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the spyder posted:I will measure the 2.3 and the REW in the shop tomorrow. I would guess that the rotary would be smaller, at least when using the REW and renisis pans. How hard is it to convert a Wankel to dry sump? Seems like it would be easier than it would for a normal piston engine.
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# ? Dec 28, 2012 04:57 |
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 11:20 |
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Brigdh posted:
You know what, I didn't even consider the whole shift points thing. Whoops. It's still one of many ideas I'm kicking around.
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# ? Dec 28, 2012 04:57 |
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CommieGIR posted:How hard is it to convert a Wankel to dry sump? Seems like it would be easier than it would for a normal piston engine. Expensive if you want to use the Mazdaspeed front cover with integrated pump. I'm going accusump/single stage external driven of the crank myself. Otherwise, a good 1" piece of 6061 and a bit of machine time can make an amazing stiffening brace/pan. Plus you can mount anywhere on it.
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# ? Dec 28, 2012 05:24 |
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General_Failure posted:Okay that one rotor motor is very cool. Thanks for the measurement by the way. I just need to dig up some other measurements and compare. Sorry I don't really have a massive interest in the cars but the engines intrigue me. Lots of rotaries were auto. My rx3 and many 1970s cars had a 3sp Jatco. The triple rotor cosmo was auto. When I bought my car it had a standard 12A and the 3 spd auto, and I wanted neither (planned on a 13B and 5spd man). I thrashed the crap out of it, the gearbox outlasted the motor. Edit: The gearbox worked fine with the stock motor, but the kickdown can be nasty, ie turn a corner, plant your foot, it kicks down, red lines, loses traction and spins you around. So main drawback besides regular auto losses is you can't really floor it like you can a manual where you put it in the gear you want and have more control. But can drive normally just fine. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:09 on Dec 28, 2012 |
# ? Dec 28, 2012 12:06 |
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Norton made a rotary in the 80s. Air cooled, 2 rotor. I think it was about 800cc.
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# ? Dec 28, 2012 14:26 |
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I have always wanted a rotary motorcycle. The Suzuki model seems to come up pretty regularly.
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# ? Dec 28, 2012 22:00 |
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the spyder posted:Expensive if you want to use the Mazdaspeed front cover with integrated pump. I'm going accusump/single stage external driven of the crank myself. Otherwise, a good 1" piece of 6061 and a bit of machine time can make an amazing stiffening brace/pan. Plus you can mount anywhere on it. http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/pdfs/catalog/97CatComp.pdf Page 29 if anyone is curious to see what it looks like.
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# ? Dec 28, 2012 23:53 |
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Oh there is no way we can't have a rotary thread without mentioning this too: http://www.wired.com/images_blogs/gadgetlab/2011/06/clarianlabs_rotary_piston_generator_datasheet.pdf
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# ? Dec 29, 2012 00:03 |
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rcman50166 posted:Oh there is no way we can't have a rotary thread without mentioning this too: > Because of the scalable design of the rotary piston generator, hybrid batteries can be virtually any size That's a bit ambitious -- wouldn't there be a problem controlling the flame front in a really big rotor? Unless Mazda solves that its rumored laser ignition research.
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# ? Dec 29, 2012 12:16 |
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Norton made a rotary in the 80s. Air cooled, 2 rotor. I think it was about 800cc. Dont forget this beauty. If it was available id probably pick up riding bikes http://www.nortonmotorcycles.com/racing/NRV588/index.php
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# ? Dec 29, 2012 18:50 |
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kimbo305 posted:> Because of the scalable design of the rotary piston generator, hybrid batteries can be virtually any size By scalable, I think they are referring to the ability to slap another rotor on without having to really consider the whole design, like legos.
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# ? Dec 29, 2012 19:29 |
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kimbo305 posted:> Because of the scalable design of the rotary piston generator, hybrid batteries can be virtually any size Considering the next presumed engine will be the 16x, with a larger rotor- they must have found something to ensure a complete burn. i do believe they are talking about adding additional rotors, not physically scaling up the rotor size though. I am very interested to see what is coming out in the next few years. A friend has been consulting on a few Rotary UAV engines. Not to mention the possibility of the RX-9. Mind you I am a firm believer Mazda is ~5 years behind at this point on the RX development. They had to focus R+D on the Skyactive line to stay in business and stay competitive. It's a darn shame with the GT-R and FT-86 already out, you would think they would be putting out another sports car now. At least they re-affirmed their commitment to do so in the next 5 yrs.
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# ? Dec 29, 2012 22:42 |
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Maybe they are doing something like a larger afterburner rotor or something although I'm not sure how it'd be lubricated / cooled. Okay probably a silly idea but you never know.
