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Geemer posted:Yes, that is literally what they are for. A powered hub like you linked is especially good if you're gonna attach stuff to it that might need a lot of power from USB. Geoj posted:There is a distance limitation to a single-run USB cable. If you need to go further than about 10 feet you'll need an "active" USB cable (basically plugs into a DC power supply and amplifies the signal) to extend that range out to about 150 feet. Ok, cheers both of you, i'm on the right track then.
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Dec 11, 2018 20:52
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They also make powered USB extenders that run over cat6 cables. Kinda pricey though, but rock solid and can support USb 3.0/3.1.
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Dec 11, 2018 23:54
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What's the smallest case I can fit an evga GTX 1080ti ftw3 in? I'm building a tiny build and want it to be able to take my main computers card as a hand me down when the time comes
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Dec 18, 2018 14:38
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Is there a to estimate how much life a solid state HD or a disc based HD has left in it, other than just counting months out on a clock?
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Dec 18, 2018 22:38
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poisonpill posted:Is there a to estimate how much life a solid state HD or a disc based HD has left in it, other than just counting months out on a clock? You can track the NAND wear on SSDs, using something like CrystalDiskInfo or the vendor's toolkit software. Though the indications tend to be conservative and only track guaranteed writes. No such luxury on HDDs though. Either it'll die fast or it'll last a really long time. Your best bet is keeping track of bad sectors and replace it as soon as they start popping up.
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Dec 18, 2018 23:00
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Estimating for a spinning disk is pretty hard, since the motors in them can work fine for well beyond their rated lifespan (and often do) but failures are frequently without warning. Typically failures will be either in newly deployed or end-of-life products, so after a disk has been working for a month or two I'm generally going to have confidence in it at least until the end of its warranty. The normal failure case for an SSD is going read-only at the end of its rated number of writes, and remaining rated lifespan can be seen in SMART attributes with tools like CrystalDiskInfo. Other than wear from writes and manufacturing defects in particular models SSD failures are uncommon and pretty random. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Dec 18, 2018 |
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Dec 18, 2018 23:07
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This is all good info, thanks. If a HDD is loud on startup, does that indicate anything?
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Dec 19, 2018 02:40
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poisonpill posted:If a HDD is loud on startup, does that indicate anything? "Making popcorn" loud or "high pitch whine that settles down after a minute or two" loud?
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Dec 19, 2018 05:43
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In addition to SSDs wearing out their NAND flash, the controller can also die suddenly, but this isn't something you can predict. Always back up everything important/irreplaceable!poisonpill posted:This is all good info, thanks. If a HDD is loud on startup, does that indicate anything? HDDs can have multiple points of failure due to being mechanical: the main spindle motor, the actuator, the heads, the platters, etc. Basically, the more wear on a given HDD (so more spin up cycles, and power-on hours) the closer it is to dying. Noise itself isn't indicative of failure, but unusual noise can be (e.g. multiple attempts to spin up, weird buzzing/humming, etc.) I've recently had an older drive (like 5-6 years old, but with low hours) die with apparently an actuator issue, and a recent purchase (an older model, but supposedly refurbished, from Newegg) die from I believe a motor failure (can't spin up) for reference. HD Sentinel is disk-monitoring software that seems to be useful in estimating remaining drive life (both HDDs and SSDs.)
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Dec 19, 2018 09:16
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pop quiz hotshot. What is the best way to record HDMI to disk for long periods (e.g. days) cheaply? Backstory: At work I'm developing some software that has to run for a long time, (e.g. weeks without issues). I'm scheduling robots around an environment, and the customer (as part of their acceptance tests) really wants to see long videos of the robots moving around doing stuff in the GUI to convince them that the robots aren't stationary for long periods of time, and also divert and move round each-other when one breaks down and don't queue up. It would also be nice to record the GUI live, because sometimes the customer makes insane choices in the GUI (like randomly moving robots by hand) resulting in strange behavior which I can't clearly see without trawling through hours of logs. In an ideal world, something that I can just pass HDMI through between the server and the monitor and records straight to a SSD in a standard format, and splits into files every hour or something would be great. I also have though been looking at things like the: Elgato Game Capture HD60 I don't care if I have to have another PC sat next to my server that does all the capture. The key thing I want is length. A lot of these boxes that just do HDMI -> SDCard seems to max out at 4 hours or 8 hours recording time. I need to be able to get like a weeks footage just leaving the thing running. Quality isn't too important. 1080p or 720p at 25fps would do, or less frames. Its just about the recording being good enough to bug hunt. Help me use up the Christmas end of year R&D budget quick!
