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He's a cutie. Are you going to train him to hunt?
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Oct 3, 2016 20:19
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No, the plan is to possibly start doing some agility for fun and to hopefully have a running partner as well.
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Oct 3, 2016 22:38
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My puppy goes crazy for cat food which we unfortunately free feed. Putting it up high just causes the pup to get worked up and try to reach it. Thinking about getting a covered litter box to put the cat food into so that the puppy can't reach it. Anyone have any experience with this and have a better idea?
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Oct 4, 2016 04:56
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Can anyone recommend a good rescue or shelter in the Southern California/Orange County area? Looking to adopt a big lazy friend who gets along with cats and small dogs.
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Oct 4, 2016 08:40
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cougar cub posted:My puppy goes crazy for cat food which we unfortunately free feed. Putting it up high just causes the pup to get worked up and try to reach it. Thinking about getting a covered litter box to put the cat food into so that the puppy can't reach it. Anyone have any experience with this and have a better idea? I keep the cat stuff on the second floor which is a no-dog zone, not sure how that would work in a 1 story.
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Oct 4, 2016 17:51
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beergod posted:Can anyone recommend a good rescue or shelter in the Southern California/Orange County area? Looking to adopt a big lazy friend who gets along with cats and small dogs. You could try looking up a greyhound rescue. They are the laziest dogs imaginable and moderately big. Usually get along with cats after a little bit of adjustment.
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Oct 4, 2016 17:54
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bamhand posted:You could try looking up a greyhound rescue. They are the laziest dogs imaginable and moderately big. Usually get along with cats after a little bit of adjustment. And there's a dedicated greyhound thread. My grandparents adopted one after their last dog passed away, and last time I visited the dog was sprawled out on the couch with their cat napping on top.
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Oct 4, 2016 20:03
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beergod posted:Can anyone recommend a good rescue or shelter in the Southern California/Orange County area? Looking to adopt a big lazy friend who gets along with cats and small dogs. There's a hell of a lot of them.. Barks of Love, Labradors and Friends, Paw Prints in the Sand, GRFF, Best Friends in LA, downtown dog rescue... are just a few that come to mind. I think rescue is the right way to go to find one with less trouble that will be known whether or not it gets along with small dogs/cats, and it's usually possible to do meet and greets with resident animals first and f you do return it to a rescue not a shelter it won't immediately go on a kill list. As far as good shelter.... well I'd say only a few are good, most public funded/run are terrible, but I got my dog from OC shelter. Mission Viejo has much nicer facilities as does the Irvine shelter. Humane Society in HB too. If you want to save a dog from death row i suggest Downey (SEACCA), Lancaster, San Bernardino city or Carson. If you adopt from a rescue not a shelter you're still making room for a dog to come out of shelter into rescue so A+ either way!
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Oct 4, 2016 23:16
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Probably more of a rabbit question but here goes - Noodle has killed 2 rabbits this week, would a bell on her collar prevent that? I don't have an easy way to fence the rabbits out and they don't seem to learn. Our house is sideways on our lot so you can't see the backyard from the door and the rabbits don't get any warning before she speeds around the corner. We are working on her independence (she has separation anxiety) so I don't want to accompany her outside every time she goes. Any ideas? Killer Noodle 
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Oct 5, 2016 01:03
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Shes just doing her job not that it's what you want her to be doing. Those little dogs are always killers (at least what a lot of those breeds were originally intended to do). One of my good friends wives was pissed and horrified when her corgi would kill basically any rodent, squirrel, rabbit or mole in the yard. A bell might be a good start but my childhood cat still figured out how to kill lots of things with a bell and no front claws. Some dogs are crazy stealthy and just good at it. Try some interaction while you're outside, work on some mental stimulation. Create some games or do some agility training. Unsupervised dogs are rarely bored, especially with separation anxiety. They'll find something to do and living things are the best play things.
