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I used http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=415390 to change out my 135's bushings to m3 bushings, might want to talk to the dude and see if he has one for a e46. Cost me ~$40 to rent it for 2 weeks, plus a $360 refundable deposit.
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Aug 14, 2010 14:01
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gently caress! I ran into an issue while swapping brake lines from my old car to my new one. The fitting on the hard line that goes into the brake line is completely stripped (probably because some retard used a non-flare wrench on it). I removed the assembly from the car, and I can't get the drat fitting off of the brake line (which I want to keep). I've tried some heat, WD-40, PB Blaster, and vice grips. What are my options? Will a machine shop or generic gas station be able to get the fitting off? I really want my car to be drivable today...  Here are some pictures:  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. This is the top of the hard line and the raggedy fitting which I clipped from the car (since it is a parts car, I don't care about the hard line, but I do want to keep the brake line).  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. A side view. Help please!
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Aug 14, 2010 17:52
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Deceptor101 posted:So my head just lightly exploded. I'll definitely go for the easier route of pre-installed bushings and have my mechanic friend help me out with the whole process. It is my only car, so I'd like to have it done in a day. With the right amount of prep and knowledge, and someone to drive me to a parts store in an emergency I should be okay right? I don't see any mention of the diff seal, while I'm down there with everything apart I should do that too right? Totally spaced on the diff seal. Yeah, you should do that too. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AM53&mospid=47723&btnr=33_1034&hg=33&fg=10 Looks like the gasket and gasket replacement kit are NLA. I'd buy both the rear seal and the shaft seals (input and output). If they look good, replace them anyway, because as soon as you shove the thing back in there with old seals it's going to start leaking out of spite. You probably don't have to worry about the pinion seal (knock on wood). http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39599 Basic outline of doing the diff seals, albeit on an E30 diff. It's fairly similar. Oh, and you'll need a E12 external Torx for the output shaft flange bolts. Also, get a Bentley manual ASAP. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Aug 15, 2010 |
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Aug 15, 2010 03:26
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Alright, so about two months ago I determined the aux fan on my E36 had stopped working. I determined that it was the fan itself, and replaced said fan, and the new one worked. I thought it was an open-and-closed case. I noticed yesterday that the new aux fan isn't turning on with the A/C. It was just a few days ago, so something has broken or come loose. I haven't had a chance to look at it much yet, but how likely is it that I got a defective fan? CornHolio fucked around with this message at 14:10 on Aug 16, 2010 |
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Aug 16, 2010 13:40
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Pissingintowind posted:gently caress me, I hate parts cars and their lovely brake lines bla ba bla. Well, assuming you have a table vice you can try to clamp the hard line fitting in there good and tight and just try to back off the soft line nut with the proper wrench.. If you've been trying hand-held vice locks you're gonna be fighting yourself all day. Might even be worth taking a grinder and giving the nut you plan to lop off some flat sides to let the vice bite onto. The other option is to price a new soft line, you may be surprised.
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Aug 16, 2010 15:28
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CornHolio posted:I haven't had a chance to look at it much yet, but how likely is it that I got a defective fan? First of all, is your outside temperature sensor reading normally? If it's not above freezing, it won't kick on. There's a thermo-resistor next to the fan you can try jumping across to see if you can give a straight feed from the live voltage to the fan motor. Also worth checking, make sure you don't have sticky relays. edit: well I tried combining my replies but apparently I'm incompetent lol
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Aug 16, 2010 15:35
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CornHolio posted:Alright, so about two months ago I determined the aux fan on my E36 had stopped working. I determined that it was the fan itself, and replaced said fan, and the new one worked. I thought it was an open-and-closed case. I'm pretty sure the aux fan only comes on if the coolant temperature is above a certain amount. Try checking it after a long drive and/or a hot day.
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Aug 16, 2010 15:46
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fartingfool posted:First of all, is your outside temperature sensor reading normally? If it's not above freezing, it won't kick on. fartingfool posted:First of all, is your outside temperature sensor reading normally? If it's not above freezing, it won't kick on. Yes, it works fine. quote:
I'll be trying this when I get home. I'm assuming if the fan still doesn't come on and I don't hear clicking relays (and the fuse is good obviously) the new fan is kaput (or, hopefully, somehow unplugged). Although doesn't the A/C circuit override that switch anyway (meaning when the A/C is on, the fan is on regardless of that switch position)? quote:
I'll have to check which relay(s) it could be.
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Aug 16, 2010 15:47
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Some dude hit my 135 today, I was in the #1 lane and he was in the #2 then he tried to dive into the 0 lane (left turn). I honked, dropped to 2nd and floored it, he still got my passenger side rear wheel and bumper cover. Doesn't look like too much damage, still sucks though.
