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I'm firmly in the beginner-intermediate top rope climbing gym stage and I just went with the Black Diamond Solution. The BD Momentum is slightly cheaper and effectively the same only with adjustable leg straps. Fits well. It's light and I haven't died while using it so no complaints. https://www.rei.com/product/126507/black-diamond-solution-harness-mens https://www.rei.com/product/126508/black-diamond-momentum-harness-mens
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Jan 21, 2020 21:07
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Harnesses aren't really all that complicated, the only real difference is that some are heavier and have more padding, some are cheap and uncomfortable, and some are expensive and uncomfortable, but really light. I like my Adjama and I've never felt like it lacked some feature I might want, but whatever's probably fine.
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Jan 21, 2020 21:11
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Ive been climbing in a Petzl Adjama in the gym on and off for about 2 years, and am converting my BD Momentum, which was my canyoning harness, over to my outdoor climbing harness. Both would be fine for either application. I have too many harnesses.
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Jan 21, 2020 21:26
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M. Night Skymall posted:Harnesses aren't really all that complicated, the only real difference is that some are heavier and have more padding, some are cheap and uncomfortable, and some are expensive and uncomfortable, but really light. I like my Adjama and I've never felt like it lacked some feature I might want, but whatever's probably fine. I've been climbing in an Adjama for 10 years (I've gone through 2 of them over that period). I've done tons of TR, Sport lead, trad, and ice climbing in it, and never really felt like I needed a different feature set.
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Jan 21, 2020 22:31
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If you're looking for an all rounder harness to bring to an alpine enviroment you'll want adjustable leg loops - to accomodate for thicker pants, putting on crampons with the harness still on, and putting it on when crossing a glacier with boots still on you. Want to rack ice screws? Get one with caritool gear slots. Since you're a bigger guy, you will probably want to go for a padded, slightly wider harness. They can be a bit sweaty but rather that than getting bruised up whenever you fall in it. That being said, don't get a big wall harness. It'll suck walking up mountains with one of those on you. Key for when picking a harness is to try them out before buying one. Good gear shops should have a rope hanging in the shop you can clip into to feel how comfy the harness is when hanging off it for a longer period of time. Try them all! Even the womens! Try hanging with whatever thin pants you wear when climbing when its warm. Jeans will make most any harness feel comfy.
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Jan 22, 2020 10:00
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Met Tommy Caldwell at the gym today. That was... rather unexpected
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Jan 22, 2020 23:35
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If you're ever feeling fatalist you should browse the generic "climbing" equipment on Amazon and read the reviews
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Jan 27, 2020 21:53
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GQ put Alex Honold into thousands of dollars of clothes.    
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Jan 28, 2020 01:19
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I sent my first "3 hex" (V3-V4) problem last time I climbed, and I'm happy my old rear end is climbing more than just the loser problems for idiot babies like me now.
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Jan 28, 2020 01:21
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not like this, Alex
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Jan 28, 2020 01:36
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I say get that money while being dressed in a humiliating striped turtleneck desined for a toddler from the 1950s, personally
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Jan 28, 2020 01:44
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How did the photographer let him make the same perplexed face every time?
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Jan 28, 2020 04:36
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someone make a zoolander joke
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Jan 28, 2020 06:56
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I say get that money while being dressed in a humiliating striped turtleneck desined for a toddler from the 1950s, personally For sure. enraged_camel posted:someone make a zoolander joke I was definitely getting some Blue Steel vibes too lmao I've been working on a this orange problem my last few sessions:  but wow after only a few tries per night, the joints in my fingers - specifically the "last joints" before my fingernails - hurt. What can I do to protect myself?  physical therapy has been going well for my shoulder, but I don't want to gently caress up my fingers. But I'm close to sending it 
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Jan 28, 2020 |
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Jan 28, 2020 12:44
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Avoid those types of crimps for a while! Rest, recover, hydrate, avoid inflammatory foods, perhaps NSAID if the ache persists. When you climb, make sure to warm up properly, climb on less positive crimps and other hold types. Don't full crimp.
