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EssOEss
Oct 23, 2006
128-bit approved

Geoj posted:

Have you tried checking the "perform clean installation" box under options (or wherever it is now) when installing the drivers?

It is under the Custom Install option. Yeah, do this - it will do the official Nvidia-approved driver cleaning and remove any traces of old drivers. You'll restart once to finalize the clean, then the install will continue from a no-drivers state once you log in again.

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surf rock
Aug 12, 2007

We need more women in STEM, and by that, I mean skateboarding, television, esports, and magic.
My personal computer as an adult has always been a laptop, and I've never done anything to maintain them beyond updating Windows. Since I'll be building a desktop later this month, there are a few things I'm really hoping to learn:

1.) Are there any really good tutorials for PC building on YouTube? Obviously there's a bunch of them; I'm wondering if there're any that folks here can specifically recommend. I'll be building it with a buddy's help (who has built a couple before), but I'd love to go into it as knowledgeable personally as possible.

2.) OK, so I'm trying to make a checklist for Day 1. Here's what I have so far (and here's the build):

- Put the danged thing together, minus the HDD, turn it on and hope something happens
- Plug in my Windows 10 executable USB and install it to the SSD
- Put in my license key to register it, then turn the computer off.
- Install the HDD and turn the computer back on. If it recognizes the HDD automatically, great. If not, go to Disk Management to format it as a GPT drive and create a new partition.
- Restart the computer and open the BIOS. Select the XMP settings profile for my RAM.
- Update my SSD's firmware to the latest version (since I have a Phison E12-based SSD).
- Connect to the internet
- Download HWiNFO64 and run it to see if the temperatures of anything are out-of-whack (admittedly I don't know what those would be); if they are, shut down and try to do a better job putting the CPU cooler back on
- Download the programs I use regularly
- Connect bluetooth devices
- Copy over whatever files I want from the laptop

Am I missing anything?

3.) And finally, I want to make a checklist for future maintenance. This is where I'm really clueless. Here are the things that I think need to be updated over time:

- Windows 10 (know how to do this one)
- BIOS
- Motherboard drivers
- Chipset drivers
- CPU drivers
- Video card drivers + firmware
- Printer drivers
- SSD firmware
- Monitor firmware

But I don't know if the above list is right or how to actually do those updates.

My 3900X just arrived and I'm giddy as hell about finally being able to build this thing. I'd appreciate any advice folks have about making it happen. Thank you!

Hipster_Doofus
Dec 20, 2003

Lovin' every minute of it.
If someone who's built two before is helping, then you'll be fine. Your checklist is a little... extreme. I'm a big fan of "measure twice, cut once" but that's a bit much. You don't have to chop it up into such small steps in a certain order. If it makes you feel better though... :shrug:
You did say you want to go into it highly knowledgeable ahead of time, so ok.

(I would wait to put the HDD in till after installing windows though. Windows installers can be notoriously stupid when there's more than one drive.)

Hipster_Doofus fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Aug 29, 2019

kindermord
Jun 5, 2003
ducks is chickens with swimmy toes

Actuarial Fables posted:

You're plugged into one of the HDMI 2.0 ports on the TV and not the single HDMI 1.4 port, right?
Yes, HDMI 1 with ARC. Same cable and port as before.

quote:

You may want to pop over to the GPU thread or the Display thread if no one in this thread has any suggestions. They may know what needs to be set to get your colors back.

I'll probably try the GPU thread. Thanks.

kindermord
Jun 5, 2003
ducks is chickens with swimmy toes

Geoj posted:

Have you tried checking the "perform clean installation" box under options (or wherever it is now) when installing the drivers?

Yeah. I did that after reinstalling windows and I realize I should have done that from the get go.

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker
Your checklist is unordered, but get XMP working before you install windows because it is basically overclocking and may involve a significant amount of trial and error to get running stable (use a memtest bootable drive to check the RAM for stability). It is just easier to deal with it if you don't have an OS install that could potentially become corrupted by the memory not being stable. Once you get your RAM running at its XMP settings and get zero errors in memtest odds are the rest of the install will go a lot smoother.

