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Anyone have a current recommendation for a board with the following highly specific requirements? - LGA1151 (for an i5-660k) - 5.1 surround capability - micro ATX - Z170 preferred, do I really need it though? I'm still confused on that. Mini ITX is a possibility, but I'm concerned about my ability to fit a graphics card, an SSD, and a platter hdd into the case with it, in addition to a DVD burner. Was looking at http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012N6F0TO/ but the reviews put me off. There's also http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012NH1MCM but it's expensive and I imagine I can get a better price point. For reference, here's my current build, courtesy of PC Part Picker PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.49 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($209.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($61.00 @ Amazon) Case: Rosewill SRM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($21.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.10 @ Amazon) Total: $400.57 Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-18 11:01 EDT-0400 (This will eventually have a GTX 1080 dropped into it, drives are from my old PC (SSD and 4TB platter drive).) Deviant fucked around with this message at 16:04 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 15:48
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Deviant posted:Anyone have a current recommendation for a board with the following highly specific requirements? If you are getting a 6600k you want a Z170 mobo, the whole point of that CPU is overclocking which is what a Z170 mobo gets you. As for a good mobo to get I like the ASRock Z170M Extreme4, ASRock's Extreme line has always been good and has plenty of features for the price.
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May 18, 2016 16:04
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:If you are getting a 6600k you want a Z170 mobo, the whole point of that CPU is overclocking which is what a Z170 mobo gets you. As for a good mobo to get I like the ASRock Z170M Extreme4, ASRock's Extreme line has always been good and has plenty of features for the price. Well, I'm not married to the idea of overclocking, but it'd be nice to have an avenue for some extra oomph down the line after the warranties are long expired, and the K is only another $15 or so over the non K line. The Amazon reviews on this board scare me, but you say it's good? I'm seeing complaints about the microphone/audio system. Deviant fucked around with this message at 16:08 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 16:05
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Deviant posted:Well, I'm not married to the idea of overclocking, but it'd be nice to have an avenue for some extra oomph down the line after the warranties are long expired. The Amazon reviews on this board scare me, but you say it's good? I'm seeing complaints about the microphone/audio system. If you want to take that guy's word for it, go ahead.
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May 18, 2016 16:08
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dy. posted:One of the Amazon reviewers gave it two stars with only the text "Not enough chassis fans." Well, I can always return it to Amazon if it sucks. Oh, poo poo, is that CPU fan going to fit in that case? I don't want to have to drop to stock cooling to fit, which crushes the OC potential? Maybe something like http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cryorig-cpu-cooler-c7 Deviant fucked around with this message at 16:19 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 16:09
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Deviant posted:Well, I'm not married to the idea of overclocking, but it'd be nice to have an avenue for some extra oomph down the line after the warranties are long expired, and the K is only another $15 or so over the non K line. The Amazon reviews on this board scare me, but you say it's good? I'm seeing complaints about the microphone/audio system. Here, I redid your build for you: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99) Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($69.99 @ Amazon) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($45.88 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Amazon) Total: $330.84 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-18 11:21 EDT-0400 I added a better, smaller CPU cooler, it shows up on Amazon for that price for me but not on PCPartPicker for some reason. I also added faster RAM since that makes a real difference these days. I added a better case since the one you had is pretty crap, this one is much better and will make building the machine much easier. Lastly I changed out the PSU for one that has somewhat higher quality internals.
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May 18, 2016 16:24
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Here, I redid your build for you: I love everything about it and it sounds like we came to similar conclusions while I was writing this post.
