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Delivery McGee posted:I had a '70s version I got for $5 at a yard sale, just abandoned it in place instead of trying to move it out. 
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Oct 18, 2015 00:04
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You guys are pussies. I have one of these fuckers. http://www.upsforless.ca/browseproducts/APC-NetShelter-42U-Premium-Equipment-Rack-Refurbished-(AR1000A).html  331 lbs of steel and glass. I got it in and out of my old 3rd floor apartment. And it was a loft style apartment in an old warehouse, so each floor was 14ft. 
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Oct 18, 2015 04:54
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KillHour posted:331 lbs of steel and glass. I wanna make a kegerator out of that.
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Oct 18, 2015 06:54
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Does "funny construction tales" work here? Guy I know was telling me about a piece of machinery they were installing in the factory he works at. The floor is a raised floor, and the machine weighed a zillion pounds, much more than the rated capacity for the floor. In anticipation of the machine being delivered, they reinforced a line of floor tiles from the dock where it was to be unloaded to the space where it would live forever. It was delivered without incident, but it was pretty funny to hear about how they had the route taped off with the understanding that if anyone deviated from the path, they'd punch through the floor.
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Oct 18, 2015 06:56
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I'm having some serious dejavu...
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Oct 18, 2015 07:36
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I repeat myself in my old age
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Oct 18, 2015 08:40
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To everyone who PM'd me about a desk, I'll get back to you as soon as I know my schedule for the coming two weeks. I'll PM you back by Monday at the latest.
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Oct 18, 2015 09:50
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The question I want an answer to is “how well does a Steelcase desk work at preventing motorbike theft?”
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Oct 18, 2015 11:11
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It depends, are you planning to throw it out of a third floor window onto the thief, and if so, will you be putting any sort of crumple zone type protective device on first?
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Oct 18, 2015 13:24
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The thief IS the crumple zone.
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Oct 18, 2015 14:24
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canyoneer posted:Does "funny construction tales" work here? That's not all that uncommon in industry. When I worked in a semiconductor fab whenever new machinery was due to be delivered a civil engineer would walk the route and mark it with tape. They would also supervise the move in and had authority to cut pressure supply to the air casters and bring the entire move to a slamming halt.
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Oct 18, 2015 15:00
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We're remodeling the office at work and then entire loving thing is covered with wood paneling. 10 foot high walls all wood paneling from the 60's. Are they taking down the paneling? Hell no, just cover it with drywall and have a nice day.
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Oct 18, 2015 15:25
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GreenNight posted:We're remodeling the office at work and then entire loving thing is covered with wood paneling. 10 foot high walls all wood paneling from the 60's. Are they taking down the paneling? Hell no, just cover it with drywall and have a nice day.
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Oct 18, 2015 15:30
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Nitrox posted:Probably better for insulation that way, but labor cost is the #1 factor here, no doubt. That's exactly right. It was tens of thousands just for one wing of one floor to remove the paneling.
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Oct 18, 2015 15:32
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kelvron posted:Over the summer, I got a new ac unit to replace the one above that burnt out last summer. Awesome, right? Where does that cable go? Did your landlord do it themselves or pay a contractor? (either way, not trimming down the old interior panelling at least is pretty lovely because they didn't even need to bring any wood trimming, and the outside could be covered with tin flashing and any WWRAC installer should have plenty of that) E: Also, out of interest (I used to do aircon in Australia), who is still making WWRACs/what brands in that? Last I knew, which is a few years ago, all the big names stopped, and it was only Korea (LG) and China (Teco, Kelvinator) making them. 2nd edit: Where is the condensate drain point on the back? Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Oct 18, 2015 |
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Oct 18, 2015 17:19
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Fo3 posted:Where does that cable go? Window mount air conditioners are still quite common in the US in older buildings, homes, and apartments, that were built with steam or hot water heat and no central ducting. All of the window units you can buy now are made in China, Korea, or Mexico and are sold under the major US appliance brands, eg, Maytag, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, GE, Amana, Kenmore, Carrier and super low end models by Haier and big box store house brands. Mini-splits are quickly gaining more and more market share though. What I'm wondering is if that Aircon will chew through more electricity than the 240V unit it replaced.
