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I said gently caress it and just drove it home, pumped the brakes a bit here and there. The squeak went away and the rotor wasnt abnormally hot when I got home. Its my fiances car and she drives like .3 miles a day, so I will get to replacing the calipers when I get back from vacation the week after next. Thanks for the help guys.
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Mar 28, 2016 00:42
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I'm attempting to replace the parking shoes for my in-laws on their 2003 dodge dakota. All the dakota rear brake videos i found on youtube must have been of vehicles with normal drum brakes, because all of them looked more complicated than this setup here. This looks so simple it's making me feel like i'm missing something. Do i just pop off the two clips, dial the adjuster in a little, and pop off that bottom spring? The mechanism that's hooked up to the parking brake cable is at the top, and i'm worried some spring loaded bullshit is going to fly off when i remove the shoes, but it looks like that upper spring acts as a return and the actuator is just a lever. Should i smear some high temp grease on that actuator when i get the shoes off?   
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Mar 28, 2016 02:35
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I've acquired a petrol powered air compressor, it has what appears to be an ohc 150cc honda single. I want to use the compressor in a somewhat indoor setting and I want to extend the stubby exhaust pipe it's got by like a meter using some sort of flexible pipe I can flop out of the way when I'm not using it. The exhaust is about 26mm od. Is there such a thing as exhaust temperature resistant flexible piping of some kind that I can hoseclamp on there? welding on a solid stretch of exhaust isn't an option.
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Mar 28, 2016 02:35
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Nevermind
theres a will theres moe fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Mar 28, 2016 |
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Mar 28, 2016 03:43
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Slavvy posted:I've acquired a petrol powered air compressor, it has what appears to be an ohc 150cc honda single. I want to use the compressor in a somewhat indoor setting and I want to extend the stubby exhaust pipe it's got by like a meter using some sort of flexible pipe I can flop out of the way when I'm not using it. The exhaust is about 26mm od. Is there such a thing as exhaust temperature resistant flexible piping of some kind that I can hoseclamp on there? welding on a solid stretch of exhaust isn't an option. Plymovent would have a solution but it likely wouldn't be cheap.
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Mar 28, 2016 04:25
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Slavvy posted:I've acquired a petrol powered air compressor, it has what appears to be an ohc 150cc honda single. I want to use the compressor in a somewhat indoor setting and I want to extend the stubby exhaust pipe it's got by like a meter using some sort of flexible pipe I can flop out of the way when I'm not using it. The exhaust is about 26mm od. Is there such a thing as exhaust temperature resistant flexible piping of some kind that I can hoseclamp on there? welding on a solid stretch of exhaust isn't an option. Whatever you do, please have a shitload of ventilation in this "indoor" setting. There are a lot of idiots who died of carbon monoxide poisoning doing exactly what you are asking about.
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Mar 28, 2016 05:10
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Seems like it'd be a better idea to put it outside with a junction in the wall that you can connect the hoses to. Or something.
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Mar 28, 2016 05:42
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200 feet of air hose is comparatively cheap
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Mar 28, 2016 08:45
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Jeff Gerber posted:I'm attempting to replace the parking shoes for my in-laws on their 2003 dodge dakota. All the dakota rear brake videos i found on youtube must have been of vehicles with normal drum brakes, because all of them looked more complicated than this setup here. This looks so simple it's making me feel like i'm missing something. If you want to wind the adjuster out a bit, get it cleaned/greased, and wound back in, I can't see that hurting anything, but I've never found much need to grease anything else.
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Mar 28, 2016 13:49
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InitialDave posted:From what I'm looking at, basically, yes, that's how those types have been when I've worked on them. Thanks Dave.
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Mar 28, 2016 15:50
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My wife needs to replace her car and wants to stick with the Ford Escape size of utility vehicle. Are there any cars in that range I should look at other than the Escape and any to strictly avoid? Or what's a good resource for this kind of question?
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Mar 28, 2016 16:47
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The latest Subaru Outback and Forester are both approximately Escape sized. Likewise every crossover from every manufacturer.
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Mar 28, 2016 18:59
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I am having the toughest time trying to find a replacement bulb for the dash in my 2006 hyundai elantra. It's one that goes behind the gas gauge. I've tried looking it up but the manual is next to useless. I've tried both a 74 and 37 but they're just slightly too big. I've been trying to look at different bulb types but I have not gotten anywhere so far. So, I'm wondering if there's a bulb type that's even smaller than 74/37 that this could possibly be? I tried shoving the larger bulbs in but then the mount will not fit into the socket on the PCB and if they're not seated down far enough, they won't make contact and won't turn on. 
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Mar 28, 2016 19:22
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That's almost undoubtedly a 194.
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Mar 28, 2016 19:30
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Everything should be 194 or 2721.
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Mar 28, 2016 19:36
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Geoj posted:That's almost undoubtedly a 194. It's much smaller. It's about 4mm in diameter.
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Mar 28, 2016 19:37
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Godholio posted:Seems like it'd be a better idea to put it outside with a junction in the wall that you can connect the hoses to. Or something. It's in the back of a large van. I'll have the doors etc open but I want to be extra safe and evacuate the exhaust directly to the outside world, hence my need for a meter long hose I can route out the side door or whatever.
