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KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Tippecanoe posted:

What does everyone's hangboard setups look like? I dunno if I'm handy enough/have an appropriate space for one, but I can dream.

I'll try to take pictures, but mine is inside a closet. So it takes no room. I also set up rings in the same spot. You really need almost no room.

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Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

Based on someone's climbing level, I would suggest either the simple board or thegrindstone mk2 from tension climbing.

Those are the best designed hang boards I've seen/ used.

Find some studs in the wall, attach a sheet of plywood to the studs, then drill in the hang board to the plywood

Suicide Watch
Sep 8, 2009
My resoled shoes came in! But I've been feverish for a week now so I'll wait until I'm better to try them on. Yosemite Bum was pretty fast even with their move (no idea now...)

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Here's a small video of my setup. I put the rings and the pulley system in the video, but keep in mind that I only have 2 carabiners so the pulley system is lacking the two carabiners in the video. Obviously the pulleys and rings are extra and non essential. But they are really nice to have. as this thing gives me a pretty complete indoor training setup

My board is the simple board from tension and the rest is all cheap home depot style stuff. The pulleys are like a buck or two, the rope is 200 lbs rope.

The backer board is a stair backboard. It was super cheap and just the right size. It's solid hard wood so its just perfect if you don't want to cut plywood or pay stupid amount for precut at rei. There's a wood cross "beam" on top of the door frame and I put a bunch of screws through it. On the side and top I put a bunch of 90 pounds dry wall anchors.

Video quality isn't good but it shows everything

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3MitZG7nqQ

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Mar 21, 2020

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

japtor posted:

Don't have mine currently but here's my friend's, using one of those door hanger pull up bars:



Basically just take the end caps off, get the right threaded end pipe and whatever that other piece is, line it all up and screw it to a wood board, then attach the hang board to that. My friends drilled through the metal to secure the pipes, but that was a major pain in the rear end so I didn't bother, and personally found it ok without it. The tolerance is pretty narrow between the pipes/tubing and there's enough friction and force that it takes deliberate effort to get it out, at least on the one I did.

Is it possible to convert it back into a regular pullup bar, or is that a fairly permanent fixture?

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

Sab669 posted:

Is it possible to convert it back into a regular pullup bar, or is that a fairly permanent fixture?

In googling I've seen some people's DIY hangboards that use bike hooks to temporarily mount a hangboard on plywood.

I'm still weighing my options; I'm renting and there's some questionable construction in my apartment that makes me hesitant to just start drilling into walls or using the doorframe to support my weight. I have a covered balcony, however, so now I'm thinking of mounting a hangboard and pull-up bar on the brick wall outdoors if I'm feeling ambitious and looking for a project.

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

Tippecanoe posted:

In googling I've seen some people's DIY hangboards that use bike hooks to temporarily mount a hangboard on plywood.

I'm still weighing my options; I'm renting and there's some questionable construction in my apartment that makes me hesitant to just start drilling into walls or using the doorframe to support my weight. I have a covered balcony, however, so now I'm thinking of mounting a hangboard and pull-up bar on the brick wall outdoors if I'm feeling ambitious and looking for a project.

Buy a good stud finder, I just went through this process with a brick house.

Unfortunately, I had to compromise and mount mine outside on a structural beam because the inside just had no viable studs

There are also mortar fasteners, idk how effective they are though

japtor
Oct 28, 2005

Sab669 posted:

Is it possible to convert it back into a regular pullup bar, or is that a fairly permanent fixture?
The way my friends did it it’s fairly permanent, but way I did it it’s almost untouched. Literally the only modification I did was pop out the two plastic end caps*, I can just slide the hangboard part in and out of the pipes whenever I want. (*...I’m not entirely sure where the caps are but they’re not a necessary piece, except maybe they protect the floor if you do one of the ground exercise things with it)

Searched around now and found a bunch of different ways, but here’s the specific method my friend used (again mine's the same, minus the drilling through the metal bars part):

https://betterclimberproject.wordpress.com/2013/02/13/diy-doorway-hangboard/

And to be sure on sizing pipes, just bring the pull-up bar to Home Depot or wherever and test fit the pipes. I saw a comment elsewhere saying he used 5" instead of 4" for example, just pick whatever seems to fit well I guess. Oh and I guess my friends also drilled holes for hooks at the bottom for a pulley counterweight setup.

