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BlackMK4 posted:A tuner will have an exhaust gas analyzer, you don't need an o2 sensor at all. Yeah, this. Sucks about your cam chain, Ponies 
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Apr 3, 2013 19:27
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  So I installed the clubman bars on my bike. Looks: If only the throttle grip was a sleeve AND grip I would be able to install the other bar-end mirror, but NOPE! Just one big chunk of ugly plastic. Still it looks quite good on it. Ergonomics: I am not impressed at all, it wasn't painfull on the short trip I took on it, but commuting on this will be a pain in the rear end. I will probably remove them tommorow after I confirm they suck for commuting. Also I need to get a new 7/8'' throttle sleeve...
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Apr 3, 2013 22:44
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clutchpuck posted:The quest for better fueling with my butt-dyno continues. If you happen to stumble upon a really decent mileage map send me a PM or something, I am slowly turning my lightning into a touring bike and improved mileage and smoother response is going to matter a whole lot more than WOT power. Edit: Speaking of which, the front wheel bearings came in, the rears should be here this week, and hopefully my sidecase racks will be finished so I can take the wheels off and replace them.
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Apr 3, 2013 23:39
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ElMaligno posted:commuting on this will be a pain in the rear end. Don't really know what you were expecting. Do you think people install apehangers for comfort? Both styles are about the look, not the comfort.
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Apr 3, 2013 23:51
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Pokey Araya posted:Don't really know what you were expecting. Do you think people install apehangers for comfort? Both styles are about the look, not the comfort. I assumed they where going to be low, just not THIS low 
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Apr 4, 2013 00:08
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ElMaligno posted:
IIRC Most throttle tubes are tubes, with a grip sleeve over them, most handguards/mirrors require trimming the throttle tube end, so you could always do that?
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Apr 4, 2013 00:31
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Z3n posted:Sucks about your cam chain, Ponies Thanks, I'm just praying I don't need a new engine. I just sunk to a new low. For the first time in my life I own a bus pass.
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Apr 4, 2013 00:38
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Pokey Araya posted:Don't really know what you were expecting. Do you think people install apehangers for comfort? Both styles are about the look, not the comfort. Well, clubmans were actually originally built to put you in a full racing tuck before clip-ons were a thing people did. And they do that very well, which is why they're so uncomfortable. Certainly somewhere around 100% of them today are installed for the looks, though. Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Thanks, I'm just praying I don't need a new engine. I just sunk to a new low. For the first time in my life I own a bus pass. Eh, the valves may not have hit the pistons at all, and if they did it may be no worse than a couple of bent valves and busted pistons. Hardly new-engine territory. Incidentally, I've been theorizing as to why my engine blew up, and I think I've worked out the likely chain of events. 1. sometime before I bought my bike, the PO did something bad to the left side of the engine. The left side spark plug hole has been helicoiled(!) and the left piston is the one that fractured, right in the center where the plug would have been, but there's no damage to the plug I was running when the engine popped. There's also no damage to the valves (they would have hit the piston in a completely different place anyway) and I didn't hear any knocking, so the hole likely wasn't caused by a valve collision or a lean condition. So I suspect that years ago, the PO did something stupid that may have weakened the piston but not outright punched through it. My guess is that he at one point replaced the plug with one that was too long, immediately smacking the plug into the piston and denting it but not breaking through, while also ejecting the spark plug back out the hole and taking the threads with it. It fits the damage pattern anyway. 2. Sometime in the last 500 miles, I let the oil get low. I only took about 1.2 quarts out last time I changed the oil when it's supposed to hold 2. This is my own fault for not checking the oil in the last 500 miles, though every time I'd checked it the level had been stable until then. Not sure why it would have started to decrease suddenly. Still, kicking myself over that one. 3. Low oil leads to low pressure, which causes starvation in the right side of the head. RevDoctor suggests that this happens to Hondas with low pressure -- they ruin one side of the head while the other side looks totally fine, as mine does. 4. With the head starving on the right, the right side camshaft journal fails and the rockers and camshaft start to get chewed up. This messes with the timing and lift and increases engine load, which I perceive as lost power. I adjust the carbs, set the eccentrics to their maximum value to quiet down the now-destroyed rockers, find that the bike is running "okay" and go on a ride figuring it just needs to be wrung out or something. 