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techknight posted:Yeah, you can definitely smooth ABS that way but some people go further and do acetone vapour smoothing (requiring heat) which gives a very even, smooth, and shiny look to parts I guess I haven't seen the difference between the two methods. The cold bath parts I have seen were really smooth.
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Aug 18, 2016 01:58
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jubjub64 posted:I guess I haven't seen the difference between the two methods. The cold bath parts I have seen were really smooth. My bad - I misread what you saying and thought you meant dampening a paper towel and directly wiping a surface (which I've done for some sword props). I actually hadn't heard of people using cold acetone vapour - maybe it's a speed thing?
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Aug 18, 2016 02:06
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Yeah, it's just speed. Acetone evaporates at room temp, but it evaporates really quickly on a stove just before it catches fire. Whoever it was that pointed out just using the heated bed on the printer, that's a good plan if you insist on heating it indoors, especially when the alternative is an open flame.
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Aug 18, 2016 03:09
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Not sure if my reply a few days ago came through or not but thanks for the info anyway! I'll probably continue down the path of using the e waste printer as a basic reference design. At least until I get bored with it. When I get some time I'm going to strip some stuff that I found which missed the cull a couple of years ago including a couple of older inkjet printers.
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Aug 19, 2016 00:25
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In my efforts to re-apply the adhesive to my PEI sheet, I just got done spending about 1.5 hours removing the PEI from the glass plate. Separating PEI from glass was pretty fast and straight forward using lighter fluid. Actually getting the adhesive off the plate was the hard part. I tried lighter fluid, olive oil (recommened as goo-off alternative), magic eraser pads, brillo pads, and paper towels without much success. The thing that wound up actually working was Acetone and a razor plade. Also recommended are powdered latex gloves, a 3M mask with VOC filter, an entire roll of paper towels, and good ventilation. Use lots of acetone (I would use about half a table spoon at a time, scrape till it dried, repeat). Paper towels and acetone were good for getting the final streaks and residue off. Glass looks brand new aside from a few tiny scratches from razor blade. Now to go re-apply and hopefully not gently caress it up this time. hayden. fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Aug 20, 2016 |
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Aug 20, 2016 03:49
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Yeah, acetone takes care of a lot of the 3M adhesives we use, turns them into easily scrapable jelly. Also, while acetone is definitely an inhalation risk with heat and enclosed spaces, it's actually quite non toxic. Your liver is very good at breaking it down, and your body has this whole acetone cycle it goes through.
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Aug 20, 2016 03:51
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So I picked up this guy for $50, which even for a cruddy printer is a great deal: Really damned quiet compared to my Prusa and Makerbot: 
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Aug 20, 2016 04:51
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Armadillo attempt #2. New nozzle, bed re-leveled, sanded,etc. Test cube ok, once I slowed it down. Larger print, the Bowden started struggling about 1 hour in. It seems like when the bowden starts absorbing the heat from the Nema, the filament will get soft enough that it can't handle it. I could assist it through. Now, I'm also currently working in a ~32C ambient environment which may not be helping. I'll try one more time sticking a fan on the Bowden.
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Aug 20, 2016 07:52
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Geirskogul posted:Yeah, acetone takes care of a lot of the 3M adhesives we use, turns them into easily scrapable jelly. I had read this but the can is also plastered with "HARMFUL VAPORS" so I didn't risk it. Got the PEI applied pretty well this time, still having lifting problems with ABS. Cleaned the poo poo out of it with isopropyl and there's really no bubbles in either the adhesive or the thermal padding between the glass and the stock Buildtak. Bed is at 90C, trying at 100C now which I think is the max for the maker select. Nozzle is close enough to bed that there's a pretty good drag moving paper under it. I guess next step is removing the Buildtak to make heat transfer to glass/PEI better. hayden. fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Aug 20, 2016 |
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Aug 20, 2016 16:55
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Monoprice has a delta kit now. http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=15840
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Aug 20, 2016 20:32
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Tempted to get a new extruder. Had a look at the Bondtech but that would just be silly. Alternative is the E3D titan. Anyone else have any suggestions? This would be for a Rostock Max.
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Aug 20, 2016 21:01
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Tempted to get a new extruder. Had a look at the Bondtech but that would just be silly. Are you using the stock head, or...? I'm super happy with my e3d v6. Although I did find a cool single-nozzle, triple-filament bowden extruder option with a mount for the rostock, if you want to do something crazy...
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Aug 20, 2016 21:22
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Nope, also using the E3D v6...but after the issues with the Armadillo filament, I want something easier to work with. It may just be as simple as cleaning up the drive gear, which I will do tonight, but it'll be a little bit of a pain to get to, hence looking for alternatives.
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Aug 20, 2016 21:36
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I have no doubt it would do nothing but worsen your headaches, but do this and give us a trip report  http://reprap.org/wiki/Diamond_Hotend
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Aug 20, 2016 21:56
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Bad Munki posted:I have no doubt it would do nothing but worsen your headaches, but do this and give us a trip report That, 3 Bondtechs, and the branch of Marlin that supports filament mixing codes.
