|
washow posted:Awesome car really! I wasn't really thinking about e90 because of this notion of 2 door = faster, but drat! Now I'll get either one What the hell?
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 14:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 00:05 |
|
|
Cross post from the "What did you do to your ride today?" thread.     And a photo from work. From left, RB20 S14, SR20 S14, M20B25 E30 (me).  I hadn't given her a good exterior detail in a while, and I'm amazed at how much better she looks.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 15:24
|
|
|
^^^^ see, I want one of those. E30s look so good as coupes. Don't agree with the tint or the wheels but it's still a purty car.KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:What the hell? I was thinking of posting something like this but wasn't sure if he was serious or not. Other potential topics of discussion include his driving an automatic, not knowing if the car is downshifting or not, and thinking the car didn't have power steering.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 16:24
|
|
|
My E30 starter problem has resurfaced - every now and then when I turn the key to start the car, nothing happens - the starter doesn't turn over or anything. I've already swapped out the motor/solenoid itself with a tested-working version I'm going to wire in a push-to-make switch to flip the solenoid directly using battery voltage to absolutely rule out the starter itself. Assuming that it's fine the it's got to be the ignition barrel, right? Sounds expensive.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 16:41
|
|
|
I wasn't actually stating that it didn't have power steering and poo poo. I was making a comparison. And I just like the styling of the e92 better than e90. What the hell? Also I don't know how to drive a stick har har
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 21:11
|
|
|
You do know in fact that the E92 is not significantly faster than the E90? I have also never quite understood the appeal of the E92 when the 1-series exists... unless you really want AWD.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 21:30
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:You do know in fact that the E92 is not significantly faster than the E90? Bigger back seat/trunk?
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 21:31
|
|
|
rscott posted:Bigger back seat/trunk? I figure if you're buying the E92 over the E90 you're already punting a lot of functionality on the backseat thing. Trunk's a concern I guess but I haven't had much trouble with mine. It'll fit a pair of golf bags and some extra bullshit. edit: I guess if I was in the market for a coupe I just couldn't consider paying that much more money for extra weight and marginally better functionality of a thing I'd already compromised on and a thing that I don't use that much. Of course, I clearly chose along those lines.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 22:09
|
|
|
Beach Bum posted:Cross post from the "What did you do to your ride today?" thread. You need some euro bumper trim, stat. r3v has a groupbuy thread for the trim at tischer bmw.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2010 22:54
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:You do know in fact that the E92 is not significantly faster than the E90? Yes of course I loving know that. I just like the styling of e92 even compared to 1 series
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 00:35
|
|
|
washow posted:Yes of course I loving know that. You posted 2 doors = faster, it's a legitimate question.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 14:07
|
|
|
Well, the E36 is getting sold tomorrow, and the new owner didn't want the M3 wheels. Anyone with an E36 interested in a set of staggered DSII M3 wheels? Brand new Dunlop Direzza DZ101's all around, and some curb rash from the PO. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 14:22
|
|
|
Yeah, how much?
