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IIRC That's an EGR hose? There's a couple reasons why you could have a crank no-start though.
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Apr 9, 2016 02:25
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MonkeyBot posted:I got a broke hose on a 93 volvo 850. It's this thing coming off the air filter. Nah, that's just there to help the car warm up faster. There's a flap inside the airbox controlled by a thermostat; when the engine is cold the flap is open and the engine takes in warm air from inside the exhaust manifold heat shield by way of that duct. Once the engine warms up and the air coming in from the duct gets really hot, the flap closes and the engine starts taking in ambient air. It's not hurting anything the way it is but if you live in a state/province that takes emissions really seriously they might bitch about it during the next inspection. If the engine cranks but won't turn over it could be the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump itself, a crank or cam position sensor, or something else in the ignition system. I've worked on a lot of Volvos, but never a '93 850 specifically, so I can't be much more helpful. If you get a chance, google how to check the codes in that car using the blinker box under the hood and see if there are any stored. That might give you a little more info about what's going on.
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Apr 9, 2016 04:26
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I'm nearly completely mechanically ignorant and I think I got jacked by the Honda dealer (wife wants her car only serviced by dealer, bah). Any help/information would be appreciated, hate feeling like I got ripped off. Year and a half ago, did the 100K service on the accord, and they said needed to replace the brake pads. As part of that they said they needed to resurface the rotors. I just went along with it at the time. So now, about 13k miles later, the car has developed some serious vibration during braking. Took it in today, and wonder of wonders, need to replace the rotors altogether. From reading the service report, the thickness is magically right at the minimum allowable, 21mm. So I'm thinking maybe what happened was the guy cut it to the minimum first and then polished it up? Instead of just grinding it down till it was smooth.... And then, being that thin, they didn't last long at all. Paying premium dealer prices for a resurface ($160), shouldn't I reasonably expect to have gotten a lot more wear out of them than 18 months, 13k miles. In fact, couldn't these guys just be pushing the resurface during brake pad changes whether its needed or not, and then grinding the poo poo out of them so that you end up back in the shop sooner rather than later? Hitting people up for two services instead of just one. I'm thinking at a minimum they should have told me that their "resurfacing" might not last much more than a year. The service manager today was saying she had seen resurfaced rotors give out in six months, that I was lucky they lasted 18 - what the gently caress are you selling that "service" for then? Shouldn't they have given me the option to have them replaced right then, while they were doing the pads and everything was off? I mean hell, shouldn't replacing all 4 right there be cheaper than the $160 they charged for resurfacing them? They charged $80 in material for each of the front rotors today, plus 140 in labor, so I guess it would have been a min of $320 in material then for them to do all four, but the labor shouldn't have been much with everything off already. But still I probably would have done that if they had told me "we've seen resurfaced rotors give out after six months of our guys grinding the poo poo out of them...." So now I've paid $460 for new rotors just in the front and resurfaced in the back. Plus whatever hundreds I got charged for the brake pads. From googling, I guess one tip is to get the rotors replaced when changing the pads, but ask for the old ones. Take them to a place that resurfaces for $10/each, and then swap them in the next time.
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Apr 9, 2016 04:39
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If it's at minimum after 13k it wasn't near that when they machined them. The "polishing" is just a very shallow final cut to get a smooth finish once all the high and low spots have been leveled. I've seen rotors that were close to max thickness in spots, but thin enough in others that once they got machined down flat they were just above the minimum for re-use; occasionally you get down to minimum and they're still not smooth. It all depends on the rotor condition. It is pretty much necessary to have smooth rotors when you replace pads. Otherwise the grooves in the rotor will wear the pad down prematurely until the profiles match, and in the meantime you'll only have brake contact on the high spots of the rotor instead of the entire surface, which overheats the metal and can create hot spots of brittle hardened steel. $80 sounds pretty up there for just rotors but if they did pads it's only a little high. In the future you'd be way batter off doing it yourself. I don't know what model your blue car is but you could probably get rotors and pads for all 4 wheels for a touch over $100, and assuming it's not an early 90s accord it's generally easy enough for a first-timer to do. Honestly modern cars don't have a whole lot of thickness to the rotors (because thickness means weight means poor fuel economy, you see), you can get one cut at most usually but that's about it. Unless you've got a proper sports car it's usually more cost effective to get new rotors every time, and they're one of the parts you can actually go cheap on; it's just a lump of cast iron, after all. DO splurge on good pads, though.
