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That's awesome tiling style. I want to put in tiling like that in my bathroom one day.
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Apr 2, 2013 16:18
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katkillad2 posted:Yes, the engine burnt out in the bathroom celing fan. It does have a vent that I assume vents into the attic. I can't really give you much advice on hooking the fan up without a picture, but since you're working on the fan anyway, you should check if your assumption above is true. If it's venting directly into the attic, it shouldn't be. It can pass through a duct in the attic on it's way to the outside, but not into the attic itself. If it is venting into the attic, then I'd be willing to bet you'll have a fun time picking mushrooms out of your parent's insulation and rafters up there. As for the motor, you've already got some answers here, but if you want something more specific maybe we could get some pictures?
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Apr 2, 2013 16:19
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stubblyhead posted:I'm not sure it would have mattered if I did, considering you ignored what I said about post-it notes. But in the event it does, ceramic or hard plastic to wood. I think what you're looking for is called "fugitive glue." Here's the wiki on it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fugitive_glue I really don't know much about it. I just know of it because I know people that are into crafts that use it. I know they use some kind of special glue gun to apply it, but I have no idea if that's really necessary. If Amazon is any indication, the glue and gun are super expensive, but it seems they have dot rolls that seem more reasonable. That's about all I know, I hope at least it points you in the right direction. Ed. - You mentioned rubber cement... I don't know if I'd go that route. I mean, I used to do that all the time in grade school, but I guess it depends on how temporary you need it to be. I remember the rubber cement drying out and losing it's tack pretty quick. I'd probably go with hot glue in your situation over either rubber cement of fugitive glue, honestly. Ceramic can be heavy, and hot glue comes apart pretty easy, and even more so with a hairdryer. Killing Flies fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Apr 2, 2013 |
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Apr 2, 2013 16:25
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Kaluza-Klein posted:I am slow... Not helpful but love that bathroom. 30s?
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Apr 2, 2013 16:57
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Killing Flies posted:I really depends on your native climate and what you currently have installed. I can only speak to my experience in the northern US, and I'll just assume this isn't the old batt with the asphalt saturated facing... In the finest traditions of SA, here is a lovely MS paint that probably makes it less clear. Orange is the only existing insulation in the garage attic, blue is where I am looking at adding.  quote:If I were you, I'd run a test. Get some 6 mil plastic sheeting and some seaming tape and seal the plastic over a stud bay and see if it fogs up after a day or two. If it doesn't, I'd go with the rigid. Lay it in there, use seaming tape on the edges, and use some minimal expanding foam on the gaps. If it does, then I'd pull the batt out and start over. If that's too much work then the non-faced batt is probably your best bet, but I can't say for sure it won't cause moisture problems. Climate is midwest. Louisville KY, specifically, but about a hundred miles south of Cincinnati. The plastic sheeting idea is inspired and I am going to run with that, I think. Thank you!
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Apr 2, 2013 17:27
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Killing Flies posted:I think what you're looking for is called "fugitive glue." Here's the wiki on it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fugitive_glue Yep, that's exactly the stuff I was thinking of, but wow super expensive! When I say ceramic to wood, I'm not talking like a big vase or anything like that, I'm talking tchotchkes in a shadow box. My wife basically wants something that will keep tiny things like that in place so they won't all topple at the slightest breeze.
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Apr 2, 2013 17:40
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What's the line between doing it right and doing it lazy on drywall repair? An inside corner in my bedroom split about 6 years ago. It hasn't changed size since, it's stable seasonally, and it's sitting at less than 1/16 of an inch wide. Do I go to the trouble of cleaning it up, taping (because re-taping would imply the builder taped it to begin with), and trying to match the existing knockdown, or do I just cram some joint compound in there and call it good? stubblyhead posted:Yep, that's exactly the stuff I was thinking of, but wow super expensive! When I say ceramic to wood, I'm not talking like a big vase or anything like that, I'm talking tchotchkes in a shadow box. My wife basically wants something that will keep tiny things like that in place so they won't all topple at the slightest breeze. If the house is air conditioned and the shadow box doesn't get direct sunlight, low-temp hot glue would probably work and is easily removed (and super cheap). Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Apr 2, 2013 |
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Apr 2, 2013 17:41
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jackyl posted:In the finest traditions of SA, here is a lovely MS paint that probably makes it less clear. Orange is the only existing insulation in the garage attic, blue is where I am looking at adding. Yeah, it looks like you're considering adding an additional vapor barrier on the cold side. Your average temps are warmer than what I experience, but still cold enough to make putting that vapor barrier on the cold side a potential issue. I'd put some sheeting up as a test and go off that. We're heading into spring, and that means we're going to be getting some warm weather and losing the dryness of winter. I'd leave that sheeting up for a few days to a few weeks. Keep checking it, especially in the morning and after a rainstorm or humid day. A little fog on the inside of the sheet might not seem like a big deal, but even a little moisture will promote mold and rot once it's sealed up with another barrier. If you see any, it's going to be less painful in the long run to just take it down and do it right.
