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Most of the cheapest MF adapters are already full frame because they're literally just a metal tube with a mount on each end.
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Jul 5, 2014 17:25
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Elliotw2 posted:Most of the cheapest MF adapters are already full frame because they're literally just a metal tube with a mount on each end. I already have a cheapo EF-FE adapter, but you can only use them at wide open aperture. I'm looking at getting the Viltrox II adapter. Seems to be the right balance of factors.
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Jul 5, 2014 17:36
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Adapters you say? A Metabones FD->X adapter and a Canon FD 300mm f/4L just arrived on my doorstep...on the same day! Metabones makes a top-notch product. Very well built. It was a bit of a puzzle to get the 300mm installed but once on it's very solid. Still not entirely certain what the "on" and "off" ring does on the adapter though...? Nice looking setup though:  Manual everything is a bit of a challenge and 300mm is probably the longest I'd go (handheld) on a lens with no IS. Optically, the FD 300mm f/4L is fantastic. Coupled with the X-T1 the results are pretty good. This is literally the third image I took with the combo:  DSCF0962.jpg by Brian.M.K, on FlickrNow, who here knows where to get 48mm drop-in filters? Rot fucked around with this message at 09:51 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 00:49
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Is lightroom 4.4 supposed to be able to import RAF from an X-T1? It keeps bombing on me and telling me the raw converter aint up to snuff, but I thought x.4 was capable. Do I need to upgrade to 5.4 or am I loving something else up?
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Jul 7, 2014 04:40
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Doodarazumas posted:Is lightroom 4.4 supposed to be able to import RAF from an X-T1? It keeps bombing on me and telling me the raw converter aint up to snuff, but I thought x.4 was capable. Do I need to upgrade to 5.4 or am I loving something else up? Good question. Looking back, it appears that Lightroom only had support for the X-T1 as recent as 5.4. But apparently it's had support for the x-trans sensor since 4.4? And support for the X-E2 (which has the same sensor as the X-T1) since...5.3? Edit: I think the short answer is that you need to upgrade LR
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Jul 7, 2014 05:05
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Doodarazumas posted:Is lightroom 4.4 supposed to be able to import RAF from an X-T1? It keeps bombing on me and telling me the raw converter aint up to snuff, but I thought x.4 was capable. Do I need to upgrade to 5.4 or am I loving something else up? You need 5.4 The original and current X-Trans sensors are very different.
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Jul 7, 2014 05:07
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Eyeing the X100S as a (very special and very expensive) gift for a close friend who is permanently leaving the country. I know there have been rumors of an X100T floating around, but is there a general idea of when it might hit? Looks like the original X100 was early 2011 and the X100S was early 2013. When did X100S rumors starting popping up?
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Jul 7, 2014 09:36
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grack posted:You need 5.4 No they aren't. You can get recognizing the files by editing the exif to claim it's an XE1 or whatever 4. 4 supports. The only real problem being that LR didn't get good with xtrans sensors until very recently so it will work but probably suck.
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Jul 7, 2014 13:23
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Yeah if you're working with X-Trans in LR you gotta update to 5.4 because its de-mosaicing prior to that was real bad.
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Jul 7, 2014 15:48
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The demosaicing still isn't great. But there are some presets that make it better. ACR not sucking for X-Trans is basically the last thing needed to make Fuji the best game in town, in my opinion.
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Jul 7, 2014 16:27
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bobfather posted:The demosaicing still isn't great. But there are some presets that make it better. ACR not sucking for X-Trans is basically the last thing needed to make Fuji the best game in town, in my opinion. I recently compared all the major .RAF processors for windows(PhotoNinja, LR 5.4, CPOne Pro), and found the differences to be mostly undetectable, and certainly not worth giving up LR's interface for. I do wish they would make a windows port of Iridient, though.
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Jul 7, 2014 18:21
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OK. I'm not going to mess with editing exifs to trick it, so it's upgrade time for me. Thanks though, it was surprisingly difficult to find a straight answer for that question.
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Jul 7, 2014 18:31
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Doodarazumas posted:Is lightroom 4.4 supposed to be able to import RAF from an X-T1? It keeps bombing on me and telling me the raw converter aint up to snuff, but I thought x.4 was capable. Do I need to upgrade to 5.4 or am I loving something else up? You need to upgrade, period. Plus its the radial tool in LR5.x is tits. Fuckin' tits.
