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Google Butt posted:Interesting. I think my limit would be $1k, maybe $1.2k. You make a good point, but I do like the idea of being able to design something and make small tweaks and changes at my leisure. Yeah on one hand you can say if you're not going to be printing >$1300 worth of poo poo then don't buy a printer just use shapeways or 3dhubs, but on the other hand it can be really punishingly hard and needlessly frustrating to try to work a 1-2 week turnaround on parts into your design workflow. Cheaper in $ but you pay in other ways.
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May 23, 2016 20:03
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Mister Sinewave posted:Yeah on one hand you can say if you're not going to be printing >$1300 worth of poo poo then don't buy a printer just use shapeways or 3dhubs, but on the other hand it can be really punishingly hard and needlessly frustrating to try to work a 1-2 week turnaround on parts into your design workflow. I actually just looked at 3dhubs, I absolutely love the concept. Is it actually possible to pay with your printer that way?
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May 23, 2016 23:44
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It can be somewhat profitable -- but it's beer money at best, and unless you already have a stellar reputation or a serious niche, you're going to be competing with college kids who just bought a Wanhao i3 and are printing for peanuts to buy weed.
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May 24, 2016 00:57
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Friend posted up a problem he's got with troubleshooting a benchy that came out looking all hosed up, so I told him I'd post the details here to see if anyone had any suggestions. Try 195 hotend and 60 on the bed, and save the program to an SD card and put it in the controller and run it from there. That benchy album looks like the filament was way too hot. So combine the 195 nozzle temp with a 100% fan speed if the fan isn't running already. Don't run over USB from a PC of any kind. Too many ways a communication lag can be introduced.
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May 24, 2016 01:08
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Frobbe posted:Any particular comments on the Hobbyking Fabrikator printers? I see they've released a version 1.5 fixing a bunch of poo poo. I very briefly backed that 101Hero 3D printer, but dropped that after reading the posts on it here. I don't have a lot of space in my apartment, so i figure the Fabrikator mini would fit nicely on a shelf next to my PC. If budget is not an equally large factor, there are some printers that have reasonable foot prints for usage on a desk. If you need a tiny printer though, the Fabrikator Mini is that, although you still need to allocate some space for a filament spool holder. It is not that much more space, but it can bump up the footprint a decent amount depending on how you set it up. I had a mixed experienced with the mine. To quote myself from an excessively long printer recommendation post: torpedan posted:Fabrikator Mini - $215 - 80 x 80 x 80 - This printer is a version of the Tiny Boy platform and is sold by Hobby King.If you have not ordered from them before it is important to know that back order status, pricing, and shipping costs will vary based on the warehouse it is being shipped from. The printer frame and printer bed is made from acrylic and it comes with a knockoff E3D v6 hot end and is limited by its components to below 240C. refleks posted:Do you have any example prints, and have you tried any of the mods like an SD slot or LCD? I don't have any pictures to share, the print quality is reasonably good for what it is and my biggest issue with the printer when it works is accessibility to the print area. This limitation was fixed though in the 1.5 by adding an opening to the front side of the printer. In the grand scheme of things the printer is slow, but it is livable as the build volume is not large enough to make it obvious just how slow it is. Mod wise, I added SD/LCD support which is easy to do as there is a how to video that details everything you need to know. The only trick to it is knowing that the red LCD screens require the cables to modified and rotated 180 degrees before plugging them in, but this is covered in the video linked above. My bed is warped pretty bad and needs to be replaced. Rather than go the heated bed route, I cut up the glass from an old picture frame and attached it to the top of the bed using a temporary adhesive. This change has worked pretty well so far. Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Friend posted up a problem he's got with troubleshooting a benchy that came out looking all hosed up, so I told him I'd post the details here to see if anyone had any suggestions. It looks like a combination of under-extrusion and being too hot. If turning the heat down does not help, try upping the flow a few percentage points. If you still have issues after that you may have debris in the nozzle. Getting a flake of metal in a nozzle will cause issues that look like those in the album. Things will print fine when the flake gets pulled back from the nozzle during retracts, but eventually it will move back down and restrict the flow of plastic.
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May 24, 2016 01:31
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Google Butt posted:You make a good point, but I do like the idea of being able to design something and make small tweaks and changes at my leisure. I use my printer almost exclusively for quadcopter parts. I just have a Printrbot Simple Metal with the larger heated bed. Works great.
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May 24, 2016 01:36
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I have a technical question for you fine goons. I have designed a small sleeve for a gopro knockoff that I want to eventually turn into a 360 camera rig. I am going to have one of these sleeves printed out in ABS to test my design. I modeled it so that the internal dimensions of the sleeve were the same as the external dimensions of the camera. I was then told that I needed to account for material warp/shrinkage by resizing the internal dimensions of the sleeve so that they are slightly larger than the camera's external dimensions. I was told "add a tolerance of .25mm to the design for a "snug" tight fit or .3mm for parts that are in contact but will glide past one another." My question is do I need to add half of that tolerance, say .15mm, to each dimension or do I add the full .3mm to each dimension?
