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darkbob87 posted:Is it extensive? Or should a quick 10-mile trip down the freeway do the trick? I've put 75ish miles on the car since switching out the sensor but it's all been city mileage - nothing on the freeway. The dealer charged me 45 bucks to do it. It was stupid, but whatever, I didn't have to worry about picking it up, driving it around, and going back without it resetting. So I got my AVH-3300BT today. Went ahead and installed it too. Busy week and traveling to NJ on the weekend, so I wanted it ready and tonight was my best chance. I was going to take pics and do a whole walk through, but it's winter and dark outside, so I did the whole thing with a flash light and didn't bother with any guides. Just need to run the mic and I'm all done.
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Feb 8, 2011 08:12
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bull3964 posted:Here's a good general outline generic for most cars (it's not exhaustive and could vary by make or model.) As you can see, depending on your driving habits, you may never satisfy some of these conditions in daily driving. So, and please correct me if I misunderstand, if I hop on the freeway and keep it above 60 for some period of time, I should be able to forgo all of the above steps?
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Feb 8, 2011 12:08
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darkbob87 posted:So, and please correct me if I misunderstand, if I hop on the freeway and keep it above 60 for some period of time, I should be able to forgo all of the above steps? No, it means if you hop on the freeway and go above 60, it will stop running the diagnostic checks and there will still be readiness monitors that haven't completed.
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Feb 8, 2011 14:18
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bull3964 posted:Who's idea was that? WOW that's a massive pain in the rear end.
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Feb 8, 2011 17:34
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Amandyke posted:Who's idea was that? WOW that's a massive pain in the rear end. 99% of the time though it's transparent to the driver. It's not like people pull their battery all that often and chances are you'll satisfy those drive cycles at one point or another during the course of normal driving.
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Feb 8, 2011 17:55
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Anybody got a recommendation for a wideband O2 sensor? I've been meaning to get a kit to properly tune my car but I've been putting it off for 6mo. I'd rather buy a kit and tune it myself than pay a shop $200 and then pay them again if I change anything (I enjoy learning, too). What AFRs do shops typically tune a 2.0 WRX to (stock turbo)? As long as I'm running a decent AFR (11-12:1?) I shouldn't have to worry about too high of an EGT right? (Currently running 91oct OTS OSECU.org map, using 93 octane tho). Also, I've been having an issue where under high load (4th-5th gear) at full boost I'm seeing a variance of 15-17psi at WOT. Should I add an MBC to leak this off once it hits 15-16 or so?
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Feb 9, 2011 02:31
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AEM or Innovate.
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Feb 9, 2011 03:21
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My tuner uses an Innovate LC-1.
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Feb 9, 2011 06:02
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Sweet! the crazy stupid guy finally realized he's not selling his STi Muffler for $150. I'm getting it for $85 on Friday. Will I need a new gasket for the muffler? If so, I'm going to install it myself Saturday and get some footage for a before and after. Also, should I grab a K&N Box filter, or is the paper one making big difference?
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Feb 9, 2011 13:55
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bull3964 posted:gently caress underbody covers. I know it will be quicker the next time I do it since I'll be used to it, but it took me nearly 3x as long to change the oil screwing around with that thing. I will say though that the underside of my engine IS nice and clean even though this winter. Speaking of underbody covers.. guy at the shop I take my '05 Saabaru to mentioned to me that the heads of most of the bolts holding my underbody cover on have snapped off and it is primarily being held in place by plastic clips. I don't know much about the design of the cover and being basically a total newbie when it comes to car stuff, didn't realize my car had an underbody cover in the first place. I'm guessing that it isn't something I want falling off of my car though, what should I do about fixing this? And how much protection does the underbody cover actually afford the car?
