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evobatman posted:How do you "end up" with a car like that?? What did she pay for it? She ended up with it after her idiot ex boyfriend traded her Civic (a great car) for a Cherokee (near death) for a PT Cruiser (terrible but in good shape) and then for this, which was gotten for $1500. It's been in a front end collision, but prior to that it looks like it had been maintained almost perfectly. Interior is perfect, all the little electronic bits work, no leaking from the valve covers, etc. Only problems I've found on it are some worn front shocks and a crack in the fan shroud where the coolant bottle attaches, causing the bottle to rattle around. And some of the shielding under the car has been torn. And the grill is missing. And it maybe needs an alignment. And it has warped front rotors. Thanks for the info, though. I'm sure I'll be asking questions in here about it from time to time. I'll post pictures when it comes time to service it in some weeks or months. multiprotocol posted:This is quite possibly the most succinct description of the E38 that I have ever read. Seriously, that engine should end up being a LeMons transplant. It would be amazing in the Camaro.
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Sep 6, 2010 18:31
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Thankfully it just kinda dropped after it snapped, resting on the exhaust. Torqued the bolts down to 45ft/lbs, it seems to be holding on okay. The diff sounds like poo poo, but it's been making funny noises since before the drop. I think I have the loose bolt issue that plagues these drat things. I'm probably just going to drop the diff when I get a few days off, drill out the old flange bolts, them crack open the rear cover and see how many bolts are rattling around in the bottom. I'd "test" my limited slip, but with only four bolts on the drivers side flange, something tells me that's a bad idea. I was the funniest drat thing looking under the car and seeing the halfshaft. My buddy just looked and said, "I think we found the power delivery problem."
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Sep 6, 2010 19:20
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My baby has cancer. She is a 2002 530, and the cancer is in a strange spot--under the lip of the hood near the windshield. Its a bitch to get a picture due to angles, but I spotted it sitting in the driver's seat if that gives you an idea. Anyhow, its not too bad yet--just bubbling paint. But I suspect I should do something. The question is what? Please advise.
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Sep 6, 2010 20:56
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wwb posted:My baby has cancer. She is a 2002 530, and the cancer is in a strange spot--under the lip of the hood near the windshield. Its a bitch to get a picture due to angles, but I spotted it sitting in the driver's seat if that gives you an idea. Well the BMW Anti-Rust Warranty is there but I think it was only 6 yrs in 02' then they bumped it to 12 yrs after 06'. Check your owners manual.
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Sep 6, 2010 21:21
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wwb posted:Anyhow, its not too bad yet--just bubbling paint. But I suspect I should do something. The question is what? Please advise. Depends if you're willing to do the work yourself or not. Either way its better to address it now when it might just be a matter of sanding, filling and painting rather than hole patching. If you're going to do the work yourself you're looking at a process like this: 1. Sand or wire wheel away rust until you're at bare metal 2. Lightly hand sand 4 inches or so around area 3. Fill damaged area where rust was and sand smooth 4. Primer 5. Spray new base coat and blend into the 4 inch area around the spot 6. Clear coat 7. Wet sand until smooth (400, 800, 1000, then 2000 grit) 8. Rubbing compound and polish until glossy 9. You're done and now you hate body work! 8ender fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Sep 6, 2010 |
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Sep 6, 2010 21:46
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Thanks for the responses, pretty much what I thought. Not really sure one could do anything without taking off the hood--the rust is really jammed up towards the top. Good news is its underneath the hood in a spot you can only barely see from the driver's seat, not on top of anything. Anyhow, definitely don't have the facilities to do anything myself at the moment, so any rough idea how much it would take for a bodyshop to fix? I was considering getting the hood resprayed anyhow . . . .
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Sep 8, 2010 00:01
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Glamour shot of the 323i: Click here for the full 1200x800 image. New indicators, grilles and door moldings are on order from eBay. I got sick of chasing vibrations and noises from the suspension, so I thought I should do some cosmetics.
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Sep 8, 2010 13:52
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wwb posted:Anyhow, definitely don't have the facilities to do anything myself at the moment, so any rough idea how much it would take for a bodyshop to fix? I was considering getting the hood resprayed anyhow . . . . This is the sort of thing where both the price and quality of the repair will vary greatly depending on where you go. If you aren't planning on doing the work yourself its very much worth shopping around.
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Sep 8, 2010 13:53
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evobatman posted:Glamour shot of the 323i: Wow that's sharp. Is that Calypsorot? It looks a little purpleish
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Sep 8, 2010 14:05
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revmoo posted:Wow that's sharp. Is that Calypsorot? It looks a little purpleish Cordobarot, and in horrible condition, could really use a good polish. I ran it through the most expensive program at a car wash the day before the picture was taken, that helped a bit.