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 14:46
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Yeah, how much? Shoot me an offer. I'm just looking to make some money back on them, not a profit. Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Sep 24, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 16:13
|
|
|
After a few days with the JB+ on the car, I really should just order a PROcede and get it over with 
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 16:34
|
|
|
The new E34 failed the e-test and safety miserably  E-test I knew was a lost cause without a new O2 sensor. When the light is one the sensor is usually completely dead. New one in the mail. Safety came back with: - Broken rear spring - Too much play in front right lower control arm - Small coin sized hole in floor  - Front pads separating from backing plates - Lug studs too short for aftermarket rims - Rear brake hard lines from distribution block to flex lines corroded Many parts on the order as of this morning. I wanted a project to distract me while I quit smoking and I got one.  The funny thing is that the car drives awesome even with all these problems. When he mentioned a broken spring I honestly thought the mechanic was playing games. This does explain the 100km/h shimmy I had though. Mechanic had some kind words to say about the car. Told me its worth it to fix this one and hes letting me have an extra few weeks to get the repairs done without requiring reinspection. 8ender fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Sep 24, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 16:47
|
|
|
8ender posted:The new E34 failed the e-test and safety miserably None of this is particularly horrible to fix, it sounds like it will be a good project! A little advice: - you could replace the rear spring with OEM from the junkyard for like $5, or look at it as an upgrade opportunity - the front LCA play could be the LCA bushing or the ball joint, get the car up on jackstands and wiggle that thing around a bit to see if you can duplicate. Any shop with a press can put in new bushings and a balljoint for like $20. - rust: I have no constructive advice for you at this juncture - front pads can and probably should be upgraded to a compound that suits you better. You can opt for better stopping power at the expense of brake dust on your wheels or visa versa. - the wheels aren't aftermarket as far as I can tell, and unless those wheels have spacers because they're 3-series offset, you shouldn't need lengthened wheel bolts! - brake line corrosion is scary, are you planning to bend up some new lines yourself? I'm curious because I'd imagine the pre-fabbed piece is way hard to get fitted on the car. In other news, our 99 M3 sold a couple days ago. Took less for it than I'd have liked, but at least it's gone and it's a relief to have only two more cars to divest. Anyone in the AZ area looking for a very reasonable project E36 M3? 99k mi, salvage-titled, pristine interior. All parts present and ready for reassembly... 
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 18:49
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:
Where at in AZ? What does the car need done? Price ranges?
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 20:36
|
|
|
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/1970013673.html Asked the owner about rust/body damage: [Owner posted}Not really accident in the front years ago but nothing serious. No rust at all.[/quote] I've been lookning for a decent 2door E30 or 2002 to work on for a couple of months. This popped up on craigs with a bad clutch. The pictures suck but it looks fairly clean. It's 250mi away from me but I'd be willing to check it out if you all think it'd be worth my while.
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 21:21
|
|
|
Veins McGee posted:http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/1970013673.html If all it needs is clutch work and maybe minor body work, its a steal for a 325is. Assuming it actually is one.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2010 21:48
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:Car: 1997 328i, ~189k miles. Doesn't look bent to me. I'm guessing that's an E36? Mine looked similarly odd when I put my AST4100s on.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2010 00:24
|
|
|
gigButt posted:Where at in AZ? What does the car need done? Price ranges? Tucson, it needs a new right-front frame horn welded on and then reassembly from the radiator support forward. Again, all the parts are present, including the frame horn section and BMW hood, radiator support, cross brace, bumper and bumper shocks, mechanical fan, radiator and AC condensor, all hardware, etc. Comes with lots of extras: two sets of wheels (Toyo RA-1 R-compounds on 5-spokes and some decent BFG gForces on DS1's for street tires), lowering springs, Sparco strut brace, a brand new set of HID projectors fitted to E36 housings (DDM), and some other misc bits. $4,000. This is how much I have in parts, but oh well. Alternately, if you can assemble it, I can compensate you with 3 track weekends in the car with NASA AZ.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2010 02:56
