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When shooting black and white film outdoors in daylight, could I use a linear polarizer to sufficiently darken the sky instead of using a yellow filter?
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# ? Aug 13, 2011 20:26 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 22:31 |
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So i'm going to a concert in Boston (KMFDM) and I really want to bring my film camera (Maxxum 5) since I bought a few months ago and have YET to shoot on it. It's pretty much my first film camera and was wondering if anyone else shoots concerts on film anymore and if you do what kind of film would you suggest? I hear the lighting is pretty decent in the venue (Royale) so just any suggestions and tips would be great.
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# ? Aug 13, 2011 20:54 |
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GWBBQ posted:I've never heard of it, it's perfect. It's a fine-grain developer that is supposedly like Microdol-X.
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# ? Aug 13, 2011 21:54 |
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Augmented Dickey posted:When shooting black and white film outdoors in daylight, could I use a linear polarizer to sufficiently darken the sky instead of using a yellow filter? A yellow filter might give you a bit more dramatic effect, but yes, it will work. Photex posted:So i'm going to a concert in Boston (KMFDM) and I really want to bring my film camera (Maxxum 5) since I bought a few months ago and have YET to shoot on it. It's pretty much my first film camera and was wondering if anyone else shoots concerts on film anymore and if you do what kind of film would you suggest? I hear the lighting is pretty decent in the venue (Royale) so just any suggestions and tips would be great. drat, I thought sascha was old 10 years ago, he must be in his 50s now. Get some tri-x and push as needed, it can look pretty decent even up to ISO 3200.
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 02:28 |
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Okay that sounds good, ill get a roll of that and maybe a roll of Fuji pro 400 just to try out
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 03:21 |
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One Honeywell Heiland Pentax H3 (sticking mirror and stuck second shutter curtain), with Asahi Copal coupled CdS meter (mercury battery included), and Sankyo Kohki Komura 135mm f/2.8. $25 from Goodwill. The body's broken, the meter'll need me to buy another WeinCell, and the lens is excellent on my Spotmatic (very sharp from what I can see through the viewfinder, and has an awesome-looking 12-bladed aperture). atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Aug 14, 2011 |
# ? Aug 14, 2011 07:36 |
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FasterThanLight posted:A yellow filter might give you a bit more dramatic effect, but yes, it will work. Tried it this morning- honestly I think the polarizer works better than my yellow filter.
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# ? Aug 15, 2011 03:08 |
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Augmented Dickey posted:Tried it this morning- honestly I think the polarizer works better than my yellow filter. Try combining them. A red filter + a polarizer can turn daytime skies pitch black. You can rotate the polarizer to adjust the intensity.
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# ? Aug 15, 2011 03:28 |
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atomicthumbs posted:
Not to pee on your parade, but through-the-viewfinder is not a good way to tell sharpness. It's probably 0.75x real size, maybe 0.95x. Even old turn-of-the-century box cameras are just fine at 1.0x magnification (they had to be, the images were contact printed). That doesn't necessarily imply they will stand up under more magnification (like scanning, or printing). That said, 135mm lenses have been good for a really long time. Because of their long length, there's no need to make them retrofocus. Many are a bit soft wide open, but they were originally sold as portrait lenses so it's working as intended. Like many old lenses, stop down and they'll be fine. Just watch out for flare, at that vintage it may be uncoated or single coated and that will rob all your contrast.
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# ? Aug 15, 2011 03:30 |
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Paul MaudDib posted:Not to pee on your parade, but through-the-viewfinder is not a good way to tell sharpness. It's probably 0.75x real size, maybe 0.95x. Even old turn-of-the-century box cameras are just fine at 1.0x magnification (they had to be, the images were contact printed). That doesn't necessarily imply they will stand up under more magnification (like scanning, or printing). I found some test shots by people who've stuck this lens on their DSLRs, and they do look pretty sharp (and it does look really nice through the viewfinder). Glad to know about the 135mm quality. Unrelated: I want this camera. atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Aug 15, 2011 |
# ? Aug 15, 2011 04:04 |
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GWBBQ posted:I'm going to once again offer a roll of Kodak Technical Pan to anyone who will shoot and develop it. If you want one, let me know and I'll mail it out to you on the 26th. is it 120? what speed is it? i have a nice bw #29 filter that'll go nicely with it but long exposures are a pain to shoot on my cameras
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# ? Aug 15, 2011 19:26 |
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guidoanselmi posted:is it 120? what speed is it? i have a nice bw #29 filter that'll go nicely with it but long exposures are a pain to shoot on my cameras technical pan is a document film, so the speed changes depending on the developer you use and the contrast you want, but 25 is normal
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# ? Aug 15, 2011 20:08 |
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yeah looks like i'd have fun with it in the desert
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# ? Aug 15, 2011 23:26 |
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Augmented Dickey posted:When shooting black and white film outdoors in daylight, could I use a linear polarizer to sufficiently darken the sky instead of using a yellow filter? Use a red filter on top of a circular polarizer for the ultimate in black sky madness. If there are puffy clouds in the sky the effect is even more dramatic. EDIT: http://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/pic/781746#781746 Old shot but it give an idea how strong the effect is.
