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slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit

Acid Reflux posted:

I work in an industry where we use a whole bunch of those $500 tools, and a lot of them aren't even built as well as this guy:

https://www.amazon.com/XH2-54mm-XH3-96mm-Terminals-SN-01BM-%EF%BC%880-08-0-5mm2%EF%BC%89/dp/B01N4L8QMW

Excellent for the common JST-XH and DuPont connectors you find on printers. You're probably also going to want Marsupial Ape's table mounted magnifying lamp for working with that kind of stuff, it's all just small and fiddly and can be really frustrating if you've never done it before. Or even if you do it for a living. *sigh*

We just mangle our way through anything we have with pliers like animals at work because we don't know enough about the proper knockoff tools and can't afford the known "correct" ones

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Marsupial Ape
Dec 15, 2020
the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar

withak posted:

Please stop posting accessories, I don't need to buy any more tools.

You know you can justify it.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Dr. Fishopolis posted:

Honestly, CoreXZ is a better (and much cheaper) system than dual lead screws and they're more likely to jump on that bandwagon. Doing it aftermarket DEFINITELY requires firmware fuckery though, there's no way around that.

I'm not sure it is. CoreXZ seems... strange.. to me. You definitely lose any sort of frame of refrence on power loss. It's also a lot harder to setup mechanically. I think it's a wash on costs, leadscrews and nuts are cheap, and core X-Z needs a whole lot more bearings. And unless you're 3d printing a lot of the parts, much of it's mechanics is... complex to manufacture.


Those things like to split blades. As far as I can tell, they're over-hardened and end up having a rather finite fatigue lifetime. I couldn't wrap my head around spending $75 on a set of nippers, so....in my infinite wisdom, I spent $80 on buying a half a dozen sets of nippers. I'm still not sold on single edge nippers. Having tried the godhands, and several other brands, I'm happier with dual edge cutters. Also, wouldn't want to use those delicate things for ripping through supports.

So back to tool porn. Isn't it fun when you hand someone a tool, and their eyes light up? Here's my go-tos for that.

The Stedi MS-100 nippers are the ones I hand to people to get the "what have I been missing" reaction, but it looks like they rebranded:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09HJL2SX...2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

And if you want nippers that will survive with 3d printing.. The IGAN-330's. I had the return spring break on one.... and they sent me a new one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RW8VTS...Y2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1


Acid Reflux posted:

I work in an industry where we use a whole bunch of those $500 tools, and a lot of them aren't even built as well as this guy:

https://www.amazon.com/XH2-54mm-XH3-96mm-Terminals-SN-01BM-%EF%BC%880-08-0-5mm2%EF%BC%89/dp/B01N4L8QMW

I second this.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

slurm posted:

Are there any tools or supplies people find indispensable for FDM printing? FDM really seems to be an area where people reinvent the wheel a lot because the barrier to entry is so low so maybe it's a good area for discussion. None of this is at all rocket science, but maybe there's more that other people have found good to keep around.

This is kind of my day to day stuff. The wipes and IPA and acetone and glove and scraper really only get used for fussing with PLA on a plain PEI sheet, which is so sensitive to fingerprints. The upgraded hex keys are an essential.



I saw someone mention a small machinist square for assembly which I also recommend.

An exacto for taking off strings, zits, and brims.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.


:aaa: I hate you. I’m going to have to order that.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
Holy poo poo guys, either the Engineer PA-09 or IWISS 2820 for crimps we use. Nothing more complicated than that.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Any good open source solutions for a 3d scanner? Either a handheld unit or a turntable solution feels like something I should be able to build with a couple webcams and a pi.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Nerobro posted:

I'm not sure it is. CoreXZ seems... strange.. to me. You definitely lose any sort of frame of refrence on power loss. It's also a lot harder to setup mechanically. I think it's a wash on costs, leadscrews and nuts are cheap, and core X-Z needs a whole lot more bearings. And unless you're 3d printing a lot of the parts, much of it's mechanics is... complex to manufacture.

Sure, I don't mean to sound like these things are coming out any time soon, it's still a hobby community thing. Any printer loses software frame of reference on sudden power loss, if you mean to ask how the gantry doesn't crash into the bed when the steppers are disabled the answer is a counterweight.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

w00tmonger posted:

Any good open source solutions for a 3d scanner? Either a handheld unit or a turntable solution feels like something I should be able to build with a couple webcams and a pi.

These things are all over thingiverse and clones thereof, though i don't have a specific one to suggest

Marsupial Ape
Dec 15, 2020
the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar

Doctor Zero posted:

:aaa: I hate you. I’m going to have to order that.

No. I refuse to be responsible that bullshit.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
OpenScan is what you want if you're going DIY or semi-DIY.

