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I'm never climbing outside. 
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Mar 5, 2020 22:43
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remote control carnivore posted:Go to Potrero Chico and you can experience the horror of 10” long centipedes coming out of what you thought was a great hold! I've been an exclusive gym rat in my climbing career and was just considering making a trip outdoors for the first time but nope sorry I like climate controlled environments without snakes and centipedes.
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Mar 5, 2020 22:43
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On Terra Firma posted:I've been an exclusive gym rat in my climbing career and was just considering making a trip outdoors for the first time but nope sorry I like climate controlled environments without snakes and centipedes. There’s also bats!
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Mar 5, 2020 23:20
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remote control carnivore posted:There’s also bats! And beads. Maybe bees?
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Mar 5, 2020 23:41
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I once had a climbing partner scared off a route by a weasel. We think it killed a nearby rat to commandeer its nest on a ledge on the opposite side of a crack.
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Mar 5, 2020 23:53
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gently caress I encountered a few spooky spiders during my first few outdoor sessions last year and I completely forgot that that's going to be a concern again real soon  I am such a wimp about bugs
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Mar 6, 2020 00:39
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I remember one of the walls at shelf had a bunch of wasps buzzing around on it, maybe cactus cliff? luckily we were there early in the season so it was still kinda cool for them I’ve also had vultures pretty close by once, I guess they saw how poorly we were leading and figured they’d hang around a bit
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Mar 6, 2020 01:07
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I crimped a frog once, without any pro in over a bad landing. We both survived 
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Mar 6, 2020 01:40
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Hauki posted:I remember one of the walls at shelf had a bunch of wasps buzzing around on it, maybe cactus cliff? Ha, nice one. In climbing news, I roped up yesterday. I currently have little stamina.
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Mar 6, 2020 02:37
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Question time. Should I spend a bunch of money on a gri gri or get a semi-assisted device like the black diamond pilot instead?
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Mar 6, 2020 03:22
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I like the megajul which you can also rap with, but I think every single strand assisted brake device is roughly equivalent. I don't like grigris and would advise against buying one, but I've also not put in the time to get the muscle memory down for lead belaying with them. In other news, I sent the roofed 10d at the gym that I've been projecting for 3 weeks.
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Mar 6, 2020 03:31
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KingColliwog posted:Question time. Honestly I think people should just get a grigri or something similar at this point. I really liked the pilot though, but I eventually replaced it with a vergo for that little bit of extra protection. I watch 10 year olds belay each other with grigris all the time and I'm not sure I'd trust them with an atc. Anyway it's still a bit of a holy war, although the pilot and grigri are on the same side of it anyway. The thing about a pilot is that cbelaying with it feels like belaying with a grigri because it will lock if you don't feed the rope correctly, and you can't just hand it to someone and expect they can belay without some instruction, almost everyone has used a grigri. Of course I got a vergo anyway and it's worse than the pilot in terms of having to learn to belay with it in particular. ETA: I think it also depends on your goals, most of that applies to single pitch sport and gym climbing. M. Night Skymall fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Mar 6, 2020 |
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Mar 6, 2020 03:36
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Happiness Commando posted:I like the megajul which you can also rap with, but I think every single strand assisted brake device is roughly equivalent. I don't like grigris and would advise against buying one, but I've also not put in the time to get the muscle memory down for lead belaying with them. This is bad and wrong. Grigri's are good and the best assisted device of the all. Completely worth the money for the reliability and ease of use. Way to go though on sending the roof.
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Mar 6, 2020 05:30
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M. Night Skymall posted:
double posting here but probably my favorite thing abut the grigri is top belaying on multipitch with it. Even if I have to bring another rap device it is way better then any of the guide modes (besides the pivot which comes close and you can rap with).
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Mar 6, 2020 05:33
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spwrozek posted:Grigri's are good and the best assisted device of the all. Completely worth the money for the reliability and ease of use. Sorry, this is bad and wrong. Grigris use a mechanical camming device to brake assist. Mechanical devices fail.
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Mar 6, 2020 05:40
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KingColliwog posted:Question time. I have a gri gri and like it a lot. There was a bit of a learning curve but now it feels much better for lead belaying than an ATC, for me. And as mentioned, it is the ubiquitous assisted belay device. So you can expect other people to know how to use it, and it's idiosyncrasies and failure modes are relatively well established which is I think an advantage.
