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Got the call from the dealer today that the Legacy we factory ordered just made it in. Out with the 4Runner tomorrow, in with the Subaru. I really hope I don't regret getting this bucket of bolts. The 4Runner has been awesome.
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Jun 1, 2011 07:15
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Got it. I must say I'm truly surprised by the roominess of it, particularly the back is awesome. Passenger front seat is right back in this photo. Easily more room than the 4Runner. Got to get used to the lower clearance (already heard a SCRAPE as I burned a U near over a pothole, nothing serious) but so far so good. Also, Azurite Blue Pearl is beautiful.
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Jun 2, 2011 00:52
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we've got a new project car in the shop. it's going to be a good one: has a ver7 swap, we're building a 2.6l and coverting to 5x114. Also ordered lots of Aerosim parts. Anyone want to buy some rotas?
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Jun 2, 2011 05:39
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Just a warning for anyone installing the Whiteline ALK (KCA334) on a newer car.. after having it on the car for 2 weeks, was in the shop last night for something else. We noticed the left bushing was in the process of working its way out of the control arm on the left side of the car. It was so loose, in fact, that you could move the entire LCA by tapping it with a mallet. The tech recalled that he had thought the Whiteline bushings had slid in very easily, instead of being super tight like the OEM bushing. We put the OEM bushings back in, I'll probably hold off on this mod for a few years.
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Jun 2, 2011 11:43
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So I recently picked up an 06 STi and being new to Subaru's I have a few questions: There is a 'clunk' sound in the rear which I was told something relating to suspension needs to be lubed back there. I had the car in the air to check it out and nothing seems to be loose and bushings appear fine; but occasionally when turning at any speed, acceleration or deceleration ill hear a knock from the rear of the car. Im relatively sure its not the exhaust knocking on things but I could be wrong. Also, ive done a bit of searching on NASIOC and iwsti but I cant seem to get a straight answer: is piston slap common on ALL Subaru's? I know the cause of it but I hear a tapping from the motor when its < 60 degrees F and the motor is cold. It goes away when warm. Does not sound like valvetrain noise or rod knock and I imagine if it was really bad I would have blown the motor by now. Car has 40k miles on it, 6k on the new motor (replaced under warranty from bearing failure). Mods are Invidia catted turboback, SPT intake and Cobb tune. Pic of the whip: 
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Jun 2, 2011 15:40
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jamal posted:we've got a new project car in the shop. it's going to be a good one: I think I recognize this car? "Mannslayer"'s old car on rs25? http://www.rs25.com/forums/f12/t136079-team-limit-classic-impreza.html c355n4 fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jun 2, 2011 |
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Jun 2, 2011 15:48
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thebearheeb posted:'clunk' All normal, welcome to the wonderful world of Subaru's. Also good choice on the 06. Likely one of the best years for the STI. TiC Klunk Killer: http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_9_11_261_274_1198&products_id=187 Amandyke fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Jun 2, 2011 |
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Jun 2, 2011 16:28
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Amandyke posted:All normal, welcome to the wonderful world of Subaru's. Also good choice on the 06. Likely one of the best years for the STI. TiC Klunk Killer may be a bit premature depending on what the clunk is. thebearheeb - Are you experiencing it when there's an obvious shift on the suspension (driving over a sharp bump (though sometimes not so sharp mine was first noticed on a crack in my driveway at 2mph))? If so get under the car and tighten down the end links and grease up the bushings that hold the sway bar and you're good to go. Some endlinks are noisier than others so you may want to figure out what you've got.
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Jun 2, 2011 17:22
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allonblack posted:TiC Klunk Killer may be a bit premature depending on what the clunk is. Actually I experience it in any shift of the suspension. Especially on low speed turns. For example, I just came back from lunch and as I was reversing out of the parking space, wheels turned slight left I heard a clunk from the rear right side of the car. Ill get under the car again and see if the end links are loose.
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Jun 2, 2011 18:34
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STIs are pretty infamous for their inverted dampers clunking. This was the first thing I thought of. Some clunking at low speeds is relatively normal (particularly in reverse), but it is probably time for an 06 to be getting a regrease. Check this out. For the sake of information, Feal Suspension has a refresh service that regreases and repacks the strut and also adds (at your choice) new zerk fittings so you can grease the struts without having to disassemble them.