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Apr 2, 2013 18:09
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stubblyhead posted:Yep, that's exactly the stuff I was thinking of, but wow super expensive! When I say ceramic to wood, I'm not talking like a big vase or anything like that, I'm talking tchotchkes in a shadow box. My wife basically wants something that will keep tiny things like that in place so they won't all topple at the slightest breeze. Then I probably wouldn't blow $140 on it either. Like I said before and Molten Llama just mentioned, I'd probably just go with some simple hot glue. A tiny little dab will keep them in place and comes off without too much hassle. Total cost - like $5 for a gun and some glue, maybe. The principal is essentially the same as the fugitive glue, except this dries harder. It's also reactivated by heat, so if you have trouble removing it later, just take a hairdryer to it and it should soften it back up. Ed. - Or check into those dot rolls. I found a product on Amazon that looks like it fits the bill and doesn't cost an arm and a leg: http://www.amazon.com/Glue-Dots-Per...IN%3DB001QFZDW8 Killing Flies fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Apr 2, 2013 |
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Apr 2, 2013 18:14
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Killing Flies posted:Yeah, it looks like you're considering adding an additional vapor barrier on the cold side. Your average temps are warmer than what I experience, but still cold enough to make putting that vapor barrier on the cold side a potential issue. I'd put some sheeting up as a test and go off that. We're heading into spring, and that means we're going to be getting some warm weather and losing the dryness of winter. I'd leave that sheeting up for a few days to a few weeks. Keep checking it, especially in the morning and after a rainstorm or humid day. A little fog on the inside of the sheet might not seem like a big deal, but even a little moisture will promote mold and rot once it's sealed up with another barrier. If you see any, it's going to be less painful in the long run to just take it down and do it right. This is where I was getting confused. I considered pulling the existing batt and replacing it with unfaced, then adding the foamboard, but that would still give me a vapor barrier on the warm side and potentially trap moisture between painted drywall and the foam board. So, my next plan was to just put additional unfaced batt where the blue lines are to keep the existing batt facing on the warm side. Wouldn't that have less moisture buildup potential while still increasing the R value of those walls? Or I could pay a guy to sprayfoam it, too, which I have considered.
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Apr 2, 2013 18:25
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jackyl posted:Or I could pay a guy to sprayfoam it, too, which I have considered. For something that simple that you don't need perfect thickness consistency, grab a DIY spray foam kit. But if you are taking the bats out, just replace with extruded poly and great stuff the gaps. Super cheap and works great.
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Apr 2, 2013 18:31
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:For something that simple that you don't need perfect thickness consistency, grab a DIY spray foam kit. I looked into those a while back, but thought it was about the same price to just have a pro do it. After your comment, though, I found this one. It does seem like an attractive option, so thanks for prodding me to look at it again!
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Apr 2, 2013 19:15
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Molten Llama posted:What's the line between doing it right and doing it lazy on drywall repair? It sounds like you know how to fix drywall cracks right. It really comes down to how much of an eyesore it is for you. Patching drywall is easy, it just takes time for each layer to dry.
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Apr 2, 2013 20:03
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jackyl posted:This is where I was getting confused. I considered pulling the existing batt and replacing it with unfaced, then adding the foamboard, but that would still give me a vapor barrier on the warm side and potentially trap moisture between painted drywall and the foam board. So, my next plan was to just put additional unfaced batt where the blue lines are to keep the existing batt facing on the warm side. Wouldn't that have less moisture buildup potential while still increasing the R value of those walls? Or I could pay a guy to sprayfoam it, too, which I have considered. You have the right idea. Taking it down and doing it right would involve putting a vapor barrier in the warm side. Since it's a finished wall and you only have access to the attic side, that means putting up 6mil sheeting in the stud bays and wrapping each stud, then putting your insulation in over that. It's more of a pain than putting it up under the drywall, but it's doable. Then again like you already found out, spray foam takes care of the whole thing in one go and is definitely the better way to go in this case so long as you can go the more costly route. What you'll probably want to do is go for 1" of spray foam, leaving room still in the stud bays, then fill that in with batt. I did this last summer in a home that had zero insulation in a kitchen addition, and the difference was pretty dramatic.