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Mar 6, 2020 05:44
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Happiness Commando posted:Sorry, this is bad and wrong. Grigris use a mechanical camming device to brake assist. Mechanical devices fail. Expansion bolts and cams are mechanical devices too. Your personal risk tolerance is wherever you choose to set it, but if your major concern is the failure of a GriGri then I think that concern might be misplaced.
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Mar 6, 2020 06:19
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Happiness Commando posted:Sorry, this is bad and wrong. Grigris use a mechanical camming device to brake assist. Mechanical devices fail. do you have statistics on deaths as a result of mechanical failure vs human error?
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Mar 6, 2020 06:27
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On Terra Firma posted:I've been an exclusive gym rat in my climbing career and was just considering making a trip outdoors for the first time but nope sorry I like climate controlled environments without snakes and centipedes. every time i try to tell someone at the gym that i like bouldering indoors cause it’s a fun avenue to being fit but i don’t really care about going outdoors to squamish or whatever they look at me like i’m some sort of alien. bouldering is like the least judgemental group of ppl i’ve ever dealt with unless you say you don’t wanna go outside lol
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Mar 6, 2020 12:31
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Verviticus posted:every time i try to tell someone at the gym that i like bouldering indoors cause it’s a fun avenue to being fit but i don’t really care about going outdoors to squamish or whatever they look at me like i’m some sort of alien. bouldering is like the least judgemental group of ppl i’ve ever dealt with unless you say you don’t wanna go outside lol When I tell them I like air conditioning and hate bugs they usually just go "ah yes fair points".
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Mar 6, 2020 14:58
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spwrozek posted:double posting here but probably my favorite thing abut the grigri is top belaying on multipitch with it. Even if I have to bring another rap device it is way better then any of the guide modes (besides the pivot which comes close and you can rap with). Yeah it's more that I just don't have a ton of multi-pitch experience, I feel like you're almost always going to take an ATC to rap with anyway, so I could see not wanting to bring a grigri. That said, I did my multipitch belaying with the vergo and just brought an ATC to rap cause it's not that big a deal. I'd also like to pitch the Trango Vergo as a grigri alternative. I've owned I think every version of the grigri over the years, and the Vergo just feels so much more natural to belay with once you adjust to it. No matter how much time I spent with a grigri it never felt great to me. The Vergo also tries to eliminate the most common user errors with the grigri, mostly just holding the cam closed by default while belaying, which is really hard to do with the Vergo and definitely not necessary at any point to belay with it. It uh, did have some recalls back in 2016, but all that seems to be cleared up now. On Terra Firma posted:When I tell them I like air conditioning and hate bugs they usually just go "ah yes fair points". You guys should just move somewhere with no outdoor climbing nearby, then everyone in the gym just talks about taking trips to slightly further away climbing gyms to see if the setting is any different, and they look at you weird when you explain how you drive 3-8 hours one way to climb with bugs when there's perfectly good plastic right here.
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Mar 6, 2020 16:18
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I will say watching people at the gym just constantly holding the cam on a gri is a favorite past time of mine.
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Mar 6, 2020 16:26
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Trango gear is scary to me. There were a lot of problems with the Cinch breaking because a pin got worn down, then they had the Vergo recall. Very hesitant to trust their gear after all that
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Mar 6, 2020 18:29
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Xyven posted:Trango gear is scary to me. There were a lot of problems with the Cinch breaking because a pin got worn down, then they had the Vergo recall. Very hesitant to trust their gear after all that There's a big arrow pointing at the part of it to inspect, but yeah I think it's reasonable to at least keep an eye on their stuff, that's why I mentioned the recalls instead of just a blanket recommendation. If a different company would make an ergonomic assisted-belay device I'd at least try it, but the Vergo's the only one even trying imo.
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Mar 6, 2020 18:36
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Verviticus posted:every time i try to tell someone at the gym that i like bouldering indoors cause it’s a fun avenue to being fit but i don’t really care about going outdoors to squamish or whatever they look at me like i’m some sort of alien. bouldering is like the least judgemental group of ppl i’ve ever dealt with unless you say you don’t wanna go outside lol I feel this so hard, outdoor climbing is fun and all, and I love hiking and being outdoors, but there's so much extra junk you have to deal with for a decent outdoor climbing trip that it takes a lot of the pleasure away from the actual climbing part for me. I just want to throw myself at the wall and go home afterwards. If you live like an hour's drive from some amazing rock then sure but driving for 4-6 hours to spend your entire weekend in a tent interspersed with some climbing in the wind/rain before driving home just doesn't seem like a great use of time plus you get weird looks from all the guys who think that it's the best thing ever.