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May 24, 2016 02:22
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My advice is to build some fudge factor into your design, because - It's not always intuitive/obvious how the plastic will shrink (it will shrink towards itself, so may actually make some features like holes larger). - There may be some warping depending on the design / how evenly it cools - Different brands/batches of ABS may shrink differently - The printer probably isn't calibrated to sub-mm dimensional accuracy anyway.
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May 24, 2016 02:43
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rawrr posted:My advice is to build some fudge factor into your design, because So if it is going to shrink then in which direction should my tolerance be added? To thicken the sleeve or to reduce its thickness?
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May 24, 2016 03:15
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jubjub64 posted:So if it is going to shrink then in which direction should my tolerance be added? To thicken the sleeve or to reduce its thickness? How many times do you want to print the same part? If you want it exact and are willing to do it three times, go trial and error. If you only way to pay for it once, error on the side of of the hole being larger and insert some shim material if needed.
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May 24, 2016 03:42
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torpedan posted:How many times do you want to print the same part? If you want it exact and are willing to do it three times, go trial and error. If you only way to pay for it once, error on the side of of the hole being larger and insert some shim material if needed. Thanks for that insight. I guess I'm going to have to do some trial and error to get what I want. One problem that I realize now is if I don't use the same machine for all of my prints then I'm at square one again. I'm using a local printing service so I don't know how much control I will have over that. Looks like shimming might be an option.
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May 24, 2016 04:19
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Also you can specify more outer shells (for a cost) that allows you to bore the hole out with a drill to the final needed size. On parts with holes all arranged vertically, I'll do six walls or so just in case I need to bore and smooth out the hole. Remember, 3D printing isn't the end-all-be-all. It can sometimes work best (or at all) when combined with some other basic "machining" and finishing techniques. You can do some amazing things with an extruded string of plastic, but the flipside of that coin is that you can only do so much with an extruded string of plastic.
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May 24, 2016 04:31
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quote:Try 195 hotend and 60 on the bed, and save the program to an SD card and put it in the controller and run it from there. torpedan posted:
Cool. I'll shoot the info over to him. Thanks 
Stupid_Sexy_Flander fucked around with this message at 04:49 on May 24, 2016 |
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May 24, 2016 04:40
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refleks posted:Do you have any example prints, and have you tried any of the mods like an SD slot or LCD? No mods per se, we skipped the SD/LCD and went straight to octoprint on a Pi we had laying around. I have put a large PC case fan blowing across the build platform and the base (to cool the electronics further) a couple of times but intend to print a proper duct and a base with a dedicated electronics fan. This was the very first test print, no tweaks, with no-name PLA: https://twitter.com/makerspace_gg/status/706908176638222336
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May 24, 2016 11:05
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Copolyester viscosity is a fickle bitch. I was having issues printing various parts I was printing in XT, with corner curling and whatever. I dropped the temperature by 5° and suddenly everything is fine. Coincidentally, I was trying to print my custom cooling thingymajic for better printing. 
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May 24, 2016 16:21
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I'm going to grab the Prusa i3 MK2.. now my only decision is kit or assembled. I'm fairly confident I can built that kit, but I'm not familiar with how easy they are to gently caress up when you're assembling them. edit: Ordered the kit. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 09:48 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 09:07
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techknight posted:The one at work is, yeah - ~150 DSLRs with custom electronics/hubs to deal with all that data every time a shot is taken. (it turns out that plugging in a hundred and fifty USB anythings is a non-trivial setup We're working on a plan to do something similar with a bunch of old android phones. When you're sanding the models, do you just hit the large, flatter areas? I haven't tried yet, but I imagine it's tough to get in all the nooks without destroying things.
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May 25, 2016 13:45
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Google Butt posted:I'm going to grab the Prusa i3 MK2.. now my only decision is kit or assembled. I'm fairly confident I can built that kit, but I'm not familiar with how easy they are to gently caress up when you're assembling them. What material are you planning to print in. Most 3D printing for small multirotors I've seen these days is accessories in tpu
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May 25, 2016 14:53
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A Yolo Wizard posted:What material are you planning to print in. Most 3D printing for small multirotors I've seen these days is accessories in tpu Tpu. The mk2 uses the e3d v6full hotend, which from my research should get hot enough.
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May 25, 2016 16:16
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Hillridge posted:We're working on a plan to do something similar with a bunch of old android phones. Yup, gotta use hand sanding or small tools for those areas. We have a lot of things that look like dental tools, except that they're ridged for sanding. Plus we have ZBrush artists who will thicken/move stray fingers or heels, or construct proper glasses and whatnot
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May 25, 2016 16:32
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What program do you guys suggest I start with? Do any of these cad programs have a noob friendly u.i.?
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May 25, 2016 17:16
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I use onshape for modeling. Tinkercad is easy and let's you modify STL files, but complex objects are a pain to do with it.