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Mar 28, 2016 19:38
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I need replacement upper control arms for a Lexus LS400. Any brand particularly bad / good between AC Delco, Raybestos, Dorman, Beckarnley, Mas Industries, and OES genuine? I'm inclined to avoid OES genuine just because they sound like they're trying to trick people into thinking they're OEM parts.
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Mar 28, 2016 20:46
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The car is a 2003 Lancer OZ with ~197k miles. This has been an on and off issue since Sept last year. It'll go through periods where deeply mashing the accelerator or trying to get up to highway speeds will cause RPMs to drop out on my car, though I can ease up to highway speed fine. I will intermittently get codes for warmup cat. I had a code for the EGR which went away before I got to do anything on it. Today, I had a code for the tps, egr, and multimisfire that caused the cel to light. It's not the transmission, as it does it in park too. Idle seems fine. This is what I've done so far since Sept:
I plan to get an oil change tomorrow at work, and they offer a fuel injector service for $10 right now with high mileage changes that has something thru vacuum lines and a gas additive, so I figure I'll try it for $2 more than Seafoam. I'm not sure where to go from here. My gut is leaning injectors or Fuel pump at this point, but I'm learning as I go. I can get parts pretty cheap as long as its not the actual engine as the junkyard got a 02 lancer with snapped timing belt a week or so ago.
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Mar 29, 2016 01:12
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signalnoise posted:My wife needs to replace her car and wants to stick with the Ford Escape size of utility vehicle. Are there any cars in that range I should look at other than the Escape and any to strictly avoid? Or what's a good resource for this kind of question? Hyundai Tuscon is reviewing well after the looks updated
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Mar 29, 2016 01:52
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ruarc posted:The car is a 2003 Lancer OZ with ~197k miles. How long has it been since the fuel filter was changed? Also, a bad TPS will absolutely cause severe drivability issues, so if you've got a TPS code.... well that and a new fuel filter (if it has one) are the best places to start. Fuel pump would be my next guess, but you should be able to rule that out if you can attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail.
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Mar 29, 2016 05:37
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some texas redneck posted:Fuel pump would be my next guess, but you should be able to rule that out if you can attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail. Change the filter first.
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Mar 29, 2016 05:58
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Godholio posted:Change the filter first. This was the line above the line you quoted: some texas redneck posted:How long has it been since the fuel filter was changed?  edit: VVVV you do have a point... randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Mar 29, 2016 |
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Mar 29, 2016 06:14
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Right, because this is the thread where people follow advice in order.
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Mar 29, 2016 06:25
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That car doesn't have an inline fuel filter. Seconding the advice to grab a fuel pressure tester. If you do need a new fuel pump, grab the stainer as well. Edit: Also, was the misfire being reported on multiple sensors or just one? Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 07:47 on Mar 29, 2016 |
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Mar 29, 2016 07:39
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Disclaimer: I know just enough about cars to get myself in trouble. My mom just gave me her old 2007 Prius. She bought a new car about a year ago and the Prius hasn't been driven much since. In January she noticed that it was dead and called AAA (she calls AAA for everything, she is terrified of touching anything besides the steering wheel) who jumped it and ran some diagnostics, said everything (including the battery) looked fine. I don't know if battery is in the singular because they only checked one of the two that priuses have, or because my mom doesn't understand what happened and messed up in relaying the story. I picked it up from her yesterday and we had to jump it. No response from anything before the jump (had to manually unlock, no dash lights blinking, nothing) We let it run while we loaded bags and stuff into it (10 minutes or so) and then turned it off. We had to jump it again, but this time we could get the dash to light up before the jump. Some guide we looked up said that after a Prius battery drain you should keep it on for 8 hours. Luckily we had a 5 hour drive ahead of us, and I could waste a little more time after. Mid-drive we stopped to eat for about 20 minutes, car started fine. I probably ran it for six hours, then turned it off and back on. It didn't need a jump but all of a sudden the Park button wouldn't activate the parking brake, and I got a big red warning light, along with some text that the transmission couldn't activate the brake (I guess it does that in a Prius?) and that I would have to do it manually, so I did. 24 hours later I hopped back in and had to jump it again. Before the jump it would turn on in a bizarre manner where all the lights on the dash would flash for a while, then stay solid while the gas gauge would flash that it was empty (it definitely wasn't, there was a quarter tank or so). Everything in the car seemed to work okay (including the Park button, which magically fixed itself) but the MPH gauge wouldn't show up and the gas engine wouldn't do a drat thing. It jumped in about four seconds. Drove it for half an hour, turned it off for five minutes, it was dead again. Same dash light flashing, same "empty" gas tank. This time I had no jump available, but after ten minutes of loving around (looking for the second battery Priuses apparently have in the trunk) I tried to start it on a whim and it turned on fine. Went on a long drive, turned it off to get gas, it turned back on fine. Three hours later my gf and I go to get back in it, same drat problem. I tell her "just wait, if I keep the dash lights on for a couple minutes it will work for no reason." I was right. While I was turning it on and off while waiting, there was a loud clicking noise from the rear of the car (somewhere around the rear battery I think). It only happened when I held down the engine button. When the engine finally started the same noise clicked in the back, so it seems to happen in good times and bad. My best guess is that one battery has recharged just fine, but the other one either needs way more juice or a replacement, and while I gently caress around turning the dash on and off the good battery is charging the dead one. Is this reasonable? Do you all know anything about this? It seems to be improving each time, in that I don't have to jump it any more, but waiting 10 minutes to start your car sucks. Edit: I would consider a trickle charger but my apartment parking lot is a miserable gravel pit and there is nowhere in that anarchy to plug anything in. Samfucius fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Mar 29, 2016 |