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Oct 5, 2016 04:37
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cougar cub posted:My puppy goes crazy for cat food which we unfortunately free feed. Putting it up high just causes the pup to get worked up and try to reach it. Thinking about getting a covered litter box to put the cat food into so that the puppy can't reach it. Anyone have any experience with this and have a better idea? My old dog was crazy for food, so we transitioned the cats from free feeding to 2x meals a day, and used a baby gate between the kitchen and bathroom(but any room could work). If you dont want to go to meals(both my cats had been free fed since being kittens and transitioned just fine), you could just try the baby gate method, possibly in combo with keeping it out of sight/on a higher surface. They sell tall gates with doors built in too, since it's an airdale and all
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Oct 5, 2016 05:09
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Verman posted:Shes just doing her job not that it's what you want her to be doing. It's not that I am upset with her prey drive, she's a good hunter and that's just the dog she is. It's just that the rabbits are so completely stupid and keep coming in the yard. When Noodle catches one it's always within one minute of going outside. Short of me going out before her and trying to scare them off for the rest of Noodle's life, I was hoping for suggestions.
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Oct 5, 2016 05:38
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Verman posted:Shes just doing her job not that it's what you want her to be doing. Those little dogs are always killers (at least what a lot of those breeds were originally intended to do). One of my good friends wives was pissed and horrified when her corgi would kill basically any rodent, squirrel, rabbit or mole in the yard. Maybe something like this? http://www.lowes.com/pd/Liquid-Fence-Quart-Ready-to-Use-Deer-and-Rabbit-Repellent/3010842 there are some other repellents that are sonic waves or something too, not sure if they work either. Maybe you could set up live traps to lure and catch the rabbits, and release them elsewhere, but you know they'll probably keep coming anyway cuz you know, rabbits, and they're maybe not dumb enough to keep coming into the traps if they see them go off. Maybe.
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Oct 5, 2016 07:19
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pizzadog posted:There's a hell of a lot of them.. Barks of Love, Labradors and Friends, Paw Prints in the Sand, GRFF, Best Friends in LA, downtown dog rescue... are just a few that come to mind. I think rescue is the right way to go to find one with less trouble that will be known whether or not it gets along with small dogs/cats, and it's usually possible to do meet and greets with resident animals first and f you do return it to a rescue not a shelter it won't immediately go on a kill list. As far as good shelter.... well I'd say only a few are good, most public funded/run are terrible, but I got my dog from OC shelter. Mission Viejo has much nicer facilities as does the Irvine shelter. Humane Society in HB too. If you want to save a dog from death row i suggest Downey (SEACCA), Lancaster, San Bernardino city or Carson. If you adopt from a rescue not a shelter you're still making room for a dog to come out of shelter into rescue so A+ either way! Thanks very much for this. I saw a cool and good schnauzer mix and greyhounds sound cool so I put in a few applications. I will post pics soon.
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Oct 5, 2016 07:34
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pizzadog posted:Maybe something like this? http://www.lowes.com/pd/Liquid-Fence-Quart-Ready-to-Use-Deer-and-Rabbit-Repellent/3010842 I'll give this a try, thanks!
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Oct 5, 2016 15:12
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Fortunately my dog prefers to just try to inhale chipmunks from inside their burrows but we did have a rabbiter once, he was very good at it. The most incompetent dog at any other time but he would go into stealthmode and kill rabbits and ducks
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Oct 5, 2016 15:49
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Trip report about vinyl window blocking: It works well, if she hears a dog coming she'll run to the window and try and look out and get shut down, even when the window is cracked like it is she will just sit there and look at the dog. EXCEPT when this one specific corgi comes by where she goes crazy and tries to bark at it likes she's defending territory. Is there anything I can do about it? I've been giving her a treat or two when she just sits there without barking when a dog goes by and she looks at me. She likes literally every dog shes ever met except that specific one. Tenchrono fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Oct 7, 2016 |
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Oct 7, 2016 14:21
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FAT CURES MUSCLES posted:Trip report about vinyl window blocking: ..... close the window and crack the tops? 
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Oct 7, 2016 14:35
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You can try redirecting her whenever that starts. Just go for sit or something else simple. Click and command and get her attention back on you. Worked very well for my dog inside the house. Outside on walks is a work in progress though.
