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That is a nice big girl shrimp you have there  . Look at the swimmerets, she has a "skirt" of sorts. Males look much thinner because they don't have to carry the eggs there. Also they tend to be smaller and less colorful than the females, with dotted flanks instead of solid red. She's actually rather big for a cherry, looks pretty.
Shellception fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Nov 22, 2016 |
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Nov 22, 2016 15:21
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Aww yay! I just wish that Jackson wouldn't be such a dick to her, I've seen him chase her around. She's faster than he is though, and is really pretty and she could win Best Supporting Tank Critter easily! But I hardly ever see her. 
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Nov 22, 2016 15:45
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Shrimp are social I think, if there are other shrimp around they know its safe. If she's by herself Sherman probably assumes everyone else got eaten and she's next. No wonder she's hiding! If she's big, she might also be old so don't be surprised if you only get a year or so out of her. Shrimp don't live that long. But she is beautiful, none of my cherries were ever as vivid as that (I'm assuming Sherman is an RCS not a CRS?). Getting more shrimp won't make your hairgrass grow faster but they might eat the brown algae. Corys won't eat your algae at all. They wouldn't be bothered by Jackson I don't think, they're armoured catfish after all. Sherman probably cops it due to being brightly coloured, an easy target, and more shrimp would mean Jackson's interest would be spread between more targets. Cories (and otos as well) are social so you wouldn't want to get just one, so not a good idea if your tank is too small. Plus cories like to poke around in the substrate and your hairgrass might not like that. I would say that hairgrass is still settling in, and maybe its not getting the light or nutrients it needs so it's going to grow slowly. To get a carpet going quickly you'll want to pamper that hairgrass a lot more - otherwise, like all things aquarium, you'll just need to have patience. Depending on how much you split up your hairgrass clumps when you planted, your dead bits might just be old hairgrass that's got nowhere to grow so it's dying off - or another thought, your tank just has different conditions from where it was originally grown so it will have a period where it adjusts to the new conditions. Just wait and see if you start getting runners from your hairgrass before giving up and changing to something else. I had some hairgrass in fine sand with mediocre lighting and it did put out some runners but then my rosy barbs ate all of it. At least your hairgrass is safe from being gobbled up!
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Nov 22, 2016 17:27
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Does RCS = Red Cherry Shrimp and CRS = Cherry Red Shrimp? If so then she is...haha jk I have no idea I got her at PetCo. I'm pretty sure it was the first? I wanted an amano but they said they are hard to get right now, something about breeding. That said, I do think RCS (or CRS) are beautiful and awesome. I would love to have a few more, but I'm afraid a few more may lead to a few dozen more, which may lead to a few hundred more? Seeing as I didn't know what sex this one was Im not sure I want to test my eyeballs and judgement. Or will they reach a certain "critical mass" in the tank and stop there, if they so happened to breed? I do have some runners from the hairgrass, so I'll let it roll for a bit. I can handle patience, it took me a month and a half to get a decent cycle finished.  I'd love to have a bunch of cherry shrimp roaming around in there making it all colorful. 