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Jan 28, 2020 13:38
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I say get that money while being dressed in a humiliating striped turtleneck desined for a toddler from the 1950s, personally I think he gives a lot of that money to charity anyway so yeah, get it.
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Jan 28, 2020 14:43
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:GQ put Alex Honold into thousands of dollars of clothes. Alex does not look healthy here
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Jan 28, 2020 21:04
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armorer posted:I use a Petzl Bug most of the time if I have to bring a bag up the wall with me. It'll hold a trad rack and rope (tied on the bottom w/straps). Water/food may or may not fit depending on your other gear. Typically my partner and I will split the load on the approach and either leave one pack at the base if the decent comes back past it, or put one bag in the bug if not. It's a small pack and sits high on your back so it's pretty easy to climb with. It also has a bunch of webbing loops in a line where you can clip extra gear if needed. Just bought the Bug. It's the new version with rope strap on top. It's got a sleeve for a water bladder but I've never had a bladder before. Anyone got suggestions? Measurments seem to support 2.5 liter 39×19×6 cm, but would a 3l fit aswell? (39x39x8)? Also, what's a good minmalist rope tarp? Not looking for a rope bag
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Jan 29, 2020 18:37
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Sigmund Fraud posted:Thanks all for the diff suggestions! An ikea bag, seriously. That said on mutli-pitch I don't bother with a tarp.
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Jan 29, 2020 18:53
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Sab669 posted:but wow after only a few tries per night, the joints in my fingers - specifically the "last joints" before my fingernails - hurt. What can I do to protect myself? found this article on Climbing.com - gonna try that finger warm up specifically tonight after I do my usual warmup (V0, V1, V2, easier V3 then just kinda climb whatever) e; Yea 5 minutes of cardio when I got to the gym + those finger exercises helped a lot tonight. Sab669 fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Jan 31, 2020 |
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Jan 31, 2020 00:59
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Sab669 posted:found this article on Climbing.com - gonna try that finger warm up specifically tonight after I do my usual warmup (V0, V1, V2, easier V3 then just kinda climb whatever) I do these and a lot of shoulder mobility and that seems to do the trick. The only time I find I have issues is if I'm going up a grade or screw my footing up when top roping and hang on harder than I should have. It is hard to tell though since I've only been climbing since September and I assume some soreness is part of progression.
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Jan 31, 2020 18:54
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So I'm probably going to get a hangboard in the next month or so. For a couple of reasons, I have to let go one of my weekly gym session which will bring me down to 2-3 a week. A hangboard would allow me to get that extra session at home and allow me to work on my biggest weakness (My fingers are particularly weak for my level of climbing). I'm aware of the risks and will be very cautious and will slowly build up to it while asking for help from experimented climbers and potentially from the coach I just decided to take a class from. My question is which hangboard should I get basically. I know the Beastmaker 1000 is considered the gold standard when it comes to "novice" hangboard, but it's a bit more expansive than I'd like. I'm looking at other options like the Prime Rib from metolius which has a a 38 23 and 15mm edge. This seems like it would be all I need, but I don't know anything so I might be dumb. The WoodGrips 2 also looks fine if it's a better option. Resin boards are not possible since they are too ugly for my girlfriend to tolerate them (unless I could find an all white model I guess) If the beastmaker 1000 is really the much better option then I could justify it I guess. Thanks in advance.
