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Phishi posted:So I <3 Chiagoo needles, but does anybody have experience with their interchangeable set? I'm pretty sure they've been mentioned in this thread but it was a while ago and I don't have search... How are the quality of the joins? Once you twist the needles on, are they pretty good at staying on? I got the Chiaogoo Red Lace (steel) interchangeable set and the Chiao goo bamboo interchangeable set , both for my birthday. I've only had them like a few weeks or a month, but I love them. I've used the red lace/steel more than the bamboo. Up until now I hated the idea of steel needles and only used bamboo, but the Red Lace set made me a steel convert. The cord is pretty great and the joins are smooth. I have not had any instance of them coming on, but then again I always use the key or a safetly pin to tighten and lock them. A safetly pin works just as well as the key, and I typically use a safety pin as a stitch marker, so I just always keep a couple in the case. To me they were pricey, but I don't regret it. I have put my straight needles away and use the Red Lace almost exclusively now.
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Oct 17, 2013 12:55
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Recently, I have started knitting in the round on circulars-mainly cowls. I notice that whenever I finish binding off, I always end up with this small gap between the beginning and end point of the binding. I am doing the basically binding off where you knit 2 sitches then pull one stitch over the other to bind off. Anybody have any idea what I am doing wrong or how to prevent this? Also, sorry for my crappy photo skills.
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Oct 19, 2013 20:22
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Since knitting in the round makes a spiral, your last stitch of your bind off row is going to sit slightly higher than the first stitch, and they're not joined together so it can also gap. If I'm doing a BO in the round and I want it to look more smooth, I'll pick up a stitch or two from the beginning of the bind off row and continue the BO with them - makes it look more evened out.
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Oct 19, 2013 20:28
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After finishing the bind-off, I cut a longer tail and weave that through that first (or those first two) stitches. Looks perfect.
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Oct 19, 2013 22:31
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i like nice words
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Yeah, I weave/follow the first stitch with the bind off tail to close the gap, then weave in the end like normal. Works like a charm.
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Oct 19, 2013 22:38
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wodan22 posted:Recently, I have started knitting in the round on circulars-mainly cowls. I notice that whenever I finish binding off, I always end up with this small gap between the beginning and end point of the binding. I am doing the basically binding off where you knit 2 sitches then pull one stitch over the other to bind off. Anybody have any idea what I am doing wrong or how to prevent this? Also, sorry for my crappy photo skills. IN case you need visuals (like I do) Cat Bordhi demonstrates in this video. You can skip to about 3:20, or watch the whole thing for a neat bind-off technique.
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Oct 20, 2013 04:34
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Would there be any interest in an SA Mart thread for trades/destash? I've got a lot of yarn and fiber I love but will never use, and I'd kind of like to see it go to a goon who might one day post a finished object made from it.
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Oct 20, 2013 20:37
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I'd be keen, but I'm in NZ  . Not sure if that counts.
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Oct 20, 2013 20:48
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left_unattended posted:I'd be keen, but I'm in NZ I've shipped fiber internationally before, and it's not terrible. I suppose it'd just depend on who's shipping. I certainly don't mind.
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Oct 20, 2013 23:23
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I have a bunch of stuff off to the side for my guild's swap day months ago that I missed, and had thought about something similar but  so count me in. The crochet folks may also be interested.
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Oct 21, 2013 04:41
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So I'm thinking of making some of these up for Christmas gift ideas. http://www.handimania.com/crochet/crochet-converse-slippers.html Except I'll knit them as socks that come up a bit higher. I'm excited that someone posted that sock knitting step-by-step because socks are the one thing I've not tried to tackle yet and I can tell it's going to make things sooo much easier. edit: you can see here that someone knitted some (but left no pattern ugh!) so I'm thinking socks with either button holes or loops attached for the laces to go through would work. 