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Nov 22, 2016 19:26
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Thunder God Biden posted:Does RCS = Red Cherry Shrimp and CRS = Cherry Red Shrimp? If so then she is...haha jk I have no idea I got her at PetCo. I'm pretty sure it was the first? I wanted an amano but they said they are hard to get right now, something about breeding. That said, I do think RCS (or CRS) are beautiful and awesome. I would love to have a few more, but I'm afraid a few more may lead to a few dozen more, which may lead to a few hundred more? Seeing as I didn't know what sex this one was Im not sure I want to test my eyeballs and judgement. Or will they reach a certain "critical mass" in the tank and stop there, if they so happened to breed? She looks like a RCS, yeah (this: http://www.planetinverts.com/Red%20Cherry%20Shrimp.html though this gal is much less red than yours. Males usually look like this, minus the eggs of course). CRS have white and red bands (this: http://www.planetinverts.com/Crystal%20Red%20Shrimp.html). Sometimes the males and females are not so easy to distinguish, so the usual way to get a breeding pair is to start with a number like 6 and hope you don't get screwed by the sex ratio. You could also try to get a male, even if you are not sure the guys at the shop might know, although immature young females look like males so it's a bit of a gamble. And yes, they breed like mad if they are happy, about 20 shrimplets per female per month. They are fully formed, about 2mm versions of the adults, and rather fun to watch since they are tiny dots that behave exactly like the grown-ups, up to eating the same food and hanging out in the same corners . You have a betta, though, so most of them will probably end up as live food, unless he is too lazy to chase. He will probably help contain the shrimp explosion by a fair bit.Just as a curiosity, the problem with the Amanos is that they are very, very hard to breed. They live in streams, and unlike RCS, do not come out from the egg as fully-formed shrimps, but rather pretty ugly larvae not unlike those of mosquitoes. And as soon as they are born, they are washed out into the ocean, which means you need to net them (hard as it is) and keep them in saltwater, they cannot live in freshwater. As soon as they change into shrimps, they swim upstream, which means they then need freshwater and die if kept in saltwater. Some people have breed them but they tend to be wild-caught, so they are harder to get sometimes, while RCS just breed all year round
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Nov 22, 2016 20:33
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Hrm I will have to consider if I am willing to accept baby RCS murder. Jackson is DEFINITELY not lazy, and will probably not need betta pellets for quite some time if they started breeding. Edit: The wife says no baby RCS murder. I'd maybe be ok with it but she's a vegetarian soooo... Thunder God Biden fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Nov 22, 2016 |
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Nov 22, 2016 20:42
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Thunder God Biden posted:Hrm I will have to consider if I am willing to accept baby RCS murder. Jackson is DEFINITELY not lazy, and will probably not need betta pellets for quite some time if they started breeding. It IS quite hard to avoid it with fishes in, yeah. On the other hand, I had to move my surviving 2 female and 1 male RCS from their nano to a tank with 11 tetras and a xipho in a hurry. They both got berried, I planned to move them back as the time approached, then they both weren't berried anymore. I thought they had dropped the eggs, which happens sometimes. Turns out I suck at counting, because like a month later I started finding red guys everywhere, thirteen to be exact . They are good at hiding if given a place (mine had a hollow log that moms hung inside, and they hid from the fishes in there until they got too big for their mouths). But, yeah, some are going to be eaten and it's not pretty if you witness it . You can always get all females/all males if you want a non-breeding colony, they last for around a year and they are non-aggressive. If you're really interested, you can set up a small breeding tank with some hiding place and a small filter and heater, fill it with water from your aquarium and move the females when the time comes so the shrimplets are born there and not eaten. Though you will end up with a lot if you do that and it's probably a lot of hassle so  Bonus (bad phone) pic of a mom and 1-day-old shrimplet :
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Nov 22, 2016 21:45
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My tank has been running wonderfully this past month or so with the sun sun canister filter. That thing is a tank. Also awhile back I found a fry swimming around in the tank, turned out to be a dalmatian molly I bought was pregnant. I've got the little guy in the enclosure still and he's about a 1/4 inch long. I have clown loaches, mollies and danios in the tank do you think he's big enough now to let him out of the isolation net?
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Nov 22, 2016 22:32
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Tony Doughnuts posted:My tank has been running wonderfully this past month or so with the sun sun canister filter. That thing is a tank. Also awhile back I found a fry swimming around in the tank, turned out to be a dalmatian molly I bought was pregnant. I've got the little guy in the enclosure still and he's about a 1/4 inch long. I have clown loaches, mollies and danios in the tank do you think he's big enough now to let him out of the isolation net? How big are your clown loaches? Mine would hoover that guy up, but the big ones are like 9-10".
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Nov 22, 2016 22:56
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Tiny at this point. 3 maybe 4 inches long.
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Nov 22, 2016 23:27
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Loaches are dicks. They ate my corieswhich were twice their size
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Nov 22, 2016 23:36
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loving hell one of my cories and my lady betta biffed it. Going to get my water tested tomorrow because I can't figure out what the gently caress and now I'm terrified my adorable cory crew is going to crash. 
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Nov 23, 2016 03:35
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Any tips on doing water changes in a 10 gallon tank? I have one of those manual vacuum tubes that I feel like shakes everything around too violently, then putting the water back in seems just as chaotic to the fish in there.