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Oct 18, 2015 19:10
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I just had ductless AC/heat units installed on each floor of my house and it's been the best decision ever. They are supposed to be far more efficient than central. The heat they provide doesn't make me feel like i'm going to have a nosebleed and the AC is steady awesome. And they are nearly silent. I can't understand why more of the US doesn't use these things. My sister said this is all they installed in Iraq and she loves them.
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Oct 18, 2015 19:23
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Tigntink posted:I just had ductless AC/heat units installed on each floor of my house and it's been the best decision ever. They are supposed to be far more efficient than central. The heat they provide doesn't make me feel like i'm going to have a nosebleed and the AC is steady awesome. And they are nearly silent. I can't understand why more of the US doesn't use these things. My sister said this is all they installed in Iraq and she loves them. How much (ballpark) did it cost, if you don't mind me asking?
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Oct 18, 2015 19:33
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flosofl posted:How much (ballpark) did it cost, if you don't mind me asking? Well we have a quad split so we had to go with a pretty huge unit. After the local rebate of 1500$ it was 12,000. That's one unit outdoors and one unit on each floor. Factors that went into purchase: We had no AC and after the last two horrific PNW summers we finally decided to use the rainy day fund for it. The pricing would have been exactly the same if we put in central AC and heating. We have ducting but it isn't rated for cooling and our furnace is 35 years old and is going to die at any second. Also the ballpark estimate for cost savings is about 40% less from where we were during the winter. Forced air electric furnaces are complete poo poo.
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Oct 18, 2015 19:49
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Tigntink posted:I can't understand why more of the US doesn't use these things Tigntink posted:After the local rebate of 1500$ it was 12,000.
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Oct 18, 2015 20:03
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flosofl posted:How much (ballpark) did it cost, if you don't mind me asking? Rough estimate would be $3k-$4k per head.
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Oct 18, 2015 20:13
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Which was the exact same price as central hence my sentiments of - why not choose these over central air.
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Oct 18, 2015 20:48
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Tigntink posted:Which was the exact same price as central hence my sentiments of - why not choose these over central air. I got a quote of $1,800 to install central air (2 ton) in one of my places. $12,000 is insanity to me.
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Oct 18, 2015 21:09
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sleepy gary posted:I got a quote of $1,800 to install central air (2 ton) in one of my places. $12,000 is insanity to me. Wow, that's insanely cheap. My last quote for a 2.5 ton unit + new furnace and pipes for the coolant came to about $7500.
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Oct 18, 2015 21:12
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flosofl posted:Wow, that's insanely cheap. My last quote for a 2.5 ton unit + new furnace and pipes for the coolant came to about $7500. I already have a modern furnace in that place, but even with what I paid for that it was nowhere near $7500 total with the projected cost of adding AC. I looked into ductless systems because I have a place with boiler heating and the cost was nuts. It was going to be like $8,500 minimum to do it half-assed. e: Does anyone know how the initial costs for ductless systems in Europe and Asia compares to the US? sleepy gary fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Oct 18, 2015 |
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Oct 18, 2015 21:15
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sleepy gary posted:I got a quote of $1,800 to install central air (2 ton) in one of my places. $12,000 is insanity to me. Maybe its a regional thing. PNW homes rarely have AC due to the historically stable temperature range but the last few years plus the droughts have hosed things up. We got 3 quotes and they were all in the same range and did the same for all of them - checked central vs ductless and pricing was all in the same range. Every company had a 2+ month wait due to extremely high demand as well.
