|
biscuitbandit posted:Like a couple of other folks in this thread I'm looking at upgrading an aging i5 2500K system by adding another 8 gig of RAM (to take it to 16) and a 1060 6GB. Might add a new cooler too and OC a touch. You will feel the CPU speed in some highly CPU limited games like Stellaris and Warhammer, and not at all in others like Doom. I wouldn't upgrade the RAMl, 16GB isn't that big of a deal vs 8GB. You didn't note what you were using as a hard disk, if that isn't an SSD yet that'd be a better place to add some performance to your PC. And as an added bonus you can re-use the SSD if you were to change out your motherboard/CPU while you'd have to toss the RAM.
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2016 19:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 21:04 |
|
|
Darkoni posted:Hey guys It's my first time building a new computer and I have no idea what parts are good. I have two lists from pc part picker that are identical, excepting the mobo and the cpu. As mmkay mentioned, the standard course of action right now is to go with Socket 1151 and a 6000-series ("Skylake") Intel processor. Your first build is a previous generation of Intel kit, so unless you're able to get some firesale prices on those parts it would be better to move up. The sweet spot for price:performance is to get an i5-6600K, Z170 motherboard and aftermarket cooler so you can overclock with a quad-core, but that is more expensive than the examples you've given. A cheaper approach is to get something like the i3-6100 and use the stock cooler, which could still be combined with a Z170 board to allow an upgrade to overclockability later or an H110/B150/H170 motherboard to save more money depending on what features you care about. AMD systems are not really recommended at this point unless you are building a gaming system on such a tight budget that you can't afford any current Intel processor and a $100 GPU; in that case, their superior integrated GPUs are worth considering. Their CPU performance is far behind though, so with any worthwhile discrete GPU they are not competitive. This will hopefully change with their next generation of high-end desktop chips. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Nov 16, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2016 19:20
|
|
|
Between Microcenter's CPU deals and Newegg ram discounts this seems to be the week for buying a new computer. How's this look for a general web browsing computer / platform for later i5 / 1060 upgrades? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($99.99) Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($39.99) Memory: Team Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($64.99) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Core 1100 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: FSP Group 400W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($61.30 @ Newegg) Total: $391.25 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-16 13:28 EST-0500 Ram is a placeholder for a same brand 2400 kit on Newegg that PCPP doesn't have listed.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2016 19:36
|
|
|
Hey folks, I have a new GTX 1080. Plugged it in and switched my computer on, and it lights up and fans come on, but it doesn't get further than the motherboard screen. Computer is fine when I turn it on without the card plugged in (and the screen plugged into the onboard graphics). I've seen it said the 1080 needs at least 500w but can't actually find a citation. It happens to be the case that my PSU (OCZ OCZ-CXS500W-UK CoreXStream Series) is *precisely* 500w. Do I need a new PSU? Or might I have some other problem? If I need a new PSU would appreciate a recommendation :o and sorry if this is more a "hardware problem"
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2016 19:42
|
|
|
peak debt posted:You will feel the CPU speed in some highly CPU limited games like Stellaris and Warhammer, and not at all in others like Doom. If he's overclocking it will be minimal. Overclocked it's maybe 10-20% behind current stuff from what I gather. I agree on the SSD, but $25 for a cooler and a GPU upgrade should get you most of the way there. RAM is cheap and isn't a bad idea if you're getting the fast stuff. The ever quoted 2500k article: http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/digitalfoundry-2016-is-it-finally-time-to-upgrade-your-core-i5-2500k Inverse square posted:Hey folks, I have a new GTX 1080. Plugged it in and switched my computer on, and it lights up and fans come on, but it doesn't get further than the motherboard screen. Computer is fine when I turn it on without the card plugged in (and the screen plugged into the onboard graphics). Did you uninstall your display drivers before installing the card? The card isn't going to be using that much power just booting, it's something else.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2016 19:46
|
|
|
Eletriarnation posted:I have a 2500K at 4.4GHz with 16GB of DDR3-2133MHz and recently upgraded from a Radeon 7850 2GB to a 1060 6GB. From reviews I expected this to be about a 2.5x increase in performance and that's about what I got so I would confidently recommend this course of action. That's good to know, thank you. peak debt posted:You will feel the CPU speed in some highly CPU limited games like Stellaris and Warhammer, and not at all in others like Doom. OK, cheers. Yeah I should have mentioned, already have an SSD, albeit an older Crucial M4, so might spring for one of the Samsung 850 EVO drives, just depends on how much I can justify it...
