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You should try and test out the cooled seats to see if they are actually cooled, or just have a fan blowing through them which is less useful. AFAIK the BMW/Audi ones are just a fan and pretty much useless while the Ford, CHrysler and GM (in the Escalade anyway, not sure about the others) ones actually have some kind of cooling element in them and work much better. That being said I think you're really looking for a Grand Cherokee. The regular 5.7l with the 8 speeds are pretty fast, and with the air suspension you can get 11.4" of ground clearance, but a GC with all that poo poo is going to be pretty expensive.
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Nov 24, 2013 17:14
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I agree, a Grand Cherokee would fit the bill perfectly, and the lease rates don't look terrible.
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Nov 24, 2013 23:59
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I've got the opportunity to pick up a 2013 Focus Titanium with only 2300 miles. Clean carfax report, with the only item on the report being that at 200 miles: "body electrical wiring repaired". 2100 miles later, the owner traded it into a Nissan shop for a 370z. I can get it out the door for $22k before any real negotiation. Is this a red-flag? I googled around for "Ford Focus Problems" and got a ton of people raising hell about the transmission. Lots of Focus drivers out there with the exact same symptoms of the transmission doing wildly terrible things: jerking about, not being able to decide on a gear, being hesitant in low speed traffic. But I love the body style and the technical whizbangery of the MyFord Touch system. I test drove it today and everything seemed in order. Got it up on the freeway no problems, couldn't hear any issues. What do you guys think of the transmission complaints? Just people not used to dual clutch transmissions? Thoughts on alternatives? Am I a fool for picking up this car? negativeneil fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Nov 25, 2013 |
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Nov 25, 2013 02:48
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Yes because that's not really much of a deal. Truecar is giving me $20.8k here in Phoenix for a 2014 Focus Hatchback Titanium, and while that's before TTL, you're really not saving much to have a 2013 that already has one owner, a repair, and some miles on it. If you mean a sedan, then Truecar is giving me $20.2k.
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Nov 25, 2013 03:11
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We got the exact same car new with the handling package for under 22k OTD. Not a good deal.
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Nov 25, 2013 03:20
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yes because that's not really much of a deal. Truecar is giving me $20.8k here in Phoenix for a 2014 Focus Hatchback Titanium, and while that's before TTL, you're really not saving much to have a 2013 that already has one owner, a repair, and some miles on it. yeah the tax & title was included in my quote. Truecar has this specific model rated at "great price". without it, I was at $20.7 with no negotiating. I live in Los Angeles, so that factors in. negativeneil fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Nov 25, 2013 |
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Nov 25, 2013 03:45
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skipdogg posted:I agree, a Grand Cherokee would fit the bill perfectly, and the lease rates don't look terrible. Strangely, when I asked Jeep Canada over twitter if they do leasing, they said to go ask our dealer. The Jeep Canada site makes no mention of leasing. What's the story there?