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Nov 23, 2016 10:09
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Asstro Van posted:loving hell one of my cories and my lady betta biffed it. Going to get my water tested tomorrow because I can't figure out what the gently caress and now I'm terrified my adorable cory crew is going to crash. What else is in the tank? I'd do a well conditioned water change if a cory has died in there, there could have been a cory poison release - or maybe Ms Betta had a go at the cory and got poisoned? Had you seen any aggression? What else is in the tank? If its a small tank you don't want a cory poisoning cascade. I lost a trilineatus this week, noticed lethargy one afternoon, saw it listing to the side the next day and netted it into a hang on tank for observation (running the same water that it was in before) and it was dead the next day. No clear sign of external disease either, just really unwell out of the blue and no other tank inhabitants affected. Wondering if it took a hit from one of the big penguin tetras? Anyway you just don't know how a fish was bred or what it was treated like, what illnesses it was exposed to before it arrived at your tank. Sometimes fish just die Banana Man posted:Any tips on doing water changes in a 10 gallon tank? I have one of those manual vacuum tubes that I feel like shakes everything around too violently, then putting the water back in seems just as chaotic to the fish in there. You can always kink the tube to make it suck more gently, or put your finger over the end and have it only suck once you've got the tube where you want it. Or ram a piece of sponge in the tube to stop it sucking up anything beyond small particles. As for putting water back in, I use a long spouted bucket like this  and when i pour it into the tank, I aim it for something like the top of the magnet scraper, the top of the heater, a piece of sponge, something that's going to deflect the water sideways instead of letting it blast straight down. It's fairly easy to control where the water goes and how strongly you're tipping it with this kind of bucket so its possible to do it without too much disturbance. Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Nov 23, 2016 |
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Nov 23, 2016 13:26
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Ok thanks
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Nov 23, 2016 13:45
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Jiru posted:It IS quite hard to avoid it with fishes in, yeah. On the other hand, I had to move my surviving 2 female and 1 male RCS from their nano to a tank with 11 tetras and a xipho in a hurry. They both got berried, I planned to move them back as the time approached, then they both weren't berried anymore. I thought they had dropped the eggs, which happens sometimes. Turns out I suck at counting, because like a month later I started finding red guys everywhere, thirteen to be exact I was sort of coming around to that idea myself, that I would get a couple more females. 4-6 should round it out, yeah? They wouldn't create too big of a bio-load, would they? It's just a 5.5 gal tank. ...I just know I'm gonna accidentally end up with a male in there, then it's off to the races. I once bought a "male" hamster and ended up with 6 hamsters.
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Nov 23, 2016 14:05
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Banana Man posted:Any tips on doing water changes in a 10 gallon tank? I have one of those manual vacuum tubes that I feel like shakes everything around too violently, then putting the water back in seems just as chaotic to the fish in there. As for refilling, I just rest the bucket on the edge of the tank so I can pour with one hand and put my other hand under the stream of water to diffuse it. I recognize neither of these practices are without some concerns (health, possible stress on the tank seams) but they both strike me as relatively harmless.
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Nov 23, 2016 17:38
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Slugworth posted:To clarify, you mean that you're starting the siphon by shaking the tube around in the water, right? Instead of doing that, just start your siphon by sucking on the other end of the hose. I promise you won't get water in your mouth, unless you have real slow reflexes. Oh right I didn't even think of that, I don't use either method to get a siphon started since there's a non gross non mouth suck method you can use. Get your vacuum in the tank, fill the gravel cleaner end up with water, lift it up with the open end facing up, and the water will start running into the tube as soon as the vac end is higher than water level. Just put the open end gently up and down out of the water a few times, lifting it up above water level each time until suction gets going and the rest of the tube fills up, then turn it over and start vacuuming. It's a bit awkward since you end up with lots of tube in the water but you can do it gently with no shaking or tube slurping required. This method can even work just with a pipe and no gravel vac, just feed lots of the pipe into the tank and hold it under water. Cover the end that's outside the tank tightly, and pull the tube out. As soon as you get the liquid inside the tube up and over the side of the tank, gravity can take over. If this is hard to picture there are a few demos on YouTube, I'd link one if I wasn't phone posting.
