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Interstitial Abs posted:Um, I'm a home repair newb, can you tell me which it is? Or give me a clue how to find out? Is this a wall between rowhouses? That's probably solid brick... Try this. Just tap the wall along where you want to mount it and listen. Does is sound low and hollow, or high and solid? Does it feel solid? Try comparing with an regular, hollow interior wall. Or borrow a stud finder. You slide them across the wall while they shoot sound into the wall, measuring the time for the sound to reflect back and figuring distance from that. In a stud or furring strip wall, the shallow spots are whatever the wall covering is mounted to. If the wall is uniformly shallow, then that plaster was spread directly on masonry. One last thing: cheap stud finders don't work well with plaster on hollow walls. They think that they're all solid.
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Aug 29, 2012 22:10
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Yeah, it's a wall between rowhomes (didn't know if brownstone was regional). I would imagine it's brick or concrete. Not at home now but yeah, it's high pitched and solid seeming (like break your hand solid), I tapped along it before. So if it is regular masonry or brick would this be a huge pain in the rear end to drill 2 or 3 holes into? Guessing I'd need a hammer drill for brick? Basically wanted it on this wall because it's the wall against my stairwell(with the door to my apt being at the bottom, instead of top of the stairs). There is a giant stairwell area that the bike could hang in and not be in the way. But this is starting to sound like a lot of work, especially in a rental. Maybe I'll try to do one of those ceiling mounted bike pulleys for that space...
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Aug 29, 2012 22:25
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Interstitial Abs posted:Yeah, it's a wall between rowhomes (didn't know if brownstone was regional). I would imagine it's brick or concrete. Not at home now but yeah, it's high pitched and solid seeming (like break your hand solid), I tapped along it before. Yeah you would need to anchor it to the masonry behind the plaster. Drilling into brick isn't that hard, even with a regular drill and masonry bit (concrete on the other hand...). Just go at a low speed. You could probably just use concrete screws, but you will need to figure out how thick your plaster is to know how long of screws to get. I'm afraid the only way to do that is by drilling your first hole... You need at least an inch embedded into the brick.
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Aug 29, 2012 23:32
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OK, thanks for your help. It's just good to know how much work is expected for something that's basically just getting the bike 2 feet off the floor. Either route I go I will post pics (or cross post from bike mega thread) because I know other people are dealing with this in an apt.
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Aug 29, 2012 23:39
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Interstitial Abs posted:OK, thanks for your help. It's just good to know how much work is expected for something that's basically just getting the bike 2 feet off the floor. Either route I go I will post pics (or cross post from bike mega thread) because I know other people are dealing with this in an apt. I have one last tip for fastening a block of wood to a masonry wall. Drill the holes in your wood block slightly larger than you need to and use washers to cover the bigger holes. Drilling holes into masonry almost never go in perfectly straight, no matter how much you prepare. The big holes and washers help compensate for this.
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Aug 30, 2012 00:18
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Plumbing question: I have installed a new dishwasher (where one did not exist). I purchased a water supply kit which came with the standard brass 5/8" elbow I need for the hot water supply. This elbow is leaking very very slowly. Like maybe 10 drops per wash cycle and it's driving me crazy. I used teflon tape on it and I will add pipe dope (going to pick it up tomorrow) but my question is; can I somehow adjust how many turns it takes to fully tighten the elbow? I believe the problem is that I can't quite twist it fully tight because the elbow ends up pointing straight down instead of to the right. Heck, even if I could get another half turn the elbow will end up pointing the wrong way. I need it to end up fully tight going right. Is there any trick on doing that? I've tried adjusting where I begin treading the elbow but it didn't seem to have worked (but I only tried twice before giving up). Or will pipe dope fix all? I see many plumbers use both teflon and dope so I plan on doing the same. Will this affect how many turns I get out of the thread?
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Aug 31, 2012 02:20
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Old rear end house question! My house was built in 1880. The cellar, which you access from outside, has dirt floors. There's this front room that has a brick partition and the whole area would work pretty well for a work bench for me, but I kind of have to hunch over. So I was thinking I could dig out the dirt floor 6-10 inches around where I'll be standing/working, lay some tiles down, and make it semi-nice instead of a scary creepy dirt floor torture room full of junk that I'm "storing". I have no idea about anything relating to construction, could digging out the floor gently caress up my foundation or whatever is keeping my house standing up? I'd be digging a pit essentially, about 12 inches out from any of the walls. Also that ground is hard as gently caress and is going to be hard to dig... any suggestions on that? I can get pictures later but I'm at work right now.
