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Sagebrush posted:this thread is now just a bunch of dads arguing about the thermostat Well I'm not paying to heat the outside, for chrissakes
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Mar 3, 2016 06:16
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This house has no thermostat, only suffering.
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Mar 3, 2016 08:11
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Shady Amish Terror posted:I...think you may have the universality of that sentiment reversed. To most people accustomed to a broad range of warm to cool climates in temperate zones, 68 is a drat near ideal house temperature. It would be a little cool for the temperature outside on a summer day most places, yes, and most people wouldn't be comfortable spending the day in their underwear at that temperature, but it's a perfectly fine house temperature. When you get used to 100+ degree days for a couple months at a time in the summer, a 20-30 degree drop to what others consider 'normal' makes you feel chilly. Same reason we northerners bust out the shorts and sandals at 50, because we've been in the 20's at best for five months so that seems loving balmy.  Baronjutter posted:I often forget how ridiculously energy intensive trying to build "civilization" in really hot or cold climates can be. People spending HUNDREDS a month on electricity just blows my mind. Are the buildings just built like poo poo? Wouldn't better insulation and design very quickly pay for its self in a matter of a few years with energy bills that insane? There's your issue. Much of the US, outside of a few spots on the west coast, have as much as a 100 degree swing between yearly highs and lows in F. Iowa for example runs average lows in the low teens (~-10C) in January to average highs in the high 80's (~30C) in August, with single day highs and lows as much as thirty degrees F. more extreme than either. You have a relatively small yearly swing, temperature wise. Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Mar 3, 2016 |
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Mar 3, 2016 08:11
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peanut posted:This house has no thermostat, only suffering. Your body is the thermostat in Japan. Auditory halucinations from the kerosene fumes will let you know the room is warm enough and you should open window. When you can no longer feel your fingers it is time to close the and window and start over. Don't bother with insulation, our traditional tradesmen assure us that it will cause the house to rot.
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Mar 3, 2016 08:26
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Baronjutter posted:
I would describe them as "cooling bills". My power bill is hilariously small in the winter even with electric heat. therobit posted:Your body is the thermostat in Japan. Auditory halucinations from the kerosene fumes will let you know the room is warm enough and you should open window. When you can no longer feel your fingers it is time to close the and window and start over. Don't bother with insulation, our traditional tradesmen assure us that it will cause the house to rot. In China, you just wear three layers of winter coats indoors in the winter because heating is expensive if you live south of the Huai river, your poorly insulated apartment doesn't have central heating (which doesn't really matter anyway because everyone leaves the windows wide open during the day to let in the "fresh" air that turns your snot black).
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Mar 3, 2016 14:07
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We live in southern Louisiana and right now we are in my favorite time of the year where I don't have to turn the heat or AC on at all and it's glorious. In a month, our summer will kick in and it will be back to running the AC 70% of the day. Thankful for our PV panels every day.
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Mar 3, 2016 14:46
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Sagebrush posted:this thread is now just a bunch of dads arguing about the thermostat
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Mar 3, 2016 15:04
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Nitrox posted:If you want to burn the thread completely, just ask what everyone is paying for car insurance. What if I want to talk about what concrete has the most density for the heaviest/smallest block to lock my motorcycle to?
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Mar 3, 2016 15:18
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stealie72 posted:What if I want to talk about what concrete has the most density for the heaviest/smallest block to lock my motorcycle to? Well for starters I think maybe you want the least dense, in order to maximize awkwardness of lifting at a given weight. I mean which is going to be harder to carry: a 400 pound block of concrete, or a 400 pound bag of feathers?
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Mar 3, 2016 15:19
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Bad Munki posted:Well for starters I think maybe you want the least dense, in order to maximize awkwardness of lifting at a given weight. I mean which is going to be harder to carry: a 400 pound block of concrete, or a 400 pound bag of feathers? Really depends on the bird imho
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Mar 3, 2016 15:26
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Bad Munki posted:Well for starters I think maybe you want the least dense, in order to maximize awkwardness of lifting at a given weight. I mean which is going to be harder to carry: a 400 pound block of concrete, or a 400 pound bag of feathers?  feathers at least seem more comfortable.
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Mar 3, 2016 15:32
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Mix feathers with concrete for best result
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Mar 3, 2016 15:36
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Bad Munki posted:Well for starters I think maybe you want the least dense, in order to maximize awkwardness of lifting at a given weight. I mean which is going to be harder to carry: a 400 pound block of concrete, or a 400 pound bag of feathers? Given that the feathers will fill ~6 cubic yards, I'd say the concrete would be easier. Certainly less awkward. 
