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ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

MJP posted:

I physically can't play in rockstar position - I can play for maybe about ten minutes before my wrist starts to hurt. Classical position is about the only thing that I can do, or at least something close enough so the neck faces upwards. I'm able to do neck/shoulder pull, I just gotta remind myself to do it more.

I tried electric, felt cramped, switched to classical, realized I didn't really care about anything written for classical guitar (and flamenco is too loving much for a very real newbie) so after working with an Eart ergo guitar, came to realize it's just a matter of getting a guitar whose lower bout allows classical position playing. That plus the fat neck seems to really help. Gonna go pull the trigger on the B&G Little Sister, the question now becomes humbucker or P90.

I hope it clicks with you like it did for me! It's definitely pricey, but I feel like it's fairly unique, too. Not much else like it on the market.

I've got the humbucker one, I don't like having to deal with hum. Compared to my other humbucker guitar, the B&G sounds very full to me, more bassy. It also feels somehow like it has a slight built-in overdrive characteristic, like it is always just starting to break up even with the volume down. I don't know if that's a property of the pickups, or semi-hollows in general, or just this model. Anyway it sounds & feels great to me. Hope you like it!

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istewart
Apr 13, 2005

Still contemplating why I didn't register here under a clever pseudonym

Carth Dookie posted:

Yeah, pulling using your arm/shoulder instead of squeezing, especially for barre chords, is that "one weird trick" that actually works.

Chiming in that this, as well as the tip for trying to keep thumb positioned in between index and middle fingers, are making a big difference for me in a short amount of time. I'm going to have to revisit Justin's one-string-at-a-time "chord perfect" exercises with this in mind this week. I'm planning on leaving my thumb off the neck for the first couple rounds of each chord, and then make sure I'm keeping it very light. When I pay attention to what I'm doing, I notice that my thumb on my fretting hand seems to sympathetically grip a bit harder when I strum a chord - I'm trying too drat hard!

I also looked at the Alexander technique a.p. dent pointed out; it seems quite similar to some of the experience I've had with Chinese "internal" martial arts like tai chi. I was doing seminars for a style called baguazhang that I really need to pick back up, I'm drawing on that for the idea of pulling with my arm and shoulder. Many of those styles are strict about the idea of keeping your shoulders rolled back rather than hunched forward; as I understand it, this keeps them more connected to your spine/core and ultimately center of gravity.

I decided I was going to rewire my Harley Benton LP clone entirely, instead of just replacing the faulty switch, and picked up a pair of Duncan humbuckers towards that end. Unfortunately, I've run up against stripped screw heads on the bridge mounting ring. It seems they had already begun to strip during the manufacturing process, probably overtightened at the factory, but I only made it worse. Any tips for extracting these without risking the finish or dipping into full-on woodworking?




Ultimately I'm a bit less happy with the purchase than I was initially. I bought my HB Strat with the full intention of eventually modding it as a learning experience, but I had hoped this one could be a humbucker-equipped guitar that I never touched and then spent more time with as I became ready to play more high-gain/metal stuff. The body is absolutely beautiful, and I doubt I could have gotten such a good set-neck left-handed Les Paul body to build out myself in the same price range. The Gotoh bridge and tuners it came with are pretty nice as well. But the faulty switch made it untrustworthy, and the Tesla pickups it came with ultimately didn't sound like much of anything, no matter what amp or effects I ran it through. Maybe I should have stretched for the Schecter PT I was looking at to start with, it probably would have been less than $300 more once shipping on the Harley Benton was factored in.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
Hey guys, this probably is a bad place to ask this question, but you guys probably know about the solder part. I've felt a little dizzy today, nothing too severe though. I did a soldering job earlier, in which I did not have a fan, but I did have open windows right next to me and I was trying not to inhale the fumes as I was doing it. This is the first time I've soldered in a long while. I don't really need to worry about a single session too much do I? I reckon the dizziness is probably from being out working outside yesterday, I got sunburnt fairly badly, and I know from past experience sunburns can make me have some weird flu-ish symptoms for a couple days, but my anxiety is also telling me I have lead poisoning and I'm going to die.

I can take this to a more appropriate place, but like I said, I just wanted to ask where I know some of you have experience with the soldering part.