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Oct 18, 2015 22:05
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Tigntink posted:Maybe its a regional thing. PNW homes rarely have AC due to the historically stable temperature range but the last few years plus the droughts have hosed things up. We got 3 quotes and they were all in the same range and did the same for all of them - checked central vs ductless and pricing was all in the same range. Every company had a 2+ month wait due to extremely high demand as well. I can't explain why central and ductless was the same cost in your case but I am sure the fact that your ducts aren't "rated for cooling" plays a huge role there. Any whole-house ductwork retrofit would cost a fortune, which is why I can't convert my boiler-heated house to ducted central air feasibly. I really love the idea of the ductless systems but their cost makes it impossible to justify in my case.
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Oct 18, 2015 22:11
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Should probably get back on track with crappy construction. Maybe not crappy construction exactly but the previous owners of this house never bothered to check the foundation edges ... like ever... in the 30 years they owned this place. Unfortunately leaves piled up against the house which turned to dirt and solidified. This rotted a bunch of our house's siding and meant that I am slowly getting to dealing with each section with a shovel myself and regrading away from the house. Because this house is built on a hill, the back of the house is pretty miserable to deal with because they did try to create sort of rock berms to keep the dirt away, but again these require that the owners at least pull the leaves out and they never did. Today was - lay on the ground with a hand shovel and slowly dig down until I hit concrete again and see that there's a good 3ft of completely damaged siding to replace.
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Oct 18, 2015 22:20
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sleepy gary posted:e: Does anyone know how the initial costs for ductless systems in Europe and Asia compares to the US? Not that much lower. Most of what gets installed in the US is higher end stuff, so that adds maybe $500 to the cost, and a large part of the price depends on cost of labor. I'd guess the cheapest cost of living countries get installs down $1.5k-$2k, but the wealthier nations are probably right around US costs. But they've also typically got smaller, single floor residences, without forced air ductwork, so installing a single head is adequate and cheaper than any other option.
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Oct 18, 2015 22:24
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Fo3 posted:Where does that cable go? Cable runs to an exterior light. So I can plug it into an exterior outlet. Because actually wiring it into my house's electrical system is too complicated, I guess. At least this extension cord has a ground, unlike the one I found running to an outlet in my kitchen. I pointed out the missing siding to my landlord when I moved in over a year ago. I guess it's not that important. My landlord has 'handymen' on his payroll. They're fast and cheap. Build quality is not an important thing apparently. I really want to point out that the AC is a window unit, not a dedicated wall-mount unit. Instead of framing it in, the 'handyman' used the accordion panels to fill in the gaps. Can't find a drain point, but I've not noticed any moisture inside.
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Oct 18, 2015 22:32
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Fo3 posted:2nd edit: Where is the condensate drain point on the back? Inside the wall of course. Or maybe it blows the hot air over the condensate pan to evaporate it into the outside air. It might even work in dry climates.
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Oct 19, 2015 02:15
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CopperHound posted:Inside the wall of course. Yeah, it's pretty normal for them to splash some water around the condenser (raises capacity), but they still have some sort of overflow drain normally as well. In australia split systems are more common these days. About $400 for a 1.25hp made in china one, up to $1800 for a 7hp main brand one. They are so much quieter and efficient than a WWRAC. The main cost of them is installation, wiring to the switchboard and piping, which is restricted here - need to be licenced installer/electrician/refrig tradesman. But being people in the US are allowed to DIY all that sort of stuff, I'm suprised they are not more common in the US. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Oct 19, 2015 |
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Oct 19, 2015 03:04
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Fo3 posted:But being people in the US are allowed to DIY all that sort of stuff, I'm suprised they are not more common in the US.
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Oct 19, 2015 04:17
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Tigntink posted:Unfortunately leaves piled up against the house which turned to dirt and solidified. This rotted a bunch of our house's siding So the crappy construction tale here is that you have wood on your home that close to the ground? I'm not saying that's an acceptable maintenance state, but it's also not an acceptable way to build a modern structure.