SilverSliver fucked around with this message at 08:38 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 08:34
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Knitting in the round terrifies me. I know for sure that I can't do it with DPNs because I have problems with fine finger motion skills but I hope to plunge into trying to knit in the round with two circulars. At any rate, my mom sent me a photocopy of a pattern to make a potholder. I can't read it and I haven't been able to find it online. What I have reads roughly like this: Thermal Knit Pot Holder (Lily's Sugar & Cream) Using 2 strands, loo??ry cast on 37 sts. To slip st: keep your yarn at the back, slip ?? to purl. 1 -- SL2, *K?, sl ? ???repeat from * across, end P ? 2 -- Sl 1, *? (1 or 4?), K (1 or 4?), repeat from * across, end P2 Repeat the 2 rows to desired size. Bind off as follows: K (1 or 4), *K2 tog, bind off, K (1 or 4?), bind off, K (1 or 4?), bind off, repeat from * across. Yep, not a clue. Any thoughts? Anyone have this pattern?
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Oct 22, 2013 09:42
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gingersmurf posted:Knitting in the round terrifies me. I know for sure that I can't do it with DPNs because I have problems with fine finger motion skills but I hope to plunge into trying to knit in the round with two circulars. It's not exactly the same, but it's basically very similar to this potholder/mitt pattern with a different (or possibly no?) border and no opening to make it a mitt. It's basic double knitting - knit one, yif, slip 1 as if to purl, yib, (repeat) so every row you're only working half the stitches and on the next row you work the other half of them: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/potholder-mitt There are a lot of "double knit potholder" patterns on Ravelry, almost all of them include some sort of colorwork design, but you could glance through them to get an idea of what the pattern is calling for.
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Oct 22, 2013 20:35
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Fionnoula posted:It's not exactly the same, but it's basically very similar to this potholder/mitt pattern with a different (or possibly no?) border and no opening to make it a mitt. It's basic double knitting - knit one, yif, slip 1 as if to purl, yib, (repeat) so every row you're only working half the stitches and on the next row you work the other half of them: Thank you!!! I've been searching and searching to no avail so I guess that finding an alternate is my best bet. You are awesome!
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Oct 23, 2013 03:44
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Posting here since the Rav forums is slow to respond to my questions: I have recently finished up knitting a cardigan, and as I pick out buttons, I am not sure if I will need a ribbon backing for the button band. After measuring out the buttonhole, I am looking for 25-26mm buttons (maybe up to 28mm if I find something I like). They might be really large to hold on their own and I’m worried that the opening will stretch out. 1) I am considering getting ceramic buttons, but I am also open to plastic. If I use wood buttons (I kinda like the lighter wood on a darker teal color), will it be a pain to wash them since wood and water don’t mix? 1a) With that in mind, will I actually need a ribbon backing for the button band? With the way the button band is constructed, I am planning on sewing the buttons on where it will be more form-fitting. (So not on the actual button band/garter rows to stop the shorter side from curling, but just to the side of it) 2) With the way the top opening of the cardigan falls, the top button (at the neck ribbing) will most likely fall over. If I should sew ribbon backing, should I stop at the second or third button from the top (under the ribbing) so it doesn’t show? 3) Along the same lines, the longer front where the cable band is will also fall over at the top if it is unbuttoned. Should I reinforce all of the buttonholes or leave it be? I was trying to figure out how to sew backing on without it showing, but I don’t know if that means to have the ribbon come up to a certain point and leave the top buttonholes unreinforced. Other projects don’t seem to use ribbon to reinforce their cardigans, so maybe I don’t need it? I don't know. But I do like the cardigan (it's a birthday present to myself) and I plan to wear it a lot!
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Oct 24, 2013 03:22
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ackapoo posted:1) I am considering getting ceramic buttons, but I am also open to plastic. If I use wood buttons (I kinda like the lighter wood on a darker teal color), will it be a pain to wash them since wood and water don’t mix? It's personal preference really. I would go with a ribbon backing. I think it looks better and will prevent the buttons from pulling the yarn all over the place. Wooden buttons are treated so they are fine to wash. As for the placement of the backing, experiment with it and see what you like best! I'd love to see a pic of it!