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Feb 9, 2011 13:59
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Parker Lewis posted:Speaking of underbody covers.. guy at the shop I take my '05 Saabaru to mentioned to me that the heads of most of the bolts holding my underbody cover on have snapped off and it is primarily being held in place by plastic clips. I don't know much about the design of the cover and being basically a total newbie when it comes to car stuff, didn't realize my car had an underbody cover in the first place. I'm guessing that it isn't something I want falling off of my car though, what should I do about fixing this? And how much protection does the underbody cover actually afford the car? You might have to extract a lot of bolts, though - I know a few guys here have rounded the heads off the bolts when trying to remove the old skid plate. I think I got lucky.
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Feb 9, 2011 16:22
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I'm looking at buying another FXT, as my old one is totaled. (Hit a snowbank at just the right angle and it tipped my car over) I found a good deal on one locally, owned by an older guy who has maintained the car perfectly besides that he didn't run synthetic oil because "he didn't see the benefit". I know that's pretty bad news for the turbo, but I have a VF39 sitting in my garage that I'd be putting in regardless. How bad is running non-synthetic for the rest of the motor? At this point the car has 114k miles on it. Sorry if this is opening a can of worms.
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Feb 9, 2011 19:10
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I can't speak specifically to how it affects Subarus, but I know that Mazda has recommended natural oil for their turbo motors in the past (according to them, it's because they don't want to/have not tested synthetic). I'd do a compression and leakdown test as part of the pre-purchase inspection.
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Feb 9, 2011 19:12
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FecalFajita posted:I found a good deal on one locally, owned by an older guy who has maintained the car perfectly besides that he didn't run synthetic oil because "he didn't see the benefit". Makes no difference what-so-ever. And get some snow tires for this new FXT.
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Feb 9, 2011 21:00
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This is my good week! I just got a set of front and rear STi sway bars for $40! 
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Feb 9, 2011 22:53
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toplitzin posted:This is my good week! Okay what the hell now I need in on this crap.
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Feb 9, 2011 23:16
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Do STi sways swap over to the wagon?
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Feb 9, 2011 23:26
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Do STi sways swap over to the wagon? No, they don't. Good thing I only found them, and not purchased them. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18688733 toplitzin fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Feb 10, 2011 |
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Feb 9, 2011 23:51
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yeah swaybar fitment is kind of weird. Front 02-07 wrx sedan and 07 sti have the same front bar. The 04-06 sti bar is a little different because they have high caster control arms. The wagon front bar is narrower, but the wrx wagon and sedan and GC rear bars are the same. The sti has a different rear swaybar because of the lateral links and endlinks, which is the same as a forester XT. The 08-10 wrx and 05-09 LGT use the same front swaybar, but the sti and '11 wrx have a different one. In the rear, the 08+ imprezas wrx and sti and 2010+ lgt use the same swaybar. Turbo and non-turbo front bars are also different across all models/years. jamal fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Feb 10, 2011 |
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Feb 10, 2011 00:32
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I'm supposed to be taking the "Saabaru of Mystery" (tm) to a friend's bodyshop tomorrow to get an estimate on repairing the hail damage. Taking bets right now on how bad it's going to be. I'd like to at least get the hood repaired, but I might go for the whole shebang if it isn't too bad. Besides that, my other projects I'm looking at getting done is a new set of non-bent wheels and figuring out why my dome light is out. From reading the previous owner's posts on 92x.com, it seems that one of the door switches is possibly broken and he disabled the domelight. The bulb is ok but I'm guessing he cut the wire somewhere. 
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Feb 10, 2011 00:38
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Just found a 2003 Legacy, 5 speed manual with just over 100k miles for $4300. drat you U.S. government for making me wait to file my tax returns until Feb 15th
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Feb 10, 2011 03:44
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99 Forester: What's a ballpark on a timing belt replacement and is the water pump also recommended at the same time? 105K mi. (GF's car)
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Feb 10, 2011 16:24
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Sten Freak posted:99 Forester: What's a ballpark on a timing belt replacement and is the water pump also recommended at the same time? 105K mi. (GF's car) 105k mi. Yes.
