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Bulky Bartokomous posted:What is the green stuff and should I be worried about it? Looks like macro algae to me. Is it a new tank?
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Mar 20, 2016 18:54
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It's been up for about 2 years. A few weeks ago I noticed lots of green hair algae then lost my yellow tang out of the blue. Ammonia, Nitrate and Nitrite were all fine but at this thread's urging, i tested my phosphate and it was pretty high. I tried to replace the tang and the new one died within 48 hours. I added ChemPure Elite to my filter and within the last week have setup my first RODI system and made two 5 gallon water changes. Between the turbo snail and everything else the green hair algae problem is getting better. But then, about two days ago I noticed a bloom of what looks like diatoms on my substrate. All I can think of is that with the green hair algae getting eliminated the diatoms are blooming on the nutrients that freed up. 
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Mar 20, 2016 19:32
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Bulky Bartokomous posted:It's been up for about 2 years. A few weeks ago I noticed lots of green hair algae then lost my yellow tang out of the blue. Ammonia, Nitrate and Nitrite were all fine but at this thread's urging, i tested my phosphate and it was pretty high. I tried to replace the tang and the new one died within 48 hours. I added ChemPure Elite to my filter and within the last week have setup my first RODI system and made two 5 gallon water changes. Between the turbo snail and everything else the green hair algae problem is getting better. But then, about two days ago I noticed a bloom of what looks like diatoms on my substrate. All I can think of is that with the green hair algae getting eliminated the diatoms are blooming on the nutrients that freed up. Possibly. Your other inverts doing okay? Tangs can be pretty sensitive to copper like inverts. Also, what is your salinity at? Just trying to check all the bases. Also what were all your levels when you tested? Did you test alkalinity/calcium/mag? What brand salt do you use? Just be careful about doing too much too fast. Rapid changes whether they are good or bad can stress everything out.
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Mar 20, 2016 22:54
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Rallos posted:Possibly. Your other inverts doing okay? Tangs can be pretty sensitive to copper like inverts. Also, what is your salinity at? Just trying to check all the bases. I only have one invert, a turbo snail that serves at the whim of the rectangle trigger, its a FOWLR setup. When all this started: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 15 nitrate, 3.0 ppm phosphate. That was before I started using the RO/DI and added the ChemPure. Just did tests: 0 ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. 0.25 phosphate, 7.8 pH, 78 degrees. SG is 1.024. My LFS went out of business, I always used to use Instant Ocean, but after my first water change I had to switch to Top Fin salt mix until I can find another place to get Instant Ocean.
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Mar 20, 2016 23:33
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Bulky Bartokomous posted:What is the green stuff and should I be worried about it? Caulerpa racemosa it is the devil.
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Mar 21, 2016 17:38
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You could get a Foxface Rabbitfish and it should make short work of it.
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Mar 21, 2016 18:49
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Rallos posted:You could get a Foxface Rabbitfish and it should make short work of it. And possibly any other corals you have...possibly. Those things are hit or miss. Back in the day I picked up a Foxface to help with a bubble algae problem I had at the time and the thing was way more interested in loving up my corals than dealing with the algae.
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Mar 21, 2016 23:31
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Rallos posted:Looking forward to getting mine running. How the gently caress did the thing jump through tight netting? That is weird. I'm about to pick one up for my 25 Lagoon. I've got 1/8" netting over the top of it but gently caress man if it jumped through yours...
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Mar 23, 2016 06:51
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visuvius posted:How the gently caress did the thing jump through tight netting? That is weird. I'm about to pick one up for my 25 Lagoon. I've got 1/8" netting over the top of it but gently caress man if it jumped through yours... I have no idea man... I'm not sure it jumped through the netting. There is probably a 5/16th gap on all four sides where the lid rests on the little plastic posts but he had to have picked a loving perfect angle to both get out of the tiny gap and land on top of the screen... That fish tried really hard to kill himself... 
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Mar 23, 2016 13:50
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It probably wedged itself through the gap and could have flopped on either side of the gap. Even chance it did screen side rather than, off the tank entirely.
