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Christobevii3 posted:Shimmy could be related to rotten bushings or something simple. Have you inspected the connector to the cps? The CEL isn't a problem other than getting it registered, which hasn't been a problem until this upcoming August since I recently moved into the city proper. The entire suspension has been checked over and the consensus was to replace everything, which goes back to my point of it just being more money than it's worth to maintain. With the suspension problems and the fact that the transmission could grenade itself any day for no reason, I feel like I need to sell high. I still really enjoy driving the car and feel like a bit of a pussy for giving up on it. I really just need someone to spoon me and say it'll all be ok....until I get killed by some rear end in a top hat on my scooter.
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May 3, 2016 02:40
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karn1635 posted:I have a 2003 Chevy Trailblazer LS w/ about 178K miles on it that has an airbag light up on the dash and it is obviously failing the ignition check. If there's a harbor freight near you they have a scanner for under 100ish that does ABS and airbags.
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May 3, 2016 04:21
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Slavvy posted:I'm going to go against what people in this forum like to say: those cars are garbage and you should definitely get rid of it and get something with two wheels. As a Volvo guy (who's considering other pastures) I agree with this since you can't work on it yourself. If you're paying a shop for parts and labor it's almost certain that you'll handed a bill for more than the car is worth if you have them try to sort out the suspension.
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May 3, 2016 15:19
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I bought a 1994 Ford Ranger a while back to haul tools and supplies around my investment properties--I never really intended to take it any farther than across town and back. Recently, a friend got a great job offer a thousand miles away, and she's offered to pay me to haul some furniture down to her new apartment for her. I took the truck into my mechanic to have him give it a checkup to see if it could make the 16+ hour trip safely, and he told me that my front bearings needed replaced before I left, to the tune of $1,100. I've had bearings replaced in other passenger vehicles before, and the cost has never, ever even been in the same ballpark. The mechanic says the high cost is because the truck is 4WD, so it has two sets of bearings on each wheel. Given that I don't mind paying to have them replaced if it will ensure the safety of other drivers on the road (and, you know, me), my questions are: 1) Does $1,100 sound like an appropriate price tag? 2) How do I know that they actually need replaced? In every other car I've owned, when the bearings started to go bad, you could hear and/or feel it. Even at highway speeds, the truck rides like a dream. No rattling, grinding, shaking, etc.
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May 3, 2016 15:33
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Dude $1100? Go murder that guy and burn his shop down. Go on rock auto but Ford wheel bearings are two cone bearings per a wheel at $5 a piece, grease, nut, and cotter pin. gently caress that guy. Lift truck off ground and see if odd movement when you grab tire and shake.
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May 3, 2016 16:36
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Is it additional wear on my manual transmission if: When at a stop, keep the clutch pedal held down with the car in first, opposed to the car being in neutral with the clutch pedal released? I know you want to keep your foot off the pedal when not in use so you don't 'ghost clutch' but I saw somewhere saying it was additional wear to keep the clutch held down and I'm a bit skeptical.
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May 3, 2016 19:48
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To anyone who cares I finally got my 93 Volvo 850 sorted. Would crank but not start and I replaced plugs, wires and camshaft position sensor plus ran a fuel pressure check. Still no go. Finally took it to a mechanic because I need 2 cars this weekend. Ignition coil. Considering the condition of the spark plugs when I replaced them they could've caused the coil to go boom. Next time I'll know how to check the coil since I just looked it up and can probably replace it myself saving myself a cool $200 or so.
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May 3, 2016 19:51
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ultrabay2000 posted:Is it additional wear on my manual transmission if: When at a stop, keep the clutch pedal held down with the car in first, opposed to the car being in neutral with the clutch pedal released? You'll put extra wear on the throwout bearing (part that pushes the clutch off of the flywheel,) which generally requires dropping the transmission to replace. You'll probably wear it out sooner by holding the clutch down at every red light, but how soon that happens is anyone's guess. I would get in the habit of not holding the clutch down unless you're only stopping for a brief period, like at a stop sign or a red light that's about to change. There's really no reason to hold the pedal down and you're putting needless wear on a part that is difficult at best to replace. Geoj fucked around with this message at 19:56 on May 3, 2016 |
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May 3, 2016 19:52
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Yeah, been doing that. I was curious because I hadn't heard of it before but I found a CarTalk thing on it where they say the same thing.
