|
So there was a ball of uneaten pellets hiding in a plant in my quarantine tank and the Ammonia was 5.0 ppm  I have just one keyhole cichlid in there and not because he was sick, but because he was getting picked on by my breeding pair. I did some emergency water changes and ran out and bought some Prime type stuff as quickly as possible. Should I move the stressed keyhole back into my community tank to get him the hell out of aftermath of the ammonia explosion? Or should I let him ride it out in the quarantine tank. He looks stressed but frankly I'm amazed that he is still alive at all. Even after 2 50% water changes yesterday ammonia is still at .75 ppm. Supposedly it has been rendered non-toxic by the stuff I added but it still makes me nervous.
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2016 17:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 21:22 |
|
|
I remember reading somewhere that test kits will still detect ammonia even after it's been treated with prime since the reaction used to get the colour change doesn't distinguish between free and bound ammonia. Prime type stuff primarily treats chlorine and then if there is chloramine, it breaks that down and releases more ammonia which then also gets treated I guess? I think you can specifically get anti ammonia stuff like Amquel but following this threadfrom the seachem forums it seems like it's just the same stuff only at a higher concentration. And you have to get a different kind of test kit to differentiate between free ammonia (bad?) and bound ammonia (less bad?). I'm guessing you did the water changes first then dosed a heap of prime stuff which might have got rid enough remaining ammonia. I'd probably still take the fish out until you've had more of a chance to get the water chemistry right since your test kit can't tell if there is any bad ammonia left and even the reacted out version of ammonia is probably not great for the fish to be in (just not immediately damaging like ammonia is). The fish still might have damaged gills and a shortened lifespan as a result of what happened or you might have had enough residual prime in your water that was already reacting with the ammonia that was forming from the food as it broke down. So since there is no way of knowing, I'd put that fish back into a known good water chemistry until the quarantine tank reads zero ammonia again, it's the only way to be sure.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2016 06:19
|
|
|
Stoca Zola posted:I remember reading somewhere that test kits will still detect ammonia even after it's been treated with prime since the reaction used to get the colour change doesn't distinguish between free and bound ammonia. Prime type stuff primarily treats chlorine and then if there is chloramine, it breaks that down and releases more ammonia which then also gets treated I guess? I think you can specifically get anti ammonia stuff like Amquel but following this threadfrom the seachem forums it seems like it's just the same stuff only at a higher concentration. And you have to get a different kind of test kit to differentiate between free ammonia (bad?) and bound ammonia (less bad?). Thanks, that is some good info. I ended up deciding the stress from relocating was better than not knowing if he was still exposed to unbound ammonia. I moved him yesterday afternoon and this morning he looks much better.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2016 13:29
|
|
|
So after some debate and wringing my own arm I finally bit the bullet and bought my first tank  I was super excited and set it up as soon as I got home, rinsed the substrate and filled the tank. I was slightly worried with how murky the water was when I started thinking maybe I hadn't rinsed the gravel enough  (The substrate I bought is for planting the tank because I want love plants, something about proper nutrients it has or some other). Having faith in the system I used the decloudifier that came with the substrate and let it sit all day just leaving it out of my mind. Went over the neighbors house had a few beers and picked his brain with questions ( he has 2 successful tanks one 45g fresh water and a 80 or so gallon saltwater, with a separate live filter tank plumbed into the saltwater tank). When I got home and rushed upstairs to check the damage is was relieved to find the tank nice and clear  I am now super excited and will be going to the local fish superstore right after work tomorrow to get plants and a couple cheap fish to test the waters. Any suggestions on decor/residents for this first timer? I'm Thinking I want to have a total of about 18 fish and 4 or 5 snails when I'm all said and done. Edit: completely forgot to mention. Its a 29g tank Tony Doughnuts fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Sep 10, 2016 |
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2016 03:26
|
|
|
Question, what should I do with fish that are supposed to be peaceful but have gone ridiculously violent and massacre everything else in the tank, new additions and old? Is rehoming possible or should I just euth them because they'll always be assholes?