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Mar 23, 2016 14:08
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I've had pretty bad luck with firefish lately. The other one in the office tank jumped out a few days later. And the pair at home my clowns picked on one so bad that his tail fin was torn up and he got sucked into my mp10 and got cut in half... There is one left but he spends most of his time hiding. 
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Mar 23, 2016 14:14
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RIP Turbo the Snail. You were decimating my algae problem and today I came home from work and you were in on a odd position on the substrate. I tried to pick you up and what i can only assume what was left of your body was hanging out like a string. I wonder if he fell off something and the trigger finished the job or if the trigger finally just decided to give eating him a real try.
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Mar 26, 2016 01:51
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Just got a goby/pistol shrimp combo oh god they're so cute
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Mar 28, 2016 03:42
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DrakeriderCa posted:Just got a goby/pistol shrimp combo oh god they're so cute If they're anything like mine, you will never see them again. I do hear the pistol shrimp quite often though, they are surprisingly loud.
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Mar 28, 2016 14:31
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Enos Cabell posted:If they're anything like mine, you will never see them again. I do hear the pistol shrimp quite often though, they are surprisingly loud. We've had one for like 4+ years, including moving the whole tank twice.. Never once seen it. But as soon as I drop food in the tank I hear the little tell-tale *snick* *snick*
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Mar 28, 2016 16:44
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Enos Cabell posted:If they're anything like mine, you will never see them again. I do hear the pistol shrimp quite often though, they are surprisingly loud. Haha, that's the good thing about a nano tank. Two of his burrow entrances face the glass so I have my hopes up that one day I'll see him again. Do I need to worry if the shrimp is bigger than the goby? I know they're supposed to be symbiotic but this shrimp is a goddamn monster and the goby is a smaller Hi Fin. Will the shrimp chow down on the goby? Edit: goby has been located, alive and guarding the entrance to the burrow. Looks like they've paired. DrakeriderCa fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Mar 28, 2016 |
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Mar 28, 2016 17:59
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Our pair come out every evening for dinner. Our old pair would do the same, but they were much bigger, a YWG and a mini-lobster of a candy cane, thing was gigantic.
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Mar 28, 2016 19:16
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SaNChEzZ posted:Our pair come out every evening for dinner. Awesome! I hope ours do the same thing. But they're more boring colorations. What do you feed yours? I've seen people say meaty frozen fish is good. Do you target feed? Unfortunately I don't have much for scale here, but that's a medium sized Fire Shrimp beside him while I was floating them.  He's pretty huge from what I've seen of pistol shrimp.
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Mar 28, 2016 19:54
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DrakeriderCa posted:Awesome! I hope ours do the same thing. But they're more boring colorations. What do you feed yours? I've seen people say meaty frozen fish is good. Do you target feed? Yeah that's about how big our last guy was, I feed the whole tank Mysis, but I do target feed all the fish/shrimps.
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Mar 28, 2016 21:17
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Office Tank is doing well. Bought a bunch of frags yesterday and moved a few pieces from my tank at home. For the stuff I moved from home, all of it looks way happier in this office tank that it does in the main display which is super annoying. My acans are not happy in my home tank and I can't figure out why but they immediately opened up and got all fat when I put them in the IM Lagoon 25. I can't tell at this point if its just new fresh tank with clean water or if its the LED's versus T5's but its crazy how much better poo poo looks in here.         