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May 25, 2016 17:19
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Google Butt posted:What program do you guys suggest I start with? Do any of these cad programs have a noob friendly u.i.? Use the hobbyist/startup license for Fusion360 and work your way through the tutorials and Youtube videos they post. It's pretty much the best all-around parametric software that's free other than OnShape. Here's a good primer video to give you an idea of what you'll be getting into. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6JOPdu2-NA
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May 25, 2016 17:20
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tinkerCAD. It's surprisingly powerful but very easy to get into.
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May 25, 2016 17:20
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Wade Wilson posted:Use the hobbyist/startup license for Fusion360 and work your way through the tutorials and Youtube videos they post. It's pretty much the best all-around parametric software that's free other than OnShape. Is that hobbyist license still available? I didn't see it
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May 25, 2016 17:21
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If I remember, the hobbyist license for F360 is a checkbox after you install. 123D is beginner-mode Fusion360. I like it a lot, and hopefully it'll ease the transition to F360 if I ever want more power.
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May 25, 2016 18:28
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Google Butt posted:Is that hobbyist license still available? I didn't see it It's an option you pick during the installation. Good for a year, and as long as you make less than $100k using the software you can just re-up every year with the same license.
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May 25, 2016 18:33
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Google Butt posted:I'm going to grab the Prusa i3 MK2.. now my only decision is kit or assembled. I'm fairly confident I can built that kit, but I'm not familiar with how easy they are to gently caress up when you're assembling them. Kit was the smart choice. I loving love my i3, it's a lovely acrylic one but it's been a workhorse. It's surprisingly solid once I anchored it to the desk with a single clamp on the back part of the Y axis. I broke one acrylic piece on mine when I overtightened a bolt, but I epoxy'd it back together and it's been fine for a year+ since.
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May 25, 2016 19:26
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bring back old gbs posted:Kit was the smart choice. I loving love my i3, it's a lovely acrylic one but it's been a workhorse. It's surprisingly solid once I anchored it to the desk with a single clamp on the back part of the Y axis. I broke one acrylic piece on mine when I overtightened a bolt, but I epoxy'd it back together and it's been fine for a year+ since. Awesome. Everyone seems to love the mk1 so I'm hopeful about the mk2. What's up with solidworks? Is it really that good for 3d printing to justify the cost over the other options?
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May 25, 2016 19:39
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Google Butt posted:What's up with solidworks? Is it really that good for 3d printing to justify the cost over the other options? If you know how to use it already and have more money than sense, then maybe. For a parametric modeling package, Fusion360 will cover 99% of your needs.
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May 25, 2016 19:55
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SolidWorks is loving awesome. Get the student edition (  )OnShape is annoying on the notion that it still doesn't do infinite length construction lines. That and its mating system.
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May 25, 2016 23:12
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So we got a wombot modus in at work which is a 400x400x500mm build space printer that comes pre assembled Check out the slop in the z/x bar bearing https://youtu.be/3vqW6BQB8co The bearings are held by 2 nylon topped nuts that are not actually holding the inner race in place and it can shift by a large margin When i sent the supplier that video they had the nerv to tell me thats totally normal and not a problem....
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May 26, 2016 00:33
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I want to try open scad, but 
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May 26, 2016 00:39
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Scarecow posted:When i sent the supplier that video they had the nerv to tell me thats totally normal and not a problem.... At least it will be forgiving if you crash the print head. Does it take much force to rock it back and forth? If it has a fair bit of resistance it wont have that big of an impact on printing. Fixing would likely still get better print quality though.
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May 26, 2016 01:01
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torpedan posted:At least it will be forgiving if you crash the print head. Does it take much force to rock it back and forth? If it has a fair bit of resistance it wont have that big of an impact on printing. Fixing would likely still get better print quality though. Oh it takes zero effort at all to get that free play going,the nuts are not even holding the bearings tight
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May 26, 2016 01:04
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Scarecow posted:So we got a wombot modus in at work which is a 400x400x500mm build space printer that comes pre assembled http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533472 Grab the Z resonance file and see how it does and send that to them?
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May 26, 2016 01:23
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ImplicitAssembler posted:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533472 Turns out its the 608zz bearings they are using, a hilarious amout of radial axel movement, need to hunt some deep roller bearings now
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May 26, 2016 03:51
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quote:When i sent the supplier that video they had the nerv to tell me thats totally normal and not a problem. Solid candidate for a new thread title right there.
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May 26, 2016 09:08
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Google Butt posted:
Grossly overpriced to use purely for 3d print design work. If you already have it for other stuff (like you do designwork for a living), fine. But it is absolutely not worth the outlay of money for someone getting into 3d printing when Onshape and Fusion360 exist. Same story for Rhino or any other CAD package that costs money. EDIT: 99% of the people that suggest Solidworks for 3d printing are either people that already have it because they make their living with it, or they pirated it.
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May 26, 2016 12:14
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I'm a former Autodesk Inventor junkie but I'm squarely on the onshape bandwagon now, the few criticisms I have are trivial and mostly to do with my personal workflow rather than the modelling tools. I'm really excited to see where it's going too, it's in a very active state of development right now and user requests and bug reports are answered in good time by real people.
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May 26, 2016 13:40
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