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Feb 10, 2011 17:23
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Timing belt, tensioner, and water pump at the dealer, parts and labor, will usually run between $800-$900. I'm going to be tackling the timing belt on my WRX pretty soon here myself. I've had all the parts for awhile, I just got to get around to doing it. Water pump isn't strictly necessary. Conventional wisdom tells you to replace it while you are in there to save on labor (either your own time or $$) but at the same time a water pump failure on a Subaru is a exceedingly rare thing. That said, I am going to replace mine while I'm in there. I would be lying though if I said I didn't feel hesitant about it. There's always the possibility that replacing it could cause more problems than leaving it be (snap a bolt, don't get it sealed well, manufacturing defect in the replacement.) bull3964 fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Feb 10, 2011 |
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Feb 10, 2011 17:49
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bull3964 posted:I'm going to be tackling the timing belt on my WRX pretty soon here myself. I've had all the parts for awhile, I just got to get around to doing it. It's pretty easy. Toughest part is getting the timing belt onto four cam gears in the right spot.
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Feb 10, 2011 17:51
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Blaise posted:It's pretty easy. Toughest part is getting the timing belt onto four cam gears in the right spot. Yeah, Meatbawl on NASIOC actually did a great series of videos going step by step so I'm confident in doing it. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2111702 I've mostly been waiting for the weather to straighten out. I can do it inside so working conditions aren't strictly the issue. But I have a list of other things I want to do to the '02 at the same time and I didn't want to park the '11 outside while we are having single digit temps or snow/ice.
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Feb 10, 2011 17:56
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I'm starting to think about purchasing a new (used) car that's a bit more mountain/dirt/snow friendly than my Miata, but with sacrificing as little driving fun and handling as possible. Perhaps unsurprisingly, my mind keeps coming back to a WRX (or maybe, but probably unlikely, an STi). I know that a used WRX can be a huge gamble, but I'm willing to at least consider it. I've been trying to research and read a lot about the WRX and the Impreza in general, but I haven't found a good single source that has the breakdown of the good/bad/ugly per model year, and a checklist of specific things to look for when checking out a WRX. I'm sure something like this exists, but I've been unsuccessful in sorting through all the crap as of yet. I haven't gone out and driven any yet as I'm still just researching, but what's your guys' opinion on what the "best" years of a US-spec WRX are, as far as the blend of power/handling/comfort/reliability go? I don't expect the ride quality or interior materials of a Bentley (I'm coming from a Miata, afterall), but I do expect good responsiveness and tight handling without a bone-rattling ride. My own reading seems to indicate that 2004-2007 are probably going to be my best bets, but any thoughts? Guinness fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Feb 10, 2011 |
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Feb 10, 2011 20:24
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Honestly, the only year that stands out as "bad" is the '08s because they were shafted on power and there were some early '09 VINs that had catastrophic engine failure due to their blocks not being clean at assembly. The WRX has been a remarkably stable car from it's introduction for the '02 model year until now. There have been some minor tweaks here and there, but no one year stands out as having huge issues. 2002-2007 are all pretty much the same car. 2006 saw the introduction of the 2.5L engine so it's character is a bit different. There aren't huge changes in power, but the curve is pretty different. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Impreza_WRX#US-spec This goes over the changes pretty well. I think IF I would have to choose one year from that generation, it would be the 2006. It has the 2.5L engine and the aluminum suspension bits that they removed the next year. It also has a faster steering rack than previous years. The braking system also got upgrades. Honestly though, they all "feel" pretty much the same. My '11 is more powerful, handles better, rides better, and is quieter than my '02 to be sure. However, it still feels like pretty much the same car. I get the same character out of it. I felt comfortable driving it from mile 1. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Feb 10, 2011 |
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Feb 10, 2011 20:35
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http://www.cars101.com/ This is also a good site to see year for year changes.