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May 18, 2016 16:27
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Anybody notice any glaring problems with this list? PCPartPicker part list CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($112.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($53.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($155.99 @ Amazon) Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (Gunmetal/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz) Monitor: BenQ XL2420Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($324.11 @ Amazon) Mouse: Anker AK-98ANDS2368-BA Wired Laser Mouse Speakers: Logitech Z323 30W 2.1ch Speakers ($49.99 @ Best Buy) Other: GTX 1070 ($379.00) Other: HAVIT HV-KB366L ($69.59) Total: $1430.64 I already have a PSU sitting on the shelf that I only bought last year. I chose that motherboard because I'll need wifi and bluetooth on this one, and it was a few bucks cheaper to get a mobo that had wifi/bluetooth built in than get separate cards for each. I'm particularly concerned about how that SSD fits in the mobo and the case, since I think it plugs directly in without an SATA cable or anything. Also went with 16GB of RAM since that motherboard only has 2 slots, so if I got 2x4GB and decided to upgrade later I'd have to throw them away. Might as well start with more than I'll need. *edited to change mobo to H170 since I'm not overclocking and RAM to DDR4-2133 for same. Imagined fucked around with this message at 17:10 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 16:57
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Looking to help a coworker put together a computer for work but I've only really ever built gaming rigs. He works a lot in After Effects and Premiere as well as doing the 3D modelling for the rigs we put together at work. They're nothing too complicated but honestly I don't work in 3D at all so I don't really know what defines complicated or not. I work on TV commercials and usually they're just some smallish machine involving some pipes and plates with simple hydraulics/motors attached. For example, on the last shoot we built a stand with a post about 3 feet high that had spinning plate on top. Right now he works in Rhino3D but that isn't set in stone and hes still trying out some other stuff. He also does some set design work in some CAD program but again, its never anything too complicated. He doesn't have a budget really but based on the work we do it doesn't seem like he's going to need anything top of the line. I'm thinking about ~$1400? - US based. Suggestions for a full build would be cool but just telling me which components to focus on would help me out as I'm a bit out of the loop and I don't really know whats important for this type of work.
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May 18, 2016 17:40
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Imagined posted:Anybody notice any glaring problems with this list? If you are going to go with an mITX motherboard you might as well go with a smaller case, what PSU do you have? If I know what PSU do you have I can make sure it would fit in a smaller case and suggest some alternatives for you. The m.2 SSD plugs into the back of the motherboard and lies flat against it, so it does not create any problems as far as fitting goes.
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May 18, 2016 18:37
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:If you are going to go with an mITX motherboard you might as well go with a smaller case, what PSU do you have? If I know what PSU do you have I can make sure it would fit in a smaller case and suggest some alternatives for you. The m.2 SSD plugs into the back of the motherboard and lies flat against it, so it does not create any problems as far as fitting goes. I went with an mITX board simply because of price, but I'm not opposed to a smaller case if it will fit the monster GTX 1070 inside. I have a huge case on my PC (the new one will be for the wife) and its GTX 970 barely fit with not a millimeter to spare. The spare PSU I have is an EVGA 500 W1, but it was cheap and I'm not opposed to replacing it if there's something smaller/better at a reasonable price, so if you know of a nice mITX case that would fit the 1070, I'm all ears.
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May 18, 2016 18:43
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Imagined posted:I went with an mITX board simply because of price, but I'm not opposed to a smaller case if it will fit the monster GTX 1070 inside. I have a huge case on my PC (the new one will be for the wife) and its GTX 970 barely fit with not a millimeter to spare. A Silverstone SG13B will fit your PSU. I would recommend a 120mm closed loop CPU cooler though, since there is not much clearance between the CPU and PSU. You should also probably pick the one with the shortest tubes, too. The case will fit 1x2.5 and 1x3.5 or 3x2.5 drives, hopefully that's enough.
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May 18, 2016 18:52
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Imagined posted:I went with an mITX board simply because of price, but I'm not opposed to a smaller case if it will fit the monster GTX 1070 inside. I have a huge case on my PC (the new one will be for the wife) and its GTX 970 barely fit with not a millimeter to spare. Here you go: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($203.37 @ B&H) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($112.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($53.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($155.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($64.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Monitor: BenQ XL2420Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($324.11 @ Amazon) Mouse: Anker AK-98ANDS2368-BA Wired Laser Mouse Speakers: Logitech Z323 30W 2.1ch Speakers ($49.99 @ Best Buy) Other: GTX 1070 ($379.00) Other: HAVIT HV-KB366L ($69.59) Total: $1414.02 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-18 13:57 EDT-0400 I added the PSU you have already and a case that will fit everything, has good cooling, is very quiet and is much smaller & cheaper to boot. Don't worry about the 1070 fitting in this case, the Founders Edition 1070 is 10.5" long and this case will fit up to a 12.4" card, very few cards exceed 12" so you will easily be able to find a model of 1070 that will fit in this case. Also you can fit 4 SSDs/2 SSDs & 2 3.5" HDDs in this case so along with the m.2 SSD in the build you could add a ton of storage in the future if it is ever needed.