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Apr 2, 2013 21:27
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dwoloz posted:Not helpful but love that bathroom. 30s? The house is 1927 I believe, I have no idea when that bathroom dates to. We are renting, but we're in love. The ceilings are sky high and you could drive a car down the hallways. It is dripping with charm, and still manages a super modern ikea kitchen. There is also asbestos in the huge basement and lead paint somewhere in the walls, but no one is perfect. Any thoughts on what the walls are in home of this era in the southern US? My cheap stud finder couldn't find poo poo when I was putting up a curtain rod, but when I tested with a tiny drill bit, I never felt the bit fly out the other side of the wall. I used screws with no anchors and they hold super firm.
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Apr 3, 2013 01:15
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Associate Christ
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It is almost certainly lath and plaster.
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Apr 3, 2013 02:16
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Wasn't sure to put this in the wiring thread or here, but here's the deal: I've been in an old rental for over the last year. I live in Houston and normally during the winter my electricity runs about 40-60 bucks a month. During August, which was the hottest month and the AC was running probably 24/7 all month, my bill was $120. So, I got my bill for electricity this month, and I was obviously shocked when it was for $340...nearly three times the hottest month, and we're only in April. Last month the bill was 45 bucks. Obviously I'm freaking out thinking they misread the bill. On the bill, I noticed that they said they had replaced my meter during this billing cycle (the increased bill). They say it started at 00 Kwh and ended at about 3700 Kwh. I normally use about 400 (winter)-1100 (summer) Kwh/month, so 3700 seems unlikely. I went and checked the meter today (about a week or two after receiving the bill) and it's already at 4800 Kwh. Note that the only thing that has changed in the past month was I installed a newer modem. I actually got rid of a fish tank that probably had a few hundred watts of electronics so I figured my bill would go down a bit. I've called up the electric company and they are sending someone to recheck the meter, but I'm worried that it seems the meter is reading legit. However, if they look at my past history, they've gotta be able to see that I think it would be impossible to run a bill that high on this house. Is it possible the meter itself is broken or running too quick? That would coincide with the high bill but I have no idea how to test it. It's also Texas so the electricity is unregulated so you have the actual power coming from CenterPoint but I'm dealing with a third party (Bounce energy) that kind of sells the electricity to me, as far as I understand it. nwin fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Apr 3, 2013 |
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Apr 3, 2013 02:29
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Buy one of those clip-on smart meters & start comparing daily its report versus the house meter. They're not 100% accurate but they should show you pretty close whether your meter is bulling you.
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Apr 3, 2013 07:42
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Our house was built in 1958. Gorgeous pine floors throughout, except the kitchen/dining room. Kitchen is vinyl, DR is gross carpet and plywood subfloor. We want to replace these with something appropriate to the time period. The dining room is wood panelled with pine (painted white, then yellow, then pink, all lead paint... We're fixing that.) and the cabinets will be refinished white at some point. We want to modernise with 1958-style, if that makes sense.  The whole long room. About 30' by 14'. Appliances are goldenrod yellow original whirlpool, except the fridge.  The kitchen. I really want a white flooring. We'd like NOT to put pine down in those rooms, at the very least not in the kitchen. Ceramic tile would be great, but doesn't fit the style. Kentile is what I want but we're a little too late there! Edit: oh god I'm so sorry y'all. Timg'd. I was phone posting. Editx2: Yeah, we knew we had lead paint. If you're buying a pre-1960 house and the seller says there's no lead paint, they're lying. We're removing the paint in the kitchen because we want the paneling to show. Everywhere else we just painted over. Tourette Meltdown fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Apr 3, 2013 |
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Apr 3, 2013 09:51
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^^^use timg with your giant pictures please. Just to follow up on some of the lead paint comments: If your house is older than 1960 I promise you have lead paint. The standard mediation is painting over the wall "sealing in" the lead paint. Attempting to remove lead paint is inherently dangerous as you will introduce chips flakes and dust. Lead paint sealed in is safe. Lead paint is only dangerous if inhaled or ingested. So much like asbestos, your safest move is to leave it in place and cover over it. And don't eat paint chips.
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Apr 3, 2013 14:01
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You could do black and while tile like this: http://www.houzz.com/photos/915871/Case-Design-and-Remodeling-of-San-Jose-traditional-kitchen-san-francisco Though I would think long and hard before trying to remove lead paint from that paneling. First because it's lead paint and second because paneling has been out of style for a while and isn't likely to come back into style any time soon. If you search "retro kitchen" on houzz you won't see any paneling. And if you search "paneling" you only see newer, more modern paneling in more of an industrial loft style.