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Oct 24, 2013 15:31
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 Finally finished the glittens I've been working on. This was the never ending project! I've never had such a short simple project take SO LONG! I've also never completed a project with so many mistakes and discrepancies between the pair. Well they're done now so I can move on! Speaking of moving check this guy out!  Apparently running a marathon can be a bit boring so he knit a 12 foot scarf at the same time! Although... he was using size 15 needles.  Get back to me when you knit 12 feet with needles smaller than 10's! Says the girl who can't walk across the room without catastrophic results!
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Oct 24, 2013 16:28
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I'm soooo excited - I signed up for a class with the Yarn Harlot next weekend. I took next week off work so I could use some of my vacation time before it stops accruing, and then I noticed she was teaching a class up in Maine on how to knit with those silk hankie things, which is a thing I've totally been wanting to do for ages. So I booked a B&B for the weekend and signed up for that poo poo. Can't wait! I gonna spend a whole weekend drunk and full of pie and knitting.
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Oct 24, 2013 21:27
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Bobshadycharacter, I'm totally jealous over here! Signups for Madrona will be soon and that's pretty much my plan, though probably minus the b&B as it's only a 45 minute or so drive away.
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Oct 24, 2013 22:59
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I feel like an idiot, but I need some help. I'm working on Winter Thaw and I'm almost on the final, edging chart. These are the notes for the YO row in the final chart: What I don't understand is how these stitches work. Am I knitting the 5/3 YOs as part of the 15/8 stitches? How does 5 YOs turn in to 15 stitches? Or am I knitting multiple stitches in to each YO? Someone please take the gibberish I'm talking and explain what the hell I'm supposed to do. I've been looking through posts on Rav but no one else seems to have a problem with this part. I could just muddle through it when I get there but I'm hoping that someone can explain it to me before I get there. The other thing I don't understand is how the 3+5+3 YOs in the first row of the edging chart turns in to so many extra stitches in the second row? Am I completely thick?
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Oct 25, 2013 07:35
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left_unattended posted:I feel like an idiot, but I need some help. I'm working on Winter Thaw and I'm almost on the final, edging chart. These are the notes for the YO row in the final chart: I've done something similar, I think. It's written a bit oddly...what I did was let all those YOs off the needle at once, so you basically have one giant stitch. Then you knit into that stitch, but without taking the stitch off the needle, yarn forward and purl into the stitch, then yarn back and knit into it, etc, until you have 15 stitches coming out of one big rear end yarn over. It's how you get those big holes in the edging there. At least, that's how I read it! What a pretty pattern, I never saw that one before.
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Oct 25, 2013 07:54
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Yeah, that's pretty much what I did. Just keep track of how many stitches you've made and you'll be fine.
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Oct 25, 2013 13:55
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Do you crochet at all? That part of the pattern is basically the knit equivalent of crocheting a buncha stitches into one stitch. Hope that helps you visualize it.
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Oct 25, 2013 16:45
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I was wondering if folks could talk about DPNs a little bit. I just started learning to knit in the round on them (I own circulars and will eventually learn magic circle, but for now I want to make the effort to learn on DPNs). Any brands that you highly recommend or that I should avoid? What about materials? Any advantage to DPNs over circulars with magic circle/loop or other methods? Any other general thoughts, impressions, info on DPNs?
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Oct 25, 2013 18:09
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Wodan, dpns vs magic loop and what mix of materials are very dependant on personal preference. What types of needle material do you like now?