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2016 05:52
|
|
|
For my aggressive penguin tetras I got another tank, planted way heavier so more hiding places and the change of scenery settled them down a bit. They went from bashing everything to timidly hiding from guppies. My aggressive danios went in with a huge school of unflappable rosy barbs and they were outnumbered so weren't game to start anything. It's tough though, you just can't tell what will work and what the fish are going to do and my backup plan for the danios if they didn't settle down was going to be to chuck them out into the backyard pond where they couldn't molest anything else. If your aggressive fish are gouramis or any other strict tropical, that isn't really an option, so you could try selling them or giving them away on gumtree? Tony Doughnuts posted:I am now super excited and will be going to the local fish superstore right after work tomorrow to get plants and a couple cheap fish to test the waters. Any suggestions on decor/residents for this first timer? I'm Thinking I want to have a total of about 18 fish and 4 or 5 snails when I'm all said and done. Tank looks like a nice starter Tony and you've got a good amount of substrate for planting. I reckon you want to read up on the nitrogen cycle before you get any fish since it will take a while for your new tank's filtration to get established, unless you're fine with doing fish cycling which can harm or kill the fish due to unprocessed waste products until the filter becomes established. Planting your tank up will help with that since the plants do break down and use fish wastes that need to be removed via periodic water changes, etc. You're in a position right now where you have no pest snails so if you want to avoid that be very vigilant with your new plants to pick off any egg deposits or remove unwanted visitors. If you want pet snails you won't be able to easily poison your pest snails later so remove them as soon as you see them (see thread title). Things to think about : are you willing to add CO2 and extra lighting and fertilisers to grow the harder to keep plants (this is usually referred to as a high-tech planted tank)? Can the staff at the superstore tell you which plants need more care and which are low-light, low maintenance? Do you have a particular look that you want to achieve? There are a few websites that list plants but sometimes it's hard to get a feel for what they will be like if they grow so this might be a good starting point for ideas. Usually you can't go wrong with Java fern, anubias, and some mosses. For livestocking, what do you want to see in the tank? Colours? Movement? Natural behaviour? Certain fish live at certain heights in the tank, for example plecos and corydoras hang around at the bottom, White Cloud Mountain minnows at the top, and in my experience guppies go all over the place. You should keep in mind that fish stores usually sell juvenile sized fish, and they will grow and possibly also breed so you should allow room for that. If you want a mix of fish species make sure you get a big enough group of each sort that they can feel safe (or not too many to avoid fighting, depending on the fish). Make sure they have compatible temperature ranges that they can live in since warm water fish who like 28c are prone to illness at lower temperatures, whereas colder water fish who prefer 22c will have shortened lifespans at warmer temperatures. Up to a point, the fish you can keep will be affected and maybe limited by the water you can provide for them, so it depends on what comes out of your tap. You probably should grab a master test kit to keep an eye on your incoming water and your new tanks nitrogen cycle and pH in case of pH swings. A hardness test kit would probably be useful too. There are certain ranges that fish prefer to live in but mostly what you want is to give them stability since most farmed fish breeds are adaptable. I consider myself a beginner still and I haven't kept that many kinds of fish. I like barbs and danios a lot, for their constant movement and ease of keeping, although for a planted tank you want to avoid rosy barbs like the plague. Cherry barbs are smaller and more placid, checker and Odessa barbs I don't believe will eat plants but I'm not sure; and there is a smallish gold or golden barb which are supposedly pretty peaceful as well. They're a schooling fish so need a minimum school size or else they may stress or fight or fin nip. I like tall-bodied tetras too (ie pristilla, beacon, black neons) in my limited experience they can also be nippy if not given a large enough school. The ones I've had don't tend to move as much in the water but have a different dignified way of hanging in the water and watching everything that happens. Personally I can't keep these alive but I don't think it's that they are a hard fish to keep, just that I got them from a bad supplier. I love corydoras too although with your plant substrate I'm not sure if they would work for you since they seem to like chuffing through sand. Bronze and Peppered corydoras are the easiest to keep and you shouldn't get less than 4. I'd avoid neon tetras since they can be sickly and fussy, I think Cardinal tetras are similar but a little more hardy. Guppies are probably not a good idea unless you get all males (and then they'll bicker constantly but probably not hurt each other) otherwise