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McSpankWich posted:Makerbot... It looks like someone took a print quality troubleshooting chart and photoshopped every "If your print looks like this" picture into one. For your lifting issue, is it a glass bed? ditch the blue tape snd use a glue stick. Find a way to add a heated bed (seriously, it doesn't have one in TYOOL 2016!?) and you'll be set. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 01:46 on May 14, 2016 |
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May 14, 2016 01:41
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Well good it sounds like it's just right hosed. Is there a guide somewhere of how to troubleshoot/calibrate the axes, or is this basically what we're doomed to live with forever? No, it doesn't have a heated bed. So I think it's just going to have to stay on the center 60% of the bed to prevent the tape from lifting, anything with a larger footprint than that starts warping. I printed a semi large item (part of a tiny screws drawer assembly) at a lower extrusion temperature in the center of the bed overnight to see what happens, I can post a pic tomorrow to see if any improvements were made. McSpankWich fucked around with this message at 03:20 on May 14, 2016 |
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May 14, 2016 03:17
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I made a star knob OpenSCAD script that I think looks pretty great.  I think I started writing this about half a year ago, put in quite a few days work spread out here and there over that time, and today its finally published on Thingiverse. It's my favorite customizable project yet. Its really entertaining to play with the parameters and see what shapes come out. I tried to make it produce a sensible shape for most combinations of inputs, so its pretty flexible.     
peepsalot fucked around with this message at 20:00 on May 14, 2016 |
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May 14, 2016 10:25
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Listerine posted:My division just got a TAZ 5 and it falls to me to install and operate it. Are there any other nice things to know before I set it up, anything settings-wise or any other little tricks to get it running? Getting the TAZ up and going should be pretty straightforward. There are a lot of tricks to 3D printing as a whole and the best advice I can give is to hit up thingiverse, search for something that looks interesting, and start printing. If your boss asks why you have spent two rolls of filament replicating rabbits, just tell them you are working through the learning curve prior to having to meet an impossibly short deadline that most likely will be set by someone with anger issues. Take the time now to get to know anyone else at your company that has a desktop printer, even if they are in a different location than you, as they can be your best source of help without causing non-disclosure related issues. Filament wise start with PLA, it is easier to print with and the smell is not as bad (the most common complaint about the five printers I support at work is smell.) This website on print quality issues from Simplfy3D is good resource to keep on hand. If you need replacement bearings, you can contact Lulzbot sales directly to order them. The more expensive option would be to print new bearing holders and swap out to a completely different type of bearings and rods. There are details on doing this on the Lulzbot forums. McSpankWich posted:We just got a Makerbot Replicator at work, and we're having difficulty with the blue painter's tape squares peeling up and off the bed, causing the parts to warp and distort. The bed isn't heated, we're using rafts, PLA plastic, with an extruder temp at 215C (the default). For the next job I want to try to drop the temp to 205 and see if that works. I'm not sure what else to do, though. Any ideas? Do you have a Replicator Mini? Getting good adhesion with PLA onto blue tape is not that difficult if the bed is flat, the hot end's nozzle is not too far from the bed, and the printer is not extruding too little plastic. Unfortunately, you could have issues with all of these. The mini has an removable acrylic bed and going off of the build quality of the three Replicator 2X's I support, could easily have alignment issues. Being acrylic, it may not be flat to begin with and if they made it too thin it will be prone to warp and might end up trash anyway. If the default extrude settings as similar to what they use for the Replicator 2X, the standard settings are prone to underextrude. Makerware/Makerbot Desktop does not make it easy to adjust the first layer height or amount of plastic you extrude. If it is the same as adjusting the configuration on the Replicator 2X, you can create a custom print profile that is a text file you edit to. It will open the file for you, but you are on your own from there. Near the bottom of the file will be a section that includes extruder profiles. Find the one that sounds like it is for the first layer and either change or add a feedstockMultiplier. You can copy a line from somewhere else, like the one under bridging, and bump the value down a few points (ie 0.78 to 0.76, it should be a divider not an actual multiplier.) Or you could take the easy way out and start printing on rafts. Rafts are like the only thing Makerbot does right. For future reference, Lulzbot is pretty easy to work with and their Mini is in that price range as well. From a user perspective it is just as easy to get up and going with their product as it is a makerbot, but theirs is not an overprice piece of garbage. Not that telling you any of this will change anything, just if you ever get a chance to vent you can let them know the internet raged at you over a choice you did not get to make.
