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Pompous Rhombus posted:Whoa... Ask them what they'd take for the 80mm Componon-S or APO Rodagon, might be interested. I just went down to their lab to check the stuff out. An aladdins cave of stuff, kind of amazing and overwhelming - It's Patrick Demarchelier's old print studio, probably the largest dedicated darkroom space I have seen in years. I picked up the Componon-S 80mm, they wouldn't budge off $90 for it, but as it is $350 new and it was still in the box I went for it. Especially as if you buy anything they let you take as much opened boxes of paper and also chemicals and random crap as you can carry. I got 2 almost full 50 boxes of Ilford 16x20 fiber, 2 cans of LPD and 6 packets of Dektol as well as enough hypo check and wetting agent to last me years. Not bad for $90 total. They have one more of the 80mm Componon-S lenses also boxed.
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Jul 5, 2011 21:39
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For some reason, when I press the meter switch on my Spotmatic SP I just bought, the little lever that presses the stop-down pin down stays forwards, keeping it stopped down. It seems to return some time after I press it and set it down, and then get stuck again when I press it the next time. It seems like the camera would be usable by manually stopping it down, though (or focusing with it stopped down). Is this a common problem with Spotmatics?
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Jul 5, 2011 21:43
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mysticp posted:I just went down to their lab to check the stuff out. An aladdins cave of stuff, kind of amazing and overwhelming - It's Patrick Demarchelier's old print studio, probably the largest dedicated darkroom space I have seen in years. I picked up the Componon-S 80mm, they wouldn't budge off $90 for it, but as it is $350 new and it was still in the box I went for it. Especially as if you buy anything they let you take as much opened boxes of paper and also chemicals and random crap as you can carry. I got 2 almost full 50 boxes of Ilford 16x20 fiber, 2 cans of LPD and 6 packets of Dektol as well as enough hypo check and wetting agent to last me years. Not bad for $90 total. Whoa, nice. It's a good price but unfortunately I've gotten some screaming deals on other stuff this past week and don't have as much money to play around with. If I wasn't selling/getting rid of my darkroom stuff (anyone around Tampa or Atlanta) I'd be all over it just the same, just don't know if I'll have room for a darkroom at my new place.
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Jul 5, 2011 22:25
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quote:Peak grain focuser $20.00 Yes, No, Maybe? I'm trying to put together a nice B&W 4x5 Kit. Will this fit the bill?
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Jul 6, 2011 00:26
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ShotgunWillie posted:Yes, No, Maybe? That Ilford head is a awesome. Would be perfect with 4x5. Also a top notch lens. Make sure the ilford head has the correct light box for the enlarger you are getting, though I am assuming it's a complete package. It's probably obvious, but you will need a decent easel and all the other sundries you need to wet print (timer, trays, washer). Also if you want to use those 6x6 and 35mm carriers I would invest in an 80mm lens and maybe a 50mm (though you could get away without the 50) Check the wet print thread as well. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3421756
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Jul 6, 2011 03:17
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mysticp posted:That Ilford head is a awesome. Would be perfect with 4x5. Also a top notch lens. Make sure the ilford head has the correct light box for the enlarger you are getting, though I am assuming it's a complete package. I have most of the equipment for a darkroom, but just got a large format (4x5) camera and figured I had better get an enlarger that can handle it. I assembled parts from two different Omega Enlargers; there was an enlarger chassis without a head that was attached to a free standing bottom and that combination Omega Condenser/Ilford head attached to an XL sized chassis attached to a huge desk that I combined to make a freestanding enlarger with a decent head. I'll make sure that everything fits when I go back, but I believe that they were both Omega 5s. I assume that a 4x5 lightbox/condenser will work for making 35 and 6x6 prints as well?
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Jul 6, 2011 04:29
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ShotgunWillie posted:I have most of the equipment for a darkroom, but just got a large format (4x5) camera and figured I had better get an enlarger that can handle it. You should have a different light mixing box for 4x5, 6x6 and 35mm. With those it'll work great for 35 and 6x6 I would just get a shorter focal length lens so you don't need to have the enlarger head so high. If it only has the 4x5 then it will still work fine, but it won't be as efficient and you may lose some contrast, but you can compensate for it.
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Jul 6, 2011 05:03
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Can someone help me out with an updated chemical list, the one in the OP says they are out of stock. I want to do bw 120 film now. I have a changing bag and a developing tank. I just need a list of chemicals, and do you guys buy those air collapsible brown jugs to store it in?
