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bull3964 posted:I'm going to go with oxygenated gas, usually by using ethanol. One of our gas companies have been sued before because their "92 octane" was really hovering between ~89.7 and ~93.5 octane (forget the exact numbers) according to independent tests. Should get a lot better in the summer; in the summer I was routinely under 9.5 L/100km. Maybe Cat Terrist is just easier on his WRX than me.
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Feb 15, 2011 16:17
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Tatrakrad posted:Impressive. I keep trying to bump my around town average up in my 2010 but I'm stuck at 13/20, usually worse. In my 2.5i, following the manual's shifting speeds table during break-in put me well beyond EPA averages. I presume doing the same in a WRX should cause the same two side effects: Boredom and less fuel consumption. For your reference, try shifting at: 1-2: 14mph 2-3: 24mph 3-4: 35mph 4-5: 47mph If you _really_ want to see improved mileage.
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Feb 15, 2011 18:40
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I'm going to be modifying my center clock pod to accept my Scangauge II as seen here. Already pulled the pod out, removed the clock (both were a bitch to do) and ran the Scanguage cable up through the dash. Just need to do some Dremeling in order to get a good fit and I should be good to go.
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Feb 15, 2011 19:29
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Amandyke posted:That looks like a wisco piston... stock  Click here for the full 1024x575 image.
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Feb 15, 2011 20:28
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Holy ringland
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Feb 15, 2011 20:39
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That'll buff right out.
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Feb 15, 2011 20:42
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How does the silicone turbo inlet cause that? Did the hose pop off and the turbo decided to boil itself (and the nearest cylinder) to death trying to maintain reasonable boost?
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Feb 15, 2011 20:43
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a leak between the maf sensor and turbo lets unmetered air into the engine. Which means it goes lean and detonates. Trashed the bearings and blew the headgaskets too. The newer reinforced perrin inlets are the only soft ones I like. otherwise keep it stock or do a hard inlet.
jamal fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Feb 15, 2011 |
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Feb 15, 2011 20:52
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I was wondering the same thing. Was it caused by a lean condition due to too much air entering the engine since there was no restriction from the hose? Edit: Beaten.
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Feb 15, 2011 20:54
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and hey the very nice replacement pistons just showed up: Click here for the full 1024x768 image. I think JEs are my favorite pistons. Cosworths are nice too but cost twice as much. Here's the bottom of a JE  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. and here's a cosworth next to a mahle:  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. the cosworths have a little better finishing work, are of some fancy propriatary alloy, and are lighter than the JEs. They both have a pretty similar design which increases strength and reduces weight. if anyone was wondering about aftermarket subaru pistons. jamal fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 15, 2011 21:46
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Jamal what's your opinion on the Wiseco pistons?
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Feb 15, 2011 22:48
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nothing particularly wrong with any brand of piston and most of it comes down to personal preference. It's pretty uncommon to see an aftermarket piston fail because of a manufacturing or design problem until you are making a whole poo poo ton of power. Our CPs came out of the block looking just fine after we snapped a rod but we did have another piston fail because the minimum thickness between the valve cutout and ringland was too small. Those were one of the first sets of high compression stroker pistons that had been made though and the manufacturer decided to pretend it never happened (who will remain nameless). It also depends on what I'm building. For 2.0 rebuilds we do a lot of 2.2 stroker kits with a stock sti crank, rods, and Mahle pistons specifically for that build. If I need a custom piston made I go with Ross because I have a friend over there and it's practically right down the street. If money is no object I go with Cosworth because their rods and pistons have probably the best strength to weight ratio. Otherwise I usually pick JE because I like them and we have a good margin on them.
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Feb 15, 2011 23:12
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Bad news. The shops tuner has to leave town for a death in the family. They guy said I could always do everything and stay out of boost until the tune, if I really wanted to have everything done. I politely declined his offer, and instead of rescheduling completely, that they do the clutch, flywheel, rotate/align and do the exhaust/tune when he gets back in town. Oh well. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Feb 15, 2011 |
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Feb 15, 2011 23:51
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we're on a roll today with the broken subaru parts: Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. this one cracked a radiator, overheated, seized a rod bearing and stuck a hole through the top of the block. Lucky for him we have another 2.0 shortblock sitting here. One new piston, some new bearings, and a couple valves and it will be good as new.