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May 14, 2016 15:58
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If I ever get a more expensive printer than my i3v first thing I will do is price out switching all the bearings to German engineered ones. Second thing will probably be take out a second mortgage to pay for them.
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May 14, 2016 18:34
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Started the build of a new 3D printer. http://www.instructables.com/id/Vulcanus-MAX-CoreXY-Aluminum-Frame-RepRap-3D-Print/ Printing parts on the Raise 3D N2-  We switched ABS filament and then started getting lifting all of a sudden. We have the heated bed at max 110 C on a Buildtak surface, and we solved the original issues by keeping the head as close as possible to the print. Is it typical to find this kind of variance between manufacturers?  Is there anything else we can try?
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May 14, 2016 19:54
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TheBigBad posted:Is there anything else we can try? PET(G) filament
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May 14, 2016 19:59
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Here's a print from last night using eSun ABS... it is better with the same settings... but still not perfect. When I left the left corner was beginning to show some lift, but now it looks like the right corner lifted more overnight. PET(G) prints fine.
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May 14, 2016 20:05
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TheBigBad posted:
Yes there can be a lot of variance from one brand to another. Even the size can vary on the same roll (3mm is more of a pain with this issues though.) How many prints have been done on he sheet of Buildtak you are using? Have you tried adding a brim?
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May 14, 2016 20:09
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TheBigBad posted:PET(G) prints fine. Great now throw all the ABS in the trash and never speak of it again.
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May 14, 2016 20:11
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torpedan posted:Yes there can be a lot of variance from It's pretty new. A few boxes a couple things off of thingiverse and what you see in the parts picture. What's a brim?
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May 14, 2016 20:33
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I'm not happy with hand-leveling my printer since the tolerances of the Z-axis stop is pretty loose (it's a long screw going through 1mm metal so the screw has a lot of wobble), and the springs holding up the heatbed are suspect (3 out of 4 are taut, one is floppy loose) I've ordered an inductive proximity sensor, the 8mm one that everyone on the innernets recommends. Anyone know what thickness aluminum bed I should get for best results? Access to aluminum and getting it cut to size aren't problems at all since my dad has plenty of stock and access to a machine shop, but I'm not sure what thickness of plate I should ask for. Some people say that just getting aluminum tape and putting it on the underside of the glass would be enough to trigger the sensor, but I have severe doubts about that. 3/4" feels like it would probably be overkill, I'm thinking about something like 1/4". I'm wondering whether anyone's done this mod and can comment on what they used. I have no doubt I'll be able to get this printer to a state I'm happy with, but I honestly can't recommend Geeetech i3 at this point. So much extra work needed and the quality is.... not the greatest. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 21:56 on May 14, 2016 |
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May 14, 2016 21:45
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Martytoof posted:I'm not happy with hand-leveling my printer since the tolerances of the Z-axis stop is pretty loose (it's a long screw going through 1mm metal so the screw has a lot of wobble), and the springs holding up the heatbed are suspect (3 out of 4 are taut, one is floppy loose)  That's what you should be focusing on, not new sensors. A floppy mechanical system is an unreliable mechanical system, regardless of what new toys you put in there.
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May 14, 2016 22:10
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Well the sensor is going to replace the Z-stop so I'll be able to remove the screw altogether, and the thicker metal plate will push the springs taut so I'm kind of fixing my issues with the prox sensor and alu plate. I mean I see what you're saying, but I can't do much about the loose screw without replacing part of the X gantry since that's just what it screws into, and then if I'm already at it I may as well put this thing in that means I don't have to futz with adjusting the hotplate manually.
