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Was super excited to install my new Tarozzi rearsets. Got the brake side on with no problem, though it was a little bit of a PITA since the diagram didn't explain one of the parts.  When I put together the shifter side, though, the kit turned out to be missing one loving piece, a special connector for the shift linkage.  The vendor was cool and is fast-shipping that part for me. For now I have a goofy riding posture with a rearset brake pedal and a stock shifter, because gently caress re-doing the brake pedal assembly.  Of course, my ride looks sexy from the right hand side.
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Jul 6, 2012 20:12
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What no pics? How much were they?
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Jul 7, 2012 01:25
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Shoved the engine back in the Goldwing frame. Easily done solo with the cycle jack. I look forward to firing it up later this weekend after a 3 year rest.
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Jul 7, 2012 08:13
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I changed the oil. I was going to replace the fuel line, but apparently the one I saw on the message boards was the wrong size.  I replaced the clamp at least, which seems to have helped the leak problem, at least for now. I may have my front brake too tight though, as it was a bit of a pain to wheel my ride back to its home. Or this could be atributed to my front shocks, which are clearly leaking a bit, both oil and air. I'm still waiting for my trickle charger though. Damnit I just want to ride!
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Jul 7, 2012 23:50
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Did a throttle position sensor reset on the ol' Ulysses. I have yet to even test ride the new setting. I did it because I get some bucking and surging on decel and cruise. Hopefully this takes care of it. e: Yep, all better. No more obnoxious miss at 3k. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Jul 8, 2012 |
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Jul 8, 2012 01:59
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I'm halfway through installing Convertibars™ on my Ninja ZX10R, because I am old and can't do the racer-tuck pose for very long. Well actually I'm pretty much done with the bars, but now I need a longer front brake line, so I'm going to have to learn about brake lines as a consequence. Since I'm going to be putting new lines in anyway, I'm thinking I'll get some fancy color-matched steel braided lines. Good thing I have another bike to ride while I take this one apart and fumble around because I have no idea what I'm doing.
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Jul 8, 2012 03:17
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deliverator posted:I'm halfway through installing Convertibars™ on my Ninja ZX10R, because I am old and can't do the racer-tuck pose for very long. Well actually I'm pretty much done with the bars, but now I need a longer front brake line, so I'm going to have to learn about brake lines as a consequence. Since I'm going to be putting new lines in anyway, I'm thinking I'll get some fancy color-matched steel braided lines. Depending on your location, Galfer has always been great with me about extended lines. I think the form is available on their website, you can request stock ZX10R SS lines with +X number of inches. I'm running them on my SV with the GSX-R front end and they're great.
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Jul 8, 2012 03:18
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Replaced a clutch cable. But it's actually a bit of a story. I got a call from a buddy with the same type of scooter, a Genuine Stella, saying that his clutch cable broke and asking if I could come help. "I have a spare cable and tools," I said, adding the warning "but I'm a lovely mechanic and I've never done this before. For all the talk vintage scooter and Stella riders have about cables breaking, I've somehow never had one snap in the few years and many miles I've done." "We're both smart guys. We can figure it out." said he. I get down there and we get to it, and between the two of us and a how-to guide I pulled up on my phone we're making steady progress. We get his new cable in and then realize that the pinch bolt is messed up. I ride back up to my garage to fetch one. As I pull up, I clutch in and feel something odd - a shudder in the lever, maybe. I clutch in again to shift into neutral. And my loving clutch cable snaps. So now he's most of the way to being mobile - thanks to my only spare clutch cable - and I've taken his place as the scooter broken-down between the greasy cafe and the art college dorms. I wanted to laugh and also cry. We ended up calling in additional help (a local scooterist who is actually one of the top vintage Vespa guys in the US and an all-around nice dude, Rob Hodge of Hodgespeed). He rolls up on an odd '74 Bajaj Chetak with the perfect tools for the job and changes my clutch cable in about 3 minutes and adjusts my buddy's in half of one and we're on our way. Fuckin' a, man. Gay Nudist Dad fucked around with this message at 07:36 on Jul 8, 2012 |
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Jul 8, 2012 07:32
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Actually rode it! Weather's been poo poo, I've been sick and working to much to be hosed doing anything more than commute. But four-day weekend, sunny skies and a friend who wanted a go on the back so I went out for a nice cruise. Very lovely indeed. Plus, my friend is now keen to get her licence and a bike 
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Jul 8, 2012 12:00
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Actually rode it! Weather's been poo poo... Hah! Me too man, it's been terrible weather for weeks here, finally caught a break and got out for a couple of hours with a friend from work. Much fun was had
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Jul 8, 2012 22:38
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Puzzled over why the ol' thumper would crank but not start for a few hours with fresh gas in it. It's getting fuel. It's getting air. It's getting spark. What the gently caress!?  THEN I remembered I have to drain the old poo poo out of the float bowl too. Fired right up!