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May 3, 2016 20:02
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I gotta replace my worn out DWS tires. What are the current hotness? The "new" DWS's? They'll be my summer daily driver tires, so will see mostly dry and rain, but will undoubtedly see below freezing temps and light snow in the late spring and early fall. Oh, MKV GTI with 17x7 wheels. Silver.
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May 3, 2016 21:19
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GOTTA STAY FAI posted:I bought a 1994 Ford Ranger a while back to haul tools and supplies around my investment properties--I never really intended to take it any farther than across town and back. Recently, a friend got a great job offer a thousand miles away, and she's offered to pay me to haul some furniture down to her new apartment for her. I took the truck into my mechanic to have him give it a checkup to see if it could make the 16+ hour trip safely, and he told me that my front bearings needed replaced before I left, to the tune of $1,100. Get a new mechanic and a second opinion at another shop. Rotor and hub assembly bullshit is annoying to deal with, but there is no legit reason to charge that much.
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May 4, 2016 07:13
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My dad has a '69 Olds 442 that's been sitting in the garage for ~18 years. What's all gonna have to be done to get it in running shape?
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May 4, 2016 21:12
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Eskaton posted:My dad has a '69 Olds 442 that's been sitting in the garage for ~18 years. What's all gonna have to be done to get it in running shape? Check how rusty it is and whether the engine's seized and take it from there. If the answers to both of those are "no, it's fine", it may well respond to (relatively) minor recommissioning.
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May 4, 2016 21:44
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Or you can sell it for $15k and buy something that needs no work! Automotive Sanity.
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May 4, 2016 21:59
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Weird question. I have a 2014 Ford Taurus I'm trying to diagnose myself. The problem is I get a weird vibration in the morning when I first get on the highway that lasts about 3 miles then sorts itself out. It feels like an out of balance tire. Its been like this for about 3 months now. I thought it was my old tires so I got new ones about a month ago. Same issue still happening. I don't get why it happens only on the highway around 65-70 but then stops after a little while. If it was an out of balance tire or a wheel, it would be the whole ride. The dealer checked it out and couldn't find anything wrong. They road force balanced the tires and it didn't help. I rotated the new tires for the hell of it and it still does it. Any ideas?
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May 4, 2016 22:41
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Unbalanced tires are often only "vibratey" at certain speeds. Like fine from 0-45, terrible from 45-52, then fine again. I've never had one that was consistently shaky through the whole range.
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May 4, 2016 23:19
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Astonishing Wang posted:Or you can sell it for $15k and buy something that needs no work! Automotive Sanity. But then you don't have a 442.
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May 5, 2016 01:30
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Window Tint Q: I would like to tint the windows of my e30 for heat and uv protection, but don't want to change the looks a whole lot from the period. Ideally I'm thinking a light tint (well, has to be, legally, in CA) with a green-aqua color, like you saw in tinted glass (as opposed to tint application) from the 70s and 80s. Is this a reasonable goal? Likely to be expensive compared to basic black? Suggestions for specific colors/tints? e: Kinda like this but less so 
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May 5, 2016 01:36
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Astonishing Wang posted:Or you can sell it for $15k and buy something that needs no work! Automotive Sanity. Buy my 2007 350z HR with 45k miles?
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May 5, 2016 01:41
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Eskaton posted:My dad has a '69 Olds 442 that's been sitting in the garage for ~18 years. What's all gonna have to be done to get it in running shape?