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Nov 23, 2016 18:08
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Stoca Zola posted:What else is in the tank? I'd do a well conditioned water change if a cory has died in there, there could have been a cory poison release - or maybe Ms Betta had a go at the cory and got poisoned? Had you seen any aggression? What else is in the tank? If its a small tank you don't want a cory poisoning cascade. It's a 65g planted, only occupants were 12 corys and my lady betta. One cory died first, then lady betta, then another cory. I haven't seen any aggression, lady betta actually seemed to get along really well with the crew. No nipping or anything. She would sort of benignly follow them around sometimes, but never seemed to really react to them. Welp, all of my water stats look good. I dunno. The super helpful feedback I have received is "sometimes fish just die." Also thoroughly disappointed that store water testing consists of using the same strips I already use at home sooooooo not surprising that I didn't get any more information.
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Nov 23, 2016 19:03
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Stoca Zola posted:Oh right I didn't even think of that, I don't use either method to get a siphon started since there's a non gross non mouth suck method you can use. Get your vacuum in the tank, fill the gravel cleaner end up with water, lift it up with the open end facing up, and the water will start running into the tube as soon as the vac end is higher than water level. Just put the open end gently up and down out of the water a few times, lifting it up above water level each time until suction gets going and the rest of the tube fills up, then turn it over and start vacuuming. It's a bit awkward since you end up with lots of tube in the water but you can do it gently with no shaking or tube slurping required. Yeah, that's how I used to do it for my turtle tank, because gently caress putting my mouth anywhere near that salmonella soup. I'm not overly concerned about the fish tank though. I know there are some potential nasties in there, but YOLO, amirite?
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Nov 23, 2016 20:38
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Banana Man posted:Any tips on doing water changes in a 10 gallon tank? I have one of those manual vacuum tubes that I feel like shakes everything around too violently, then putting the water back in seems just as chaotic to the fish in there. Depending on how much you need to vacuum, you can always just use a piece of airline tubing for siphoning. That is what I used for my 16gal planted tank. Then used it again to siphon back (I had a shelf next to the tank that was higher than the water level anyway).
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Nov 23, 2016 22:57
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I use half inch braided hose tube from home Depot to out water back in my tank. It's slower but there's very little splashing and upsetting of the water. Helps keep the stress down and it almost seems like the fish enjoy playing in the stream.
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Nov 25, 2016 08:40
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Ok thanks for the tips
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Nov 25, 2016 13:54
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Decided to buy some guppy's and Endlers two months ago and now my tank has exploded with fry and I never knew they could cross breed, I'm getting some cool looking hybrids. I thought that most would be eaten by my Bolivian rams and candy cane tetras but there's so many places to hide I guess. Had to give my other halfs brother loads for his Jack Dempsey's as feeders.
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Nov 25, 2016 16:33
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Probably overkill for a 10g, but my life got so much easier after making one of these out of $15 in PVC. I put a ball valve on mine, but never even use it so could do it even cheaper than that. I can screw my Python right onto it, it hangs in place on the tank, and water comes out the holes on the side so doesn't disrupt the substrate.
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Nov 25, 2016 16:34
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Enos Cabell posted:Probably overkill for a 10g, but my life got so much easier after making one of these out of $15 in PVC. I put a ball valve on mine, but never even use it so could do it even cheaper than that. I can screw my Python right onto it, it hangs in place on the tank, and water comes out the holes on the side so doesn't disrupt the substrate. I am so not handy but I want this. You need to sell these things! gently caress do a Kickstarter.
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Nov 26, 2016 16:06
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Cowslips Warren posted:I am so not handy but I want this. You need to sell these things! gently caress do a Kickstarter. Hah, think I'll skip the kickstarter, but I'd sure be willing to make one and send it to you for cost of parts and shipping if you want. Without the valve (which is pretty much unnecessary) I think it's like $5 worth of PVC.
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Nov 26, 2016 19:30
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Phew, cuttlebone seems to have settled things. Pretty much zero ammonia, sky high nitrates, ph of 6.4-6.6. The two remaining snails finally died though, guess the got too injured by the failed cycle.