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Feb 16, 2011 00:29
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jamal posted:this one cracked a radiator, overheated, seized a rod bearing and stuck a hole through the top of the block. Was he just trying to limp along until he got the radiator fixed? Or did he not notice his coolant temperature skyrocketing and that wonderful anti-freeze smell overwhelming the interior...
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Feb 16, 2011 00:46
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Do you do a lot of builds that just drop in forged pistons? I was under the impression that the block has to be honed for clearances, etc, and by the time you do all that it makes more sense to just go with a fully built longblock. It's been hard for me to get an idea of the limits of the actual ej25 shortblock itself for this reason.
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Feb 16, 2011 00:50
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no we never do drop ins. To get the piston wall clearances exact and a good ring seat you need to do an oversize bore and hone. The broken motor already has +0.5mm JE pistons so we're going to put them in another used stock block we have here. Some people claim this weakens the cylinder wall and leads to cracks. I think taking 0.25mm off the liner will have next to no effect on things. Cylinders do crack sometimes but it's usually a tune issue or on a car making A LOT of power. Our race car has been making 700awhp with 100mm bores all year but cracked a stock bore at 550 so I can't really say anything more than a crack is due to a fluke or bad tune that knocks excessively. If you took a stripped down case to our machine shop they would charge you $250 for the clean, bore, and hone and then another $60 to balance the components and check bearing clearances for you. They'll actually take the pistons you are installing and measure them before they cut the bores and do the hone so a 100mm bore for X brand piston may very well end up different than the one for Y brand. Being so precise lets us run much closer and more consistent p/w clearances which makes for a longer lasting, quiet motor that doesn't consume oil. I've had piston manufacturers recommend 0.005" p/w clearance and our builds are usually about half that. Amandyke posted:Was he just trying to limp along until he got the radiator fixed? Or did he not notice his coolant temperature skyrocketing and that wonderful anti-freeze smell overwhelming the interior... I wish I knew how he pulled this off, and I'm really not even completely clear on the timeline and how this happened. He also had it at a firestone for some reason who said the timing belt needed to be changed and they may have hosed that up too. Car came to us straight from firestone with a hole in the block. jamal fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 16, 2011 01:19
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jamal posted:I wish I knew how he pulled this off, and I'm really not even completely clear on the timeline and how this happened. He also had it at a firestone for some reason who said the timing belt needed to be changed and they may have hosed that up too. Car came to us straight from firestone with a hole in the block. This could turn into a fantastic story...
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Feb 16, 2011 02:15
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Ok so I need a new motor for a 2005 Legacy GT. I'm making like 80 something psi in one piston and like 100 in its brother. This has been repeated at another shop with similar results. The other bank is fine in excess of 145 psi. Leakdown has air coming out of the oil cap. So pistons. Car has 92k mi. Yay. I'm in norcal. So I got a quote from a reputable shop recommended here for: Removing my current block and reusing the case, crank, and rods. Tearing it down putting in CP pistons new bearings new oil pump build up motor (Which is supposedly about $1000 cheaper than a newly built motor, it is also about $600 more than an OEM shortblock) new oil pickup (killer B) ARP studs gaskets Headwork (5 angle valve job, resurface head, valve lash) Timing belt job with: belt tensioner pulleys waterpump thermostat Basic tune Total: Like $7500 (incl tax) I feel like I'm being bent over. Does this seem like overkill? Does the price seem insane? This isn't exactly affordable for me. I was expecting at least $1000 cheaper. I do track days and AX and have a downpipe and uppipe. I plan for no other engine mods. I do think the tune is a good idea as well, my pistons blew up. The shop is really selling the forged pistons which seems like it makes sense given that subaru pistons are blowing up left and right, and I do drive the car hard. AI, I need your help. At $7500, I don't know if I can afford this. Car drives "fine" though burns a hilarious amount of oil. Spark plugs don't look great. I am willing to travel or whatever to do this cheaper. Jamal, I'm looking at you.