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Mar 3, 2016 15:36
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Powerlurker posted:I would describe them as "cooling bills". My power bill is hilariously small in the winter even with electric heat. Mine drops to less than $40 in the winter and gas is so cheap now that the heating bill is mostly the base customer charge. In the hottest months of summer my electric goes to $100-130, but I've definitely heard of $400+ bills from owners of new houses which you would think would have lower bills than a 60 year old poorly ticky tacky house with single pane windows that mostly don't even close all the way. A lot of the problem is that the new suburban tract houses are giant sprawling open layouts, often with two story living rooms having masses of windows and the bedrooms are often located on the second floor overlooking the living room. In my old lovely house we can just hang out in the front living room with a fan on and not worry about how the sun is making the rooms on the southern side of the house 87 degrees inside. But in an open layout the entire house gets to enjoy that extra heat and you have to crank the AC way up to get the bedroom to a temperature where you aren't baking.
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Mar 3, 2016 15:39
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Qwijib0 posted:Given that the feathers will fill ~6 cubic yards, I'd say the concrete would be easier. Certainly less awkward. That's the point! The more awkward it is to handle, the less likely it is to be stolen. XmasGiftFromWife posted:Really depends on the bird imho Penguin I guess
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Mar 3, 2016 15:44
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Bad Munki posted:That's the point! The more awkward it is to handle, the less likely it is to be stolen. Much easier to rip a bag than chisel off bits of concrete though. Maybe a 25/75 blend of concrete as a binder to feathers as filler?
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Mar 3, 2016 15:51
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Qwijib0 posted:Much easier to rip a bag than chisel off bits of concrete though. The bag is made of concrete 400 pounds of it
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Mar 3, 2016 16:00
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stealie72 posted:What if I want to talk about what concrete has the most density for the heaviest/smallest block to lock my motorcycle to? For a serious answer... are you near a concrete/block wall or something equally unmovable? It might be more secure to wall-mount a spot to chain to. A block and chain isn't great if someone could get some huge bolt cutters and use their body weight and the ground to snap them. Now that I'm thinking about it... Get as big of a steel fence post as you can get and cast that into the ground with some concrete. Not a surface pour either, like you normally would put like two 80# bags 2 feet down or more. The weight of the earth will do the rest. Then get someone to weld on your locking point up off the ground on the post. That should be enough of a pain to move and get bolt cutters or a grinder to that most won't bother. Bonus points if you can get the post close to a structure so that getting to there isn't more room than to lock/unlock. If I wasn't renting right now I'd have a field day do this goofy stuff for my motorcycle. Right now it's only the neighbors that know my bike is out back so I'll just get all  if it goes missing.If you're not serious... I still like daydreaming overkill scenarios.
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Mar 3, 2016 17:56
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xwing posted:For a serious answer... are you near a concrete/block wall or something equally unmovable? It might be more secure to wall-mount a spot to chain to. A block and chain isn't great if someone could get some huge bolt cutters and use their body weight and the ground to snap them.  *inception sound thing*
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Mar 3, 2016 18:24
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xwing posted:If you're not serious... I still like daydreaming overkill scenarios. 
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Mar 3, 2016 18:38
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xwing posted:For a serious answer... are you near a concrete/block wall or something equally unmovable? It might be more secure to wall-mount a spot to chain to. A block and chain isn't great if someone could get some huge bolt cutters and use their body weight and the ground to snap them. Is this real life
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Mar 3, 2016 18:50
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Collateral Damage posted:Just leave a claymore mine on the seat when you leave the bike. excuse me i notice you left off the concrete, which is an important part of any motorcycle security system I have enhanced your idea, perhaps its kickstarterworthy. 
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Mar 3, 2016 19:03
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xwing posted:For a serious answer... are you near a concrete/block wall or something equally unmovable? It might be more secure to wall-mount a spot to chain to. A block and chain isn't great if someone could get some huge bolt cutters and use their body weight and the ground to snap them. Cordless cutter or grinder will still take your locking point out in seconds, or if the lock is against something solid (like say a steel post or concrete block) it'll get smashed with a sledge in moments. Keep going.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:08
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Well, see, you wire the chain to 440v so that when the thief tries to cut into it, his angle grinder explodes.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:25
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Cakefool posted:Keep going. Please don't.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:27
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Cakefool posted:Cordless cutter or grinder will still take your locking point out in seconds, or if the lock is against something solid (like say a steel post or concrete block) it'll get smashed with a sledge in moments. Let me see your little grinder address the matter of 400 pounds of feathers covering the whole drat thing!
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Mar 3, 2016 19:28
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Really depends on the bird imho What about procedural birds?
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Mar 3, 2016 19:35
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have you ever tried to cut 400 pounds of feathers with an angle grinder? it doesn't work very well. checkmate, concretailures
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Mar 3, 2016 19:39
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Has anyone considered just storing the bike at the bottom of a swimming pool? Like, just drive it in there at the end of the day, nobody's gonna take it. For extra security, fill the pool with concrete and feathers instead of water?
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Mar 3, 2016 19:42
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If you filled the pool with sand, a demolition saw couldn't cut through it. e. Sand and feathers, of course.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:49
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I like where your head is at.