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Nov 25, 2013 04:53
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Aussie Goon needs help with US classic advice. Sorry for the wall of text, just covering my bases so people know I've thought things through. Proposed Budget: ~5K with some to spare, which I'd like to keep for first few months repairs / registration / insurance etc. New or Used: Used Body Style: 2-4 Door or Pickup How will you be using the car?: 24/7/365 - Daily drive for work as well as get away holiday trips What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, ease of repairs, interior / seating space, availability of parts Years: 50's-80's - 85 being around the cut off point, as that's where things got...weird... So I've had enough of buying dodgy 'project' vehicles that never go anywhere and just eat my money, never getting finished. I am becoming totally debt free by around Jan / Feb and have decided to get back into debt and get myself another vehicle that I'll actually enjoy keeping for the next five years. I currently daily drive an '05 Holden VZ Commodore Wagon [similar to the GM Pontiac you guys got]. It's been pretty good for nearly four years, but the odo is reaching 266,000 kms, and it has sucked up around 5-6k out of an 11k purchase price. I'm looking at ditching it in favour of something else. I've replaced a crapload of parts on it, including the entire cooling system, front struts, nearly all bushes, etc. It's running great at the moment, and considering a fair chunk of these get 'modified' or basically trashed, I have a seriously clean and well looked after example, with everything stock except the sound system. This puts it favourably in the 6-8k private sale range [still 11-14k at dealerships for a clean, bone stock model] so I'd like to sell it on before something else major breaks and I have to replace a trans / diff / heads etc. Which brings us around to... I've always owned and loved old cars, mostly owning 70's and 80's models, the VZ being the newest I've ever owned before. They are much easier for me to service and repair, with no ECU's to worry about frying. So now I'm looking ahead and decided to buy myself something I've always wanted. A US import. The problem is, I'm not sure on which to go for, but have come up with some examples that might help narrow it down. Basically it's going to be my daily drive, so it needs to be reliable, easy to fix, and easy to drive / park. El Camino, Z28, Firebird, Impala etc are all good candidates as I'm used to the bigger / wider / no PS cars. Caddy, Lincoln, Electra not so much, as it's hard to even get an 18ft car into a parking garage, let alone park it in one, which will be a regular thing. I'm also steering away from those sorts of models as much as I'd love one [oh god 60's Lincolns make me starry eyed], as getting service / replacement parts for something like a 425ci Caddy or a 322 Nailhead motor is grossly harder than a 350ci Chev, of which I can mail order and have here in two days, or walk into my local auto store and buy stuff for off the shelf. The big advantage with any of them though, is any day of the week I can sell my import and at the very least break even and walk away clean, but in most cases I could sell it for up to double what I pay out on it quite easily. My VZ won't be worth bupkus in another five years time, but a '68 Corvette is a timeless classic that will appreciate if not plateau and stay at a good price, if not appreciate [very, very slowly] over time if well looked after. If trouble brews, I can quickly and easily sell it at a cheaper price than the current ones on the market and it will dissapear in no time. So why not just buy one from over here right? No can do. The problem is, though US cars are becoming more common over here, people have silly asking prices on them. A good example is a '72 Stingray in ok condition in the US could be bought tommorow for example, $4k clean. Here, the same car would be a minimum asking price of ~$14k upwards. I am working with a well known, old as the hills, door to door import company, who will have one of their own inspect the car, photograph and video everything inside, outside and underneath, confirm the car is clean and not salvage, etc etc and then if I'm happy with the evidence, they will negotiate a price on my behalf. It lands in Sydney, gets put through customs, quarantine and paperwork, and then gets towed up to me. There is no real risk involved, short of the cars container dissapearing into the drink during a violent storm, which they are insured against, and all I do is hand over the money, then kick back for 6-8 weeks until the truck arrives with my new toy. So far, so good. So, being prepared for once and having gotten this far, instead of just picking something that looks or sounds nice, I thought I'd ask for advice ahead of time to see if anyone has any recommendations on certain models or if anyone can offer advice on models that have common problems etc that I can fix myself or should steer clear of [X is a rust bucket no matter where it is, Y blows trannies if it hasn't been changed to another model, Z eats timing belts every ### miles etc]. I am working out the budget well ahead of the loan application, and have figured repayments etc into the equation [they are tiny]. Everything is right to go in approx. 2-3 months time, now it's just the pick and choose that is the hard part. If anyone can offer any advice, I would be very grateful.  E: $5k is the approximate purchase price, so no one thinks I'm going to try and import on that sort of budget alone. All up, landed, whatever I buy will cost 10-12k. H1KE fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Nov 25, 2013 |
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Nov 25, 2013 06:01
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I'm looking for a good, reliable first car. I'm getting into this whole 'car' thing late, I'm 22 and just now working on my driver's license, so the car I buy: -Has to be fairly cheap (Looking to spend < $2000 if possible) -Has to be able to pass a driving test (needs an emergency brake accessible by the passenger) Outside of those two requirements I don't really care what it has. I need it to get from point A to point B and be able to hold 4-5 people.
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Nov 25, 2013 07:08
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Things got weird on US vehicles (except trucks) way before 85. I'd have a cut-off in the early 70s for cars. That said, $5k is not much for decent classic american iron unless you're prepared to put a lot of work into it later.