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May 18, 2016 19:02
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Cool! I really like that Fractal Design case (I did switch it to the window version though). The Silverstone SG13B looked a little intimidating.
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May 18, 2016 19:17
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I have a stupid question, and I'm not sure if it's thread-appropriate or not: is there any single piece of software that does a good job of monitoring resource consumption to help you figure out where your bottlenecks or part failures are? The values in Task Manager seem completely arbitrary. When I have issues and pull it up, it'll often report the 7.5gb of memory in use as 96% of what's available, even though I have 16gb installed (I multi-task a lot). Ditto for the CPU numbers
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May 18, 2016 19:29
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:I have a stupid question, and I'm not sure if it's thread-appropriate or not: is there any single piece of software that does a good job of monitoring resource consumption to help you figure out where your bottlenecks or part failures are? The values in Task Manager seem completely arbitrary. When I have issues and pull it up, it'll often report the 7.5gb of memory in use as 96% of what's available, even though I have 16gb installed (I multi-task a lot). Ditto for the CPU numbers Microsoft actually has their own free better version and yet they continue to use the current task manager as the default.
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May 18, 2016 20:01
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There's also a Resource Monitor (which has a link to it in the Task Manager, at least in Windows 10) already built in that will give you more detail. For memory make sure that you aren't comparing a value that includes cached memory with one that's just memory actually in use. For CPU I have no idea, since it seems like Microsoft consistently uses average-across-all-cores load values instead of 100% meaning "100% of a core" like it sometimes does in Unix-based OSes.
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May 18, 2016 20:23
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Well, with that budget pretty much anything is possible, let me whip up a spec for you: Thanks again for putting this list together. I've now got everything except the graphics card, and was going to assemble it in advance of that to confirm everything worked so it would be ready day-one once I get the 1080. So, for that. Do you (or does anyone else) have any advice on mounting the Nepton 240M? The Nano S manual suggests that I can go with either putting it along the front of the case (replacing a fan that came with the case) or along the top (which means running the case with just a grill at the top instead of a solid piece). I was planning to do the front so that the noise of the attached fans would be shielded by the sound proofing there, but I thought I'd ask. The Nano S seems to be a great little case, btw, so I appreciate that suggestion. From my messing around with it, it seems to pack a lot of capability into a cute little box.
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May 18, 2016 21:56
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Sir Kodiak posted:Thanks again for putting this list together. I've now got everything except the graphics card, and was going to assemble it in advance of that to confirm everything worked so it would be ready day-one once I get the 1080. If you want to run with the top closed you will need to mount the rad on the inside front of the case and the fans on the outside front, I have seen this done before with this case and it works fine since there is plenty of room under the front panel for the fans. The reason for mounting like this is because otherwise you won't have the needed length for the GTX 1080 with both radiator and fans mounted inside the case. If you put it on top you would set it as exhaust anyway so dust does not matter much but as you said noise becomes a concern. You could wait for aftermarket GTX 1080s to come out which will be faster and quieter anyway and buy one that is 10.2" or shorter which would allow you to fit both the rad and fans inside the case.
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May 18, 2016 22:22
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:If you want to run with the top closed you will need to mount the rad on the inside front of the case and the fans on the outside front, I have seen this done before with this case and it works fine since there is plenty of room under the front panel for the fans. The reason for mounting like this is because otherwise you won't have the needed length for the GTX 1080 with both radiator and fans mounted inside the case. If you put it on top you would set it as exhaust anyway so dust does not matter much but as you said noise becomes a concern. You could wait for aftermarket GTX 1080s to come out which will be faster and quieter anyway and buy one that is 10.2" or shorter which would allow you to fit both the rad and fans inside the case. Thanks! Is there a downside to the fans being on the outside of the case under the front panel? More noise? Because then I could just build it and not have to worry about how long a card I get.
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May 18, 2016 22:30
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What's the most processor+motherboard I can get for $400 hard cap including cooling?