Actuarial Fables
Jul 29, 2014

Taco Defender

surf rock posted:

3.) And finally, I want to make a checklist for future maintenance. This is where I'm really clueless. Here are the things that I think need to be updated over time:

- Windows 10 (know how to do this one)
- BIOS
- Motherboard drivers
- Chipset drivers
- CPU drivers
- Video card drivers + firmware
- Printer drivers
- SSD firmware
- Monitor firmware


Windows 10 and the video card drivers are typically the only things you'll keep up to date. Windows 10 takes care of itself, and newer video card drivers are only really needed if there's a new game out that has specific optimizations with a new driver. The rest of the list only needs to updated if you're experiencing issues.

surf rock
Aug 12, 2007

We need more women in STEM, and by that, I mean skateboarding, television, esports, and magic.

Hipster_Doofus posted:

If someone who's built two before is helping, then you'll be fine. Your checklist is a little... extreme. I'm a big fan of "measure twice, cut once" but that's a bit much. You don't have to chop it up into such small steps in a certain order. If it makes you feel better though... :shrug:
You did say you want to go into it highly knowledgeable ahead of time, so ok.

(I would wait to put the HDD in till after installing windows though. Windows installers can be notoriously stupid when there's more than one drive.)

Thanks! I'm a big checklist person; it helps me think clearly.

Indiana_Krom posted:

Your checklist is unordered, but get XMP working before you install windows because it is basically overclocking and may involve a significant amount of trial and error to get running stable (use a memtest bootable drive to check the RAM for stability). It is just easier to deal with it if you don't have an OS install that could potentially become corrupted by the memory not being stable. Once you get your RAM running at its XMP settings and get zero errors in memtest odds are the rest of the install will go a lot smoother.

Got it, thank you for the advice. When you say memtest, do you mean this?

Actuarial Fables posted:

Windows 10 and the video card drivers are typically the only things you'll keep up to date. Windows 10 takes care of itself, and newer video card drivers are only really needed if there's a new game out that has specific optimizations with a new driver. The rest of the list only needs to updated if you're experiencing issues.

Oh, interesting! I'd heard a lot about how the BIOS for the X570 platform for Zen2 was rough and it seems like it's been patched a couple of times already. I think it's sound advice to leave things be if they're working. Thank you.

Hipster_Doofus
Dec 20, 2003

Lovin' every minute of it.

surf rock posted:

Got it, thank you for the advice. When you say memtest, do you mean this?

E: No, it's https://www.memtest.org
I mean the other one's legit too, but people generally mean memtest86+

Hipster_Doofus fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Aug 30, 2019

Atomizer
Jun 24, 2007



surf rock posted:

1.) Are there any really good tutorials for PC building on YouTube? Obviously there's a bunch of them; I'm wondering if there're any that folks here can specifically recommend. I'll be building it with a buddy's help (who has built a couple before), but I'd love to go into it as knowledgeable personally as possible.

Unless I'm forgetting something, the only semi-unique thing about a given build is the cooler installation for a given platform, so as long as you're clear on how to install that then the rest of the assembly is the same as pretty much every other build (barring, I guess, some specific SFF setups.)

surf rock posted:

2.) OK, so I'm trying to make a checklist for Day 1. Here's what I have so far (and here's the build):

- Put the danged thing together, minus the HDD, turn it on and hope something happens
- Plug in my Windows 10 executable USB and install it to the SSD
- Put in my license key to register it, then turn the computer off.
- Install the HDD and turn the computer back on. If it recognizes the HDD automatically, great. If not, go to Disk Management to format it as a GPT drive and create a new partition.
- Restart the computer and open the BIOS. Select the XMP settings profile for my RAM.
- Update my SSD's firmware to the latest version (since I have a Phison E12-based SSD).
- Connect to the internet
- Download HWiNFO64 and run it to see if the temperatures of anything are out-of-whack (admittedly I don't know what those would be); if they are, shut down and try to do a better job putting the CPU cooler back on
- Download the programs I use regularly
- Connect bluetooth devices
- Copy over whatever files I want from the laptop

Am I missing anything?