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Oct 25, 2013 19:35
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I'm firmly in the DPNs for small diameter projects camp. I have a couple things I like: -I really really like Inox steel DPNs and some random steel susan bates I picked up that are 8". -I prefer 8" over 6" because I have very long hands, so the ends of the needles don't poke me. -Try knitting with both 4 and 5 needles; I like 5 more (four for project, one to knit with), but some people like 4. -Steel is my go-to. I tend to avoid bamboo because it bends in a way that makes think it will break. I used to really like Knitpicks laminated wood ones, but I don't as much now. They're very smooth though, and have good points. -I do like my lone pair of Signatures that I got as a gift, but I don't know I think they're worth all the fuss either. They're just well-made steel needles with good points and I super like them for colourwork, but I wouldn't say they are Must Have for colourwork. The biggest thing for me preferring DPN to magic-loop is it feels more comfortable in my hands. I get antsy about how the cable twists/lies in magic-loop. I also tend to get really awful runs when I magic loop I don't get when I use DPNs--there's more places for the stress on the 'end' stitches to distribute.
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Oct 25, 2013 19:35
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I like DPNs. They feel more flexible in what you can do with them than circulars to me, and I don't really like dealing with Magic Loop all that often. Circs do have the advantage in the very beginning, where a DPN project will be flopping everywhere, but that evens out after a few rows. Plus I think DPNs are the only way to do really small diameter knitting, like the fingers on a glove. I used to only use bamboo DPNs but I really enjoy my metal KnitPicks set. They're certainly harder to break. (lost a good set of DPNs to an accident once. It was very sad) It all really depends on personal preference, though.
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Oct 25, 2013 20:05
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If you have problem with ladders on your DPNs, there's a little song and dance you can do with slipping stitches onto different needles. Once I learned how to do that I prefer DPNs for socks, however, I get SSS pretty bad.
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Oct 25, 2013 20:09
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I have a set of size 2 bamboo DPNs that feel like toothpicks in my huge  fingers. I switch back and forth between DPNs and magic loop a lot depending on my mood and the project. I learned magic loop first but I was determined not to be defeated by DPNs. I use five, because having the nice squared-off arrangement makes me feel like it helps me keep the work more evenly tensioned (whether it actually does or not).
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Oct 25, 2013 21:05
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Speaking of DPN's, I made this bonnet on size 2 DPN's this week. I'd also like to add that I handspun the yarn from a camel/silk blend. jota23 fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Oct 25, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 21:22
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jota23 posted:Speaking of DPN's, I made this bonnet on size 2 DPN's this week. That bonnet looks fantastic. Wow. As for dpns, like the posters above me has said, it's preference. I like bamboo dpns because I'm a loose knitter and I feel like metal ones are going to slip out of my stitches. Length varies based on size of what I'm knitting. I find it fiddly to cast on and knit the first round on dpns, but after that it goes smoothly. I use 5 dpns. I can do magic loop too, but I get tired of pulling the cable around I guess.
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Oct 25, 2013 21:47
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I'm currently knitting gloves as Christmas presents on metal DPNs, which is okay. Though I find that purl stitches don't look so neat on DPNs, and I'm not sure why. Also, as rectal cushion says, the first round does tend to be a bit fiddly.
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Oct 25, 2013 23:36
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I knit a lot of gloves, mittens, and hats, and DPNs are definitely the best way to do it in my opinion. I use 3 on the project + 1 knitting, so then I can use the fifth as a cable needle (you still want to buy sets of 5). I like 6", they're fine even for fingers. I like wood or laminated wood because they have just enough friction not to fall out whatever the fiber is. For size 2 and under, I do use steel for durability. I'm also looking into Karbonz. They're mostly perfect (although pricey), but the points are just too variable. In one set, I have one perfectly pointed needle and the rest are all pretty blunt. I think practice with DPNs gets rid of most problems pretty quickly. I never had a laddering issue. For casting on, I do all the stitches on one needle, then slip to the others. That's a tiny bit irritating, but on the other hand, I think it's way easier to see on DPNs than on circs if your work is twisted. In conclusion, go DPNs, down with magic loop.