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May 5, 2016 16:41
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My new rental Fiesta chirps lodly whenever I lock or unlock the doors with the key fob. Any way to dusable that? This is more than a bit annoying because I'm now in South Africa and am trying to call as little attention to my whitey rear end as possible.
mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 07:45 on May 6, 2016 |
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May 6, 2016 07:41
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Eskaton posted:My dad has a '69 Olds 442 that's been sitting in the garage for ~18 years. What's all gonna have to be done to get it in running shape? What ever you end up doing with it, make sure you get a Bocephus sticker for it and light 'em up just for fun.
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May 6, 2016 10:30
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mobby_6kl posted:My new rental Fiesta chirps lodly whenever I lock or unlock the doors with the key fob. Any way to dusable that? This is more than a bit annoying because I'm now in South Africa and am trying to call as little attention to my whitey rear end as possible. Usually there's a way to set it via the obd2 port, so ask your Ford dealer. I know that's not very helpful for a rental car, sorry. 
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May 6, 2016 10:32
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If you have steering controls, hold either vol + or enter while putting the key in. This usually enters factory service mode and lets you change certain things, view engine hours, etc.
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May 6, 2016 10:35
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I can see two belts under the hood of my 2004 Impreza TS. A terrible thing has happened to one of them. Not the one that goes around the alternator, but the other one. What is that belt? Here is a picture of it.  And here's a closeup of the spinny thing that seems to have split in half.  Hard to see but there's a round thing behind the long thing that seems to be half of the spinny thing.  I fished out the round thing. E: I checked The Internet, and it said that's the AC belt. So if I pop the old belt off, it's safe to drive to the car parts store and buy a new belt and Spinny Thing, right? GameCube fucked around with this message at 13:14 on May 6, 2016 |
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May 6, 2016 13:00
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that's a tensioner and the belt is the serpentine belt. thankfully it's not the timing belt or your engine could have destroyed itself You need to have the tensioner replaced and also the belt. Don't drive it like that, it will overheat and drain the battery. E: if it's just the AC belt it should be fine but I can't really tell from the pic. Anyone want to weigh in on this?
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May 6, 2016 13:16
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Is the above what happens with a generation that never played The Incredible Machine?
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May 6, 2016 13:17
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I played The Incredible Machine, but I was terrible at it. The Internet says there are two accessory belts on this car, an "alternator belt" and an "AC belt," and this is not the belt that goes around the alternator, which is one of the half-dozen components I actually can recognize. I just wasn't sure if the AC belt drove anything besides the AC.
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May 6, 2016 13:27
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It doesn't, you can take it off and drive around no problem. The alternator/power steering belt is the important one. The belts should look like this with all of the poo poo in front of them taken off  The one on the right doesn't matter, the one on the left is important.
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May 6, 2016 13:31
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Memento posted:It doesn't, you can take it off and drive around no problem. The alternator/power steering belt is the important one. Oh, cool, was having trouble finding that info. Thanks.
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May 6, 2016 13:38
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2011 Hyundai Sonata A while back my bluetooth microphone went out - I've tried it on multiple devices, it just can't hear me. I can transmit to it though, so since I could still play music I didn't care too much. But now I've got a new iphone that I need to add, and the car won't let me. I hit "pair" and the first thing it does is ask me to speak my name. "Pardon? Pardon? Pardon? Cancel." Is my only option to get the microphone fixed? I feel like it's going to cost a shitload of money. Shouldn't there be some way to add a device without having to talk to it?
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May 6, 2016 15:06
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GameCube posted:I played The Incredible Machine, but I was terrible at it. I was kidding around at your expense because spinny thingies are called pulleys. I recall The Incredible Machine being my first exposure to some mechanical terms.
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May 6, 2016 15:09
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mobby_6kl posted:My new rental Fiesta chirps lodly whenever I lock or unlock the doors with the key fob. Any way to dusable that? This is more than a bit annoying because I'm now in South Africa and am trying to call as little attention to my whitey rear end as possible. Older Fords you could hold down the lock and unlock buttons on the fob to turn that on/off. Look in the manual.