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Aug 16, 2010 19:50
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doogle posted:Some dude hit my 135 today, I was in the #1 lane and he was in the #2 then he tried to dive into the 0 lane (left turn). I honked, dropped to 2nd and floored it, he still got my passenger side rear wheel and bumper cover. Doesn't look like too much damage, still sucks though. You in America? I am pretty sure no one uses their mirrors or checks blind spots here...
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Aug 16, 2010 20:15
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Yeah in Virginia, the worst state I've ever had the displeasure of being in. Virginia Beach is just Florida or San Diego lite with worse drivers and shittier weather.
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Aug 16, 2010 20:17
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doogle posted:Yeah in Virginia, the worst state I've ever had the displeasure of being in. Virginia Beach is just Florida or San Diego lite with worse drivers and shittier weather. Let me guess - on Virginia Beach Blvd at either Independence or Military Hwy. Yes the drivers suck in the area but lots of the intersections are pure death traps.
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Aug 16, 2010 22:11
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I was actually in Yorktown about to go on the colonial highway by the Coleman bridge. I just got a call from his insurance saying they are admitting 100% fault and I'm getting it appraised tomorrow. You guys know of a good autobody shop in the area?
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Aug 16, 2010 22:26
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doogle posted:I was actually in Yorktown about to go on the colonial highway by the Coleman bridge. I just got a call from his insurance saying they are admitting 100% fault and I'm getting it appraised tomorrow. You guys know of a good autobody shop in the area? You looking to stay on the peninsula to get it fixed or southside?
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Aug 17, 2010 01:00
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Doesn't matter to me,just want it done right you know?
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Aug 17, 2010 02:57
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Fun times. Assuming it's still on schedule, I'll be getting my 325i back from the body shop tomorrow after being rear ended two weeks back. Acura MDX failed to stop in the rain and did a great job on my bumper, trunk lid, and the panel between the two. Fortunately like in your case the other party's insurance has been great. I think in a clear cut rear ender it's probably in their best interest to do so. Probably helps cut down on bogus whiplash claims and such. I got lucky that two friends work at a body shop within walking distance of my apartment and that the insurance company was fine with me taking it there.
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Aug 17, 2010 03:06
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My troubles with this car will apparently NEVER. END. I got my set of rebuilt injectors yesterday and installed them after work. Except the ones they sent allowed about 1/8" of movement between the manifold and the fuel rail. Fuel leak ahoy! So now I've got to send those back and get ANOTHER set that is just a rebuilt version of mine vs the cheaper Ford alternative. Has anyone heard of this issue? I got a set of supposedly cross-compatible ones: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220648784682&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT When I received them I saw the "Ford" logo and got freaked out, but further research on the part number showed that yes, people use them for their McMadCow fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Aug 17, 2010 |
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Aug 17, 2010 17:26
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McMadCow posted:My troubles with this car will apparently NEVER. END. I remember reading about that when I changed them on my M30. I think the difference was in the pintle caps and the o-rings (mostly the o-rings). Those have to be the correct ones for your engine. I ordered the Ford injectors and bought the o-rings from the dealership. Worked out fine, but the different pintle caps made them fit a bit tight. Never caused a problem though. EDIT: Just looked at the ebay link. Those were the EXACT ones I put in my E28 (M30 engine), just used the o-rings from the dealer. Brock Landers fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Aug 17, 2010 |
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Aug 17, 2010 19:39
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Brock Landers posted:I remember reading about that when I changed them on my M30. I think the difference was in the pintle caps and the o-rings (mostly the o-rings). Those have to be the correct ones for your engine. I ordered the Ford injectors and bought the o-rings from the dealership. Worked out fine, but the different pintle caps made them fit a bit tight. Never caused a problem though. These came with brand new o-rings though. And it's not a girth fit issue, it's a length issue  . Meaning, the orange body of this injector doesn't bridge the gap between the bottom of the fuel rail and the top of the manifold, leaving room for them to push down under pressure. I've actually looked around a bit more and it looks like the ones I got are used in BMW's V8 engines and some I4s. There's another website out there that specializes in Mustang parts that also have a section for BMW cross-compatible injectors: http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/fuel-injectors/bmw/ And wouldn't you know it... the ones I got don't list my engine. So the guy I bought them from is basically a scamming rear end in a top hat who listed a bunch of random motors/models and I nearly set my engine bay on fire over it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260649580000&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Those are the correct ones. I guess I'll buy them now since I need a car, and I'll start the complaint process against the first guy in the meantime.