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Mar 29, 2016 07:57
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That should have been plenty to recharge the batteries. I'd guess the 12V auxiliary battery - which is what powers the electronics whenever it's not being driven - is done. That battery is in the rear under the cargo floor. Lead acid batteries - the kind of battery used in most cars, and the type of battery used for the 12V stuff in the Prius - don't handle being fully discharged very well at all. The traction battery likely never fully discharged, and should probably be fine, but that battery doesn't power the electronics. http://priusdiy.com/tutorials/MFD/12vbatterycheck.html shows how to get a voltage reading from the car,
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Mar 29, 2016 08:28
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Samfucius posted:Disclaimer: I know just enough about cars to get myself in trouble. Your Prius has a small 12v battery in the right side panel of the trunk. Those symptoms are typical of 12v battery failure. This battery is about the size of a 51 battery from a Honda car - but the terminals are smaller. The 12v battery runs the dash, lights, locks, most everything but the drivetrain. It also closes the big contactors/relays under the rear seat which attach the high voltage battery to the rest of the system.
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Mar 29, 2016 13:17
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Elmnt80 posted:That car doesn't have an inline fuel filter. Seconding the advice to grab a fuel pressure tester. If you do need a new fuel pump, grab the stainer as well. Mechanic said just multi-misfire. I'm gonna do that fuel system cleaning before taking out the backseat for the fuel pump.  Is the fuel pressure test something I can do or do I need to take it to a mechanic?
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Mar 29, 2016 13:57
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0toShifty posted:Your Prius has a small 12v battery in the right side panel of the trunk. Those symptoms are typical of 12v battery failure. This battery is about the size of a 51 battery from a Honda car - but the terminals are smaller. Is this a replacement I could easily do myself? Would I need any tools more complicated or specialized than a screwdriver?
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Mar 29, 2016 14:09
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Samfucius posted:Is this a replacement I could easily do myself? Would I need any tools more complicated or specialized than a screwdriver? It is a bit involved on a 2nd gen Prius. It's on the right side of the trunk, near the spare.  Here's a video of a pro technician changing one in less than 5 minutes - but she's got power tools. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rRM2Yyr5wU So you're going to need a 10mm and 14mm socket - and a long extension. Anyway - here's a detailed how-to: http://priusdiy.com/tutorials/interior/12vBatteryReplacement.html
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Mar 29, 2016 14:40
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I know she's flat rate and is just knocking out a 0.3 hour job in 0.1 hours, but I appreciate the perceived disdain with which she treats the Prius.
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Mar 29, 2016 15:23
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What car warranty would you guys recommend me getting with a 2013 Toyota Prius? What's the best bang for my buck?
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Mar 29, 2016 17:34
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None of them. Stick the money in a savings account.
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Mar 29, 2016 18:48
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ruarc posted:The car is a 2003 Lancer OZ with ~197k miles. CEL came back on. P0421 and p0300.
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Mar 29, 2016 19:58
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punk rebel ecks posted:What car warranty would you guys recommend me getting with a 2013 Toyota Prius? What's the best bang for my buck? Either the Toyota platinum VSA or nothing. And that's only if it's a Toyota "certified" used Prius. Otherwise no third party warranty is worth a cent.
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Mar 29, 2016 21:21
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Why is the warranty not worth anything?
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Mar 29, 2016 22:15
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On average, they cost more money than they save. Third party warranties will go to considerable lengths to avoid paying out. They are not a tightly regulated market like health insurance; they exist to separate the gullible from their money.
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Mar 29, 2016 22:19
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Warranty =throw 50-100 bucks a month into a cardboard box and use it for repairs that come down the road. Or a bank I guess if you're into such things.
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Mar 29, 2016 22:31
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2000 Nissan Quest with a shitload of miles on it and no service history. There are two main issues which seem to be related. The lesser of them is that after driving for a minute or so, the rpm will fluctuate at idle like it's getting ready to stall. Revving it in neutral doesn't help at all. I've checked for a vacuum leak but the troubleshooting I've done so far hasn't confirmed it. The bigger issue is that the car will occasionally completely lose throttle while at speed, but if you bring it to a complete stop for several seconds it comes back as though there was nothing wrong. This seems to be happening every three weeks or so. The check engine light is on, obviously, but the code reader port doesn't seem to be functional; or it's just too old to support my bluetooth reader. Anyone have ideas/further questions?
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Mar 29, 2016 23:02
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