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2016 19:50
|
|
|
Inverse square posted:Hey folks, I have a new GTX 1080. Plugged it in and switched my computer on, and it lights up and fans come on, but it doesn't get further than the motherboard screen. Computer is fine when I turn it on without the card plugged in (and the screen plugged into the onboard graphics). Did you plug in both external power connectors on the graphics card? Because if they are plugged in and the PSU is too weak, the PC should still boot, it might simply crash when you try to launch a game. Then again OCZ is pretty high up on the list of manufacturers never to buy stuff from so it might be their fault. Maybe one of the power cables that connects to the graphics card is defective and doesn't deliver power?
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2016 19:50
|
|
|
Inverse square posted:I've seen it said the 1080 needs at least 500w but can't actually find a citation. It happens to be the case that my PSU (OCZ OCZ-CXS500W-UK CoreXStream Series) is *precisely* 500w. The statement you read is probably that a 500W power supply is recommended, because they can't be sure how much power you're using already and how close to its limit your PSU can safely be pushed. The 1080 itself is rated to only use 180W though, so unless the rest of your system is using 300W+ your PSU should be adequate. If you're not sure you can post a list of the highlights here and we can probably give you a good idea how much power it uses.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2016 20:23
|
|
|
For any would-be builders, the PNY GTX 1060 6GB is on sale at Newegg right now for $240 — comes with a $20 MIR to bring it down to $220. If you have an AMEX or Bluebird card, you can get a $25 statement credit with their current Newegg offer to bring the total down to $195 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133631&cm_re=PNY_1060_6GB-_-14-133-631-_-Product Comes with a lifetime warranty too. Sale ends Monday 
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2016 21:56
|
|
|
Okay, tested the graphics card in the first PCIe slot, and it fits... Barely. Is the backplate of the card too close to the CPU cooler or will that be fine? Nothing is *quite* touching, but its very close, maybe 1-2 mm 
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2016 22:49
|
|
|
The Slack Lagoon posted:Okay, tested the graphics card in the first PCIe slot, and it fits... Barely. Is the backplate of the card too close to the CPU cooler or will that be fine? Nothing is *quite* touching, but its very close, maybe 1-2 mm Neither the backplate nor the heatsink carry a current of any sort, it's fine. They could be touching and it wouldn't really matter as long as the mounting points weren't being overly stressed.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2016 22:53
|
|
|
Yup it'd probably be fine if they touched and nothing was being seriously stressed. Definitely it's fine like that with them just close together.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2016 23:00
|
|
|
Welp, I will say that the lights on the graphics card come on. I just tried getting rid of the old drivers, no luck 
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2016 23:53
|
|
|
The Slack Lagoon posted:Okay, tested the graphics card in the first PCIe slot, and it fits... Barely. Is the backplate of the card too close to the CPU cooler or will that be fine? Nothing is *quite* touching, but its very close, maybe 1-2 mm It'll be fine. You won't have to worry about thermals, either - if anything, the closeness to the twin 140s on the Noctua will put more airflow over the back of the 1070.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 00:20
|
|
|
teagone posted:For any would-be builders, the PNY GTX 1060 6GB is on sale at Newegg right now for $240 — comes with a $20 MIR to bring it down to $220. If you have an AMEX or Bluebird card, you can get a $25 statement credit with their current Newegg offer to bring the total down to $195 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133631&cm_re=PNY_1060_6GB-_-14-133-631-_-Product Oh poo poo, I'll probably move on this. Thanks! I'm having a hard time settling on a mobo. I know that this (ASRock Pro4S) is a mini-ATX board, but what am I losing if I jam it in a mid tower? What would I be losing over the Asus Z170-AR, which runs about $50 more expensive? Is the smaller mobo that much harder to work with? Is Asus just a more reliable manufacturer? With all these sales, I have some headroom in my budget, but still don't want to waste money. Also, 550w is right for a 6600k/GTX 1060 system, right? It's a $10 price difference, but it's my understanding that having a bigger power supply that is necessary can diminish efficiency. Sorry, I know this has been asked plenty. EDIT: One more. Anyone have experience with Microcenter open box poo poo? The prices are sorta great. Boxman fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Nov 17, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 00:56
