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the posted:The light went out in my shed, where do I start diagnosing? I'm quite sure it isn't the bulbs, as they were working perfectly before a few rainstorms. Plus, they're flourescents and those usually go out slowly (and not both at once). Is it possible there's a short somewhere? The shed has it's own circuit box, and the light connects via standard plug. Ballast might be dead
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May 24, 2013 04:51
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dwoloz posted:Ballast might be dead Also, plug something else into that outlet and see if it's dead.
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May 24, 2013 16:23
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Is there a landscaping thread? I have a bunch of questions about fixing errosion due to rain and poor drainage on a hillside down to a lake. Will probably involve fixing/building retaining walls, drainage tile, groundcover plants for shaded hillside, etc.
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May 25, 2013 19:52
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My house has a water softener that isn't hooked up. I went and looked at it tonight and at first thought it was just unplugged, but found later that the other end of the hose (which appears to be a supply line) has been disconnected. The hose ends in a male threaded fitting. Where would be the likely place for it to have been connected? The system appears to be OK, I plugged it in and it turned on and responded to button presses etc. not sure why it was disconnected, the people I bought the house from said they didn't even know there was a softener here.
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May 26, 2013 00:20
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Got the washer lid switch from Amazon and installs it. Washer works like a dream. 
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May 26, 2013 20:11
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Rubiks Pubes posted:My house has a water softener that isn't hooked up. I went and looked at it tonight and at first thought it was just unplugged, but found later that the other end of the hose (which appears to be a supply line) has been disconnected. The hose ends in a male threaded fitting. Where would be the likely place for it to have been connected?
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May 27, 2013 01:57
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GWBBQ posted:The supply line should connect to a water supply pipe. You need to replace the salt as routine maintenance, maybe it was bypassed to avoid having to do that. Maybe so. There is actually still salt in the bin. I will have to find the pipe it connects to. I just didn't feel like delving that much further under the house. I'm sure it is somewhere close to where I found the hose laying.
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May 27, 2013 01:59
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Wandering Orange posted:Is there a landscaping thread? I have a bunch of questions about fixing errosion due to rain and poor drainage on a hillside down to a lake. Will probably involve fixing/building retaining walls, drainage tile, groundcover plants for shaded hillside, etc. This thread would work for that. Site pictures or description, climate zone, budget, and experience level would help. Generally hillside erosion problems would be solved with first taking care of roof runoff with downspout pipes, then regrading and directing drainage paths into a common channel populated with landscape fabric and large stones running downhill. If the drainage cannot be easily directed into a drainage swale, then groundcover plants could be used to slow the water on the hill. Possible options to colonize a shady hillside would be juniperus, hedera, cotoneaster, pachysandra, vinca minor, forsythia, hypericum, sarcococca, jasminum.
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May 27, 2013 03:35
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I picked up a Skil benchtop drill press for a song the other day, looks like it was barely used before it went into storage for a few years. Seems to run fine, but it will need some work to remove some rust. I thought I remembered a thread on SA (in this forum, I thought) about tool restoration and such, including rust removal, but I'm not finding it. Am I remembering correctly and just failing at Archives, or am I hallucinating?
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May 27, 2013 15:39
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Rocket Man posted:I picked up a Skil benchtop drill press for a song the other day, looks like it was barely used before it went into storage for a few years. Seems to run fine, but it will need some work to remove some rust. I thought I remembered a thread on SA (in this forum, I thought) about tool restoration and such, including rust removal, but I'm not finding it. Am I remembering correctly and just failing at Archives, or am I hallucinating?
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May 27, 2013 16:57
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Rocket Man posted:I picked up a Skil benchtop drill press for a song the other day, looks like it was barely used before it went into storage for a few years. Seems to run fine, but it will need some work to remove some rust. I thought I remembered a thread on SA (in this forum, I thought) about tool restoration and such, including rust removal, but I'm not finding it. Am I remembering correctly and just failing at Archives, or am I hallucinating? Let's Restore stuff! (mostly tools)
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May 27, 2013 18:43
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Wandering Orange posted:Is there a landscaping thread? I have a bunch of questions about fixing errosion due to rain and poor drainage on a hillside down to a lake. Will probably involve fixing/building retaining walls, drainage tile, groundcover plants for shaded hillside, etc. We have threads for plants, but not for the other stuff you asked for. How steep a slope do you have? Drainage tile is for draining flat land. It sounds like it has trees on it. Their roots should help with preventing erosion a bit.