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Oct 26, 2013 00:26
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I tried to work magic loop this week and found it frustrating. My first attempt got twisted, the second attempt looked messy and no where near as neat as my knitting looks when using dpns. I learned to use dpns first. Every video I watched showed the stitches toward the middle when joining in magic loop and that just wouldn't work for me. I think maybe it's because I knit continental and joining with the yarn on the left was just screwing with me. I also worked my first icord this week and found that I couldn't work that continental either. I had to bumblingly work it English style to get it to turn into an actual icord.
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Oct 26, 2013 00:47
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Currently I prefer magic loop on circulars, but that's what I learned on. I haven't done much with DPNs, but I just get frustrated with them. I think there are various factors with that. I probably need the friction of wooden needles rather than metal ones I currently have. I love my metal circulars, but with two ends for stitches to fall off of, it's too many ends for me to be aware of while I'm trying to make everything work. I need a ton more practice though. My opinion may change when I have the time and I am determined to learn to use them proficiently. So everyone's tips are appreciated. I'm currently working on a headband with frog eyes for a Halloween costume. I tried DPNs to make the eyes first but gave up. Some day though.
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Oct 26, 2013 01:08
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For me, it depends on what I'm doing. I recently knit a hat with size 9 needles, and it was awful trying to use DPNs. everything just flopped everywhere and it was super frustrating, so I switched to magic loop on my circular. Then I knit some gloves with the same size 9 DPNs and it was totally cool. Wouldn't even think of using magic loop for them. Also it kind of depends on which needles I happen to have on hand. I don't have a full set of circs or DPNs, so I'm limited that way. I bought most of my DPNs for socks, so they range from 00 to 6, and the 9s. My circs overlap a bit and range from 5 to 13, because I tend to use them for larger projects.
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Oct 26, 2013 02:34
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So... Yarn Harlot posted about this and I couldn't resist posting it here. It's a knot that allows you to cut off the ends to the knot and not have to weave in the ends. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nq_7EXTWHE
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Oct 26, 2013 03:17
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mcknitknot posted:It's personal preference really. I would go with a ribbon backing. I think it looks better and will prevent the buttons from pulling the yarn all over the place. I haven't bought the ribbon yet, but I was thinking of this. Also, I would probably just do it on the back of the buttons and not the buttonholes, since the back of the cable panel will show more often than not. This is my sweater, except it is all finished and I wish I had uploaded a sort of final photo of everything done and ready. It is made in Malabrigo Rios in Teal Feather, so I wanted a ribbon in teal? Or maybe green? Or something blue? I have no idea.
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Oct 26, 2013 04:45
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Another option, besides ribbon, is to use a small plastic button, and create a thread shank behind the large button in front. The second, small button on the back of your work helps distribute the weight while also keeping the weight down. The purpose of a ribbon button band is to keep the entire line from stretching. The second button just keeps the large button from pulling on individual yarn loops. Here is a cool, quick little guide to how to make flat buttons into shank buttons, though I've tried using the smaller button on the front of my work with the large button, and my knitting doesn't like it. The button hole doesn't get the chance to cinch in tight to the shank, so it slips off. The other options work great, though. Again, I'd add the second button to the back of the work regardless of which shank you use on the large button. http://gailpatrice.com/2009/11/30/how-to-put-a-shank-on-a-flat-button/ jota23 fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Oct 26, 2013 |
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Oct 26, 2013 05:01
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jota23 posted:So... Yarn Harlot posted about this and I couldn't resist posting it here. It's a knot that allows you to cut off the ends to the knot and not have to weave in the ends. That looks pretty good for thick yarn, I still like russian joins for most of my uses, but that knot looks like it would work good for things like hats and blankets. I wouldn't use it on socks or lace. Also that video reminded me just how much I hate english style knitting. So much hand movement.
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Oct 26, 2013 08:49
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