you'll have hundreds of guppies before you know what to do with them. They're very easy to keep but the husbandry issues of trying to catch unwanted fry etc, it's a pain in the arse. Guppies are pushy feeders too in my experience and may outcompete their tank mates, depending on what you put them in with. I don't have much experience with gouramis but I've heard honey gouramis are a good beginner fish. Depending on where you are gourami iridovirus may be a problem and you might have trouble getting healthy stock. Rainbowfish are supposed to be pretty easy to keep as well and I'd like to keep some one day. Depending on your region you might have access to sunfish or flag fish or killifish and I can't tell you much about those. I've also never kept rasboras but there are a lot of smaller rasbora species that would probably look fantastic among your plants if you got a decent sized school of them. Your tank is too small for sharks, oscars, some cichlids; probably fine for bristle nose Pleco but definitely not plain Pleco. I forgot about Plecos but if you get one they need driftwood to munch on. I think an aquascaped tank looks better with a carefully picked single species of fish or maybe one species for the bottom and one species for the midwater/upper parts of the tank. It makes feeding them easier than trying to make sure everyone in a fish community gets the right kind and right amount of food. If I could start over I would try to keep it simple like that. Probably the most important thing to remember is to be patient and don't rush anything. You want stability or slow changes to allow your tank to become an alive and healthy place for fish and plants to live.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2016 07:20
|
|
|
Stoca Zola posted:(Wall of knowledge) Thanks for the advice! To answer a few of your questions. For right now I want to keep things simply with hardy easy to keep plants and some hardy beginner fish. I think I'm more interested in a lively "natural habitat" feel with some grass a couple mid heights and then tall Plants. The store I'll be going to is called barrier reef in South Florida. It comes highly recommend both from the lady I talked to at pets mart where I bought the tank and my neighbor with the two tanks. It's privately owned and they apparently have a lot of good display tanks to help me get some inspiration on what I want. Once I get some more experience I will probably get a larger community tank and make that thing an underwater amazon with some brightly colored fish and all kinds of curiosities lurking around. I've been reading up on nitrogen cycling and I think I'm going to try it with a couple live fish, I'll try my best to keep them happy and healthy during the cycling but I will reserve them to being named test subject 1-A and 1-B for now. If they prove to be surviviors they shall go through the naming ritual and have names worthy of warriors 
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2016 13:54
|
|
|
Don't cycle with hardy fish. It is unnecessarily cruel and probably more difficult than fishless cycle anyway.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2016 13:57
|
|
|
Cycle with snails
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2016 13:58
|
|
|
If you're doing it in a planted tank you might not see the classic ammonia > nitrite > nitrate peaks since some plants prefer those first two to nitrate anyway. If you're monitoring your water chemistry and doing lots of water changes it doesn't have to be cruel on the fish but it might be more work in water changes and daily testing than you're willing to put in. Getting your plants in and established, and cycling with snails and fish food isn't a bad idea really! It sounds like the place you're going should be able to give you some good advice too so don't hesitate to ask advice there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2016 14:52
|
|
|
I realized after reading the link about cycling that I bought one of those bottles of bacteria which is supposed to replace cycling but aren't super reliable. Should I still try to cycle my tank as if I hadn't added it or just put some plants in and monitor everything to see if it actually worked?
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2016 14:59
|
|
|
The bottle bacteria don't really replace cycling, they help speed up the process of getting the bacteria in your tank. So to your question; yes.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2016 15:37
|
|
|
Welp my betta sorority is up and running. So far they are doing pretty fantastic, sorting out their territory and poo poo, but I couldn't figure out why the hell they all look constipated. Turns out my bf has been secretly feeding them because he gets super excited that they get super excited when he comes up to the tank.  Here are some poo poo pictures of BBB House.  
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2016 19:39
|
|
|
 Planted and ready for cycling! Went and bought ammonia and master test kit an hour or so ago. Just added some ammonia to bring the level up. The plants are from an established tank. I wanted tie give myself the best possible start I could. I forwent the snails for now because I was afraid dumping pure ammonia into the tank might hurt the little guys. On that note any suggestions on snail breeds/quantity I should get? Also got to make sure I stay organized! 
