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revmoo posted:It is. I tried the allen wrench hole months ago. One side of the sunroof moves and the other doesn't. Ugh, same problem with mine. I just haven't bothered to fix it because there's so much else to attend to on it before that. Being a poor BMW owner is about as fun as it sounds. 
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Jun 9, 2010 20:43
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Unfortunate tidings. I've got an E46 320i, and just recently there's a whole ton of vibration coming from what feels like the front right wheel. However, when I accelerate, said vibration dies off, same thing when I brake, no vibration. Checked tire pressure, it's all good, maybe a bent rim/tire? Friend of mine thought it could be a warped rotor, but wouldn't that be most noticeable when braking? Might help to add that the vibration also seems to lessen significantly on steering left/left turns, but I still feel it steering right/right turns. Would appreciate any tips you can offer, I'm hoping it's not a stock suspension component, seeing as the car is only juuust hitting 100k KM's.
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Jun 9, 2010 21:01
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My Z4 saga continues. Short version: The car is stuck in first gear and won't start. McKenna BMW in Los Angeles claims the SMG transmission's hydraulic pump needs to be replaced and wants $4,000 to do it. My warranty provider sent someone out to look at the car and claims it had transmission error codes stored in the computer, dated from before I bought it. That makes it a pre-existing condition and they won't touch it. McKenna says if it was a pre-existing condition the car never would have started. It also took them more than a week to diagnose the pump as the problem, which leads me to believe there's a bit more to it than just "check the codes." Can a faulty SMG hydraulic pump be diagnosed by simply checking the codes? If the pump was failing, would the computer be logging codes but not throwing any end-user notice?
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Jun 9, 2010 21:45
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If you buy an aftermarket warranty on an expensive sports car wouldn't you pay to have the thing inspected before you bought the warranty so that you have an accurate description of any pre-existing conditions and therefore could point to that when your warranty provided invariably tries to gently caress you in the rear end?
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Jun 9, 2010 21:58
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tesko.pk posted:Unfortunate tidings. I've got an E46 320i, and just recently there's a whole ton of vibration coming from what feels like the front right wheel. Take it to the shop, do 1) Wheel alignment, 2) FCAB check, and 3) Control Arm check. Those are the order in which I found out my e46 M3 basically has shot suspension, and was relatively cheap to figure out. FCABs are 65 a pop for the M3, Control Arms are ~300, and a new front strut is like 200, so don't sweat it if it is a suspension issue.
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Jun 9, 2010 23:50
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OrangeFurious posted:My Z4 saga continues. Dealers will always assume the most expensive, especially if it is under warranty, due to default lazy-check mode. Indy shops will actually do a diagnostic. The m3forum.com actually says that for $100 or so, there is an SMG relay that can be swapped first that accounts for 40% of the SMG problems people face. Worth it to check that first... http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=231113
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Jun 9, 2010 23:52
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Renn-spec is doing a groupbuy on KW v2 coilover kits, so I just purchased mine. I am pretty scared about what will happen (I bought my e46 SMG M3 in April), but I am pretty excited to feel what top-quality coilover kits will do to the already brilliant handling. Considering my m3 is at 125k miles, and they are already due for a suspension refresh, I'm sure any update will seem amazing. It will take me a month to get them installed though. Will update later.
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Jun 10, 2010 00:02
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McMadCow posted:Ugh, same problem with mine. Agreed. I still need to find out what's loose in my steering. But I can't in my apartment parking lot. My tools are halfway across town. On the other hand, my brother's year-newer Honda has given him more problems and been more expensive to fix than my car, and my OTHER brother's Grand Am is absolutely loving infuriating to work on (screw to hold the door card on hidden behind a glued-on reflector? gently caress YOU GM) so it could be worse.
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Jun 10, 2010 00:56
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Pissingintowind posted:I already have the entire assembly, including the hub attached the the knuckle, on my parts car. I shouldn't have any issues detaching the knuckle from the strut, tie rod, and control arm for transplantation, should I? 3 bolts to the strut, 1 each to the control arm and tie rod. man if you're gonna do all that work, it doesn't make sense to me not to go ahead and replace the hub itself. it will fail at some point, and doing the job properly will save you heartache in the future.
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Jun 10, 2010 03:25
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OrangeFurious posted:
Aftermarket warranties always find ANY excuse to get out of paying for a repair. I learned my lesson and will never buy one again. I mean, the car was didn't have any SMG issues when you bought it, right? Just because codes are in the computer from a previous repair doesn't mean they have anything to do with the current situation. "Oh work was performed and it fully resolved the problem, but now something similar is causing other problems? Sorry, pre-existing condition"  Transmission codes are notoriously unreliable. There are cases where you can be slipping in gears but it's not enough to throw a code. I'd imagine SMG codes are more unreliable and you as an end user won't be notified by a light, but rather by an experience similar to what you're facing now. Don't they have some way of testing the pump and verifying it is indeed causing the problem? Like a manual override? It sucks, but if your warranty won't pay up, you'll have no choice but to bend over and pay the dealer.