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Feb 16, 2011 05:54
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that does seem like a little much. I expect we could do all that for under 5k in under two weeks.
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Feb 16, 2011 07:59
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jamal posted:that does seem like a little much. I expect we could do all that for under 5k in under two weeks. I'm in norcal and my car still moves under its own power. No, seriously, if you can do that for ~$5k, I will drive it down in a heartbeat. I guess I should call the other NorCal shops. Besides GST, LIC, and that one in fairfield (one of which gave me a quote), anyone else who doesn't suck?
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Feb 16, 2011 08:03
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Yeah and I'm only saying that high because of the tuning, headstuds, oil pickup, and timing stuff, which adds close to $1300 to the build. I can e-mail you a breakdown of the costs tomorrow if you want, but I can think of 2-3 shops up there that can do it right and should have pretty reasonable pricing on a build. Have you talked to LIC, GST, and EQ tuning? I'm guessing you got that quote from one of those places but I'm surprised it's that high.
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Feb 16, 2011 08:07
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jamal posted:Yeah and I'm only saying that high because of the tuning, headstuds, oil pickup, and timing stuff, which adds close to $1300 to the build. I can e-mail you a breakdown of the costs tomorrow if you want, but I can think of 2-3 shops up there that can do it right and should have pretty reasonable pricing on a build. Have you talked to LIC, GST, and EQ tuning? I'm guessing you got that quote from one of those places but I'm surprised it's that high. I'll IM you my email address though.
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Feb 16, 2011 08:11
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I test drove a 2006 Impreza 2.5i wagon (87000km) with the manual transmission the other day, it was pretty sweet. If I finish up the sale of my other vehicle this week I'll be buying it for this weekend. I was impressed with it for being an NA, and the boxer engine sounds pretty sweet. I'd love to get my hands on a WRX for the extra power but all the decent used WRXs are outside of my price range, and the ones I can afford look flogged. My practical side won this time, but if I like this car I want an STI down the road.
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Feb 16, 2011 08:34
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canadianclassic posted:I test drove a 2006 Impreza 2.5i wagon (87000km) with the manual transmission the other day, it was pretty sweet. If I finish up the sale of my other vehicle this week I'll be buying it for this weekend.
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Feb 16, 2011 08:36
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nm posted:The reason I got my LGT was a 2.5i Legacy rental car. The 2.5 NA is not a bad little motor (and doesn't loving blow up). The Legacy GT was my ideal car, really. It's just a bit too far past the flexibility of my price range since I'd want at least a 2005 because that's when it really beefed up. But yeah I was really impressed by the NA engine (compared to what I expected).
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Feb 16, 2011 09:37
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Seat Safety Switch posted:So I did my coolant and installed a crank baffle, group-N motor mounts and an oil pickup on Friday; the coolant overflow bottle is a little over-filled but I don't think it should cause this to happen. It feels like a sudden power loss, then a surge, then returning to normal. It happens fast enough that it just feels like an aggressive "bucking" action and it doesn't seem periodic or terribly reproducible. Boost leak? Air bubble in the coolant confusing some sensor and needs to be burped? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 16, 2011 17:17
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jamal posted:Yeah and I'm only saying that high because of the tuning, headstuds, oil pickup, and timing stuff, which adds close to $1300 to the build. I can e-mail you a breakdown of the costs tomorrow if you want, but I can think of 2-3 shops up there that can do it right and should have pretty reasonable pricing on a build. Have you talked to LIC, GST, and EQ tuning? I'm guessing you got that quote from one of those places but I'm surprised it's that high. Left messages with the others. poo poo for $7500, I'd just clean off the oil blacked exhaust tips and trade it in at my local carmax and buy something cheaper to keep running. Like a heavily modified FD RX-7 
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Feb 16, 2011 20:21
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Hey Jamal, I've got a 97 Outback that's had an oil leak from the front passenger side timing cover area that's recently gotten a lot worse, barfing oil all down the control arm and getting all over the passenger side brake rotor. What all should I replace to make sure I don't have to go back in there anytime soon? I'm thinking cam and crank seals, but is there anything else in there?