Baron von Eevl
Jan 24, 2005

WHITE NOISE
GENERATOR

🔊😴
Not a doctor nor an expert but: I think lead poisoning is more a long term exposure risk. There are probably other noxious fumes you might have been exposed to but i think those effects would have been more immediate.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
From what I understand, I don't think single solder sessions are too risky, but its been a while since the last time I've done it. And when I say I didn't have a fan, I just mean like a box fan in the window. The ceiling fans were on circulating air. Although there was one weird connection I had a hard time seeing and wound up in a weird position to get a face full of fumes but I held my breath for the single second or so it took. At this point my anxiety is probably messing me up more than the light-headness. I'll keep an eye on it and go to the doctor if it gets worse or something weird happens though.

e: Now that I think about it, it is probably just a bit of sun poisoning. Last night when I got home I did have some very mild chills, so I guess I should have just worn sunscreen, or not went out at all and stayed in to play guitar.

Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 05:28 on May 8, 2023

Jyrraeth
Aug 1, 2008

I love this dino
SOOOO MUCH

From what I understand is that lead is less the worry for short term exposure. The fumes are from the rosin that is fairly irritating to the airways/eyes but I don't recall the dangers of breathing it in. I'd probably place it somewhere in the "diesel exhaust" region of "don't breathe this poo poo in".

Doctor etc if it gets worse but I'd say the working out in the sun is much more likely.

Wowporn
May 31, 2012

HarumphHarumphHarumph

Drunk Driver Dad posted:

Hey guys, this probably is a bad place to ask this question, but you guys probably know about the solder part. I've felt a little dizzy today, nothing too severe though. I did a soldering job earlier, in which I did not have a fan, but I did have open windows right next to me and I was trying not to inhale the fumes as I was doing it. This is the first time I've soldered in a long while. I don't really need to worry about a single session too much do I? I reckon the dizziness is probably from being out working outside yesterday, I got sunburnt fairly badly, and I know from past experience sunburns can make me have some weird flu-ish symptoms for a couple days, but my anxiety is also telling me I have lead poisoning and I'm going to die.

I can take this to a more appropriate place, but like I said, I just wanted to ask where I know some of you have experience with the soldering part.

I am a huge moron and have never used proper ventilation when soldering. I am really easily made sick but I don't think I've ever reacted negatively before to it. To your other point though, I get the exact same thing where if I get too much sun I will feel fluish and possibly motion sick that night/next day, happened to me a couple times in the past few weeks since it just got nice outside here finally, and also happened on my trip to California last month. It's a catch 22 cause I almost never sunburn but that means the symptoms from too much sun sneak up on me everytime cause I don't have a visual indicator I was out too long

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



I've breathed a poo poo ton of solder fumes

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Same. I wouldn't say you should huff it but you should be fine.

TEMPLE GRANDIN OS
Dec 10, 2003

...blyat
I bet one cigarette is worse than soldering all day in a closet

Pondex
Jul 8, 2014

istewart posted:


I decided I was going to rewire my Harley Benton LP clone entirely, instead of just replacing the faulty switch, and picked up a pair of Duncan humbuckers towards that end. Unfortunately, I've run up against stripped screw heads on the bridge mounting ring. It seems they had already begun to strip during the manufacturing process, probably overtightened at the factory, but I only made it worse. Any tips for extracting these without risking the finish or dipping into full-on woodworking?




Try putting a rubber band in between the screw and screwdriver. That usually gives it enough friction to get the screw out.

TEMPLE GRANDIN OS
Dec 10, 2003

...blyat
magnetized Phillips bit and try and slide a thin feeler gauge or some under the head if you can

if you gently caress it up np rings are cheap

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Thankfully it's a very small screw and likely doesn't need much torque to remove.

A manual (not power tool) impact driver can help. A gentle downward impact combined with a twist might be enough.

The original Phillips bit might not work, go to the next size up. Since the material is removed, the original has nothing to bite into any more. Use a bigger (next size up) Phillips bit. If you have a bit to spare, take a narrow bit and slightly grind off the tip. It will allow the edges of the bit to sit deeper against the edge of the screw. Give it a gentle tap to seat it. When backing it out, lightly push down.