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Jun 10, 2010 03:27
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Quick question for everyone. I have seen alot of issues with e46 interior parts peeling/bubbling. I have this problem in a few spots. My googling has told me that everyone seems to feel it better to just replace the trim parts, but I can't help wondering if there is not an interior spray paint that I might be able to use to fix it. Of course I would have to do some really good prep work, but it just really seems odd to replace a whole console for instance rather than pull it, prep it, and paint it. Anyone have any experience? Mine has the grey interior. Before people say it, I'm aware that the parts are not currently painted, but rather colored plastic. It just seems that you could give it a good sanding and paint it a matching color with good results.
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Jun 10, 2010 14:43
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outkastist posted:Quick question for everyone. For what it is worth I've had extremely good luck using any old spray paint on interior plastic parts on my 1996 Cobra. The only problem with paint is that it will chip off versus that colored plastic but you can always respray it I guess. Also, in my E46 the passenger rear C pillar is bubbling. It's like cloth but still a total pain. That and the busted sunroof screen.
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Jun 10, 2010 16:01
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VibrioCholera posted:For what it is worth I've had extremely good luck using any old spray paint on interior plastic parts on my 1996 Cobra. The only problem with paint is that it will chip off versus that colored plastic but you can always respray it I guess. Which trim? Are you talking the center console, where the cupholders are? Or the trim that you can buy in kits, like "Titan Shadow" or "Brushed Aluminum" (IE, dash trim, side armrests, gear trim, etc). I am currently doing a gloss paint repaint on all of the plastic trim parts, since the kits are 800-1200 to replace the 8 pieces. As for the center console, its 60 bucks to get a new OEM center console from Tischer BMW. Hence why some people go the cheaper route, but for <$250, you can refresh all of your black rubberized plastic with brand new OEM. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=298054&page=3 is a homegrown method with good results.
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Jun 10, 2010 19:29
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madrugan posted:Which trim? Are you talking the center console, where the cupholders are? Or the trim that you can buy in kits, like "Titan Shadow" or "Brushed Aluminum" (IE, dash trim, side armrests, gear trim, etc). Wow, this is awesome. I also didn't know new interior parts were available. Every piece I found online was carbon fiber ($$$$$$$$$) or beige. Thanks a lot. (That's also a very similar process to what I did. Only difference is I did it on a Ford and the parts I painted were not really coated.) edit: I just went to Tischer BMW. Where on the site do I order parts? There's no real form like some dealership sites but instead I seem to have to tell them the parts I need? VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jun 10, 2010 |
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Jun 10, 2010 20:14
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Try getbmwparts.com
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Jun 10, 2010 20:27
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Yeah, I use realoem.com to find the parts, and plug it in on getbmwparts.com. EDIT:: Whats your production year and model? What specific trim are you looking at? I'll see if I can dig up what you are looking for. Also, sometimes e46fanatics.com gets general e46 chassis specials from Tischer. So much so that they forgo actual coupons and just offer the general discount. Some of the more common e46fanatics purchases: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=AccessoryCatalog&catalogid=4462&siteid=214672&categoryID=103121 madrugan fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jun 10, 2010 |
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Jun 10, 2010 20:37
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madrugan posted:Yeah, I use realoem.com to find the parts, and plug it in on getbmwparts.com. I was about to say I need the center console, cupholders, and pretty much all the painted stuff that is included (black) for a 2002 M3. Looks like page three of your link have everything and holy wow the prices are pretty reasonable. I assume these will work on an M3 as well? VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jun 10, 2010 |
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Jun 10, 2010 23:37
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Quick question. I got an eye on a 74' 2002tii in burgundy a friend wants to sell me. (Your the first person to know what it is! You should buy it!) Sorry this post is going to be brief but I aim to move fast. Where is a good place to get a ball park price on something like this? The car hasen't moved in a while since he got to Seattle, and has since then failed to turn over. I'm thinking a simple dead battery. The car looks fine, just dirty. I'll know more tonight, just looking for tips here. Nevermind, its the earlier model with the round rear tails. Thank god.
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Jun 10, 2010 23:44
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Mcqueen posted:Quick question.