5. 50 miles from home, the clicking noise comes back as the rockers (which are now chewed past the hardfacing and thus completely unable to deal with the forces, even with oil) self-destruct further. I turn around and head home but need to take a 7 mile trip on the freeway to make it. With the timing out, the camshaft dragging in a shredded bearing and the bike running hot and hard at 7500 RPM to keep up with traffic -- not to mention that the right piston is probably working harder than the left, if the timing on the left is now shot -- the subtle damage to the left piston makes itself known as the piston finally blows apart. I pull over and find a massive oil slick coming out of the left side tachometer drive, where the journal (now no longer sealing to the camshaft) sits. At least, that's my best guess that explains everything that's damaged in the engine and all the little signs I noticed along the way. I still have no idea what could have caused the original damage, or how bad it was -- I wish that when I was rebuilding the bike before I'd taken the engine apart and at least taken a look at the pistons, but I decided that a running engine was a running engine and I wouldn't mess with it cause I wanted to get on the road sooner. In retrospect that was absolutely the correct choice, and I'm actually enjoying the process of rebuilding the engine at this point, but it would have been interesting to see if any little hairline cracks or dents were visible at the time. Also, who knows how long it might have kept going before losing the piston if I hadn't let the oil run low? Might have been another 10,000 miles or it might have been another 10 minutes. The mysteries of life. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Apr 4, 2013 |
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Apr 4, 2013 00:49
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Sagebrush posted:Tsubaki. The box says CAMELLIA on it. I'm going to check all my tsubaki chain boxes right now. Sagebrush posted:Eh, the valves may not have hit the pistons at all, and if they did it may be no worse than a couple of bent valves and busted pistons. Hardly new-engine territory. Maybe if he's rebuilding it himself. But if he has to take it to a shop it might be more economical to get a new motor.
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Apr 4, 2013 01:00
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I'm going to check all my tsubaki chain boxes right now. It's not the box itself, it's the paper wrapper the chain comes in. *In retrospect it is probably some kind of chemically treated anti-rust paper and that's what they're telling you not to eat, but frankly eating the packaging materials for your engine parts is almost as dumb as eating the parts themselves. And yeah, it probably would be a lot cheaper to just find a crashed VFR and swap out the engine, but then again he also lives near the Bay area and gently caress finding any cheap motorcycle parts within a thousand miles of here.
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Apr 4, 2013 01:34
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Slavvy posted:Did yours break too? Noone mentioned anything when I posted pics of my one. Did it just sort of fall apart when you took the wheel off or what? No, the speedo had been like this since I bought it (haven't had it in my care for a couple months). PO didn't mention so your guess is as good as mine.
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Apr 4, 2013 02:02
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SaNChEzZ posted:IIRC Most throttle tubes are tubes, with a grip sleeve over them, most handguards/mirrors require trimming the throttle tube end, so you could always do that? That IS the sleeve, I cut the grip last year. So my throttle is just a very thick rubbery sleeve. This seems like a cheap option, but I will probably pass by a motorcycle shop and see what they have.
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Apr 4, 2013 02:03
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Sagebrush posted:And yeah, it probably would be a lot cheaper to just find a crashed VFR and swap out the engine, but then again he also lives near the Bay area and gently caress finding any cheap motorcycle parts within a thousand miles of here. I'm about 250 miles from the Bay area, down in San Luis Obispo. Parts are pretty tough to come by sometimes. It really depends on what happened once/if the cam chain fully let go. If it came down to it, I could probably do the work. My mechanics shop rate is reasonable at $65/hr though and he busts his rear end to help me out whenever I need it. He's going to borescope it and let me know what's up before it gets pricey.
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Apr 4, 2013 02:29
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Sagebrush posted:It's not the box itself, it's the paper wrapper the chain comes in. *In retrospect it is probably some kind of chemically treated anti-rust paper and that's what they're telling you not to eat, but frankly eating the packaging materials for your engine parts is almost as dumb as eating the parts themselves. Hey man, swapping out a chain can leave a man right peckish
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Apr 4, 2013 02:45
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Started reassembling after powdercoating and painting. Where's the pics of the powder coating setup, dude? You can PM them to me if it's too unrelated.  Also wanna see more close ups of dat powder coat job.