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Aug 17, 2010 20:04
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Anyone ever have problems with their e30 hood not popping correctly? It lifts up like its popped, but when you try and pull it open it feels like something is catching, almost like some sort of latch didn't release correctly. I've tried using the backup way of opening it through the grill and it does the exact same thing... Sort of came out of nowhere and now I'm worried to drive the car because I can't top off the coolant(she devours it). The car is an 86 325e.
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Aug 17, 2010 20:31
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jaspertron posted:Anyone ever have problems with their e30 hood not popping correctly? It lifts up like its popped, but when you try and pull it open it feels like something is catching, almost like some sort of latch didn't release correctly. I've tried using the backup way of opening it through the grill and it does the exact same thing... My E30 does that sometimes. You're saying the hood release pops it at the front, right? Mine does but sometimes it just doesn't want to slide forward very easily. The key is to pull harder. 
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Aug 17, 2010 21:25
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McMadCow posted:My E30 does that sometimes. You're saying the hood release pops it at the front, right? Mine does but sometimes it just doesn't want to slide forward very easily. The key is to pull harder. Yeah, the release mechanism just isn't popping the hood far enough forward. When I pop mine I have to grab on it by the winshield and pull it towards the front of the car, then lift. The hood has little rollers that guide it near the winshield and I believe those are what will prevent it from opening unless it is fully foward.
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Aug 17, 2010 21:56
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Crustashio posted:Yeah, the release mechanism just isn't popping the hood far enough forward. When I pop mine I have to grab on it by the winshield and pull it towards the front of the car, then lift. The hood has little rollers that guide it near the winshield and I believe those are what will prevent it from opening unless it is fully foward. Yup, pretty much what started happening to mine one day. Right now it's getting gutted for track duty so it's a minor little concern at this point.
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Aug 17, 2010 22:54
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Dotcom656 posted:Okay I just got home from Inception. he is awesommmee! Late congrats!
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Aug 17, 2010 22:56
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McMadCow posted:My E30 does that sometimes. You're saying the hood release pops it at the front, right? Mine does but sometimes it just doesn't want to slide forward very easily. The key is to pull harder. I guess I'll try this "pull harder" technique when I get home tonight. Thanks
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Aug 17, 2010 23:57
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doogle posted:Doesn't matter to me,just want it done right you know? Coxton's on Route 17 in Yorktown - the southern part past the Victory Blvd intersection - always did bodywork for me when I lived there in high school and did a good job for a decent price, for what it's worth. I live in Portsmouth now and have no idea where I'd go near here in your situation.
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Aug 18, 2010 02:14
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jaspertron posted:I guess I'll try this "pull harder" technique when I get home tonight. Thanks Well that didn't exactly work. Tried pulling it forward, putting all my weight on it with no effect. Same thing from tugging it. Also tried having someone pull the lever while I tugged forward with no effect either. I called the shop next door to my place and they seem to think they'll be able to pop it open for me if I swing it by in the morning, going to give them a shot at it I think. At this point I can't drive it more than a mile or so until I can top off the coolant.
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Aug 18, 2010 04:57
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Crustashio posted:Yeah, the release mechanism just isn't popping the hood far enough forward. When I pop mine I have to grab on it by the winshield and pull it towards the front of the car, then lift. The hood has little rollers that guide it near the winshield and I believe those are what will prevent it from opening unless it is fully foward. It's most likely the torsion spring at the front (part #26 here) that's gone weak, try to replace it. It did the trick on my old E34. However, on my newest E34 I did that, and it still didn't work, so I suspect it's a combination of the torsion spring and the dampers that do the forward motion. I'm just too cheap to replace the dampers, and it's actually kinda nice that it doesn't hammer forward with a massive clunk when I pop the hood. You can also just lift up at the front of the hood, then pull up at the back in order to open it, if it doesn't shoot the hood enough forward. It requires less force than "pulling" at the back near the windshield.
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Aug 18, 2010 11:37
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I have an E46 question for those who know these things. I reset my oilservice indicator after doing an oil change today. It reset the mileage on it to 15525 and then afterward it said 'INSPECTION 51a'. Does anyone know what inspection 51a means?