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Nov 25, 2013 07:18
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nm posted:Things got weird on US vehicles (except trucks) way before 85. I'd have a cut-off in the early 70s for cars. I am noticing Pontiac especially started getting really weird when the Grand Prix came out looking like it had a busted nose, and then nearly everyone seems to have followed suit after that. It's a bit harder sticking to the late 60's though, as a lot of the 55-70 models are still a bit larger than would be practical, but then again, you never know until you try.  And you could be right regarding price. While I'm finding a lot of really nice stuff in the companies listings around $5k, $5500-7000 seems to be the sweet spot for rust free, straight, bang for buck vehicles. I'm being very choosey this time around since I'm not on any real time frame, and if there's anything over a few thumb size rust spots, I'm not touching it. Also keeping in mind the equation is basically: Final landed price = purchase price x 2 [approx.] so if I sell my two current cars on top, I should be able to push up into the $7k/$14k range, which opens up the options a lot more.
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Nov 25, 2013 08:55
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Veinless posted:Strangely, when I asked Jeep Canada over twitter if they do leasing, they said to go ask our dealer. The Jeep Canada site makes no mention of leasing. What's the story there? I'm not sure with Canada stuff to be honest. I got bored and looked at Jeep Canada's website and they're doing some kind of hybrid purchase program with options to turn the vehicle back in? It's very confusing to be honest. When I was configuring a GC, the website had a 'biweekly payment' calculator on it, which I assumed was a lease as the payment was around 375 every 2 weeks on a 60K Jeep which I assumed had to be a lease of some sort. http://www.chryslerjeepdodgeramoffers.ca/promotions/CCF/en/
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Nov 25, 2013 18:24
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Veinless posted:How is Kia's AWD? I haven't personally driven the Sorento in any sort of extreme weather, so I have no opinion on the AWD system. oxidation posted:I'm looking for a good, reliable first car. I'm getting into this whole 'car' thing late, I'm 22 and just now working on my driver's license, so the car I buy: Hop on your local craigslist, find something in your budget that runs, and take it to a mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection to weed out any horrible issues. Finding a car under $2k is slim pickins.
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Nov 25, 2013 18:35
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yes because that's not really much of a deal. Truecar is giving me $20.8k here in Phoenix for a 2014 Focus Hatchback Titanium, and while that's before TTL, you're really not saving much to have a 2013 that already has one owner, a repair, and some miles on it. I just wanted to add in my recent experience truecar is a little skewed a little low. Truecar records the final sales prices of the car, not in the data is tax, title, license, doc (unregulated and non-negotiable in some states) and most importantly 1-2k of MANDATORY aftermarket "accessories". In multiple instances, I have offered only to pay advertised price of the car + overpriced tint and NOT the rest. No one was game.
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Nov 25, 2013 18:43
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CatchrNdRy posted:I just wanted to add in my recent experience truecar is a little skewed a little low. That sucks; when I used it to buy my CR-V I had no problem getting every dealer that actually wanted to play ball to strip that poo poo off. All the same it doesn't make $22k out-the-door for a 2013 with 2000 miles on it already that much cheaper than what you should expect to pay for a brand new 2014. To me, you'd need to negotiate quite a bit cheaper of a price to not just take the new one instead.
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Nov 25, 2013 18:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:That sucks; when I used it to buy my CR-V I had no problem getting every dealer that actually wanted to play ball to strip that poo poo off. Oh I completely agree about that Focus, the truecar trendline is still a good rule of thumb. When I finally bought the 2014 mazda6, I did get the sales price at almost exactly at the truecar midpoint (when I had those accessories removed). It was just that "15% under invoice" portion of curve that made me unrealistically optimistic. I assume those people bought the accessories to go with their 500-1000 under invoice sale prices. Honda has a larger volume, as opposed to Mazda so perhaps they are more willing to play ball with things like that. CatchrNdRy fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Nov 25, 2013 |
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Nov 25, 2013 20:04
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negativeneil posted:I've got the opportunity to pick up a 2013 Focus Titanium with only 2300 miles. Clean carfax report, with the only item on the report being that at 200 miles: "body electrical wiring repaired". 2100 miles later, the owner traded it into a Nissan shop for a 370z. I can get it out the door for $22k before any real negotiation. Is this a red-flag? I googled around for "Ford Focus Problems" and got a ton of people raising hell about the transmission. Lots of Focus drivers out there with the exact same symptoms of the transmission doing wildly terrible things: jerking about, not being able to decide on a gear, being hesitant in low speed traffic. Slight derail, but why would a warranty repair show up on Carfax? Is that typical?
