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Neddy Seagoon posted:I cant remember if this has already been announced yet so; there's an HG Crossbone X1 coming in November.  Hopefully this means the X-2 and X-3 aren't far behind.
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Aug 22, 2014 16:04
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gently caress Crossbone... Look at those loving awesome effect parts coming with Build Burning Gundam! 
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Aug 22, 2014 16:09
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Buy both, give the Crossbone fire pirate attacks.
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Aug 22, 2014 16:30
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Azubah posted:Buy both, give the Crossbone fire pirate attacks. Buy both, give Miss Sazabi the closest thing to an Inazuma Kick you can make with Gunpla.
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Aug 22, 2014 16:39
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TaurusOxford posted:gently caress Crossbone...  So loving glad I've already got this preordered!
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Aug 22, 2014 17:46
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I have a question about priming. I've seen in a few tutorials that priming is a good way to expose defects in the plastic, but I haven't seen any description on what I should do about those defects. Do I sand them down with high grit sandpaper and then add another coat of primer?
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Aug 22, 2014 18:49
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TheManSeries posted:Buy both, give Miss Sazabi the closest thing to an Inazuma Kick you can make with Gunpla. drat, the thing that will make me actually want the Build Burning. I really hope all 3 main units get MGs at some point, I adore the Powered GM Cardigan.
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Aug 22, 2014 19:35
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Dj Meow Mix posted:drat, the thing that will make me actually want the Build Burning. I really hope all 3 main units get MGs at some point, I adore the Powered GM Cardigan. That post was made while lovingly looking at the paint needed to convert my miss Sazabi into gun buster. I also really want MGs.
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Aug 22, 2014 20:00
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Dj Meow Mix posted:drat, the thing that will make me actually want the Build Burning. I really hope all 3 main units get MGs at some point, I adore the Powered GM Cardigan. They'll undoubtedly get MGs, but they probably won't show up as fast as the Season 1 kits did since Build Burning and GM Cardigan have no "origin" kit like Build Strike does. Lightning Gundam could maybe get away with using the ReZel frame, but all the outer armor is completely different.
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Aug 22, 2014 20:06
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peeNamaste posted:I have a question about priming. I've seen in a few tutorials that priming is a good way to expose defects in the plastic, but I haven't seen any description on what I should do about those defects. Do I sand them down with high grit sandpaper and then add another coat of primer? The idea behind doing this is to expose unfilled seam lines, minor scratches and surface irregularities which might be hard to see on unpainted plastic. Some modelers seem to do this by spraying full primer coats and sanding them down until any defects are filled, but I find this to be overkill: it costs more, it adds further steps to the messiest and most dangerous part of the build, and every coat of paint you apply to the model is going to fill in and soften surface detail. I like to take a more as-needed approach, eyeballing any potential trouble spots before painting and applying Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1000 directly from the bottle (usually with a toothpick, nothing fancy) to any sink marks, incomplete seams, etc. I sand these with a fine-grit paper so the surface is smooth, and generally use a sanding stick or something similar on flat surfaces so everything is uniform. This can encompass quite a few individual spots on the model — dozens if you're picky — but doing it this way you will probably only have to make one or two cleanup passes after the initial primer coat and can touch up that coat as needed rather than spraying it all again. For me, the biggest filling issue in any Gunpla kit is going to be sink marks: these are shallow surface depressions that really love to show up anytime there is a thick molding peg or socket on the other side of the part, and a typical snap-fit kit will have them in abundance all over the model. I alway cringe when I see a nicely painted kit with unfilled sink marks (it happens a lot) and if you're going for any kind of fine gloss finish filling them is absolutely essential. It's fussy work, kind of messy and a general pain in the rear end, but that describes almost everything in this hobby more advanced than "snap it together and put it on a shelf."
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Aug 22, 2014 21:36
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Bimmi posted:The idea behind doing this is to expose unfilled seam lines, minor scratches and surface irregularities which might be hard to see on unpainted plastic. Some modelers seem to do this by spraying full primer coats and sanding them down until any defects are filled, but I find this to be overkill: it costs more, it adds further steps to the messiest and most dangerous part of the build, and every coat of paint you apply to the model is going to fill in and soften surface detail. Okay cool. I was going to pick up some contour putty at the hobby shop today anyway, they have a few Gunze products so maybe they'll have Mr. Surfacer. Thanks!
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Aug 22, 2014 21:42
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TaurusOxford posted:They'll undoubtedly get MGs, but they probably won't show up as fast as the Season 1 kits did since Build Burning and GM Cardigan have no "origin" kit like Build Strike does. Lightning Gundam could maybe get away with using the ReZel frame, but all the outer armor is completely different. They'd probably all need new molds. The Cardigan could get away with being based on the RGM-79C GM Kai kit, but that Master Grade kit is twelve years old at this point. The Lightning Gundam, which is based on the ReGZ, would have to be built around a mold from 2001. A ReGZ 2.0 wouldn't be unwelcome either, though. For a minute there I forgot that suit even had a Master Grade. Or they could just cheap out on us and actually build them around said old molds. The HGUC Quebeley is honest to god 15 years old now and they remolded it for the BF line.
