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jadebullet
Mar 25, 2011


MY LIFE FOR YOU!
Does simple green not work for stripping Army Painter primer or something?

I screwed up my primer layer due to a bad can and decided to give simple green a try for once. I soaked the minis for a day and took a toothbrush to them but no effect.

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Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

jadebullet posted:

Does simple green not work for stripping Army Painter primer or something?

I screwed up my primer layer due to a bad can and decided to give simple green a try for once. I soaked the minis for a day and took a toothbrush to them but no effect.

Someone was posting a saga about the unstrippable bad Army Painter primer. I think the minis ended up having multiple soaks and vigorous brushing over few weeks.

I forgot if they used 99 isopropyl or simple green.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Sounds like solid primer, if you don't mess up applying it.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

army painter primer sucks so loving bad. between getting a bum can of black that was too viscous and clogged nozzles regardless of agitation or heat/pressure, the dogshit white that deposits as like a dusty particulate, and a can that just straight up came with no nozzle (i had spares and the can was fine otherwise), they're freaking dead to me

Slyphic
Oct 12, 2021

All we do is walk around believing birds!

jadebullet posted:

Does simple green not work for stripping Army Painter primer or something?

I screwed up my primer layer due to a bad can and decided to give simple green a try for once. I soaked the minis for a day and took a toothbrush to them but no effect.
Plastic dissolving primers, like the one I got on discount that had the Flames of War logo on it, are incredibly hard to clean. Mine came out frothy, or didn't level properly or something, but they looked terrible, all the detail washed out in goop. I spent two weeks trying different chemicals, temperatures, scrubbing, sonic cleaners, heat and cold and eventually got like 30% off and decided to pivot and just roll with the texture and make the models gritty.


they wound up perfectly table usable.

jadebullet
Mar 25, 2011


MY LIFE FOR YOU!
Yeah, I got a can of their black and it was fine. Primed a bunch of models until the can died.

Grabbed the second can out of the hot water bath, test sprayed, which looked fine, then proceeded to cover an entire squad in a fuzzy grainy mess of bad primer.

I've since switched to just priming gold with retributor armor instead but wanted to fix these guys.

Ominous Jazz
Jun 15, 2011

Big D is chillin' over here
Wasteland style

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Are you in the US? If you are I can send you a couple dozen 3d printed minis for you to practice on. I am just absolutely swimming in them. PM if you want! They would be good quality minis, just ones I have extras of.

this was so beyond what i was expecting. this was super kind of you, thank you so much. i will update this thread with what i do!!!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Lol

Nancy
Nov 23, 2005



Young Orc
I only use Tamiya Surface Primer L Grey and it's so nice. The cans are smaller but anecdotally it feels like they've lasted longer than the bigger GW cans (though I suspect the ones I bought might've been used by the seller already).

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/finishing/surface-primer-l-gray/#description

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Question for someone else:

They have a black board game piece, they are wanting to paint it, but they want it to have the contrast that the other, non-black, board game pieces would have when washed.

They were thinking some sort of silver in the recesses.

I suggested priming silver and drybrush black, but they said it would not be wash like. I also suggested pinwash a silver, if possible.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





GreenBuckanneer posted:

Question for someone else:

They have a black board game piece, they are wanting to paint it, but they want it to have the contrast that the other, non-black, board game pieces would have when washed.

They were thinking some sort of silver in the recesses.

I suggested priming silver and drybrush black, but they said it would not be wash like. I also suggested pinwash a silver, if possible.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

I think Army Painter has metallic contrast paint, maybe that might work?

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007
Over black, im not sure that would work. A black figure with lighter recesses is a weird concept. Post pictures if you can make it happen

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Question for someone else:

They have a black board game piece, they are wanting to paint it, but they want it to have the contrast that the other, non-black, board game pieces would have when washed.

They were thinking some sort of silver in the recesses.