Tony Doughnuts fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Sep 11, 2016 |
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2016 01:52
|
|
|
SynthOrange posted:Question, what should I do with fish that are supposed to be peaceful but have gone ridiculously violent and massacre everything else in the tank, new additions and old? Is rehoming possible or should I just euth them because they'll always be assholes? What kind of fish?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2016 19:30
|
|
|
Cowslips Warren posted:What kind of fish? Crimson belly piranhas 
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2016 20:07
|
|
|
Chain loaches that developed a taste for everything. Ate my cories, my betta, my shrimp.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2016 21:37
|
|
|
I think ive decided on what fish im going to be getting once my tank has cycled. Let me know what y'all think. Cardinal tetras Longfin leopard danios Khuli loaches Black mollies (maybe a pair) And rabbit snails On a separate note, here in south Florida we have relatively high ph water. I bought some ph stabilizer 7.0 and have been following g the directions on it for the past 4 days now anhave seen zero change in the ph levels in the tank. Its stayed constant at 7.6ish and if like it closer to 7.0 to 7.2. Does this stuff just work really really slowly? Should I get some ph down also? Or maybe just add RO water when I do my 50% water change Tony Doughnuts fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Sep 12, 2016 |
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 05:10
|
|
|
SynthOrange posted:Chain loaches that developed a taste for everything. Ate my cories, my betta, my shrimp.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 10:05
|
|
|
Too long. >
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 10:05
|
|
|
SynthOrange posted:Chain loaches that developed a taste for everything. Ate my cories, my betta, my shrimp. Possibly irredeemable - I keep reading over and over in various places "oh no my loaches turned bad and ate my other fish". Maybe you just have to keep loaches with fish that have eyes that are bigger than will fit in the loaches mouth? I've been scared off from loaches (except kuhlis) by all the horror stories. Tony Doughnuts posted:Cardinal tetras My comments would be tetras, loaches and danios are all schooling fish so you'll need 6 or so of each; kuhlis need sand to bury in so that they dont hurt themselves trying to bury in coarser substrate, or you might be able to get away with giving them some other kind of shelter or cave to hide in, I'm not sure. If you mix male and female mollies they'll spawn regularly and you'll have a lot of fry to deal with. Yes, maybe they'll eat their own fry, and maybe the danios will be tempted to munch on the fry while they are small too, but don't count on that to keep the numbers down, in my experience livebearer fry are pretty crafty at birth with good hiding instincts. If you don't want fry don't get female livebearers at all! Tony Doughnuts posted:On a separate note, here in south Florida we have relatively high ph water. I bought some ph stabilizer 7.0 and have been following g the directions on it for the past 4 days now anhave seen zero change in the ph levels in the tank. Its stayed constant at 7.6ish and if like it closer to 7.0 to 7.2. Does this stuff just work really really slowly? Should I get some ph down also? Or maybe just add RO water when I do my 50% water change A KH test can tell you more about what's in your tapwater and could be useful to help you monitor getting your RO blend right.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 11:04
|
|
|
gently caress it yeah I'll just stick them on gumtree 'Warning: rear end in a top hat fish'
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 11:57
|
|
|
Stoca Zola posted:(lots of good info) Thanks for the help. I was more worried about my ph right now than anything else but if that ph level is fine then that's a relief. I don't have any fish in the tank because it's still cycling but I definitely do not want babies. The mollies will be a same gender pair. I was planning on doing 6 each of the tetras and danios. From what I was reading is that the khulis will be happy with a group of 4 or 5 quite well, 6 seems like slightly too many for me at this time. I picked rabbit snails because they will reproduce but only lay one egg at a time and don't lay more until the previous hatches, to prevent runaway population.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 14:02
|
|
|
