|
ETPC posted:I'm a massive packrat and I like archiving things, especially old stuff that is hard to find. A good quality 600w PSU (like that Seasonic) should be able to handle that build, even with the 1070. 1600w is just insane and unnecessary in most cases.
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 21:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 22:10 |
|
|
Just taking that PSU off brought it down to $3278 cdn!
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 21:37
|
|
|
If you're going that balls out on a build, why not throw in more RAM? Might as well do 32 or 64GB, it could probably end up acting as cache for whatever software RAID you're going to do with those 3 drives, or you could even just do a 40GB RAMDisk at all times or something.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 21:40
|
|
|
I don't think I use anything that would benefit from more then 16gb of ram right now. I want to be smart with this build and not just buy the most expensive and shiny.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 21:42
|
|
|
ETPC posted:I don't think I use anything that would benefit from more then 16gb of ram right now. I want to be smart with this build and not just buy the most expensive and shiny. You've got a $130 sound card in there, though. If you were really after the highest quality analog output from a PC you should look at an external DAC or headphone amp or similar, or you could just get the sound out digitally over HDMI or optical or something. Also your headphones are called "Butt Revolver"? Consider my interest piqued.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 21:44
|
|
|
That's a good point, actually. Maybe I went overboard. Especially because I'm getting it exclusively for EAX support..... .....Which hasen't been used in any game since 2008. Also, I think that is my cloud-to-butt plugin. Woops. It should be Cloud Revolver.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 21:49
|
|
|
As you seem to have just realized, sound card will do nothing for you. Blu ray writer you are unlikely to use unless you have a specific plan in mind, probably just get a dvd drive if you need an optical drive at all. Other than that the $ total seems really high but it's just beacuse you're sinking a shitload of money into hard drives and peripherals so if you are sure you want all that then okay why not.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 21:57
|
|
|
Yeah, I took out the sound card. I might take out the blu-ray writer, but I still do need a fast optical drive for burning dvd's and installing the few disc based games I have. I'll look for something cheaper. I'd re-use my current one, but the last time I put a DVD in, it took five minutes to start, so I think it's about to die. God, now I feel like a total fool for wanting to spend all this money 
ETPC fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Jan 23, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 22:00
|
|
|
Having 32 gb ram myself, it reduces your page file space to something inconsequential. It's been nifty for not using the ssd for it, having done insane 6gb chrome tabs, music, and a aaa game all running at once with no noticeable impact.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 22:06
|
|
|
ETPC posted:Yeah, I took out the sound card. I might take out the blu-ray writer, but I still do need a fast optical drive for burning dvd's and installing the few disc based games I have. I'll look for something cheaper. At that point the dollar total is mostly high because you're including a $400 set of speakers (I hope you're doing your research on these elsewhere, I don't know if they're a good value for the money or not. There's a speakers thread in Inspect Your Gadgets.) And, yknow, $950 in hard drives. You might be able to get better price per TB from a larger number of smaller drives but you probably want a NAS at that point. It's a huge amount of storage so it's not gonna be cheap. Maybe if you want to keep the price down you could just keep some of your existing storage and stick more with buying the stuff that gives you gaming performance? If you're buying 18TB of storage for a new build because you describe yourself as a packrat, I'm sure you must have a shitload of storage space already. Does it really all need replacing? If you feel like a fool, just focus on spending money on stuff that gives you a real benefit. Don't spend money for the sake of spending money and you aren't being a fool. So ask yourself stuff like do my existing hard drives still work fine and do I really need $950 of replacement/additional hard drives or would my life be the same if I kept my existing hard drives and just bought the other stuff? (I have no way of knowing, maybe your existing hard drives are almost full etc etc. Just trying to give you ideas)
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 22:08
|
|
|
ETPC posted:So I've come into a hefty chunk of money and I wanted to update my system, but I'm worried I'm *completely* overdoing it. Someone tell me if I've lost my mind or if this is a good build or not? This is actually under-doing it for 4k gaming. Go heavy on the GPU. Assuming you really don't care about money build around a pascal titan or 1080's in SLI and JESUS WEPT find a storage solution that isn't ~$1000CAD.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 22:21