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Aug 22, 2014 21:51
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Again, if that's Testors contour putty don't waste your money. It has certain uses but none relevant to Gunpla in my experience. I don't use putty at all for cleanup, generally speaking. Mr. Surfacer is very thick and can be built up to an extent, and I find it sufficient for the bulk of my needs. For serious surface modification, you'll want to look into some good-quality polyester and epoxy putties (the former is easier to sand and carve, the latter is good where structural strength and hardness is desired) but try to stay away from cheap lacquer-based tube putty like Testors and Squadron, they're obsolete and kind of useless IMO. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Aug 22, 2014 |
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Aug 22, 2014 21:51
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Bimmi posted:Again, if that's Testors contour putty don't waste your money. It has certain uses but none relevant to Gunpla in my experience. I was going to use Tamiya, but I can't seem to find any information as to whether or not it's lacquer based. Would milliput be a better decision?
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Aug 22, 2014 22:26
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Tamiya used to be the best of the tube putties, but I have no idea if they still use the same formula or not. And it's still kind of limited in its uses. What do you want to do with the putty, exactly? Old-style filler putties hail from an era when even high-end model kits had terrible fit issues, with big gaps and badly misaligned assemblies being commonplace. This isn't really a thing at all with Gunpla, so putty is not really needed in that capacity. Putty is terrible for filling seams. Chances are it won't actually get into the seam and you'll just wind up sanding it all off. Using a liquid primer like Mr. Surfacer is much easier, less messy, and far more effective for filling small surface defects. The only time you're going to need putty IMO is when you want to significantly remodel a part, and whether you go for polyester or epoxy in that case depends on what your needs are (Milliput is epoxy, BTW, and dries rock-hard which is not always a good thing.)
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Aug 22, 2014 22:48
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Bimmi posted:Tamiya used to be the best of the tube putties, but I have no idea if they still use the same formula or not. And it's still kind of limited in its uses. Yeah I wanted it for filling seams. The shoulder on my Zaku has a big seam running down in and it's super noticeable even after sanding. I primed it, but it was spray primer so I guess that doesn't fill very well. I'll get a liquid primer. Thanks bruh.  Edit: My local shop has this.
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Aug 22, 2014 22:51
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http://gundamguy.blogspot.se/2014/07/hg-1144-g-arukein-new-images-release.html It seems like the g-arcane is getting two different color schemes.
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Aug 22, 2014 22:55
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peeNamaste posted:Edit: My local shop has this. Probably similar to Mr. Surfacer, seems like it might be worth a shot. If the gap is particularly big, try building up several applications over time and let cure before sanding. Also be aware that overuse of plastic cement can leave seams very soft for a long time, meaning you can sand a seam flat only to have it reappear, and reappear again, ad infinitum until all the solvent finally evaporates.
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Aug 22, 2014 22:57
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Bimmi posted:Probably similar to Mr. Surfacer, seems like it might be worth a shot. Thanks for the tip, I'm taking my time on this model so I'll give it plenty of curing time.
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Aug 22, 2014 22:58
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I love the Tamiya putty. It's pretty thin so it goes on in smaller coats so there's less sanding required.
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Aug 22, 2014 23:17
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So, the first Metal Robot Damashii has been announced and it's the Hi Nu Gundam This is actually really disappointing to me, though, because I can't really see any cosmetic differences from the regular release RD Hi-Nu which I already bought like six months ago. Oh well, guess I'll wait and see what comes next.
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Aug 22, 2014 23:33
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Mecha Gojira posted:So, the first Metal Robot Damashii has been announced and it's the Hi Nu Gundam This is actually really disappointing to me, though, because I can't really see any cosmetic differences from the regular release RD Hi-Nu which I already bought like six months ago. Oh well, guess I'll wait and see what comes next. I get the feeling this is less "brand new line" and more "let's take the current RD molds, replace some parts with diecast metal and jack the price up 10-15 dollars". Also, why Hi-Nu Gundam? Between the current RD and the new MG coming out, who is gonna bother with this? Since we're on the subject, let me show you guys a REAL Chogokin:      Release Date: December Release Price: 32,400 yen... Ouch. 
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Aug 22, 2014 23:58
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TaurusOxford posted:Since we're on the subject, let me show you guys a REAL Chogokin:
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Aug 23, 2014 00:01
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Poison Mushroom posted:I'm surprised they've actually figured out a way to make a combining mecha with decent articulation. I mean, GGG isn't exactly the most complex of combiners, but still. Speaks well for someday finally getting an affordable Sentai/Megazord toy that can do more than just swing its shoulders. (Not counting the Figuarts 'one-solid-figure' type.) Bandai has been making combining mecha with decent articulation and detailing for a while now. They can get away with a lot more than Super Sentai toys, though, because A: they cost an arm and a leg (easily twice as much if not three times the price of a regular Bandai DX toy) and B: they're made for an adult collector audience as opposed to children ages 4-9. But yeah, I'm of the same opinion, TaurusOxford. The Metal Robot Damashii line does just seem like a way to remold older figures, slap some diecast in them, and jack the price up a little. Kind of a shame, but whatever. Soul of Chogokin GaoGaiGar has been a long time coming, though, and I do feel like I need that massive sucker in my collection.
