|
MG3 posted:Usually I just push in the clutch and cruise until I get to a stoplight or something, but I'll have to try this idea next time I use the car. On a modern car it'll save you on gas because the computer cuts fuel in this situation.
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 00:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 08:54 |
|
|
Godholio posted:On a modern car it'll save you on gas because the computer cuts fuel in this situation. Its a 2001 Nissan Sentra, I'm not sure thats a modern car.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 00:44
|
|
|
MG3 posted:Its a 2001 Nissan Sentra, I'm not sure thats a modern car. Modern enough
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 00:48
|
|
|
Yeah for the purpose of this discussion "modern" basically means any vehicle with EFI, I'm pretty sure my old Blazer with TBI did it and that was a 91.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 00:54
|
|
|
My 91 Integra also cut fuel in the same situation, if the owner's manual was to be believed. Worth noting is downshifting every time you slow down will accelerate clutch wear. I generally only consider it worth doing while going downhill, otherwise if I'm coming to a stop I just leave the car in gear until it drops below 1k. If I'm slowing for a turn I'll drop into 2nd (or 3rd if it's less than a 90 degree turn) just before entering the turn, that way I'm ready to accelerate out of the turn.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 01:20
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:My 91 Integra also cut fuel in the same situation, if the owner's manual was to be believed. What i do as Im slowing down is just throw it it neutral and coast as long as I can before I have to brake. I don't down shift or anything else unless the light turns green and my coasting didnt bring me to a stop. I dont drive a ton on roads/routes that I'm not very familiar with so I know how to properly maximize my time in neutral.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 01:21
|
|
|
Even if you just stay in your current gear and just slip into neutral once your engine gets to idle speeds, it's still gonna slow you down faster than coasting, and you use less fuel (idling is pretty economical, but it still uses more fuel than none)
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 01:25
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:Even if you just stay in your current gear and just slip into neutral once your engine gets to idle speeds, it's still gonna slow you down faster than coasting, and you use less fuel (idling is pretty economical, but it still uses more fuel than none) Cool. Im actually new to driving stick shift, I bought one last year after I totaled my automatic. I'm still learning all the tricks. I'm glad that you guys told me about this facet of manual gear cars. I bought one without knowing anything about manual cars and was driving it to work without any lessons the day after I bought it.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 01:31
|
|
|
Just leave it in gear and downshift when you get to about idle (or whenever your car gives attitude about low RPM).
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 01:40
|
|
|
pipebomb posted:Ok, gently caress. First issue: I know, I went to meineke. I was in a hurry before a road trip and couldn't find any other place. I wouldnt mention any of that poo poo to VW and see what they end up quoting you. Ive had more than one shop experience where they bullshitted me about work that wasnt necessary, then took it for a second opinion elsewhere and the second shop didnt mention the "worn" parts at all. Also, find an indie shop you trust.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 01:47
|
|
|
MG3 posted:Cool. Im actually new to driving stick shift, I bought one last year after I totaled my automatic. I'm still learning all the tricks. I'm glad that you guys told me about this facet of manual gear cars. I bought one without knowing anything about manual cars and was driving it to work without any lessons the day after I bought it. That's exactly how I learned to drive manual.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 01:49
|
|
|
Quoting myself from a few pages back as I might be hosed with this and used gearboxes are mucho money.organburner posted:This is probably a stupid question so I'm putting it here. Thing is I already spent like 300-400€ on the clutch kit as well as the usually bearings that break in these gearboxes.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 06:07
|
|
|
Shooting Blanks posted:This is probably a very dumb question, but are battery posts a standard size? I'd love to cancel the order for a $40 terminal clamp and get a cheaper marine battery clamp off Amazon if it'll work - but I don't want to delay the fix if it's not going to fit. Generally yes, however keep in mind that a positive and negative terminal will be different sizes, so you'll want a pack with both in it. Also, just run up to the nearest parts store. They should have them sitting on a rack for $5-7.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 07:17
|
|
|
MG3 posted:Cool. Im actually new to driving stick shift, I bought one last year after I totaled my automatic. I'm still learning all the tricks. I'm glad that you guys told me about this facet of manual gear cars. I bought one without knowing anything about manual cars and was driving it to work without any lessons the day after I bought it. Welcome, brother.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 09:24