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Dec 19, 2018 11:28
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Geoj posted:"Making popcorn" loud or "high pitch whine that settles down after a minute or two" loud? Again, thanks all for the great info. I’ve backed up all family pictures/treasure maps/rare memes between my HDD and SSD. It’s more like a high pitch that settles down after a few seconds. It just... sounds louder or more confused on startup, if that makes sense?
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Dec 19, 2018 15:28
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That's just the platters spinning up from a dead stop to 7200 RPMs.
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Dec 19, 2018 15:38
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Captain Muffin posted:pop quiz hotshot. Look into security video encoders/DVRs. Those are built to run 24/7.
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Dec 19, 2018 17:29
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I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this, but hopefully so. I have a rig that died on me a couple of months back; I went through every component and identified that the PSU had crapped out. I put a new PSU in, as well as a second PSU (1600w and 1200w) and linked them together with a splitter. Well, not even 10 minutes later, I am sitting there and notice smoke. I immediately flipped both PSU's off and this is what I saw. Is it possibly just a bad splitter? I've put a lot of rigs together and never seen this happen before 
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Dec 19, 2018 23:32
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MarksMan posted:I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this, but hopefully so. I have a rig that died on me a couple of months back; I went through every component and identified that the PSU had crapped out. I put a new PSU in, as well as a second PSU (1600w and 1200w) and linked them together with a splitter. Well, not even 10 minutes later, I am sitting there and notice smoke. I immediately flipped both PSU's off and this is what I saw. Is it possibly just a bad splitter? I've put a lot of rigs together and never seen this happen before Did you make sure to replace all of the modular cables from the old PSU with new ones? What splitter are you using and what does it split? Does it just pass through the power on signal by connecting green and black on the 20 pin of the second supply when it gets power from the first? Is this for bitcoin mining because that's a lot of power and most US 15A circuits aren't going to handle both of those simulataneously if they get anywhere near max draw and you might burn down your house.
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Dec 19, 2018 23:45
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Rexxed posted:Did you make sure to replace all of the modular cables from the old PSU with new ones? What splitter are you using and what does it split? Does it just pass through the power on signal by connecting green and black on the 20 pin of the second supply when it gets power from the first? I'm pretty sure, but not positive, that I used all new cables from the new PSU's. The splitter just makes it so I can daisy-chain the power supplies (you can see how it connects in the second pic.) Basically, splitter goes into the mobo, then has 2 connectors to plug the 2 power supplies in to, 1 of them is the 'main' and the other PSU is simply switched on from what I understand. It's at my warehouse I have for my crypto farm, where I have 220v plugs and 30 amp circuits. The *only* variable is that I was building/testing this system with the cords plugged in to extension cords, rather than into one of my power distribution units on a 220v plug. But I've done the same thing before (using extension cords while installing Linux, testing, etc.) and never had an issue. The extension cords were plugged into some of my 110v plugs rather than 220v.
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Dec 20, 2018 00:15
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MarksMan posted:I'm pretty sure, but not positive, that I used all new cables from the new PSU's. The splitter just makes it so I can daisy-chain the power supplies (you can see how it connects in the second pic.) Basically, splitter goes into the mobo, then has 2 connectors to plug the 2 power supplies in to, 1 of them is the 'main' and the other PSU is simply switched on from what I understand. It's at my warehouse I have for my crypto farm, where I have 220v plugs and 30 amp circuits. The *only* variable is that I was building/testing this system with the cords plugged in to extension cords, rather than into one of my power distribution units on a 220v plug. But I've done the same thing before (using extension cords while installing Linux, testing, etc.) and never had an issue. The extension cords were plugged into some of my 110v plugs rather than 220v. It's a weird situation because the splitter thing should just be connecting the green wire to one of the black wires on the second power supply and I'd assume nothing else. That weird blobby mess which I assume is what was melting could be coming from the ground pin next to the green one: http://www.smpspowersupply.com/connectors-pinouts.html If so maybe you have some kind of ground issue using different circuits and/or extension cables. I'd expect the negative of the two power supplies to be connected together through the components themselves so I don't know why so much power would be going through the motherboard ground pin, but it's also possible it's a different pin since it's a little hard to be certain from the picture. I'm a little surprised that it's not just designed so that the first power supply closes a relay or transistor that turns on the second one instead of running a whole branched off 20 pin over to it, but I suppose there's some reason for it.
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Dec 20, 2018 00:43
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Do Surface tablets just charge over microUSB or do their charging cables have an extra something built in? The cable for my wife's Surface 2(?) will supply power while using the tablet, but won't actually charge the device if it's in use (the Taskbar icon says "plugged in, not charging"). Wondering if I can just get a long microUSB cable as a replacement or if I need to get an official cable from Microsoft.