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Oct 19, 2015 04:22
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This past weekend I learned that if I want to light a fire under my slumlord-landlord's rear end, I only need to bring in a baggie of the roaches that I've been catching and throw it on their desk. Also, I learned that the reason no one can get the maintenance "department"(literally two guys with a truck of tools) to ever call them back regarding a work order is because the answering machine that you're forced to leave a message on is actually one of the guy's cell phones, and he likes to check his messages, delete them all, and never let anyone know who called in something. We have roaches because our neighbor's unit caught fire a month ago, and they were hoarders with bugs. No one's been in the apartment aside from an insurance adjuster the week after the fire, and we've been hearing chunks of things falling down every so often, as well as skittering and other noises. Our landlords like to hide behind the maintenance department. "Oh, we can't do anything. You need to call and leave them a message." They say. So after killing 25 roaches the weekend after the fire, I did exactly that. I called both the rent office, and the maintenance department, left voicemails detailing the problem, when it started, where the bugs are coming from, and what needs to be done to fix it. I then drafted up a letter saying much the same to the landlord, signed and dated by my wife and I, and placed it in their drop slot that same day. Then I waited. While I waited, I bought a spray bottle of Raid and spent a few days capturing, killing, and collecting various specimens of the roaches. After a week with no call back, I took 2 hours off of work to come home and find the landlord and perform the previously mentioned bug throwing and demand something be done. It was then that I learned that, when faced with an angry man with a bag of roaches, the landlord will fold faster than Superman on laundry day, write an email to Maintenance, and I'll have my problem taken care of less than an hour later. I really need to move the gently caress out of this place.
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Oct 19, 2015 04:30
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Motronic posted:So the crappy construction tale here is that you have wood on your home that close to the ground? Apparently this was A OK in 1979. There's less than a foot between the ground and wood around the entire house. Most places its around 6 inches. We paid for the awesome inspector that gave us the 30 page report and she basically said "yep, this was ok back then, obviously its a pain in the rear end for your life to deal with this now"
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Oct 19, 2015 04:48
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Fo3 posted:Yeah, it's pretty normal for them to splash some water around the condenser (raises capacity), but they still have some sort of overflow drain normally as well. I have central air and I'm even tempted to get a mini split system installed in the master bedroom as well because the former is too expensive to run overnight.
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Oct 19, 2015 12:50
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CopperHound posted:I think "allowed to" and "nobody will stop them" are two different things. Though I suppose there isn't much stopping a handy person from running the circuits and some soft copper and letting an HVAC guy purge and charge the system. Mini split sales ARE though the roof in the US actually. According to friends in the industry. I got one for my basement/workshop as well, it's great for anything other than extreme temperatures. Prices will predictably come down as the supply side ramps up. Local Home Depot actually sells the entire system right in the store, believe it or not.
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Oct 19, 2015 13:06
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~Coxy posted:I have central air and I'm even tempted to get a mini split system installed in the master bedroom as well because the former is too expensive to run overnight. That's the main downside of ducted systems. Especially as the main bedroom is usually at the front of the house, and the return air for the ducted is usually in the rear hallway where the other bedrooms are typically in Australia. Ducted only makes sense when heating or cooling more than three rooms simultaneously. Because I'm (or was) a fridgey and I had electricians as mates, install cost me nothing and I always prefered multiple splits. 1. redundancy - not such a big deal if a unit breaks down and you have to wait for warranty or parts and repairs (at least the other rooms are heated/cooled) 2. Two splits are still cheaper to run than one ducted. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 13:20 on Oct 19, 2015 |
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Oct 19, 2015 13:17
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sleepy gary posted:I got a quote of $1,800 to install central air (2 ton) in one of my places. $12,000 is insanity to me. I have an 1800sq ft home and was quoted $5000 just for the central heat/air units, not including any labor or necessary (and it is necessary) duct work. I'd be in at least $8k and high side is 10k. Granted, I only will need ductwork because the basement was finished after all HVAC considerations were made, but $1800 still seems ridiculously low for any new central heat/air unit. In any house.
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Oct 19, 2015 13:50
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