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Mar 28, 2016 22:08
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Cool it's that time of the hobby when everything goes wrong: Skimmer recirculating pump goes boom, takes out the GFCI. The replacement pump I get (because the old pump is EOL) didn't come with the right fittings even though I ordered from the original manufacturer. Now I've got a ticket open with their support system. While looking for the clamp for my ATO line, I manage to snap off the plastic pieces that hold a maxijet to my kalk stirrer. It's an original MJ600, which means I need to hunt down a Cobalt because the Marineland ones do not fit. (gently caress those guys) *sigh* update: replacement skimmer pump volute coming, don't know when, cobalt maxijets coming, NEXT loving MONDAY gonna take my kalk stirrer out of my ATO line today so at least I'll have the ATO going over the weekend VAGENDA OF MANOCIDE fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Mar 31, 2016 |
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Mar 31, 2016 01:07
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So I'm planning a spring project that is a RODI filter-hour tracker as well as an overflow guardian (continuing the everything-goes-wrong theme!), and I want some thoughts and criticisms. Basic design right now is this, a 9"x9"x2" box I can mount on the wall right by my RODI unit: For the filter stages (top row): - Press a button (black dot between red & green LED's) for a stage to start the hour counter, the respective green LED lights up and the LCD display in the center also will light up and display the current hour total. I guess I don't really need a red LED for each filter stage now that I write things out. - Press and hold a button (1 second) to stop the counter, maybe the red LED turns on if any other stage is still on so you don't forget to turn each one off. - Press and hold a button (3 seconds) to reset a counter. - The only reason I separated out the stages is that I sometimes run just the RO part of my filter for drinking water. - Should there be a membrane hour counter? For the outputs (bottom corners): - Each output 'stage' has a pair of float valves connected (the wires right below the LCD) in a high-HIGH design, which clip onto the edge of a bucket or tub or whatever. The high-HIGH design is just a redundant high-water-level with both float valves at the top of the bucket. I'm not sure if float valves fail more often than solenoids... - Two solenoids hooked up in line with the DI output, the red line from right side. - The first output line, blue, goes to my house sump pump where the RODI waste water is. This is the overflow guardian part and it will be closed normally. - The second output line, green, goes to whatever vessel is being filled. - Press an output button to start the counter and start water flowing. If the float valves are already tripped, water level already high, then the red LED will blink (and maybe a buzzer will go *ERRRNT* cause I've never used a buzzer in a project). Otherwise, the solenoids will change in order to make the output correct. - Press and hold (1s) to stop the counter and stop water through that solenoid. LCD will display the time the stage was 'active' and running water so you can see how long it took to fill whatever container. - Press and hold (3s) to reset counter. - Maybe I should have three solenoids with the third one being before the input of the RODI unit so that if both sets of float valves get tripped, it can just turn the whole thing off? I'm worried that may cause more false-alarms and issues than just dedicating an output from this thing to the drain and wasting some RODI water. I'll probably have a power button somewhere although it will be wall-powered, don't see any reason to use batteries instead. Float valves are $10 each x4, solenoids are $15 each x2, RODI fittings $10, electronics about $40 for all (MicroChip PIC18F microcontroller, 20x4 mono LCD, buttons & misc.), and whatever material I decide to use for the case $TBD... of COURSE this ends up being expensive. TL;DR: Equipment nerd wants to step up his RODI and not-flooding-the-room game. Actual reef content: 
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Apr 1, 2016 01:22
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One of the LED's in my hood burned out so I'm replacing it and considering adding some color. It's a 14g Biocube, and right now it has 6 x 3W warm white LED's and 3 x 1W actinic blue LED's. I'm thinking of putting in a green or pink LED to replace one of the outgoing warm white ones. Right now I have no coral, but in the future I'll be looking at GSP and frogspawn as well as some green or blue zoa's. Is either of those LED's worth installing for better visible color range? Or should I just stick with the normal white LED's?
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Apr 1, 2016 01:39
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What is your LED driver setup? You may not be able to swap in a new LED with a different forward voltage (Vf) or drive current (I) than the dead LED. Pink and green would be weird to me, the shadows alone would drive me nuts. If all you've got is warm white and royal blue, swapping in a cool white, cyan or normal blue would be my suggestion. 18W of white and 3W of blue is not great to begin with but I think one of your blue strings went out, right?
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Apr 1, 2016 01:53
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It's a home built hack job from a PO, and I'd have to put a multimeter on it at home to figure out what it's putting out. But yeah, I'd have to find an LED that would fall within a reasonable range of the original warm white. I know the 21W total isn't much, but the tank is also like 15" by 15" so I'm not sure how much more I would want to do. I've seen the custom LED setups online that run 42W, but I've been told a few times that unless I'm keeping SPS I wouldn't need that much light.
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Apr 1, 2016 02:06
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I agree with the power total being fine for softies & LPS, it was more the ratio of W:B that was 'not great' in my mind. But I run my stuff around 1:2 and that's with nearly twice as many blue diodes to begin with.