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:None of this is particularly horrible to fix, it sounds like it will be a good project! A little advice: I really really want to upgrade but it isn't in the budget. You won't believe the will power it took not to buy everything I saw on Pelican parts and Rock Auto. I have an entire strut assembly on deck at the local junkers for $40. As it is what suspension is there feels pretty tight. Speaking of Rock Auto, does anyone have any experience with URO brand parts? Sterndotstern posted:- the front LCA play could be the LCA bushing or the ball joint, get the car up on jackstands and wiggle that thing around a bit to see if you can duplicate. Any shop with a press can put in new bushings and a balljoint for like $20. BMW apparently says nein to replacing the bushings on the aluminum arms but has no problem with new bushings on the steel ones. No idea why but the replacement on the way is a steel one. gently caress replacing the entire arm every time the bushing dies. Sterndotstern posted:- front pads can and probably should be upgraded to a compound that suits you better. You can opt for better stopping power at the expense of brake dust on your wheels or visa versa. Went for the massive brake dust route. I like my stopping power. Sterndotstern posted:- the wheels aren't aftermarket as far as I can tell, and unless those wheels have spacers because they're 3-series offset, you shouldn't need lengthened wheel bolts! I've had a chance to work this out and the BMW wheels are Style 66 E39 wheels. The winter tires are mounted on some sort of 16" aftermarket rim that wont clear the front brakes without the spacers, hence the need for extended lugs. Who knows how they mounted these before. Also since my hub is smaller than the 74mm one on the E39 and aftermarket wheels I've ordered a set of hubcentric rings to stop the shaky shaky. Sterndotstern posted:- brake line corrosion is scary, are you planning to bend up some new lines yourself? I'm curious because I'd imagine the pre-fabbed piece is way hard to get fitted on the car. Thanks to the amazing RealOEM I have the line length measurements from BMW. I can get pre-cut metric brake pipes with fittings from the local NAPA and I'm planning to bend them fit. I got under there tonight and there is only a few bends per pipe. Shouldn't have a problem. Thankfully the line running the length of the car is fine. In fact I'm pretty drat impressed with how rust free it is under there for a 1993 year car. Most cars that age here in Ontario are suffering severe rocker and frame rust or are already in the junk yard.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2010 03:34
|
|
|
8ender posted:Thanks to the amazing RealOEM http://bmwfans.info/ is where the cool kids look for BMW parts these days . Much easier to navigate.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2010 12:57
|
|
|
So I decided to fix this rust spot... Both fenders are off, bumper off, back seats are out, and the right rear strut is out. My new car is looking awesome  
8ender fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Sep 27, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2010 03:07
|
|
|
^ Doesn't look too bad. Has anyone done shifter bushings? Mine need done and I'm not sure if I want to drop the driveshaft/exhaust or not. I know it can be done without but it's a lot harder because you can't see what you're doing and it's a tight fit.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2010 14:23
|
|
|
revmoo posted:^ Doesn't look too bad. You cant see the rocker panel hole in the picture but yeah, not bad at all. This car has held up amazingly well for a 17 year old car in Ontario. Crazy how easy it is to take apart as well. I think I had the whole front end off in under 30 minutes. Hand built means easy to disassemble I guess. For anyone here that needs to do brake hard lines at any point: Check out your local NAPA for the parts. You can get pre-cut, pre-fitted brake lines of almost any length for dirt cheap. I just picked up the four lines I needed for the rear for $15. BMW wanted close to $120 for the same lines.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2010 16:30
|
|
|
revmoo posted:^ Doesn't look too bad. What kind of shifter do you have? Is it the plate style or the aluminum rod type? When I did the plate style on my 318, all you need is an allen socket and a few extensions, along with a tight ratchet. It takes awhile, but it can be done without dropping the driveshaft fairly easily. I prefer the plate style myself, the rod type aluminum console tends to have more lateral play because of the nature of the front side bushing. The plate style has two attachment points on the transmission and is therefore rock solid. Be sure to check out your transmission bushings while you're down there, it's probably a good idea to replace them. Removing the transmission brace that they're attached to makes getting to the shifter console bushings easier.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2010 20:40