I like rabbit snails, I've got Malaysian trumpet snails myself which have the same hard pointed shell and elephant trunk face. They're cute! I've got them stirring the sand in my corydoras tank so I don't see them very often and I think the only thing keeping the population down is that there isn't enough carbonate around for all of them to grow proper shells. I noticed one of my corys has lost a bit of barbel length so I pulled up some plants to try and get out any trapped muck that might be fouling and causing problems, and I found a lot of small empty MTS shells, semi broken or dissolved looking, sitting at the base of the plants. Maybe I'm running the water a little too soft in there but then, the empty shells should contribute some carbonate back to the water I hope. Since your snails will be pets not pests you do want your hardness and pH to be high enough to maintain a good strong shell for the snails. Pretty sure mollies like the pH to be higher than 7 too and the others are adaptable. Maybe not optimal for kuhlis but really pH is only a big factor for trying to breed egg laying fish - lots of species spawn when rains or meltwater dilute their regular water and they are triggered to breed in cooler, softer, slightly lower pH water. Since you're not trying to breed anything your pH is fine. There aren't many fish I can think of that absolutely have to be kept in a specific (low) pH, some Blackwater species from soft tannin stained waters for example, liquorice gouramis? Lots of South American fish common to the hobby do live in Blackwater environments in nature but are quite happy anywhere from ph6.5 to ph7.5, and captive bred fish are quite adaptable. Mollies and other live bearers absolutely need a 7+ pH with sufficient hardness or else they a more prone to getting sick, mollies particularly get the "shimmies" without enough mineral content in the water. So your water is pretty much ideal for mollies and safe for the others.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 20:48
|
|
|
So i hosed up and used the wrong ammonia with a surfactant in it. had to drain the tank wipe the inside clean and refill it. on the bright side though i did go and get the proper ammonia (thank you ace hardware) and seeder material from my neighbor's filter. He also suggested that when he does a water change to just dump some of his water in my tank. Is that a good/bad idea? his tank and been successful with almost no problems for 2+ years nowStoca Zola posted:I like rabbit snails, I've got Malaysian trumpet snails myself which have the same hard pointed shell and elephant trunk face. They're cute! I've got them stirring the sand in my corydoras tank so I don't see them very often and I think the only thing keeping the population down is that there isn't enough carbonate around for all of them to grow proper shells. I noticed one of my corys has lost a bit of barbel length so I pulled up some plants to try and get out any trapped muck that might be fouling and causing problems, and I found a lot of small empty MTS shells, semi broken or dissolved looking, sitting at the base of the plants. Maybe I'm running the water a little too soft in there but then, the empty shells should contribute some carbonate back to the water I hope. Since your snails will be pets not pests you do want your hardness and pH to be high enough to maintain a good strong shell for the snails. Pretty sure mollies like the pH to be higher than 7 too and the others are adaptable. Maybe not optimal for kuhlis but really pH is only a big factor for trying to breed egg laying fish - lots of species spawn when rains or meltwater dilute their regular water and they are triggered to breed in cooler, softer, slightly lower pH water. Since you're not trying to breed anything your pH is fine.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2016 02:28
|
|
|
All of my tanks after my first one, I've cycled using the help of old water from previous tanks. In theory an existing cycled tank won't have any free ammonia or nitrite in the water though, and not many free floating bacteria. You get more value out of old filter media or plants or any other surface that may have been colonised by nitrifying bacteria. But, it's not like that bacteria is hard to come by, it's in the air and everywhere and will get into the filter sooner or later. For me, it was useful and convenient to not have to prepare as much new water when filling a new tank. Probably much less convenient to cart water from a friend's tank. RE: wrong ammonia - I don't know if rinsing is enough to get rid of all the surfactant! Maybe some of it will be removed by carbon/charcoal if you have that in your filter? You probably want to get some more and swap in since it can fill up pretty quickly. I don't know how to test to make sure the surfactants all gone because surely some remained in your substrate. You're not the first person to make that mistake and it looks like from a quick google that 100% water changes, tank scrubbing and filter carbon did clean it up for some people. Hopefully by the time you add fish anything that remains would be so dilute as to be harmless. Honestly I can't find surfactant free ammonia where I live at all, or even regular plain bleach (for sterilising tools and reactivating purigen). It's all coloured, scented, gel formulated or otherwise useless. Lots of people instead use a piece of raw prawn which releases ammonia as it breaks down, or just pinches of fish food. The ammonia method is faster since you can provide a bulk amount which is more representative of the waste load of stocked fish, and you then don't have to clean up rotting food either. Don't feel bad though, every one makes mistakes starting out.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2016 03:17
|
|
|
I always keep 4-5 sponge filters on hand in my sumps. Makes it trivial to get a new tank up and running with a nice established filter.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2016 03:49
|
|
|
Pretty sure you cant get pure ammonia in a lot of places now because of terrorism. Thanks Osama!