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Oct 7, 2016 14:40
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This is the thread for me because I am definitely a dipshit. Three-month old wheaten terrier that for the most part has been pretty good, but she has always been a little mouthy and it has only gotten worse in the past few weeks. I've tried the recommendations from a few pages back - yelping, redirecting to a toy, etc. - but she has become indifferent to my (often very real) cries of pain, and while she might go to a toy at first, she really prefers to chew on hands, which makes attaching her harness or getting her leash on really enjoyable. Playing inside or when walking outside she'll often now nip at my legs, which she hadn't done before, so I've got bite marks on my shins too and holes in my pants where her teeth catch. A bad time all around. She's very sweet and is not aggressive otherwise, good with other dogs, etc. But this has become a problem since my hands are now always torn to poo poo, and I don't have enough money to buy new pairs of pants every week. Worse still it's hugely frustrating and makes me kind of hate this little pup that I otherwise adore. So I'm frustrated and not sure what to do other than to just keep doing what people have already recommended, but it just doesn't seem to be working and I'm out of bandaids. Could some of this be coming simply from pent up energy? I've been walking her multiple times a day but have been reluctant to really go crazy with her running around because she's had a persistent respiratory infection since I brought her home (thank you, breeder: "no big deal, will pass soon"). She's also a bit worse in the morning after having slept all night, which I am thinking maybe means she just can't properly control her energy at this point. Anyway I am at a loss, puppy thread.
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Oct 8, 2016 15:22
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It sounds like she just hasn't learned how much bite force is appropriate while playing. This is a thing that puppies learn from their littermates and mother. This is a time when discipline is okay! Stuff like a firm grab of the scruff around the top of the neck/base of the skull when she starts. Since redirection isn't working you pretty much just have to shut it down. In general, I suggest you look into a gentle leader. You basically leave it on throughout the day and take it off at bedtime for a week. A lot of people will think it's a muzzle but it's not, the dog can eat and bite and everything with it but it has a surprising effect. When I was a baby my parents found that it completely changed the very fluffy mystery mutt they bought from an Amish dry goods store to the point that she would actually listen. Seriously a mystery dog, the mother was a shepherd of some kind but she was kept locked in a rather tall enclosure and not bred so whatever knocked her up was either a crafty wild animal or Zeus being a weirdo
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Oct 8, 2016 16:14
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Meet Tarkus!  He's 18 weeks old, Australian Shepherd/Foxhound mix with lots of energy. We got him from a rescue at 9 weeks. We're having the usual issues with biting and nipping as well as some minor training/behavioral stuff but a few weeks ago we noticed something more concerning. He started Puppy Kindergarten and he refuses to join in social time with the other dogs. If another puppy comes near him he either runs away or goes completely submissive. At his most recent class yesterday, even the Yorkshire that weighs about 4 ounces sent him scurrying away. He also has some pretty severe separation anxieties, to the point of planting himself flat in front of doors so you can't leave. He's also showing signs of minor aggression towards my step son, even though otherwise he loves people. I love my pup and it's killing me to see him struggling so much. He's incredibly smart and I know he can do better but we have no idea which issue to tackle first. 
BAGS FLY AT NOON fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Oct 10, 2016 |
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Oct 10, 2016 20:36
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I have a 6 year old shelter dog so no behavioral history. I'm going to visit my sister and 14mo old nephew in a few weeks for a long weekend, and want to take the dog with me. How do i make sure everyone keeps their blood inside them? My sister already has a dog, and the dog is very patient with the kid, but he's at the no boundaries stage. I'd like to ideally have everyone get along, and enjoy taking my dog on a road trip with me as well. Tips/thoughts? Things I know she (my dog) is defensive over: High value treats (rawhide, bacon, etc) not so much her food (i have two cats and they figured their poo poo out a while ago) Being on a couch/chair it becomes her nest/i'm sleeping fuckoff /growl to some people (she has snarl/snapped but no contact to one person over this in the year+ i've had her). for me it s a roll over and pet my belly. Help? Doge tax:  
toplitzin fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Oct 10, 2016 |
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Oct 10, 2016 23:10
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Guy I have a question about my wee puppy. Little Archer is 3 months old, we've had him for 4 weeks, and it's going really well in terms of him not yapping, begging for food, housetraining etc. But his teething is getting a bit fierce as he's getting bigger. Is it reasonable to expect him to understand the distinction between gentle 'mouthing' and teething too hard, or am I just going to have to stop him doing anything? At the moment I'm just doing a loud high Ow! when he's too rough, and clearly calmly withdrawing affection and attention for a minute or so, but that doesn't seem to be working.