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May 14, 2016 22:58
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Once you get it level, you really shouldn't have to mess with it for a long time. That "3 tight springs, one loose thing" is the old "3 points define a plane, 4 points define a problem." Loosen all of the screws back to a uniform distance and tighten them back in equally. Small adjustments to each screw as you go around the bed. So many complaints about warped beds and rocking glass are just someone making a large adjustment to one screw at some point. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 23:30 on May 14, 2016 |
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May 14, 2016 23:28
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Yeah, that's fair. I'll try that. I did already order the sensor and ask about the alu plate, but I guess it won't matter much if I can't print a mount for the sensor so I've got to get this working beforehand anyway. Thanks for the advice!
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May 15, 2016 01:22
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TheBigBad posted:It's pretty new. A few boxes a couple things off of thingiverse and what you see in the parts picture. Buildtak can have a fairly limited life and if all of those were printed in the same area you may have exceeded it. If there is a spot on the bed that is not been used very much you might try printing the part there to see if it sticks better. That or try a new sheet of it if nothing else works. A brim is additional shells/perimeters that are added to the first layer of a print (think of it as like the brim on a hat.) They increase the contact area of the print and help it stick better to the bed. The extra material can be peeled or cut off after the part is removed from the bed.
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May 15, 2016 02:42
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I've been absent from this thread for the last 2000+ replies, and only tangentially involved in 3D printers at my hackerspace. However, this week we picked up two donated Zcorp 450 machines complete with 200lbs of consumables, and I have been experimenting a lot with full color prints and 3D scans (I have a 3DSense). I've been printing creepy miniatures of members and friends, but am also looking for pre-made models. Other than the native *.zbd files it prints, the best import format I have found is *.ply. Is there a good source of free models in this format, or an easy way to convert 3ds or whatever files into *.ply?
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May 16, 2016 13:40
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Hillridge posted:I've been absent from this thread for the last 2000+ replies, and only tangentially involved in 3D printers at my hackerspace. However, this week we picked up two donated Zcorp 450 machines complete with 200lbs of consumables, and I have been experimenting a lot with full color prints and 3D scans (I have a 3DSense). I've been printing creepy miniatures of members and friends, but am also looking for pre-made models. Other than the native *.zbd files it prints, the best import format I have found is *.ply. Is there a good source of free models in this format, or an easy way to convert 3ds or whatever files into *.ply? You need Zprint to convert STL files to the ZBD format that printer reads. http://zprint-software.software.informer.com/7.6/ Guide for using it here: http://wiki.daap.uc.edu/groups/infocenter/wiki/01303/STL_File_Prep_3ds_Max_2011.html As well as lots of other info for the particular setup you have can be found by exploring that wiki, you lucky bastard.
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May 16, 2016 14:40
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The printer's software can convert STL to ZBD no problem, but STL don't carry color data, so they are a bit boring to print. Most full color models I've found are in something other than PLY though.
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May 16, 2016 15:07
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How do you guys store your PLA. Do you just leave it hanging off the printer when not in use, or do you pull it back and put it in an airtight container to avoid any moisture contamination?
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May 16, 2016 15:13
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Martytoof posted:How do you guys store your PLA. Do you just leave it hanging off the printer when not in use, or do you pull it back and put it in an airtight container to avoid any moisture contamination? I try and keep mine in airtight containers, but it's almost always a losing battle for me since I live in a high humidity area. I built a filament safe, and threw a big gun safe dehumidifier in there to keep my filament good. Probably going to rebuild it soon though. 
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May 16, 2016 15:47
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Hillridge posted:The printer's software can convert STL to ZBD no problem, but STL don't carry color data, so they are a bit boring to print. Most full color models I've found are in something other than PLY though. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)#Color_in_binary_STL
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May 16, 2016 15:52
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HP did a thing That'll be awesome in 20 years when the patents expire. They even have a demo of a printed chain link (huge) lifting a car.