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Jul 7, 2014 18:37
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Got my A7S today thanks to the good folks at The Camera Store (the guys that put out the review videos with Chris and Jordan). It's a damned solid piece of machinery, much heavier and more massive-feeling than my 5N. As expected, the high ISO performance is at least two or three stops better than the 5N, based on JPGs with in-camera noise reduction. Once DxO brings in A7S support (should be any day now), the advantage over the 5N will probably grow wider. It's kind of weird getting used to using an eye-level viewfinder again after shooting with a screen on the 5N for so long. The EVF on the A7S is great. Very little lag unless you're in lower light where the shutter speeds drop and thus the screen refresh rate. It's actually a bit jarring going from looking through the EVF to real life outside the camera because the EVF is brighter than reality in lower light. The back screen is pretty good, but doesn't flip downwards as much as the 5N. The AF is darned near heroic. It's not lightning fast, but it locks on solid in lighting conditions where cameras have no business locking on and frankly, I'd rather have solid focus lock than fast focus lock that takes 10 tries to get it right if at all. Forget about continuous AF. It's ridiculous. You half-press the shutter button and the camera does this AF rumba, constantly chugging back and forth as opposed to a phase detect-style of continuous focus where it follows the subject more smoothly as it moves. The camera is customizable to a ridiculous degree. Almost every button can be configured and reconfigured a ton of ways. It looks like it'll take a few months before I have everything settled down exactly how I want it. One thing I'm working on figuring out is how to customize what information to show on the screen. Right now, it's kind of a choice between too much information and not enough. I want to get it down to displaying the settings I care about the most, not what video codec I'm using or picture style or whatever. It's one of those things where the emphasis on video kind of drags down the photography aspect of it in that if you don't ever plan on using the A7S for video, there's a lot of video-related stuff that sort of gets in the way. That said, if you're confident in your settings, the more minimalist display options will serve just fine. One big negative I'm seeing so far in the short time I've had the camera is that it eats batteries like there's no tomorrow compared to the 5N. That probably explains why the camera comes with two batteries instead of the usual one. Watching the battery meter is like watching the gas gauge on a big block V8. You'll definitely want to hit up eBay for a bunch of cheap third party batteries if you get this camera. Another thing is that half the controls seem to be designed for two-handed operation as opposed to the 5N where I could do almost everything with one hand (a very important factor when photographing while drinking). Especially infuriating is the menu button on the upper left hand corner of the camera. Fortunately, there are at least two or three ways to circumvent this for more frequently changed settings like the customizable buttons, the tiled menu and the alternate display screen with all the common settings on it for when you want to use just the EVF. I tried the 16mm f/2.8 pancake lens on it and it vignettes around the edges. I took off the shroud on the back of the lens and it almost covers the whole frame, just some vignetting at the corners and noticeable loss of sharpness at the edges of the frame, but that's to be expected. I'll give it a go and see how it does in general use and concert photography. I have a feeling it won't matter so much with concert photos where the edges of the photo are often dark anyway. I'm hoping to get out to see a show this weekend to try out the A7S and see how it does. It will be interesting to see how it focuses on moving subjects in flashy lighting. I'm also interested to see how it might do with street photography at night. I bought this camera because I do the majority of my photography at night or in low light, so it seemed like the perfect camera for me. We'll see.
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Jul 9, 2014 23:03
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Rot posted:Still not entirely certain what the "on" and "off" ring does on the adapter though...? Howdy folks. For all you fools like me, I solved the mystery of the on-off ring on the FD Metabones adapter. It engages the auto aperture lever. Which I knew but didn't realize the significance: Turn this to "on" and the aperture will follow your setting. Set it to f/11 and you'll see what f/11 looks like in the EVF/LCD. Turned to "off", the lens will always sit at max aperture. Now you can be your own AF computer! Set desired aperture, focus @ wide open, switch adapter ring to "on" to return to set aperture, and shoot photos of your cat. Wee! The above is probably obvious to anyone with experience with lenses older than they are, but for the rest of you here's your chance to learn something. Still very happy with my Metabones adapter but I did find that it clicked when applying radial force (I'm slinging a 300mm around, mind). Looking closer at the adapter I found a few of the screws on the Fuji side were flush, while the others were countersunk. So I took a 8mm allen key and tightened the flush screws until the matched the others. Clinking went away. Then I went around all the screws and made sure they were properly torqued. These screws are pretty small and I bet would be easy to strip, if you were an rear end in a top hat and had stones for hands.