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# ? Aug 16, 2011 00:00 |
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So I've just put a roll through an old crusty Canonet and I'm starting to fall in love with film... and the money that would have gone towards an upgrade of my digital gear is starting to look better and better for getting a nicer film rangefinder instead. I was wondering what my options are? From my cursory investigations, it's sounding like my best bet is a Bessa R2 or R3? The fact that it uses M mount lenses is a little intimidating since I'm not quite sure how many I can get my hands on, but it's much better than tracking down and then forking over the money for a second hand M6. Are there any others I might have missed or anything on the horizon?
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# ? Aug 16, 2011 01:20 |
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Contax G1.
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# ? Aug 16, 2011 01:23 |
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Trambopaline posted:So I've just put a roll through an old crusty Canonet and I'm starting to fall in love with film... and the money that would have gone towards an upgrade of my digital gear is starting to look better and better for getting a nicer film rangefinder instead. I was wondering what my options are? From my cursory investigations, it's sounding like my best bet is a Bessa R2 or R3? The fact that it uses M mount lenses is a little intimidating since I'm not quite sure how many I can get my hands on, but it's much better than tracking down and then forking over the money for a second hand M6. Are there any others I might have missed or anything on the horizon? I just used old LTM lenses on cheap adapters when I had my Bessa (sold it to a friend to fund Japan move, hung on to the lenses for my Sony NEX and if I buy another one). M lenses can be spendy, but the LTM glass isn't bad.
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# ? Aug 16, 2011 01:39 |
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The Bessa family are good cameras. Don't let the m-mount scare you, as I understand it, there are good cheap 39-m mount adapters on eBay. This will open your options considerably. But be warned that some lens won't mount properly, like the 35mm 2.8 Jupiter and some of the collapsible ones too. Otherwise, if price is an issue, you could just go for a Canon 7, FED or a Zorki.
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# ? Aug 16, 2011 01:47 |
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My bessa-R was just stolen from me and I am looking to replace it. I will probably get an R2A (debating the longer base and 1:1 of the R3A, though 35mm frames are more my style). Having had an R I would suggest getting an M mount as you can use LTM lenses with an adapter but not the other way around.
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# ? Aug 16, 2011 01:53 |
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Some film pr0n, I'm moving back home so I'm shipping a bunch of cheap film I've been able to pick up in the last few weeks: 50x Rollei Retro (135), 50x Fuji Acros (120), 50x Fomapan 400 (120 and 135) and a box of expired Kodak Ektarchrome.
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# ? Aug 16, 2011 10:16 |
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guidoanselmi posted:is it 120? what speed is it? i have a nice bw #29 filter that'll go nicely with it but long exposures are a pain to shoot on my cameras
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# ? Aug 16, 2011 15:37 |
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Just picked up one of these bad boys on Keh: http://www.rokkorfiles.com/16mm.html 16mm Rokkor-X fisheye Pretty super excited, haven't seen a shipping confirmation yet though...
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# ? Aug 17, 2011 06:54 |
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penneydude posted:Just picked up one of these bad boys on Keh: How much? I've seen those Russian Zenitar 16mm fisheyes going for rather high prices relative to what they are.
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# ? Aug 17, 2011 07:31 |
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penneydude posted:Just picked up one of these bad boys on Keh: I know fish-eye lenses are one-trick ponies but god they look fun. Meanwhile, what the hell happened here? This was a roll of Fuji Kinda sad that the first thing that bugged me about this photo was that I didn't get it straight DJExile fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Aug 17, 2011 |
# ? Aug 17, 2011 14:53 |
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That looks like the result of some automated touch-up gone horribly wrong. Certainly not analog artifacts of any sort.