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Jun 2, 2011 20:14
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slidebite posted:Got it. I must say I'm truly surprised by the roominess of it, particularly the back is awesome. Trunk size kind of sucks because of it, but, yeah, the backseat is practically 7 series sized.
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Jun 2, 2011 20:25
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Seat Safety Switch posted:STIs are pretty infamous for their inverted dampers clunking. This was the first thing I thought of. Yeah I've got a set over there now. For about the 4th time. I keep having them revalved and then end up selling them before I have a chance to put them on. Maybe next week.
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Jun 2, 2011 20:30
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Jamal, you were talking about AL radiators a few weeks ago. Who's do you like, it looks like there are three for the LGT: Mishimoto, Koyo, and Gimmick. There's a lot of complaints about the gimmick being crap. The Mishimoto is like $200 cheaper than the Koyo, but I will pay for quality if warranted. Also, certain people claim AL rads will leak? No doing this for another 10k or so, but I was thinking about it. Speaking fo which is there a better water pump for the LGT (or even a need?)
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Jun 3, 2011 00:05
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koyo for sure. I'm wary of everything mishimoto makes after seeing a thermostat explode, ruin a water pump and then motor. The fin density and efficiency of their radiators is not as good as the koyos either. For an n/a car like sockington's the mishimoto should be more than good enough provided it doesn't have any holes in it. It's actually the oem radiators with plastic endtanks that tend to start leaking. You'll also want to get new clamps (and hoses if you feel like it), and make sure the person doing the install cuts down the upper hose. the added thickness of the radiator moves the hose closer to the pulleys and I've seen them get cut plenty of times. For a water pump just use the OEM one or a gates timing kit. There's no upgrade for the water pump. jamal fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Jun 3, 2011 |
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Jun 3, 2011 00:19
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Is there a reason to consider replacing a radiator if it's not leaking or clogged? What other things can go wrong with it other than smashed fins? Rust? The whole cooling system is a fairly big gap in my knowledge, but I'm planning on doing a coolant flush probably before the summer is out - so the more knowledge before I go in there, the better.
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Jun 3, 2011 00:33
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if you're tracking the car it's nice to have a bigger aluminum radiator. It gives you more coolant capacity and you can run higher pressure which makes the system slightly more efficient. I'm shopping around trying to figure out who makes one for my car because I'll be surprised if the one in there makes it 6 more months before cracking. As far as I know it's the original 190000 mile radiator and I see them fail as early as 100k.
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Jun 3, 2011 01:35
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jamal posted:As far as I know it's the original 190000 mile radiator and I see them fail as early as 100k. 8ender's car had just shy of 120,000miles. Figured it was cheap insurance and I knew it'd be cleaner inside than the old OEM one.
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Jun 3, 2011 01:37
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I'm trying to sell my '05 Legacy GT and I'm wondering if I've set the initial price too high. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2411858811.html I figured I'd start at blue book and work down from there - ($12,500 is "Good" condition) but I'm wondering if a car that has the problems I listed in the ad should be asking for less. Am I falling for that old trick and overvaluing a car that means a lot to me?
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Jun 3, 2011 05:17
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jamal posted:and I see them fail as early as 100k. Like mine!
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Jun 3, 2011 05:39
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Anyone know where the DBW relays are?
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Jun 3, 2011 08:53
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Not really related to any of the discussion going on here at the moment but anyone have any recommendations on some good, reasonably priced, brake pads and rotors for an '06 2.5i? I had posted earlier about my girlfriend having an accident with leaving the parking brake on and warping a couple of rotors and I've been able to squeeze about 10k more miles out of them but I'm at the point of needing to do something.
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Jun 3, 2011 20:16
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Benjamin Disraeli posted:Not really related to any of the discussion going on here at the moment but anyone have any recommendations on some good, reasonably priced, brake pads and rotors for an '06 2.5i? Here you go, $246 http://knsbrakes.com/carItemDetails.php?car_id=94&item_id=36803 Or $188 with standard rotors instead of premium: http://knsbrakes.com/carItemDetails.php?car_id=94&item_id=36790
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Jun 3, 2011 20:57
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So I called up the subaru dealership in town to ask if they sell extra-s, and the guy at the parts counter was like "naw man it's just regular gear oil, nothing fancy, you should be able to get it from anywhere" and then he went on to say that they won't siphon me out a few quarts of their OEM gear oil. Which should be extra-s. So I buy extra-s online now I guess?