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Jul 9, 2014 23:24
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HPL posted:I'm hoping to get out to see a show this weekend to try out the A7S and see how it does. It will be interesting to see how it focuses on moving subjects in flashy lighting. I'm also interested to see how it might do with street photography at night. I bought this camera because I do the majority of my photography at night or in low light, so it seemed like the perfect camera for me. We'll see. Saw this Phillip Bloom video today about the A7S, its video of the low light performance....and looks pretty awesome.
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Jul 9, 2014 23:36
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Forgot to mention, unlike the A7/7R, the 7S comes with two batteries and a separate charger. That was a bit of a surprise for me because I was expecting one battery and no charger.
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Jul 12, 2014 01:31
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Lightroom and DxO just got support for the A7S. Just in time too. Shot a show last night. The camera performed wonderfully. The biggest gripe I have is that when you're using Auto ISO, the camera wants to hang on to 1/60 as long as it can before jumping up one step on the ISO, so I ended up with a few needlessly motion blurred shots. Sony really needs to put in a minimum shutter speed option. That said, the AF was very solid, even surprising me a few times with how it can get a lock on moving, backlit subjects in the dark. Like I said earlier, the AF is not fast, but it's reliable. The EVF is great and as long as shutter speeds didn't get too slow, the lag was minimal. I used the zebra option and it helped to avoid blown-out highlights or at least I could make better on-the-fly choices about which highlights to lose if it came to that. I shot in the range of ISO 12800 to 51200. 51200 is definitely usable, especially when processed with DxO's Prime noise reduction. 12800 is child's play. It's basically the equivalent of how we used to use 1600 about 5 years ago. I haven't had that much time to experiment, so it remains to be seen if 102400 is okay or not with good processing. The raw files are great. I can bring up shadows and bring down highlights way better than I ever could with the 5N. I would say you can reasonably recover a stop or two worth of highlight and shadow, which is very important when shooting with LED stage lights as you tend to get a lot of oversaturated colour highlights. Battery life in real-world use turned out better than I expected. One battery lasted me the whole show, with several hundred shots over a period of a few hours, which isn't too far off of what I got with the 5N. Still, there wasn't much left in the tank after that. Luckily, third party FW50 batteries are cheap. Carry spares, go out and shoot, and ignore the battery meter or you'll go crazy obsessing over it. So in short, the worst flaw I've found so far on the A7S is the 1/60 auto ISO thing. It should be easily correctable in firmware, but will Sony do it? I suspect not, given that they haven't fixed it in any of their other cameras.
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Jul 12, 2014 17:13
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It seems a lot of modern cameras love 1/60 speed. On my A7, I am used to shooting in Shutter priority mode with auto ISO when I use manual glass and I've found myself shooting that way with AF lenses now too. If the lighting is steady I go full M! So pro!
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Jul 12, 2014 17:29
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RustedChrome posted:It seems a lot of modern cameras love 1/60 speed. On my A7, I am used to shooting in Shutter priority mode with auto ISO when I use manual glass and I've found myself shooting that way with AF lenses now too. If the lighting is steady I go full M! So pro! The 1/60 thing is such a waste on the A7S though because there's almost no penalty for going up one ISO step until it gets really, really, really dark. I'd rather have a noisy shot than lose a shot to motion blur. It made sense back when you couldn't go higher than ISO 800 or else everything would go to poo poo. We have the technology to make life easier, so why not take advantage of it?
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Jul 12, 2014 17:36
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All of Sony's cameras are in love with 1/60, and it annoys basically everyone. It would be great if they pushed a firmware update, but I just don't see it happening.
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Jul 12, 2014 17:47
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I wish they did it like Nikon, where you can either pick a specific minimum or have it choose based on focal length with tuning for longer or shorter shutter.
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Jul 12, 2014 19:52
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powderific posted:I wish they did it like Nikon, where you can either pick a specific minimum or have it choose based on focal length with tuning for longer or shorter shutter.
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Jul 12, 2014 20:15
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HPL posted:The 1/60 thing is such a waste on the A7S though because there's almost no penalty for going up one ISO step until it gets really, really, really dark. I'd rather have a noisy shot than lose a shot to motion blur. It made sense back when you couldn't go higher than ISO 800 or else everything would go to poo poo. We have the technology to make life easier, so why not take advantage of it? Why not just shoot in shutter priority/manual at 1/100 or higher? Or use a strobe?
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Jul 12, 2014 21:06
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David Pratt posted:Why not just shoot in shutter priority/manual at 1/100 or higher? Or use a strobe? In aperture priority mode Nikons still jump back to 1/60 the second you put a strobe on the hotshoe or have the built-in in commander mode  (Or at least mine do, they may have changed this) I mean it's still easily adjusted for but kinda irritating.