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:That's exactly how I learned to drive manual. In Europe they generally teach you to drive stick as part of your lessons, and when you take your test it's in a manual and it includes things like a hill start. You can take the test in an automatic but that means you can only ever drive automatics.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 09:34
|
|
|
Australia has the same thing. I think we're going the way of the US though with fewer and fewer new manual trans cars sold each year
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 10:11
|
|
|
Speaking of driving tests, is this representative for a typical drivers license test in the US? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pec-vRDZi8A Seems extremely simple to get a license.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 15:38
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:Speaking of driving tests, is this representative for a typical drivers license test in the US? It varies from state to state, but generally yes. In Georgia, they put you on a closed course, make you accelerate up to 25mph, stop, reverse in a straight line, then either parallel park or back into a parking space before your road test. My cousin in New Jersey failed her first driver's exam because of a Catch 22 where the proctor wouldn't put his seatbelt on, and she wouldn't start driving until he did. It's all ridiculously easy.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 15:56
|
|
|
pipebomb posted:Ok, gently caress. First issue: I know, I went to meineke. I was in a hurry before a road trip and couldn't find any other place. It's hard to tell what the 'whomp whomp' sound is without hearing it, but if it didn't exist before they started loving around with it, I'd be inclined to blame the humps at the shop. That quote/invoice in your dropbox is breaking my heart, oh my god. PaintVagrant posted:I wouldnt mention any of that poo poo to VW and see what they end up quoting you. Ive had more than one shop experience where they bullshitted me about work that wasnt necessary, then took it for a second opinion elsewhere and the second shop didnt mention the "worn" parts at all.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 16:01
|
|
|
Hey guys, got a bit of a wobble when braking, probably uneven deposits on my rotors. Probably going to go ahead with a brake job (my first) and replace the rotors. Looking for recommendations for good brands of rotors/pads. I don't really want to spend the extra $$ on OEM. Thinking of Brembo, Centric....? 2000 4Runner Limited.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 16:21
|
|
|
pipebomb posted:Ok, gently caress. First issue: I know, I went to meineke. I was in a hurry before a road trip and couldn't find any other place. Places like Minekie or Midas or Firestone, strip mall franchise shops, usually dont have the experience or the forethought to order new special parts like brake wear sensors, since not all vehicles have them and theyre different for every manufacturer. Basically the service writer didnt order one for your car and when the tech broke it/it fell apart (it happens, theyre finnicky little things) they just said "gently caress it, get this car off the lift and keep the work flow going" rather than wait an hour or more for a new sensor to come. Since you brought the car in for a brake job, its unlikely that they road tested the car prior to doing work. They just saw the gravy and got after it. Its also probable that they only gave it the most bare minimum of road test after the job was done. I know if i'd done a brake job and there was a new warning light on the dash, I wouldnt just kick it out the door. Thats just terribly sloppy and them telling you "it'll buff out" is a good indicator that its not a quality operation. So when you come back saying youve got a whomp whomp noise in the front end, its doubtful they gave it a good road test, put it on the lift and inspected the parts. Lazy techs who've got some experience get in the habit of diagnosing things based on customer complaint not observed symptoms. "Whomp noise in the front? Needs wheel bearing hubs. NEXT JOB PLS" is how it goes. Gotta keep that work flow up. Since you have hub assemblies, you dont have packable bearings, thats just in the work order as part of the brake job because a lot of older vehicles require that service when changing rotors. You should have it inspected by VW but they might not road test a car on a free brake inspection - those are usually jack the car up and pull the wheels and do a visual inspection. If you are willing to pay for a little labor time then tell them to drive it and check for wheel bearing noise. I'd be shocked if your hubs were bad at 70k. It could be something as simple as a bent dust shield coming into contact with the rotor. Get your front tires re balanced to eliminate that potential issue.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 17:23
|
|
|
Guys, thank you very much for the advice and for clarifying my suspicions. I'm paying VW to do the $110 inspection, and the Meineke guy put in writing that if someone disagrees, he would pay the diag charge - I don't think he expected me to actually do so. Worst case, I pay the $110, get a rebalance and pay the $20-50 for the sensor repair/change then just harangue Meineke until I get something back or whatever. Again, much appreciated, and I will post with closure later this week. PS: Is there an 'angies list' for mechanics that you recommend?