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May 18, 2016 22:47
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I'm looking for somebody to talk me out of what I am thinking of doing. My requirements are pretty simple. I want something as cheap as possible, absolutely under $300 total. I need 1 TB of storage space, and something capable of running a headless linux distro - I use ubuntu because it is very widely supported, but whatever would work. I would be using it to run a handful of services, and direct streaming of videos (max 1080p) over a LAN. I'd prefer it to be relatively small and silent, and with lower power consumption. No gaming or actually using it as a "computer" beyond connecting with SSH for maintenance. The best I have found is a $130 NUC (this one), 4 gb of laptop RAM for $20, and a 1 TB laptop HDD for $80 or less. So the total would be $220. I certainly recognize that there's not much expandability to something like this but I can't come up with any reason to care. I'd be open to something different in the same price range if there was a better way to do this. For reference I currently only own a laptop and accomplish what I want by renting a dedicated server for $20 a month that streams to a firetv box at my house. I figured if I could get some kind of computer cheap enough, I could justify buying that if it had something like a 1 year payback period vs. the monthly cost of my server.
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May 18, 2016 23:43
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Sir Kodiak posted:Thanks! Is there a downside to the fans being on the outside of the case under the front panel? More noise? Because then I could just build it and not have to worry about how long a card I get. There would be more noise mounting them on the outside but we are talking very low amounts of noise in the first place because the cooler should be super quiet, it should only ramp up significantly when running benchmarks or stress testing applications, even when gaming it should be extremely quiet. The main downside is dust which will get trapped between the radiator and fans which sucks to clean since you need to take the fans and radiator off to do so. I prefer top mounting with the fans mounted above the rad sucking air upwards and out of the case, that way the front is filtered, any dust which makes it's way in sticks to the exposed part of the radiator for easy cleaning and GPU clearance becomes a non-issue. The downside is having the roof open letting out more sound and letting in possible spills. Ideally you mount it in the front and all inside so it is filtered and the top closed but then you need to wait for a shorter GPU. mango sentinel posted:What's the most processor+motherboard I can get for $400 hard cap including cooling? Probably something like this OCed: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($241.44 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.50) Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($120.98 @ Newegg) Total: $396.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-18 18:51 EDT-0400
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May 18, 2016 23:52
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Probably something like this OCed: Check what RAM you have first. If its a DDR4 stick with that stuff although you could probaly spend less on the mainboard and more on the cooler but thats just nitpicking. However if its a DDR3 you'll have to stick with the 1150 socket. In that case go for an i5 4690K and pick a mainboard whatever suits you best. Maybe you need a douzen USB slots or whatever - a decent example is the ASRock Z87 Extreme4. The cooler can stay the same as above If you have the choice between DDR3 and DDR4 go for DDR4.
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May 19, 2016 00:14
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:The main downside is dust which will get trapped between the radiator and fans which sucks to clean since you need to take the fans and radiator off to do so. I prefer top mounting with the fans mounted above the rad sucking air upwards and out of the case, that way the front is filtered, any dust which makes it's way in sticks to the exposed part of the radiator for easy cleaning and GPU clearance becomes a non-issue. The downside is having the roof open letting out more sound and letting in possible spills. Ideally you mount it in the front and all inside so it is filtered and the top closed but then you need to wait for a shorter GPU. Thanks again for the advice. I'll probably go with the top mount for ease of cleaning and see if the noise drives me crazy, in which case I'll remount. Normally I'd stretch this out more, but I'm trying to get some time with room-scale VR in my larger suburban apartment before I move into a smaller urban apartment to see if it's worth figuring out a furniture layout to keep supporting it. Sir Kodiak fucked around with this message at 00:34 on May 19, 2016 |
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May 19, 2016 00:28
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Zero. posted:Check what RAM you have first. poo poo, I didn't realize socket 1151 boards don't work with DDR3, which I have. At least you've saved me a mishap.
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May 19, 2016 00:52
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What would make a great inexpensive and expandable plex server i can plug headless by the router to access through vnc?
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May 19, 2016 01:25
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If I'm getting my first 144hz monitor, and a GTX 1070 that can push way more than 60hz at 1080p... should I get one I know is great at $250, or shell out an extra $75 for a $325 one that has G-Sync? *Edit: problem solved, the second doesn't have g-sync anyway. Derp.