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Feb 1, 2020 14:18
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KingColliwog posted:So I'm probably going to get a hangboard in the next month or so. For a couple of reasons, I have to let go one of my weekly gym session which will bring me down to 2-3 a week. A hangboard would allow me to get that extra session at home and allow me to work on my biggest weakness (My fingers are particularly weak for my level of climbing). I'm aware of the risks and will be very cautious and will slowly build up to it while asking for help from experimented climbers and potentially from the coach I just decided to take a class from. Transgression/Progression are great if you wanna work on gradually bring down your min edge strength. Not so great are their sharp, plastic edges. I personally love the BM 1k/2k nut there is alot of dead real estate on them for me as I only work 3-4 fingers and never one arm. The monos/duos are unused and so are the middle edges. That being said, you'll prolly want to add weights after a while to keep progressing.
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Feb 1, 2020 16:15
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KingColliwog posted:So I'm probably going to get a hangboard in the next month or so. For a couple of reasons, I have to let go one of my weekly gym session which will bring me down to 2-3 a week. A hangboard would allow me to get that extra session at home and allow me to work on my biggest weakness (My fingers are particularly weak for my level of climbing). I'm aware of the risks and will be very cautious and will slowly build up to it while asking for help from experimented climbers and potentially from the coach I just decided to take a class from. This doesn't help with the cost, but the tension grindstone mk2 is easily the best hangboard I've ever used and I would recommend that over anything else.
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Feb 1, 2020 17:16
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Sigmund Fraud posted:Transgression/Progression are great if you wanna work on gradually bring down your min edge strength. Not so great are their sharp, plastic edges. I personally love the BM 1k/2k nut there is alot of dead real estate on them for me as I only work 3-4 fingers and never one arm. The monos/duos are unused and so are the middle edges. Thx The lack of edge variety for double full hand grips is what is making me wary of the BM. We have them at the gym and the deep pockets are too deep while the next one is quite a bit shallower. Most options seem to be for 1 handed or pockets which I don't think I'll be training for a while. The progression board is nice, but way too big and ugly for my place interrodactyl posted:This doesn't help with the cost, but the tension grindstone mk2 is easily the best hangboard I've ever used and I would recommend that over anything else. Wow that thing is nice and seems to be what I'd want in a board. Seems hard to find in Canada though (just found that tension ships to Canada... Will be hard to stop myself from buying it). It did get me to find the simple board by tension though, which isn't expensive and would be great for a begginer while allowing me to customize it later if I ever need to. Any opinion on the simple board? KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Feb 1, 2020 |
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Feb 1, 2020 19:56
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If you can get it, get a tension hangboard. I have an earlier iteration and it is great. I vastly prefer it to all the boards I've used at various gyms. Simpler options could also be good. Bare minimum is something with a single ~18-20mm edge. Features to have on top of that would be smaller edges. A larger edge can be nice for warming up but is unnecessary. You can also just warm up by pulling less hard on edges you normally train on. Definitely get wood. It is much easier on the skin. You can get strong off a single campus rung, just keep at it.
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Feb 2, 2020 01:31
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Thanks everyone. I think I'll get the simple board from tension with the jug - 20mm - 15mm setup. I can Always expand and get the smaller edges later if I ever feel the need, but I think it'll take a while for me to build up enough finger strenght to warrant getting the additional 10-8-6mm setup. It's relatively cheap too so it hits all the marks for me. If there's an official "SA approved" beginner how to get started hangboarding guide I'd like to know. I have read a lot of stuff and will consult my coach too, but I'm Always happy to get additional agreed upon great solid info ressources. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Feb 3, 2020 |
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Feb 3, 2020 15:37
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I would just download Crimpd and see what routines they offer
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Feb 3, 2020 20:41
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I always recommend the Progression/Transgression plan. Either min edge or max hang. A good start for max strength and neuromuscular recruitment: Hang 10 secs with 2 seconds of margin and then 3 min rest. Repeat 4-5 times. If it's too easy (=you have more than more than 2 seconds of margin for each hang), add more weight or use a smaller edge. Things get a tad more complex if you wish to work on pullups/lock offs/power endurance.
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Feb 4, 2020 07:39
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I went to a 'mentor/mentee' night at my gym and the guy who I got paired up with said my technique was just as good as his but I'm just fat. Which, true, but rude.