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Aug 31, 2012 17:06
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Basement digs are not uncommon. The problem is at the foundation; you don't want to undermine the support for the foundation. I'm not an engineer but there are calculations about angle of support for the footing. If you're digging well away from the foundation you'll be fine To dig near the foundation new concrete is poured to underpin the existing foundation. This should be done by a pro
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Aug 31, 2012 18:53
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Well considering I'll need counter tops/work benches I think that I might just dig out about 3 feet from the wall, and have my work benches be 3ft deep. My furnace is down there too, and they dug that out about 8 inches or so and it's actually fairly close to a wall. Is 3 feet considered well away from the wall?
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Aug 31, 2012 20:33
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Badmana posted:Plumbing question: Forget the dope, tape is fine. Just turn that elbow one more complete turn.
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Sep 1, 2012 01:13
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kid sinister posted:Forget the dope, tape is fine. Just turn that elbow one more complete turn. From what he's been saying, the threads are cut such that he can't without over torquing it and stripping the threads.
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Sep 1, 2012 01:21
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RizieN posted:Well considering I'll need counter tops/work benches I think that I might just dig out about 3 feet from the wall, and have my work benches be 3ft deep. My furnace is down there too, and they dug that out about 8 inches or so and it's actually fairly close to a wall. I would really, really, recommend you have a structural engineer look at it. It can depend on the local geology and hydrology, what kind of soil is around your land, how close trees (roots) are to the home, what kind of drainage... You might be fine. Then again, the next heavy rain you get, your foundation wall might fail. I've seen it happen, it ain't pretty, and your homeowner's insurance won't pay the 25K it can cost to rebuild it while keeping your house from collapsing. If your house doesn't collapse right then there.
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Sep 1, 2012 02:24
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thelightguy posted:From what he's been saying, the threads are cut such that he can't without over torquing it and stripping the threads. That's correct. It's pretty tight when I position the elbow to the right but I can probably get a quarter turn more out of it. But if I do that the elbow faces straight down and my braided steel water hose can't make that turn. Could using something like a copper washer work?
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Sep 1, 2012 14:07
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Badmana posted:That's correct. It's pretty tight when I position the elbow to the right but I can probably get a quarter turn more out of it. But if I do that the elbow faces straight down and my braided steel water hose can't make that turn. Nope, not a washer. How many turns of tape are you using?
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Sep 1, 2012 15:11
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You could pickup a longer hose and put a little loop in it Edit: Didn't realize it was 8 feet already. I saw stainless steel hose and thought of the 18" ones for sinks or whatever. yippee cahier fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Sep 1, 2012 |
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Sep 1, 2012 16:03
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kid sinister posted:Nope, not a washer. How many turns of tape are you using? I was told any more than 2 was too much. sund posted:You could pickup a longer hose and put a little loop in it The hose is already 8 feet long and I haven't seen one longer at Lowes. I supposed I could couple 2 of them up and route it going left instead of right (it would then have to go around the whole washer instead of directly to my sink). Is that a viable solution?
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Sep 1, 2012 22:54
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Badmana posted:I was told any more than 2 was too much. You can make more than 2 turns the worse than can happend is the fitting will break.
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Sep 2, 2012 12:09
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We shut down an old office and I've inherited a portable air conditioner from there. I'd like to use it in my garage but I don't want to make it anywhere close to a permanent install. It has a 5" exhaust tube, could I somehow adapt that to a bunch (how many?) of 1" pvc tubes on the floor that I could shut the garage door on? 2 other just curious plumbing questions: Our new office had a flood because a supply line to drinking water chiller (little box with r134 compressor under the sink about the size of a car batt.) blew out at night and no one knew. The supply line was that 1/4" opaqueish clear polyethylene tubing with the compression nut fittings. Is that even legal building code wise and such for a constantly pressurized install? Also, if you go into the bathroom at a gas station or restaurant, the water lines and drain pipe on the sink usually are covered by some kind of plastic cover or sometimes some kind of fabric cover, what is that about?
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Sep 2, 2012 16:21
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I have a beautiful vanity that was built around 1905 that has been abused a bit (a lot) over the years, and I would like to refinish it any make it all awesome. What should I keep in mind/where can I go to read more about doing this? Is there anything different about refinishing something that is this old?