Haven't actually used it myself but have followed the project for years. Guy knows his stuff.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Prusa XL delayed until sometime in 2023

"at least six months"

oook

Guess I found room in this year's budget for a new gaming PC :pcgaming:

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Aug 9, 2022

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Well, I found a Klipper config for the specific printer I'm going to Frankenstein with it.

https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/printer-wanhao-duplicator-9-2018.cfg

Now to keep reading documentation for the installation process.

TerminalSaint
Apr 21, 2007


Where must we go...

we who wander this Wasteland in search of our better selves?

Doctor Zero posted:

An exacto for taking off strings, zits, and brims.

In addition to an x-acto, I find a deburring tool quite handy, especially for functional and interlocking parts.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

TerminalSaint posted:

In addition to an x-acto, I find a deburring tool quite handy, especially for functional and interlocking parts.

A torch type lighter, think.. cigar lighter.. is astounding for dealing with really stringy nasty stuff. It's also good for recovering plugged/gummed up nozzles.

------------------

Lets keep a running list here:

* Good allen keys in the sizes on your printer
* Parallel jaw pliars for holding on to your hot end without damaging it.
* Side cutters for snipping the ends of filament.
* X-Acto, razor blade, something similar to cut teflon tubing, trim brims, deburring
* Torch type lighter for de-hairing prints.
* Alcohol wipes, for cleaning beds.
* Deburring tool
* $30ish crimping tool, and crimps
* Add something?

Nerobro fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Aug 9, 2022

Aurium
Oct 10, 2010
I have a chemistry wash bottle full of isopropyl for cleaning the bed.

Opinionated
May 29, 2002



Aurium posted:

I have a chemistry wash bottle full of isopropyl for cleaning the bed.

Yea this too, I use a spray bottle of iso personally.

Agree with the others posted above and my additions of stuff I use regularly:
Some 10-20$ Digital calipers of course.

You can get a heat gun with a 2-year warranty for about 22 dollars or so at Harbor Freight in the US. Or lots of cheap options on amazon last I checked.

A small flashlight if you don't have good lighting to easily check for proper first layer squish.

Silica desiccant beads with printed silica bead containers and vacuum seal bags for hygroscopic filament. My favorite brand I've found by far: https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/nanovac-airlock They're out of stock a lot sadly. They are oversized compared to the others I've bought and that seems to help hold a seal better.

Some cheap magic erase sponges help get a super clean bed with a tiny soap. Also just really useful in general

Opinionated fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Aug 9, 2022

Marsupial Ape
Dec 15, 2020
the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar

Opinionated posted:

Some cheap magic erase sponges help get a super clean bed with a tiny soap. Also just really useful in general

I discovered that just the other day. Can recommend.

Also, get you some cheap rear end forceps at Harbor Freight. Useful getting a nozzle started into a hot heating block and thread it gently. Oh, poo poo...get a magnet on a stick. You're gonna have to hunt a unique screw, sooner or later.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Speaking of tools, does anyone have a good recommendation for a small electric screwdriver that actually works well?

I bought this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H27G9NF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

but it has next to no torque on it for removing screws.

RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon

slurm posted:

Are there any tools or supplies people find indispensable for FDM printing?

I often saw the metal brush people have and are there some special nozzles that need them? I use the tweezers to scrape filament off the nozzle while it's hot.

Rexxed posted:

The Ender 3 has a couple of support posts on its hot end to keep it from twisting.
I read somewhere that you are supposed to only use them for putting the hot end together and afterwards they should be removed as they unnecessarily transfer heat to the heat break. Kinda makes sense and may be worth remembering if you're dealing with heat creep.

Acid Reflux posted:

I work in an industry where we use a whole bunch of those $500 tools, and a lot of them aren't even built as well as this guy:

https://www.amazon.com/XH2-54mm-XH3-96mm-Terminals-SN-01BM-%EF%BC%880-08-0-5mm2%EF%BC%89/dp/B01N4L8QMW

Excellent for the common JST-XH and DuPont connectors you find on printers. You're probably also going to want Marsupial Ape's table mounted magnifying lamp for working with that kind of stuff, it's all just small and fiddly and can be really frustrating if you've never done it before. Or even if you do it for a living. *sigh*
I use these, they cost nothing and can do everything one would need for their 3D printer.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
No way you can get a proper crimp with Molex MicroFit3 or JST-PH with those

RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon

insta posted:

No way you can get a proper crimp with Molex MicroFit3 or JST-PH with those

Oh, right. I didn't need to crimp one of those yet.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

mewse posted:

drat that's a good idea. What goes wrong if I use tap water? I usually wouldn't ask but I just destroyed a set of bearings with tap water

Its just going to leave Gunk and residues in the tank from all the stuff thats in the tap water (minerals and the like).

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

mattfl posted:

Speaking of tools, does anyone have a good recommendation for a small electric screwdriver that actually works well?

I bought this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H27G9NF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

but it has next to no torque on it for removing screws.