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Apr 3, 2013 15:00
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:You could do black and while tile like this: Yeah! Someone just linked me to Modularity Tiles this morning and I've been looking at their designs - so dreamy! As to the lead paint - too late! It's about 75% done. The paneling is 3/4" t&g old growth pine, and it's BEAUTIFUL. I so don't recommend anyone tackle lead paint, though. Ever. We have all kinds of crazy safety gear, and a VERY well-ventilated room (giant sliding glass door to the deck). I can't work on it any more since I'm pregnant, so it's been my husband and my dad doing the work. Luckily, the hard part is almost done, and we'll just need to finish cleaning the wood and seal it. We're going for this kind of look -  More 60's-ish than a lot of the retro stuff you see, yes, but the house WAS built in '58. We want to keep that late 50's feel. And maybe one day we'll decide we hate it and rip the wood out, who knows!
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Apr 3, 2013 15:52
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Tourette Meltdown posted:
Look at poured flooring. You pour a layer of flooring down, and then sprinkle chips into it for color. Then it's standard wax or floor finish of your choice. You can put as much color in as you wish, including none. The floors take super-high-gloss, high-gloss, gloss, and satin pretty well. Matte finishes look really dingy, though. I know "floor wax," urethane, and poly finishes work, as I've used all three on different floors. I don't really know what the flooring is; I was told variously it's vinyl, epoxy, resin, and linoleum by installers. The buckets just said "seamless poured flooring solution PART A."
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Apr 3, 2013 18:15
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My preferred method of paint removal (including lead) is chemical. SmartStrip by Dumond worked best for me and is not caustic like Jasco or others. Best strategy is to buy LOTS of stripper (very expensive but you'll need it) and apply it in very heavy coatings and then cover it with plastic to keep it from drying out. 24 hours later discard the plastic and scrape the goop in to a recovery bucket to use again as necessary. You can reuse it many times (and at 40 bucks a gallon you'll be glad) I stripped a whole house back to bare wood using this method and it worked well (but isn't cheap and takes a lot of time). Pictures here http://imgur.com/a/srpJG
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Apr 3, 2013 19:27
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Look at poured flooring. You pour a layer of flooring down, and then sprinkle chips into it for color. Then it's standard wax or floor finish of your choice. You can put as much color in as you wish, including none. The floors take super-high-gloss, high-gloss, gloss, and satin pretty well. Matte finishes look really dingy, though. I know "floor wax," urethane, and poly finishes work, as I've used all three on different floors. I don't really know what the flooring is; I was told variously it's vinyl, epoxy, resin, and linoleum by installers. The buckets just said "seamless poured flooring solution PART A." We're DIYing everything, so... is this something one man and his pregnant wife and possibly her dad could do? I'll look it up. dwoloz, that house is so beautiful it makes me sick. Let's trade! We shopped around some 20s-30s bungalows in the area but everything in our price range needed a new roof, and no seller was willing to put a new roof. We ended up going through insurance for a roof on the house we DID buy, but we got "lucky" and there was an awful wind/hail storm a few months after we moved in.
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Apr 3, 2013 20:51
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Tourette Meltdown posted:We're DIYing everything, so... is this something one man and his pregnant wife and possibly her dad could do? I'll look it up. Yep! It's readily available and most commonly sold for use in garages today (Behr even has relatively mediocre version at Home Depot), but newer formulas and nicer color bits have led to some popularity as an unconventional interior floor. Modern terrazzo installations are usually based on the same technology. That being said, the options I'm aware of require ventilating the hell out of the room or avoiding use for multiple days, so maybe not the best option while you're still pregnant or needing to use the kitchen.
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Apr 3, 2013 21:27
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Molten Llama posted:Yep! It's readily available and most commonly sold for use in garages today (Behr even has relatively mediocre version at Home Depot), but newer formulas and nicer color bits have led to some popularity as an unconventional interior floor. Modern terrazzo installations are usually based on the same technology. I'll look it up in 6 months!
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Apr 3, 2013 21:29
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I have an aluminum garage door and want to install a mailslot. I'm reading online and everyone is saying to use a jigsaw to cut the template out, but I don't have one. I do have an angle grinder though. Would it be ok to use this, or is it not accurate enough? I wouldn't mind spending the money for a jigsaw, but I would hardly ever use it.