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Feb 10, 2011 20:40
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Guinness posted:I'm starting to think about purchasing a new (used) car that's a bit more mountain/dirt/snow friendly than my Miata, but with sacrificing as little driving fun and handling as possible. Perhaps unsurprisingly, my mind keeps coming back to a WRX (or maybe, but probably unlikely, an STi). I know that a used WRX can be a huge gamble, but I'm willing to at least consider it. It's a GREAT combo to have a WRX wagon and miata.  I strongly recommend the wagon. Pick any year, they're all great, just make sure it hasn't been modified/abused. During the summer I love swapping between the cars: WRX: Roof Meh Handling (compared to miata, still good) Big (relatively) Power Haul Crap Quiet Miata: No Roof Amazing Handling No (relatively) Power No Space Loud It's just a total awesome shift going from one to the other.
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Feb 10, 2011 20:47
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I figure I might as well bring this up: we've been having a pretty cold winter around these parts, and with it has come a few engine failures from freezing the PCV or the PCV lines. If you skipped replacing your PCV at the last service and it gets really drat cold where you are, you should consider replacing it. Also, don't be like me and just order the PCV itself from the dealer; they're hard to get out of the fitting inside the PCV assembly hose without tearing it. Order the entire assembly and swap it. If your intercooler is just too drat good at cooling and may freeze your PCV lines shut when you are cruising on the highway like just happened with a stage rally car, shops around here are suggesting that you consider some kind of heated AOS like the Crawford unit. bull3964 posted:I think IF I would have to choose one year from that generation, it would be the 2006. It has the 2.5L engine and the aluminum suspension bits that they removed the next year. It also has a faster steering rack than previous years. The braking system also got upgrades. Note that if you buy an 06 wagon, you will not get the aluminum control arms. This is something I found out the hard way.  The 06 has a push-type instead of pull-type clutch, as opposed to every previous generation of USDM WRX; I'm not sure if they retained this afterward, but I know it's not the case on the 04-07 STI at least. As compared to the 2.0L models, the 2.5L models have a tougher first-gear synchro and some other transmission work which, while not perfect, will help keep your gearbox alive a little longer. One of the downsides is that it appears that the stock 2006 clutch gets chewed up very early in the car's life; I don't have any knowledge if this was fixed in 07. The USDM 06 is one of the best turbo Subarus you can get. The brakes alone (4-pot front, 2-pot rear) are phenomenal and are a sought-after upgrade for people doing stage rally who want to run smaller wheels than what the STI Brembos allow. The 08 also got shafted in terms of suspension and other mounts; most of the bushings on it are much lower-grade than the 07 or the 09, the liquid-filled motor mounts are questionable at best, the suspension isn't stiff enough and the swaybars are too small. All of this stuff got corrected in 09. Note that for 09 in Canada, we actually forked the WRX into two models: the WRX224 and WRX265, both of which had manual transmission options (unlike the US, where the 224bhp, TD04-boosted engine was retained only an automatic-only "Impreza GT"). This was corrected in MY2010. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Feb 10, 2011 |
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Feb 10, 2011 20:49
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bull3964 posted:Timing belt, tensioner, and water pump at the dealer, parts and labor, will usually run between $800-$900.