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# ? Dec 29, 2012 22:58 |
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Anyone have any questions for Rob at Pineapple Racing? I spent all day tearing down a 93 touring for him to rebuild this week. Heading back next weekend to reinstall.
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# ? Jan 6, 2013 12:39 |
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Alright, which one of you did this
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# ? Jan 6, 2013 14:00 |
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EightBit posted:Holy hell that thing will be impossible to oil and cool properly Actually I think that it'll be drat easy to lubricate the Randcam Rotary. Think direct recycled oil injection like the SRIS on the old Suzuki GT750 2-stroke. All it would need is consumable oil reservoir, a tiny internal pickup reservoir, a small mechanical pump and a few injectors and pick-ups. As a mechanical engineer I see the design as very promising, and a real bitch-slap in my face, for why I never thought of this.
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# ? Jan 6, 2013 16:40 |
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Could you please change the link in the OP to http://rx7.foxed.ca. It is a little more direct. Thanks.
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# ? Jan 7, 2013 04:03 |
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Here is the 93 Touring I tore apart Saturday. 49k, Auto, single owner. Very nice fellow. Sadly a local shop really messed it up. It just had a new engine installed less then 250 miles ago and due to dozens of issues, we decided to pull it all back out. Glad we did. There was a plethora of missing hardware, broken sensors, and general hackery that I have to undo. This was my absolute WTF favorite moment. I have never, in 8 years of working on FD's, seen someone put the primary injectors in flipped 180. I had no clue it was possible! Hopefully it will go back together next weekend and be one less project FD at the shop.
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# ? Jan 7, 2013 04:22 |
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I spoke to Brandon Fitch at Flyin Miata about the pedal compability between the Miata and RX7. They're not the same, but I'll hack the FM pedal extension to work. The FC gas pedal without the rubber cover: Note the 2 holes. The Miata pedal, in contrast, doesn't seem to have a cover (I don't remember): https://www.flyinmiata.com/Store/images/21-74000a.jpg Extensions seems to use 3 corners of the built-in pedal holes to bolt up. But even the FC pedal set I found does that: http://www.autovation.net/products/Mazda/FCRX7/FCRX7_pedals/main.html Turns out it wants you to drill. So I see no reason to not cheap out and fit up the FM extension.
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# ? Jan 7, 2013 04:27 |
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Sgt Fox posted:Could you please change the link in the OP to http://rx7.foxed.ca. It is a little more direct. Thanks. Done
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# ? Jan 7, 2013 04:43 |
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Two pages in and no mention of the 5800lb dry, 21 foot long Mazda Parkway? Some strangely-formatted info from towards the end of this article:quote:June 1974 Parkway Rotary 26 – the rarest model was manufactured, it was the only bus in the world with rotary engine mounted. It was equipped with 13B engine version with combustion volume of 2 x 654 cm3 that had the power rating already 135 HP and had low rate of harmful substances in its exhaust. This power unit was managed by 4-gear manual gearbox. The big bus (its dimensions were 6195 x 1980 x 2295 mm, and laden mass of 2835 kg) had easily accelerated up to its cruising speed 120 kmph. We had one of the Super DX versions at Mazda Australia when I worked there about 12 years ago, and it was as slow as you'd expect. The ride sure was smooth though. Apparently they can still be occasionally seen trundling around third-world South East Asian nations.
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# ? Jan 7, 2013 05:40 |
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I bought the RX-8. The test drive way too much fun. I figure I bought a $40,000 car for $2,500. As long as it costs me less than 6km/$ I am doing better than the last guy. This is my logic.
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# ? Jan 7, 2013 06:02 |
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EightBit posted:Holy hell that thing will be impossible to oil and cool properly I would imagine it is lubricated like a turbine or a pump would be. It looks like a mix between a hydraulic motor and an air compressor. I don't think I would call it a rotary in the conventional sense.
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# ? Jan 7, 2013 06:35 |
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What do you mean the injectors were flipped 180 degrees? Like was the fuel hook up on the intake side of the engine and the injector's business end was in the fuel rail?
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# ? Jan 7, 2013 07:10 |
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Phone posted:What do you mean the injectors were flipped 180 degrees? Like was the fuel hook up on the intake side of the engine and the injector's business end was in the fuel rail? I've been wondering that too. My knowledge of these engines doesn't extend beyond the basics but I'm having trouble figuring it out. My thought was the injector rail was put on upside down in the wrong place, but I don't know.