|
|
|
Boxman posted:Oh poo poo, I'll probably move on this. Thanks! 550W is fine unless you're running a pirated Blu-Ray burning operation, are overclocked to the point where you can boil water on the heatsink, and have multiple HDDs and BD-R drives running concurrently, almost 24/7, or have enough case fans running to allow your case to hover. Also, with PNY cards, be sure to register them within 90 days for the 'lifetime' warranty. Their 'lifetime warranty' used to be for the 'shelf lifetime' of the card, but as of last January, they've revised their legalese to resemble a true lifetime warranty, albeit with a few caveats that give them a good deal of leeway on exactly *how* they can choose to honor it or not: https://www.pny.com/File%20Library/Support/PNY%20Products/Warranties/GeForce%20Graphics/GeForce-Graphics-Cards-Warranty.pdf
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 01:10
|
|
|
verybad posted:I'm looking for a silent gaming pc for around 800-1000 €.I could get the following for 990 €: The parts you selected look fine to me. I get the feeling that 4GB of memory in a video card is kind of the floor for future gaming, so I wouldn't recommend dropping to a 3GB card, even though the Define R5 is (by all accounts) a wonderful case. ItBreathes posted:Between Microcenter's CPU deals and Newegg ram discounts this seems to be the week for buying a new computer. How's this look for a general web browsing computer / platform for later i5 / 1060 upgrades? Two things: (1) If you're planning to get overclocked RAM, might as well go to DDR4-3000 or higher. The cost jump from 2133 to 3000 isn't that much, so I can't imagine the cost jump from 2400 to 3000 is extreme. (2) I'm not familiar with the manufacturer of your PSU. That makes me a bit nervous, but perhaps someone else can jump in and say that this is a brand with a good reputation for reliability. Grundulum fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Nov 17, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 01:11
|
|
|
So in the BIOS if I set the ram speed to its xmp (ddr4 3000) profile it sets the BCLK to 125 and core multiplier to 31 (from 100 and 34 respectively). Is that fine? Any articles where I can read up on this?
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 01:12
|
|
|
Boxman posted:Also, 550w is right for a 6600k/GTX 1060 system, right? It's a $10 price difference, but it's my understanding that having a bigger power supply that is necessary can diminish efficiency. Having a much bigger power supply than is necessary will reduce efficiency, but the sweet spot is actually at around 50% load and running the power supply near its limit is usually comparably inefficient to having a very small load. A 6600k/1060 system (with a few hard drives) that isn't too far overclocked will probably use around 250-300W under a heavy load, so 550W is a great size for the PSU.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 01:17
|
|
|
Grundulum posted:(2) I'm not familiar with the manufacturer of your PSU. That makes me a bit nervous, but perhaps someone else can jump in and say that this is a brand with a good reputation for reliability. FSP is a big maker of OEM power supply units. They wouldn't be my first choice for a build, but they're not bad at all, especially if rated at 80+ Gold. The Slack Lagoon posted:So in the BIOS if I set the ram speed to its xmp (ddr4 3000) profile it sets the BCLK to 125 and core multiplier to 31 (from 100 and 34 respectively). Is that fine? Any articles where I can read up on this? Try setting the speed and timings manually. Here is a page for an ASUS X99 board with people who were able to get back to a 100Mhz BCLK: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?79065-Change-BCLK-to-100MHz-from-XMP-AUTO-125MHz And a thread about it on Corsair's forums: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?p=793946 BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Nov 17, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 01:20
|
|
|
Just installed the 1060 and everything is ok. Are the drivers you get from windows update good enough or should I get the proper driver's from EVGA? Also, what's the latest 3d benchmark app that gives me a nice 3d show too. Is 3dmark still around?