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Jun 10, 2010 23:55
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VibrioCholera posted:I was about to say I need the center console, cupholders, and pretty much all the painted stuff that is included (black) for a 2002 M3. Looks like page three of your link have everything and holy wow the prices are pretty reasonable. I assume these will work on an M3 as well? Yep, you can actually see the m3forum version of the specials here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=AccessoryCatalog&catalogid=4462&siteid=214672&categoryID=123145 I am pretty sure interior-wise, M3s are very close to 3-series coupes. (I own a 2002 Jet Black SMG M3, so I'll be making these purchases shortly after I finish my suspension refresh.)
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Jun 11, 2010 01:02
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Holy poo poo, this is the best $14 bucks I ever spent at Harbor Freight. Separated my tie rods and control arms from the steering knuckle in seconds, without ripping up the joints. HIGHLY recommended.
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Jun 11, 2010 19:23
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Tech question for the E36 guys... My 92 325i seems to have 2 different personalities. For about the first half hour or so of running time from cold, my engine has loads of torque all throughout the revs. After that, however, it's kind of boggy down low. I probably wouldn't think anything was wrong if I didn't notice the difference between the two, so it's not like it's all THAT bad. Once I get the revs higher it goes just fine, but it's got a comparitive sluggishness that isn't there when I first start going. It teems to be more time-related, than heat-related. It still has tons of torque when it gets to its operating temperature for quite a while. But after 30 mins or so the torque doesn't really make its presence known until around 3.5K. I hope I explained that ok... has anyone else seen that? I'm sort of puzzled as to where to start looking. You guys figured out my first revving issue (coil problem) in about 6 minutes though, so I figured it was worth a shot...
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Jun 11, 2010 22:51
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How long has it been since your inspection II? IE, Fuel Filter? I had power loss at low rpms in my e46 with an 8 year old fuel filter. Same question for Oil/air filter, and MAF (cleaning MAF as opposed to replacing). Those are the cheaper ones to start with.
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Jun 11, 2010 23:09
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madrugan posted:How long has it been since your inspection II? IE, Fuel Filter? I had power loss at low rpms in my e46 with an 8 year old fuel filter. Same question for Oil/air filter, and MAF (cleaning MAF as opposed to replacing). Those are the cheaper ones to start with. It has a brand new air filter within 2K miles. It's a CAI, actually. Brand new oil change about 500-1K ago, including filter. Not sure about the fuel filter, I'll look into that. Not sure about MAF cleaning, I'll get some cleaner tonight. Not sure about inspection II? What is that? The car has 150K on it.
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Jun 11, 2010 23:49
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Inspection II is usually the inspection set at 40k and 70k. It may also be only an M3 thing, but I don't know. The following occurs during Inspection II: Fuel Filter swap, Oil Filter swap, Cabin Air Filter swap, ALL spark plugs swapped, gasket refresh, Oil change, MAF clean, Engine decarbonization (Chevron techron/seafoam I have been told are okay replacements, before the oil change). I suggest also a transmission fluid flush with the Inspection II. With my M3 this year I also did a power steering flush, a brake line flush (I actually replaced the lines with SS), and an SMG fluid flush. Usually you do those ever 40k or so miles. A bit of bimmerforum research suggested that rough low rpm could also be the O2 sensor, or the Idle Control Valve needing cleaning, among other things. Is there an SES light showing up at all? If it does, take it in and get it checked. There are a variety of issues with high-mileage, low-rpm power loss. Eliminate the maintenance reasons first, because from there, it tends to get a lot more expensive. There's also this: http://www.beisansystems.com/ madrugan fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Jun 12, 2010 |
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Jun 12, 2010 01:14
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McMadCow posted:Tech question for the E36 guys... I'd say O2 sensor.
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Jun 12, 2010 02:50
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madrugan posted:Inspection II is usually the inspection set at 40k and 70k. It may also be only an M3 thing, but I don't know. Ok cool, I guess I've got a few more things to look at. But what's an SES light? I'm not getting a check engine light, if that's what you mean... Also, it's not a VANOS engine. ('92) Beach Bum posted:I'd say O2 sensor. The one on the intake, you mean?
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Jun 12, 2010 18:31
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McMadCow posted:The one on the intake, you mean? Exhaust. I replaced mine right after I got my '92. After it got really hot it would be gutless below 3500 like you said. Look up the Econoline van DIY on bf.c if you want to save a few bucks and can solder a few wires.
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Jun 12, 2010 19:05
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Exhaust. I replaced mine right after I got my '92. After it got really hot it would be gutless below 3500 like you said. Look up the Econoline van DIY on bf.c if you want to save a few bucks and can solder a few wires. Wow, sounds exactly like mine. I'll look into it. Thanks!
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Jun 12, 2010 20:33
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Also, wasn't there a Mustang O2 sensor conversion for the E36 as well...?
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Jun 12, 2010 21:04
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Probably. It's the same exact Bosch sensor, just with different plugs.
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Jun 12, 2010 22:16
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The fuel filter job on the 92 is a biiitch. I have nothing else to add.