I'd just assemble everything; when installing Windows, if it detects both of your drives successfully it'll be pretty obvious which one's the 2 TB SSD and which is the 5 TB HDD. You can also just install the OS and at any point later input the key; no need to have that in admittedly what is a pretty excruciatingly detailed checklist. You really don't need to add things like "connect to the Internet" and "connect BT devices" but at least you're trying to cover everything. If anything, relating to your "check the temperatures" thing, doing a burn-in process may be wise but I'm not sure if anyone does that anymore. :shrug:

surf rock posted:

3.) And finally, I want to make a checklist for future maintenance. This is where I'm really clueless. Here are the things that I think need to be updated over time:

- Windows 10 (know how to do this one)
- BIOS
- Motherboard drivers
- Chipset drivers
- CPU drivers
- Video card drivers + firmware
- Printer drivers
- SSD firmware
- Monitor firmware

But I don't know if the above list is right or how to actually do those updates.

So Windows does a decent job finding updated hardware drivers. If you had an Intel system you could've supplemented that with the Intel Driver Update program; I'm not sure if there's an equivalent from AMD. Other than that, it's not necessarily a bad idea to check for BIOS and mobo updates periodically; maybe bookmark the page on the vendor's site and check every 6 months or so, but after a period of time, maybe a couple years even, they'll stop providing updates. Beyond that, you're probably not going to have to worry about printer drivers, CPU drivers, or monitor firmware.

TheParadigm
Dec 10, 2009

Hipster_Doofus posted:

If someone who's built two before is helping, then you'll be fine. Your checklist is a little... extreme. I'm a big fan of "measure twice, cut once" but that's a bit much. You don't have to chop it up into such small steps in a certain order. If it makes you feel better though... :shrug:
You did say you want to go into it highly knowledgeable ahead of time, so ok.

Lets see.
My new build advice is a bit out of date, its been a while since I've had to do it, so these things may or may not be current.

Ninite is useful for bulk installing usual apps.
Secunia PSI is great for managing 'I should update this driver or security patch'. (ongoing maintainance)
Adblockers and anti-malware stuff is probably an 'install first' sort of deal.
In the event that your browsers have extensions or scripts that aren't available any more, its should be possible in most cases to export them and get them to the new computer.

As far as first-assembly-jitters and worries:
Find a video on youtube that shows the steps to putting the CPU in and putting thermal paste on; thats the most crucial part to get right. (don't bend pins). Basically, look for a guide that focuses on the motherboard, not the person and is less than 3-4 minutes.
Be prepared to assemble on cardboard/outside of case/non-static surface just to test things.
Just make sure to seat things properly. Firm, but don't force it.
And lastly: Memtest86 on assembly saves hastle down the road.

There's always the possibility of DOA or defective parts: If your computer just turns off spontaneously when in heavy use with no warning; its the psu. If its random-bsods its probably drivers or ram. Random artifacts on the screen is the GPU. If it doesn't post, its the motherboard or cpu. Its a rare possibilty, don't be afraid to RMA and return, especially if fan noises seem off/wierd. Basically, just trust your senses in case something seems off.

You may want to do some stress testing just to make sure everything's totally stable. I'm not sure what's in vogue today, but looking for pc benchmark software should get you in the right area. Typical 'slap a pc together' steps are put it together, install crucial drivers and software, update as needed, quality of life programs, then a half day to a day of software testing to make sure it works.

For the most part, though, modern computers are easier than legos as long as you make the parts match. Forgot to hit post earlier; some other people may have treaded similiar ground. Hope this helps!