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Jul 9, 2012 00:28
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:scooter clutch cable story The irony is so thick you could cut it with a knife. Good story though.
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Jul 9, 2012 15:12
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kenny powerzzz posted:What no pics? How much were they? I'll post pics when the pegs are on. Tarozzi rearsets are plug-n-play for my old bike, but they are spendy -- $300 for the set. So when the kit is ONE loving PIECE FROM NOT BEING WORTHLESS, tempers flare. . . . It's cool though, Fast from the Past already sent the missing part. It should come in today.
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Jul 9, 2012 16:18
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I replaced the headlight on the XL175. The new one doesn't work either so I guess it's multimeter time. This loving bike. It was supposed to be the good one, the DT175 was supposed to be the rickety ol' bucket.
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Jul 9, 2012 19:30
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I FINALLY got my trickle charger. I hooked that mother up to the battery, and now it's simmering overnight. With any luck I'll be able to ride my drat bike soon!
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Jul 10, 2012 01:52
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The wife got her pipes back from the industrial coating place. Ceramic coated satin black. I helped wrestle everything together. They look awesome.
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Jul 10, 2012 19:20
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Finally got the oil filler cap replacement, as the original dicided to fly off the loving bike while I was riding somehere and is now in some other dimension. New oil, replaced the fork oil too which was really really black, and the forks were compeltely off-balance. Replaced front and rear brakes. All thats left is to fully tighten the front axle and remove all decals! whoo progress 
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Jul 10, 2012 19:45
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Oil change, suspension set-up properly and heated grips fitted. Guy who sorted the suspension says I've hosed my head-race bearings allready, after only 3300miles... London potholes :/
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Jul 10, 2012 22:36
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https://www.allballsracing.com/ get their steering stem bearings. do it.
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Jul 10, 2012 22:41
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:https://www.allballsracing.com/ Any idea how All Balls wheel bearings hold up? I wanted to replace them front and rear on my Uly before Sturgis (the model is known to chew up wheel bearings) and an All Balls set costs about half what an OEM set will.
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Jul 10, 2012 22:43
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New tire time for the VFR, interestingly you can prop it onto the center stand, and then use a jack with a piece of wood or a brick like I used and lift it from the slightly exposed headers below the fairing, both wheels are off the ground so you can do both at once. Yeah i'm using a bucket of cement and an old broken printer to rest the brake calipers on. Old dunlop 204s or whatever, I really didn't like these tires at all, glad they finally wore out!   
infraboy fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Jul 10, 2012 |
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Jul 10, 2012 23:01
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clutchpuck posted:Any idea how All Balls wheel bearings hold up? I wanted to replace them front and rear on my Uly before Sturgis (the model is known to chew up wheel bearings) and an All Balls set costs about half what an OEM set will. From what I've heard, they will likely outlast your bike. That is to say, they are stout. I can second that they are indeed tough, but I wouldn't trust them to outlast the bike by any means. I'd replace them just as often as OEM ones.
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Jul 10, 2012 23:04
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:From what I've heard, they will likely outlast your bike. I'm more about limiting costs and sticking with reasonable intervals than stretching my maintenance schedule. Was just wondering if they have a reputation for holding up OK - the Uly's wall of torque and frequent off-pavement use are serious business enough that Buell went with an extra bearing on the rear wheel for the 2010 model - so I need something pretty resilient on my 2-bearing wheel. This is good to hear.