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May 27, 2013 21:08
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Rocket Man posted:I picked up a Skil benchtop drill press for a song the other day, looks like it was barely used before it went into storage for a few years. Seems to run fine, but it will need some work to remove some rust. I thought I remembered a thread on SA (in this forum, I thought) about tool restoration and such, including rust removal, but I'm not finding it. Am I remembering correctly and just failing at Archives, or am I hallucinating? Easy way is soak in Evaporust, quickist way is steel wool or green pad and WD40 or similiar. There are several homemade solutions also.
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May 28, 2013 00:08
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Okay, my house is one of those pyramid style roofs with about a 8' ridge at the top. The problem is the roof isn't vented at all. Now, I have an upstairs area that's pretty much surronded by attic, and I want to put my office there, but it gets hot as gently caress, namely because there's no ventilation. I'm planning on getting the roof done in metal in the next year or two (and remove the 3-4 current layers including the cedar shakes, ugh). In the mean time, I have one "window" to the outside that is actually attic. Would it be beneficial to somehow slide a pipe along the trusses about 3-4' in the upper roof part, hook it to a vent fan to pull some of the heat out of the attic?
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May 28, 2013 02:34
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Gothmog1065 posted:Okay, my house is one of those pyramid style roofs with about a 8' ridge at the top. The problem is the roof isn't vented at all. Now, I have an upstairs area that's pretty much surronded by attic, and I want to put my office there, but it gets hot as gently caress, namely because there's no ventilation. I'm planning on getting the roof done in metal in the next year or two (and remove the 3-4 current layers including the cedar shakes, ugh). I'm not sure I get what you're thinking. Just to be clear - You have an upstairs area that was probably originally all attic or loft space and someone decided to try and finish it off, but didn't take ventilation into account. So you have this second floor space, and they went and put a window in that leads directly into the unfinished attic space. Now you'd like to take care of the ventilation issue by laying some pvc along the trusses (or do you mean the collars?) and somehow rig up a vent fan? Yeah, I just don't understand what you're going for here. Either way, even if you're planning on replacing the roof soon the best thing to do is to just do it right. Your stlye of roof means there is no gable end, so you should have soffits. So, you need to install install a ridge vent. If that's too much work for you, just install standard vents on either side of the ridge line. That will end up being fairly cheap and can be done in just a couple hours. Attic ventilation is pretty simple, but it's pretty easy to screw it up because there's tendency to overdo it. You just need air movement, and since attics get so warm in the summer you can let the air do the work. As long as your soffits aren't blocked up and you have adequately sized, spaced, and positioned vents, the hot air will rise up and out and pull the cooler air up into the attic without running all kinds of pipe or hooking up fans and adding to the electric bill. One other thing I would suggest though is to look into your insulation while you're in there. From what I see in your post, it sounds like this second floor area is finished space, but not a conditioned space. I'd be willing to bet there is little to no insulation between the office area and the attic. Even if their is, improper ventilation like this will lead to condensation and mold. So, check it out while you're up there and if there isn't enough insulation, add some, because that will help reduce your heating/cooling bill and help fix your heat problem in that area as well.