Sjonkel
Jan 31, 2012
Hey guys, I'm planning on buying a new pc, mainly for gaming. Is 16 GB of memory enough for gaming? Is there any (big) benefit for going up to 32 GB?

Dead Goon
Dec 13, 2002

No Obvious Flaws



Sjonkel posted:

Hey guys, I'm planning on buying a new pc, mainly for gaming. Is 16 GB of memory enough for gaming? Is there any (big) benefit for going up to 32 GB?

Yes, no.

Gromit
Aug 15, 2000

I am an oppressed White Male, Asian women wont serve me! Save me Campbell Newman!!!!!!!

Agreed. It doesn't cost much more to jump from 16 to 32 but you're better off spending that money on a better CPU or something.

Worf
Sep 12, 2017

If only Seth would love me like I love him!

Sjonkel posted:

Hey guys, I'm planning on buying a new pc, mainly for gaming. Is 16 GB of memory enough for gaming? Is there any (big) benefit for going up to 32 GB?

Depends entirely on the benefit you place on epeen for this use case

Lambert
Apr 15, 2018

by Fluffdaddy
Fallen Rib
16 GB isn't that much these days, but will be enough for gaming. If you're keeping background tasks open while gaming, heavy browsing on a second screen etc. you could benefit from 32 GB. Depends entirely on what you're doing.

Hipster_Doofus
Dec 20, 2003

Lovin' every minute of it.
If you play the latest and greatest games, and you're like me and you never close anything (50 tabs each on 2 different browsers, 6 file explorer windows, every pdf you've looked at in the past two weeks is still open, 3 instances of devmgr with property pages open, diskmgmt, event viewer, perfmon etc still running from days ago, 20+ items in the tray, two bittorrent clients with 100+ torrents each, 4 notepads, 2 wordpads and a word window, plus an xls or two open... you get the idea) then it can be helpful. Or you can get better about closing poo poo and put that money toward more cpu or gpu power or both.

I personally prefer gobs of ram because I have a raging case of adhd which is why I don't close poo poo, especially browser tabs. However on an e/n note I literally just got approved for a real adhd med, so maybe I'll stop being so lazy and sloppy. :toot:


tl;dr 16 gigs is plenty to run any game, but you might find it's snappier if you close stuff you aren't using.

surf rock
Aug 12, 2007

We need more women in STEM, and by that, I mean skateboarding, television, esports, and magic.
Thank you all so much for the advice!

Pb and Jellyfish
Oct 30, 2011
So I've been having recurring crashing issues with my rx480 (8gb), and after years of dealing with it I'm sick of that poo poo, so I want to buy a new card. I will probably build a new pc in the next two years, and I don't plan on cannibalizing this one; rather I want to keep it for my gf to use. What would be a roughly equivalent card that could be had for a decent price? I don't mind refurbs and such, since the computer is a couple of years old itself. Would something like this:
https://www.newegg.ca/msi-geforce-gtx-1060-3gt-oc/p/N82E16814137266?Description=gtx%201060&cm_re=gtx_1060-_-14-137-266-_-Product

be appropriate?

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
I just upgraded my CPU and tried my hand at undervolting my reference 8gb rx480.

I dropped my final voltages to 1000, 1025 and 1050 mV and it dropped its temp at full load a whole 20 degrees with the clock never movi g from 1283mhz.

Might want to try that when you dump it I to your girlfriends pc, could solve some stability issues?

Pb and Jellyfish
Oct 30, 2011
I have tried underclocking with many various settings, and with and without combining it with other tweaks, but all to no avail. It was working ok for a year or so, but recent updates seem to have removed the options needed to fix the problem, and old (or at least the old drivers which worked for me) won't work with the new settings app. Thank you though, I appreciate the help.
edit: I should mention that googling seems to suggest that my issue also occurs with other AMD cards, so I'd like to try Nvidia

Pb and Jellyfish fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Aug 31, 2019

Less Fat Luke
May 23, 2003

Exciting Lemon

Pb and Jellyfish posted:

So I've been having recurring crashing issues with my rx480 (8gb), and after years of dealing with it I'm sick of that poo poo, so I want to buy a new card. I will probably build a new pc in the next two years, and I don't plan on cannibalizing this one; rather I want to keep it for my gf to use. What would be a roughly equivalent card that could be had for a decent price? I don't mind refurbs and such, since the computer is a couple of years old itself. Would something like this:
https://www.newegg.ca/msi-geforce-gtx-1060-3gt-oc/p/N82E16814137266?Description=gtx%201060&cm_re=gtx_1060-_-14-137-266-_-Product

be appropriate?

Looking at benchmarks yeah the 1060 is almost the equivalent with a slight edge (https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1060-6GB-vs-AMD-RX-480/3639vs3634)

Atomizer
Jun 24, 2007



Sjonkel posted:

Hey guys, I'm planning on buying a new pc, mainly for gaming. Is 16 GB of memory enough for gaming? Is there any (big) benefit for going up to 32 GB?

Yeah, 16 GB is in all likelihood fine. You'd probably find that any modern gaming will use >8 GB so going with 16 is a safe bet, but note Windows will cache stuff it thinks you might need in surplus RAM to improve performance, so any extra isn't going to hurt unless it forces you to go with slower speeds or worse timing and/or cuts out of your budget for some other components that will affect performance. If you use caching software like I do (PrimoCache) then it can make use of as much extra RAM as you want it to.

Pb and Jellyfish posted:

So I've been having recurring crashing issues with my rx480 (8gb), and after years of dealing with it I'm sick of that poo poo, so I want to buy a new card. I will probably build a new pc in the next two years, and I don't plan on cannibalizing this one; rather I want to keep it for my gf to use. What would be a roughly equivalent card that could be had for a decent price? I don't mind refurbs and such, since the computer is a couple of years old itself. Would something like this:
https://www.newegg.ca/msi-geforce-gtx-1060-3gt-oc/p/N82E16814137266?Description=gtx%201060&cm_re=gtx_1060-_-14-137-266-_-Product

be appropriate?

Less Fat Luke posted:

Looking at benchmarks yeah the 1060 is almost the equivalent with a slight edge (https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1060-6GB-vs-AMD-RX-480/3639vs3634)

Yeah the 1060 and 480 are roughly comparable, with variations between games, but note that the nVidia GPUs are more power-efficient, and he's looking at the 3 GB version, which is a cut-down variant of the full 6 GB 1060.

Tehran 1979
Jan 28, 2019

by Lowtax
I'm looking to upgrade the girlfriend's RAM and HD in her laptop but know nothing about laptop parts. It's a Lenovo Ideapad 310: (https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/ideapad-300-series/Ideapad-310-15/p/88IP3000719)

I can't tell if the laptop supports an NVME, mSATA or only SATA III, or what type of RAM is compatible with it.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Tehran 1979 posted:

I'm looking to upgrade the girlfriend's RAM and HD in her laptop but know nothing about laptop parts. It's a Lenovo Ideapad 310: (https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/ideapad-300-series/Ideapad-310-15/p/88IP3000719)

I can't tell if the laptop supports an NVME, mSATA or only SATA III, or what type of RAM is compatible with it.

There's more than one kind of Ideapad 310 but here's the maintenance manual for multiple models. Hopefully it includes yours because that's what I'm basing this entire post on:
https://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles_pub/ideapad_310-14isk_310-15isk_310touch-15isk_310-15abr_hmm_201606.pdf

It seems like it's got 4GB of RAM soldered onto the board and one open SODIMM slot. You'd want to get the same kind of RAM so DDR4-2133 MHz in a SODIMM package. If you get another 4GB that would probably be enough for most laptoppy tasks. ifixit has a RAM replacement guide. You can (assuming it's the right model) follow this and put the RAM in the slot that they're replacing the RAM in:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Lenovo+IdeaPad+310+Touch-15ISK+RAM+Replacement/99861