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Apr 1, 2016 02:11
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More blue = more photosynthesis and thus more growth.
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Apr 1, 2016 04:30
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Wandering Orange posted:I agree with the power total being fine for softies & LPS, it was more the ratio of W:B that was 'not great' in my mind. But I run my stuff around 1:2 and that's with nearly twice as many blue diodes to begin with. One white to two blue? Wow, I was way out of it. While I'm bothering you guys, what's an appropriate light cycle? I've been doing 12 on/ 12 off, with the blue lights running a half hour longer than the white on both ends. DrakeriderCa fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Apr 1, 2016 |
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Apr 1, 2016 05:04
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Depends on the effective brightness of the LEDs. 54 watts of lovely early-gen Edison emitters on an 8gal I've been running for 4 hours all on, +1 hour either way for blues. OTOH ~22 ish watts of XPE/XPGs on a 10gal I've been running for 8 hours a day.
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Apr 1, 2016 20:39
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Dunno if this is verboten, but I tore down my tank and I'm selling off my Ecotech gear. Its listed in SA-mart if anyone is looking for a new light or powerheads http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3770751
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Apr 2, 2016 18:05
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Skimmer's back online, Coralvue support's really good, guys. Bypassed the kalk stirrer for now, so ATO's back up.
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Apr 2, 2016 23:55
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Dammit my goby and the pistol shrimp are already both eating from the tip of my feeder. It's so adorable 
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Apr 3, 2016 04:33
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My crappy old pump I've been using to mix my water died last week, so I stepped my game up and got a 950gph mag drive hooked up to some pvc and a couple of eductors. This thing mixes SO much faster and more thoroughly now.
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Apr 7, 2016 17:32
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Yah I need to step up my water change game. I need to invest in a couple mags. What I'd really like to do is eliminate buckets from the whole process and just go with a powerful pump and a really long hose.
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Apr 7, 2016 18:25
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I'll have to take some pics or a video later, but what I did was have a pipe come straight up to a T right above the water surface, then split off into arms on either side with a ball valve and then some loc-line with an eductor jet tip. One of those arms has a union, so I can take off one of the eductors and hook up my pipe section with a hose attachment. Will be able to mix and fill without using buckets or getting my hands wet even. Edit: here is an awesome VERTICAL VIDEO of what I rigged up https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ciufKgpXUsY Enos Cabell fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Apr 7, 2016 |
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Apr 7, 2016 18:36
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Enos Cabell posted:I'll have to take some pics or a video later, but what I did was have a pipe come straight up to a T right above the water surface, then split off into arms on either side with a ball valve and then some loc-line with an eductor jet tip. One of those arms has a union, so I can take off one of the eductors and hook up my pipe section with a hose attachment. Will be able to mix and fill without using buckets or getting my hands wet even. Love it!! Now I must have one.... What pump do you use?
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Apr 7, 2016 23:13
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Rallos posted:Love it!! Now I must have one.... What pump do you use? Thanks! It works really good, can't wait to do my first water change with it. I'm using a Danner mag-drive 950gph on mine.
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Apr 8, 2016 00:06
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Finally started sorting my tank out after months of neglect. I worked in the trade and got a bit pissed off with it all. But now I am free and got the itch back! Small issue is a weird algae I am having. It's kinda brown and slimy but also fibrous. http://imgur.com/CWC1uUa http://imgur.com/hnQeYx8 I am thinking dinos probably. It's a 275 cube with sump. Running a new bubble magus c7. I am looking for some macro as I have a grow bulb on the way and thinking a fuge will help. Nitrates are way high but phosphates and ammonia are zero. Oh and got a new fish! A nice 5" humu humu called manu. http://imgur.com/OfnKO8l
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Apr 13, 2016 15:50
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275g cube?? That sounds awesome, got any full tank shots?
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Apr 13, 2016 16:05
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Sorry uk goon! 275 litres! I will post some ftw when I get this fecking brown poo poo sorted. Tank is 60gal with sump 30gal. 275 gallons is the dream 
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Apr 13, 2016 16:06
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