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May 19, 2016 03:07
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mango sentinel posted:poo poo, I didn't realize socket 1151 boards don't work with DDR3, which I have. At least you've saved me a mishap. You don't happen to be near a Microcenter, do you? 6600k, ASRock Z170 Pro4 and 16GB DDR4 RAM was around $380 after (Ohio) tax. Drop to 8GB (or get an open box mobo if one's available) and you could probably squeeze in a Cooler Master 212 EVO cooler while you're there or order the Cryorig online.
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May 19, 2016 03:35
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Zack Ater posted:You don't happen to be near a Microcenter, do you? 6600k, ASRock Z170 Pro4 and 16GB DDR4 RAM was around $380 after (Ohio) tax. Drop to 8GB (or get an open box mobo if one's available) and you could probably squeeze in a Cooler Master 212 EVO cooler while you're there or order the Cryorig online. That's where I intend to shop, I'm just mad because I spent like $40 on some DDR3 a few months ago. This sounds like a plan.
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May 19, 2016 05:43
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Is an i5-4570 paired with a gtx 1080 going to struggle with cpu intensive games? I'm confident it wont bottleneck persay but i'm worried there might be hiccups with some demanding physics engines.
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May 19, 2016 08:39
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Looking to upgrade for Videogames as I feel the graphics card is getting a bit old. Sapphire 11180-00-40R HD 6850 1GB GDDR5 With an I7-3770 CPU. Would like to spend £100 but can go up to £200 if it's worth it. Or am I fine as is?
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May 19, 2016 16:37
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Fans posted:Looking to upgrade for Videogames as I feel the graphics card is getting a bit old. Your card's getting on a bit and the '50s were always budget options so you could probably see a fair bit of improvement for that money. AMD wise you might want to have a look at the 380 series. Someone else would have to comment on nvidia cards and whether or not the new ones coming out soon will be in that price range. http://www.ebuyer.com/730591-asus-r9-380-4gb-gddr5-dvi-hdmi-displayport-pci-e-graphics-card-strix-r9380-dc2oc-4gd5-gaming - £186
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May 19, 2016 17:10
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Depends. Obviously if you want to play AAA titles at ultra graphic settings you'll have to spend 300+ just to clarify that. With that in mind I would recommend to spend a bit more than a 100 bucks which gives you basically two choices. Either you go for a GTX 960 or a Radeon R9 380. They are very similiar to each other but I believe the R9 380 is a little bit stronger than the GTX 960 but then again AMD is often having troubles with drivers and games - mainly because Nvidia is doing a good job at shutting them down. Nonetheless I would recommend to upgrade as your card seems to be from 2010 you will experience a significant difference. Both of these cards listed above shouldnt cost more than ~150 each +-15. Regarding the model and brand you wont have to pay too much attention to details. Just make sure the graphic card has all relevant ports you need. You might come across something like "OC" or "Overclocked" in the description of the card. Usually these are stronger than the regular card but also a bit more expensive. However if you feel like that is too expensive the obligatory downgrade would be the GTX 950 or the R9 370.
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May 19, 2016 17:15
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Anyone know any places besides Amazon or Ebay for finding old gen hardware? I'm trying to find a Z77 mitx motherboard but most on Amazon/Ebay are $250-300. 
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May 19, 2016 17:21
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Zero. posted:Depends. Obviously if you want to play AAA titles at ultra graphic settings you'll have to spend 300+ just to clarify that. With that in mind I would recommend to spend a bit more than a 100 bucks which gives you basically two choices. Either you go for a GTX 960 or a Radeon R9 380. They are very similiar to each other but I believe the R9 380 is a little bit stronger than the GTX 960 but then again AMD is often having troubles with drivers and games - mainly because Nvidia is doing a good job at shutting them down. Note that AMD should be releasing their next gen cards and that those should fit into a an under 200 pound price range. Right now the 380 is a pretty reasonable card but waiting a little bit should noticeably improve the amount of performance you can buy. I think they should be giving some info this month. Also my experience is that AMD drivers are perfectly fine and a very few games where performance is very low for two or three days isn't a big deal at all, especially considering what an outlier GoW and Doom are. You'll definitely be seeing a big improvement, your price range is roughly where the flagship cards (7970) from the generation after your card fall. Next generation should push that performance level up another notch.