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May 17, 2016 18:05
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Is it ok to use a hot glue gun on something that's been 3D printed? Or is there a preferred glue to use on it?
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May 18, 2016 01:54
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mattfl posted:Is it ok to use a hot glue gun on something that's been 3D printed? Or is there a preferred glue to use on it? I used it on a PLA print I made a couple months ago, I think I was using a "high temperature" glue gun and it definitely made the thin PLA soft again, a low temp might be better, but it holds great once it cools. If you're trying to bond two ABS prints you can partially melt the surface with acetone and stick them together or make a "glue" with excess ABS scrap and acetone that will bond them together. Super glue or expoy will will work fine too.
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May 18, 2016 02:13
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FireTora posted:I used it on a PLA print I made a couple months ago, I think I was using a "high temperature" glue gun and it definitely made the thin PLA soft again, a low temp might be better, but it holds great once it cools. If you're trying to bond two ABS prints you can partially melt the surface with acetone and stick them together or make a "glue" with excess ABS scrap and acetone that will bond them together. Super glue or expoy will will work fine too. Trying to hold down a PCB onto the 3D printed part.
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May 18, 2016 02:31
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I've done that it works well just don't hold the hot glue gun nozzle directly against the printed part.
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May 18, 2016 02:50
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Agreed, also if you soldered any stuff on it try to stay away from those solder joints, I had quit a space to fill to solder the little PCB I was gluing down and it remelted some of my solder joints from the heat surprisingly and I had to resolder a couple of them.
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May 18, 2016 03:11
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Hillridge posted:I've been absent from this thread for the last 2000+ replies, and only tangentially involved in 3D printers at my hackerspace. However, this week we picked up two donated Zcorp 450 machines complete with 200lbs of consumables, and I have been experimenting a lot with full color prints and 3D scans (I have a 3DSense). I've been printing creepy miniatures of members and friends, but am also looking for pre-made models. Other than the native *.zbd files it prints, the best import format I have found is *.ply. Is there a good source of free models in this format, or an easy way to convert 3ds or whatever files into *.ply? Whoa, nice! Photoshop CC is decent for texturing 3D models nowadays if you want a reasonably familiar interface. Thingiverse has a limited amount of colour stuff, but the photogrammetry tag will show some decent stuff with textures. If you need aftermarket cyanoacrylate, this stuff is good: http://www.surehold.com/adhesives/30-3d-fix-500gr.html Autodesk Recap 360 is great for producing scans from your phone or dslr photos, better than 123d catch imo (and better than the sense for colour), and is free to use with an education account. The Sense 3D scanner is also best used with Skanect rather than the 3D Systems software, if you want to go that route one last thing - whether you're depowdering or sanding or finishing anything from this printer, please make sure that everyone involved is wearing a respirator and glasses (and goggles for infiltration), and if your makerspace has access to one, a downdraft table Snackmar fucked around with this message at 05:40 on May 18, 2016 |
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May 18, 2016 05:37
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Currently working with a Printrbot Simple Wood & Lulzbot Taz 5. My latest project is turning a broken 3Dsystems 3D Touch into something better.
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May 18, 2016 06:11
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Lulzbot Taz 6 drops (or has it already)? Also this is kind of interesting, link to Zmorph's 3-in-1 machine I didn't realize there was actually a 3D printer / Laser engraver / CNC mill all in one on the market. The neat part is their sample pack - it's made using those three which is a cute idea.