The maintenance manual suggests there's only one 2.5" hard disk in the laptop and doesn't mention any slots for M.2 or mSATA, so you will likely be replacing the hard disk inside with an SSD. If it's the right model here's an ifixit guide on getting to the HD:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Lenovo+Ideapad+310-15IKB+Hard-Solid+State+Drive+Replacement/124995

So if that all looks right, I like to get an SSD and a sata to USB adapter to do the HD to SSD imaging on laptops. I've used these multiple times with no problem and generally use Macrium Reflect Free to do the imaging:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM/

gradenko_2000
Oct 5, 2010

HELL SERPENT
Lipstick Apathy
My sister bought a laptop recently. It's an Acer Aspire 3 A315-41G-R4BW.

It's supposed to have 4 GB of 2667 Mhz DDR4 RAM, with an expansion slot for one more SODIMM, but the "SPD" tab of CPU-Z is completely blank when looking at the slots.

The Memory tab of Task Manager similarly doesn't want to tell us what the memory is clocked at. Looking at the BIOS also does not help, as it just reports that there's 4 GB of RAM without telling us the speed.

Is there another way we can check/validate the speed of the memory, so that we can buy a matching stick?

gradenko_2000 fucked around with this message at 08:01 on Sep 1, 2019

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

gradenko_2000 posted:

My sister bought a laptop recently. It's an Acer Aspire 3 A315-41G-R4BW.

It's supposed to have 4 GB of 2667 Mhz DDR4 RAM, with an expansion slot for one more SODIMM, but the "SPD" tab of CPU-Z is completely blank when looking at the slots.

The Memory tab of Task Manager similarly doesn't want to tell us what the memory is clocked at. Looking at the BIOS also does not help, as it just reports that there's 4 GB of RAM without telling us the speed.

Is there another way we can check/validate the speed of the memory, so that we can buy a matching stick?

I'd try HWInfo64. If it doesn't know, then open up the laptop and look at the label on the memory in it.

Atomizer
Jun 24, 2007



gradenko_2000 posted:

My sister bought a laptop recently. It's an Acer Aspire 3 A315-41G-R4BW.

It's supposed to have 4 GB of 2667 Mhz DDR4 RAM, with an expansion slot for one more SODIMM, but the "SPD" tab of CPU-Z is completely blank when looking at the slots.

The Memory tab of Task Manager similarly doesn't want to tell us what the memory is clocked at. Looking at the BIOS also does not help, as it just reports that there's 4 GB of RAM without telling us the speed.

Is there another way we can check/validate the speed of the memory, so that we can buy a matching stick?

Oof, 15" and only WXGA resolution, with an HDD instead of SSD on top of that! :psyduck:

Anyways, here's some info on that model, and you can just open it up to see exactly what module it already has in there. I wouldn't worry too much about finding an exact match, although you could probably find one from someone else who is selling their module for the same system after they did a 2x8 GB upgrade for whatever reason.

Also, upgrade to an SSD while you're at it!

gradenko_2000
Oct 5, 2010

HELL SERPENT
Lipstick Apathy
This is what we got with HWinfo:



if I'm understanding this correctly, if it says a memory clock of 1199.1 Mhz, then we should be looking for a 2400 Mhz stick?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

gradenko_2000 posted:

This is what we got with HWinfo:



if I'm understanding this correctly, if it says a memory clock of 1199.1 Mhz, then we should be looking for a 2400 Mhz stick?

Yeah, it might not hurt to double check by opening it up (if it's not too much trouble) but it seems like the timings show it's probably a match for something like:
https://smile.amazon.com/Patriot-Signature-2400MHz-PC4-19200-PSD44G240082S/dp/B07BS7R9FG/

You could also get an 8GB SODIMM since they're not that expensive but you'd lose dual channel which may or may not matter to you depending on what you use the laptop for.