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Sep 8, 2010 14:43
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Paint looks better than my car. I kind of want to trade my 325 for a 323. From what I understand they are the same motor just a shorter stroke, so you get better reliability and gas mileage. I bet they like to rev better too.
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Sep 8, 2010 14:51
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323 is pretty much exactly the same as th m50 vanos motor
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Sep 8, 2010 17:22
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revmoo posted:Paint looks better than my car. At least in the states, the only difference is OBD2 and a different intake manifold. Same displacement, same exact bottom end, same everything.
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Sep 8, 2010 17:46
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I thought the 323 was a 2.3 liter motor?
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Sep 8, 2010 19:42
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revmoo posted:I thought the 323 was a 2.3 liter motor? That would make too much sense. E36/E46 323s (and E39 523s) all run the 2.5L M52B25, they're badged 323 to seem like there's a bigger gap to the correctly labeled 328. Yay marketing.
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Sep 8, 2010 19:53
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Am I stupid for wanting this as a daily driver? I live in New Hampshire, and while diagnosing problems isn't my specialty, I can wrench no problem. In a perfect world this would pass inspection with no or little work/$$ required, I could drive it while I put a few new parts on my 93 Accord before selling it. I thought about keeping the Accord for the winter, and using the proceeds of selling it to get winter tires for the following winter. http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/1940852911.html If I did go and look at it, anything special I should be looking for?
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Sep 8, 2010 21:40
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Carta posted:Am I stupid for wanting this as a daily driver? Nope, I'd definitely go look at it if it were me. Just keep a level head and take a friend to be safe and protect you from anxiety. Looks like a sober e30 to me!
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Sep 9, 2010 01:37
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Carta posted:Am I stupid for wanting this as a daily driver? I live in New Hampshire, and while diagnosing problems isn't my specialty, I can wrench no problem. In a perfect world this would pass inspection with no or little work/$$ required, I could drive it while I put a few new parts on my 93 Accord before selling it. I thought about keeping the Accord for the winter, and using the proceeds of selling it to get winter tires for the following winter. The guy says the speedo was replaced to fix the SI Board... which is completely inaccurate, you can replace the SI board independently. Make sure to ask when the timing belt was last done.
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Sep 9, 2010 19:37
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Beach Bum posted:The guy says the speedo was replaced to fix the SI Board... which is completely inaccurate, you can replace the SI board independently. Make sure to ask when the timing belt was last done. Maybe he bought a rebuilt gauge cluster? The various needles flake out and the odometer gears always do. Usually more than just the SI board (particularly the batteries) go bad. Hell, if it was a good enough deal I'd do the same for my e30s just so I could stop tapping the cluster to get the needles to stop sticking/floating.
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Sep 9, 2010 19:49
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Carta posted:http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/1940852911.html I hate every single person in this thread that posts E30s... I want one so bad.
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Sep 9, 2010 20:53
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What could be causing my E30 starter to not do anything when I turn the key in the ignition? All the lights come on, but there's no sound, no clicking, no movement - nada. Bump starting the car down a hill and it's perfectly fine afterwards. This has happened twice. In the last 5k miles the car has had new plugs, new leads and a new battery. The starter works fine every time until it doesn't at all, and then works fine afterwards.
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Sep 9, 2010 21:05
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I was asking a few pages ago about doing ED on an M3 sedan. I went up to the dealer this evening to see about test driving an M3, and they told me they don't do test drives on new M3s because they need 1200 miles to break in. I'm aware of the break-in period, during which you're not supposed to go over around 6000rpm. However, I'm trying to decide if I was getting jerked around. I mean, do people go in and buy a $70k car without being able to test drive one? I'm especially interested in feeling how the power band would work for me as a daily driver, and there's no way for me to gauge that from reading posts on the internet. Was the dealer feeding me a line? Everyone else on the internet seems to be out test driving them. Edit: Do you have to be a 50 year old man pulling up in a Porsche for them to think you're serious enough to test drive? LifeSizePotato fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Sep 10, 2010 |
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Sep 10, 2010 00:49
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The Will posted:What could be causing my E30 starter to not do anything when I turn the key in the ignition? All the lights come on, but there's no sound, no clicking, no movement - nada. Bump starting the car down a hill and it's perfectly fine afterwards. This has happened twice. Is there any oil leaking onto the starter? May be messing with the contacts and just needs disasembly and cleaning. Or maybe worn brushes?
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Sep 10, 2010 01:52
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LifeSizePotato posted:
When I was shopping around for my current E46, I went to the local BMW dealership driving my slightly worn but perfectly decent 97 Nissan Pathfinder and a salesman never even approached me. I gave up and left a little later, somewhat insulted but mostly stunned. Anecdotal, but I haven't been back to that dealership since. Also, pretty much every customer there was in his 50s.