I suggested priming silver and drybrush black, but they said it would not be wash like. I also suggested pinwash a silver, if possible.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Oil wash. May require a couple applications, but it will get the job done. For fun, I’m going to try this because it sounds cool.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Beffer posted:

Over black, im not sure that would work. A black figure with lighter recesses is a weird concept. Post pictures if you can make it happen

I see you haven't seen the colour inverted Pink Horror.

https://twitter.com/Sughammer/status/1386717668754010115

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
Paint dark gray, black oil wash

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Toebone posted:

Paint dark gray, black oil wash

they want the recesses to "be silvery" though

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

GreenBuckanneer posted:

they want the recesses to "be silvery" though

Spray silver or chrome and drybrush black.

ChubbyChecker
Mar 25, 2018

GreenBuckanneer posted:

they want the recesses to "be silvery" though

silver basecoat and black drybrush?

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Black undercoat, brush-paint silver, the wipen off the raised surfaces with a paper towel while the paint is still wet

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

ChubbyChecker posted:

silver basecoat and black drybrush?

that's what I said, but they wanted it to look like....i guess an inverted wash i suppose.

i also suggested turbodork paints over black but they didn't seem to be too interested

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

If its a gamepiece rather than a figure (I'm thinking something like a pawn) maybe wash with white? You'd need to neaten up the black afterwards but it would look striking/high contrast. A white oil wash would be what I would try, but regular acrylic would probably work too, just more neatening up afterwards. Most of the metallic paints I've used wouldnt thin down to a wash consistancy while keeping any of the metallic effect, theres just a limit to how much the lil sparkly bits can be spread out before it doesnt look shiny any more.

ETA you can of course do this with a figure, but I'm just thinking that with a geometric game piece you dont need to even think about realism, just whats eye catching.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

SiKboy posted:

If its a gamepiece rather than a figure (I'm thinking something like a pawn) maybe wash with white? You'd need to neaten up the black afterwards but it would look striking/high contrast. A white oil wash would be what I would try, but regular acrylic would probably work too, just more neatening up afterwards. Most of the metallic paints I've used wouldnt thin down to a wash consistancy while keeping any of the metallic effect, theres just a limit to how much the lil sparkly bits can be spread out before it doesnt look shiny any more.

ETA you can of course do this with a figure, but I'm just thinking that with a geometric game piece you dont need to even think about realism, just whats eye catching.



this is the game piece specifically

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Just paint it metal then drybrush black then drybrush dark grey then grey. Ez

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
why is his head so small?!

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

My Spirit Otter posted:

why is his head so small?!

He skipped noggin day.

rantmo
Jul 30, 2003

A smile better suits a hero



Looks like a Goon from Popeye.

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007
You could spray silver then overspray black from above. A reverse zenithal sort of

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008


Grimey Drawer
I'm getting in on the small scale stuff. This is very different from what I usually paint, and I'm hoping that a bunch of weathering and snow will carry me to something that I don't hate.
WIP on a 6mm diorama.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Funzo posted:

Another option if you want to make it leather but not like an Old West duster is to mimic a 17th Century buff coat. Leather but more, well, buff colored.

https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/images/hb/hb_15.113.1-5,29.158.885.jpg

I don't know if posting images from other sites is still frowned on, so you get a link instead.

If I ever break down and do Cadians, it will be English Civil War cadians, those colors look great. Hell, I have a ton of random cadians from stuff I converted, might just paint one as a test.

Major Spag
Nov 4, 2012
Xposting from the still dead thread

Major Spag posted:

More bonks to the squad: BA IXth Legion Inductii Despoilers





Here's the whole squad together


Still working on adjusting the lighting and/or the white balance on my new phone.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I think Army Painter has metallic contrast paint, maybe that might work?

it doesn't end up working much like contrast paint at all

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


GreenBuckanneer posted:

that's what I said, but they wanted it to look like....i guess an inverted wash i suppose.

i also suggested turbodork paints over black but they didn't seem to be too interested

It's perfectly valid to do black and then oil wash with white or silver, but I had better results by painting white(or fluorescent or metal) and then applying black oil via a stiff makeup sponge pressed flat-side to the mini. It takes forever to dry, as oils do, but it does work as long as you don't press too hard.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Cease to Hope posted:

it doesn't end up working much like contrast paint at all

What does it do or work like then? I have not had a chance to use them.