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Jul 6, 2011 17:30
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:Can someone help me out with an updated chemical list, the one in the OP says they are out of stock. I want to do bw 120 film now. I have a changing bag and a developing tank. I just need a list of chemicals, and do you guys buy those air collapsible brown jugs to store it in? You mean besides the usual? Developer stop bath (water) Fixer with hardener for film. water rinse Perma Wash, also called Hypo Clear 5 minute running water bath Photo Flo, although I've heard people also use Jet Dry.
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Jul 6, 2011 17:49
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Anyone have any experience with the Canon A-1? I have an AE-1 right now, but a friend is trying to get rid of an A-1 cheap. It looks like the meter on it doesn't function when in fully manual mode? Or is there any reason to shoot in fully manual mode since it has aperture/shutter priority modes? Hm. I'm so used to my fully manual AE-1, I don't want to feel like I'm cheating in any way.
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Jul 6, 2011 19:28
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:Can someone help me out with an updated chemical list, the one in the OP says they are out of stock. I want to do bw 120 film now. I have a changing bag and a developing tank. I just need a list of chemicals, and do you guys buy those air collapsible brown jugs to store it in? I'd say, when just starting out, just get any developer. You can always get some more different ones later on. I mixed my first powder developer the other day (ID-11) and it was honestly quite a hassle. It required me to get a large container and heat the water, wait for the solution to cool down afterwards, and have bottles ready to store the stock solution. It's much easier to start out with a liquid concentrate IMO. Those also keep better. I don't know if Kodak HC-110 is the same, but Ilfotec HC is certainly a syrup, and very hard to pour accurately. You really want to use a syringe to measure it. (I need to get one.) Alternatively, get a less concentrated developer 
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Jul 6, 2011 19:40
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nielsm posted:I'd say, when just starting out, just get any developer. You can always get some more different ones later on. I bummed a couple 10mL syringes off a nurse I met last year (she had some in her purse), they work great for measuring HC-110 out.
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Jul 6, 2011 19:43
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:Can someone help me out with an updated chemical list, the one in the OP says they are out of stock. I want to do bw 120 film now. I have a changing bag and a developing tank. I just need a list of chemicals, and do you guys buy those air collapsible brown jugs to store it in? Kodak HC110 B&W developer Can be mixed per use (but as said, you may need a syringe for accurate measurement) Kodak Kodafix B&W fixer Can be mixed a liter at a time, keep it in an old soda bottle or something (that's well rinsed out and stored in a cool dark place like under your bathroom sink) Heico Perma Wash B&W hypoclearing agent Pre-mixed. Kodak Photo Flo Pre-mixed. Boom, you're developing B&W film (assuming you have reels/tank/measuring devices/clean water)
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Jul 6, 2011 19:47
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Walgreens sells 10mL oral syringes real cheap, great for HC-110.
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Jul 6, 2011 20:11
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I would recommend going to wherever your local photo store is and buying the chemicals they stock, that way you don't need to mess about with shipping specific stuff when you are just starting out. You will likely never have to change which fixer or wash you use. As you progress you will definitely want to change up your developer and agitation. It's pretty dramatic what you can do with different developer and film combos. Just concentrate on the basics for now. Most everyone will say don't use a stop bath, I disagree, it keeps development more specific and also means you don't exhaust your fixer so quickly. Stop is cheap and one kodak indicator bottle of stop will last you 20x as long as a bottle of HC110. Though it isn't the end of the world if you don't use it.
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Jul 6, 2011 20:12
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Hey, I'm far from civilization for the next six weeks, but I can still receive mail. What's the best and cheapest site to buy film from (preferably enough to last me six weeks!), and is there a good site to send film away to get developed? I'm looking to pay as little as possible, 15 bucks for a pack of 24 exposure rolls and then another 15 bucks to develop each one locally was killing me, so I'd like to switch to doing everything online permanently. Any recommendations?