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2016 03:54
|
|
|
I did exactly that. Dumped the tank poured out the substrate and rinsed it thoroughly mixed it with my hands to scrub it against itself wiped down the inside surfaces of the tank with a wet rag dried it all off with a towel to give it one last good wipe down and replaced the water.Stoca Zola posted:. https://www.amazon.com/Ammonium-Hyd...monia+hydroxide That's the closest I could find in amazon to what you need. Expensive and a way higher concentrate than hardware store stuff but you could either dilute it with water to 10% or use a 3rd of what you normally would. Tony Doughnuts fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Sep 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2016 03:55
|
|
|
I got a big liter-bottle of pure ammonia at the local DIY store. In retrospect they even carry it at some supermarkets. Just have to dilute it a lot.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2016 11:27
|
|
|
SynthOrange posted:Pretty sure you cant get pure ammonia in a lot of places now because of terrorism. Thanks Osama!
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2016 13:11
|
|
|
You don't really have to use ammonia either. A bit of flake food or piece of uncooked shrimp (that you take out later) will do the same thing.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2016 13:45
|
|
|
Enos Cabell posted:I always keep 4-5 sponge filters on hand in my sumps. Makes it trivial to get a new tank up and running with a nice established filter. Mail me one 
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2016 02:28
|
|
|
Get your neighbour's water and have him squeeze one of his filters out in it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2016 02:30
|
|
|
I was lucky enough to catch him when he was doing a filter change so he just gave me the old one 
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2016 04:42
|
|
|
I lost a trilineatus unexpectedly last weekend, hadn't seen any signs of unwellness or sulking. On inspection of the deceased fish, the area around the gills seemed inflamed, couldn't really see anything else out of the ordinary. The only recent change in that tank was a few new plants. I spent more time watching the other corys and saw a few flicking and rubbing against the substrate and over the course of a couple of days I noticed slight dorsal fin rot in a couple of corys and barbels half gone on one of my big female pandas. Her colour was a bit wrong and I think it might have been increased slime production, she looked to have a bit of a grey film. My first guess was velvet so I treated for that which improved the finrot but didn't stop the flicking and rubbing. So I water changed and I've now treated with a mix of levamisole and praziquantel since I couldn't find my prazi fluke tabs, only my anti-camallanus dewormer. I'm thinking maybe flukes came in on the new plants or in hitch hiker snails, and they are getting in the gills and causing havoc. After about 12 hours of treatment all of the corys are a lot friskier and the greyish panda has gone back to her normal colour. Despite having stubs for barbels her appetite seems fine. One of my big female glass shrimp has died but I don't know if that's old age or from the medication as none of the other shrimp seemed affected. I think last time I treated a tank with fluke tabs the fish reacted badly (sulking, withdrawn, sitting on the bottom) so I think the dosage of prazi is less high in the tablets I used. I'm not sure whether to use fluke tabs when I redose (I eventually found them) or to redose with the same combo wormer since the fish tolerated that quite well. Not sure what the effective treatment level is for flukes vs unacceptable medication level for corydoras. I've now got 5 left of 7 trilineatus, (2 males and 3 females) and still all 9 of the panda cories who survived shipping so they are definitely doing much better this time and I hope I've nipped this latest issue in the bud before any more get sick. I haven't seen any more flicking or rubbing (yet). I have a female zebra danio that my sister gave to me after it outgrew her tank and bullied her other fish - I think she'd be pretty old now. She's showing signs of what looks like fish tuberculosis - scoliosis and muscle lumps, hollow belly. She hasn't got any colourless patches or I would have suspected neon tetra disease. Really struggling to swim and the hollowness shows she either can't intercept food any more or she can't digest it. I've had her in a separate tank so she isn't competing for food and it hasn't helped so I am going to have to euthanise her I think. I bought some net sanitiser too since I'm not always on top of using one equipment for one tank and I'd rather not spread all these potential pathogens around. Fingers crossed.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2016 21:27
|
|
|
Do you happen to have a pictures of them pre and post treatment?