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Jun 4, 2011 01:30
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their oem stuff might not even be extra S. If anyone wants to buy a 20l can of the stuff the part number is K0322AA093. As far as I can tell it's fine to ship oil so I guess I could put some into smaller containers.
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Jun 4, 2011 01:50
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jamal posted:their oem stuff might not even be extra S. If anyone wants to buy a 20l can of the stuff the part number is K0322AA093. As far as I can tell it's fine to ship oil so I guess I could put some into smaller containers. I could use an oil change worth too...
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Jun 4, 2011 03:49
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Cat Terrist posted:Anyone know where the DBW relays are? Anyone? I want to get this POS working again
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Jun 4, 2011 06:47
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jamal posted:their oem stuff might not even be extra S. If anyone wants to buy a 20l can of the stuff the part number is K0322AA093. As far as I can tell it's fine to ship oil so I guess I could put some into smaller containers. Check out this margin. http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index.php/subaru-75w90-extra-s-gear-and-transmission-quart-bottle.html
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Jun 4, 2011 06:54
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no idea where the relay is but from what I can gather it seems like it could be the problem. The only other times I've had a similar problem was when there was something physically stuck in the throttle plate (twice), and once when a TB actually went bad. Jesus gently caress $20 a quart for extra S? I've been selling it for $10. Time to jack up the price. jamal fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Jun 4, 2011 |
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Jun 4, 2011 06:57
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Well, they sell it at $15 /quart. I've never actually seen it on sale for $20. It is magical fluid though. I'm loving it in my 2002.
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Jun 4, 2011 17:50
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If one of you starts selling it for a reasonable price I'd be your first customer.
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Jun 4, 2011 21:13
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Whats up guys! Looking to get some new wheels for my 08 STi. Do any of you know where I could find a decent deal on a set of Volk TE37s?
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Jun 5, 2011 02:51
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My father gave me his old Outback (1998) and it's in great running condition but there's a handful of cosmetic issues I'm trying to work out for a reasonable price. The biggest one is the hood scoop, it basically looks like the clear coat is coming off.  There's probably no good way to recondition it so where would be a good place to get a new one that will actually match the paint? The car has been garaged it's whole life so fortunately the paint hasn't faded much if at all but it does have a good amount of scratches and nicks being 13 year old Subaru paint. Second is one of the alloy wheels has started to oxidize, again probably no way to fix it since the coating has completely come off. One of the other wheels has started as well. Is there anything that can be done to slow it down at least? Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Jun 6, 2011 |
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Jun 5, 2011 23:26
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LOoks like the phantom issue with my car is a known ECU fault.
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Jun 6, 2011 11:11
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Jamal/anyone who knows, how the heck do you remove the cam sprockets on an EJ25 without cracking them to pieces? I figured I could just crank on them with a breaker bar with the timing belt still on and they'd break loose. That strategy worked for the first one, but I quickly destroyed the second one I attempted to break loose (plastic bits everywhere). The reason I'm removing them is to do the seals.
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Jun 6, 2011 13:20
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are the seals leaking? I usually don't bother replacing them unless they do for this reason. To take them off I usually take an old timing belt and wrap it around the crank sprocket and the two pulleys on that side so that the belt gets pinched and wrapped underneath itself and the sprockets can't rotate.
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Jun 6, 2011 17:18
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Front LSDs are awesome, and you should all get one.
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Jun 6, 2011 19:31
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I agree, I really want one for my Mazda 3 :P
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Jun 6, 2011 19:37
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nm posted:Front LSDs are awesome, and you should all get one. Don't say that, last thing I need is to dump more money into my crappy RS.
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Jun 7, 2011 02:29
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jamal posted:are the seals leaking? Oh yeah. They're leaking bad enough that I failed safety inspection for having oil leaking through the seals, out the timing cover, and all the way out to the front-right brake assembly, coating it thoroughly in oil. Every time I parked and got out it smelled like a refinery. Any pictures or video describing your method? Is it anything like this?:  I just don't know how I'd get enough leverage on it that way without spinning the crank in the process.
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Jun 7, 2011 02:42
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Impact gun or rope trick.
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Jun 7, 2011 02:50
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