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

SKELITON_BRINGING_U_ON.GIF
Lmao

https://twitter.com/RickyRawls/status/1243686752721788930?s=19

Don't be this guy

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

I'm just a total piece of shit and I'm not sure why I keep posting on this site. Christ, I have spent years with idiots giving me bad advice about online dating and haven't noticed that the thread I'm in selects for people that can't talk to people worth a damn.
that guys cool.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005
Fallen Rib

Hot Diggity! posted:

Don't be this guy

Totally. With footwork like that he looks like he's never had to climb more than about 5 moves in a row. Should have hoisted a foot up onto the windowsill and rocked over on it to get a rest. No wonder he's pumped.

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

No one around for like 50 feet, he's good

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Have any of you goonses prepared a site for climbing before? State parks are still open for hiking here in New York, there's this singular giant rock that calls to me every time I hike this trail but I don't want to just bring my pad and shoes and start climbing it :shrug:

Side shot:


From the front:


Awkward panaroma from the front standing further back:

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
That thing looks like every attempt at climbing will be a first attempt, because it'll fall apart bit by bit under your fingertips.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Ha! Yea parts definitely look prone to breaking, but then I'm sure as hell not an expert to really tell.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
I mean, literally the entire face in your panorama pic looks prone to breaking. Only the rock at the top lip looks solid, and that theory is supported by the fact that it's worn down in the way it has. If you want to bring a crash pad out there and mess around on it, by all means go ahead, but that looks like really lousy rock to me.

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

In the first picture, the left side of the rock looks like it may be climbable

remote control carnivore
May 7, 2009
That rock looks like dangerous hot garbage

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!
Choss. Pile.

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005

Hard to tell from just looking at pictures how chossy it is. You could tap it gently with a hammer to tell how well it holds together. Generally you'll want all hollow sounding and lose rocks gone but if that's the entire face you should probably leave it alone.

You can always try it out via clog(fixed TR) if you're apprehensive to do it as a boulder.

Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Mar 31, 2020

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

Sigmund Fraud posted:

Hard to tell from just looking at pictures how chossy it is. You could tap it gently with a hammer to tell how well it holds together. Generally you'll want all hollow sounding and lose rocks gone but if that's the entire face you should probably leave it alone.

You can always try it out via clog(fixed TR) if you're apprehensive to do it as a boulder.

This is the real advice; I was basing it off the pile of loose rocks at the foot of the face and just how it generally looked, but you could try tapping the face and seeing how it holds up.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
So, I'm training quite a bit and part of that is hangboarding 3x a week.

Right now I'm doing
1 day a week halfcrimp + pinch block
2 days a week halfcrimp - open hand - 3 finger drag

I was wondering if I could just do 3x a week halfcrimp/open/3 finger and do pinch block on the off days since pinch block seem to mostly work on the thumb. I'm really not sure how much it would impact my recovery so I'd rather ask before switching.

I can't do all of that on the same day since I'm taking care of my three sons alone and can only train while they nap.

Also, how often do people feel safe adding weight? I'm currently still removing 30 pounds and I know I could probably go to 25 without any problem. but I'm taking a cautious approach. I started by removing at least 5 pounds more than my real max and go down by 2.5 pounds per week. I really don't want to get injured and am ok with progress that is a bit slower, but I don't want to waste my time if it's totally unnecessary.