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Has anyone done shifter bushings? Only on E36s and E46s. If you have ANYTHING else to do under there -- short shift install, guibo replacement, exhaust upgrade, etc -- I'd strongly recommend you do it all at once. The shifter bushing swap doesn't improve the shift feel enough to merit the work of dropping the exhaust and driveshaft by itself. I'd highly recommend you combine it with some other parts to install.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2010 22:35
|
|
|
revmoo posted:^ Doesn't look too bad. Does the exhaust block access on your car? I can't remember if it did on my e30 because of the transfer case and euro center muffler.. Dropping the exhaust is pretty easy if you have a 2nd person to help you put it back on. It's really trivial to drop the driveshaft, at least on an older 3 series. Unbolt the guibo, unbolt the support bearing if there is one, and loosen the huge nut to collapse the shaft. I actually pulled 1/2 of mine off since the rear diff studs were crazy rusted, just make sure to mark it really well since it is balanced as a unit. Sterndotstern posted:The shifter bushing swap doesn't improve the shift feel enough to merit the work of dropping the exhaust and driveshaft by itself. I'd highly recommend you combine it with some other parts to install. It depends on how toast some of the bushings are. When I pulled mine the bushing for the shifter ball was completely toast - enough teeth were broken for the ball to actually pop out of the socket when going into 2nd or 4th. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Sep 28, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2010 01:32
|
|
|
Crustashio posted:Does the exhaust block access on your car? I can't remember if it did on my e30 because of the transfer case and euro center muffler.. Dropping the exhaust is pretty easy if you have a 2nd person to help you put it back on. Pretty sure the exhaust does block the drive shaft. Luckily my PO put brand new exhaust bolts on it for some reason so it should be no trouble to uninstall. I figure dropping the driveshaft/exhaust is probably going to make the job easier working on the shifter bushings. After I've done it once I will probably do it without dropping the driveshaft in the future, but it's probably worth removing it to do the job this time for learning purposes. I may not replace anything but shifter bushings. I think the guibo is pretty fresh, but I'll take the opportunity to replace all the fasteners I remove so that future work should be pretty easy. I'd put in the z3 shifter but honestly I'm pretty happy with the shift throw. I just want to firm up the shifter because right now it's pretty sloppy and I know that most of my shifting complaints are because of the loose linkage and not the transmission itself.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2010 03:25
|
|
|
Crustashio posted:enough teeth were broken for the ball to actually pop out of the socket when going into 2nd or 4th. Uh holy poo poo. Ok, I stand by THIS statement then: Sterndotstern posted:The shifter bushing swap doesn't improve the shift feel enough to merit the work of dropping the exhaust and driveshaft by itself, but if you ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO DO IT TO AVOID DYING IN A GERMAN FIREBALL then it's probably a good idea. I highly highly recommend having a blue wrench (MAPP or oxy-acetylene torch) handy when removing your exhaust. Unless you've already done it, removing the exhaust bolts will be the most difficult part of the job.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2010 03:26
|
|
|
Today on a whim I decided to hook my Peake Research scan tool up to my E36 to see if it had thrown any codes. My car has been feeling kind of sluggish lately, probably due to 13-year-old oxygen sensors, but it isn't throwing any check engine codes so it might be my imagination. I know the CEL works because it lights up during ignition. Anyway, it came back with table 11, F5 and F6 which is 'secondary air system flow too low, cyl 1-3' and 'secondary air system flow too low, cyl 4-6.' Doing some research, it looks like it is the check valve and/or the air pump. Which together are expensive, seemingly more so than they used to be. It also appears that I can replace them at my leisure. Now seeing as I didn't even get a CEL yet, might this be a fluke? I plan on going through all the diagnostics but assuming I do need a new valve and pump would it cause any harm in waiting until the spring? It should be noted that winters here are fairly harsh, with temperatures hitting -10°F sometimes. Also, anybody know where I can get a decently-priced air pump? I'll be checking the local junkyard but I have never seen an E36 there of any year for some reason. edit: actually my non-return vacuum line coming off of the valve was split. I taped it up for now and hopefully that solves the problem. I'll replace it soon because I don't think electrical tape will hold it together so close to the exhaust. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Sep 29, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2010 00:10