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Apr 3, 2013 21:32
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nwin posted:Wasn't sure to put this in the wiring thread or here, but here's the deal: I've seen really crazy stuff like electric water heaters that are broken and peg the entire circuit for a month. Check to make sure the major appliances aren't acting screwy. Hell, see if your meter is spinning fast right now and start turning off breakers and see how much lower it goes. You may be able to start isolating the problem.
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Apr 4, 2013 00:59
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Bank posted:I have an aluminum garage door and want to install a mailslot. I'm reading online and everyone is saying to use a jigsaw to cut the template out, but I don't have one. I do have an angle grinder though. Would it be ok to use this, or is it not accurate enough? I wouldn't mind spending the money for a jigsaw, but I would hardly ever use it. Assuming it is an oval... Drill out the ends and then cut the lines. Do you have a sawzall or hacksaw blade?
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Apr 4, 2013 01:05
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Hed posted:I've seen really crazy stuff like electric water heaters that are broken and peg the entire circuit for a month. Check to make sure the major appliances aren't acting screwy. Hell, see if your meter is spinning fast right now and start turning off breakers and see how much lower it goes. You may be able to start isolating the problem. I actually found out they installed a smart meter that I can track online. For four days it was reading zero then it spiked to 3000, so obviously there's a problem somewhere. Also, the days before and after the 3000 kwh spike were using only about 15-20 kwh per day, so there's gotta be something that read wrong...it's just trying to convince the power company of that. nwin fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Apr 4, 2013 |
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Apr 4, 2013 01:48
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Bank posted:I have an aluminum garage door and want to install a mailslot. I'm reading online and everyone is saying to use a jigsaw to cut the template out, but I don't have one. I do have an angle grinder though. Would it be ok to use this, or is it not accurate enough? I wouldn't mind spending the money for a jigsaw, but I would hardly ever use it. Sure, your angle grinder will work, but you will run into a problem when you try to match up the corners. Unless the slot you are mounting has a massive trim piece, you will end up cutting over your lines. You may be able to pull it off with a sacrificial drill bit that you treat like a rotozip and slide down your cut lines, but this will probably end up costing more that just either buying a hacksaw or a cheap rear end jigsaw with a few metal bits. If you go the jigsaw route, follow Xmas gift's advice and drill two pilot holes at opposing corners with a bit larger than your saw blade.
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Apr 4, 2013 04:25
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Bank posted:I have an aluminum garage door and want to install a mailslot. I'm reading online and everyone is saying to use a jigsaw to cut the template out, but I don't have one. I do have an angle grinder though. Would it be ok to use this, or is it not accurate enough? I wouldn't mind spending the money for a jigsaw, but I would hardly ever use it. If its rectangular, mark the slot, drill small holes at each corner and cut between the holes with your angle grinder. Quite easy & should take you 20 minutes total.
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Apr 4, 2013 15:32
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The rear of my office building is a huge unfinished warehouse space with no insulation. In the summer it will end up being close to 100 degrees back there with probably 90+% humidity. There's almost no air movement, and it can really make the building start smelling funky. There's a garage door in the back, but I can't leave it open for security reasons. What are some relatively cheap methods to fix this? Would sticking a couple fans back there to keep the air moving have any effect?
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Apr 5, 2013 03:00
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We were made to replace the outlets in our old home's kitchen with GFCIs. The new owners wanted them all done (who knows) so that is what we did... Apparently the new covers are a whole lot less wide than the originals. How can we make that not look like poo poo? This is the pic the electrician sent me to let me know he had done it which makes me kinda :/. I would have done it myself, but there were things that needed fixed in the breaker box that I was too chicken to deal with so I got lazy.
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Apr 5, 2013 16:04
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Get bigger ones? :iamafag: http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=SO26 http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=S746-N Also your electrician has no class.
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Apr 5, 2013 16:19
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202059...64#.UV7riKswK5I Your electrician doesn't know that oversized wall plates exist?
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Apr 5, 2013 16:19
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Regarding the mail slot -- Thanks for the tips. I just realized I have a Dremel Multi Max in the garage. I used it maybe once the past three years so I didn't even realize I still had it. Seems to be the perfect tool for the job.
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Apr 5, 2013 17:06
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Some bathroom floor tiles make a hollow sound when tapped. They've done so ever since they were installed (not very long ago). I know this is bad, but how bad exactly?
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Apr 5, 2013 17:24
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Namarrgon posted:I know this is bad, but how bad exactly? They're covering a gateway to a pocket universe filled with babydolls with vampire fangs that want to eat your toes. I'd recommend selling the house. Serious edit: Sounds like the tile didn't bond to the thinset.
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Apr 5, 2013 17:40
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