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Nov 28, 2016 05:50
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Our Endler females looked heavily pregnant since we brought them home in July, but no fishes were ever found. They didn't seem to go through a pregnant-empty cycle either, so . Turns out, moving them to the bigger, heavily planted tank did the trick, either due to different water parameters or better cover, because we found guppiets hiding in the grass two days ago  . They are almost translucent and less than 1cm long. Managed to net four and put them with the shrimp so they won't be eaten. They seem to feel safe together, they have formed the world's tiniest fish bank
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Nov 28, 2016 17:38
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I saw a gudgeon fry wiggler last night! The gudgeons have been spawning fairly frequently but when left alone, no eggs remain. Decided to try and raise some since one of my females got a blockage or was egg bound and died, and the injured one didn't recover either, so only three left. Kind of a pain, the eggs are mostly in the tube still and I can only just see some are fuzzy and some have eyes. Last time I raised eggs intentionally (danios) they were scattered on the bottom and it was easy to remove bad ones. I don't want the fuzz to spread so I've been putting esha2000 in vs fungus but that was before I realised one had hatched already so hopefully I didn't poison that wiggler. Next time I think I'll let the male tend the eggs for longer as he will probably do a better job of keeping them clean (but maybe they were all getting fuzzy and that's why he was getting rid of them all?). I had the tube tilted at an angle in a hang on breeder box, and an airstone gently bubbling past the end to suck water through the tube but not sure how effective that was. I had heard that gudgeon fry are relatively big for egg laying fish and shouldn't need infusoria, the one I saw was definitely bigger than the newly hatched barb and danio fry that I've seen but I do have a paramecium culture if necessary, and microworms and vinegar eels. I think if I can get past the fungus stage I'll be able to raise them okay. One of the new otos had what looked like a fin nip on his tail but has developed into full blown finrot so I've moved him to yet another hospital tank. I haven't yet worked out how to stop zucchini/repashy foods from making a lovely mess in the otos tank. I have seen one oto eating the zucchini finally, I'd been pretty worried they weren't eating. The snail crew is keeping on top of the mess I think but the downside to that is too many snails (already). None of the other otos have fin damage so I don't know for sure that the first one ever was nipped, I had assumed the tetras picked on him but I would have expected it to happen more if that was the case. If nothing else at least he was easy to net and I think I moved him without hurting him more.
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Nov 30, 2016 02:38
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Quick question for you guys. I currently have 2 filters on my tank my canister filter that is thoroughly seeded by now and the original power filter that came with the tank that's been running since I set the tank up. If I want to take power filter out and put it in another tank that's completely fresh would that for the most part instantly cycle the tank? Imagine it would take a week or so maybe a couple days for the bacteria to grow on the surfaces of the tank and all that but exactly how effective would that be? I'm asking because I want to finally set up a hospital tank just a small 10 gallon or so. The filter is made for up to 30 gallons so it will have excellent flow and I want to keep the tank smaller for low maintenance. Also for a hospital / quarantine tank what would you recommend keeping in it? Doesn't even have to be anything fancy but I need the fish in it so that I don't have to keep adding ammonia to keep the cycle up and just to have something in there to look at.
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Nov 30, 2016 07:25
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That sounds like the right way to do a hospital tank, if the filter is already cycled it doesn't matter so much about the rest of the tank. If you don't want to keep the tank stocked you can always move the filter back into a populated tank in between hospital uses. In fact if your hospital tank gets full of fin rot or ich out whatever you might want to boil your media before putting it back into a known healthy tank to reseed. I don't know what the best practise is there, but I'm a bit concerned that a hospital tank could become a plague tank if it's just left permanently occupied and running. I've tried to switch between tubs and tanks each time I have an isolated illness trying not to cross contaminate. Is the filter a known pathogen reservoir in aquarium diseases, and is moving a filter around a known vector for spreading disease? I know people treat their nets in between uses to avoid contamination so if a net can spread disease I suspect a filter could too. Any reason you want to keep the tank running all the time?
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Nov 30, 2016 07:48
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Yeah a hospital / quarantine tank is a sometimes thing, bare bottom, bare necessities, water change regularly with a seeded filter or filter material from your main tank.
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Nov 30, 2016 08:45
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Synthbuttrange posted:Yeah a hospital / quarantine tank is a sometimes thing, bare bottom, bare necessities, water change regularly with a seeded filter or filter material from your main tank. Yeah, in your case I'd leave the hob filter on your main tank, and only swap over to a hospital tank as needed.
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Nov 30, 2016 15:02
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I'm doing a couple of 3 day weekends over the holidays and won't be able to feed my fish (12 corys, 20 tetra, 3 clown loaches in a 75g). Think they'll be alright for 3 days at a time or should I get some kind of auto feeder?
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Dec 1, 2016 01:30
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I would never let a loach get hungry. That's when they start taking matters into their own hands (or fins), or so I've read. An autofeeder might be a good alternative to coming back to corys with no eyes or less tetras.