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 04:28
|
|
|
Housh posted:Just installed the 1060 and everything is ok. Are the drivers you get from windows update good enough or should I get the proper driver's from EVGA? You can still manually install them, but the newest ones evidently are a bit buggy and will probably be hotfixed by tomorrow. EVGA's drivers are generally a bit behind the newest ones.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 04:34
|
|
|
Alright, so this is my Holiday build right now. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($235.49 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus Z170-E ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($93.99 @ Newegg) Storage: PNY CS1311 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($39.99 @ Best Buy) Power Supply: EVGA 700W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg) Total: $564.23 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-16 22:58 EST-0500 I do 1080p gaming now, but I'm considering the jump to 1440p within two years. Questions: 1) Is buying a 480 8GB now and adding another later for 1440p dumb? 2) Should I drop the cash for a 1070 now for future-proofing? 3) Am I overthinking this and should just get a 1060 6GB? 4) Is this power supply a bad idea?
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 05:06
|
|
|
Muffin Rhino posted:Alright, so this is my Holiday build right now. (1) Yes. Pretty sure that SLI/Crossfire isn't nearly as good as just buying a better card. (2) You could buy a 1050Ti instead and resell it when you can't stand it any more. By that point you could snag an on-sale 1070, a gently used one, a new one if your budget allows, or maybe even an 1160. Then turn around and sell the 1050 Ti for some extra help with the upgrade. (3) See above. Personally, if my budget allowed I would buy the 1070 now. (4) That's a big power supply for one CPU and one GPU. You could drop down to 550W easily if you abandoned the idea of dual GPUs. That price is tough to beat, though Edit for more thoughts on the PSU: non-modular, bronze-certified, and a 2- or 3-year warranty? That explains why the price was so nice. Everything else about that PSU screams  . I'd really recommend looking back for one of BIG HEADLINE's posts where he lists a few PSUs with much better features. It's worth spending an extra $30-40 on a PSU that will last for the life of the computer while still under warranty. And modularity makes cable management much easier.
Grundulum fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Nov 17, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 05:31
|
|
|
Outside of the obvious (currently subjective) advantage it will have for gaming with dx 12, is there any other real reason to get w10?
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 06:10
|
|
|
Killer_B posted:Outside of the obvious (currently subjective) advantage it will have for gaming with dx 12 Even that's a clusterfuck right now, plenty of games that offer DX12 modes perform worse or have new bugs in that mode. No doubt Microsoft apologists will bundle in to the thread in a moment to tell you how Windows 10 is so great, and you're a filthy Luddite if you didn't upgrade already, but in reality it doesn't matter. If you have Windows 7 on your machine right now and you're happy, it's still supported with security updates until 2020, so as long as you have a plan for then, it's up to you. There could possibly be some features in Windows 10 you could appreciate, though, so you'd do yourself a service by asking the same question in the Windows 10 thread or by having a look at new features on Wikipedia, for example. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Nov 17, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 07:07
|
|
|
Not sure of the best place to put it, but I am looking for a good HDMI switch. I don't need poo poo like Front Facing LEDs or Auto Switching (and kind of don't want it), and don't need a stupid remote either. Is there any out there with 5+ hdmi outputs, is HDMI 2.1 or whatever compatible, and maybe has audio return channels or equalization?
