|
The only option for center on my dad's setup was 7' off the ground and we pulled it because it was just too weird. Fine with two big klipsch floostanders as the fronts, produces a surprisingly good phantom center.
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 19:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 21:40 |
|
|
I had 2 Klipsch towers but even with the crappy Pioneer center that came with the rest of the system, dialog was way too low. Its all fine now with the center to match the towers.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 17:17
|
|
|
^ crappy phantom centre mixing on that receiver.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 17:32
|
|
|
codo27 posted:I had 2 Klipsch towers but even with the crappy Pioneer center that came with the rest of the system, dialog was way too low. Its all fine now with the center to match the towers. Maybe the Pioneer was too crappy and it would have been better if left out entirely
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 17:38
|
|
|
If they actually mainly put dialog through the center I could see that but in my experience they mix most of the audio in a surround track there and use even the front LR as accessory speakers which is dumb because it does nothing for the dynamic range problem that drives people nuts.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 19:01
|
|
|
I was peeking at ac4l today and they have black KEF Q100s for $199 each which is cool because you could get 3 of them for LCR instead of buying KEF's own gigantic center channel.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 22:19
|
|
|
Is there any electrical reason speaker wires are run together (red and black attached to each other)? Or would it be fine for me to split them apart and run them individually? I have my reasons.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2017 21:47
|
|
|
No reason.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2017 21:57
|
|
|
That might be one of the strangest questions I've ever read.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2017 23:17
|
|
|
I've bought speaker wire (braided) where the red and black wires weren't attached together.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2017 01:05
|
|
|
wolfbiker posted:I've bought speaker wire (braided) where the red and black wires weren't attached together. I've seen that too. My bemusement was at the very notion that it could possibly matter.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2017 01:10
|
|
|
Hipster_Doofus posted:I've seen that too. My bemusement was at the very notion that it could possibly matter. It's a fair enough question since it does matter with other kinds of wiring that use differential signaling, have a clock signal, or depend on twisted pairs. That said I'm still pretty curious what situation requires that the wires be run separately.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2017 19:48
|
|
|
wolrah posted:That said I'm still pretty curious what situation requires that the wires be run separately. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2017 22:14
|
|
|
Decoration.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 06:14
|
|
|
wolrah posted:That said I'm still pretty curious what situation requires that the wires be run separately. Decoration.  I'd like to separate the pairs into 4 individual wires to run them along the other wall to the back wall where they'll split off and go to each rear speaker separately. And yes I asked because I know some electronic applications require twisted pair and other similar setups and I'm pretty audio dumb.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 06:24
|
|
|
MonkeyFit posted:Decoration. Love it
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 06:41
|
|
|
I'm sorry but if you're gonna go with the cyberpunk aesthetic, you gotta commit. Radioactive green walls and random chunks of exposed metal or bust.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 13:28
|
|
|
MonkeyFit posted:Decoration. Ok, yea that'll work fine (and I agree that looks pretty cool when done well). Because sound is so slow the physical distance between the listener and the speakers is the only real factor, unless we take it to absurd levels. Every foot the speaker is away from the listener is roughly one millisecond of delay, where that'd be over 140 miles of wire.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2017 16:10
|
|
|
Not a question, just something for people to laugh at me over. Coming from Europe where funny laws means banana plugs aren’t so common, I thought now I’m in the states and building stuff from scratch rather than buying a long reel of cable I’ll just get some precut speaker with banana plugs at the ends. I also picked up some cheap speakers I can move outside when the budget allows me to replace them with real hifi speakers. Long story short, I now have a set of speakers with banana plugs jammed into the binding posts. It works I guess.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2017 02:59
|
|
|
I don’t understand the joke. Why aren’t banana jacks common in europe? They’re used on test equipment all over. Why is plugging banana plugs into a binding post weird? That’s one of the 5 ways that make them “5-way posts.” edit: oh, you mean you shoved binding posts into spring terminals? You can get pin connectors for that. Same advantage for controlling stray wire strands. Smaller shaft. And oh, you only get the shrouded kind over there? Lame. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Nov 29, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2017 03:16
|
|
|
I'm giggling furiously at the notion of a banana plug black market.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2017 03:45
|
|
|
Yeah it turns out banana plugs are the exact same size as European plug sockets, and I think there was fear someone would plug a speaker in directly and fry themselves. The funny thing is, it’s EU ruling and I lived in the UK where our power sockets were completely different but it still effected us. Amps will be sold with plastic tabs inside the terminals that are ‘mysteriously’ easy to break off. Its no really a big issue, but the plugs aren’t so common due to it and despite owning a ton of cable, I’ve never had any. And yeah, I have them rammed in the spring terminals. Typically one was really tight and I had to bend the metal frame a bit. They were cheap so it’s no big deal, I should’ve figured it out though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2017 04:21
|
|
|
KillHour posted:I'm sorry but if you're gonna go with the cyberpunk aesthetic, you gotta commit. Radioactive green walls and random chunks of exposed metal or bust. When I own my own home and am not just renting an apartment, I will. Just for you. I'll also add tablets showing door controls that don't work and just say Access Denied when you try to do anything on them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2017 09:26
|
|
|