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Aug 18, 2010 18:09
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I totally didn't even think to crosspost in this thread but here you go! I'm having an E36 "Garage Sale" Car is located in central Connecticut. (Southington) It's a 1995 BMW 325i, Automatic, Schwarz II, Dove Grey interior (power, heated). 98k miles, really well maintained. It was stolen a while ago and they took off all my M3 bits I had, as well as any other aesthetic stuff they liked (and in some cases swapped it with their stock parts such as with the headlights and rear bumper). Car was recovered 2 days later. Any other details can be seen at the following bimmerforums thread. Ignore any prices there as I want you to just offer me a price then come to my garage and take what you want!! We have plenty of tools but it wouldn't hurt to bring your own just in case! Bonus if you can take the whole car I will let it go for $500 and you can have EVERYTHING. Please note it's currently up on blocks with no suspension (also note it has no radiator or alternator at the moment as I sold those too) but I do have wheels if you want to mount those and somehow drag it onto a trailer? Other more sensible option is to put it on some dollies and roll it on up. I don't really care what you do but this is a very clean shell of a car and the engine (as well as any other mechanical parts and most body panels and interior parts) are ripe for the picking. If you don't have platinum my gmail is tweenspiritjunkaccount
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Aug 18, 2010 19:31
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jaspertron posted:I called the shop next door to my place and they seem to think they'll be able to pop it open for me if I swing it by in the morning, There should be a hole in the front grille right by the driver's side headlight; poke a screwdriver in there to release the hood. You have to kind of twist the screwdriver to manually open the hood, but it is kind of self explanatory when you look at it.
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Aug 18, 2010 21:53
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fartingfool posted:Well, assuming you have a table vice you can try to clamp the hard line fitting in there good and tight and just try to back off the soft line nut with the proper wrench.. If you've been trying hand-held vice locks you're gonna be fighting yourself all day. Might even be worth taking a grinder and giving the nut you plan to lop off some flat sides to let the vice bite onto. Ended up taking this to Bill at Bimmer Clinic, in Elizabeth, NJ and he took care of it for me. Great BMW shop, by the way, for anyone that is not looking to do their own work!
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Aug 18, 2010 22:33
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random logic posted:There should be a hole in the front grille right by the driver's side headlight; poke a screwdriver in there to release the hood. You have to kind of twist the screwdriver to manually open the hood, but it is kind of self explanatory when you look at it. Tried that already, pops to the same spot I can already get it to with the regular release. The shop told me they couldn't look at it until late tomorrow or Friday so I just drove it again today. Going to experiment on it some more tonight so far nothing seems to work though.
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Aug 19, 2010 00:16
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A friend is shopping CPO'ed E90s in the 20k+ range, and I suggested that he look at E46s for less money upfront. Are ZHPs getting this cheap?: http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/1895952104.html I wonder if it's a scam of some sort. The pictures seem local, but I'd thought 330is would sell for more. Maybe it's starting to overheat?
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Aug 19, 2010 05:54
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kimbo305 posted:A friend is shopping CPO'ed E90s in the 20k+ range, and I suggested that he look at E46s for less money upfront. That's a big difference in miles compared to a CPO with 30-40k.
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Aug 19, 2010 13:36
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kimbo305 posted:A friend is shopping CPO'ed E90s in the 20k+ range, and I suggested that he look at E46s for less money upfront. Seems right for one with over 100k miles and I've seen 330's here in DC sell for 8-10k all the time. The newest E46s are almost 6 years old and the E90 has already had it's mid-cycle refresh, so it's not surprising.
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Aug 19, 2010 13:38
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I for one cannot wait until they replace the E90 with something that's not as godawful looking but whatever, I just got an E82 so I'm not looking to buy any time soon.
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Aug 19, 2010 14:31
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kimbo305 posted:A friend is shopping CPO'ed E90s in the 20k+ range, and I suggested that he look at E46s for less money upfront. Well first of all that isn't a ZHP. And $15k for a 2005 330i with 100k miles seems a tad high actually, but definitely in the ballpark. Real 2005 ZHP coupes with average milage are still closer to $20k though. Does he want a coupe e46? A sedan from around 2004 with 60k miles would be under $15k easily. If your friend is ready to pay over $20k for a low milage CPO e90, I think the only reasonable e46 alternative is to pay ~$15k for a lower milage and very well taken care of 330i. Regular maintenance on these cars is around $1k per year (average over a few years), so he'll still save a lot of money. But again, this only makes sense with the right car. It's out there but it may take awhile to find. The wheels on the one you linked are a personal warning flag.
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Aug 19, 2010 16:15
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I for one cannot wait until they replace the E90 with something that's not as godawful looking but whatever, I just got an E82 so I'm not looking to buy any time soon. Yes the original e90 is so unfortunate looking... but the remarkable thing is I think the facelifted E90 looks solid. Add the M-Sport cosmetic package and it is near dare I say lust worthy. It is incredible what the effect of a few carefully targeted tweaks can have. When the used market grows and the dust settles, I reckon a sizable gap will appear between the two versions.
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Aug 19, 2010 16:26
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ynotony posted:Well first of all that isn't a ZHP. Good catch. I know they offered a full leather interior to replace the alcantra, but I missed the lack of the M-tech II body kit.
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Aug 19, 2010 16:40
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