Jared592 fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 16, 2011 20:35
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that's strange they won't rebuild a block. Guess you're taking a road trip?
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Feb 16, 2011 20:35
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jamal posted:that's strange they won't rebuild a block. Guess you're taking a road trip? There's a certain price I'll pay for being nearby (though all these shops are about 100mi away), but it ain't $2000. I think the shops up hear have so little competition (like 3-4 decent ones for all of Norcal) that they don't need business and can charge what they like. The shop that quoted the $7500 was booked out until mid-April-May.
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Feb 16, 2011 20:42
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nm posted:Still waiting on two call backs. However, if they're all ~$7k, it is roadtrip time. I gotta chime in now. I actually talk with [some dude] over at [some shop] on a fairly regular basis. It's not that they don't have competition (quite the opposite) it's that [some shop] gives you a quote that covers *everything* you need/should have with your build up. No surprise "Oh while we're in here do you want to switch this out too?" calls, it's all included in the quote. If you want them not to do something, they wont do it. But everything they put on there is for a reason. If you have questions about why something was quoted at whatever price, by all means call up [some shop] talk to [some dude] or [some dude] and talk them about it. They'd be more than happy to discuss it with you and earn your business. They're not out there making money hand over fist. Likely the cheapest solution for you would be to get a salvage motor out of a wrecked car (ebay, etc). I've typically seen STi motors go for $3k-$5k depending on mileage and included accessories. Install would be ~$1k + tune. Of course that leaves you with a used motor of unknown quality/longevity. But if you need to get the price down, that's one way to do it. Amandyke fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 16, 2011 21:15
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I sent nm a quick breakdown of what we would charge and think I covered everything. The pricing on parts and labor are pretty similar but EQ charges A LOT more for machine shop work.Jared592 posted:Hey Jamal, I've got a 97 Outback that's had an oil leak from the front passenger side timing cover area that's recently gotten a lot worse, barfing oil all down the control arm and getting all over the passenger side brake rotor. What all should I replace to make sure I don't have to go back in there anytime soon? I'm thinking cam and crank seals, but is there anything else in there? sure it's oil and not power steering fluid? Mine looks like it's leaking oil but it's actually the p/s pump leaking down behind the covers. I need to replace the whole goddamn steering system at some point I think. maybe I'll get a used rack and pump and rebuild them. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 16, 2011 21:24
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jamal posted:sure it's oil and not power steering fluid? 100%. It smells like a refinery once I park. Also, the plastic undercarriage shield underneath the timing cover is coated in oil. It's the one part of the undercarriage I don't think I'll have problems with fasteners rusting in place. Jared592 fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 16, 2011 21:25
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Here's a big wall of text involving a couple wiring questions: I'm completing a wiring harness merge for the '01 ez30d I'm sticking in my manual transmission '99 2.5rs. The issue I'm worried about is regarding the transmission control unit, I found this guy who swapped the EZ30D into a manual transmission and ended up with a pair of CELs ("TCU unit communication error" & "Torque cut signal error"). I'd like to avoid these CELs by tricking the transmission control unit into thinking it's hooked up to an automatic transmission. Here's the diagram I have for the transmission:  Click here for the full 1033x1279 image. As far as I can tell, the inputs to the TCU are the vehicle & turbine speed sensors, AT Temp, throttle position sensor, and gear switch. There's also an ABS input that I don't know what to do about. The throttle position sensor is no problem. For the gear switch, I plan on wiring the harness such that when the MT is not in neutral and the clutch is not in, the TCU thinks the car is in drive (and so that the TCU thinks it's in neutral otherwise). I also think I can emulate the AT temp sensor with a resistor. I'm having a little trouble in regards to the vehicle speed sensors. The TCU has an input from VSS1, VSS2, and a 'turbine speed sensor' (from the torque converter?). My understanding is that these sensors spit out a square wave signal whose frequency is linearly related to the vehicle speed. I think it would be a good idea to take my MT VSS and hook it up to an arduino, which would then spit out a corresponding VSS1, VSS2, and TSS that the TCU expects. Does this sound like a good/bad idea? Does anyone know what exactly the signal from the AT sensors should be as a function of vehicle speed? Also, does anyone know if the TCU has any sort of input from the transmission solenoids? dyne fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 16, 2011 21:26
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Jared592 posted:100%. It smells like a refinery once I park. Also, the plastic undercarriage shield underneath the timing cover is coated in oil. It's the one part of the undercarriage I don't think I'll have problems with fasteners rusting in place. I guess just pull the timing covers. hardest part will be getting the crank pulley loose. I take a long accessory belt and wrap it around the ac/alternator belt to wedge it in place. Easier than tracking down the oem service tool and better than using the flywheel and whole crankshaft to hold it in place.