|
|
|
Yep, you're overdoing it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 22:36
|
|
|
ETPC posted:God, now I feel like a total fool for wanting to spend all this money A few suggestions: 1. Seagate Ironwolf 6TB drives are $269 as opposed to the $319 for the older Hitachi NAS drives. Consider also the feasibility of going with a NAS box (or a cheap Dell T20 mini-server running something like FreeNAS) to host said drives, for both network storage and connect the actual NAS enclosure to your PC via a USB 3.0 link (unfortunately none that I know of use USB 3.1 Gen 2 yet). Keeping the 3.5" disks external not only lessens the power load on your system, but it cuts down on internal cable clutter. Or just buy a single 10TB HDD and hope that's enough - if it's not, add another drive of variable size down the line. 2. Khablam's right that you need to 'go bigger' on the GPU if you want to entertain the thought of 4K. That being said, there's nothing stopping you from buying an EVGA 1070 or 1080 now and taking advantage of the Step-Up program any time in the 90 days after purchase to use the credit toward picking up a 1080Ti if the March launch isn't bullshit. 3. 32GB of DDR4 isn't a bad idea, especially since 2x16GB kits exist now (be sure to check the Asus website to find their DRAM compatibility chart for your chosen board). You're kind of swinging for the fences on this build, so there's no reason to not indulge in a slight bit of overkill. 4. I bought a Blu-Ray reader/writer for my system. I've used it *maybe* three times for BR work. 5. Go with a better UPS. The one you have selected is kind of anemic - I use one like it simply to power my NAS box and router, and have my system on a boosted APC BR1500G with the auxillary battery pack. Look into Cyberpower's 1000-1500VA options. 6. As others have said, that PSU is way overkill. Go with a 750W 80 Plus Titanium like the Seasonic Prime series: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151159 7. Unless you have a 'thing' for 5.1 speakers, consider going with a good wired headset like the Sennheiser GAME ONE (or ZERO if you like closed cans) and hook it up to a decent headphone amp/DAC in lieu of using a sound card. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jan 23, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 22:48
|
|
|
ETPC posted:So I've come into a hefty chunk of money and I wanted to update my system, but I'm worried I'm *completely* overdoing it. Someone tell me if I've lost my mind or if this is a good build or not? This build is a huge loving waste of money in all the wrong places, please please please reconsider and get some help. I'll update this post when I get home, but oh man, please DO NOT go ahead with this build.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 22:54
|
|
|
ETPC posted:So I've come into a hefty chunk of money and I wanted to update my system, but I'm worried I'm *completely* overdoing it. Someone tell me if I've lost my mind or if this is a good build or not? Take money from the PSU/Hard drives/Blueray burner/sound card (Christ you certainly don't need that) and put it into a better CPU cooler so you can run that 7700K at 5GHz, a faster kit of RAM, and more GPU horsepower. Those are the things that are actually going to help your game performance substantially. When it comes time to get a new monitor, I'd skip 4K and go for a 1440p144Hz GSync IPS screen like the Acer XB271HU. The resolution decrease is mainly a positive as it is half as intensive on your GPU, and the increased smoothness is massively worth it. The only monitors that I'd recommend over that are an X34 if you want 21:9 or an Asus PG279UQ (4K144Hz HDR) if you can wait and want to go all out.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2017 22:54
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:
The Maximus has an amp built in. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Deepcool GABRIEL 61.9 CFM CPU Cooler ($36.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII IMPACT Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($224.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Kingston Savage 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($70.09 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($419.02 @ Amazon) Case: Silverstone ML08B-H HTPC Case ($79.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan ($21.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $1207.95 Pretty sure that's gonna be my final build. Thanks for the help, all. The Noctua is for the cpu cooler, which at 65mm total will fit inside the ML08, despite the spec sheet saying 58mm tops. The Maximus is just a Z170 board, but you can flash new BIOS on it without a CPU installed, so Kaby Lake will be a non-issue.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 00:36
|
|
|
ETPC posted:So I've come into a hefty chunk of money and I wanted to update my system, but I'm worried I'm *completely* overdoing it. Someone tell me if I've lost my mind or if this is a good build or not? If you're going utterly balls out probably get a 250/500gb NVMe like the 960 evo just as a boot drive or something. Apparently it improves speed from "near-instant" to "press button, get login screen".