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Aug 20, 2016 23:05
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Just a follow up about the $50 M3D I bought. Its actually got decent print quality, and its quiet as hell. If it wasn't for the size limitations and its slow speed, I'd say its actually a decent printer
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Aug 21, 2016 16:54
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hayden. posted:I had read this but the can is also plastered with "HARMFUL VAPORS" so I didn't risk it. Right, I forgot to mention to remove the buildtak first. I usually print ABS at 100-110 and it sticks really well. Did you already mention what your first layer height was? Also, each side of the PEI has a different surface, one is more matte and the other is glossy. I don't think it would make an appreciable difference but maybe look into that if nothing else works. jubjub64 fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Aug 21, 2016 |
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Aug 21, 2016 18:17
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Tempted to get a new extruder. Had a look at the Bondtech but that would just be silly. I'm really happy with the Titan, though I've only used it in direct mode (no bowden). It's able to handle anything, from the softest ninjaflex up to swollen oversized 3mm PLA. Really well designed.
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Aug 21, 2016 18:45
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Trying not to panic here, but I'm pretty certain I screwed up and I'm not sure how bad. I'm using a Maker Select v2 and I'm pretty much a complete newbie at this (as you'll be able to tell from the rest of my post). After one of my many botched print jobs I didn't realize that I had a wad of melted filament attached to the end of my extruder. It is now dried and can't be pried off. Does anyone have any suggestions for what I need to do next? And to save time don't worry about trying to help me understand I screwed up- I've already covered that myself. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Aug 22, 2016 01:14
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FuriousAngle posted:Trying not to panic here, but I'm pretty certain I screwed up and I'm not sure how bad. I'm using a Maker Select v2 and I'm pretty much a complete newbie at this (as you'll be able to tell from the rest of my post). Heat gun and scrape it off.
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Aug 22, 2016 01:17
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CommieGIR posted:Heat gun and scrape it off. Awesome, thanks. Since I don't have a heat gun I'll need to purchase one. Will this do the trick? Looking for something cheap and Amazon Prime-applicable.
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Aug 22, 2016 01:22
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FuriousAngle posted:Trying not to panic here, but I'm pretty certain I screwed up and I'm not sure how bad. I'm using a Maker Select v2 and I'm pretty much a complete newbie at this (as you'll be able to tell from the rest of my post). Meh, that happens. If the blob's not too big, just heat up the extruder again so it softens, then pull it off with pliers. If there's still some goo stuck on, use a brass brush to scrub it off. If the blob's really big and is attached to parts that won't heat up, then yeah, go at it with a heat gun and see how you make out. I've seen blobs big enough that the whole extruder had to be thrown out (think like the size of a golf ball) but I doubt yours is that bad. In the future, the reason that happens is usually poor leveling and/or poor first-layer adhesion. Some of the filament doesn't stick to the bed, so it curls up, and the extruder runs through it and picks it up, and it just keeps on building and building. Make sure your first layer is really well calibrated.
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Aug 22, 2016 01:30
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FuriousAngle posted:Trying not to panic here, but I'm pretty certain I screwed up and I'm not sure how bad. I'm using a Maker Select v2 and I'm pretty much a complete newbie at this (as you'll be able to tell from the rest of my post). If it's just at the hot end/heated block it's not a big deal. If it's on the tip it'll automatically be wiped off onto the bed as it's doing the next print (and you it pick it off then), or you can use your controller software to heat up the hot end to printing temp and wipe it off with a wadded paper towel (don't burn yourself). e:fb
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Aug 22, 2016 01:34
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rawrr posted:If it's just at the hot end/heated block it's not a big deal. If it's on the tip it'll automatically be wiped off onto the bed as it's doing the next print (and you it pick it off then), or you can use your controller software to heat up the hot end to printing temp and wipe it off with a wadded paper towel (don't burn yourself). Sagebrush posted:Meh, that happens. If the blob's not too big, just heat up the extruder again so it softens, then pull it off with pliers. If there's still some goo stuck on, use a brass brush to scrub it off. Thanks both of you! I'll try heating up the filament and pulling it off with pliers. After that I'll try to get better with the leveling. I think that's the thing that's really the hardest thing I've had to deal with in a long time.
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Aug 22, 2016 01:48
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Yup, crank the temp on the extruder and let it heat for a bit, then use pliers to remove it. Also, you might wanna buy a cheap soldering iron. It'll help remove clogs from the inside of the tube (plug the iron in, leave it touching the side of the nozzle for a bit, and then use the smallest hex wrench they gave you to push it out). I got one from harbor freight, and even without the normal 20-25% off coupon it was like 5$.