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Jul 6, 2011 22:50
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Money Walrus posted:Hey, I'm far from civilization for the next six weeks, but I can still receive mail. What's the best and cheapest site to buy film from (preferably enough to last me six weeks!), and is there a good site to send film away to get developed? I'm looking to pay as little as possible, 15 bucks for a pack of 24 exposure rolls and then another 15 bucks to develop each one locally was killing me, so I'd like to switch to doing everything online permanently. Color or black and white? Color, you could try Ultrafine or Ebay, but you run the risk of getting some color shift from older badly stored film, and you won't save much over just ordering from Adorama. B&W, you should order Arista Premium 400 or Legacy Pro 100 from Freestyle Photo
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Jul 7, 2011 03:32
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Protip: Don't get lured into the trap of thinking you'll be fine with a tank that fits just one film. Eventually you'll be sitting with a stash of undeveloped rolls and hate doing them one at a time. I'm really regretting not having spent the extra £1.50 on a Paterson 3-reel tank instead of the "universal" 2-reel one, having shot 10 rolls of 120 film over the weekend. Also, the trick of fitting two rolls of 120 on a single reel: Theoretically it works, you can load two rolls onto a single reel without getting any overlap. Unfortunately, they love to creep during agitation. I tried it once and I'm not trying it again; I don't want any more partially underdeveloped rolls.
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Jul 7, 2011 04:13
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nielsm posted:Protip: Don't get lured into the trap of thinking you'll be fine with a tank that fits just one film. Eventually you'll be sitting with a stash of undeveloped rolls and hate doing them one at a time.  
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Jul 7, 2011 04:19
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orenji fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Aug 23, 2023 |
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Jul 7, 2011 06:21
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The EFS mount is only for APS-C digital sensors, so don't go near that. I would get either a 35mm F2 or a 50mm 1.8, both EF mounts and both reasonably cheap, though the 50mm is really cheap but would be great on that camera, especially with Ilford B&W film. You could get L glass, but depends on how serious you are about Canon gear really.
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Jul 7, 2011 06:26
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orenji fucked around with this message at 10:10 on Aug 23, 2023 |
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Jul 7, 2011 06:39
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If the 7D lens is an EFS mount then no. Though anything you get for the Rebel will work on your 7D. Both of the lenses I mentioned will be considerably better than the 35-80, which is basically an old kit lens. I would get the 35mm, a great walk around lens for street shooting on a film camera and it'll give you a close to 50mm equivalent on the 7D.
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Jul 7, 2011 06:49
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orenji fucked around with this message at 10:09 on Aug 23, 2023 |
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Jul 7, 2011 06:51
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how good are older nikon lenses in comparison to pentax takumars of a similar vintage? I want a Nikon FM2N, but I just got this Spotmatic and I'm not sure which one I want to invest in
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Jul 7, 2011 07:22
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x-pro'ed a roll of ektachrome 100vs and...   The colors 
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Jul 7, 2011 07:34
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mysticp posted:I would get either a 35mm F2 or a 50mm 1.8, both EF mounts and both reasonably cheap, though the 50mm is really cheap but would be great on that camera, especially with Ilford B&W film. You could get L glass, but depends on how serious you are about Canon gear really.
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Jul 7, 2011 09:31
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atomicthumbs posted:how good are older nikon lenses in comparison to pentax takumars of a similar vintage? I want a Nikon FM2N, but I just got this Spotmatic and I'm not sure which one I want to invest in The Takumar lenses are excellent. Their 50/1.4 set the standard for fast fifties, and the 35/3.5 is one of the sharpest lenses I have ever used. The Super coating is very good, the Super Multi Coating is decades ahead of its competition. The Nikon will be newer, with a faster shutter, an LED meter, and will give you access to newer lens designs (Takumars are 60s era, obviously). If you want long telephoto lenses, ultrawides, or zooms I'd get the nikon. For lenses of the same vintage, it'd really be a tossup and probably dependent on the specific lens design. It's worth owning a Spotmatic purely for the 35/3.5. Unless I was actually shooting at f/2-f/2.8 I would take the 35/3.5 over a faster 35 any day of the week. In my opinion they're way undervalued because they're slow. They'll rise in price when they're discovered by the NEX crowd, because it'll make a sharp normal lens if you can tolerate a small aperture. It's also a great moderately wide lens lens for Canon 5D users. There's some resolution tests here. In my experience, it is sharp wide open and brutally sharp a stop down and has excellent bokeh. Also available in K-mount (SMC Pentax 35mm f/3.5) and medium format (SMC Pentax 6x7 75mm f/4.5). I absolutely love my Nikkor AI 105/2.5, it is very sharp wide open on an APS-C sensor. It would probably make a good astrophotography lens. From what I've read, the Takumar teles aren't quite as good. The SMC Takumar 50/1.4 is great too. Their prices have spiked up to $130 or so recently, though. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Jul 8, 2011 |
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Jul 7, 2011 13:51
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I finally remembered to ask for no adjustments when developing/scanning my film, and the results are waaaay better. My blacks are actually black and the whites white, rather than this muddy in between I was getting before. Kicking myself for forgetting before.