Saukkis
May 16, 2003

Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

gradenko_2000 posted:

This is what we got with HWinfo:

if I'm understanding this correctly, if it says a memory clock of 1199.1 Mhz, then we should be looking for a 2400 Mhz stick?

I would buy a stick that the RAM manufacturer promises to be compatible. For example these Kingston sticks, does the "System Part Numbers" match your laptop?

Hipster_Doofus
Dec 20, 2003

Lovin' every minute of it.
Umm, you're gonna be opening it anyway so


Also dear god yes slap an ssd in there. That would help so drat much you could even skip or put off the ram.

E: with today's price points don't get one any smaller than 240gb.

Hipster_Doofus fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Sep 1, 2019

Saukkis
May 16, 2003

Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

Hipster_Doofus posted:

Umm, you're gonna be opening it anyway so


Also dear god yes slap an ssd in there. That would help so drat much you could even skip or put off the ram.

E: with today's price points don't get one any smaller than 240gb.

The HWiNFO64 picture is showing a 256GB NVMe drive, which is probably for the OS. But replacing the 1TB spinner could be a useful upgrade.

Hipster_Doofus
Dec 20, 2003

Lovin' every minute of it.

Saukkis posted:

The HWiNFO64 picture is showing a 256GB NVMe drive, which is probably for the OS. But replacing the 1TB spinner could be a useful upgrade.

Didn't catch that. And someone else suggested upgrading the hdd so I just assumed there was no ssd. Carry on.

Atomizer
Jun 24, 2007



gradenko_2000 posted:

This is what we got with HWinfo:



if I'm understanding this correctly, if it says a memory clock of 1199.1 Mhz, then we should be looking for a 2400 Mhz stick?

Yes, that makes sense as it's DDR. You have all the information you need regarding speed and timings, like I said you don't need an exact match although, again, one might be available on eBay from someone else's pull of the same exact system. Of course if you really wanted to know exactly what's in there you could've just opened it up by now, it's exceedingly easy to do. You could've figured that out on your own just by flipping over the laptop, and I even linked that video where someone else already opened it up for upgrades.

Also, the RAM speed you've discovered makes sense as according to that video, it came with a 2400 module and supports 2666 max. You could throw in pretty much any module of at least 2400 MHz and it wouldn't hurt, so don't overthink this too much.

Rexxed posted:

You could also get an 8GB SODIMM since they're not that expensive but you'd lose dual channel which may or may not matter to you depending on what you use the laptop for.

I don't think dual-channel mode is disabled in such a situation, I believe it operates in a "mixed-mode" (or I forget what it's called) where the paired 4+4 GB is accessed in DC mode and the extra 4 GB on the more capacious module is in single-channel mode.

Saukkis posted:

I would buy a stick that the RAM manufacturer promises to be compatible. For example these Kingston sticks, does the "System Part Numbers" match your laptop?

It's not a bad idea to stick to the compatibility list, but in reality most modules that are nominally compatible should work just fine. I can't remember the last time I had an issue with RAM not working despite matching the specs of compatible modules.

Hipster_Doofus posted:

Umm, you're gonna be opening it anyway so


Also dear god yes slap an ssd in there. That would help so drat much you could even skip or put off the ram.

Yeah it's absurdly easy to upgrade Acers as they have service doors for the RAM and storage accessible under a single screw. Why he hasn't just looked for himself by now is beyond me.

I wouldn't avoid upgrading the RAM just because I was upgrading to an SSD*, however, because that's an APU that uses shared system RAM, and not only does it get a huge benefit from faster, dual-channel RAM, the OS has even less RAM to use for other tasks. It looks like 512 MB is being reserved for the GPU so the rest of the system is stuck with 3.5 GB, so yeah, add another 4 GB ASAP.

Saukkis posted:

The HWiNFO64 picture is showing a 256GB NVMe drive, which is probably for the OS. But replacing the 1TB spinner could be a useful upgrade.

Hipster_Doofus posted:

Didn't catch that. And someone else suggested upgrading the hdd so I just assumed there was no ssd. Carry on.