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Oct 11, 2016 10:41
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Vitamin P posted:Guy I have a question about my wee puppy. Little Archer is 3 months old, we've had him for 4 weeks, and it's going really well in terms of him not yapping, begging for food, housetraining etc. But his teething is getting a bit fierce as he's getting bigger. Is it reasonable to expect him to understand the distinction between gentle 'mouthing' and teething too hard, or am I just going to have to stop him doing anything? Stop him doing anything. No teeth on skin. Granted, our Great Dane now mouths a lot and is super gentle, but when we were initially training, it was 'no teeth on skin'.
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Oct 11, 2016 19:11
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We gave ours a firm no, turned our attention away from him then replaced whatever he was chewing (my legs/shoe etc) with an appropriate toy and gave him praise. He's 1 year old now and only chews and mouths toys occasionally around the house. He's mouthy every now and then when paying with other dogs but he's got a really soft mouth, mostly like he's playing mouth tag which I've noticed a lot with other pointers. With Stanley it was definitely a puppy phase but all dogs and breeds are different.
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Oct 11, 2016 19:23
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Any reason I should crate train the pooch now that she's doing better with her anxiety and has house training on point? She's content to hang out on the couch or look out the window from my bed, so I don't see much benefit from trying to overcome the dyed in the wool fear/hatred of crates. Fuckface update: Bastard is staying with Mrs. Warbird and apparently snuck some human food he wasn't supposed to and has been making GBS threads and vomiting everywhere for a couple of days now. Thankfully he's not my problem anymore. Edit - Fuckface is fine as per the vet. He did however piss and projectile poo poo in her car. So whoo. In unrelated news, a lady's pit mix got aggressive in the park and I got grazed through the jeans by the fellow. Not a deliberate bite, just got in the way; which was what I was trying to do. No blood drawn, but I'm a bit scraped up. I'm nearly certain he's up to date on his shots, and I'm not particularly worried about it. Is there anything I may want to consider/do? I'm not sure I've ever been nipped by a dog that wasn't my own. Warbird fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Oct 12, 2016 |
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Oct 11, 2016 21:34
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I started writing up dog bite information then realized I was reinventing the wheel. I'm a nurse and the Mayo Clinic is my go-to for any health information on basically anything. They have trusted, well written, up-to-date articles. http://www.mayoclinic.org/first-aid/first-aid-animal-bites/basics/art-20056591 tldr: #1 Tetanus vaccine (If your last vaccine was more than 10 years, get the vaccine again. If it has been more than 5 years, I'd still recommend getting it again. Tetanus (aka LockJaw) is seriously horrible stuff. Just get a shot in your arm and you'll be golden.) #2 Watch out for infection. Clean with soap and water daily. Put a dressing/bandaid on the area is possibility of getting dirty or may rub against your pants. P.S. If you aren't certain when you had your Tetanus last, call your doctor's office to see if they have the information. If you can't find the information still, it won't hurt you to get it again. Any urgent care or probably even the minute-clinics at Walgreens or the like could give you the vaccine. P.P.S. Take a picture of the bite so if it starts worsening, you can have a "before" and "after" to show a doctor. Ferryll fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Oct 12, 2016 |
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Oct 12, 2016 05:54
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Warbird posted:Any reason I should crate train the pooch now that she's doing better with her anxiety and has house training on point? She's content to hang out on the couch or look out the window from my bed, so I don't see much benefit from trying to overcome the dyed in the wool fear/hatred of crates. One reason to consider keeping up with getting her at least comfortable with a crate, even if you chose not to do it daily, is for the sake of vet visits.
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Oct 12, 2016 07:55
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it also makes unattended pets, and travel a lot easier on your mind.
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Oct 12, 2016 12:54
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Coming from a dog owner whose dog is not a fan of a crate ... if your dog even shows a remote sign of being comfortable in crates,foster that behavior and encourage them to take the crate as their home as it will only benefit you later on. Vet visits, air travel, boarding, safer travel in your car, staying home alone, emergencies etc. Honestly if my dog was cool hanging out in a crate, my life would be 10x easier.