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Apr 4, 2013 03:05
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Gave my bike its third chance to freeze my fingers off. I rode in to work today, 25 miles in 20 F, damp. Had to brush frost off the seat & windshield. (my fingers are fine, I use snowmobile mittens when it's this cold)
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Apr 4, 2013 03:10
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Put together an extremely long and complicated Fastenal order to replace nearly every bolt, nut, washer and screw on my engine with 18-8 stainless. For the roughly 60 or so bolts I'm replacing, Honda has used twenty-three different sizes, frequently differing in length for no clear reason (eg: a 25mm bolt next to a 30mm bolt next to a 35mm bolt when they could simply have made two of the mounting bosses taller and used 3x35). Thanks, Honda. Thonda.
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Apr 4, 2013 04:06
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Don't change, Sagebrush.
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Apr 4, 2013 05:07
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Sagebrush posted:Put together an extremely long and complicated Fastenal order to replace nearly every bolt, nut, washer and screw on my engine with 18-8 stainless.
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Apr 4, 2013 05:13
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If I were doing that I'd be much better off with 316. Duh  No, just that a lot of them were either rusty and corroded or had chewed up heads so I was going to replace them anyway while the engine is apart, and it came out to about 55 bucks for stainless versus thirty for regular steel so kind of a no-brainer there.
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Apr 4, 2013 05:22
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Fair enough, but be aware that 18-8 is pretty ambiguous and just because something is SS doesn't mean it's stronger/better. In fact, depending on what you actually get it might be more brittle.
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Apr 4, 2013 05:40
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Literally anything is going to be better than what the Japanese were making their bolts out of in the 1970s, as anyone with a UJM can certainly confirm. But now you've gone and made me worried. I do know that the tensile strength of stainless is slightly less than a comparable regular steel, but I can't imagine it matters all that much in something as lightly loaded as an old 350cc engine. Yes/no? When I say "every bolt" I mean basically every bolt that sees the outside air, incidentally, so basically all the case bolts and associated hardware. I'm not changing anything that sees dynamic loads. e: huh, well what do you know. Does this guy speak the truth? If so I'm cancelling the order and buying all standard galvanized instead. some guy on hondatwins posted:Hi, Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Apr 4, 2013 |
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Apr 4, 2013 05:54
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Rode! First time in 45 days! I just disconnected the battery before I left. So, six weeks and the gas was pretty nasty, unfortunately. I put half a can of Seafoam into the half-tank that was left, and rode that. I put the other half-can into a new tank of gas. Now the bike doesn't really want to hold an idle or start until it's REALLY warmed up. It's about 80 here, and I had to use choke. It also sounds like it's missing on a cylinder when it doesn't want to idle. So, since I had bad gas in there, I should clean the carbs. OR Since I think it's a carb issue, it's actually a spark issue and I should check the plugs. Which?
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Apr 4, 2013 06:02
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Since I think it's a carb issue, it's actually a spark issue and I should check the plugs. Probably both. Clean your carbs for sure and by the sounds of it, I'd just replace the plugs too.