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May 28, 2013 14:35
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A few things that might clear this up (I really need to not post when tired). I have a "hip roof", similar to a pyramid, but the sides come together and form a ridge instead of a point. The pitch is 12/12 or steeper and it's really not viable for me to get up there safely without more equipment. I've already put insulation around the walls of the finished space (need to flip some of it, not a huge deal), but there's no air movement in the attic part because there's no exit for the heat at the top. The conditioned part is basically just the ceiling where the collars are, to where those meet the actual rafters down to the floor area. Typical ".5" second story. Above is inaccessible, no air flow above whatsoever, no insulation that I know of (this will change when I get the roof done, both insulation and ventilation). The sides are insulated, did that myself. What my idea was, was to see about sliding a pipe into the upper attic area into the upper attic, attaching to a vent fan to force some sort of airflow (Suction, venting to the outside) until I can get the ridge properly ventilated. This would just replace a window that is in the unfinished part of the attic area. Once the attic is ventilated, the fan will just be removed and screened in to just look pretty or something. This is basically so that this summer I and my equipment aren't boiling alive when it hits 100 outside and both my window units aren't going to absolutely destroy my electric bill.
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May 28, 2013 17:05
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I need to order replacement screens for some windows (I never got them with my house). My local Home Depot will order me replacement screens (I have Andersen windows), but they require measurements of the windows. How do I measure the windows? Do I measure inside, or so I measure outside?
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May 28, 2013 17:08
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BoyBlunder posted:I need to order replacement screens for some windows (I never got them with my house). My local Home Depot will order me replacement screens (I have Andersen windows), but they require measurements of the windows. Call Home Depot and ask them where to measure. Some fitted window companies want the exterior dimensions, some want nominal dimensions, and some want glazed dimensions. You can also just get a roll of screen, some screen track, corners, bead, and a couple cheap tools and make all the screens yourself in an afternoon.
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May 28, 2013 23:52
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BoyBlunder posted:I need to order replacement screens for some windows (I never got them with my house). My local Home Depot will order me replacement screens (I have Andersen windows), but they require measurements of the windows. There is usually a worksheet you fill out. Sometimes you can find a label with model and dimensions (usually on top of the track where upper window of a double hung)
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May 29, 2013 00:16
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As a new-homeowner I've been reading this forum and it's been horrifying me, especially the code thread. So I've been seeing about one carpenter ant a night, should I be worried? Exterminator websites make it sound like I'm lucky the house hasn't collapsed around me, while the DIY ones are pretty nonchalant about it. After some research I plan on buying some Termidor and spraying my house and deck. We already put out a few of the supermarket ant traps. Is this a solid plan, or am I over or under reacting?
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May 29, 2013 00:50
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Hackan Slash posted:As a new-homeowner I've been reading this forum and it's been horrifying me, especially the code thread. Where do you live, what type of construction, asked your neighbors?
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May 29, 2013 01:05
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Where do you live, what type of construction, asked your neighbors? Northern NJ, 1978 Frame construction (I think), and no. I still have to confront the neighbours about dumping leaves and clippings on my property... The wood destroying insect report I got during the home inspections found no evidence of anything.
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May 29, 2013 01:36
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Hackan Slash posted:As a new-homeowner I've been reading this forum and it's been horrifying me, especially the code thread. Do you have any water damage? And you're certain that it was a carpenter ant? There are a metric fuckton of ant species.
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May 29, 2013 02:06
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kid sinister posted:Do you have any water damage? And you're certain that it was a carpenter ant? There are a metric fuckton of ant species. There is a very minor amount in one corner of the basement. I've only found the ants on the other side of the house and up a level. I think it's carpenter ants because they're pretty big. All the online resources I've checked have said that anything that big is a carpenter ant. They're like a third of an inch long to a half inch.