Prawned
Oct 25, 2010

I have an army painter skeleton bone primer spraycan, and I thought I was just using it wrong somehow cause it mostly gives dusty/grainy results, whereas the normal hardware store stuff and citadel sprays haven't given me any issues.

Good to know I should just throw it out rather than committing to bumpy miniatures.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Prawned posted:

I have an army painter skeleton bone primer spraycan, and I thought I was just using it wrong somehow cause it mostly gives dusty/grainy results, whereas the normal hardware store stuff and citadel sprays haven't given me any issues.

Good to know I should just throw it out rather than committing to bumpy miniatures.

yeah i get this 90% of the time with ap white. loving hate it

Engorged Pedipalps
Apr 21, 2023

IncredibleIgloo posted:

What does it do or work like then? I have not had a chance to use them.

I've heard it's just a runny metallic

It's very easy to get color depth in metallics just by dry brushing over a dark color (sepia for rusty metal, dark blue for steel, black for iron) and then hitting it with a wash

You don't really need contrast paints to cheat there the technique is easy and fast by itself

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Prawned posted:

I have an army painter skeleton bone primer spraycan, and I thought I was just using it wrong somehow cause it mostly gives dusty/grainy results, whereas the normal hardware store stuff and citadel sprays haven't given me any issues.

Good to know I should just throw it out rather than committing to bumpy miniatures.

Have they changed the formula or something lately? I used to use Skeleton Bone all the time and had no problems with it, but that was years ago now.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Gravitas Shortfall posted:

Have they changed the formula or something lately? I used to use Skeleton Bone all the time and had no problems with it, but that was years ago now.

They had a batch of bad cans that they did a recall on. When I used their grey primer I liked it.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Army Painter is the absolute worst spray paint I've ever used in my life; to the point that I call it "Army Ruiner" huuuuuuurrrr. Their hobby tools and grass and all that stuff is fine and I use it all the time, but F those rattlecans. Wraithbone is my absolute go-to for white, then Rustoleum 2x for black.


Engorged Pedipalps posted:

I've heard it's just a runny metallic

It's very easy to get color depth in metallics just by dry brushing over a dark color (sepia for rusty metal, dark blue for steel, black for iron) and then hitting it with a wash

You don't really need contrast paints to cheat there the technique is easy and fast by itself

This x1000. If I'm not mistaken here, the deal with metallics as I learned is that since acrylic paint is just some sort of pigment ground up and suspended in a medium that metallic paint is essentially very small glitter in the same medium. Since the flakes dry at various angles, they're reflecting what's beneath the paint itself which is why you want to go with a complimentary basecoat.

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BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

EdsTeioh posted:

Army Painter is the absolute worst spray paint I've ever used in my life; to the point that I call it "Army Ruiner" huuuuuuurrrr. Their hobby tools and grass and all that stuff is fine and I use it all the time, but F those rattlecans. Wraithbone is my absolute go-to for white, then Rustoleum 2x for black.

This x1000. If I'm not mistaken here, the deal with metallics as I learned is that since acrylic paint is just some sort of pigment ground up and suspended in a medium that metallic paint is essentially very small glitter in the same medium. Since the flakes dry at various angles, they're reflecting what's beneath the paint itself which is why you want to go with a complimentary basecoat.

I got Army Painter bone spray (Skeleton Bone?) and yeah, kinda green and not great, definitely disappointing if you're after a counterpart to Wraith Bone. Colour Forge's one (Wight Bone?) is nice though, about 1/5 more than a citadel spray and performs well, good colour. I'll be field reporting on Vallejo Mecha Primer in a few days.

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