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Sep 10, 2010 02:21
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So I've been looking into getting a new car, and I'm very strongly leaning towards getting a 135. The one thing that's kind of holding me back is how everybody I talk to always says how BMWs fall apart or something along those lines. I decided to turn to my fellow goons to try and discover a real answer. If you keep up on maintenance with the car, are you still actually likely to have problems crop up?
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Sep 10, 2010 02:39
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The Will posted:What could be causing my E30 starter to not do anything when I turn the key in the ignition? All the lights come on, but there's no sound, no clicking, no movement - nada. Bump starting the car down a hill and it's perfectly fine afterwards. This has happened twice. Have you checked the starter relay? LifeSizePotato posted:I was asking a few pages ago about doing ED on an M3 sedan. Seriously, with all the issues that the E46 had with regards to spun main bearings and the like, it doesn't shock me. Were I a dealer, unless you were a previous customer or someone I had a business relationship with, I'd be nervous about letting you go flog to and fro with a 414hp V8. multiprotocol fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Sep 10, 2010 |
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Sep 10, 2010 03:55
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an oddly awful oud posted:When I was shopping around for my current E46, I went to the local BMW dealership driving my slightly worn but perfectly decent 97 Nissan Pathfinder and a salesman never even approached me. I gave up and left a little later, somewhat insulted but mostly stunned. This happened with me at the Infinti Dealership and Nissan Dealership, I guess if you're not in a suit they won't come approach you. However, some dealerships are great, at Subaru/Acura they drat near opened my door for me, ran my credit (a pre-req for testing a WRX here) and told the sales person that "he could drive whatever he wants on this lot". I hate car dealers.
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Sep 10, 2010 13:01
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Beach Bum posted:The guy says the speedo was replaced to fix the SI Board... which is completely inaccurate, you can replace the SI board independently. Make sure to ask when the timing belt was last done. You may not be able to replace the batteries after they've leaked out and destroyed the circuit board. Yes you CAN replace the board and swap in the old mechanical odometer with the correct mileage. You can also buy a complete cluster from a wreck, just plug it in, and not care about the mileage on a 20 year old car.
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Sep 10, 2010 13:24
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LifeSizePotato posted:Edit: Do you have to be a 50 year old man pulling up in a Porsche for them to think you're serious enough to test drive? He was probably looking at his past experiences with "punks out for a joyride" and dismissing you based on those. I've had no problems test driving various new BMWs in my area and I don't look "important" or "wealthy". If you're really serious about test driving, go back to the dealer and ask for the sales manager. Explain your situation (want to see how the M3 is as a DD, want to compare it to the Audi S4 you've just driven, etc.) and then ask if it would be possible to do so. DON'T bring friends. The dealership should be happy to oblige. It's an M3, not a Ferrari Enzo. They aren't "rare" or "special".
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Sep 10, 2010 13:31
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an oddly awful oud posted:When I was shopping around for my current E46, I went to the local BMW dealership driving my slightly worn but perfectly decent 97 Nissan Pathfinder and a salesman never even approached me. I gave up and left a little later, somewhat insulted but mostly stunned. Of all the times I've gone into the local dealership I have not once been greeted by the salespeople while walking towards parts, and you have to walk past a few. I've even stopped to take a look at some and nothing.
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Sep 10, 2010 22:32
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Crustashio posted:Of all the times I've gone into the local dealership I have not once been greeted by the salespeople while walking towards parts, and you have to walk past a few. I've even stopped to take a look at some and nothing. In Vegas they approached me (24 yr old with a 99 s-10). Too bad the sales guy knew nothing about e46's and went on to tell me that E numbers mean nothing, rear tires on a e90 should look bald b/c of the sport stance, and that the 530i has more power than the 330i.... Also the lot does not stock manual transmission cars. They send them straight to auction. I would only buy from a dealer if i was ordering a new BMW to spec and taking European delivery. gently caress them all.
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Sep 11, 2010 21:11
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gigButt posted:In Vegas they approached me (24 yr old with a 99 s-10). Too bad the sales guy knew nothing about e46's and went on to tell me that E numbers mean nothing, rear tires on a e90 should look bald b/c of the sport stance, and that the 530i has more power than the 330i.... Also the lot does not stock manual transmission cars. They send them straight to auction. Yeah shopping around at a few dealerships in NY/NJ/CT I quickly learned that BMW salesmen aren't BMW enthusiasts, they're just salesmen. You would think they would even be at least be moderately interested in what they're selling, but no. Hell vacuum salesmen have to know their product, but I guess a vacuum doesn't exactly sell itself the same way a shiny BMW does.