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Mar 31, 2020

George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010





Is anyone else opting in to keep their gym fees rolling even though their gym is closed? This whole situation sucks

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

George H.W. oval office posted:

Is anyone else opting in to keep their gym fees rolling even though their gym is closed? This whole situation sucks

For a little bit yes, but I don't know if I'll be able to keep doing this for multiple months. Our gym decided to do a thing where they will send you a special "solidarity" t-shirt + 30% on whatever you want to buy in their shop once this if over for people who kept the fees rolling for the first month. I think that's a great way to convince people to keep paying

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
I'm friends with a lot of my gym staff, am in a position where I can afford to keep paying, and want them to get paid, so yes.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

George H.W. oval office posted:

Is anyone else opting in to keep their gym fees rolling even though their gym is closed? This whole situation sucks

I am for now. It will depend how long my GFs practice has to be closed and if I have to start supporting her. Even if I do I probably can still support the gym but we will see.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Yea I'm keeping mine up. I'll cancel it immediately if I lose my job, but until then...

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

armorer posted:

I'm friends with a lot of my gym staff, am in a position where I can afford to keep paying, and want them to get paid, so yes.

Same. Although I think my gym laid almost? everyone off so they could get unemployment after the bill passed with promises to rehire, but they're still covering medical insurance or something, I dunno it's fine I'd rather there be gyms in my city cause there's no loving rocks to climb nearby.

Suicide Watch
Sep 8, 2009
Looks like hangboards and other similar training devices (like rock rings) are out of stock everywhere. Anyone have a router and sander and want to whip up a bunch? Seriously you could sell so many on Etsy or eBay.

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

Suicide Watch posted:

Looks like hangboards and other similar training devices (like rock rings) are out of stock everywhere. Anyone have a router and sander and want to whip up a bunch? Seriously you could sell so many on Etsy or eBay.
I'm hoping pull-up bars, hangboards, etc come back in stock soon; pretty much all the home fitness equipment online got bought up instantly. I'm gonna be a marshmallow by the end of this quarantine :(

remote control carnivore
May 7, 2009

George H.W. oval office posted:

Is anyone else opting in to keep their gym fees rolling even though their gym is closed? This whole situation sucks

My spouse and I am. Our gym is paying their staff to stay home and I support that. I’m lucky to be able to, and certainly I couldn’t if my household were relying on my income alone.

Diva Cupcake
Aug 15, 2005

I have a yearly and my gym is pausing the membership while they’re unable to open, which is nice of them. I bought a couple 5 pack passes for friends while they’re gone.

Diva Cupcake
Aug 15, 2005

My gym paused the clock on all yearly memberships so that was nice of them. I’m going to buy a couple 5-10 pack passes to give to friends to help support.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

All of Reel Rock's catalog is on sale; ~40 hours of footage for $95 - https://reelrocktour.com/collections/films/products/the-full-package-20-years-of-climbing-films

I just finished watching 12. Stumped was seriously funny as hell. Like, enjoyable to watch even if someone doesn't know anything about climbing at all I think.

Jester Mcgee
Mar 28, 2010

A lot of things have happened to me over my life.

I ordered a hangboard on March 24, and it looks like it might come in today. I'm very excited. I've been doing some bodyweight exercises and stretching to try to stay fit, but it's not the same without something to work on my fingers. My hands are soft and I feel like I couldn't hang on jugs after not doing any climbing since like the middle of March. Basically, it's nice to feel some psych about training.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)


I missed 2017 but I don’t know if I really want to watch a movie about Brad Gobright called Safety Third :(

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Yea that was definitely a weird watch

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

My dogs leash worn through and it is just, basically, 1" tubular webbing. So I tied a water knot and basically left zero tail since I didn't take want to shorten the leash much. If you don't know, 6" tails are what you should have for this type of knot and you should check it often if you leave it tied. Over the next few weeks it was really cool to watch the knot slowly untie. Then, with basically zero load, it was apart. I tied it again with a 2" tail and we will see how long it lasts this time.

This is my current rock climbing exposure right now.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$

Make one of those dumb videos where you use an ice axe and tricams to traverse your kitchen cabinets

Edit: I've seen images. I want the real HD deal.

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

I can only imagine what my crampons would do to my floors and cabinets.

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