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Nov 25, 2013 21:10
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Augmented Dickey posted:Slight derail, but why would a warranty repair show up on Carfax? Is that typical? Nothing is "typical" on Carfax. It's a joke as far as accuracy. A warranty repair would show up if it happened to be done at a place that "reports" (i.e. allows them to install their spyware on their computers to harvest data for which they receive exactly zero benefit).
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Nov 25, 2013 22:02
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CatchrNdRy posted:Oh I completely agree about that Focus, the truecar trendline is still a good rule of thumb. I hate to sound like an rear end but nothing is mandatory in car sales. You can get just about any car under the TrueCar midpoint and even below the bottom end if you play hardball and have time to spend. I just emailed the local Mazda Internet manager and got an offer about $500 less than the lowest "Unusually low price" amount.
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Nov 25, 2013 23:02
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Bovril Delight posted:I hate to sound like an rear end but nothing is mandatory in car sales. You can get just about any car under the TrueCar midpoint and even below the bottom end if you play hardball and have time to spend. Thats what I did, and they were very agreeable. Ask for the out-the-door estimate in pdf. Thats when the low price for the car was overshadowed by the extra charges. for a 2014 ms6. it could also be regional, as I did not contact any out-of-state dealers. CatchrNdRy fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Nov 26, 2013 |
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Nov 26, 2013 00:05
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H1KE posted:And you could be right regarding price. While I'm finding a lot of really nice stuff in the companies listings around $5k, $5500-7000 seems to be the sweet spot for rust free, straight, bang for buck vehicles. I'm being very choosey this time around since I'm not on any real time frame, and if there's anything over a few thumb size rust spots, I'm not touching it. Also keeping in mind the equation is basically: Final landed price = purchase price x 2 [approx.] so if I sell my two current cars on top, I should be able to push up into the $7k/$14k range, which opens up the options a lot more. How familiar are you with rust? A lot of older cars can look straight and clean and be rust as hell under the skin. I'd be scared to buy a snow state car without an in person.
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Nov 26, 2013 02:37
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skipdogg posted:I'm not sure with Canada stuff to be honest. I got bored and looked at Jeep Canada's website and they're doing some kind of hybrid purchase program with options to turn the vehicle back in? It's very confusing to be honest. When I was configuring a GC, the website had a 'biweekly payment' calculator on it, which I assumed was a lease as the payment was around 375 every 2 weeks on a 60K Jeep which I assumed had to be a lease of some sort. Here's what I've found out: This is financing with the option to return the vehicle after a set period. You pay tax on the entire purchase price. The tax is also financed for the entire term. Since you own the vehicle it does not count as an expense, it counts as an asset and you can only write off the depreciation rather than the monthly lease. Not relevant to me but good to pass along. gently caress Jeep Canada. Edit - reference: http://forums.redflagdeals.com/chrysler-customer-choice-financing-same-lease-1052375/ Veinless fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Nov 26, 2013 |
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Nov 26, 2013 03:10
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oxidation posted:I'm looking for a good, reliable first car. I'm getting into this whole 'car' thing late, I'm 22 and just now working on my driver's license, so the car I buy: No car you find for under $2000 will be very good or rock solid reliable out the door, meaning without some garage work. Or for more than a few months at least. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Nov 26, 2013 |
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Nov 26, 2013 03:14
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nm posted:How familiar are you with rust? A lot of older cars can look straight and clean and be rust as hell under the skin. I'd be scared to buy a snow state car without an in person. Very. My last one looked like a great car until you started looking deeper. I described it as an onion. The more I peeled, the more I cried. I'm over fixing it all the goddamn time in the past, hence going through the guys I'm using. It costs a little extra, but I'll have photos/video evidence that the car is what the owner says it is. I know whatever I get will most likely have some sort of rust, but that's basically any car pre 2000 at this point, and if it's not structural or taking out an entire panel, I'm happy to deal with that. The site is like a Craigslist style classifieds, so people throw up a few pics and a description, then the company adds their fees info underneath, with a total end price landed. I know well enough to stay away from snow cars, but there's no indication on the site where they are located, which is a bit of a downfall. Some I can pick as lower states cars [paint fade, peeling, sunburnt seats], but most just look fairly average with no real way of telling until I get it inspected. Checking over supplied photos in the listing on the companies website and finding a lot of 'rust free' cars that clearly have warps / bulges / paint fade where you just know there's going to be some nice bondo slapped all over the other side of that shiny paint job.
