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People actually bought the club?
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Dec 3, 2012 02:18
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rear end in a top hat Bicycle posted:Man, BMW power seats must've been nice when they were new, but 15 years on and they can eat my rear end.
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Dec 3, 2012 03:40
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Oil change for the E39.  Used actual BMW oil for once, it was about the same price as the Castrol Edge I usually get anyway. Also went to the junkyard today. Picked up a distributor cap and rotor for my Volvo for $9. The Volvo has a misfire on every cylinder and I think it's the cap and rotor, even though they have about 10k on them. Saw a VW Passat W8 at the 'yard, too: 
CornHolio fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Dec 3, 2012 |
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Dec 3, 2012 06:37
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CornHolio posted:Used actual BMW oil for once, it was about the same price as the Castrol Edge I usually get anyway. Isn't BMW oil actually Castrol Syntec?
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Dec 3, 2012 07:33
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CornHolio posted:Oil change for the E39. I have very similar drive-on ramp things for working on my stuff, and have thought about using it for oil changes but was concerned that the oil pan not being level would mean it wouldn't drain fully/properly. Is this not a concern? Or do you do this on a slight downhill slope so that it's level?
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Dec 3, 2012 07:34
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VelociBacon posted:I have very similar drive-on ramp things for working on my stuff, and have thought about using it for oil changes but was concerned that the oil pan not being level would mean it wouldn't drain fully/properly. Is this not a concern? Or do you do this on a slight downhill slope so that it's level? Meh. I use ramps and the engine hasn't exploded. No matter what you won't be getting all the oil anyway. There'll be a bit stuck up in all the galleries, pump, the heads and various other places. The only time you'll really see anything odd happen is if you change the oil on something that's been running off sludge for a long time. Fun things like the oil pressure gauge having spasms, the engine rediscovering forgotten places to leak, or months / years of shiny bits being dislodged by the new oil. If the sludgefest is the case, usually it takes a couple of changes and driving at least to clear the poo poo out.
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Dec 3, 2012 08:03
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Finally got her towed to the mechanic. Hopefully this repair doesn't bankrupt me. What's the status on this? Hopefully it was easier than anticipated 
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Dec 3, 2012 09:31
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Tusen Takk posted:What's the status on this? Hopefully it was easier than anticipated gently caress yeah TimJim, It wasn't even the timing chain tensioner after all. I guess a spark plug wasn't torqued down enough and it blew out and right through a coil pack. I guess that's what I get for taking the internet's word for it and not even bothering to check it out myself. The Slowbalt is back in action. Super Aggro Crag fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Dec 3, 2012 |
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Dec 3, 2012 14:31
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VelociBacon posted:I have very similar drive-on ramp things for working on my stuff, and have thought about using it for oil changes but was concerned that the oil pan not being level would mean it wouldn't drain fully/properly. Is this not a concern? Or do you do this on a slight downhill slope so that it's level? It's such a slight angle that it's never been a concern. I've been doing it that way for many years. As someone else said, you're never getting all of it anyway. Sir Cornelius posted:Isn't BMW oil actually Castrol Syntec? It's the European formula, yes. From the Old School Maintenance Guide (available through the BMWCCA): quote:Note that the commercially available Castrol products sold at Wal-mart bear no resemblance (other than name) to the Castrol products sold at the BMW dealer and through BMW parts houses. It was $7.45/quart, which is what it usually is at Autozone anyway. ...times nine loving quarts  The manual says 7.9 quarts, but it drank all nine and was right at the top line on the dipstick.
CornHolio fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Dec 3, 2012 |
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Dec 3, 2012 16:29
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Super Aggro Crag posted:gently caress yeah TimJim, It wasn't even the timing chain tensioner after all. I guess a spark plug wasn't torqued down enough and it blew out and right through a coil pack. I guess that's what I get for taking the internet's word for it and not even bothering to check it out myself. The Slowbalt is back in action. Glad to hear dude!! Now to change the tensioner since apparently the gods have smiled upon you and given you a second change 
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Dec 3, 2012 16:32
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Lowclock posted:Heat up the little metal nub on the end of the plastic sheathe with a lighter or something so you can pull the plastic out, cut a couple mm of the plastic sheathing off, then heat up the metal tip again and slide the sheathe back into it. Don't even have to unbolt the motors or anything. I think one or more of the gears in the little gear box are stripped. It's definitely not on the motor side. I hear the cable turning at the inlet of the gear box. 1/3 of me wants to fix it right, 1/3 of me wants to just cut the seat back arm and weld at the angle I want, and 1/3 of me wants to just throw some bomber seats in there. Who will win?