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Feb 10, 2011 21:17
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Blaise posted:It's a GREAT combo to have a WRX wagon and miata. Believe me, if I could presently have two cars, I would. But I live in a dense urban area and I only have one parking spot in my garage. I could afford the two cars, but I just wouldn't have any place to put the second one at the moment. Which is also why I'm in no rush to buy a new car here, as I want it to be something I love as much as my Miata (which is a lot). It's just I've been getting far more active and outdoorsy than I was when I bought my Miata 4 years ago, and it's been a trooper on some of the roads and conditions I've put it through, but it's getting to the point where I just need something more capable on crappy forest roads and mountain passes. Also, the ability to carry more than 2 people and a backpack... Seat Safety Switch posted:A lot of stuff was changed after the 06. The gear ratios were changed, the car went to canbus and a lot of aluminum body parts (not just suspension) were replaced with steel, making the car heavier. Also, the stock 07 tune is leagues worse than the already-lean 06 tune, which means that a high mileage 07 that's been on the stock tune for a long time is likely to be in bad shape engine-wise. I'm probably leaning toward the wagon, but I'm not decided yet. It will also ultimately depend on the specific cars I look at and what kind of shape they're in. Does the wagon still have all the other aluminum bits, short of the control arms? How much difference in handling does the aluminum vs. steel control arms make? Seat Safety Switch posted:The 06 has a push-type instead of pull-type clutch, as opposed to every previous generation of USDM WRX; I'm not sure if they retained this afterward, but I know it's not the case on the 04-07 STI at least. What're the practical implications of this? I don't think I know the difference between push/pull-type clutches... Thanks for the responses guys, I'm definitely going to keep an eye on this thread and keep reading around for more info. I'm a little OCD when it comes to researching cars before I buy them. Guinness fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Feb 10, 2011 |
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Feb 10, 2011 21:24
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Guinness posted:I'm probably leaning toward the wagon, but I'm not decided yet. It will also ultimately depend on the specific cars I look at and what kind of shape they're in. Does the wagon still have all the other aluminum bits, short of the control arms? How much difference in handling does the aluminum vs. steel control arms make? You can always buy GC chassis aluminum control arms and fit them onto a wagon later, though they have a premium as well. edit: Note that there's a reason these are different - the sedan track of the GD (02-07) WRX/STI is wider than the wagon track. That means that you're looking at different lower control arms, front swaybars, etc between wagon and sedan. Wider is better, but I don't think there are a lot of sedan WRX owners who have moved two fully assembled bookshelves at once. quote:What're the practical implications of this? I don't think I know the difference between push/pull-type clutches... quote:I'm a little OCD when it comes to researching cars before I buy them. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Feb 10, 2011 |
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Feb 10, 2011 21:31
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The utility of the wagon far outweighs the material of your control arms. Trust me! Wagon wagon wagon wagon wagon wagon wagon!!!!! If you *have* to get rid of your miata (which sucks), you'll still be okay. A proper set of summer and winter tires, perhaps some stiffer suspension work and it'll be livable. I haven't really bothered on mine except for the basic power modifications because I have the miata for that.
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Feb 10, 2011 21:35
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Sten Freak posted:Thanks. Told her that if she's going to keep the car 2 years, maybe skip the water pump but if she's going to keep it longer than that, go ahead and get it done. I take it the tensioner is basically a must when you do the belt. no definitely don't skip the water pump. mine exploded at about 135k in my old legacy. gates makes a kit that has everything included for like $350-400
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Feb 10, 2011 21:43
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If you're only going to have one car I think the 06-07 WRX wagon is pretty drat close to a perfect all-around car. Fast, easy to make faster or handle better. Laughs at inclement weather. Can carry a ridiculous amount of stuff back from Ikea. Limiteds have the awesome heated wipers and mirrors, leather, sunroof, heated seats, etc... Can easily handle a trailer for moving or hauling brush to the dump. Small enough to deal with a tight urban environment without issue. WRX WAGON. DO IT.
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Feb 10, 2011 23:45
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:WRX WAGON. DO IT. It's certainly the front runner in my mind right now. An '06 WRX wagon, on paper, sounds like the perfect car for what I need... Now I need to get out and drive one and see how it feels.
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Feb 10, 2011 23:50
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Uh oh, a man in a brown truck stopped by today. What did he bring me? Presents!  .jpg) Click here for embiggening.
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Feb 11, 2011 02:14
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Guinness posted:It's certainly the front runner in my mind right now. An '06 WRX wagon, on paper, sounds like the perfect car for what I need... They're hard enough to find - I definitely wouldn't discount an '07.
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Feb 11, 2011 04:45
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