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:Today on a whim I decided to hook my Peake Research scan tool up to my E36 to see if it had thrown any codes. My car has been feeling kind of sluggish lately, probably due to 13-year-old oxygen sensors, but it isn't throwing any check engine codes so it might be my imagination. I know the CEL works because it lights up during ignition. Do you live somewhere where you need to pass emissions? If not, rip all that poo poo out.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2010 05:27
|
|
|
Beach Bum posted:Do you live somewhere where you need to pass emissions? If not, rip all that poo poo out. No, but I had read that removing (or not fixing) it could lead to early oxygen sensor or cat failure. Not sure how, but I don't think I want to remove the system entirely.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2010 13:54
|
|
|
The Will posted:My E30 starter problem has resurfaced - every now and then when I turn the key to start the car, nothing happens - the starter doesn't turn over or anything. I've already swapped out the motor/solenoid itself with a tested-working version If the key turns and no voltage is applied to the starter, its possible that the ignition switch died. If so, it's around $60 from the dealer. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AJ93&mospid=47318&btnr=32_0854&hg=32&fg=30&hl=18 (Of course look it up for your year, that's just the one for one of my e30's.) 8ender posted:BMW apparently says nein to replacing the bushings on the aluminum arms but has no problem with new bushings on the steel ones. No idea why but the replacement on the way is a steel one. gently caress replacing the entire arm every time the bushing dies. BMW does say not to reuse a LCAB that was removed, for obvious possible breakage. revmoo posted:Has anyone done shifter bushings? Mine need done and I'm not sure if I want to drop the driveshaft/exhaust or not. I know it can be done without but it's a lot harder because you can't see what you're doing and it's a tight fit. You won't be that impressed with new bushings in the stock shifter. My ZF has ~170k on it or thereabouts, and I thought the same. New bushings have to make it feel better, right? So I replaced everything external of the shifter, including the chassis mount, and pivot on the tranny. Still felt like crap. UUC EVO3 fixed that right away. Do you have new motor/trans mounts? I forget. If not, do them too. OEM M3 are fine, or Vorshlag if you like to feel your car a little at idle 
SiGmA_X fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Sep 29, 2010 |
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2010 23:45
|
|
|
<<double post>>
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2010 23:50
|
|
|
Help help! Hoping someone has run into this before! Car is a 11/93 production 316i touring RHD. I'm replacing my front driver's side brake caliper, as the seals in the old one went and the piston's damaged. The new caliper I've been sent is a correctly-handed Girling (like the old one), but slightly different in the details of the casting to my existing ones (slightly different shapes and dimensions although the bracket mounts match up - the new ones say "48" and "BMW" on them - the old ones just say BMW and have a ~3 letter code I can't make out). The car has been running goodridge hoses with no issues for a couple of years. On bolting up the new caliper to the flex line, no matter what I do, the caliper can not be installed without putting a half twist in the line. If you straighten the line out, the caliper faces backwards (as if it was a leading, rather than trailing fitment). I've tried twisting the line before fitting, putting the caliper in all sorts of positions and have had about 10-15 goes. On replacing the original caliper, it ends up correctly oriented with no twist 100% of the time (out of the 3 goes I gave it), despite being a bugger to get the fitting threading on correctly. Does this mean I've been given an incorrect caliper or a faulty caliper? (I had a quick look on realoem and didn't see a leading caliper installation for the e30 or e36.) Or is it something that can be fixed if I loosen the brake hose at the hard line fitting, and just try bolting the hard line back up in different positions until everything is correctly oriented? I don't remember having this level of PITA putting the lines on the car, but am hesitant to start loving with old hard line fittings unless it's definitely the way to go. Pic of the problem installation for reference. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2010 12:37
|
|
|
I was reading that new BMW convertibles have their seats coated with some sort of stuff that makes their seats up to 30 degrees cooler in sunlight. Anyone know if it actually works? If so, can it be applied to older cars? I have a 8 or so year old 3 series convertible and the seats get ridiculously hot in the sunlight, it would be cool if it's something they can do to older cars.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2010 22:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 00:05 |
|
|
I can tell you that the comparison display at BMW Welt in Munich is rigged: one side uses a noticeably brighter and warmer lamp. This may not be indicative of the effectiveness of the actual product, but I'd expected better
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2010 02:15
|
|