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2016 05:13
|
|
|
I have a stocking question I hope you can guys can help with. I've always wanted a pair of fancy goldfish and after coming into a bit of money I did my research and got a 125 litre tank (33 us gallons) and a 2000 litre (528 us gallons) an hour filter as people stressed that goldfish are poo poo machines. I'm planning to run a fishless cycle and keep a mixture of silk and real plants (just one or two real ones to start as I learn to care for them). A whole ton of sites I read said the 'golden rule' of goldfish was 20 gallons for the first then 10 gallons per additional fish. Anywho - after getting all this equipment purchased I posted on another aquatics forum with a filter setup question and somebody replied that my tank is way too small. I originally wanted to keep ryukins as I read they are hardy an good for beginners, but after further research and warnings I find out they are one of the biggest kinds of fancy goldfish. I did some more reading and thought I might go for a pair of fan tails. Will they be happy in my tank since I have a pretty mega filter and plan to do weekly or even bi-weeky water changes, or am I doomed to never have fancy goldfish in this setup? My tank and filter as they are right now. http://imgur.com/cknJiIZ http://imgur.com/35JkgO6 Dr Scoofles fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Sep 17, 2016 |
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2016 09:23
|
|
|
Tony Doughnuts posted:Do you happen to have a pictures of them pre and post treatment? I didn't take any pictures of the corys, it's pretty hard to get them in focus let alone get a shot of them sitting still and in a part of the tank with lighting at the right angle to show the very slight coloration differences. I can't even see the fin damage any more. As long as it is pretty minor, finrot heals very quickly once the issue that caused it is resolved. I've seen a guppy grow back his entire tail over the course of a few days, but cory barbels grow a bit slower than that. I did get a picture of the danio though.  Amazing that for months she was still swimming and eating fine like this. My other fish in that tank have been exposed and there are no issues so far, so I am not panicking even though two possible culprits, neon tetra disease and mycobacterium are pretty serious. She lasted for such a long time and it really didn't seem to bother her right until the end. Dr Scoofles posted:I did my research and got a 125 litre tank (33 us gallons) and a 2000 litre (528 us gallons) an hour filter as people stressed that goldfish are poo poo machines. You're not filtering to get rid of poop, although the filter might help with that; your goal is to process the ammonia that the fish constantly produce. 125lt isn't a large body of water to dilute the ammonia. You can't process more waste by trying to do it faster (and if you have that pump turned up full in that tank it might blow the fish around or pop the spray bar off its fittings). Ideally the water needs enough time in contact with the filter media in order to let the bacteria do their work. You can process more waste by having more media though, and many people achieve this by using a sump under their display aquarium to both increase the total amount of water in the system and increase the amount of filtration media available. This would probably work for you, for a while - the other issue is that goldfish are sold as juveniles, they live a long time, and they grow their entire lives. While they can survive in a tank that size if water quality is maintained, as they grow they won't necessarily be as happy and healthy as they would be in something larger. I think it is worth a try as long as you plan ahead for what you will do when your fish outgrow the tank (or fill the tank full of baby fish). If you don't have room for more or bigger tanks, or don't like the idea of selling your fish when they are too big and starting over with smaller ones, maybe you could try stocking other subtropical fish instead of goldfish - long fin rosy barbs, gold barbs, or white cloud minnows? Good luck trying real plants with goldfish, I believe they are diggers and like ripping them up, and if you have floating plants instead they will probably munch on them. Not that that's a bad thing, I grow duckweed for my plant munchers to eat and it's a healthy part of their diet plus live plants do help a little with fish waste processing.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2016 00:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 21:22 |
|
|
Update on my tank: fully planted edition! Now with CO2! Yesterday was payday (yeah baby!) So I went to the LFS and got the rest of my plants.  The tank is now fully planted with Amazon sword, peacock fern, white ribbon, anubis Nana, anichrisa, hygro whatever, dwarf hair grass, something I can't remember the name of, and a Marimo Moss ball.  The CO2 is just a quick home brew setup with a gallon jug some sugar water and yeast, with the air stone for it hanging right next to the intake tube.  I also added just a regular bubbler to help with the cycle and may take it out later if I don't need it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2016 04:12
|
|