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Mar 6, 2020 22:57
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Went outdoors for Valentine's. My second ever trip. Pros:      Cons: -Everything mentioned above -Dogs and ice and cliffs don't mix. One of mine was inches from being some Looney tunes skit when she was sprinting everywhere near the canyon edge. -Both times outdoors some kind of plan went sideways leaving actual time spent climbing pretty low -sighting routes is its own skill when there aren't bright colors showing the problem. Definitely had to quit trying to evaluate rocks and just climb and have fun. All information that's easily searchable/obvious but I'd definitely emphasize preparing. Heavy research into where you're going. Bring plenty of what you need. Leave stuff you don't. Time-frames should be loose at best yada yada yada. I love outdoor bouldering so far but I was able to have a great time and it was mostly me rucking a crash pad around all day as opposed to climbing. People need to understand that rock climbers are all different people and just because you love climbing doesn't mean you have to love outdoorsy stuff. I'm happy that I've found this passion as it's hitting it's stride and making its way to the main stage and am delighted that all different types of people can enjoy it in their own way.  https://imgur.com/a/baf3RCs bonus for link clickers, bad at (phone) posting DuK2gO fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Mar 8, 2020 |
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Mar 8, 2020 06:11
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Nice. It definitely gets easier with experience, and as you get to know the area you're climbing in. I don't get the crag dog thing at all. My friend brought his husky with us once and we had the dumbest rescue to get it off like a 6 foot cliff. It also chewed through its harness and 2 different leashes.
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Mar 8, 2020 15:24
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That's a good dog rescue. I've hung out with crag dogs that were great and chill, and I've hung out with crag dogs that immediately roll in human poo poo. I think, overall, I prefer not having dogs around at the crag.
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Mar 8, 2020 15:32
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M. Night Skymall posted:Nice. It definitely gets easier with experience, and as you get to know the area you're climbing in. Lol. nice recuse. Crag dogs depend on the dog. I am about to find out with mine since we will be camping and climbing next weekend...
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Mar 8, 2020 15:38
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M. Night Skymall posted:Nice. It definitely gets easier with experience, and as you get to know the area you're climbing in. Its just some people are assholes and think I'll be ok with their dog wanting to play with me when I'm trying to belay someone because "its cool bro, he's friendly!" And those experiences have been a lot more memorable than the chill dogs. Ravenfood fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Mar 8, 2020 |
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Mar 8, 2020 15:40
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You got it exactly right. My dog is a great back country ski dog and is really good at down stays at the dog park. So we will see. I think he will be chill though. I will not be the jerk dog owner though.
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Mar 8, 2020 15:52
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trying to figure out if a bouldering/climbing gym is uniquely good at spreading coronavirus because you're inhaling chalk that could be covered in it, or generally safe because you're basically never touching your face with your hands because they're covered in chalk and theres usually a lot of open space so you arent too close to other people (and the entire gym/all surfaces are outrageously dry)
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Mar 15, 2020 00:13
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My local gym is doing reservation time slots so they can have no more than 20 people inside at a time. I’m just not going.
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Mar 15, 2020 00:19
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No way am I hitting the gym for awhile.
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Mar 15, 2020 00:44
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Same. It seems like kind of an own goal at this point.
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Mar 15, 2020 01:00
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I went to the climbing gym a couple days ago but that'll probably be the last time in a while
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Mar 15, 2020 01:06
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Im out of the gym for at least two weeks while the schools are closed. Then it will either be closed because its pandemonium or ill make a judgement call. Until then, Im fingerboarding and rehabing and doing yoga and what have you. I did go two days ago, but there was little to no cases here and I just spent all week teaching to hundreds of kids so the gym felt wayyyy safer than my job.
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Mar 15, 2020 01:19
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My gym has been excellent over the last few weeks, it's much less crowded.
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Mar 15, 2020 01:50
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I’ve been thinking if I’m going to go, it will be on a weekday right when they open at 5:30 AM, and out by 7:30
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Mar 15, 2020 02:06
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i usually go from 9pm to 11pm or so, so its never super busy, last few weeks have been pretty dead
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Mar 15, 2020 02:18
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