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Aug 22, 2016 01:52
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Armadillo attempt #2. New nozzle, bed re-leveled, sanded,etc. Test cube ok, once I slowed it down. Larger print, the Bowden started struggling about 1 hour in. It seems like when the bowden starts absorbing the heat from the Nema, the filament will get soft enough that it can't handle it. I could assist it through. Now, I'm also currently working in a ~32C ambient environment which may not be helping. Attempt #3. Cleaned the extruder, but as I did that, I discovered that the the filament was getting bent between the drive gear and the bowden tube and that's what's causing the stoppages. Slowed it right down, printed 2 smaller parts and it got stuck on the 3rd :/. I'll order a titan tonight.
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Aug 22, 2016 02:17
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Armadillo is a flexible filament, right? I tried several different extruder designs and had no luck with flexible stuff until I got a Titan. Took a small amount of calibration with the Titan to get it dialed in, and now it just goes. Ninjaflex ain't no thing. Super important tip, though: the extruder gear tension is critical to getting proper extrusion of floppy filaments with the Titan. For Ninjaflex, you want to unscrew the tensioner entirely (so it's at its loosest setting), then turn it back in exactly one turn. That's where I am able to print reliably. If you go too loose, it just stops extruding, and if you go too tight, it pushes it out of the ideal extrusion path and binds. Harder/stiffer filaments require you to dial the tension up appropriately, though, so they don't slip.
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Aug 22, 2016 02:29
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You can try printing something like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:439617 to take out the gap between the drive gear and the start of the bowden tube
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Aug 22, 2016 02:30
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Sagebrush posted:Armadillo is a flexible filament, right? I tried several different extruder designs and had no luck with flexible stuff until I got a Titan. Took a small amount of calibration with the Titan to get it dialed in, and now it just goes. Ninjaflex ain't no thing. Somewhat flexible yes. A lot stiffer than Ninjaflex, though.
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Aug 22, 2016 05:53
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I finally stuck that Smoothieboard into my cheap rear end CTC printer, like after nine months. It has all those fancy things, including PID autotune for the heaters. Of course you're tuning to a specific setpoint. Given the temperature difference between some materials, it'd require different PIDs for best results. How do you guys do it? Put the PIDs in the different profiles of the slicer, right? (There appear to be M-codes for that.) Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Aug 22, 2016 |
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Aug 22, 2016 12:44
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Combat Pretzel posted:I finally stuck that Smoothieboard into my cheap rear end CTC printer, like after nine months. You can if you want, but most people just put whatever temperature readout on their specific printer works best for a given material after running some basic cubes/bridging tests.
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Aug 22, 2016 14:04
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Just wondering, because PIDs will maybe diverge a bit for a material that runs around 190°C and one that runs at 250°C, one might cause oscillation on the other. It's already a marked improvement going from hysteresis on my (clone?) Mightyboard to PID control on the Smoothieboard. No more ribbing due to aluminium plate bucking from heat fluctuations.
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Aug 22, 2016 14:22
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Saw this on reddit:
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Aug 22, 2016 16:24
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Has anyone used the "Tough 3D Ink" from M3D? I'm trying to figure out a good way to finish parts. It always ends up with little strings and irregularities. It's slightly flexible, but hard to do anything with as far as sanding or filing. Just curious if anyone has any experience with it.
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Aug 22, 2016 17:03
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According to this, https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/m3d-the-micro-3d-printer/topic:5734 Use code FLX. LOL at there being a printer so locked down that the slicer for it has to use codes for settings instead of them just printing the settings to use on the loving spool like every other filament manufacturer out there.
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Aug 22, 2016 17:14
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Wade Wilson posted:According to this, https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/m3d-the-micro-3d-printer/topic:5734 Yeah. I got my M3D before I realized there were better options for the money. I can get it to work, I was just hoping someone else knew of a good way to clean up the prints.
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Aug 22, 2016 17:23
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Funzo posted:Yeah. I got my M3D before I realized there were better options for the money. Is there anything approaching decent in the >100 dollar range? The 350 Maker select is still a bit higher than I'd like for just playing around, giving it a try.
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Aug 22, 2016 18:12
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Golluk posted:Is there anything approaching decent in the >100 dollar range? The 350 Maker select is still a bit higher than I'd like for just playing around, giving it a try. Well, pretty much everything is >100 
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Aug 22, 2016 18:27
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I managed to get a good Armadillo print by creating a duct for a desk fan and pointing it right at my extruder/filament path. But I just remembered I left the roll out last night and it's going to be a soggy mess again noooooooooo
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Aug 22, 2016 18:37
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Golluk posted:Is there anything approaching decent in the >100 dollar range? The 350 Maker select is still a bit higher than I'd like for just playing around, giving it a try. I wouldn't trust any sub-$100 printer to do anything but burn down any room it was left printing in. There is this one for right at $200, but it's the bare minimum I'd suggest. http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=15365&seq=1&format=2 Also, any given Monoprice printer has a 30-day money-back return/refund policy if you aren't happy with it, which is why I put it above even some of the other similarly priced printers out there people point at on Ebay that are moderately cheaper. No point in a newbie getting something if they end up with a multi-hundred dollar paper weight if they discover the hobby isn't for them less than 30 days into it.
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Aug 22, 2016 21:20
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