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Apr 4, 2013 06:26
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slidebite posted:Fair enough, but be aware that 18-8 is pretty ambiguous and just because something is SS doesn't mean it's stronger/better. In fact, depending on what you actually get it might be more brittle. 18-8 is somewhere between grade 2 and grade 5, but closer to grade 5. In my experience, however, stainless fasteners are soft as warm butter. Schlieren fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Apr 4, 2013 |
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Apr 4, 2013 06:55
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Schlieren posted:18-8 is somewhere between grade 2 and grade 5 in a chromium / nickel free steel, much closer to grade 2. I've been looking this up further and this is all new and surprising information to me. I basically was remembering all the rebuild logs I've seen around where people go "did this, did that, replaced the case bolts with stainless, blah blah blah" and assumed that was just something that is done, never really considered whether they were doing something smart. Fascinating to know how relatively soft common stainless steel is. Grade 8.8 galvanized is a much better choice I take it? What about 12.9? I can get those too for about the same price, but would they be too hard or brittle or something? These are basically all the case bolts, incidentally, anything that got corroded over the last 40 years of exposure...I never intended to replace any of the internal fasteners or parts under a dynamic load. Thank you to Schlieren and slidebite for putting me on the right path. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Apr 4, 2013 |
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Apr 4, 2013 07:05
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Sagebrush posted:I've been looking this up even further and this is quite surprising. I basically was remembering all the rebuild logs I've seen around where people go "did this, did that, replaced the case bolts with stainless, blah blah blah" and assumed that was just something that is done, never really considered whether they were doing something smart. Fascinating to know. Grade 8.8 galvanized is a much better choice I take it? These are all the case bolts, incidentally, anything that got corroded over the last 40 years of exposure...I never intended to replace any of the internal fasteners. I worked at Fastenal for 5 years, but am having trouble finding the relevant charts; the one linked in this post states that 18-8 is actually pretty close to grade 5. However, from my recollection of training materials as well as personal experience, stainless fasteners are surprisingly weak. I've twisted the heads off of grade 5 bolts before but only with effort equivalent to stomping on a ratchet, whereas with stainless I've merely been lying down and applying pressure with my skinny goon arms. YMMV, but I'd be careful when using the stainless stuff. Galvanized bolts will not work for this application most likely, as the coating renders the threads thicker; galvanized bolts go with galvanized nuts only... not sure about, say, a tapped hole in an engine block. Unfortunately your best bet is to use stainless sparingly - I myself have used stainless on some parts of my bike - but stick with regular grade 8 / grade 5 zinc-plated stuff where strength is an issue. The finish degrading only becomes something that happens on extremely hot surfaces like exhaust pipes, even head bolts probably keep their zinc. There are always chrome-plated fasteners too, but that's prohibitively expensive. As with all fasteners, really, but even moreso with stainless fasteners, these are a single-use item.
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Apr 4, 2013 07:18
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Well, there's another thing I learned today -- galvanization is not the same as "zinc-plated".quote:The term galvanizing, while technically referring specifically to the application of zinc coating by the use of a galvanic cell (also known as electroplating), is also generally understood to include hot-dip zinc coating. The practical difference is that hot-dip galvanization produces a thick, durable and matte gray coating - electroplated coatings tend to be thin and brightly reflective Interesting. Makes sense, but I'd never considered the practical difference. I assume you're referring to the hot-dip process as the one that makes the threads too large to fit regular nuts? I am making a cart of bolts listed as 8.8 (and a few 10.9 where 8.8 wasn't available for some reason) and zinc finish -- those will probably fit, right? I actually have replaced some of the case bolts (ones that stripped the first time I tried to take them out) already with regular black-oxide finish socket-head cap screws, but a few of those have already started to rust and I'm inclined to believe the reactivity series that says that zinc will be less corrosive than plain steel in aluminum. All the stock bolts appear to be zinc-plated, anyway, and there's probably a reason for that. There are a few places I've used stainless metric bolts that I had sitting around, but they're basically to hold on things like the exhaust heat shield that barely see any load. Nothing like engine pieces, for sure. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Apr 4, 2013 |
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Apr 4, 2013 07:24
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Moved up a tooth in the front so I'm at -1/+1 instead of -2/+1. Recalibrated the speedo correction to -10% from -15.5%. Moved the rev limit to 13655rpm from 14000rpm to try and preserve the motor on the track. It makes peak power at 12.5k or so anyway. Speed bleeders in the front calipers. ...ordered a GPR steering damper and race plastics. I'm going to hell. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 10:48 on Apr 4, 2013 |
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Apr 4, 2013 10:40
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Sagebrush posted:Put together an extremely long and complicated Fastenal order to replace nearly every bolt, nut, washer and screw on my engine with 18-8 stainless. For the roughly 60 or so bolts I'm replacing, Honda has used twenty-three different sizes, frequently differing in length for no clear reason (eg: a 25mm bolt next to a 30mm bolt next to a 35mm bolt when they could simply have made two of the mounting bosses taller and used 3x35). Thanks, Honda. Is there not some equivalent of http://www.pro-bolt.com/ you can use (if it comes to it they ship worldwide anyway) and just buy a bag with all the bolts you need?