I have that and a different brand. It’s good, but little drivers like that are all going to lack the torque to start the removal. I suppose you could put the bit in an electric drill or bigger electric screwdriver, but that sounds like a recipe for flinging the vat across the room. It still saves a lot of time to loosen it a little by hand first and then do the rest with the micro screwdriver.

Marsupial Ape
Dec 15, 2020
the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar
I am happy because I recieved my new thermosistor today and that fixed my problem. Printer is now operational. I am very mad because I can’t get the chuck screw that holds the heat rod in place to budge, hot or cold. I’m afraid I may have already wallowed out the head. It’s always something.

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.
Adventures in ABS printing, day 2.

My part is warping and pulling off the print bed at pretty much the exact same point every time, even though I have it in a chamber at 35-40 C. Is this just a matter of getting better bed adhesion? I'm using a PEI sheet on a glass bed, but the PEI might have worn out. I was thinking about trying an abs slurry next.



E: the one on the furthest right is entertaining because the nozzle kicked the whole bottom piece off the bed and then preceded to print the top half of the benchy on top of spaghetti with pretty decent quality.

Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Aug 9, 2022

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

H110Hawk posted:

I'm looking forward to it!

So here is what I have so far:



Unfortunately, the original size for my test chill pill is difficult to deburr the brim off of, so I'm making it larger to see if I can get away from a brim altogether, like so (except with the text on the build plate so no supports are required):



Alternatively, I'm going to give this Chill Pill a try too:



What do you think? Any preference on the now suppository-size tablets?

Edit, And I'm swapping to a spool of red PLA. I didn't forget the second color requirement.

Edit 2:

I'm going ahead with the round suppositories since it'll take about 6 hours to print 10 at a whack and the first layer looks good enough.

We'll see how they look when I get home from work tomorrow!

Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Aug 10, 2022

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

biracial bear for uncut posted:

So here is what I have so far:


Unfortunately, the original size for my test chill pill is difficult to deburr the brim off of, so I'm making it larger to see if I can get away from a brim altogether, like so (except with the text on the build plate so no supports are required):



I think you could probably print this vertically without supports

The overhang is small enough you probably don't need supports. Option B is to emboss the CHILL when printing vertically

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Well, poo poo.




I've been running 24+ hour prints for several days, meticulously cleaning the bed in between jobs for Maximum Adhesion™, and generally having a good time with things.

Came home from work today and reset for a new print, turned my back on it for a couple of hours, and this is what I ended up with. :sigh:

The good news is that I already got a lot of it off without too much trouble. The bad news is that while I managed to free the heater wires, the thermistor wires are completely entombed, and I don't know if I have cutting tools of the right shape and size to surgically remove a blob that big without damaging anything. Also not sure if I have the energy to deal with it any further tonight. I do feel like I've finally joined a club though, this is the first time I've ever had this happen over the course of however-many-years and an awful lot of printers. I'm honestly not even mad.

Marsupial Ape
Dec 15, 2020
the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar
You should add an eyelet to one end so you can tie a length of string to it. Remember: “Without a base, without a trace”.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Acid Reflux posted:

Well, poo poo.




I got lucky as hell the one time I didn't torque down the nozzle on mine. The print kept failing near the end of the first layer and getting dragged around. After a few times of a big blob by the nozzle I took off the sock to witness the beautify of a cube of black PLA filament that took the silicon socks shape.

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


Hadlock posted:

I think you could probably print this vertically without supports

The overhang is small enough you probably don't need supports. Option B is to emboss the CHILL when printing vertically

The text will be more legible if printed vertically, but you absolutely cannot print this without supports. It will fall over immediately

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

BMan posted:

The text will be more legible if printed vertically, but you absolutely cannot print this without supports. It will fall over immediately

I think they meant with the text vertically as shown instead of on the plate, and maybe a brim at the base?

Worth a shot if this fails.

Opinionated
May 29, 2002



biracial bear for uncut posted:


What do you think? Any preference on the now suppository-size tablets?

If the challenge includes you testing them out I'd vote the bigger the better!

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Opinionated posted:

If the challenge includes you testing them out I'd vote the bigger the better!

I thought that was going to be the one that issued the challenge, for impartial quality testing purposes!

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


biracial bear for uncut posted:

I think they meant with the text vertically as shown instead of on the plate, and maybe a brim at the base?

Worth a shot if this fails.

I guess that makes more sense, still it's too little bed contact for my liking.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
This would work fine and require minimal brim cleanup

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Oh, shaped vaguely like a benadryl tablet, too.

Edit: I don't have any bright pink filament, though.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

You could do a vertical Chill half that's a cylinder with a rounded end and a vertical Pill half that's the same and glue them together. In different colors it'd even look a bit like a capsule.

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withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
OP is after a Chill Pill though, not a Chill Capsule.

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