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Dec 3, 2012 17:14
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CornHolio posted:...times nine loving quarts Did you include the volume of the filter?
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Dec 3, 2012 19:48
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I changed the oil in my beater Civic today. It's been raining all weekend so the ground was nice and wet to lay around on. I couldn't find the source of the clunk in the front end while it was up there, but it probably needs everything (166k miles).
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Dec 3, 2012 20:17
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rear end in a top hat Bicycle posted:I think one or more of the gears in the little gear box are stripped. It's definitely not on the motor side. I hear the cable turning at the inlet of the gear box.
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Dec 3, 2012 20:27
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_firehawk posted:Did you include the volume of the filter? I'm assuming that's where the extra went. I just thought the capacity listed in the manual included the amount in the filter.
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Dec 3, 2012 21:05
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Lowclock posted:If it's making a terrible grinding noise and you can feel it trying to move and jumping teeth, it's stripped gears. If it just kinda whirrs and doesn't move, then it's the cable. Usually gears only get stripped on the bottom height adjustment, and the seat back has the cable problems. Yeah, it's whirring. The end at the motor is fine. I guess I'll tear it back apart and check the cable connection at the gear box.
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Dec 4, 2012 00:21
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Decided to wash and clean my car while I could still wear shorts (woohoo 41*F outside!!), check my tire pressure, and see if that god-awful oil catch can I had put on was full.   I'm not sure why the wheels get as shiny as they do when normally they look like absolute garbage. Once I get my car-lift set up (if ever  ) I will be taking the wheels off, sanding, polishing, and painting them. Girlfriends are gross and leave hair everywhere. Lovingly suggest hairnets when allowing them into your vehicle. Ignore the stain from a Monster Energy drink, that's not her fault  I had to use a pet hair remover tool thingo on the vacuum to get most of it out. I think it's safe to say that I don't need this anymore. The bad clutch feel is coming from a bad clutch master cylinder, and I think it may even be leaking since even though I replaced the leaking brake caliper, the fluid has gone down a bit (but not to the extent that it used to and the brake light would come on).
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Dec 4, 2012 21:51
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Tusen Takk posted:Once I get my car-lift set up (if ever So... you're going to paint them after you polish them, eh?
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Dec 4, 2012 21:56
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EVERYWHERE 
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What size wheels are those? There's so much brake dust on mine right now but I'll clean them when I get my winter set up on this weekend. I plan on powder-coating them black over the winter as well.
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Dec 4, 2012 21:56
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meatpimp posted:So... you're going to paint them after you polish them, eh? You know what I mean good sir. Super Aggro Crag posted:What size wheels are those? There's so much brake dust on mine right now but I'll clean them when I get my winter set up on this weekend. I plan on powder-coating them black over the winter as well. These are 17", and they look really really good on Cobalts. You can pop the centre Saturn insignia thingo out and pop in the Chevy ones from the stock CSS rims. I want to get them powdercoated but I can't really justify spending $300 on that right now. edit: ignore the ricerstripe on the hood: 
FAT32 SHAMER fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Dec 4, 2012 |
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Dec 4, 2012 21:58
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I replaced the broken brake fluid reservoir cap on the trailer. Apparently Trojan and AL-KO have the same cap type. That's nice. The trailer place however doesn't have drum brake spring kits. The gently caress. It's needed one for years. Some dimwit didn't assemble the brakes properly and the shoe / drum ate a spring. I even found a bearing roller in the drum.
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Dec 4, 2012 23:00
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Tusen Takk posted:Girlfriends are gross and leave hair everywhere. Lovingly suggest hairnets when allowing them into your vehicle. Guys with long hair shed even more 
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Dec 5, 2012 04:56
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I suppose it counts. Taking advantage of having the trailer again I shifted the VW so I could hitch it up so it didn't tip over and loaded the trailer up with stuff to throw out. It's rusty because it used to have a toolbox covering the whole side. there also used to be a side ramped front bit for mowers or something like that. The toolbox was ridiculously heavy and the front ramp poorly done so I cut them off. I want to fix the front bit and put it back on but with an actual frame, and make the side toolbox bolt on although it's way too heavy for me to lift. 
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Dec 5, 2012 08:23
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Tusen Takk posted:ignore the ricerstripe on the hood: Usually asymmetrical stripes go through driver seat. This just looks terribad offset to passenger side.