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Feb 8, 2020 00:27
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I went to a 'mentor/mentee' night at my gym and the guy who I got paired up with said my technique was just as good as his but I'm just fat. Which, true, but rude. We all need a friend like this. Too bad in my case, my friend who agrees that we could both climb much harder if wed lose weight is also just as likely to invite me for nachos after being disappointed in our poor performance.
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Feb 8, 2020 01:55
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I went to a 'mentor/mentee' night at my gym and the guy who I got paired up with said my technique was just as good as his but I'm just fat. Which, true, but rude. Better that than the other way round. Technique is far harder won than fitness or strength, but far more enduring.
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Feb 8, 2020 15:26
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I went to a 'mentor/mentee' night at my gym and the guy who I got paired up with said my technique was just as good as his but I'm just fat. Which, true, but rude. Hell, same.
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Feb 9, 2020 10:38
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So I've been climbing for around 6 years and I've plateaued at around v5-v6. I've decided to start hang board training. I've easily managed to find info on the workouts themselves but I can't find any info on when to actually do them. Should I be hang boarding on my rest days or on my climbing days? Currently my schedule is climbing M/W/F, antagonist training T/Th, and rest days on Sat/Sun. I'm not quite sure where I can fit it in.
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Feb 14, 2020 17:17
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Not on rest days. Depends on volume of hangboarding. High volume workout like repeaters, will probably need to scale back some climbing volume and/or intensity. Lower volume workout like max hangs can be very effectively integrated into a climbing session, ie warm up, work up to your flash level or so, do a few max hangs, then limit boulder. Always always always err on side of doing too little hangboarding vs. trying to eke out all the gains possible, especially being new to it. Think of your first few months if not year as being a trial period where your goal is to learn how your body responds to HBing, rather than your goal being to get your fingers as strong as possible. Easier said than done
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Feb 14, 2020 17:58
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Partial Octopus posted:So I've been climbing for around 6 years and I've plateaued at around v5-v6. I've decided to start hang board training. I've easily managed to find info on the workouts themselves but I can't find any info on when to actually do them. Rest days are for resting. Hangboard after you've warmed up but before you get to the bulk of your hard climbing.
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Feb 15, 2020 18:14
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Because of KingColliwog talking about hang boards so much, I started to use the one at my gym. Used it I think twice last week and twice this week - yesterday, most recently. Today I've had some acute pain / limited ROM in my right wrist. If I extend my arms out forward, like a zombie  , if I rotate my hands so that my thumb is pointing downwards towards my toe, or 'pivot' my hands so that my thumbs point towards my chest I experience some pain in the wrist/forearm. Specifically along the "outside" side, like alongside my pinky finger.Does this sound like a hangboard injury? I climb for about 60-90 minutes, 10-25 of cardio, then I've been doing all 4 fingers flat on the 'deepest' rung of a Beastmaker 1000, 5-7 seconds at a time for 3 times with a ~30-60 second break in between It could also be from my god awful posture and sitting at a desk at work and home. e; in this region 
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Feb 22, 2020 |
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Feb 21, 2020 23:35
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You hang w a straight, neutral wrist, right? Do you get any result from the hangboarding? I mean what you're doing is quite mild. How did you decide on deepest rung and times? It's not intensive enough for nerve recruitment and far too short for powerendurance training... Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Feb 22, 2020 |
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Feb 22, 2020 01:25
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As neutral as I can, yea. I watched a few videos and they all suggested starting for very low periods of time, although I'm having hard time finding them in my YouTube history now. I tried the other 2 holds and they didn't feel very good. And I mispoke, 5-10 seconds with a short short break in between hangs, then a 30-60 second rest between sets. I did make a lot of progress on a crimpy problem that's been giving me some trouble today, so 
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Feb 22, 2020 03:12
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Found what I was thinking of - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P984-xyav84&t=454s
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Feb 22, 2020 03:19
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