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May 19, 2016 17:32
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Zero. posted:Depends. Obviously if you want to play AAA titles at ultra graphic settings you'll have to spend 300+ just to clarify that. With that in mind I would recommend to spend a bit more than a 100 bucks which gives you basically two choices. Either you go for a GTX 960 or a Radeon R9 380. They are very similiar to each other but I believe the R9 380 is a little bit stronger than the GTX 960 but then again AMD is often having troubles with drivers and games - mainly because Nvidia is doing a good job at shutting them down. Thanks for the advice and I'm working in Pounds not Dollars, so a $300 card would be just about in budget. I've quite liked my current Nvidia card (And Shadowplay!) so I'll stick with them for now and pick up the GTX 960. Just to check before I throw money at it, it's this right? ASUS STRIX-GTX 960 DC2OC 2GD5 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960 2 GB Edit, I was also wrong and it seems I have a GTX 760. Serves me right for guessing without checking. It still worth the upgrade? Fans fucked around with this message at 18:04 on May 19, 2016 |
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May 19, 2016 17:56
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Fans posted:Thanks for the advice and I'm working in Pounds not Dollars, so a $300 card would be just about in budget. I've quite liked my current Nvidia card (And Shadowplay!) so I'll stick with them for now and pick up the GTX 960. Pretty sure the 2 GB models are already falling behind in some games, so if you hold on to your cards as long as you do I'd recommend a 4 GB model.
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May 19, 2016 18:03
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Fans posted:Thanks for the advice and I'm working in Pounds not Dollars, so a $300 card would be just about in budget. I've quite liked my current Nvidia card (And Shadowplay!) so I'll stick with them for now and pick up the GTX 960. Yea me too. In order to play AAA titles at ultra settings you would need at least GTX 970 but more likely a GTX 980. The 970 is around £270 and 980 is currently at around £400. However before you spend that much money on a graphic card it might be worth to see if you can hold on for a couple more weeks without buying one. Nvidia is going to release a new generation very soonish which is going to cause prices to sink for the current GTX 9X0 series down to more mangable price incl. the flagship - the 980 / 980Ti. Anyhow as already pointed out I would see if I can spend around £20 more to get the upgrade to 4GB as they will significantly improve your gaming experience. I recommend the MSI GTX 960 4GB DDR5 which listed at amazon.co.uk for £184 but since I am an idiot and dont know crap about british pc stores you might be able to get that somewhere else cheaper. The GTX 770 is not too bad right now but if you are experiencing framedrops or problems in general the upgrade to the GTX 960 is still worth it. Then again, if you change your mind and decide to go for an AMD card I can recommend - as already pointed out again - to wait as well.
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May 19, 2016 18:47
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Need some advice and/or help picking out parts. In May of 2008 I built a computer. Gigabyte motherboard, AMD processor, most other parts have been replaced at some point. Right now it has four gigs of RAM (thought it had eight, haven't had a chance to check and see but it's reading that it has four). Was running Windows 7 64-bit, recently upgraded to Windows 10 to help with an issue (see below). Six hard drives (five smaller drives backing up to a sixth), runs well when it runs. Biggest problem right now is that it's old and cranky. I haven't reformatted it in years and it shows. It was taking a full two hours to boot - I upgraded to Windows 10 as a last resort before reformatting, and it boots up pretty quickly now, but not every time - it freezes while booting up, or says there is an issue with the BIOS. I can post pictures. I don't think any hardware is actually bad, though, because it always eventually boots and runs more or less fine (though the video driver constantly crashes, I have an old GEFORCE 650 (edit: that doesn't sound right... I'll get back to you on what video card is in there, it was super cheap four years ago...) in there with the latest driver and it hates it for some reason). I don't use the computer much. Really just for data storage. My kids play Minecraft on it sometimes. We have a second computer (nearly as old) that runs better because the kids aren't allowed on it. So I'm hesitant to build an entirely new machine. I do, however, want to make it useable again, and that's going to mean reformatting the main drive. And while doing so, I was figuring I'd upgrade to a SSD and reinstall Windows 7 and throw some more RAM in there. Maybe a cheap video card as well, if it'd be an upgrade. What's the most cost-effective solution? Or does the computer sound too old to keep trying to upgrade? CornHolio fucked around with this message at 19:03 on May 19, 2016 |
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May 19, 2016 19:01
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