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 07:41
|
|
|
Killer_B posted:Outside of the obvious (currently subjective) advantage it will have for gaming with dx 12, is there any other real reason to get w10? The one cool feature I like about Windows 10 is the automatic left/right snapping on the monitor that allows me to comfortably use a 34" gaming monitor as a "dualscreen" setup for work. Other than that it's a pile of poo poo
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 09:03
|
|
|
Windows 10 is perfectly fine and with the exception of legacy software there's little to no reason not to get it. Minor performance benefits, regular security updates. There's little not to like. If you absolutely cannot stand Windows 10... Adapt. At the very least install 8.1 and startisback.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 09:12
|
|
Cat Army 
|
The Iron Rose posted:If you absolutely cannot stand Windows 10... Adapt. This is the kind of comment I'm talking about, there's no point in telling someone what they should do, when it's not like using a fully supported OS is "unsafe", they have a free choice. If there were no more security updates to 7, then sure, that would make sense. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Nov 17, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 09:40
|
|
|
The red-spreadered 2x8 Corsair LPX kit is $83.99 today on Shell Shocker (a whole  savings): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233863
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 10:01
|
|
|
Housh posted:Just installed the 1060 and everything is ok. Are the drivers you get from windows update good enough or should I get the proper driver's from EVGA? Use the nVidia drivers. You can avoid the GEFORCE EXPERIENCE if you want to, but on mid-range cards their suggested settings are actually pretty solid. It's the easiest way to enable/use DSR on older games HalloKitty posted:This is the kind of comment I'm talking about, there's no point in telling someone what they should do, when it's not like using a fully supported OS is "unsafe", they have a free choice. If there were no more security updates to 7, then sure, that would make sense. 7 is safe to use, there's just no reason to, and not moving to 10 now will just make you have to pay for it later.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 11:15
|
|
|
So by changing a very random BIOS setting to "legacy" I have made it so that the computer gives me the sign "please power down and connect the pcie power cables for this graphics card". Here's what there is: -Two 8-pin sockets on the side of the card (Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Xtreme Edition) -A plug coming out of my PSU that has 2 6-pin plugs and one 2-pin one -A converter that takes two 6-pin sockets to a single 8-pin plug I have tried every combination of insertions (hurr hurr). The obvious one is the two 6-pins into the converter, which goes into one of the 8-pin sockets. Still gives the sign.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 12:58
|
|
|
So, my last build was a disaster, I think I messed something up while building it and it's never been Quite Right and is rapidly getting worse (long, long story, but I've done probably every troubleshooting thing you'd suggest, up to and including trying to replace parts with old Known Good ones and nothing's fixed the gremlins- this drat desktop is just Screwed Up By Builder/Me) so after only 2 years I am looking to replace my workhorse desktop. Use case is a decent amount of gaming at 1080p, and I like things to be pretty, but after a few bad experiences in high school and college I have no desire to ever even sidle up curiously to overclocking anymore. That's been literally burnt out of me. I have a solid few storage drives that I'll be using, so this hard drive is mostly for loading and a few high-use games. This is my current candidate. CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock H170A-X1/3.1 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($79.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($77.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($164.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING Video Card ($389.99 @ B&H) Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($52.