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Apr 9, 2016 04:51
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Enourmo posted:If it's at minimum after 13k it wasn't near that when they machined them. The "polishing" is just a very shallow final cut to get a smooth finish once all the high and low spots have been leveled. Allright, that makes me feel better that I didn't get straight up scammed! Seems like resurfacing is not a great option anymore for the consumer though if the rotors don't routinely make it to the next brake pad change, and I definitely didn't request it out of the blue from them. So I still feel like trying to get ahold of the general manager to complain and try to get some money back. And I think I'm taking it to my truck's mechanic from now on, screw the dealer. It was $80 in material cost for *each* rotor today btw, $160 for two, plus $140 in labor. $300 bottom line. Didn't change the pads with 13k miles on them.
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Apr 9, 2016 05:39
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I think trying to get money back on a job that happened 18 mos ago and was just a simple rotor turning sounds like a pretty poor idea. I'd save my breath and realize that brakes wear out through no fault of the dealership.
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Apr 9, 2016 06:20
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I have never been to this forum but google is not helping me here so I thought I'd look here. Just a warning: I know pretty much nothing about cars. I have a 2008 Hyundai Elantra, bought new and has about 70k miles on it. I have no idea what type of engine it has. My check engine light came on and I know that I should just get it checked but that's why this is a stupid question. Basically what I think caused it is my stick shift keep slightly slipping from drive into neutral. It's slow and usually it will spend some time with the dash light on in neither drive or neutral before finally falling into neutral. If I movie the stick into third for a bit and then move it back to the drive position, it's still a little shakey but it stays. When looking this up I found entries for a slipping transmission but most of the when people described that the actual stick didn't move, the car just sort of changed gears without the stick moving. It also sounds a bit more rattly than normal but that also might be my imagination getting worked up because the light went on. As I said, I know I should just take it somewhere and get the code looked at but at the same time if I do that and find out I need to change my transmission I want to know how screwed I am when I tell my mechanic that there's no way in hell I can afford that.
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Apr 9, 2016 06:43
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I'm assuming it's an automatic transmission, since you mentioned "drive". That sounds like it's probably the switch on the shifter - it's under the base, but it basically tells the computer (and lights on the dash) what position the shifter is in. That switch, on many cars, gets gunked up over the years - especially if you have cupholders nearby. In most states, you can just swing by AutoZone and they'll be able to tell you why the check engine light is on. For free.
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Apr 9, 2016 07:17
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For the honda brake dude: Most modern rotors have enough meat on them for one whole run through the lathe, maybe 2 if the second run is literally only a polishing or removing a very thin coating of surface rust. The measurements are handled in thousands of an inch and if you take out a nasty spot, you're not leaving a ton of room. Alot of times, (honda odesseys and early 2000's ford f-150s are the worst offenders in my area) I'll go to cut something after measuring out a 5-10 thousandths difference, find a low spot/hot spot and have to take 20-30 more getting it out. Its just the way poo poo goes. Though you need to find a good independant shop to do the work, dealership pricing is always nuts. Edit: And that $10 rotor cut is probably at an oreillys, since its the only major chain parts store that still turn rotors, drums and flywheels. You probably won't find a shop willing to let you take rotors to be turned at a parts store while your car is taking up a lift and it'll rust up in between brake jobs anyways. This means its only really an option if you are doing the job yourself. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Apr 9, 2016 |
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Apr 9, 2016 07:18
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2000 Bonneville 3800 Gm supercharged Was driving on the highway the other day when the Temp gauge shot up. I'm at 227k so I constantly check my gauges. I pulled off immediately to a gas station. Obviously low on coolant but there is no leak in my garage and I had the radiator flushed a few weeks ago. Added coolant and headed home. Coolant didn't last once it got up to pressure. Had to get a tow. Added more coolant at the service shop, 6pm nobody there. And it ran okay with the radiator cap not completely sealed. Was wet around the belts. Water pump? Or something worse?
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Apr 9, 2016 17:42
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So you keep adding coolant and it keeps disappearing? I suggest you check your oil.