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Feb 16, 2011 21:37
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Amandyke posted:I gotta chime in now. I actually talk with [redacted] on a fairly regular basis. It's not that they don't have competition (quite the opposite) it's that [redacted] gives you a quote that covers *everything* you need/should have with your build up. No surprise "Oh while we're in here do you want to switch this out too?" calls, it's all included in the quote. If you want them not to do something, they wont do it. But everything they put on there is for a reason. If you have questions about why something was quoted at whatever price, by all means call up [redacted] talk to [redacted] and talk them about it. They'd be more than happy to discuss it with you and earn your business. They're not out there making money hand over fist. Actually, the problem is amazing labor and machine shop charges. Jamal gave me a rough quote doing everything in their estimate and it came out 2k cheaper. I do plan on contacting them though. The part prices verge on reasonable, but the labor is well, excessive. I actually sent Jamal the quote, so we had a direct comparison. There was no clutch or anything added in, just TB gear, CP forged pistons, ARP head studs and a mild tune (not their most expensive). I'm not putting a used block in. If it comes to that, I'm selling it because I'm not dealing with this twice. edit: You mind deleting the shop name? I'm not out to call anyone ripoff artists or anything. nm fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Feb 16, 2011 |
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Feb 16, 2011 21:38
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jamal posted:I guess just pull the timing covers. hardest part will be getting the crank pulley loose. I take a long accessory belt and wrap it around the ac/alternator belt to wedge it in place. Easier than tracking down the oem service tool and better than using the flywheel and whole crankshaft to hold it in place. Cool, thanks for the tip. I've had trouble with crank pulley bolts in the past. I'll do what you said and hopefully it'll zip right off with my impact.
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Feb 16, 2011 21:39
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Bob Log, your im box is full (this is actually on topic)
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Feb 16, 2011 22:06
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I feel for anyone with an 05 LGT. I bought one, managed to blow the motor during my 60 day warranty, returned the car and got my money back. Sucks because they're cool cars and only wagon and 5speed in 05. In other news. I'm working on my FXT drivetrain swap into my RS. Axles are killin' me. Got the rear diff out. Driver Front, stuck. Driver Rear, out. Passenger Front, out. Passenger Rear, stuck. FXT axle #1 separated from hub. FXT axle #2 still stuck to hub. Turns out my rear axles are male on both ends, wasn't expecting that. When I pulled the rear axle, I noticed that the front ones seem to have teeth (for abs sensor?) around them, yet this back one seems liked the teeth all rusted off. I compared it to the FXT axle they seemed very similar. RS top, FXT bottom.  I think I should double check my rear hubs with the FXT hubs to make sure those teeth are/aren't supposed to be there. The teeth on the front axles are fine. If they're necessary, it could prove as to why my ABS freaks out since the sensor doesn't have the right readings? Also, this little guy popped out when I pulled the rear RS axle...  I've still got two axles stuck in the RS. I've tried an air hammer and a punch + BFH. No dice on either. I'll be looking into grabbing a gear puller to try and press them out. If that doesn't work, the torch is coming out and I'll have to replace bearings. While I have the axles out, is there anything I should replace in the hubs? Wheel bearing seals? I haven't checked my FSM yet to look at the assembly, but any insight into anything would be a great help.
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Feb 17, 2011 06:24
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