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Mar 3, 2016 20:07
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Cakefool posted:Cordless cutter or grinder will still take your locking point out in seconds, or if the lock is against something solid (like say a steel post or concrete block) it'll get smashed with a sledge in moments. What lovely locks are you using? I didn't specify what that locking point was either. You have to make it enough of a pain in the rear end that someone won't bother. I'm talking like a hardened puck lock that's shielded with steel plates around it. You'd need to be grinding for a while or get a torch. All of which would be a bitch if you have 16" between the bike and a wall. Same with the chain if it's elevated grinding it or torch is more of a pain... who the hell is going bother with all that? stealie72 posted:Goddammit. Too bad. This amuses me. While we're at it... just hook the lock up to your house power, and a fuckin' feather cannon.
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Mar 3, 2016 20:14
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You want If I set my thermostat to 60°F it just wouldn't run in the winter. It barely runs at 68°. most days. I could probably get by with a much lower setting and a space heater but I worry too much about falling asleep at the wrong time and ending up with a fire. Shifty Pony posted:A lot of the problem is that the new suburban tract houses are giant sprawling open layouts, often with two story living rooms having masses of windows and the bedrooms are often located on the second floor overlooking the living room. In my old lovely house we can just hang out in the front living room with a fan on and not worry about how the sun is making the rooms on the southern side of the house 87 degrees inside. But in an open layout the entire house gets to enjoy that extra heat and you have to crank the AC way up to get the bedroom to a temperature where you aren't baking. New in the loosest sense because this poo poo has been going on for at least 25 years. Have they finally figured out that you need to put separate thermostat controls on all floors so your AC/heat doesn't cut off when the giant, windowed living room is at a perfect temp, leaving the bedrooms upstairs roasting and the basement an icebox? Maybe start putting in ceiling and attic fans again so you can push the hot air up and out?
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Mar 3, 2016 21:44
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there wolf posted:If I set my thermostat to 60°F it just wouldn't run in the winter. It barely runs at 68°. most days. I could probably get by with a much lower setting and a space heater but I worry too much about falling asleep at the wrong time and ending up with a fire. What's so bad about not running your thermostat? Okay, you might want to turn the fan on from time to time just to circulate air, but otherwise you're just wasting energy if you're telling the house you want it to be warmer than you actually need/want.
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Mar 3, 2016 22:02
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there wolf posted:New in the loosest sense because this poo poo has been going on for at least 25 years. Have they finally figured out that you need to put separate thermostat controls on all floors so your AC/heat doesn't cut off when the giant, windowed living room is at a perfect temp, leaving the bedrooms upstairs roasting and the basement an icebox? Maybe start putting in ceiling and attic fans again so you can push the hot air up and out? Whole house "attic" fans are definitely out of style. From what I've seen, by far the most common approach these days is two separate forced air systems, one for each floor. Incidentally, one of the big advantages of superinsulation is that you can get your loads low enough that you can cover it with one mini split head per floor, saving tens of thousands of dollars compared to a pair of traditional central forced air systems.
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Mar 3, 2016 23:14
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What's so bad about not running your thermostat? Okay, you might want to turn the fan on from time to time just to circulate air, but otherwise you're just wasting energy if you're telling the house you want it to be warmer than you actually need/want. What I need/want is actually 85°F, so 70° is really a compromise... But seriously, the room temperature is actually 3-5° cooler than the thermostat reading. So high sixties if I'm being indulgent, and low if I'm being frugal. If I go down to high 50s then that's not that far from the temp outside most days and the furnace never turns on. The house is cold but bearable with socks and a sweater. Not a big deal if it stays warm but if the temp drops suddenly then I have to wait for the low temps to hit the thermostat and the furnace to crank up and start heating the whole house up. I don't know about energy costs, but financially it's cheaper to just keep the house mildly warm than wake up shivering every other week to crank the thermostat up for a few hours. Also I never have to worry about the AC popping on if there's an unusually warm day.
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Mar 4, 2016 00:49
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Zhentar posted:Whole house "attic" fans are definitely out of style. From what I've seen, by far the most common approach these days is two separate forced air systems, one for each floor. Incidentally, one of the big advantages of superinsulation is that you can get your loads low enough that you can cover it with one mini split head per floor, saving tens of thousands of dollars compared to a pair of traditional central forced air systems. Speaking of this, the house I grew up in had a fan in the attic that, when turned on, made a hell of a lot of noise and moved a shitload of air. It was great when the temperature was nice outside -- we'd open the windows and turn it on. My parents called it the "attic fan". Is "whole house fan" the proper name for that kind of thing? My wife and I are thinking of buying a house maybe within the next five years, and that's a feature I'd love / love to add.
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Mar 4, 2016 16:56
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Safety Dance posted:My wife and I are thinking of buying a house maybe within the next five years, and that's a feature I'd love / love to add. If you have allergies, this is an awful idea. You're basically creating a "whole house filter" for tremendous volumes of outside air.
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Mar 4, 2016 18:13
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We don't, but I'll take that into consideration.
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Mar 4, 2016 18:21
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The solution to bike security is much simpler. Take the 400# of feathers, use them to make molds and cast concrete feathers. Then stick those to the bike with polyurethane expanding foam.
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Mar 4, 2016 19:05
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