*I couldn't tell that system already had an SSD; the model number he provided I googled and it linked to a system with an HDD only, and that video also showed a similar model with an open m.2 slot (and no mounting screw) under the main bottom panel. Acer does release tons of variants of the same system with different storage, RAM, display, and other component variations, so apparently his sister has one of those or someone else already added an SSD. :shrug:

I wouldn't necessarily touch that HDD, then, unless she needs more storage. As long as there's an SSD for the OS, I'm fine with leaving any existing HDDs in a laptop for cheap, bulk storage.

Tapedump
Aug 31, 2007
College Slice

Actuarial Fables posted:

When you say "Extracting all the archives", does that include the CD w/ all the drivers for the motherboard?
https://www.supermicro.com/wftp/CDR_Images/CDR-A1-A2-UP/ (warning: large)
Funny thing.. I got Win10 installed on a SATA SSD, but when I run autorun.exe, setup_32.exe, or setup_64.exe, but it won't run. (Extracted CD ISO contents to folder on desktop.)

I get the UAC prompt, some process tries to start, and the only result is that another File Explorer window opens to C: root.

Now, for the life of me I can't get the SATA m2 nor NVMe m.2 to show up in BIOS. There appears no setting to disable those, only to set their speed from Auto to Gen2 and so on. Only the SATA controller has an option to disable.

Edit: Heh, tried the CD on a Windows 7 box.. same result.

Tapedump fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Sep 2, 2019

Actuarial Fables
Jul 29, 2014

Taco Defender

Tapedump posted:

Funny thing.. I got Win10 installed on a SATA SSD, but when I run autorun.exe, setup_32.exe, or setup_64.exe, but it won't run. (Extracted CD ISO contents to folder on desktop.)

I get the UAC prompt, some process tries to start, and the only result is that another File Explorer window opens to C: root.

Now, for the life of me I can't get the SATA m2 nor NVMe m.2 to show up in BIOS. There appears no setting to disable those, only to set their speed from Auto to Gen2 and so on. Only the SATA controller has an option to disable.

Edit: Heh, tried the CD on a Windows 7 box.. same result.

Don't extract the files, just mount the ISO. The executable is probably designed for a particular file structure and won't work properly out of its element. Hopefully after running the program and getting the drivers installed you'll at least be able to see the m.2 drive.

I love that the manual describes features that the board doesn't have, like m.2 PCIe3.0x4 and 6 SATA ports.

TheParadigm
Dec 10, 2009

Hipster_Doofus posted:

I personally prefer gobs of ram because I have a raging case of adhd which is why I don't close poo poo, especially browser tabs. However on an e/n note I literally just got approved for a real adhd med, so maybe I'll stop being so lazy and sloppy. :toot:


tl;dr 16 gigs is plenty to run any game, but you might find it's snappier if you close stuff you aren't using.

Came here to say this. 16gb is not enough for me any more.

Basically, If you use chrome AND want to leave it open while you do Other Things, get more than 16gb.

Relatedly, I have a sandy bridge system and an ancient graphics card. 4x4gb ram in dual channel pairs, I think I got one of the good/decent radeons ages ago, and it manages to hold its own. Radeon HD 5850 series. Its able to run basically any game on steam I throw at it at modest resolution and graphics settings, which is fairly surprising to me.

If I wanted to breathe some new life into this thing, what are some cost effective options?

So far the shortlist is 'maybe an nvidia 1060, and upgrade one of the ram pairs to 2x8gb?'

Any off the cuff/better suggestions?

Actuarial Fables
Jul 29, 2014

Taco Defender
Do you have a SSD?

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FCKGW
May 21, 2006

TheParadigm posted:

Came here to say this. 16gb is not enough for me any more.

Basically, If you use chrome AND want to leave it open while you do Other Things, get more than 16gb.

You could also just close tabs you’re not using anymore.

I will never understand you “I have 200 open tabs!” people.

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