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# ? Aug 17, 2011 15:48 |
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Yeah, looks like they had the "digital noise/dust reduction" set to warp speed and it hosed everything up :\
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# ? Aug 17, 2011 15:52 |
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http://www.japanexposures.com/shop/ this is the best site ever. they have these little canister/holder thingies for film, so you don't have to go rummaging about in your bag for them anymore!! you can see what i'm talking about here
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# ? Aug 18, 2011 06:39 |
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:http://www.japanexposures.com/shop/ Those look like shot shell holders. Check your local gun shop.
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# ? Aug 18, 2011 06:51 |
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:http://www.japanexposures.com/shop/ They've got some great books there too, along with some Japan only Fuji developers that I'd like to try sometime.
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# ? Aug 18, 2011 06:59 |
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Japan exposures has a lot of great stuff if you like paying a crazy premium for uniqueness.
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# ? Aug 18, 2011 07:40 |
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HPL posted:Those look like shot shell holders. Check your local gun shop. I actually use shot shell holders for my 120 film. I switched from cardboard boxes when I started carrying more than 5 rolls of film at once. Voodoo tactial molle pouches from amazon.
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# ? Aug 18, 2011 11:56 |
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:http://www.japanexposures.com/shop/ This is where I got my Fuji Klasse S from. Brilliant service, he emailed me back and forth and answered all my questions about shipping and such. Only reason I didn't mention them myself was because they were *my* secret goddammit
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# ? Aug 18, 2011 12:23 |
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8th-samurai posted:I actually use shot shell holders for my 120 film. I switched from cardboard boxes when I started carrying more than 5 rolls of film at once. Voodoo tactial molle pouches from amazon. Just went to fiddle around with some 3 and 3.5" 12 gauge and 120 and they have remarkably the same dimensions. Just a bit bigger on the spool rim is about it. EDIT: Wonder if they make one for 10 gauge if it would work. Either way nice find. Ferris Bueller fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Aug 18, 2011 |
# ? Aug 18, 2011 15:05 |
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Ferris Bueller posted:Just went to fiddle around with some 3 and 3.5" 12 gauge and 120 and they have remarkably the same dimensions. Just a bit bigger on the spool rim is about it. There is just enough difference that 120 film in it's wrapper doesn't quite fit into the elastic loops in one of these http://www.amazon.com/Voodoo-Tactical-Compatible-Shotgun-AmmoPouch/dp/B0027QUJZ6/ref=pd_sim_sg_6. So I cut them out and I can fit 7 rolls in one pouch single stacked and maybe up to 12 if I jam them in there.
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# ? Aug 18, 2011 15:20 |
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Spedman posted:along with some Japan only Fuji developers that I'd like to try sometime. Kodak Japan discontinued HC-110 a few years ago, which I was a little miffed to discover when I got here. I may just order 3 bottles from the States (along with some 120 Acros 100, because it's like half the cost to buy it in America, lmao), which should last me a good while. Reichstag posted:Japan exposures has a lot of great stuff if you like paying a crazy premium for uniqueness. It's definitely not awesome living here off of savings in US dollars, but on the other hand I get my first paycheck (in yen) tomorrow, and I'm already in the mindset of looking back on American sites at how stupidly cheap everything is
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# ? Aug 18, 2011 16:06 |
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So i shot KMFDM last night on my Maxxum 5 with the Tri-X 400, where can I get this poo poo developed? Can I just bring it into a 1 Hour photo like CVS or something and have them develop it or is that not a great idea?
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# ? Aug 18, 2011 17:38 |
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Photex posted:So i shot KMFDM last night on my Maxxum 5 with the Tri-X 400, where can I get this poo poo developed? Can I just bring it into a 1 Hour photo like CVS or something and have them develop it or is that not a great idea? Places like that will develop B&W film but as i understand it they'll almost always put it on color paper, so the whole thing is more grayscale. If you like that look then hey , but I think for full B&W development you either do it yourself or send it out to a lab.
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# ? Aug 18, 2011 18:07 |
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Photex posted:So i shot KMFDM last night on my Maxxum 5 with the Tri-X 400, where can I get this poo poo developed? Can I just bring it into a 1 Hour photo like CVS or something and have them develop it or is that not a great idea? No sir, as far as I know there aren't any 1-hour photo places that do true black and white film. See if there are any dedicated photo labs, or some of the other guys here can point you to a place that you ship your film off to have it processed. edit-- well maybe I'm wrong. I thought those 1-hour labs could only do C-41 processing. Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Aug 18, 2011 |
# ? Aug 18, 2011 18:08 |
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most of the private labs i've seen in the area only do C-41 too :/
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# ? Aug 18, 2011 18:27 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 22:31 |
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DJExile posted:do it yourself
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# ? Aug 18, 2011 18:46 |