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Jul 12, 2014 21:24
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evil_bunnY posted:It took quite a bit of bitching at Nikon for them to implement it, too. We had to complain to Fuji for a long time about that too.
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Jul 12, 2014 22:48
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1/60 is about the min for subjects trying to pose/stand still. I believe that's why it's so common.
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Jul 13, 2014 01:46
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TheAngryDrunk posted:1/60 is about the min for subjects trying to pose/stand still. I believe that's why it's so common. It's the minimum you shutter speed you can freehand hold a camera with no bracing required and not have to worry about motion blur coming from your end. Generally anything less requires a bracing stance.
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Jul 13, 2014 07:07
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Fart Car '97 posted:It's the minimum you shutter speed you can freehand hold a camera with no bracing required and not have to worry about motion blur coming from your end. Generally anything less requires a bracing stance. It's also the nearest to 1/focal length for an old film SLR with a 50mm lens. It's kinda annoying, but I can see how it became some kind of standard. Believe you me, you can get away with MUCH longer shutter speeds at 10-20mm. (Or at least, have fun shooting 1/60 at 300mm)
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Jul 13, 2014 07:18
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Here's the photos from the show. Nothing spectacular as I was still loving around with the camera most of the night. http://www.mikechow.com/Concerts-2014/Season-To-AttackGyrusEllice/
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Jul 13, 2014 08:27
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SoundMonkey posted:It's also the nearest to 1/focal length for an old film SLR with a 50mm lens. It's kinda annoying, but I can see how it became some kind of standard. It shouldn't be a standard. I set the min shutter speed to 1/125 on my Fuji's Auto ISO setting. IME this is the min shutter I can use to safely hand the camera to other people to take picture for me. Plus its the min speed I use with my 55-200mm IS lens. Basically the difference between 1/125 and 1/60 is that for former I can just review photos on a phone/tablet and upload them and for latter I have to zoom in on every photo to make sure its not blurry. That slow down the work flow a lot. So, just make it a customizable setting already.
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Jul 13, 2014 13:56
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whatever7 posted:It shouldn't be a standard. I set the min shutter speed to 1/125 on my Fuji's Auto ISO setting. IME this is the min shutter I can use to safely hand the camera to other people to take picture for me. Plus its the min speed I use with my 55-200mm IS lens. Basically the difference between 1/125 and 1/60 is that for former I can just review photos on a phone/tablet and upload them and for latter I have to zoom in on every photo to make sure its not blurry. That slow down the work flow a lot. You're god drat right it shouldn't be a standard, it just somehow became an (annoying) trend.
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Jul 13, 2014 21:29
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What mirrorless camera would you guys reccomend for the primary purpose of playing with old adapted lenses? Preferably something I could buy used from keh or adorama, etc.
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Jul 13, 2014 21:49
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The NEX series is the classic answer, since it still has the most configurable focus peaking, and auto-adapters for Sony Alpha and Canon EF mounts. Fuji has better actual photo options in their X series, and M4/3 tends to be a bit cheaper and lighter.
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Jul 13, 2014 21:53
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Elliotw2 posted:The NEX series is the classic answer, since it still has the most configurable focus peaking, and auto-adapters for Sony Alpha and Canon EF mounts. Fuji has better actual photo options in their X series, and M4/3 tends to be a bit cheaper and lighter. Well, m4/3 does have all those lovely old Leica lenses you can play with...
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Jul 13, 2014 22:04
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Really cheaper doesn't mean much, since you can get a NEX-5N or 3N for less than $200 used from KEH, or a basic original NEX-3 for $100. The big decider is if you want to ever use modern lenses, and if you want a 1.5x on Fuji or Sony or 2x on the M4/3 bodies.
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Jul 13, 2014 22:26
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M43 also has the not small advantage of in body image stabilization.
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Jul 13, 2014 23:07
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grack posted:M43 also has the not small advantage of in body image stabilization. Depending on the camera obviously.
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Jul 13, 2014 23:14
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Linedance posted:Well, m4/3 does have all those lovely old Leica lenses you can play with... They work fine on Fuji and NEX too. Plus the focal length doesn't get doubled on everything.
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Jul 14, 2014 00:04
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Standard answer is an used 5n or successors. Or you can just get a 5D mark I for slightly higher.
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Jul 14, 2014 00:16
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