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May 6, 2016 19:02
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The Ferret King posted:I was kidding around at your expense because spinny thingies are called pulleys. I'd heard the term, but for some reason my brain associated it with the whole assembly, not just the spinny bit. I cut the belt and yanked out the pieces for now, but apparently this went on long enough that it cut through the timing belt cover in two places. I've been looking under the hood a lot lately, so either this happened really fast, or I'm really, really unobservant. The timing belt's overdue for a replacement anyway.
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May 6, 2016 19:09
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My car is a 2003 Volkswagen Beetle 2.0 L 4-cylinder with 80,000 miles on it. I put a new transmission in the car three years ago, and replaced the battery and tires within the last year. Recently, it wouldn't start when I was leaving work, so I got a tow and took it to a mechanic. It needs a new camshaft sensor, timing belt, and two fuel injectors. Here in the DC metro area, that kind of labor is very expensive and the work is going to cost a total of about $3300. Initially, my husband and I thought it best to have the work done and sell my car. I mentioned this to the mechanic and he said that the rest of the parts on the car look really good, and honestly that this big expense will get me another 100,000 miles on that car. I asked if he would sell it and he said he wouldn't. My husband currently drives 2002 Volkswagen Passat 2.8 L V6 with about 42,000 miles on it. It has had a few minor problems like automatic window malfunctions and a turn signal relay issue, but has been reliable. We need to replace one of these cars. We're trying to figure out if it makes more sense for us to sell the Passat or the Beetle. If I'm really going to get that much more mileage out of the Beetle, I'm keen to keep it, but am ultimately unsure if it makes sense financially. Thoughts?
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May 6, 2016 21:05
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I wouldn't count on either of those cars being mechanically sound for long. You're balls deep in an era that's earned VW a bad reputation.
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May 6, 2016 21:09
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jackpot posted:2011 Hyundai Sonata Aftermarket stereo + aftermarket bluetooth parrot thingy is the least painful and cheapest way out of this. MsJoelBoxer posted:My car is a 2003 Volkswagen Beetle 2.0 L 4-cylinder with 80,000 miles on it. I put a new transmission in the car three years ago, and replaced the battery and tires within the last year. Recently, it wouldn't start when I was leaving work, so I got a tow and took it to a mechanic. It needs a new camshaft sensor, timing belt, and two fuel injectors. Here in the DC metro area, that kind of labor is very expensive and the work is going to cost a total of about $3300. Any mechanic who tells you this about a vw beetle with 80,000 miles on the clock is either a raging ignoramus, a massive fool or a cunning bastard who knows more terrible poo poo will happen soon and make him more money. It's just wildly untrue. Both of those cars are terrible but the beetle is genuinely atrocious by 'normal' car standards. Stop buying vw's. Not hyperbolising, I'm speaking as a mechanic who's had to deal with far too many of them to be nice. I would sell the passat because it's worth more and hasn't broken down yet, buy a decent car then sell the beetle ASAP. Godholio posted:I wouldn't count on either of those cars being mechanically sound for long. You're balls deep in an era that's earned VW a bad reputation. If by era you mean every year since 1985 then yeah.
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May 6, 2016 21:24
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How do I sale car. Is there a thread or a post with good information on how to sell a car on Craigslist? I've never dealt with a private car sale. I assume it's as simple as doing up a bill of sale and signing the title in the right place, but I've seen that screwed up before and had it screwed up on a motorcycle I bought. Alternately, is it true that trade-in value at a dealership is going to be well below what I could get in a private sale? 98 Ranger, 4.0L 4x4 with non-collision cosmetic damage (couple little dents and stuff, nothing big.).
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May 6, 2016 21:44
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Slavvy posted:Aftermarket stereo + aftermarket bluetooth parrot thingy is the least painful and cheapest way out of this. 
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May 6, 2016 21:47
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:How do I sale car. Yes to everything here, unless your local area has weird laws. The dealer will pay you less for it because they want to turn a profit.
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May 6, 2016 21:49
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