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Dec 5, 2012 17:00
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Tusen Takk posted:I want to get them powdercoated but I can't really justify spending $300 on that right now. You could always spend $20 on some plastidip and see how that works for you. It can be hard to find, but Home Depot usually carries black for about $7 a can. And if you decide you don't like it you can just peel it right off. It really is as easy to peel off as youtube makes it look, I was very surprised.
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Dec 5, 2012 17:43
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Old and busted vs new hotness. Original floormats in my Honda were disintegrating. Had new ones custom made. 
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Dec 5, 2012 21:59
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cleaned the crap out of my windshield/windows/mirrors. Its amazing how much clearer they are now. I never realized how bad they had gotten since it built up slowly, but its like night and day now.
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Dec 5, 2012 23:59
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Replaced the airbag frame in my Boxster, and then the fuse for the horn, and now can toot at people again!
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Dec 6, 2012 00:54
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Hello Spaceman posted:Old and busted vs new hotness. I'm impressed with your custom mat. Looks great, and of good quality. Where did you get them made?
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Dec 6, 2012 02:02
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Imperador do Brasil posted:I'm impressed with your custom mat. Looks great, and of good quality. Where did you get them made? This, and how much is something like this?
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Dec 6, 2012 02:51
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Not mine, but in the girlfriend's car did oil change and bled the brakes. We had done the brake fluid years back, but never got it quite right and have had a spongy pedal since. Did it again with speed bleeders, got a bunch of air out and the pedal is nice and firm now. Third car I've used them on, I can't recommend them enough. Also, she did nearly all the work this time, other than me breaking loose the really stuck stuff.   
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Dec 6, 2012 05:01
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Imperador do Brasil posted:I'm impressed with your custom mat. Looks great, and of good quality. Where did you get them made? Bovril Delight posted:This, and how much is something like this? I'm in South Africa, and there's a local online store that offers custom-made mats. Try to stifle your laughter as you take in the fantastic, professional design of https://www.lovemycar.co.za. I just emailed them directly because they didn't have the S2000 logo listed online. I asked if I could supply it, and they were very friendly and helpful. Turns out they had the logo, and they were willing to offer custom embroidery colours (red), as well as doing red piping along the edges. The Honda dealer wanted R1800 (around $200) for a set of OEM mats. These, using a really high-quality carpet material, cost R700 incl. shipping, which works out to $80.
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Dec 6, 2012 06:30
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Did the ball joints in my corolla today. The worst one:  New one: 
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Dec 7, 2012 01:33
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So this is less about what I did to my car so much as what my car did to my pocketbook - as I was getting on the freeway to go home today my exhaust did a thing; I pulled over to the shoulder, slapped the pipe back into where it rusted out of the muffler and with a rather  exhaust I made my way to the local muffler shop and had a new one welded on. The kindly technician asked if I wanted a regular or 'performance' exhaust and I laughed and told him I'd take the 'performance' one just for kicks. Well he upgraded it to a Flowmaster 50 for free, nice! Then when I actually got home I noticed this gracing my rear passenger tire;  I usually don't walk around the passenger side of the car but I parked in a different stall then I usually do, I guess the car gods got me back for the muffler? Anyways I took it down to Discount Tire and had it replaced under warranty, the tire was only 9 loving days old, holy poo poo.  On my next couple days off (mid-week) I get to replace the CV Axles, outer tie rod ends and the driver side lower control arm, yay me.
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Dec 8, 2012 00:48
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Tanz-Kommandant posted:I pulled over to the shoulder, slapped the pipe back into where it rusted out of the muffler and with a rather This happened to me with one of my 240sx's except it was a shitcan fake carbon fibre muffler exhaust system that was on it when I bought it - so I just put on some work gloves I had in the car and ripped the whole exhaust out, and stuck it upright in a garbage dumpster outside of a busy corner store. Got a lot of laughs. Then had an open-header 240 for a week while I waited to have the money to deal with it.
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Dec 8, 2012 07:01
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Drove it 120km. Santa photo time. The whole trip I was watching the voltmeter. It's a little below half. Kind of worrying.
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Dec 8, 2012 08:40
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Did the thermostat in my GTP. Solved the CEL issue and the trouble with my heater not getting warm despite my 45 minute commute. Since I've committed to doing all of my own work on mine and my girlfriends car. I'm amazed how simple and cheap everything has become. A good set of tools and working up the gumption to actually dig in and turn a wrench makes a big difference. Not only with the checkbook but with keeping on top of maintenance.