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 01:02
|
|
|
Anyone able to help me with overclocking my new pc build? The UEFI is totally different from my old pc that had the Asus P9Z68 in which I could set the boost clock. I'm trying to overclock the i5 7600k on an Asus TUF Z270 mark2. I've set it to 4.7Ghz syncing all cores and messed around with voltage to 1.3 but it keeps crashing when I run CPU-Z stress test. Also I have no clue at all what else to do since it doesn't seem to be as simple as setting the boost clock speed as my old motherboard.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 01:50
|
|
|
Agrajag posted:Anyone able to help me with overclocking my new pc build? The UEFI is totally different from my old pc that had the Asus P9Z68 in which I could set the boost clock. Set VCore to "AUTO" and see where it's happy. If the thermals are acceptable, just keep it there, if they're not, dial it back little-by-little until you find the threshold.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 01:56
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:Set VCore to "AUTO" and see where it's happy. If the thermals are acceptable, just keep it there, if they're not, dial it back little-by-little until you find the threshold. Ok, I already reset everything back to default before making that post, but are you saying that all I have to do is make a change to Vcore option? Oh and I set my XMP profile for my Ram to 3000. Everything else is back to default.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 02:09
|
|
|
Agrajag posted:Ok, I already reset everything back to default before making that post, but are you saying that all I have to do is make a change to Vcore option? Oh and I set my XMP profile for my Ram to 3000. Everything else is back to default. With my 2500K I decided to go with a conservative 44x multiplier, and I manually set all cores to that (keeping Speedstep on, of course). For VCore I trusted the board to regulate that as-needed, so I kept it on "AUTO," even though I could probably shave off some and still be completely stable. As for my RAM, I set all the timings manually as according to the specs on the box/website. There's just a sense of questionably-useful 'security' in knowing that everything's set the way it should be.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 02:15
|
|
|
Get off XMP dude. Do one thing at a time, otherwise you wont know what the gently caress is going wrong or how to fix it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 02:29
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:With my 2500K I decided to go with a conservative 44x multiplier, and I manually set all cores to that (keeping Speedstep on, of course). For VCore I trusted the board to regulate that as-needed, so I kept it on "AUTO," even though I could probably shave off some and still be completely stable. As for my RAM, I set all the timings manually as according to the specs on the box/website. There's just a sense of questionably-useful 'security' in knowing that everything's set the way it should be. Ok gonna check if this new UEFI on the z270 has a vcore option, but I can most definitely say that I did not see any Speedstep option. I assume that instead of "sync all cores", I should set each core to 4.7 (or 4.4)? Problem I'm confused is because this new UEFI looks completely different and has different options from the old one I was a bit more familiar with. edit: Ok I just check in AI Tweaker and it does not have a Vcore option. I did however tried to set each core individually to 4.4 but they all default back to 3.8. There is one option called "OC Tuner" that I am not familiar with. Is that the same as Vcore? Agrajag fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Jan 24, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 02:30
|
|
|
Agrajag posted:Ok gonna check if this new UEFI on the z270 has a vcore option, but I can most definitely say that I did not see any Speedstep option. I assume that instead of "sync all cores", I should set each core to 4.7 (or 4.4)? 4.4 would be a pretty anemic OC for a 7600K, I was just saying how I set my 2500K up. There will be options in the Advanced Mode to fiddle with VCore, and while I chose to manually set all cores to x44, syncing them does the same thing. And yeah, make one change at a time, and better yet, make them while you have paper and pen nearby so you can write down what you did so it's easier to undo if necessary. The only other thing I can recommend is to hit up YouTube for your board or the Z170 version of it. There are videos that will show you how to navigate the BIOS and what's what. I can't imagine there's a ton of difference between them.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 02:39
|
|
|
You choose sync all cores and then under "1 - core ratio limit" you change auto to 47. This will change all core ratio limits to 47. Core voltage is set to auto by default so your motherboard can push retarded voltage to the cpu. You want to manually get core voltage under control as soon as possible because it has a big impact on your temps and fan noise.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 02:49