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Dec 1, 2016 04:30
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I hope it's OK to ask algae questions... I'm mostly a saltwater person, so forgive me if this is hideously ignorant. I keep a small (10g) planted tank that more or less takes care of itself until recently. I had to travel for business for about 3 weeks and had a neighbor feeding my tank, and I think she ridiculously overfed it. When I got back the tank was almost solid algae, this crazy stringy stick poo poo that was super difficult to clean off. Most of my fish (a few endlers) were stuck in the algae matts and dead. I ended up pruning my plants way, way back in order to try and salvage the tank, but there are still stubborn traces of the algae sticking around and I think it's starting to come back. Plus my tank is now naked and depressing. I'm down to 2 endlers, and I'm tempted to simply give them away or put them in a quarantine tank and blast the tank with a huge amount of CO2 to try and bring the plants back, but I'm not sure that's the right approach. I'm not particularly good at this but I managed to reach a nice stable equilibrium before and I'm desperate to try and get back there after all this. Any suggestions?   
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Dec 1, 2016 04:31
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sharkbomb posted:I'm doing a couple of 3 day weekends over the holidays and won't be able to feed my fish (12 corys, 20 tetra, 3 clown loaches in a 75g). Think they'll be alright for 3 days at a time or should I get some kind of auto feeder? I used these when I had shorter vacations. There's also blocks sized for weeklong holidays. http://www.mypetwarehouse.com.au/tetra-weekend-gel-block-24gm-p-7925 Synthbuttrange fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Dec 1, 2016 |
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Dec 1, 2016 04:34
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DeadlyMuffin posted:I hope it's OK to ask algae questions... I'm sorry for your nightmare algae heartbreak disaster, that must have been loving awful to come home to. Were your lights on timers or did something go out of whack there? I've only ever seen that stringy bullshit murder algae in full sun or when I first put a brighter light on a small tank and accidentally left it turned on for too long each day. I got rid of the algae by blacking out the lighting and manually removing as much as I could, then getting a timer set up. That tank has never really been the same though. Maybe you should rip everything out, salvage what you can (maybe bleach dip any of your good plants) and redo the planting as if it's a new tank? Shouldn't take too long for a 10g and it will feel better and look better than having sad mangled plants that remind you of the mess you had. I thought I had a disaster myself today, for some reason the air pressure dropped to the airlift of the breeder box where my gudgeon eggs are hatching which meant almost no water was circulating through it. I could see fry had hatched but none of them were moving at all (unlike yesterday) so I thought they were all dead. Still more eggs in the breeding tube cave though so I turned up the flow and crossed my fingers. Checked back tonight and there was movement once more from at least some of the visible fry so maybe I got water circulating again in time? They're not free swimming yet but there are definitely some big twitches and spasms going on so I hope that's normal. These gudgeon fry are nothing like the danio and barbs I've raised previously, they're much bigger fresh out of the egg but they just loll around on the bottom on their sides, occasionally twitching and shooting about an inch up before sinking down. I've seen danio fry and some tetra fry in the egg sac stage that orient themselves vertically against the tank wall and don't just lay about all floppy. Probably different survival mechanisms in action, I can imagine that playing dead helps the fry to avoid predation from the adult fish, which seem to prefer moving food. Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Dec 1, 2016 |
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Dec 1, 2016 18:48
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Stoca Zola posted:I'm sorry for your nightmare algae heartbreak disaster, that must have been loving awful to come home to. Were your lights on timers or did something go out of whack there? I've only ever seen that stringy bullshit murder algae in full sun or when I first put a brighter light on a small tank and accidentally left it turned on for too long each day. I got rid of the algae by blacking out the lighting and manually removing as much as I could, then getting a timer set up. That tank has never really been the same though. Maybe you should rip everything out, salvage what you can (maybe bleach dip any of your good plants) and redo the planting as if it's a new tank? Shouldn't take too long for a 10g and it will feel better and look better than having sad mangled plants that remind you of the mess you had. Thanks. It was rough. The lights were on timers, but I'll try dialing back the interval until things recover. Coming from saltwater I automatically think more light = good, but that's not the case in freshwater at all. I may take your suggestion and use this as a chance to start more or less fresh, if I do I'll take pics and post them.
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Dec 4, 2016 00:42
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