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Sep 2, 2012 18:05
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Wagonburner posted:2 other just curious plumbing questions: Yes (although check your local codes); as a property adjuster, I hate them because before too long they get brittle and fail, or are overtightened during install and weakened at the barb (inside the end at the nut)...and fail. I always tell people to use 1/4" ductile copper. Wagonburner posted:Also, if you go into the bathroom at a gas station or restaurant, the water lines and drain pipe on the sink usually are covered by some kind of plastic cover or sometimes some kind of fabric cover, what is that about? Code requirement for handicapped bathrooms...protects the knees & shins for the wheelchair set. EAT THE EGGS RICOLA posted:I have a beautiful vanity that was built around 1905 that has been abused a bit (a lot) over the years, and I would like to refinish it any make it all awesome. What should I keep in mind/where can I go to read more about doing this? Please post a picture! Short answer: sanding & refinishing wood remains a pain in the rear end, no matter how old the wood is. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Sep 3, 2012 |
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Sep 2, 2012 21:19
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I have a new(ish) couch that I bought from a friend. Its firm and sturdy and wonderful, but the other day a guest sat down and one of the springs seems to have torn from the support frame. I can't find a professional in the area to repair it (and doubt I could afford one in the first place), but its ruining the comfort of the couch and I need to repair it before it gets worse. I tried to fix it today by cramming the spring back in position and trying to screw in a piece of wood (with glue for additional support/strength) in place underneath to keep it in place and restore the support of the couch, but I just am not strong enough to hold everything in place and my drill just crapped out on me. What would be the best way to go about fixing this?  (Thumbnailed for size)
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Sep 3, 2012 00:38
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If you're looking at anything like collectible antique value, refinishing does diminish that, just so you know. But I'm not sure that's your concern and I don't know if it's really old enough to be a consideration. I watch a lot of antiques roadshow. E: sorry, was referring to the vanity BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Sep 3, 2012 |
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Sep 3, 2012 02:55
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PainterofCrap posted:I would really, really, recommend you have a structural engineer look at it. It can depend on the local geology and hydrology, what kind of soil is around your land, how close trees (roots) are to the home, what kind of drainage... Yea that's probably the smart idea. Guess I'll do that just to make sure.
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Sep 3, 2012 14:07
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Niagalack posted:You can make more than 2 turns the worse than can happend is the fitting will break. I ended up using dope and 2 turns of Teflon. It looks like it's not leaking although it's only been a day since I tried the dope. I hope it holds.
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Sep 3, 2012 17:05
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I am probably moving into a one bedroom apartment and will be using the living room tv for my gaming monitor possibly. It would allow me to drop two lcd's and a desk to have a less goony feel all around. Is there an easy way to make my coffee table into one of those that lifts up for fattys eating on the couch for gaming? My coffee table is a base I built with a drawer and a giant telecaster guitar on top. It is connected only by resting on it and screen door swing latches so it can be easily separated for making something. I'll get pictures if it helps. Thanks
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Sep 4, 2012 00:59
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Wagonburner posted:We shut down an old office and I've inherited a portable air conditioner from there. I'd like to use it in my garage but I don't want to make it anywhere close to a permanent install. It has a 5" exhaust tube, could I somehow adapt that to a bunch (how many?) of 1" pvc tubes on the floor that I could shut the garage door on?
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Sep 4, 2012 22:47
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Wouldn't you need 25? A 1" circle has an area of .79 sq.in., and a 5" circle is 19.6 sq.in.
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Sep 4, 2012 23:03
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I've recently run into a Bass Guitar. Problem is the body is broken.  I asked a guy at a music store and as far as we can tell, only the wood is broken and other than that it's in pretty good shape. Does anyone know any good guides or info about building a new body for a guitar? I'm pretty new to this and have barely any cash.
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Sep 5, 2012 03:53
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It looks like the neck and bridge are still seated, just JB-Weld that fucker back together. It's a solidbody electric, you could make one out of boards from shipping pallets epoxied together and it would work the same. If you really want to make a guitar body, just cut a funky shape out of some cheap hardwood with a bandsaw, round the edges with a router, sand the whole thing smooth, and route out a neck pocket and the holes for the electronics. The only measurements you need to worry about are matching the depth of the neck pocket and the distance between the bridge and the nut. You can match the pickup placement if you want, or you can put them somewhere different. It's up to you!
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Sep 5, 2012 04:18
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If the neck is bolt on you can get a body for like $50-60. http://www.guitarfetish.com/Bass-Bodies-and-Necks_c_293.html
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Sep 5, 2012 05:09
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Question on sealing a door and door frame. Potato bugs have been crawling through the door frame, and it's getting super annoying. How would I go about properly sealing the doorway without buying a brand new door?