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Antec EarthWatts Platinum 650W 80+ Platinum Certified ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.88 @ OutletPC) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($85.00 @ Amazon) Total: $1184.80 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-17 06:55 EST-0500 The "problem" is that I was hoping to keep to a budget of 1,000$ since it's only been two years. I can do that- just- if I descope to a 1060 6GB card, a 750 EVO-series 500 GB hard drive, and a 550 W power supply. But, with Black Friday looming, I don't have a good feel for if any of these are going to see price drops that are likely to bring it close to my target price. I saw that the 1060-6GB has already gotten a price cut ending this weekend, and if I'm going to cut down to size I'd rather not miss that. So, my options are: -Get this system at ~1200$ now and save myself a full week of dealing with this computer that is very rapidly nearing its end of life at the cost of breaking my budget -Wait and hope I can scrounge together enough Black Friday deals to get this build under ~1100$ (I can't/won't wait longer than that) and accept the risk of this computer dying sooner than I think and also not getting significant deals above what I could get right now -Descope to the 1060-based system and pull the trigger on the current deal to get in under my nominal budget of $1k Struggling with which to do, which is one of the reasons I'm posting; if anyone has suggestions about deals / just how much better this is going to be than a 1060-based system /wild card options, I am all ears. Mukaikubo fucked around with this message at 13:05 on Nov 17, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 13:01
|
|
|
Do you live near a Microcenter? They've got some sweet combo deals going on right now with CPUs and motherboards. Additionally, it appears that both your SSD and your GPU choices will come with codes for Watch Dogs 2 (BIG HEADLINE) posted a little bit earlier in the thread about this. So you can turn around and resell those codes to recoup some of the cost. You're also completely safe dropping to the 550W power supply to save some money, regardless of what you do with the other components -- my guess is you're looking at about 300W of peak power draw, and a 550W is plenty for that amount. Edit: you could save yourself another $20-25 by dropping to the i5-6500. Grundulum fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Nov 17, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 13:18
|
|
|
Inverse square posted:So by changing a very random BIOS setting to "legacy" I have made it so that the computer gives me the sign "please power down and connect the pcie power cables for this graphics card". If your GFX card has two 8-pin sockets on it then you need to plug two 8-pin cables from your PSU into them (6+2-pin works fine as well) - it sounds as though your PSU doesn't have these. [edit] Just looked at the specs of you PSU - you need a new one as it doesn't have the two 8-pin (or two 6+2-pin) connectors you need.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 13:22
|
|
|
Grundulum posted:Do you live near a Microcenter? They've got some sweet combo deals going on right now with CPUs and motherboards. Additionally, it appears that both your SSD and your GPU choices will come with codes for Watch Dogs 2 (BIG HEADLINE) posted a little bit earlier in the thread about this. So you can turn around and resell those codes to recoup some of the cost. Nope, none appear to be within a 4 hour drive of me alas. Also, my rule of thumb's always been to double the power draw pcpartpicker tells me I have to give me a comfortable margin and 50% nominal duty cycle, which is why I picked the 650W instead of the 550W. Only a 10$ savings, but every bit helps.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 13:23
|
|
|
Dead Goon posted:[edit] Just looked at the specs of you PSU - you need a new one as it doesn't have the two 8-pin (or two 6+2-pin) connectors you need.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 13:27
|
|
|
Mukaikubo posted:Struggling with which to do, which is one of the reasons I'm posting; if anyone has suggestions about deals / just how much better this is going to be than a 1060-based system /wild card options, I am all ears. I'm of the mind a 1070 paired to a non-K chip / h-board and 2133 RAM is money thrown against the wall. Stick with a 6Gb 1060 as it'll sort you out for 1080p. If you're chasing higher FPS than 60 look at the k-cpu and better RAM/mobo. If you're looking for higher resolutions (1440p) then a 1070 would be utilised better. I don't know when HS/college was for you, but overclocking skylake is very easy; it's largely automated unless you're chasing the last possible 100Mhz.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 13:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 21:04 |
|
|
Inverse square posted:Thanks a lot. What PSU is recommended here? I'm in the UK and buy things out of my expenses so price doesn't matter. In spite of the crazy graphics card, I do not intend to overclock or SLI. http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/rmx-series-rm750x-750-watt-80-plus-gold-certified-fully-modular-psu Hard to beat at the moment. 750W is overkill, but OTOH that means it will be cool, reliable and almost silent under your load levels.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 13:34
|
|