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Oct 12, 2016 18:21
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We adopted a 3 month old pit mix a couple of weeks ago. She's got a ton of energy, and is wearing my rear end out, but I know that is normal for pups. I've got a couple of questions for you guys: 1) Biting - This dog has iron jaws - when she clamps down, it's hard and painful. I've been told everything from "calmly go limp and wait for her to let go" which is difficult to do when you're stuck in a bear trap, to "get up and walk away," at which point she just follows and bites feet, clothes, whatever, in an effort to continue to play. We've also tried the "YIP" technique, which didn't last too long, as she just got more riled up, and will bite the poo poo out of you. She also seems to like to bite the hand that plays with her, as I'll be holding her rope and tugging, when all of a sudden, my hand becomes a viable target. It's not constant, and happens more around play (of course) or "I just woke up and have tons of energy!!!" Interestingly, we took her to puppy socialization, and I didn't notice her bite another dog once, so it seems to be just with us. Any tips? 2) Potty training - I know puppies have a finite space to store waste (but my God, where does all that poop come from?) She's pretty good about going when I take her out (though she will only go in our yard, and not on walks, which is odd) but it seems like I'm taking her out a lot at night, and I haven't had any luck stretching the intervals out. Due to our schedules, my wife and I usually go to bed around 9pm. The pup has been out multiple times prior to this, whether immediately after eating or drinking, to right after playing. I would think she'd be empty, but this is apparently not the case - at 11pm, she usually whines, so we go out for a pee. Then at around 1 am. Then around 3am (often with a poop as well.) Then at 5am, right before breakfast. Then we start the day. Should I just shoot for additional 15 minute increments, or should I just expect to wait until she gets older and her ability to hold it increases? She's out first puppy in like 14 years, and I vaguely remember our other dogs being trained pretty drat quickly (though I know some take longer than others.) 2a) Bonus potty training question - She's not giving any indication of having to go out during normal daily activities, other than me catching her starting to sniff around. Our back door (the one she goes out) is in the kitchen, but we can't see it from the living area, so if she would go to the door (which she doesn't) we wouldn't be able to see her anyway. I did order a doggie door bell from Amazon, but I have to wait until Saturday for that training to start. Anyone have any tips on using this method? 
berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Oct 13, 2016 |
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Oct 13, 2016 19:01
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Rather than just get up and walk away in which your legs are still a target etc, I prefer a baby gated room timeout. For the mouthing, I'd shove other toys in her mouth, if she is going for your hands not the toy use more exciting toys that are further from your hands - Invincible squeaker snake is a good one, really long multiple knotted ropey toys, also cheapo flirt pole made by kong you can find in many stores would help. There's no toy my pit goes more batshit over than flirt poles, personally, so that should work to take attention off your limbs. I'm not too sure about the potty training thing, that does seem like too often at night - you should be cutting water off nearing bedtime, then one last late-night potty break til she pees, then in the crate overnight (or wherever she sleeps) without access to water. Barring that, maybe a vet visit for a UTI? I used the pebblesmart doorbell and my pit mix didn't get housetraining down until we started using it paired with treats in the bell/after peeing. Also a special post pee housebreaking fun tug toy. Then after she was about a year old she used the doorbell to just go outside and chase squirrels and tree rats instead of peeing so once she was housebroken we stopped using it. Smart rear end. Also she's very cute and similar looking to my dog but with more white - I love her speckly nose.
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Oct 13, 2016 22:24
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Ok, 8 week old female German Shepherd. We got a puppy because we have another dog, two cats and 4 chickens. The other dog is a 4 year old English Pointer. So far, young cat is wary, older cat is bored, chickens are fearless, and putting her in her place, and the sweet, submissive dog is crazy scared, won't get near her, and growls and snaps when he is near her. Any suggestions for getting the coward dog to accept the puppy? We're on day one, so I'm sure time will be a factor, but don't want to make any initial mistakes, either.