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Nov 26, 2013 06:38
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oxidation posted:I'm looking for a good, reliable first car. I'm getting into this whole 'car' thing late, I'm 22 and just now working on my driver's license, so the car I buy: I seem to run into a lot of Toyota sedans with 200,000+ miles on them... Check the local classified ads, many cities have car only classified publications like auto trader. Find a good mechanic and pay 'em to write up a list of everything that should be repaired/replaced on the car, and then bring that to the seller to negotiate down the price. If not immediately, you should expect to pump in a few hundred dollars of parts/labor within the first year. Computer Serf fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Nov 26, 2013 |
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Nov 26, 2013 06:51
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oxidation posted:I'm looking for a good, reliable first car. I'm getting into this whole 'car' thing late, I'm 22 and just now working on my driver's license, so the car I buy: Buy a Buick with the 3800, they are really ugly rattleboxes and everything but the drivetrain will break or be broken. You should be able to find them cheaper than Hondas / Toyotas and they're pretty great cars.
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Nov 26, 2013 20:16
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So, who wants to talk me out of buying an old beater Geo Tracker / Suzuki Sidekick / super compact SUV for a daily driver? My background: I've got a 92 Silverado 2wd right now, but I will soon have a 40 minute daily commute to deal with. I need something better on gas, and can only afford a beater (around $2500) since I'm gonna hang onto the Chevy. I'm most comfortable with the visibility offered by trucks and suv's, but something tiny is what I'm after. I camp a lot, so 4wd would be cool, and although I don't have a family, something that I can load up with some gear and the mutts would be cool. Plus, one day I might throw some upgrades on there and run it through the hills. I guess my main concern is the feasibility of a vehicle luke this being used for such a crappy commute? Thoughts? If this is an awful idea, does anyone have any suggestions for other types of vehicles?
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Nov 27, 2013 19:49
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4-wheel drive isn't really compatible with good fuel economy. Camping/offroad vehicles tend to be heavier and bigger and therefore also suck at fuel economy.
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Nov 27, 2013 20:33
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saulwright posted:So, who wants to talk me out of buying an old beater Geo Tracker / Suzuki Sidekick / super compact SUV for a daily driver? How many miles is your commute? The cheapest option will almost definitely be driving your truck, if you keep it around you'll still be paying insurance, maintenance & repairs, registration etc on it. If you do want a 2nd vehicle to commute in, tiny 4wd trucks get pretty bad fuel economy and there's always some cost associated with fixing the problems in any new-to-you used car. I do think it is an awful idea, and if your 40 minute commute is along highways and >30 miles each way, it might be worth looking at a tiny undesirable econobox.
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Nov 27, 2013 20:44
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4wd isn't really a must have, I just threw it in there because the EPA fuel efficiency ratings for the style of car I'm describing (e.g. the tracker) seem to be typically identical for the 2wd and 4wd versions. Honestly, I'd be fine with a beat up little hatchback or something, if they only rode a little higher.
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Nov 27, 2013 20:53
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Those little Suzuki's are deathtraps. I knew a guy in high school that got t-boned in one. The metal door busted and sliced open his abdominal cavity and he pretty much died with his guts spilled all over the intersection. If you want to make a crazy trail only rock crawler out of one, sure why not, but no way in hell would I drive one on a public street.