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Jul 10, 2012 23:50
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EDIT: Wrong thread dammit.
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Jul 11, 2012 00:38
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I found a mess of oily dirty sludge allover this part of my bike (not a major leak, just more than I would have liked on my 10k odometer). Called my dad to let him know I prolly had to replace the gasket on this cover and he told me to check the bolts for tightness.  (stock photo) The very top one was finger loose  who knows how long or why. Hope it's problem solved with all the tightening I did.
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Jul 11, 2012 07:04
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clutchpuck posted:I'm more about limiting costs and sticking with reasonable intervals than stretching my maintenance schedule. Was just wondering if they have a reputation for holding up OK - the Uly's wall of torque and frequent off-pavement use are serious business enough that Buell went with an extra bearing on the rear wheel for the 2010 model - so I need something pretty resilient on my 2-bearing wheel. This is good to hear. Just as another option, SKF makes KILLER bearings. They cost a pretty penny but I have yet to find anything more durable or efficient. Mind you a lot of their bearings I've used were for 40 year old motors but I'm sure that build quality extrapolates to newer bike wheel bearings as well.
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Jul 11, 2012 14:40
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Just as another option, SKF makes KILLER bearings. Thanks for the advice, I ordered front and rear bearing sets from All Balls via some random reseller via Amazon. Pretty cheap with free shipping. Anyhow, last night I wrestled with rusty/dirty exhaust bolts and took the muffler and elbow pipe off in preparation for putting the Uly on the lift to get at the fuel pump. Took those home and cleaned and buffed each piece. It's giving me false fuel reserve indication, which points to the wiring being chewed up inside the frame. So I have to take the pump out, diagnose, and fix what I find. Might as well do a fuel filter and lube any moving bits while I'm in there, too. There's an oil line going right where I want to jack up the bike, so I routed a channel through a bit of trex decking scrap I have from mounting my panniers to use as a jack spacer. I would love to find a stock exhaust to put on it, the factory can is a combination jack point and skid plate; the Jardine is cardboard in comparison. Hopefully tonight I can get around to securing it off the ground, unhooking the shock, draining the last half gallon or so of fuel, and removing the pump assembly.
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Jul 12, 2012 19:37
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clutchpuck posted:I would love to find a stock exhaust to put on it, the factory can is a combination jack point and skid plate; the Jardine is cardboard in comparison. Hmm.. I have my stocker kicking around just in case my CF Jardine blows out. As long as shipping isn't too bad on this heavy bastard I'd be willing to swap, seeing as I don't have the exhaust servo or stock ECU so the stock pipe won't do me any favors. If you're interested email me at mike.nln (at) Gmail (dot) com. I'm also interested in how hard the wheel Bering replacement is. Ever since I found out that it was an issue I've been wondering about it. Does it require a Bering press?
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Jul 13, 2012 02:55
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Had to get a new rear tire for my Ninja ZX10. Ran over another nail. For those keeping count, that's 5 flats in 3 years of riding. And I had my chicken strips almost completely scrubbed off. Now I gotta start all over. The shop had no more of the OEM tire so they talked me into the Michelin Pilot Power 2CT. I think it has a way different shape than the old one, looks like a hemisphere in profile, meaning I'll have to get drat near horizontal to get any contact on those edges. 
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Jul 13, 2012 04:36
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I took off the rear side panels, the rear panel, the tailight assembly off my Ninja 250 so I could fit my new Corbin seat. I put everything back together but ended up with two extra bolts. No idea where they go! Hope nothing falls off while I ride.
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Jul 13, 2012 06:15
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Stormangel posted:I'm also interested in how hard the wheel Bering replacement is. Ever since I found out that it was an issue I've been wondering about it. Does it require a Bering press? I plan to make a press out of some more left over trex, nuts, washers, and a threaded rod. Tonight I lifted it, disconnected the shock from the swing arm (this joint is going to get some lube before it goes back together), disconnected the fuel pump wiring, and depressurized the lines. It got dark and I want to be fresh and alert for the draining fuel bit, it looks like the only way to do it is to make a huge mess.  That six-point bolt in the center-bottom of the fuel pump is the drain plug. Fuel is going to run all over everything. I figure I'll put a funnel to a fuel can under everything and do my best to mitigate. Also the fuel pump external wiring sheath is in bad shape. It needs to be replaced.