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Sep 11, 2010 22:53
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Gilyon posted:So I've been looking into getting a new car, and I'm very strongly leaning towards getting a 135. The one thing that's kind of holding me back is how everybody I talk to always says how BMWs fall apart or something along those lines. I have a '10 135i that I have owned since Nov '09. The main issue is the high pressure fuel pump enjoys making GBS threads itself on some cars. I haven't had an issue with mine, but some cars go through them a lot. BMW warrantied the part for 10 years/120k miles and continues to come out with revised models as well (I think they are on revision 3 or 4 right now). There were a few recalls for smaller things, like taillight seals and seatbelt tensioners so if you do buy a used one make sure those things were done. If you are buying a new one, definitely get the DCT. I have a 6MT but after getting a DCT loaner for the seatbelt recall, I really wish I waited until '11 to buy mine for that transmission. '11 also is a different engine than the '08-'10, it has a single larger turbo instead of two smaller ones. It also has VANOS.
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Sep 12, 2010 01:59
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My alternator decided to poo poo the bed this morning as I was on my way to the track. Cost me $500 and my morning sessions to replace it. Why the gently caress couldn't you have broken during the week, when repairing it would have been easier and not cost me any track time? 
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Sep 12, 2010 02:20
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doogle posted:I have a '10 135i that I have owned since Nov '09. The main issue is the high pressure fuel pump enjoys making GBS threads itself on some cars. I haven't had an issue with mine, but some cars go through them a lot. BMW warrantied the part for 10 years/120k miles and continues to come out with revised models as well (I think they are on revision 3 or 4 right now). However the single turbo wont be able to tune as well i think. the JB3 gets a lot of gains out of the twin turbo inline sixes so its pretty important. Although im pretty sure that voids your warranty anyways and then youre in bend over territory for repair costs. People claim the JB3 is "undetectable" but i think thats a bunch of horse poo poo...
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Sep 12, 2010 07:13
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multiprotocol posted:Have you checked the starter relay? Everything looks buttoned up nicely, but it would explain it perfectly. I've bought a second-hand starter from eBay and will fit it next week to see what gives. Many thanks for the advice!
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Sep 12, 2010 17:42
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Someone decided to take a left while I was going straight in the middle of an intersection. My E30 was destroyed. Anyone know of any decent E30's for sale in the Wisconsin, Minnesota, Illinois area? Looking for a 318is, 325i or 325is.
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Sep 13, 2010 13:59
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doogle posted:I have a '10 135i that I have owned since Nov '09. The main issue is the high pressure fuel pump enjoys making GBS threads itself on some cars. I haven't had an issue with mine, but some cars go through them a lot. BMW warrantied the part for 10 years/120k miles and continues to come out with revised models as well (I think they are on revision 3 or 4 right now). One of the reasons I want to get a new one is because of the fuel pump. Seeing as it's a new engine, it probably won't have that problem (I would think). Although I guess it could have something else fail, since it hasn't been out that long, but who knows.
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Sep 13, 2010 19:06
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I keep modifying my car like it's 1999, and for anyone looking for a cheap visual upgrade, I recommend M-style door mouldings from eBay. I went to an independent partsdealer and picked up M Clubsport badges, since I wanted something different from ///M3 (included with the moulding kit) or ///M, which you usually see. Old mouldings and clips are just pulled straight out of the door, use some dish soap on the plugs on the new ones to have them slide right in.  Also in this pic, the smoked indicators from eBay. One of them fit really bad, but since I now have an unoriginal fender, headlamp and indicator, I can't tell which part is the culprit. Now just awaiting black grilles, before it's time to start working seriously on the suspension. evobatman fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Sep 13, 2010 |
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Sep 13, 2010 19:55
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Omegaslast posted:However the single turbo wont be able to tune as well i think. the JB3 gets a lot of gains out of the twin turbo inline sixes so its pretty important. Although im pretty sure that voids your warranty anyways and then youre in bend over territory for repair costs. People claim the JB3 is "undetectable" but i think thats a bunch of horse poo poo... While it is true that the single turbo doesn't allow for as much whp as the n54, the tunes available add around the same whp as the n54 tunes until you start getting into full bolt ons and meth. As far as the JB3 being undetectable it isn't 100% certain that they won't figure it out, but if you remove it before services and make sure there are no codes related to a tune including hidden tuner codes with a BT cable they probably won't find anything. There is always a risk though, if you don't want to chance it go for the BMW performance upgrade kit or whatever, adds like 30hp/tq and another oil cooler for $2k. Gilyon posted:One of the reasons I want to get a new one is because of the fuel pump. Seeing as it's a new engine, it probably won't have that problem (I would think). Although I guess it could have something else fail, since it hasn't been out that long, but who knows. It uses the same fuel system and same HPFP, but it uses the newest revision (402) which doesn't fail nearly as often as the older ones. There are cases of it failing however, including in the n55. I would get an n55 anyway, just for the DCT. It really is the best transmission you can get for this car, they aren't even putting it in the 1M because it caused it to be faster than the current M3 with M-DCT. doogle fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Sep 13, 2010 |
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Sep 13, 2010 21:34
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