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Nov 27, 2013 22:38
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Proposed Budget: Up to $15,000 New or Used: Either, but likely used under 50k miles Body Style: Hatchback or 4-door How will you be using the car?: Pretty much just transportation to my job - about a 25 mile commute each way. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, decent gas milage, and significant trunk space - I'm a bass player and need to be able to move my gear. I previously drove a Nissan Versa HB which worked beautifully. I think a 4 door could work, with a decent size trunk and rear seats that fold down. From my initial research, it seems there's plenty of cars that would fit this mold, but I wanted to see if you guys could narrow my search a bit, either with cars that are particularly nice in this price range, or models that I shouldn't bother with looking at. edit: a little more info - I wouldn't hate another Versa, but want to check out what else is out there. The Mazda3 looks interesting. edit 2: Kia Rio and Honda Fit are leading the pack right now. JoeRules fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Nov 30, 2013 |
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Nov 29, 2013 18:37
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Comedy HHR panel van option. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_HHR
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Nov 29, 2013 22:42
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With either the Fit or the RIo you're probably better off buying new. The Fit tends to retain its value making it a poor choice used, and I think with the Kia you only get the super long warranty when you are the first owner.
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Nov 30, 2013 08:39
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saulwright posted:So, who wants to talk me out of buying an old beater Geo Tracker / Suzuki Sidekick / super compact SUV for a daily driver? They are horrible cars for anything other than recreational use. They are loving horrible to drive on the interstate, are way underpowered and unstable at highway speeds and have lovely gas mileage for a four cylinder. I have owned two of them and would not recommend using one as a commuter vehicle. That being said, they were great for what I used them for, putting around the beach no faster than 45mph. [edit] get a Jeep Cherokee.
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Dec 1, 2013 05:05
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(UK based) Proposed budget: Not very much, probably around £1500 I'm looking to pick up a Land Rover Discovery. I'm about to move to a pretty rural part of the country, and my work is likely to involve various national parks, woodlands etc, so something fairly capable would be nice. It also needs to be able to seat 5. However, I'm mostly after reliability. So I suppose my question is, am I barking up the wrong tree? What would be better for the same cost?
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Dec 3, 2013 14:24
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Dunno about the same cost, but a toyota land cruiser would be my first choice. You don't want to have to deal with land rover reliability, especially with what you could get for 1500 pounds. You'd have reliability issues with a new one. So yeah, toyota trucks/suvs, land cruiser is the best but might be out of your price range. Maybe an old hilux, or the 4runner if it's available over there (basically a hilux SUV)? There is also the jeep cherokee which I guess is pretty drat cheap on the used market in the UK. Barebones but will run *forever*, just make sure it's not too rusty.
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Dec 3, 2013 15:16
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You're not going to get a Land Cruiser for 1500, even in the US, with basically the cheapest car prices in the world, a new Land Cruiser starts at $78k, vs $49k for a Land Rover LR4(Discovery), and Toyota probably loses money on each one they sell while JLR books record profits. They're not really in the same class. Isn't a large part of the cost of car ownership in Britain the insurance? Sounds like that's what you should be worried about.
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Dec 3, 2013 16:06
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Throatwarbler posted:
I can get insured on one for £800, which isn't bad considering I don't have any no claims discount at all (I've been a named driver for 13 years)
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Dec 3, 2013 16:36
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Pi Mu Rho posted:(UK based) If you want as reliable as possible in a Discovery look for a diesel stripper model Disco 1 if you can find one that isn't a rusty mess underneath and in the door jambs. Do NOT get a petrol, especially in a D2. The D1s are a lot less finnicky and don't have most of the courtesy electronics routed through a black box that, if it goes bad, needs to be repaired to the ECU at a dealership. Disco ownership can be fairly inexpensive if you're willing to do your own work. There's a big enthusiast community around them and lots of information on diagnosis and repair. And you have better access to scrap yard parts for them than we do in the US.
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Dec 3, 2013 17:03
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