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May 29, 2013 02:25
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Gothmog1065 posted:A few things that might clear this up (I really need to not post when tired). It's still a bit unclear, but I think I have a better idea of what you're going for. What you're basically proposing is creating negative pressure within the unfinished attic space. Sort of similar to what abatement companies use when cleaning up a job site. What you're thinking of could technically work, but would definitely not be preferable to just putting in the proper vents. First off, you said you have a hip roof, and a window in the unfinished attic. So, the window is going to be lower than the highest portion of the roof. That means the air will be cooler down there, and it would make a more effecting inlet than exhaust point. Second, it's not enough to just get the hot air out. You also need to think about where your fresh air is going to come from. If there's just one window, you're planning on blocking up your only source of fresh air by venting out of it. Third, there's the added expense of running this thing. Fourth, and most importantly, I doubt it'll make a difference. You're going to need a pretty large fan running 24/7 if it's going to make a dent in summer. I mean, to make any appreciable difference, the fan essentially needs to be moving a volume of air equal to that of your entire attic at a constant rate. Unless you're planning on hooking up several of them, or your house is tiny, this could be a problem. What you're really looking for (if this is the route you're going) is another product entirely. What you'll be looking for is a whole house fan to push cooler air form the house into the attic or an air exchanger to suck in air from outside and suck out air from the attic. Most powered roof vents are only meant to supplement existing or insufficient venting. I just have my doubts that it'll keep up. It's not enough to just get the hot air out, need to get cool air in, and you need to do it without shorting the cycle. The only problems with the products I just mentioned is cost. All things considered, if you don't feel comfortable on your roof or don't have the rig to do it, it might be cheaper to hire someone to spend 2 hours on your roof installing some vents.
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May 29, 2013 19:15
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Yeah, i was afraid of that. You pretty much got the picture there. The only issue with the vents and having someone doing it, it's not just a simple cut through shingles, I don't know what the gently caress they have on my roof. It's a minimum of 3 layers (Cedar shakes, shingle, shingle), and I'm hoping someone was smart enough to at least try to put some sort of plywood above the shakes, but I'm kind of afraid they didn't. Might try to push up getting a loan to get the stupid roof done.
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May 29, 2013 20:31
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Hackan Slash posted:The wood destroying insect report I got during the home inspections found no evidence of anything. Not to alarm you unduly, but I wouldn't put much stock in this or anything from any pre-sale home inspection.
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May 29, 2013 21:24
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My propane grill is broken. The left-most burner control is leaking propane. I believe this is causing the regulator to kick-in and reduce the gas to uncookable levels. There's a long metal tube that distributes the propane to the 4 burners. My first thought was to seal the left part of the tube with something, but I don't want any fumes or chemicals leeching into the food. My friend suggested we saw off part of the tube (see dashed line of sketch) and then weld the end shut. Is this a bad idea? I usually only use 2 burners anyways, so losing 1 burner is no big deal. The problem is that none of them work now because of the gas leak.
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May 29, 2013 22:06
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GD_American posted:A few ways to reduce the chance are to set an asphalt roofing shingle in the hole for the bottom surface of the 4x4 to set on, or dig the hole deeper than you would, then put in some gravel to bring it back up to depth, then some landscaping fabric, then an asphalt shingle. Thanks for the advice. I did as you advised and used a shingle and some primer on the ends, and sloped the concrete. Working on the decking now, and then I get to start the adventure of making an 8 sided roof.
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May 29, 2013 22:54
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Corn Nuts posted:My propane grill is broken. If I have to guess(I do), I'd say it's probably an o-ring that rotted away, I'd look to replace/repair the knob before doing anything as drastic as your friend suggested. Honestly, that solution sounds like cutting off a hand because of a broken finger.
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May 30, 2013 00:49
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GD_American posted:Not to alarm you unduly, but I wouldn't put much stock in this or anything from any pre-sale home inspection. Definitely this. I bought a cheap house and the pest report came back with only minor notes. Bought it. Tore down a bunch of walls in the basement and found significant termite damage (fortunately no active infestation though). Still was a good deal on the house but the inspectors don't have x-ray vision
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May 30, 2013 17:22
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I have a stock standard interior bathroom door that wont stay open. Now normally this may not be an issue but its a small guest bathroom so if you want to just wash your hands quickly you either have to go all the way in and close the door or hold the door open with your foot. The door closes because the frame isn't perfectly level but I'd rather not have to tear down all the moulding and reset the frame for being out an 1/8". I am thinking either installing a door bottom insulation strip to brush across the floor or perhaps something to add a little friction into one of the hinges (a felt pad or lock washer? I dunno?) Any thoughts?