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Aug 23, 2014 00:07
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My summer class is finally over, so to celebrate I sat down and finished my GX's paintjob. There's still decals and a topcoat to do, but I figured I'd finally reassemble this thing and have some fun. Like 25% of the way through the painting I figured the sky gray was too harsh a contrast, but I was too lazy to strip everything and try again.   Accessories. I had a shot of all of this strapped on at once, but it came out too blurry. If you squint you can see my in-progress Garrod figure.  The original plan was to paint all the foil stickers, but syndrome set in midway through. Sadly I accidentally put the rifle's scope sticker on the satellite cannon's, so I had to peel it off once. The shoulder vulcan probably came off the worst of the entire lot because I never got around to fixing its paintjob. The thing barely has any good poses so I don't really care to fix it up either. Speaking of vulcans, if you look closely, you'll see I lost two of the chest ones.  Spent forever trying to get a good leaping slash going, then gave up and just did the generic slash.  Next on the list are Exia RII and DX. My GX can just stay with my 3.0 and Nu vKa in eternal 90% completion.
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Aug 23, 2014 02:08
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Anyone in the Chicago area know of shops they'd recommend for Gunpla?
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Aug 23, 2014 02:15
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Hobby City Usa in Schaumburg is the only place i've found so far that has more than a few kits. I haven't looked anywhere in the city proper though. The one in Orland Park has a few but no weapon bags or markers, much less model stuff as a whole.
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Aug 23, 2014 02:49
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TARDISman posted:Anyone in the Chicago area know of shops they'd recommend for Gunpla? I've heard these guys have some: http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=&q=gundam never been there myself.
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Aug 23, 2014 02:54
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Is Moondog's Comics still around? I used to get kits and magazines there.
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Aug 23, 2014 02:56
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Thanks for all the suggestions! I'm probably going to Hobby Town since it's considerably closer to the hotel my family's staying at.
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Aug 23, 2014 03:43
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TaurusOxford posted:gently caress Crossbone... Fuuuck, now I actually kinda want one  . There's also a Build Burning Gundam Bust display stand coming in Dengeki Hobby at the end of November.
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Aug 23, 2014 03:51
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My hobby shop totes had Mr. Surfacer. It's the best.
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Aug 23, 2014 04:52
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It really is. And for seam-filling purposes, one bottle will last drat near forever.
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Aug 23, 2014 05:58
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Stumbled across this thread and got inspired to waste a few hours yesterday snapping together an old HG Verde Buster that I'd had in storage for like 7 years (I moved around a lot). Today I suddenly have a Build Strike kit in my house. And I'm looking up reviews of RG boxes. Oops. I've been trolling the internet for tutorials and basically nobody ever mentions the option of painting these guys with an actual brush and acrylics, which is basically all I've got. Is it advisable to spot paint panel detail and eyes and such? Am I better off just snap building, using the stickers and marker lining?
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Aug 23, 2014 06:19
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I do everything with a paintbrush and some acrylics. They're by far the best tool for small details, though when it comes to eyes it's like a 50/50 on if I even want to bother.quote:I mean I used the sticker for the eyes here and you can't even tell from this far away.
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Aug 23, 2014 06:23
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I was actually just looking at that while browsing the thread, looks great. Did you prime the whole thing and go over it all with brush or just paint on specific details?
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Aug 23, 2014 06:25
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I just painted over the white with sky gray to save time. It scratches off really easily right now, but a coat of future and some topcoat makes it a little sturdier.
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Aug 23, 2014 06:36
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Blitz had a really great post about brushpainting a while back that's a pretty good primer on the subject. Also, handpainting is best for small details, but boy is it hell on the eyes. Especially when you notice that one tiny speck of paint that's gone a fraction of a millimetre over the boundary and have to fix it. Also, topcoat is essential because there's always going to be unsightly brushmarks, even if you sand and polish your paint. I tried the aqueous gloss coat from Mr. Hobby(the kind in the blue spray cans), and those have seemed to work well. On the other hand, I wish I'd realised that I could sand down all the bumps I got when I first used it. I panicked and went a bit too heavy on the spray to try and eliminate them. I ruined those parts and had to start them all over again. Think I've got the procedure down, though. (Spray down multiple layers, quick passes with the spray can, wait a week or so, then sand those motherfuckers down. Use 2000 grit, then give it a good rub with a soft cloth. Your Gundam will look nice and shiny like in the animes!  )
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Aug 23, 2014 15:47
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Geara Zulu Guards Type has some nice little upgrades in construction over older gunpla. Really liked the way Feet/Legs are less of a crapshoot in the dark. The shield to arm attachment I couldn't get to stick on so i think some double sided tape is in order or putty.
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Aug 23, 2014 15:56
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Is there a better place to get Mr. Hobby Topcoat Flat than Amazon? They seem pretty expensive to me.
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Aug 23, 2014 17:09
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