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Oct 15, 2016 19:39
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torgeaux posted:Ok, 8 week old female German Shepherd. We got a puppy because we have another dog, two cats and 4 chickens. The other dog is a 4 year old English Pointer. So far, young cat is wary, older cat is bored, chickens are fearless, and putting her in her place, and the sweet, submissive dog is crazy scared, won't get near her, and growls and snaps when he is near her. I assume you aren't following the proper protocol for slow introduction and integration of a new puppy into the household, as if you were the dog wouldn't have access to snap at her. She should be given more space probably before she's even growling at the new puppy. Dial it back and separate, reintroduce from zero, and follow this guide. Reintroduce them by scents and with barriers before face to face occurs OFF home property, use positive associations with each other. Avoid going too fast. Don't punish the dog for growling or snapping - she's probably telling you before she even growls she wants nothing to do with the puppy with body language. http://www.petmd.com/dog/training/evr_introducing_a_new_dog_to_a_resident_dog pizzadog fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Oct 15, 2016 |
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Oct 15, 2016 20:04
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I am a dipshit who adopted an adult shelter dog today. She's spayed, up to date on shots, walks well on a leash, other cool stuff. I've got her wellness exam scheduled. We're signed up for the next obedience class that starts in about a week and a half, with the trainer recommended by the shelter. I've got two cats so the shelter did a cat test where they brought her into the room with a whole bunch of cats wandering around. She paid absolutely no attention to any of the cats in that room, even when one swatted her tail. She was doing a pretty good job ignoring my cats for a while after we got home, until I fed her dinner and my orange rear end in a top hat cat shoved his stupid face in her bowl, then she barked at him. She was doing well rocking out on the couch next to me and watching the cats, but my black cat wanted to jump up next to her and hiss, then smack her in the face when she got barked at. I don't think she barked again after the smack but she did growl at the black cat when the cat sat in the middle of the room and glared. Dog's got her own bedroom so that's where she is now. There has been a little bit of intermittent quiet whining. It took about a minute of putting her to bed before cats reclaimed the rest of the house and my lap. She spent a little while in her room while I took a shower and she did fine but she seemed ridiculously happy to see me after only being by herself for 15 minutes or so. I gave her a bath and she wasn't thrilled with it but was tolerant. I don't I did a very good job though so we might try again tomorrow. I think I've got the situation under a reasonable amount of control but I am a dipshit who has never owned a dog before. I don't really have any questions but if I say something incredibly stupid, please let me know. I think the biggest thing I want to avoid is advice from people with dogs that I think are terrible or annoying.
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Oct 16, 2016 05:37
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GoodBee posted:I am a dipshit who adopted an adult shelter dog today. Cats are assholes - I try to intervene before my dog has to defend herself from the cats (because she can kill them, if she wanted to, but the cats can just like blind her probably but try telling them that). Put them in another place when she gets dinner/breakfast and don't leave food out all the time. It might help to do a slower introduction to the home - even though she was tested with cats, the cats haven't been acquainted with dogs have they? They have to learn dogs are pretty okay if you don't poke them first too. pizzadog fucked around with this message at 08:21 on Oct 16, 2016 |
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Oct 16, 2016 08:14
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She's doing a little bit of food guarding/territorial behavior. These are not good things but this sort of unease is fairly normal since it's a new environment. This is the sort of thing to make sure the trainer helps you with though! That said, until you can get the trainer's advice on these things I would definitely feed her away from the cats.
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Oct 16, 2016 16:24
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Cats are assholes. I'm going to try to get them to interact or anything. Today, dog just wants to lie next to me on the couch and watch some Netflix. Cats are walking around doing cats stuff and we're going to ignore them.Shugojin posted:She's doing a little bit of food guarding/territorial behavior. I hear this is fairly common with shelter dogs. I'll bring it up with the trainer. Now, she doesn't seem too fond of being alone in her room. I put her to bed last night and she started whining and barking a little after about an hour. I did go check on her and turned off all the lights. After that, she did pretty good all night. I woke up early to give her breakfast and a short walk this morning, like I would do on a work day. Then I put her back in her room and went back to sleep for a bit. She'd bark for a few minutes ever hour or hour and a half. I don't know which would be worse in the short term, continue putting her in her room and have her bark because she's lonely, or getting her a crate and have her bark at the cats because they are assholes. I could get a crate today and see how she does with it. Is the worse that could probably happen is I have a crate I don't use?
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Oct 16, 2016 18:42
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GoodBee posted:I don't know which would be worse in the short term, continue putting her in her room and have her bark because she's lonely, or getting her a crate and have her bark at the cats because they are assholes. I could get a crate today and see how she does with it. Is the worse that could probably happen is I have a crate I don't use? For seemingly mild separation anxiety, I'd do crate training from scratch, playing crate games, letting her get to know the crate as a safe space of comfort, not forcing her to stay in that until she goes to lay in it by herself to rest when she's comfortable. It may help her to have a den like space especially if you cover it with a blanket, but she can see out the front to see what's going on in the house. You can also just do an expen in the house in a good area if you have that and she can't reasonably get over the expen walls. pizzadog fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Oct 17, 2016 |
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Oct 17, 2016 01:38
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