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 23:34
|
|
|
pipebomb posted:Guys, thank you very much for the advice and for clarifying my suspicions. I'm paying VW to do the $110 inspection, and the Meineke guy put in writing that if someone disagrees, he would pay the diag charge - I don't think he expected me to actually do so. Here's on place to check: http://www.cartalk.com/mechanics-files
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2016 23:36
|
|
|
How do I get rid of brake fluid? Popular Mechanics says to pour it into cat litter and let it evaporate for a few days -- that seems impractical.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 15:37
|
|
|
Find your local transfer station.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 15:43
|
|
|
I've never been entirely sure what a transfer station is. Google maps indicates that there's one the next state over.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 15:57
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:I've never been entirely sure what a transfer station is. Google maps indicates that there's one the next state over. Google search: "(your county) hazardous materials disposal " or something similar.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 16:03
|
|
|
Yeah a hazardous waste dump is where you gotta take it. Or take it to a shop and ask to pay them to dispose of it for you
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 16:11
|
|
|
How long is reasonable to have an oil pan dropped, the vehicle on ramps and on a gravel driveway? P.sure my 99 silverado (lq4) has a spun cam bearing, but I'm holding hope it's just a clogged pickup and oil pump oring- parts coming from rock auto, but would like to dive in in the meantime.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 16:34
|
|
|
1UZ engine with unknown miles is briefly burning oil from a cold start. Is it rings or stem seals?
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 18:54
|
|
|
Likely valve stem seals.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 19:49
|
|
|
glyph posted:How long is reasonable to have an oil pan dropped, the vehicle on ramps and on a gravel driveway? P.sure my 99 silverado (lq4) has a spun cam bearing, but I'm holding hope it's just a clogged pickup and oil pump oring- parts coming from rock auto, but would like to dive in in the meantime. Can't really put a time figure on it, but let it sit like that long enough and the oil covering the engine internals will evaporate and they will start to rust. We're probably talking about months here so if you're just waiting on parts it should be OK until they arrive.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 21:08
|
|
|
glyph posted:How long is reasonable to have an oil pan dropped, the vehicle on ramps and on a gravel driveway? P.sure my 99 silverado (lq4) has a spun cam bearing, but I'm holding hope it's just a clogged pickup and oil pump oring- parts coming from rock auto, but would like to dive in in the meantime. Put that pan back on ASAP with a few bolts unless you want the wind to blow dust and grime into your bearings and just gently caress your poo poo up.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 21:13
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:Likely valve stem seals. I hope so. Still a pain in the rear end.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 21:59
|
|
|
I say that because oil will pool around them a bit after the engine is shut off, and if the seals are bad, it'll dribble into the combustion chamber. Gives a nice smoky cold start.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 22:07
|
|
|
This was my thought as well. And just last week I sold a sweet 1UZ with 60k on it. Oops.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 22:43
|
|
|
The argument I heard against engine braking modern cars several times is simply that brakes nowadays are reliable and cheap to replace, and the potential to do more costly wear to your transmission is there, especially if you don't rev match on the down shift. I am willing to cede it is utter bullshit and engine braking is fine, am not a car guy at all so that's why I asked.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 23:13
|
|
|
Pryor on Fire posted:The argument I heard against engine braking modern cars several times is simply that brakes nowadays are reliable and cheap to replace, and the potential to do more costly wear to your transmission is there, especially if you don't rev match on the down shift. Engine braking is fine but it wears your clutch out slightly faster. If you don't care about this then it won't hurt anything. If you have to fix your own cars like most people in here, you'd rather do brakes than a clutch on pretty much any vehicle. Modern or not has little bearing on it; japanese cars have had perfectly adequate brakes since the 80's.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 23:21
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Engine braking is fine but it wears your clutch out slightly faster. If you don't care about this then it won't hurt anything. If you have to fix your own cars like most people in here, you'd rather do brakes than a clutch on pretty much any vehicle. Modern or not has little bearing on it; japanese cars have had perfectly adequate brakes since the 80's.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2016 23:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 08:54 |
|
|
OK I'll rephrase: going down through the gears every time you slow down wears your clutch out faster than just using the brakes all the way and shifting down when the engine starts to hit idle.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2016 06:54
|
|