...but when you buy decent audio kit it all has sockets for banana plugs and they assume you're making up cable anyway so it's all sold separately. You don't have to have them but it's not like they're not available anywhere, every audio shop I've been in has had handfuls of them behind the counter. Low end stuff tends to have the spring clips because they're cheaper to throw onto kit.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2017 12:12
|
|
|
I know this, as said - I should’ve realized when I bought them they didn’t have the right terminals. Just a brain fart when I was sleepy and buying stuff online. It works okay at the moment (as good as $40 speakers I paid $25 for should sound, anyway) but it made me laugh.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2017 15:53
|
|
|
MonkeyFit posted:When I own my own home and am not just renting an apartment, I will. Just for you. I'll also add tablets showing door controls that don't work and just say Access Denied when you try to do anything on them. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2017 06:27
|
|
|
I'm looking for a decent pc speaker system. Just your bog standard two desk speakers and a subwoofer below. I know there are a lot out there and the price ranges are really all over the place. Is there a defacto standard for good but not outrageous?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2017 20:22
|
|
|
I bought the JBL SR305 powered monitor speakers when they were on sale. I bought a JBL Nano Patch Starter Pack to go with them. I've got the XLR cables connecting the Nano Patch to the speakers, but I realized I need a cable to connect the Nano Patch to my computer. I assumed it would just be a standard 3.5 male/male connector, but I want to make sure, since this is a different than any other setup I've used. Here are the audio inputs for my computer:  Will this work?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 17:01
|
|
|
Yes, you need a cable with a 3.5mm stereo jack at each end, to plug it into the green port in your picture. For the speakers, you need to go from the 6.3mm jack plugs on the Nano Patch to either 6.3 mm jack or female XLR on the speakers.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 17:31
|
|
|
Thanks - I scrounged up a 3.5 cable and it sounds great! Quite an upgrade from my previous Lepai amp/Dayton B652 combo 
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 19:02
|
|
|
Knifegrab posted:I'm looking for a decent pc speaker system. Just your bog standard two desk speakers and a subwoofer below. I know there are a lot out there and the price ranges are really all over the place. Is there a defacto standard for good but not outrageous? Define outrageous. Like the Vanatoo Transparent Zeroes are stupidly good for their size and will work with any regular subwoofer, but $360/pair is outrageous to some people, but just getting started to others.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 02:57
|
|
|
KozmoNaut, we were talking about DSP a while back and I thought you might be interested in the new way I'm doing it. My setup is a pc (i7-2600, 4gb ram, win 10), Asus Xonar U7, a couple of amps running 2.1. I'm using VB hifi cable ASIO bridge software for routing. It presents itself as a 2 channel device to windows, so everything *just works*, but also allows you to route your sound card's full compliment of channels in and out, which is important for the next bit. I'm using Equalizer APO for the DSP part. It has all the normal filters you'd expect (and .vst), as well as convolution. With a simple mono sum for the sub and crossover filters, the cpu usage is less than a couple of percent, and the total delay from line in to line out is less than 10ms. Then I'm using tuneblade to distribute whatever's playing to my raspberry pi and airport express for whole house, time synced audio.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 05:10
|
|
|
Very nice! I was considering something like that too, but it requires the PC to be on (duh), and since I'm running both Linux and Windows, I would have to find similar solutions for both. Still, it is pretty neat.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 07:50
|
|
|
Knifegrab posted:I'm looking for a decent pc speaker system. Just your bog standard two desk speakers and a subwoofer below. I know there are a lot out there and the price ranges are really all over the place. Is there a defacto standard for good but not outrageous? I got these a few months back based on The Wirecutter's recommendation. They were about $20 cheaper then though so you might want to keep an eye out. They are a massive step up from the logitech z313s I was using before and I don't have any complaints so far, except for the ugly rear end green accents, but I just hide them behind my desk clutter.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 08:04
|
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:Very nice! I was considering something like that too, but it requires the PC to be on (duh), and since I'm running both Linux and Windows, I would have to find similar solutions for both. Use a small computer (Raspberry Pi or NUC) and just stick that on full-time DSP duties? Or get a miniDSP, I guess.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 08:42
|
|
|
Hey, hopefully this is the right place to ask this. My desktop at home has remarkably crappy audio output, even worse than what you'd expect from an old Dell workstation. I've been using an old audio interface to get around this, but it has some issues with sleep mode and Windows 10 drivers, so I'm looking to replace it. What would be a good choice for a cheapo sound card or USB audio adapter? I don't particularly need a bunch of inputs, and a physical volume control on an external adapter would be nice but isn't necessary. I'll be hooking it straight up to my headphones (V-Moda XS) if that matters.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 10:18
|
|
|
KillHour posted:Use a small computer (Raspberry Pi or NUC) and just stick that on full-time DSP duties? Or get a miniDSP, I guess. I'm using a dbx Driverack PX right now, it does enough EQ to fit my needs. I'll upgrade to a PA2 if one pops up at a decent price. The MiniDSP was on my radar, but the PX was for sale locally at a good price and I have a fetish for pro audio gear, so eh. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 10:36 on Dec 5, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 10:21
|
|
|
Has anyone tried using ASIO4ALL instead of the default Scarlett Solo (Focusrite) firmware? I trust that Focusrite know what they're doing, but I just want to make sure there isn't a better solution out there.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 16:58
|
|
|
ufarn posted:Has anyone tried using ASIO4ALL instead of the default Scarlett Solo (Focusrite) firmware? I trust that Focusrite know what they're doing, but I just want to make sure there isn't a better solution out there.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2017 17:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 21:40 |
|
|
ASIO4ALL sits on top of normal windows sound drivers, like for onboard stuff, and presents them as an asio device. It would probably work with focusrite's normal windows drivers, but I can't see a good reason to do it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 01:23
|
|