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Apr 4, 2013 11:43
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The cat it's not the problem. Registering and titling it is
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Apr 4, 2013 11:48
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marauderthirty posted:Where's the pics of the powder coating setup, dude? You can PM them to me if it's too unrelated.
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Apr 4, 2013 13:32
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Sagebrush posted:I've been looking this up further and this is all new and surprising information to me. I basically was remembering all the rebuild logs I've seen around where people go "did this, did that, replaced the case bolts with stainless, blah blah blah" and assumed that was just something that is done, never really considered whether they were doing something smart. The problem is not Stainless + Aluminium, but Stainless + Aluminium + Moisture, as the dissimilar metals bridged with water make an electrolytic cell. My bike lives in the car park for a Marina, so I've replaced most of the really exposed engine fasteners with A2 stainless, but not without religiously coating all the threads with specifically designed aluminium anti-seize (non copper) and precisely torqued them down on a little crown of thick grease around each bolt head to keep moisture out of the threads. Apparently old fashioned Tallow, the anti-seize of the 1900s, is pretty drat good too. I saw some pictures of a few bolts/fittings from a 100+ year old wreck with threads that looked like the day they were installed.
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Apr 4, 2013 15:08
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Sagebrush posted:Put together an extremely long and complicated Fastenal order to replace nearly every bolt, nut, washer and screw on my engine with 18-8 stainless. For the roughly 60 or so bolts I'm replacing, Honda has used twenty-three different sizes, frequently differing in length for no clear reason (eg: a 25mm bolt next to a 30mm bolt next to a 35mm bolt when they could simply have made two of the mounting bosses taller and used 3x35). Thanks, Honda. Now you see... if this was an sohc4 there'd probably already be a thread with all the bolt sizes, and guys selling whole kits for $35. ReelBigLizard posted:The problem is not Stainless + Aluminium, but Stainless + Aluminium + Moisture, as the dissimilar metals bridged with water make an electrolytic cell.
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Apr 5, 2013 00:44
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 In short gently caress clubman handlebars.
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Apr 5, 2013 01:07
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Sagebrush posted:I've been looking this up further and this is all new and surprising information to me. I basically was remembering all the rebuild logs I've seen around where people go "did this, did that, replaced the case bolts with stainless, blah blah blah" and assumed that was just something that is done, never really considered whether they were doing something smart. Fascinating to know how relatively soft common stainless steel is. Grade 8.8 galvanized is a much better choice I take it? What about 12.9? I can get those too for about the same price, but would they be too hard or brittle or something? These are basically all the case bolts, incidentally, anything that got corroded over the last 40 years of exposure...I never intended to replace any of the internal fasteners or parts under a dynamic load. You could be extra sick and go for Ti bolts: http://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium.html
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Apr 5, 2013 01:59
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ElMaligno posted:
nah, just flip 'em over. they're actually quite comfy that way.  Giblet Plus! posted:You could be extra sick and go for Ti bolts: goddamnit. Just as soon as I start getting over the itch, someone posts that link again.
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Apr 5, 2013 02:00
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poo poo, I've never seen any in person, I didn't realize how low the drop would be.
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Apr 5, 2013 02:01
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Clubmans were literally designed so that you could get yourself into a racing tuck on what would otherwise be a standard bike frame set up for general purpose use, way back in the 1950s and 60s. If with your new clubmans you are scrunched up like this guy then they're doing their job properly. Incidentally, I also did handlebar stuff today! Managed to slide the old hardened grip off the throttle tube with some heat and liquid wrench. Milled and drilled the new handlebars for the wiring and switchgear mount points. Wired everything up (pain in the rear end, sure wouldn't want to do internal routing with anything longer and more twisty than these) and attached the new grips and bar-end mirrors. The new grips feel super tacky and...grippy, which is awesome, and the bars feel like they're in the right place. Satisfied. 
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Apr 5, 2013 02:50
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| # ? May 28, 2024 02:06 |
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New tires! Pilot Road 2s. Didn't get a chance to break them in too much as it's still hovering in the single digit negatives (26'F for you Muricans.) Bit cold for riding still. Riding home from the mechanics was a bit chilly.
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Apr 5, 2013 03:12
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