You can always use a small punch or chisel to create a dimple in the screw and gently tap it backwards until it breaks loose.

You can also try to grind a flat notch into it and use a flat head. If you have a much of small flat screwdrivers, you can try jamming those in and see if you can get it loose. Or a star/square bit.

If none of that works, you might be risking the pickup guard to get it out. I would put something over the delicate areas in case you slip and don't damage your guitar. I hate when people over torque cheap, lovely screws.

Kazinsal
Dec 13, 2011
Or go to Harbor Freight and spend twelve bucks on a screw extractor set.

Chip McFuck
Jul 24, 2007

We droppin' like a comet and this Vulcan tried to Spock it/These Martians tried to do it, but knew they couldn't cop it

There's also the nuclear option of sawing through or breaking the pickup ring so you'd have better purchase area on the screws. Mounting ring screws don't have a lot of torque applied to them, so I'd bet you could unscrew them by hand or with a set of Vampliers. You'd have to get a new pickup ring with this method, though.

Dang It Bhabhi!
May 27, 2004



ASK ME ABOUT
BEING
ESCULA GRIND'S
#1 SIMP

Solder fumes are almost entirely flux since lead doesn’t vaporize at soldering temperature. Flux is toxic too, don’t worry. 😊

Stalizard
Aug 11, 2006

Have I got a headache!
My Tonika came in and it's in way better shape than I thought it would be - it's only a little unplayable, when I was expecting it to be completely unplayable. I don't think all of the pickup selection positions work right and the tone pot seems to just be ornamental but I put it together and plugged it in and it fuckin rocks, the notes it will let you play actually sound pretty good.

Anyway the reason it's mostly unplayable is because it's got a zero fret that's worn all to hell. The strings have all dug grooves into it and they pop out when you try to bend a note, and the action on the high e is so low that it doesn't actually start working til you get to the fifth fret. I'm going thru tutorials now to see if this is something I think I can replace myself. It makes sense to replace it with a stainless steel fret, right? I want to be true to its janky Soviet roots but also I want to be able to actually play worst song on ugliest guitar without having to go thru this again.

anyway here is a picture


e: wow I'm a big moron, the zero fret still needs work but I raised the bridge up and it plays a lot better. remember to do the easy things first!

Stalizard fucked around with this message at 22:59 on May 8, 2023

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


I think I’ve narrowed down my buzz issues to the low E string, and to everything else. Most of the time I just gently caress up my finger placement, and that’s a matter of practice. But the low E string buzzes very easily. I’d say I have like a 50% of getting buzz if I play it open. I’m not really sure what’s going on or why it happens - what should I try and fix first?

Southern Cassowary
Jan 3, 2023

today i reinforced the mantra slow is clean and clean is fast in an incredibly overt way

i've been working on getting better at metal rhythm and i've got some metallica, exodus, and anthrax songs i'm working on that are at the edge of my ability right now. i've been playing them kind of tense recently and i decided today i was going to play each song at 80% speed before playing it at full speed and it was like i reprogrammed my brain. tension free, significantly cleaner. i knew it would work but i absolutely did not expect it to work as well as it did.

Dang It Bhabhi!
May 27, 2004



ASK ME ABOUT
BEING
ESCULA GRIND'S
#1 SIMP

Pollyanna posted:

I think I’ve narrowed down my buzz issues to the low E string, and to everything else. Most of the time I just gently caress up my finger placement, and that’s a matter of practice. But the low E string buzzes very easily. I’d say I have like a 50% of getting buzz if I play it open. I’m not really sure what’s going on or why it happens - what should I try and fix first?

Can you take a close-up picture of the nut and first fret for that string? Often the nut is filed too deep and a small shim under the nut sorts it out.

Good Soldier Svejk
Jul 5, 2010

Dang It Bhabhi! posted:

Can you take a close-up picture of the nut and first fret for that string? Often the nut is filed too deep and a small shim under the nut sorts it out.

A good quick test fix for this is putting a bit of foil into the nut slot in question (since it's something you probably already have and it should conform to the shape fairly well)

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


This feels like the setup to a deez nuts joke :mad:

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


How about some video?