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Apr 9, 2016 17:52
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Ugh. I don't know what changed in "recent" cars but their seats physically hurt my neck and shoulders to sit in for any extended period of time. This is true in a 2015 Ford F-150 I drove for several days, and it's true in my 2016 PriusV. The problem is it takes a day or two of driving before whatever wrong angle builds up to the point of pain, but after that it's basically instant upon sitting down in it. This was not an issue in a 2003 or 2013 civic, or earlier editions of various cars ('98? Mazda Protege, 2000 VW Jetta4, 2009 Z4, earlier editions of F150/Expedition.) I did not notice it after test driving the car several times and sitting in the seat for 15 minutes in the lot just checking comfort. I feel it something with the angle of the top-half of the seat back combined with the head rest, but it still hurts without the headrest. I've adapted this using various foam pads which I think have severely degraded the safety of my seat. Last night I was in a fender bender and my neck & back are now stiff. I've been evaluated by a physician. Is this something which has fundamentally changed? Do I need to crush my priusv into a cube? I'm really at a loss as to what to do here as it can be very hard to quantify this to people when looking for cars, and eventually driving around an old civic isn't going to be feasible. The primary difference between me and normal people is I am somewhat but not excessively tall at 6'4".
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Apr 9, 2016 17:54
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some texas redneck posted:I'm assuming it's an automatic transmission, since you mentioned "drive". That sounds like it's probably the switch on the shifter - it's under the base, but it basically tells the computer (and lights on the dash) what position the shifter is in. That switch, on many cars, gets gunked up over the years - especially if you have cupholders nearby. Your suggestion is actually extremely likely because my stick shift is really, for lack of a better word, shmutzy. Anyways, the light went off so I'm just do nothing like a dumb person for now (other than clean the area a bit).
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Apr 9, 2016 17:55
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Godholio posted:So you keep adding coolant and it keeps disappearing? I suggest you check your oil. Oil is fine. I check that regularly. As I do everything. But as for the coolant I only check the reservoir. Which I now realize is dumb.
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Apr 9, 2016 18:15
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indoflaven posted:Oil is fine. I check that regularly. As I do everything. The suggestion to check it is because if the head gasket is blown int he right way you'll have MORE "oil" than you expect. And after running it will look like a chocolate milkshake. I'm gonna guess it's a bad head or intake gasket. Time to pressure test the cooling system and/or just go right to the cooling system exhaust gas test.
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Apr 9, 2016 18:18
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The belt and sparkplugs were all wet from coolant.
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Apr 9, 2016 18:31
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H110Hawk posted:Ugh. I don't know what changed in "recent" cars but their seats physically hurt my neck and shoulders to sit in for any extended period of time. This is true in a 2015 Ford F-150 I drove for several days, and it's true in my 2016 PriusV. The problem is it takes a day or two of driving before whatever wrong angle builds up to the point of pain, but after that it's basically instant upon sitting down in it. This was not an issue in a 2003 or 2013 civic, or earlier editions of various cars ('98? Mazda Protege, 2000 VW Jetta4, 2009 Z4, earlier editions of F150/Expedition.) I did not notice it after test driving the car several times and sitting in the seat for 15 minutes in the lot just checking comfort. I have some neck arthritis and the canted forward headrests in newer cars really loving bothers me. I ended up swapping my 07' civics headrest with a black 04' accord headrest that was much less forward angled. I will risk the whiplash, its better than driving the car off a cliff or quitting driving to work I guess.
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Apr 9, 2016 18:41
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Sometimes leaks only manifest themselves when hot, but seem watertight at lower temperatures, so the car won't mark its territory when parked.
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Apr 9, 2016 18:42
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indoflaven posted:2000 Bonneville 3800 Gm supercharged GM intake gasket wasn't fixed on the 3.8L until 2005 redesign. They reintroduced the failure into the chevy cruze motor.
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Apr 9, 2016 19:22
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Pympede posted:I think trying to get money back on a job that happened 18 mos ago and was just a simple rotor turning sounds like a pretty poor idea. I'd save my breath and realize that brakes wear out through no fault of the dealership. Probably saving breath is good advice in general, yah. The part that got me hot yesterday was when she said "you're lucky you got 18 months, I've seen them only last 6". Tell me that at the time then. And give me the option to replace, even if it costs more at the time. I don't know the tradeoffs between resurfacing and replacing, I was under the impression that the brake system was probably good for another 50k when I left. Just seems like the general consensus is that replacing is going to be cheaper over the longer term, at least if you're paying someone to do it for you. Since labor is the big cost. And I'm in Denver, so probably driving down mountains at speed every weekend contributes to a minimum thickness rotor getting warped faster than usual... Although I'm always geared down and on the brakes as little as possible - apparently not enough though. Elmnt80 posted:early 2000's ford f-150s are the worst offenders in my area Hah, that's my truck. I guess I know what to avoid now on it, thanks guys.