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Sep 5, 2012 06:56
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Probably have better luck spraying bug spray every few months.
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Sep 5, 2012 07:45
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thelightguy posted:It looks like the neck and bridge are still seated, just JB-Weld that fucker back together. It's a solidbody electric, you could make one out of boards from shipping pallets epoxied together and it would work the same.
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Sep 5, 2012 10:53
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  So there's this metal edging on my medicine cabinet that just came off. It seems to just be a thin piece of metal that covers the edge of the cabinet. Can I just glue it back on? And if so with what kind of glue? Insane Totoro fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Sep 5, 2012 |
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Sep 5, 2012 17:53
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Insane Totoro posted:
Looks like a job for superglue to me. Also check out thistothat.com for all your future glue selection needs.
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Sep 5, 2012 18:05
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Insane Totoro posted:Can I just glue it back on? And if so with what kind of glue? I'm in love with gorilla glue at the moment, needs pressure while it sets but works great. Also, is that a stick-on handle for the sliding glass door? Where can I get those?
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Sep 5, 2012 19:36
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Psalmanazar posted:I've recently run into a Bass Guitar. Problem is the body is broken. grover posted:Wood glue and clamping should work great. Might not quite have the same acoustics as before, for for a first bass to learn on, should be fine. So beaten, but YES to wood glue and NO to JB Weld (unless they are making wood glue now). Since that is a solid body bass it really won't affect the tone too much, since most of an electric guitars tone come from the pickups. I've done a few repairs including the typical snapped headstock and wood glue (if you do it right) ends up a stronger bond than the actual wood. Capillary action and such.  (my former boss once went on a 10 minute rant about wood glue  )Make sure to use a healthy amount and let it sit for 5-10 minutes before you try to put the halves together. This will make the glue tacky and it bonds better than just *squirt*... *clamp*. Might be tough to find clamps that won't slip on that shape and finish, so an alternative would be cut out piece of scrap to correspond with each side and flat on the other side. A clamp inside a clamp essentially. And don't just clamp it down within an inch of it's life... start a bit past finger tight, wait maybe 20 min, tighten some more, and repeat a few times. Otherwise you will just end up pushing the pieces against each other and they will start sliding. You want some glue to be pushed out eventually and just wipe with a wet paper towel. The bummer is that you would have to redo the entire finish to hide the repair reasonably well. Lacquer finishes can have chips or cracks filled in, but not poly. But! You could totally strip it and mess around with tung oil or even rattle can.... If nothing else you get a fun project and nothing lost! Please post pis(and higher res) if you can when you're done. I once got a free 5 string bass, but it had been sitting under water for lie... a month. That you can't fix so much  Sorry for the  but I am getting back into the repair game and kind of excited right now.. hehe.
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Sep 6, 2012 01:49
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Interstitial Abs posted:So beaten, but YES to wood glue and NO to JB Weld (unless they are making wood glue now). Since that is a solid body bass it really won't affect the tone too much, since most of an electric guitars tone come from the pickups. No, they aren't, I was just exaggerating to make a point. Any good adhesive for porous surfaces will work. It would be different if it were a hollow or semi-hollow electric, but for a solidbody, the wood's sole purpose is to hold the strings and electronics. corgski fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Sep 6, 2012 |
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Sep 6, 2012 02:08
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Interstitial Abs posted:Make sure to use a healthy amount and let it sit for 5-10 minutes before you try to put the halves together. This will make the glue tacky and it bonds better than just *squirt*... *clamp*. I hate to disagree with an otherwise excellent post but the best wood glues have a working time of 5-10 minutes max in ideal conditions. Waiting 10 minutes will possibly lessen the quality of the bond. Psalmanazar, just apply it and clamp together immediately or within a couple minutes. Excess glue will squeeze out and make clean up harder so a thin coat on each side for long grain to long grain bonding is enough. You should get just a small beading along the glue line.
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Sep 6, 2012 03:01
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I'm attempting to make a cooling system for my hands. I basically need to cool a 6" nipple which is held onto. The nipple has two 3/16" Barbs attached to the ends to allow for piping. I'm trying to think of a way to flow liquid (coolant) through this. I was thinking there has to be a PC liquid cooling solution I could adapt to make it work. I was using a small fountain pump and pumping ice water through, but I would prefer to have something where I could dial in a temperature and have it send the liquid through the nipple much more precisely. Any ideas?
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Sep 6, 2012 07:53
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