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Dec 20, 2018 11:19
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There is a lot of fuckery when it comes to proper charging cables - both the cable and the power source need to signal the device their capabilities their right way. Long story short, official cables and chargers will work. Others may work but your best bet is to just try. Sometimes they are specifically labeled as charging cables but you never know how correct that labeling is with random noname cables. I have heard good things about Anker cables, though - so probably if I saw an Anker cable I would expect it to work.
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Dec 20, 2018 17:16
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C-Euro posted:Do Surface tablets just charge over microUSB or do their charging cables have an extra something built in? The cable for my wife's Surface 2(?) will supply power while using the tablet, but won't actually charge the device if it's in use (the Taskbar icon says "plugged in, not charging"). Wondering if I can just get a long microUSB cable as a replacement or if I need to get an official cable from Microsoft. Casual google search would indicate this is a known issue, probably not the cable. This guy encountered the problem right out of the box.
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Dec 20, 2018 17:34
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E: nevermind that isnt even what i want to accomplish anyway but i will try to get an answer this way: anybody know of a micro ATX board (AM4) with both an NVME joint and an m2 sata? Worf fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Dec 20, 2018 |
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Dec 20, 2018 17:35
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I'm assembling a new PC for a friend, but we can't get the machine to POST. All we've got plugged in is the PSU, the mobo, the CPU, the RAM, the monitor (HDMI out of the mobo; it also has VGA and DVI) the case power switch and the onboard PC-speaker. When we try to boot, we don't get a BIOS/UEFI screen; some of the lights on the board turn on, but the screen never lights up and we can't figure it out. I've checked and double-checked the connections, I've tried the RAM in different slots (or just using one of the two sticks), but nothing works. Should I just start returning parts for replacement? What are we doing wrong? Motherboard: Biostar B360GT5S LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel B360 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard CPU: Intel Core i5-9600K Coffee Lake 6-Core 3.7 GHz (4.6 GHz Turbo) LGA 1151 (300 Series) 95W w/ Intel UHD Graphics 630
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Dec 20, 2018 23:55
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Maybe a misplaced case standoff? Have you tried using the board connected outside the case and on a non-conductive surface?
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Dec 21, 2018 00:10
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I know you said you double-checked the connections, but did you maybe forget to plug in the CPU power connector? It's one I tend to overlook.
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Dec 21, 2018 00:13
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There are a lot of good suggestions above. Here are a few more: Do you see any fans spinning? Especially the cpu fan, hopefully a case fan too Did you install all of the ram or just one stick? Have you tried just using vga? stray posted:Should I just start returning parts for replacement? What are we doing wrong? I would suggest trying the components (basically everything except the cpu/motherboard) in other computers if possible to see if it can find the offending part faster.
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Dec 21, 2018 01:10
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Geemer posted:I know you said you double-checked the connections, but did you maybe forget to plug in the CPU power connector? It's one I tend to overlook. there seems to be a atx 2x4 12v near the top
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Dec 21, 2018 01:17
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Before I forget - did you install a speaker? Did it beep?
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Dec 21, 2018 01:22
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 what on earth is up with my google chrome? I've been getting other weird behaviour too, like my Facebook newsfeed only loading one post and not loading anything else.
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Dec 21, 2018 01:35
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Geoj posted:Casual google search would indicate this is a known issue, probably not the cable. Yikes. We are on vacation visiting her parents so disassembling it or taking it to an MS store is out of the question. Tried the first couple of suggestions that people had and no dice, I'll keep experimenting with it. E: My MIL wiped the contacts down with rubbing alcohol and now it's fine? 