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Dec 8, 2012 08:43
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Nathan Explosion posted:Since I've committed to doing all of my own work on mine and my girlfriends car. I'm amazed how simple and cheap everything has become. A good set of tools and working up the gumption to actually dig in and turn a wrench makes a big difference. Not only with the checkbook but with keeping on top of maintenance. It's really surprising isn't it? I've always done basic stuff myself since I was 16 (34 now), but in the past 3 years I've found myself doing more and more stuff myself. I'm at the point where I feel as if I can tackle anything that doesn't require cracking the engine or transaxle open. I did pay a shop to do my transaxle/clutch swap, but at the time I lived in university housing.. and they had a strict "uh yeah, you can't even open the hood to check your oil" policy. I'm still putting a lot of poo poo off simply because Nissan shoehorned a 2.4 into a space designed for a 1.6, but friends are offering me the use of engine hoists and even lifts in exchange for beer or  - next project is the timing chain, at least one of the guides is broken (rattles bad for 2-3 seconds on a cold start, some barely audible "timing chain slapping around" noises afterwards, and chunks of plastic drained out with the oil last summer). The only reason I haven't tackled it is the garage is crammed full, and the driveway is too steep to safely attempt anything beyond an oil change. I'm looking at nearly 2 days of work to do a timing chain refresh (both chains, all the guides, tensioners) if I do it with no help.  The only real issues with the car (aside from the timing chain) are a bad motor mount and a bad CV joint - CV joint is an hour of work without air tools, so welp... I'll probably tackle the mount next weekend, I'm getting sick of hearing the exhaust slam into the bottom of the car every time I downshift. Even with 166k on it, the only oil leak (currently) is from the oil pressure sender... which is literally  at AutoZone, I just haven't gotten around to it. Even with synthetic, I never have to top it off between oil changes. Not bad for a 1999 (built 12/98) that's inching closer to 200k...  This year has been damned expensive though... Original transaxle started making horrible noises. Finally found another one online, guy told me it'd sat for a couple of years... then once I said "uh why is it so drat loud" he said "oh lol it sat for 8 years". Had clutch and motor mounts replaced at the same time. $1000 total. Nissan didn't make many of these with a manual, which makes finding parts a bitch. On the plus side, OEM Nissan clutch, new rear main seal. Found another transaxle. $300 + $350 labor at a seedy junkyard. Found out the transaxle I got (which came out of a 98) is actually from a 00 - shorter final drive, slightly less slow because of that. No idea how many miles are actually on it, and it grinds on the 1-2 shift when it's cold. VIN shows the car it originally shipped with was totaled with 40k, car it came from showed 170k. Front main seal - $8 Distributor o-ring - $6 Vacuum/refill of a/c due to thinking it had moisture (wound up being right) - $40 Tires: $500ish. Brake pads: $20 Serpentine belt: $15 Battery: $60 Paid $2500 for the car 2 1/2 years ago... on the plus side, it should break 300k with nothing beyond basic maintenance at this point. I hope.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:43 on Dec 8, 2012 |
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Dec 8, 2012 12:31
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Fixed a short in the electrical system that took out all of the lights in the dash, the stereo, the doors, the radio, the climate control.. you know.. everything. At some point, someone made an aftermarket stereo attachment which attached beneath the passenger side foot well. I removed the wires and cleaned all of that up in August - or so I thought. I somehow missed a wire that was nested way back and wedged behind several devices, which was tied to the radio dimmer; evidently they never found anywhere to use it, so it was snipped. The electrical tape they had put around the stripped wire was unraveling, and it was grounding out occasionally with an inline 5a self-resetting fuse on it. This was enough to completely mess with the PMW signal across the dimmer via pin 2, with a ground killing everything across 2, 3, and 9. A snip, a crimp, and heat shield and some heat shrink later, and she works just fine.
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Dec 8, 2012 17:36
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Just changed the oil, coil packs, spark plugs, air, oil, and fuel filters, coolant, and wipers on my wife's '02 Protege. It rolled 150,000 last week so I thought it was a good time to do a tune up. It's still got the factory timing belt but gently caress it, who has time for that. I did the motor mounts last weekend with a floor jack and a block of wood. I also need to do the head gasket because it leaks some exhaust gas but eh, gently caress that too. On beater cars I only do timing belts and head gaskets when I have to and as long as it burns less than a quart of oil a month I don't care. Paul Boz_ fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Dec 8, 2012 |
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Dec 8, 2012 18:36
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