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# ? Jan 7, 2013 08:09 |
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The electrical connections are on the wrong side. If you remove the top retainer (they are side feed) you can rotate it 180 and face the purple electrical plugs towards the two mounting holes. They are backwards in the picture. Let me see if I can find a correct fuel rail. EDIT
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# ? Jan 7, 2013 08:17 |
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Corrupt Cypher posted:I bought the RX-8. The test drive way too much fun. I figure I bought a $40,000 car for $2,500. As long as it costs me less than 6km/$ I am doing better than the last guy. This is my logic. Sounds foolproof to me
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# ? Jan 7, 2013 18:26 |
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Anyone done a steering wheel swap in the FC before? I'm doing it in hopes of getting more leg room to make it a bit comfier to drive. I found these two articles: http://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-non-technical-pictures-198/help-install-aftermarket-steeringwheel-823693/ http://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/aftermarket-steering-wheel-how-writeup-388415/ A '91 FC won't have an airbag in the wheel, right?
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# ? Jan 9, 2013 23:26 |
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kimbo305 posted:Anyone done a steering wheel swap in the FC before? I'm doing it in hopes of getting more leg room to make it a bit comfier to drive. I found these two articles: Only the verts had airbags
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# ? Jan 10, 2013 00:33 |
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Did the gas pedal extension today: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3145227&pagenumber=161#post411473513 Works well. The steering wheel is next. Still haven't figured out the driving dynamics of the FC yet. As I've admitted to elsewhere, the front and rear all-seasons are different, so I really need to change those before I can say anything for certain. I also have shot shocks, making the car very wallowy in turns. Lifting slightly in turns seems to cause understeer in the front. Assuming the front tires get more grip under dive, I assume I must not have the wheel turned over as much as I think. The high steering ratio takes some getting used to. e: axle hop -- the spyder said the passive rear steering bushing thing should be taken out of FCs? Any of you guys done that? kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Jan 13, 2013 |
# ? Jan 13, 2013 18:49 |
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The passive rear steer bushings definitely should go since they're most likely worn out by now. They were intended to change toe while cornering, however once worn out they'll start randomly changing your rear toe all the time. Replacing them can be done with the hubs/trailing arms still on the car, however chances are it will be easier with them off since you can then use a hydraulic press to push the old ones out. Like all stock FC bushings, the old ones are a PITA to remove.
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# ? Jan 13, 2013 19:38 |
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Yeah, the only way you are getting new DTSS bushings is to buy new hubs from Mazda, at something like $300 each. DTSS eliminators is just cheaper, and recommended for high performance driving. I haven't done it yet, but it is on my todo list. Mazdatrix and Racing Beat both have install instructions for their kits which should give you some idea of what needs to be done and where
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# ? Jan 14, 2013 01:20 |
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Apparently there is a sub-forum on Mazdas24/7 that exists solely for the greatest highway bruiser ever made - The Eunos Cosmo http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123773205-Eunos-Cosmo-20th-Anniversary-Meet-RECAP I really do need to get a larger garage so I can finally buy one of these.
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# ? Jan 15, 2013 04:02 |
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I want one. In other news: Rob hasen't kicked me out of his bay yet, despite only being able to work Sat on getting this car done.
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# ? Jan 15, 2013 07:27 |
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McTinkerson posted:Apparently there is a sub-forum on Mazdas24/7 that exists solely for the greatest highway bruiser ever made - The Eunos Cosmo Don't go on mazdas247; it's like feeding the zoo animals.
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# ? Jan 15, 2013 07:50 |
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Complete steering wheel noobin. http://i.imgur.com/NMxMN.jpg What is the black wire from the hub for? I plugged it into that chrome centering ring for illustration. Not sure what wire coming from the steering column needs to plug where.
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# ? Jan 15, 2013 16:42 |
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Green should plug in to the chrome ring and the black wire connects to the wires for the horn I believe.
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# ? Jan 15, 2013 18:44 |
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the spyder posted:Green should plug in to the chrome ring and the black wire connects to the wires for the horn I believe. So: - the wire from the column will be male and plug to the black - green/yellow plugs to the chrome ring tab - the tab at the center of the horn button stays unplugged?
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# ? Jan 15, 2013 19:21 |
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Fo3 posted:Lots of rotaries were auto. My rx3 and many 1970s cars had a 3sp Jatco. The triple rotor cosmo was auto. The RX8 autos really aren't so bad if you do your spirited driving with tiptronic. There's no kickdown. All of the auto RX8s (even the unfortunate 4 speed model like I have from '05) have tiptronic and paddle shifters.
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# ? Jan 15, 2013 23:14 |
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 11:20 |
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kimbo305 posted:So: Something seems off about that wiring. According to the wiring diagram (F-3) a hot lead goes to the horn switch, which ground out the the chassis. If I had to guess, the wire from the column will be non-black and not grounded (looks like green and orange according to the wiring diagram). That should go to the horn switch (either tab will work). The other tab will go to the chrome ring, and thus ground the switch to the hub. The black wire should connect to the chassis (ground the hub to the chassis). What steering wheel did you pick?
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# ? Jan 16, 2013 00:02 |