The nut:

https://youtu.be/K92NIGrr3So

The fret:

https://youtu.be/H-pL9-JEvCs

And the buzz itself:

https://youtu.be/pxA8k_tax9o

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



you're plucking from an angle very aggressively and its laying flat. does it buzz in playing position when you're picking normally and can you hear it through the amp?

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Somewhat less so and I’m not sure, respectively.

https://youtu.be/dLneSiefJP0

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



That sounds like it is buzzing quite a bit. If nobody here can help fix it , take it to a luthier/setup guy. Preferably one who isn't too busy to talk you through what they're doing. it's always worth getting a setup if only as a learning experience imo.

edit:

For my Strat setup I start by tuning guitar - > check and adjust neck relief - > repeats retune and neck relief check - > adjust saddle height on each string as low as I can before buzzing -> retune - > check action

if the action has to be too high to stop buzzing I take it to luthier for a better eye.

ethanol fucked around with this message at 01:35 on May 10, 2023

landgrabber
Sep 13, 2015

is there a better way to set up my guitar if capo-ing stuff never gets me to the right pitch/makes the strings a little buzzier? or does that just come with the territory? fwiw my intonation and action in standard are totally good

landgrabber
Sep 13, 2015

also: any advice for learning new tunings?

right now im trying to get way into DADF#BE cause i love snail mail

Dang It Bhabhi!
May 27, 2004



ASK ME ABOUT
BEING
ESCULA GRIND'S
#1 SIMP

That's a pretty hard pluck. Does it buzz if you just strum a chord normally?

Weird BIAS
Jul 5, 2007

so... guess that's it, huh? just... don't say i didn't warn you.
You can try the James Taylor offset tuning adjustment to make the capo work better. Tune each string off by the following cents. Should work in other standard tunings but for the tuning you are working with you can try knocking the low D and F# strings down an extra cent or two to see if it works out.

E -3
B -6
G -4
D -8
A -10
E -12

800peepee51doodoo
Mar 1, 2001

Volute the swarth, trawl betwixt phonotic
Scoff the festune
I never understood that tuning method. It's supposed to compensate for pulling notes sharp when you're picking them so why not just, you know, play the string as you're tuning it?

Weird BIAS
Jul 5, 2007

so... guess that's it, huh? just... don't say i didn't warn you.
It's more complicated than the pick itself pulling notes sharp it's also about Just Intonation being a thing in addition to Equal Temperment. Taylor's tuning acts as a middle ground between these two temperments (our ear hears both as in tune to an extent) and also works to compensate for capos (and just, notes in general when fretted) pulling notes sharp.

Gramps
Dec 30, 2006


I just got in from reverb one of my all-time favorite Super cheap Secret weapons that every guitar player should buy. I'll make a video for you guys soon. If you have 100 bucks you're going to want to watch the video

Edit: sorry if I'm being coy, it's more fun if I build it up a bit

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Is it a tuner? Or actually a compressor?

Dang It Bhabhi!
May 27, 2004



ASK ME ABOUT
BEING
ESCULA GRIND'S
#1 SIMP

Gramps posted:

I just got in from reverb one of my all-time favorite Super cheap Secret weapons that every guitar player should buy. I'll make a video for you guys soon. If you have 100 bucks you're going to want to watch the video

Edit: sorry if I'm being coy, it's more fun if I build it up a bit

😡 tell us!

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



landgrabber posted:

is there a better way to set up my guitar if capo-ing stuff never gets me to the right pitch/makes the strings a little buzzier? or does that just come with the territory? fwiw my intonation and action in standard are totally good

Well much like for play style action is really your preference not a one size fits all. Most players like low as possible for playability. But not all… many bluegrass players prefer higher action because they can bang on the strings and not buzz. And it increases volume to have stringers higher. With a capo pretty much the same deal, raise the action saddle heights a bit to clear more. ( on an electric this is possible anyways, a acoustic of course not nearly as easy to add saddle. But it’s up to you if it’s worth the trade off)

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
I'll bet it's a tubescreamer.

Armacham
Mar 3, 2007

Then brothers in war, to the skirmish must we hence! Shall we hence?
Bad monkey

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
It's one of these.

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Wowporn
May 31, 2012

HarumphHarumphHarumph
A plug that vibrates harder if you hit the right notes

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