|
|
|
I don't know what I'm doing wrong and I absolutely refuse to believe I could have lost the silicon lottery in such a spectacular fashion yet again with the i5 7600k. I can't run cpu-z stress test for longer than 6 minutes before getting a black screen at 4.5Ghz! WTF. I followed this tutorial to the T. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THKOi3mhE4U I can not loving believe I lost out on the i7 2600k silicon lottery AND the i5 7600k, NO loving WAY. I must be doing something wrong.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 05:18
|
|
|
I removed the speakers (I already have a budget 5.1 set from a few years ago that is totally fine, but I saw THX certified and then the executive level functions of my brain shut off) and I put in cheaper hard drives. The reason I'm getting a completely loving ludicrous storage setup is because the mechanical hard drives I have now are super old, super slow, sometimes lose data and routinely just totally stall. It's a ton of fun. Right now I have one 500gb SSD that is brand new that I'm going to give to my partner for her PC, two moderately old 2tb drives, one super fuckin' ancient 500gb drive and a brand new 4tb My Book. I also switched out the 16gb for a 32gb kit, even though I do feel like maybe that is overkill....despite hours ago being ready to buy a fuckin' Sound Blaster in 2017. Can anyone recommend a speedy optical drive? Or should I still obey the rule that is "go with the cheapest one you can find." Also, I'll switch out this UPS too. Only reason I went with it is because Wirecutter recommanded it. I wanted to get two, one for my pc and one for the family room where all the other electronics are currently plugged into just outlets. Thanks again y'all for talking some sense into my fool head. I've never had a huge amount of money to play with like this so so I kinda lost it. Here is my new setup: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($467.98 @ DirectCanada) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($72.99 @ Newegg Canada) Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($285.98 @ DirectCanada) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($259.99 @ Newegg Canada) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($399.98 @ DirectCanada) Storage: Seagate IronWolf 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($269.99 @ Amazon Canada) Storage: Seagate IronWolf 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($269.99 @ Amazon Canada) Storage: Seagate IronWolf 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($269.99 @ Amazon Canada) Case: be quiet! Silent Base 800 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($133.32 @ DirectCanada) Headphones: Kingston HyperX Butt Revolver Headset ($119.99 @ DirectCanada) Total: $2550.20 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-23 23:43 EST-0500 Will IronWolfs still be good for a traditional desktop pc? I keep seeing they are optimized for NAS, is that just marketing fluff? Old edits: I might get rid of the wi-fi adapter because I would ideally never use it. How come that isn't built into motherboards nowadays? Also, the UPS here looks like a power surge monitor and not a surge protector/power brick like I'm used to. I've honestly never used a UPS before but was told they are pretty important now? Oh wow, I'm an idiot. UPS's are for like, home networks and poo poo. Not just for computers and TV's. Let's junk that then. ETPC fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Jan 24, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 05:26
|
|
|
Agrajag posted:I don't know what I'm doing wrong and I absolutely refuse to believe I could have lost the silicon lottery in such a spectacular fashion yet again with the i5 7600k. I can't run cpu-z stress test for longer than 6 minutes before getting a black screen at 4.5Ghz! WTF. Something seems up. Kaby Lake are supposed to be better overclockers, it is one of the selling points. You can reach 4.5 on a 6600k without super magic cooling. Did you apply your paste correctly? I am not sure what I would check first, but I think you should be able to reach at least 4.5.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 06:39
|
|
|
unlawfulsoup posted:Something seems up. Kaby Lake are supposed to be better overclockers, it is one of the selling points. You can reach 4.5 on a 6600k without super magic cooling. Did you apply your paste correctly? I am not sure what I would check first, but I think you should be able to reach at least 4.5. pea method on cpu, placed the cooler on top, and screwed down each side at equal intervals till it was tight. cpu fan plugged into the cpu fan header. im kinda pissed that i can't even get 4.5 stable. I definitely think something is up.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 07:02
|
|
|
Kinda hard to tell with so little information. Whats core voltage? Whats max core and package temperature shortly before it blackscreens? Does it always blackscreen or does it sometimes BSOD? If so, what is the bugcheck name?