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Apr 9, 2016 20:27
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Baddog posted:Probably saving breath is good advice in general, yah. If I drove in those types of conditions, I would learn to do it myself, or find a buddy who can do it for a 12 pack or something.
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Apr 9, 2016 20:53
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indoflaven posted:The belt and sparkplugs were all wet from coolant. So it's an external leak. On that car it's likely to be the intake gasket. Pressure test the cooling system and look for where it's coming from.
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Apr 9, 2016 21:01
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indoflaven posted:2000 Bonneville 3800 Gm supercharged Its your intake manifold gasket. They were notorious on those motors for like a decade of production. Youre burning the coolant thats why it isnt showing up in the oil, but its not like a head gasket failure because the coolant is coming into the intake runners before the valves, not dumping into the cylinder through the head gasket area. Its not terribly expensive to have it fixed but the supercharger option might make for more labor time.
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Apr 9, 2016 21:03
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Can anyone recommend a good book/thorough info source on taking an iron block LS from the scrap yard and making it put out like an actual LS? Something that covers all the nuances, I know the big things.
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Apr 9, 2016 21:25
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Eskaton posted:Can anyone recommend a good book/thorough info source on taking an iron block LS from the scrap yard and making it put out like an actual LS? Something that covers all the nuances, I know the big things. I just read project threads on LS1tech 
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Apr 9, 2016 21:30
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So, I have a 2002 Saab 95 that I am starting to REALLY hate. It runs fine but some much of the other stuff like the Windows, the ac/heat, the seats and such have electric controls so when something goes wrong it's an issue. What compounds it is that my brother in law is the one who sold it to me and when ever I give it to him m for repairs it takes like a week to get it back. Today, my seat suddenly starts going all the way back, almost so I can't reach the pedals. I try to put it back in place but it goes right back. Is there a way to fix it eqsily at home or at the very least manually get it to stay in place?
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Apr 9, 2016 21:32
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BigRed0427 posted:So, I have a 2002 Saab 95 that I am starting to REALLY hate. It runs fine but some much of the other stuff like the Windows, the ac/heat, the seats and such have electric controls so when something goes wrong it's an issue. What compounds it is that my brother in law is the one who sold it to me and when ever I give it to him m for repairs it takes like a week to get it back. Check the switch to see if its sticking. If that checks out, maybe you have a seat memory module, it may be possible to unplug it and still manually position the seat. Also never buy cars from family or friends.
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Apr 9, 2016 21:36
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The volvo 850 again. Engine codes aren't too useful since they are the same as the last time I checked them. One is a cam position sensor error so maybe that's an issue. More importantly I think is spark plugs. This looks fried doesn't it?
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Apr 9, 2016 21:50
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MonkeyBot posted:The volvo 850 again. Engine codes aren't too useful since they are the same as the last time I checked them. One is a cam position sensor error so maybe that's an issue. More importantly I think is spark plugs. This looks fried doesn't it? Yeah that's pretty much gone.
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Apr 9, 2016 21:53
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MonkeyBot posted:The volvo 850 again. Engine codes aren't too useful since they are the same as the last time I checked them. One is a cam position sensor error so maybe that's an issue. More importantly I think is spark plugs. This looks fried doesn't it? Next time make sure you get the bosch 4 prong plugs, for 4x the spark power!
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Apr 9, 2016 22:06
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Raluek posted:I just read project threads on LS1tech Yeah, I've read a lot of them. I just like books because it feels better than some dude on a forum.
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Apr 9, 2016 22:17
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Baddog posted:The part that got me hot yesterday was when she said "you're lucky you got 18 months, I've seen them only last 6". Tell me that at the time then. And give me the option to replace, even if it costs more at the time. To look at the glass as half full, at least she didn't say anything at all. I specifically asked my "service advisor" if we shouldn't just replace the rotors, and got a "Nah, you've got enough on them they should be good another couple years." Six months later they were beyond trashed. Same driving style. Same traffic. Same miles every week. Oh baby, love paying those labor hours twice in six months.