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Jun 13, 2010 02:11
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revmoo posted:The fuel filter job on the 92 is a biiitch. I have nothing else to add. I bought it today. I guess I'll get to experience that soon enough. Jorsh posted:Probably. It's the same exact Bosch sensor, just with different plugs. Bought that too. I'm supposed to switch out the plugs on them. I assume it doesn't matter which white lead goes to which? There are two, and one black.
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Jun 13, 2010 09:10
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Anybody wanna tell me why I shouldn't buy a E32 750iL? Specifically, this car will be used as a second car, for occasional (1-2 days a week) driving to work, cruises, and a secondary car if I'm working on my car. So it wouldn't need to be that terribly reliable or anything. I do all the work on my own cars, but I wouldn't want a V-12 if it is going to have major problems- though I can do the work, if the head gaskets blow a lot, or the bearings go out (anything similar), necessitating rebuilding, I don't want it. Are the transmissions that bad on the E32 versions? It does seem like a lot of them are throwing the same code (saw a few earlier, but can't find it right now) - p4020 or something? Is that bad? These cars do seem awful cheap, seems like you can find a decent one for $2500 or so.
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Jun 13, 2010 22:38
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VanFullOfMidgets posted:Anybody wanna tell me why I shouldn't buy a E32 750iL? In a word: unreliable. Probably one of the most unreliable BMWs ever made. The motors and drivetrains are tough, but everything else falls apart around them. Check out this site for one guys story: http://my750.com/mystory.htm I suppose if you have something else to drive, it wouldn't be as bad. But you'd still be dumping money into a car that wouldn't ever be worth very much. You'd have to really love the body style to justify the expense. The E23 7-Series is much better even though it's older. It's also (IMHO) better looking.
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Jun 14, 2010 01:21
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Brock Landers posted:In a word: unreliable. Probably one of the most unreliable BMWs ever made. The motors and drivetrains are tough, but everything else falls apart around them. Check out this site for one guys story: http://my750.com/mystory.htm So, a 735i, of the same generation but in manual, would be a better bet? Honestly, I do love that particular body style, but I'll be doing a lot more research. It would be a second car, yes, but I don't want a car that needs twice its price in parts every year. Are you saying that generation 7-series is going to be bad no matter what, or that it is simply the 750 v-12 version?
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Jun 14, 2010 02:06
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partly thanks to this thread, I got a higher mileage 2004 530 with premium & sport packages and not a 2002/03 7-series. Sweet ride and I'm loving dynamic stabilization coming from an older lexus with worn shocks. Problem is got it through a friend who bought it from a bank auction. There's a bit of interior damage that wasn't listed (cracked, bubbled wood trim, a lot of plastic trim & shifter chipped to hell, and some discolored leather) - and only a valet key despite listing it with two master keys. Gotta go through arbitration now so I might not end up keeping it. welp
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Jun 14, 2010 03:57
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Brock Landers posted:In a word: unreliable. Probably one of the most unreliable BMWs ever made. The motors and drivetrains are tough, but everything else falls apart around them. Check out this site for one guys story: http://my750.com/mystory.htm To be fair, though, that guy took it only to BMW dealerships and has a lot of estimated costs in there for what it currently needs. I think a lot of us could go poking around our cars and find enough stuff to fix to cost well over the value of the car, but its stuff we don't care about. Plus, it looks like a number of times he brought it in it was just to top off a fluid. So the 'OMG MY CAR HAS BEEN IN THE SHOP 54 TIMES!!!' is a bit misleading as well.
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Jun 14, 2010 04:41
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CornHolio posted:To be fair, though, that guy took it only to BMW dealerships and has a lot of estimated costs in there for what it currently needs. Yeah, reading through that list...it becomes apparent that this guy is the "put gas in it and steer" type. From that repair history, it seems that car hasn't had any PM in the entire time he owned it - he just waited for stuff to break. EDIT: The E32 uses the same V12 as the E31 8 Series. Trouble spots on the engine would include DK motors (the drive-by-wire actuators), intake manifold gaskets, and banjo bolts in the oiling system. The nice thing about those is that they operate like 2 I6 motors joined together - there are two of everything, including ECMs. So if something is screwed up on one side only, you can often swap suspect parts between sides to see if the problem follows the part. Makes it easier to diagnose certain issues. I wouldn't stay away from an E32 myself, but I wouldn't buy one without knowing how to work on my own cars either. Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Jun 14, 2010 |
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Jun 14, 2010 04:49
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There's a guy in my apartment complex just a few buildings over that has an E32 750iL. In white, too. I lust after it every time we walk by it. Oddly enough, somebody else nearby owns an old V12 jag 2-door.
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Jun 14, 2010 05:57
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