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May 30, 2013 19:05
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shipwrek posted:I have a stock standard interior bathroom door that wont stay open. Now normally this may not be an issue but its a small guest bathroom so if you want to just wash your hands quickly you either have to go all the way in and close the door or hold the door open with your foot. The door closes because the frame isn't perfectly level but I'd rather not have to tear down all the moulding and reset the frame for being out an 1/8". I am thinking either installing a door bottom insulation strip to brush across the floor or perhaps something to add a little friction into one of the hinges (a felt pad or lock washer? I dunno?) Any thoughts? I have a reverse pinch (is that even a term) door stopper. When I open the door, towards the wall, the door stop goes into the pinch thingy attached to the door and keeps it open.
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May 30, 2013 21:18
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I am in Arizona and not interested in buying new windows, but I have been looking at resealing my existing ones. I am fine with caulking around the frames but it is stuff like this that gets me confused- Is there a standard replacement stripping that looks like this? It looks like I could peel this entire brittle plastic rectangle out and replace it. Or am I supposed to fill the cracked hole with caulk?
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May 30, 2013 21:43
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shipwrek posted:I have a stock standard interior bathroom door that wont stay open. Now normally this may not be an issue but its a small guest bathroom so if you want to just wash your hands quickly you either have to go all the way in and close the door or hold the door open with your foot. The door closes because the frame isn't perfectly level but I'd rather not have to tear down all the moulding and reset the frame for being out an 1/8". I am thinking either installing a door bottom insulation strip to brush across the floor or perhaps something to add a little friction into one of the hinges (a felt pad or lock washer? I dunno?) Any thoughts? There's a door holder with a spring cushion & a rare-earth magnet, think I picked it up at Lowe's. It holds mine open even with towels on the wall rack and the door rack sandwiched between the door & the wall.
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May 31, 2013 02:01
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I bought my house almost a year ago, and it was empty for at least 6 months. The attached garage smells like a kennel because previous owners used it as such. I don't believe they ever cleaned up after the dogs. I used a whole gallon of concentrated bleach in stages over a two week period, and several bottles of febreeze. When ever the weather is nice I leave the doors wide open. The smell of wet dog remains constant. Any suggestions?
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May 31, 2013 04:09
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Assuming concrete floors and drywall on the walls, you need a biological agent on the floor, such as bio washing powder dissolved in a spray bottle of water, spray the floor and leave to work for a couple of days. Walls, scrub and possibly paint over.
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May 31, 2013 06:00
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Nerdfest X posted:I bought my house almost a year ago, and it was empty for at least 6 months. The attached garage smells like a kennel because previous owners used it as such. I don't believe they ever cleaned up after the dogs. I used a whole gallon of concentrated bleach in stages over a two week period, and several bottles of febreeze. When ever the weather is nice I leave the doors wide open. The smell of wet dog remains constant. Any suggestions? Seconding the need for an enzymatic cleaner (ex natures miracle.) Quite possibly the walls/ceiling are also stinky poo poo. You might need to paint over the walls to seal it in. You are basically facing a problem similar to smoke, a difficult problem. Depending on the source of the smell, sunlight may help also. Keeping the space open to airflow will have some benefit but I think your stench is beyond "airing it out." You might try calling around to companies that handle smoke abatement (I think that is the term) and get a quote for your garage. Stanley Steemer, etc. Comedy option: Make curry every night in your garage for a month. I guarantee peepee poopoo smell will be gone.
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May 31, 2013 13:37
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I was looking for a chemical solution and missed the most obvious one: painting it over. Doing this on the weekend, thanks.
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May 31, 2013 19:21
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Hackan Slash posted:As a new-homeowner I've been reading this forum and it's been horrifying me, especially the code thread. Maxforce Ant Bait Gel will gently caress up carpenter ants like nothing else. I had three colonies in my house and it wiped out all of them and none have returned in 3 years. I had a window in my shower wall and tore up the wall to remove it. When I got in there, I found a huge colony of carpenter ants living in the wall. I put down Maxforce along the studs then sealed the wall back up. A few days later there was a pile of dead ants outside the wall about an inch deep, three inches wide, and 24 inches long. It was an ant holocaust. That poo poo works. According to the labels, it is pretty toxic stuff, so you don't want to use it anywhere where it might come in contact with food or get licked by your kid or a pet or something.
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