C-Euro fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Dec 21, 2018 |
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Dec 21, 2018 01:47
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future ghost posted:Maybe a misplaced case standoff? Have you tried using the board connected outside the case and on a non-conductive surface? Geemer posted:I know you said you double-checked the connections, but did you maybe forget to plug in the CPU power connector? It's one I tend to overlook. el dorito posted:Do you see any fans spinning? Especially the cpu fan, hopefully a case fan too 1. The CPU fan spins when the power button is pressed and remains spinning. No other fans are plugged in yet. 2. I tried each RAM stick alone in the DIMMA1 slot, tried both in DIMMA1 & DIMMA2 (both ways). No luck. 3. I'm plugged into the motherboard's VGA port. Nothing. 4. I don't have lots of spare mobos and CPUs lying around (and the one I have is not compatible) so this is not an option. el dorito posted:Before I forget - did you install a speaker? Did it beep? stray fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Dec 21, 2018 |
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Dec 21, 2018 18:22
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^ Does the beep behavior change if you remove all RAM and power the system on? Usually a single beep repeated endlessly is a signal that the board has no RAM installed. e: check the fan header labeling on the board. Sometimes system board manufacturers will designate a header for the CPU fan and if a fan is not connected to it the board will not POST. Per Biostar's FAQ it may be labeled "JCFAN1". Geoj fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Dec 21, 2018 |
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Dec 21, 2018 18:30
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Geoj posted:^ And the CPU fan is plugged into the CPU_FAN1 header. Edit: According to the CPU Support page for this mobo, the BIOS might need an update to use this CPU. I haven't gotten a POST yet, how am I supposed to tell what version of the BIOS I'm using and whether it needs to be updated? stray fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Dec 21, 2018 |
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Dec 21, 2018 19:47
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stray posted:Yes, if I remove the RAM, I get the beep. Clearly, that's a "No RAM" beep. You'd need a loaner CPU for it. A local computer store might be able to help you out by installing the bios update if you take the motherboard to them. Alternative long shot: check the voltage of the little battery on the motherboard. Weird behavior can occur when it runs low. Though this is probably not the problem for you right now, since it's newer than like 8 years.
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Dec 21, 2018 20:23
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Is there a thread for Sparc systems somewhere, or exotic platforms in general? I refurbished my old Sun Ultra 10 and am trying out different OSs and was wondering if other people here have some experience which ones support most of the hardware. So far I installed OpenBSD and most hardware is correctly auto-detected, but the driver for the Creator3D frame buffer is not working properly (forcing me to use it in generic frame buffer mode, which is slow as molasses). I might try Solaris or NetBSD next, since they are supposed to support the Creator3D with hardware acceleration.
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Dec 21, 2018 20:52
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stray posted:Yes, if I remove the RAM, I get the beep. Clearly, that's a "No RAM" beep. Assuming that you’ve tried the RAM and power supply in other systems to make sure they’re actually working, I don’t really see any other culprit other than the cpu/motherboard. Yikes The only other last ditch effort suggestion, which is probably optional, is to put in a known-good ram stick and PSU to see if the motherboard is, for whatever impossible reason, incompatible with those specific models of components.
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Dec 21, 2018 20:58
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Sectopod posted:Is there a thread for Sparc systems somewhere, or exotic platforms in general? It's got a different slant but the retrocomputer gaming thread probably has folks who are interested in that stuff, even if it's not directly gaming related. There's an archived thread on refurbishing old systems as well. A lot of it is Atari and Commodore era stuff but there's probably some overlap. I still have my DEC Multia on a shelf but it needs some work before it'll fire up again. It was never that fast to begin with but hey it's an Alpha! Rexxed fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Dec 22, 2018 |
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Dec 21, 2018 21:04
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Rexxed posted:It's got a different slant but the retrocomputer gaming thread probably has folks who are interested in that stuff, even if it's not directly gaming related. There's an archived thread on refurbishing old systems as well. A lot of it is Atari and Commodore era stuff but there's probably some overlap. I still have my DEC Multia on a shelf but it needs some work before it'll fire up again. It was never that fast to begin with but hey it's an Alpha! Thanks for the tips (your second link seems broken). And give that DEC some love, that's one of those neat pizza-box designs, right? It looks like Alpha is still supported by OpenBSD and some Linux flavors. Not sure how usable it would be, but there's a Doom port for nearly everything 
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Dec 22, 2018 10:47
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Sorry, fixed that link. I think NetBSD and OpenBSD would be the main options, but I need to solder on a new IC because I ran it flat for a while and it got multia heat death (an IC overheated while it was running in a horizontal configuration). I have the replacement part but haven't gotten around to soldering it on. Some day I will, I think I even put a massive 32MB of ECC In there.
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Dec 22, 2018 19:54
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Hey thread, so recently I've been having my computer freeze at random intervals, forcing a hard reset. I've tried looking up the causes, and it seems tied to driver or power supply issues, as well as overheating. However, I suspect that the main cause might be because the main hard drive my OS is on is dying. Would that be the probable cause?
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Dec 23, 2018 01:02
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Willo567 posted:Hey thread, so recently I've been having my computer freeze at random intervals, forcing a hard reset. I've tried looking up the causes, and it seems tied to driver or power supply issues, as well as overheating. However, I suspect that the main cause might be because the main hard drive my OS is on is dying. Would that be the probable cause? Go download Crystal Disk Info and see if it shows a caution or warning on your OS drive. If it does, turn off and discontinue using the computer immediately, then once you get a replacement drive you can attempt to copy all your data off the failing one.
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Dec 23, 2018 02:27
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