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 08:42
|
|
|
I'm interested in moving away from a desktop footprint to a mini pc. Are there any out there that are worthwhile? I'm looking for an i7 with the "best" integrated graphics I can find.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 13:56
|
|
|
Blinkz0rz posted:I'm interested in moving away from a desktop footprint to a mini pc. Are there any out there that are worthwhile? I'm looking for an i7 with the "best" integrated graphics I can find. I dunno if there are any mini PCs that are worthwhile, but I did find a very tiny case that was designed with GPU-free computing in mind. Went from there because I got bored. Take these suggestions with several grains of salt: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.69 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg Marketplace) Motherboard: ASRock Z270M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($122.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($88.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ B&H) Case: Inwin BQS656.DD120BL Mini ITX Desktop Case w/120W Power Supply ($75.99 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $877.54 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available (1) I've never heard of the case before, so can't speak to whether it's easy to build in. The external power brick probably means quieter operating than an internal PSU with a tiny fan, so that's a plus. (2) The case accepts CPU coolers up to 47mm high, and the C7 is 47mm high. Better hope both specs are correct. (3) According to PC Part Picker, this system has a max power draw of 126W, which is more than the PSU can provide. On the other hand, I don't know what it would take to be using the CPU, the SSD, and literally every component on the motherboard to its maximum power. (4) The Z270 was only $15 more expensive than the H270, so why not? Nothing here can overclock, but if you do decide to transfer the build you'll have a solid motherboard already. (5) The 7700 may be more CPU than you need. Consider the 7600 instead, and save some $$$$. (6) On the topic of saving money, I make no promises about whether this is the least expensive solution to your desires. I just got bored and wanted to see what I could come up with.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 14:53
|
|
|
Grundulum posted:I dunno if there are any mini PCs that are worthwhile, but I did find a very tiny case that was designed with GPU-free computing in mind. Went from there because I got bored. Take these suggestions with several grains of salt: I know I said i7 but I was looking at this build based on their portable LAN build and it looked like the i5 should be fine. I don't care to spend that much on a video card (thoughts on a replacement?) and I might drop the SSD to the 256GB version. Thoughts on the RAM selection? I've never heard of Team Dark before.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 15:07
|
|
|
Just after a quick sanity check. In the UK. Q9550 @3.4ghz 8gb ram Asus p5q something mobo 560ti 1gb 550w psu (soon to be replaced) 1680 x 1050 monitor Now, I realise this rig is getting on 10 yeats or something like that, but I've found its still got plenty of grunt for most things. I've done tests in all the games I play, dirt rally, xcom2, mad max, rocket league, ksp, kotor1/2 and a few others. I also do some video editing but nothing major and usually 5 minute clips in 720p so not too stressful. I've found in pretty much all the games I play that the cpu only gets to say 50-75% utilisation, sometimes much less, meanwhile the graphics card is fully pegged at 100% at pretty much all times. I'd love to change my xcom fps from its aweful 15-55fps range it currently has. And while I know all about how terrible that game is for optimisation and how it's impossible to get a solid 60fps, I also know that when I'm in the geoscape part it tanks to 15fps with the gpu at 99% and cpu at a whopping 25%. So I'm pretty certain I should be able to gain a decent fps boost overall. Plus having more than 1gb of graphics ram will let me move away from the grubby low setting on textures. So I'm considering picking up a 2nd hand 970 for around £130. I know I'll have a bunch of performance unused, but at the same time it should also be a massive upgrade and while I may bottleneck on cpu/ram I feel like it'll be a huge improvement on my current bottleneck that is the 560ti. After checking the specs it's appears that it'll use less watts than my 560ti and I've checked that I've got enough graphics card plugs on the psu, so in theory it should replace it no problem. I'd consider something less powerful like a 960 or 1050, but both of those are half the performance for little or no cash savings. I honestly can't think of a good reason not to get a 970 over the rest given my particular situation. I figure this would give my rig one final hurrah until I can afford to replace the entire thing. I was also hoping that since the 970 has x264 support there might be a way to speed up my encoding time? Or is that strictly cpu? Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 15:19