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Jul 7, 2011 23:29
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Got my first scans back from Ritz. I specifically asked for no auto-enhance, but the scans came back way over-sharpened with blown histograms. Eh whatever, I'm still happy with the price and I found out that they have a membership program for 10% discounts. Next time I'm going to ask for a different person. Photo dump: all taken with my Nikon F100 w/ 35mm F2 D. Film is Ektar 100.  FH000004 by ksulli25, on Flickr  FH000013 by ksulli25, on Flickr  FH000026 by ksulli25, on Flickr  FH000024 by ksulli25, on Flickr  FH000022 by ksulli25, on Flickr  FH000025 by ksulli25, on Flickr  FH000033 by ksulli25, on Flickr That last one is a picture of me with my FM2.
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Jul 8, 2011 05:27
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Processed some and printed film today, including a wedding and some random shots   
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Jul 8, 2011 06:30
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I really need to get an enlarger and do some wet prints in my bathroom. I think the last one is a bit too dark. I would print the whites whiter, then burn in the highlights.
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Jul 8, 2011 08:03
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Paul MaudDib posted:I really need to get an enlarger and do some wet prints in my bathroom. Yeah I agree, I was tempted to not even post it as I wanted to have another session printing the negative as it's pretty obvious there is a ton more detail there. Will go again on saturday. This was also the first time I had scanned anything I had printed, usually I just negative scan, but I think I am over that with b&w.
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Jul 8, 2011 08:07
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If you have the space and gear to do it, wet prints look way better. I'd rather have real optics over a consumer grade scanner any day.
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Jul 8, 2011 08:27
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Urgh. Trying to pack up for a dayhike in the White Mountains, got my usual big camera bag loaded up and then realized that I'd probably hate carrying it around all day long. The hell with the telephotos and the dSLR, too heavy. gently caress the tripod. After an hour of unpacking and repacking the bags, I think this setup will do alright today: Pentax K1000 around my neck, M42 adapter, Helios 58mm F2 + yellow filter, tiny little Tele-Westenar 135mm F3.5 in the bag. Bolsey B rangefinder for weird forest shots and wider angles. Ansco Titan 6x6 folder for big things. Plus a dozen rolls of B/W, slide, and color in both formats. This fits into my smaller bag, which then fits into the top of my hiking pack, but it's still pretty damned cumbersome.  drat you camera stuff!
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Jul 8, 2011 17:25
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Deciding what gear to take is a terrible burden. I've ended up with different cameras for different purposes: General use: Pentax 67 + 55/4 + 105/2.4 Sports/Action/fast shooting: Pentax ME + 50/1.4 + 35/3.5 Low light: Yashica Lynx 14E Car/pocket camera: Olympus XA or Ikonta 521/16 w/ 3.5 Novar Portraits: Pentax 67 + 105/2.4 + 150/2.8 Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Jul 8, 2011 |
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Jul 8, 2011 18:33
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So, I've helped out with developing numerous times when my photographer ex lived with me, but she took all the chemicals and I'm trying to re-buy it all and try my hand at solo developing. If I do the following will I have something passable? (Using the developing time for T-Max 400 as an example) HC-110("B") for 5:30, agitate every minute Running water for 1:00 Kodafix for 5:00, agitate for 30s then every minute Running water for 5:00 Heico Perma Wash for 2:00 Running water for 5:00 Photo-Flo for 0:30 If I mix up a liter of fixer, I can keep using it as long as it passes the clip test, yeah? What about hypo clearing agent? Is that reusable?
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Jul 8, 2011 21:39
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I'll fix this up for you.QPZIL posted:HC-110("B") for 5:30, agitate every 30 seconds I changed your fix time to 8 mins because tabular grained films like TMax take longer to fix. QPZIL posted:If I mix up a liter of fixer, I can keep using it as long as it passes the clip test, yeah? QPZIL posted:What about hypo clearing agent? Is that reusable? I don't think so. Either way, I don't. That stuff is mixed like, 64:1, so it goes an incredibly long way. It's false economy to reuse it.
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Jul 8, 2011 22:04
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If you use a non-hardening fixer like Ilford Rapid Fixer you can skip the Perma Wash.
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Jul 8, 2011 22:18
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Ciro-Flex posted:If you use a non-hardening fixer like Ilford Rapid Fixer you can skip the Perma Wash. Is that a general thing for "rapid" fixers? I use a tetenal rapid fixer and I've never used perma wash. e: ..and my negs seem fine.
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Jul 8, 2011 22:39
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