much, just a bit to the right. How hard would this be and how would I do it? Edit: Here's a picture 
nwin fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Mar 25, 2012 |
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Mar 25, 2012 22:48
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nwin posted:I'd like to move the door bell. Not too much, just a bit to the right. How hard would this be and how would I do it?
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Mar 25, 2012 23:28
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Anyone have experience with building boats? I wouldn't mind having someone to bounce questions off when I start this process.
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Mar 25, 2012 23:54
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