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Apr 9, 2016 23:59
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1999 Dodge Dakota 4WD 3.9 V6 When I drive, I get a 'shuck shuck shuck' noise coming from the right side - not all the time but very often, it feels like something is griding/rattling around. This stops when I apply the breaks. I've replaced both CV axles (they needed it anyways) and the rotors and pads. Then front brakes are fine, got a really good look at all the suspension up front and I didn't see anything that could cause it. I don't think it's coming from the front tires. Since the noise/grinding stops when I apply the brakes, and it's not the front/disc brakes - it has to be the rear drum brakes right? Taking break from that truck today but I just wanted to see if anyone had any insight on what this could be? I was sure it was the first CV joint, then the brakes, then the second CV joint but since it's still happening I am at a loss. Any help would be appreciated.
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Apr 10, 2016 00:21
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Raw_Beef posted:Its your intake manifold gasket. They were notorious on those motors for like a decade of production. Youre burning the coolant thats why it isnt showing up in the oil, but its not like a head gasket failure because the coolant is coming into the intake runners before the valves, not dumping into the cylinder through the head gasket area. This is correct. I just did this job on my great uncles car, supercharged and all.
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Apr 10, 2016 01:25
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bigperm posted:1999 Dodge Dakota It could be a wheel bearing. Try doing some aggressive S curves while going down a straight road. If the noise goes away as you pull hard in either direction its a wheel bearing, usually the side youre pulling to at that moment when the noise goes away. Obviously be safe while doing this. Or you can jack the vehicle up and spin the wheel by hand and see if you feel a rough resistance as it turns. A bad wheel bearing will be obvious, but one that isnt totally terrible will need to be under load while you spin it so the driving and S curve test is best to do first. If you suspect rear brakes just jack it up and turn the rear wheel while in neutral. Bad rear breaks is usually pretty obvious. Resistance while turning by hand, grinding noise etc. Pop the drum off and look inside if you can, sometimes a heavily worn drum puts a big lip on the inside edge and you cant get the drum off easily.
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Apr 10, 2016 02:51
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Raw_Beef posted:Also never buy Fixed. bigperm posted:1999 Dodge Dakota I'll put my money on a bent backing shield touching one of your discs.
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Apr 10, 2016 02:58
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My mom's car is a Chevy Aveo 2007. There was smoke when starting the car in the morning indicating an oil leak and the engine light flashed for a bit before turning off for the rest of the day. While she was at work I took the car in to pep boys since she refuses to not use big names, and did a diagnostic. The guys showed me the engine to see for myself, and there was sludge everywhere. The light was flashing because it was causing misfires and the wires were arcing, and we're all pretty sure my mom is lying about having had an oil change 5000 miles ago because it looks like frozen molasses and there's not really any oil left. What I'm wondering is if the shop is correct in that there's literally nothing we can do to save the car beyond replacing the engine? They claimed it was so bad they didn't even want to do an oil change or flush it in case they knock some of the sludge loose and it totally blows the engine. A coworker's roommate (mechanic) says it's totally fixable, so my boyfriend would like a second opinion on this before the car gets scrapped for $250. If it can be fixed for less than $1k I'd like to keep it since I have no car for myself, but I really have my doubts. Advice, goons?
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Apr 10, 2016 04:16
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Put oil in it and replace the plug wires. See if it runs. If it does keep changing the oil every 2-3k miles until it's not quite as nasty in there. Do not attempt to use any sort of oil flush. If it's as bad as you say sludge will break off and may clog smaller passages. Short duration oil changes are the best way to bring something like this back to life.
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Apr 10, 2016 04:26
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Raw_Beef posted:It could be a wheel bearing... Slavvy posted:I'll put my money on a bent backing shield touching one of your discs.
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Apr 10, 2016 04:37
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I meant what I said, unless dodges are really unusual and have no shield behind the front discs at all. They often get bent without you even noticing while you're dicking around with brakes and CV joints and the effect is usually exactly what you're describing, plus it's far more likely that the problem originated from the car being worked on and not just by coincidence. To elaborate: the disc doesn't actually stay in exactly the same plane as you drive the car, there is a certain amount of play/flex inherent to the wheel bearing which means the disc moves in and out in relation to the rest of the car depending on how the wheel is loaded. What this means is that sometimes the shield can be bent in a way that leads to it touching the disc only sometimes, like when you're turning in a certain direction or w/e. The fact that it goes away when you brake is because the disc is being clamped by the brakes and 'straightening' in relation to the steering knuckle so it isn't quite touching the shield any more. My two cents. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Apr 10, 2016 |
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Apr 10, 2016 04:41
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