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May 18, 2016 17:28
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I haven't seen much information anywhere about ABS+ (although it is really hard to google for so who can tell if it is being talked about anywhere). I thought I'd post my experience with eSUN Black ABS+ 1.75mm. ABS+ is supposed to have lower shrinkage and help prevent warping. I don't know what's in it to give it the + but it definitely has a lower glass transition temperature than traditional ABS. With the old I could run the heatbed at 110C and a large printed square of 0.70mm thickness would be transitioning to melty. At 105C with the ABS+ I am fully past Tg in that you can pick it up and it can't maintain its shape. It shows similar properties to the pure ABS somewhere just above 100C. eSUN claims 0.4% shrinkage although they don't state between what two temperatures (I assume 220C -> 30C) and they compare that to 8% for ABS. However, I believe that's just a typo because it should be closer to 0.8% for ABS shrinkage. As far as warping goes, I get less edge curl on my large, troubling prints printing ABS+ at 98C without an enclosure as I did with ABS at 108C with the enclosure. Hotend temperatures seemed to be about the same, 230C works fine with my volcano with the 0.6mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer height, 70mm/s. The smell when printing smells sort of like extruded polystyrene which might be the secret sauce. PS has a Tg of 95C and a melt point of ~240C. The density of PS also nearly identical to ABS which would make a spool of each indistinguishable.
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May 18, 2016 18:17
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In Marlin firmware: if I go to the eeprom settings, are those the same settings that I'd be configuring in the Marlin configuration file? I'm just trying to figure out what I need to configure in Marlin's config file if I want to upload a new firmware. I really don't want to ask Geeetech for a config file since I heard they're just bad to deal with, and if possible I'd like to figure this out myself. Since this is just a glorified Arduino sketch, if I dump the hex with avrdude that should be enough for a backup, right? edit: I'm finally printing and it feels good. I'm trying to get a good handle on quality settings. I'm not quite happy with my setup and my prints are coming out rougher than I'd like, but that's part of the fun of figuring this out. I'm basically considering my first spool of PLA a burner to get this baby up and running. In retrospect I wish I'd picked something other than black so I could see more details of prints. I'm thinking of mounting a light next to the head or at least a fixed light pointing at the build plate so I can get a better look at what's going on.
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May 19, 2016 14:16
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Man, I wish I'd waited a little bit before buying printers. Now there is an updated Prusa i3 MK2 design that has 99% of my wish list features. http://prusaprinters.org/original-prusa-i3-mk2-release/ Only thing lacking is an enclosure. Pretty sweet for a $699 kit or $899 assembled printer.
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May 19, 2016 14:24
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Wade Wilson posted:Man, I wish I'd waited a little bit before buying printers. Now there is an updated Prusa i3 MK2 design that has 99% of my wish list features. If you have the original i3 it looks like there's a $200 upgrade kit you can get. http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printer-parts/106-original-prusa-i3-plus-to-mk2-upgrade-kit.html#_ga=1.141031794.1992189622.1459786419
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May 19, 2016 14:34
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techknight posted:Whoa, nice! Photoshop CC is decent for texturing 3D models nowadays if you want a reasonably familiar interface. Thingiverse has a limited amount of colour stuff, but the photogrammetry tag will show some decent stuff with textures. Thanks for the tips, I've gotten decent with the 3Dsense software, but it is kind of lovely. I'll give Skanect and Recap 360 a try too. The machine has a built in depowdering station on the right with a downdraft table that helps to keep the dust well contained. We have a fume hood I plan to use when infiltrating the parts. So far we've just tried tubes of generic superglue and the results are ok but not stellar. I'm looking forward to trying the CA you linked if I can find it for sale.
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May 19, 2016 14:37
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Martytoof posted:If you have the original i3 it looks like there's a $200 upgrade kit you can get. The "i3" I have is via Monoprice, which is a clone of the Wanhao variant. Not really a good option for it. That printer does surprisingly well for half the price, but still. Wish I'd known about the MK2 first.
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May 19, 2016 14:53
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http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275091/#files Neat, Tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton for everyone instead of just makerbots!
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May 19, 2016 16:01
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Wade Wilson posted:The "i3" I have is via Monoprice, which is a clone of the Wanhao variant. Not really a good option for it. You're still paying $700 for a floppy frame and a moving y-axis bed with that "upgraded" Prusa kit. The Wanhao is plenty to learn the process, crank out quality prints and eventually print what you need to build and maintain a nicer machine.
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May 19, 2016 16:05
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