|
|
|
Blinkz0rz posted:I'm interested in moving away from a desktop footprint to a mini pc. Are there any out there that are worthwhile? I'm looking for an i7 with the "best" integrated graphics I can find.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 15:36
|
|
|
ETPC posted:Old edits: I might get rid of the wi-fi adapter because I would ideally never use it. How come that isn't built into motherboards nowadays? Also, the UPS here looks like a power surge monitor and not a surge protector/power brick like I'm used to. I've honestly never used a UPS before but was told they are pretty important now? WiFi is built in to certain motherboards. Normally, you pick the motherboard with the features that you want, so I'm not sure why you picked the Maximus IX Hero if you actually wanted onboard wifi. The Strix Z270E and Maximus IX Code has wifi. As for UPS', they're good for power outages so you can safely shutdown your computer without losing work. You have to be careful if you're getting a UPS that has simulated sine waves instead of pure sine waves as a lot of modern power supplies will immediately shutdown if they detect non-pure sine waves, making the UPS useless. I'd say you don't really need it, but do make sure to get a good power brick with surge protection. To critique your picks here: CPU Cooler: You picked a slim and high compatibility CPU cooler, yet you picked low profile RAM. I'd actually spend more here and get the best air cooler out there, the Noctua D15 Motherboard: Seems like you actually need WiFi, so I'd change this to the Asus STRIX Z270E Memory: Not much complaints here. If you don't mind moving up to DDR4-3200 and CAS 14 RAM, there are some options out there, but not necessarily worth the $60 CAD jump. 32GB is good to get now because if you ever need more in the future, you'll probably end up paying more getting another 16GB kit or go through the hassle of re-selling a 16GB kit to get a 32GB matching kit. Storage: If you were going all out, I'd recommend an NVMe drive, but if you really need a 1 TB SSD then those drives are pretty drat expensive right now. The 850 Evo is still a solid choice I guess. As for the 6TB drives, I don't pay much attention to mechanical drives anymore and have no recommendations. Headphones: I have other audiophile recommendations here, but none of them are on sale right now. That headset is pretty decent though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 16:56
|
|
|
Is there a good reseller or website to buy used CPUs from? I want to upgrade my 1155 motherboard to the max it can support, which is a 3770k from a 2500k. However, everyone on eBay wants 250+ for it 
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 18:27
|
|
|
There are a lot of other people going through the same thought process that you are, so the 3770K retains a lot of value. This goes for top-end Intel CPUs of every generation; check out the prices on i7-970s and even to a lesser extent Q9650s. What are you hoping to gain out of the upgrade - HT or overclockability? I didn't think that Ivy Bridge had much of an IPC gain over Sandy since it's mostly just a 22nm die shrink, and it's kind of hit and miss on overclocking higher I think partly due to the transition from solder to a less solid TIM under the heatspreader.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 18:32
|
|
|
Eletriarnation posted:There are a lot of other people going through the same thought process that you are, so the 3770K retains a lot of value. This goes for top-end Intel CPUs of every generation; check out the prices on i7-970s and even to a lesser extent Q9650s. HT would be nice as I've been using my 2500k as my workstation/gaming PC/media server, and have been noticing a lack of threads if I have a lot of stuff going on. If I have VS2015, TFS2013, SQL Server, and other work stuff going, and someone wants to stream from my PC, it'll get close to using all of my CPU. I figure I can put my 2500k to work as solely a media server/living room emulator, and beef up my workstation at the same time without spending too much (or so I thought).
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 18:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 22:10 |
|
|
WanderingKid posted:Kinda hard to tell with so little information. Whats core voltage? Whats max core and package temperature shortly before it blackscreens? Does it always blackscreen or does it sometimes BSOD? If so, what is the bugcheck name? I have the voltage set to 1.345, same as in this video, and an OC of 4.5Ghz. As for core temps, should I use HWmonitor? Yes, it always blackscreens not once was there ever a BSOD. How do I look for a bugcheck name?
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2017 19:23
|
|