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Jul 13, 2012 07:05
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clutchpuck posted:I plan to make a press out of some more left over trex, nuts, washers, and a threaded rod. For tough to reach spots like that I bought a kitchen spatula that has a slight curve in the handle. Put the spatula part under the oil drain (fuel pump in your case) and let the oil (or fuel) run down the channel into a container. You might need to re-shape the spatula a bit first. Hit it with a propane torch and squish it into a U-shape with some c-clamps. Keep it held that way with a cable tie and you're good to go.
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Jul 13, 2012 15:00
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Some 5mm clear aquarium tubing dropped into the tank should allow you to syphon off the remaining fuel, even from the tighter corners. Make sure to get clear stuff so you can see the fuel before it gets to your mouth though
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Jul 13, 2012 15:24
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:For tough to reach spots like that I bought a kitchen spatula that has a slight curve in the handle. Put the spatula part under the oil drain (fuel pump in your case) and let the oil (or fuel) run down the channel into a container. You can also try cutting a plastic bottle or jug to make a scoop for this. Pick one with a bottom that fits in the tight space and then cut the bottle at an angle. You can also drill the cap to fit a hose if you need the drained liquid to travel more to reach the destination container. HTH
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Jul 13, 2012 16:20
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Ideally you want to find something that will fit over the bolt and allow you to get a socket on it from inside the mouth of the bottle.
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Jul 13, 2012 16:29
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ReelBigLizard posted:Some 5mm clear aquarium tubing dropped into the tank should allow you to syphon off the remaining fuel, even from the tighter corners. Make sure to get clear stuff so you can see the fuel before it gets to your mouth though I've done this after riding it about 20 miles into reserve. Pulled about 3 liters out. I know there's still some in there. I can definitely cut up a milk jug to fit under it, that might be a good approach.
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Jul 13, 2012 17:00
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Tamir Lenk posted:You can also try cutting a plastic bottle or jug to make a scoop for this. Pick one with a bottom that fits in the tight space and then cut the bottle at an angle. You can also drill the cap to fit a hose if you need the drained liquid to travel more to reach the destination container. I used to use water bottles but I had to hold them there. The spatula is long enough that it can set in the bottom of my catch can and support itself. Drainage is now hands free 
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Jul 13, 2012 17:05
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Tamir Lenk posted:I'll post pics when the pegs are on. Tarozzi rearsets are plug-n-play for my old bike, but they are spendy -- $300 for the set. So when the kit is ONE loving PIECE FROM NOT BEING WORTHLESS, tempers flare. . . . Well the part took longer to get here, but I finally got the Tarozzis on. Still getting used to the new positioning, and I need to adjust the brake side to rotate the lever up a bit. I like the look of these sets for sure.  
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Jul 13, 2012 18:13
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Finally got around to checking the valves on my GS500. I had been putting it off and off because when I first tried, it seemed a bit overwhelming. It's 500 miles overdue, and since I had no clue if it was checked by the dealership that I bought it at, I finally got it done. Only took 3 hours and everything was in spec, one valve is getting close and will probably need to be changed next time around. Feels better than paying a shop $200+ to do it.
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Jul 14, 2012 23:24
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I pulled the fuel pump off and made a mitigated mess with gasoline. Getting the pump assembly out was a little fiddly but straightforward, even without the special tool and with the swing-arm still attached. That yellow/red wire is connected to the low fuel light sensor. I think that's why the low fuel light comes on with a full tank. I'll fix that and file down some of the pump chassis there to discourage more chafing while I wait for the o-rings, strainer, and fuel filter to arrive.  Nice thing about working on the Buell is that everything is fairly uncomplicated. Also got the Beemer's new quick-disconnects installed and the Power Commander wiring routed and connected. Just have to mount the PC and zip-tie the wiring to the frame. I am missing awesome weather right now with the bike offline but I need to get it ready for Sturgis. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Jul 15, 2012 |
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Jul 15, 2012 06:13
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